Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA Adapter with FFT Processor now available to order
The keyboard usb port h/w has been tested, but needs additional firmware to be written before we add the external keyboard feature. We hope to have it live in the next several months. 73, Eric www.elecraft.com _..._ On Jan 11, 2012, at 6:27 PM, "Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF" wrote: > Hi Eric, > Thanks for letting us know. > One question though, is the USB port currently enabled for keyboard use or > do we have to wait for that feature to be enabled in the firmware? > If we have to wait, can you give us some kind of time frame for that feature > to become 'live' > Thanks in advance, > > 73 de > Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF > East Innisfail > QLD, Australia __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA Adapter with FFT Processor now available to order
Thanks Eric. Now to look for an SVGA frame grabber so I can stream the P3 output and perhaps put in a movable window in my large display. 73, tom n4zpt On 1/11/2012 9:17 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: > The P3SVGA wide screen video adapter for the P3 Panadapter with high > performance FFT processor is now available for ordering. See: > http://www.elecraft.com/P3/p3.htm#svga > > The P3SVGA adapter adds wide screen display capability to the P3 (up to > 1920x1080p). It also has a dedicated high speed FFT processor that > performs a 2048 point FFT in parallel with the P3's existing processor, > for a much higher frequency resolution per dot display on the larger > screen. The P3SVGA adapter is a plug-in internal card to the P3 that can > be easily added by the user. > > The P3SVGA also includes an interface for our future USB keyboard option > that will allow direct digital mode operation via the K3 and P3, with > data display in a P3. > > Currently supported native screen resolutions (other resolutions may be > added in the future): > > 1024 x 768 > 1280 x 1024 > 1440 x 900 > 1600 x 900 > 1920 x 1080 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA Adapter with FFT Processor now available to order
Hi Eric, Thanks for letting us know. One question though, is the USB port currently enabled for keyboard use or do we have to wait for that feature to be enabled in the firmware? If we have to wait, can you give us some kind of time frame for that feature to become 'live' Thanks in advance, 73 de Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF East Innisfail QLD, Australia K3 #4257, P3 #1629, KPA-500 #161 - Original Message - From: "Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft" To: "Elecraft Reflector" Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 12:17 PM Subject: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA Adapter with FFT Processor now available to order > The P3SVGA wide screen video adapter for the P3 Panadapter with high > performance FFT processor is now available for ordering. See: > http://www.elecraft.com/P3/p3.htm#svga > > The P3SVGA adapter adds wide screen display capability to the P3 (up to > 1920x1080p). It also has a dedicated high speed FFT processor that > performs a 2048 point FFT in parallel with the P3's existing processor, > for a much higher frequency resolution per dot display on the larger > screen. The P3SVGA adapter is a plug-in internal card to the P3 that can > be easily added by the user. > > The P3SVGA also includes an interface for our future USB keyboard option > that will allow direct digital mode operation via the K3 and P3, with > data display in a P3. > > Currently supported native screen resolutions (other resolutions may be > added in the future): > > 1024 x 768 > 1280 x 1024 > 1440 x 900 > 1600 x 900 > 1920 x 1080 > > Note: Most other resolution flat screen displays also support the next > lower P3 screen resolution. > > Like the P3, the P3SVGA is firmware downloadable and new features will > be available over time. > > The P3SVGA is now available on our order page. Its estimated starting > ship date is Feb. 21st. > > 73, > > Eric > --- > www.elecraft.com > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] P3 SVGA Adapter with FFT Processor now available to order
The P3SVGA wide screen video adapter for the P3 Panadapter with high performance FFT processor is now available for ordering. See: http://www.elecraft.com/P3/p3.htm#svga The P3SVGA adapter adds wide screen display capability to the P3 (up to 1920x1080p). It also has a dedicated high speed FFT processor that performs a 2048 point FFT in parallel with the P3's existing processor, for a much higher frequency resolution per dot display on the larger screen. The P3SVGA adapter is a plug-in internal card to the P3 that can be easily added by the user. The P3SVGA also includes an interface for our future USB keyboard option that will allow direct digital mode operation via the K3 and P3, with data display in a P3. Currently supported native screen resolutions (other resolutions may be added in the future): 1024 x 768 1280 x 1024 1440 x 900 1600 x 900 1920 x 1080 Note: Most other resolution flat screen displays also support the next lower P3 screen resolution. Like the P3, the P3SVGA is firmware downloadable and new features will be available over time. The P3SVGA is now available on our order page. Its estimated starting ship date is Feb. 21st. 73, Eric --- www.elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
At 04:12 PM 1/11/2012, you wrote: >Gents, > >I have a ladder line and balun question that I hope someone can guide me >thru. A 1 wavelength loop represents approximately 100 ohms non reactive impedance. Feeding this antenna on its fundamental frequency is relatively straight forward ... and it can be done with coax ... using some tricks to get it down very close to 50 ohms. However if, as is commonly done the loop is used on harmonics making it multi band the situation is much more complex and the feed is changed from coax to parallel feed line as you have done. The impedance at the feed point increases with harmonics with the addition of an increasing reactive component. It is common in such antenna systems to make the transition from the parallel feed line to coax as it approaches the shack since it is generally easier to physically route it through walls etc ... and it is thought that it radiates less than the parallel line (usually not the case). It is possible to actually measure the complex impedance at the end of the parallel line using an analyzer but inevitably there will be a mismatch to the coax whether using a 4:1 or 1:1 balun. which will cause radiation from the coax line. It is simply a matter of determining if the amount of radiation from the coax section is tolerable or not. It is possible to bring the parallel feed line right into the shack and connect it directly to an impedance coupler and in fact this was the usual method for many years ... and I have done this with no adverse RF effects in the shack. The easiest method of using a large loop on its resonant harmonics is to install the antenna coupler right at the feed point and use coax for the full feed line length. It is possible to make some guesses as to the impedance at the end of the feed line at the different frequencies given the length of the parallel feed line. The experience you describe would indicate the impedance is rather low as the 1:1 balun worked well. The most common strategy for this arrangement is the cut and try method. Stick with what works there are no magic rules of thumb. Jim, VE3CI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
On 1/11/2012 1:34 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > You said the original arrangement worked fine. Why not go back to it? Agreed. Don, you got bad advice from someone who didn't understand the fundamentals of how antennas and feedlines work. Strike the word "balun" from your vocabulary and start using words that describe what the part is really doing. Have you noticed that the manufacturers of these so-called baluns almost never tell you what's inside, or give you any performance specs? Many so-called baluns are really lossy transformers. Some are combinations of common mode chokes, but the common mode chokes aren't very good. Some are phasing lines. Often the companies (or hams) selling this stuff have no real understanding of what they're selling -- they are businessmen, and it's monkey see, monkey do. What you WANT at the feedpoint of BOTH antennas is a very good, low Q COMMON MODE CHOKE with a high choking impedance and rated for whatever power you're running. See the specific winding recommendations in my RFI tutorial. http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] RTTY/PSK interface for the K3
Rick, I don't understand how the addition of an interface can give you additional modes. The modes come from the application software, not from the interface itself. True, the K3 has PSK D and FSK D modes, but those have nothing to do with a soundcard nor with the Line In and Line Out jacks - they will transmit RTTY or PSK31 without the need for any external connections. For soundcard based digital modes, one would use DATA A or AFSK data sub-modes. You make a valid point about the OS sounds - and that can be cured by using a soundcard that is not the windows default (why buy a full interface when a soundcard will do) - or if one wishes to use the default soundcard, set it to "No sounds". Setting the soundcard to "no sounds" is easy if you create a separate user account for ham radio use - set that to no sounds, but when you use the computer for office work or billpaying or games, etc, sign on as another user which has sounds enabled. OTOH, computers are cheap these days, so having a dedicated computer for the hamshack is not out of the question, in fact it is the best solution - use a desktop and put a real serial port card in it and the problems with USB to serial adapters go away, and you can add internal soundcards too. Put the computer under the desk where it is out of the way. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/11/2012 6:40 PM, Rick Bates wrote: > My 'vote' is for both a USB sound card AND the serial interface (for control > or to use the internal digital modes). That way you have more choices, more > new or different modes that the K3 doesn't 'know' yet and the OS sounds are > kept in the shack, not on the air. ;-) > > It's still simple, but the wire count is increasing. > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 per band power levels with KPA500
*Don't you just love the way the K-Line even tells you when you have a momentary lapse in intelligence and/or a lack of hand/brain coordination? :-) Gary * On 12 January 2012 09:53, Phil Hystad wrote: > Ron, > > You're right -- our K3s at least are pretty smart. I should have thought > it would automatically remember the settings once you set them or changed > them based on STBY or OPER mode of the KPA500. > > 73, phil, K7PEH > > > On Jan 11, 2012, at 2:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > > > Phil, when you change bands the power you have set is automatically > stored > > by the K3, so it will be returned to that value when you come back to > that > > band later. > > > > If you are using the optional AUX cable with your K3 so that you see the > > operate/standby status reported on the K3's LCD when you switch the > KPA500 > > on, the K3 will keep track of BOTH the power level you selected when the > > KPA500 is in OPERATE and the "barefoot" power level you selected when the > > KPA500 is in STANDBY. > > > > Sometimes our rigs are "smart" enough it gets scary, Hi! > > > > 73, Ron AC7AC > > > > > > > > > > > > -Original Message- > > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net > > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad > > Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 1:52 PM > > To: Elecraft List > > Subject: [Elecraft] K3 per band power levels with KPA500 > > > > I went to read the documentation and set up the per band power levels for > > the KPA500 in standby (barefoot) and operate (powered) mode and > discovered > > that the directions were not as clear as I prefer for my feeble mind. > > > > So, I read that the CONFIG menu setting of PWRSET is set to PER BAND > instead > > of NORmal but after that I am not sure what I need to do and how > something > > gets "saved". Did I miss something in the documentation or am I looking > too > > hard? > > > > Also if you are running in the per band and then want to change the power > > level for that per band setting do you just use the PWR knob to adjust > the > > power level to your liking and if you do that is it automatically saved? > > > > Thanks for any help you will be. > > > > 73, phil, K7PEH > > > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Gary VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile Elecraft Equipment K3 #679, KPA-500 #018 Living the dream!!! __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 per band power levels with KPA500
Ron, You're right -- our K3s at least are pretty smart. I should have thought it would automatically remember the settings once you set them or changed them based on STBY or OPER mode of the KPA500. 73, phil, K7PEH On Jan 11, 2012, at 2:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > Phil, when you change bands the power you have set is automatically stored > by the K3, so it will be returned to that value when you come back to that > band later. > > If you are using the optional AUX cable with your K3 so that you see the > operate/standby status reported on the K3's LCD when you switch the KPA500 > on, the K3 will keep track of BOTH the power level you selected when the > KPA500 is in OPERATE and the "barefoot" power level you selected when the > KPA500 is in STANDBY. > > Sometimes our rigs are "smart" enough it gets scary, Hi! > > 73, Ron AC7AC > > > > > > -Original Message- > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad > Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 1:52 PM > To: Elecraft List > Subject: [Elecraft] K3 per band power levels with KPA500 > > I went to read the documentation and set up the per band power levels for > the KPA500 in standby (barefoot) and operate (powered) mode and discovered > that the directions were not as clear as I prefer for my feeble mind. > > So, I read that the CONFIG menu setting of PWRSET is set to PER BAND instead > of NORmal but after that I am not sure what I need to do and how something > gets "saved". Did I miss something in the documentation or am I looking too > hard? > > Also if you are running in the per band and then want to change the power > level for that per band setting do you just use the PWR knob to adjust the > power level to your liking and if you do that is it automatically saved? > > Thanks for any help you will be. > > 73, phil, K7PEH > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
Don:The gentlemen with the 1 wave loop on 160 could extend the 450 ohm feeder out where it presents a current loop That would place him at a current loop on 80, as well or, just continue with the 450 ohm line (a multiple of half waves) into the shack and couple up there.He could place the balun at at any current loop, or better yet, a link coupled balanced matching network in the shack.Bst RgdsBill-w7kxb > Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 17:02:51 -0500 > From: w3...@embarqmail.com > To: gold...@charter.net > CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question > > Don, > > According to L B Cebik's modeling, a 2 wavelength horizontal loop will > have a feedpoint impedance of 180 - j125 ohms, and a 4 wavelength loop > (the same loop used on 80 meters will have a feedpoint impedance of 235 > - j135. > Both are good candidates for the use of a 4:1 balun - but that only > applies if you mount the balun right at the antenna feedpoint. The fact > that you have 60 feet of 450 ohm feedline changes the situation > drastically - that is about 1/8 wavelength on 160 and close to 1/4 > wavelength on 80 - so the feedoint impedance at the end of that 60 feet > of feedline is quite a bit lower - that is most likely why your 1:1 > balun worked so well. You can work with L B Cebik's antenna feedpoint > impedances and the TLW application available from the ARRL to find the > feedpoint impedance at the end of the 60 foot feedline, but I think you > will find it closer to 50 ohms than to 200 ohms. > > The other question is what type of balun is your 4:1 balun - if it is a > voltage type, it has no chance of stopping common mode current. > > My guess for why your current choke did not work is either that you did > not place it at the right point on the coax, or it was at a point where > the RF voltage was high, and in light of a high RF voltage (think > impedance equal to 2000 to 4000 ohms, a choke of 5000 ohms impedance > does not have much of a chance to stop any current. > > So bottom line - go back to what you had before, or put the 4:1 balun at > the antenna feedpoint where it should work if your antenna is anything > like L B Cebik's simulations. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] RTTY/PSK interface for the K3
My 'vote' is for both a USB sound card AND the serial interface (for control or to use the internal digital modes). That way you have more choices, more new or different modes that the K3 doesn't 'know' yet and the OS sounds are kept in the shack, not on the air. ;-) It's still simple, but the wire count is increasing. Rick NHC -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm My vote is for the KISS principle - no external interface, the K3 already has it built in. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
OK, I will bite. Don if I understand you correctly, you have a square loop at 40 feet with equal side length. If I may, I would be pleased to model it for you as that is what I did in my earlier productive life, hi. A few more particulars. Length of each side and shape if not square. Wire size and type, Al, Cu etc. The impedance of the ladder line and type, window or open line and actual length Last are there any obstructions near by. Some of this info has been said, but I would like a clean slat to start with. Glad to help, Mel, K6KBE --- On Wed, 1/11/12, WILLIS COOKE wrote: From: WILLIS COOKE Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question To: "gold...@charter.net" , "Elecraft Reflector" Date: Wednesday, January 11, 2012, 3:02 PM Don, no one has that knowledge to share because every piece of any material in the area of the antenna and feed lines affects the impedance and efficiency of the unit. No calculation simple enough to be handled by our computers and programs and within our ability to simulate is accurate enough to be sure. You can either blindly experiment as you have done and stop when you get acceptable results or you can buy the best antenna analyzer that you can afford and measure the result from your try. This method will probably not be accurate enough to get it right the first time, but will help you zero in on a good result. The ambiguous definition of "good result" is open to individual preference. Unfortunately, most who experiment with wire loop antennas do so in search of a low cost, all band, universally low SWR antenna which will perform with the high tower mounted, directive, resonant arrays. This is not possible! Even if you strike low cost from the list! The reason that all the big gun contest stations have a money is no object approach is that it is the only way to produce world class results. But wire antennas and open wire feeders are interesting and fun to experiment with. Hams have been looking for this cook book answer starting with Marconi. Some have had many an interesting QSO on this type of antenna, but the easy cook-book solution that can be explained in 100,000 words or less has not yet been discovered. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart From: "gold...@charter.net" To: WILLIS COOKE Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 4:05 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question HI Will, That is reasonable advice, to just go back and that is definatly in the plans. However, before I climb up on ladders and so on I want to learn more in case I have a feed line length issue. I can add more ladder line but I want a way to see if there is the possibility for success not just throw a different length at it. I also am wondering if the 4:1 balun causes excessive imbalance so again hoping someone with more knowledge can help me out. All I know is that this is the friendlest and most helpful list that I am a member of because of the quality of Hams that use elecraft equipment so I am hoping that there is some knowledge to share. Thanks Don ~73 Don KD8NNU On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 4:46 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote: Don, when it comes to ladder lines and baluns the only real expert was Jerry Sevick and he has gone to a better place where they only use resonant beam antennas. Take anything anyone is living says about open wire feeders and baluns with a grain of salt. Put your antenna back like it was when it worked. Ignore further advice from the living. Since I am still living, more or less, feel free to ignore this advice as well! Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart ___ From: "gold...@charter.net" To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 3:12 PM Subject: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question Gents, I have a ladder line and balun question that I hope someone can guide me thru. I had a good working antenna system with two antennas. First being an Alpha Delta Dipole and the second a 2WL 160m loop antenna at 40 ft in the air strung in trees. So the wire does touch the trees. Dipole is fed with coax and choked at the feed point and the loop was fed with 60 ft of ladder line to a 1:1 current balun then 25ft coax to the shack tuner. Then the amp and radio. This combination was working real well no RF problems in the shack. I was advised that I would obtain better results for better SWR at resonance and easier matching if I removed the 1:1 balun and went to a 4:1 balun. I made this change with everything else being the same. I now had RF in the shack again. I then added an isolation balun to the system by adding 6ft coax from the output of the 4:1 to a balun designs 116du which is supposed to have 4500 ohms of choking impedance on 160m and over 5000 ohms choking impedance on 80 and 40 meters. This d
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
Now that you know change caused RF in the shack, why not just put it back like it was? 73, Tom Amateur Radio Operator N5GE ARRL Lifetime Member QCWA Lifetime Member "Only a white man would believe he could cut the top off of a blanket, sew it to the bottom and have a longer blanket." -- Old Indian comment about Daylight Saving Time On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 16:12:20 -0500 (EST), gold...@charter.net wrote: >Gents, > >I have a ladder line and balun question that I hope someone can guide me >thru. > >I had a good working antenna system with two antennas. First being an >Alpha Delta Dipole and the second a 2WL 160m loop antenna at 40 ft in >the air strung in trees. So the wire does touch the trees. > >Dipole is fed with coax and choked at the feed point and the loop was >fed with 60 ft of ladder line to a 1:1 current balun then 25ft coax to >the shack tuner. Then the amp and radio. This combination was working >real well no RF problems in the shack. [snip] __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] RTTY/PSK interface for the K3
Adriano, The K3 has full digital interface isolation built in. Using nothing more than 2 cables to the computer soundcard you can operate using VOX. Adding a serial cable between the computer and the K3 can add other options. The only advantage for using an external digital interface is that many provide an added soundcard. That is an advantage for those who use a laptop with only USB connections and an inadequate soundcard. OTOH, an external USB soundcard may be a better solution than the full "digital interface". My vote is for the KISS principle - no external interface, the K3 already has it built in. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/11/2012 3:03 PM, Adriano Perazio wrote: > New on digi modes, i´m wondering what´s the benefits of adding an interface > to the K3? > I´ve been working with the K3 “internal” interface and seems to work very > well. I know there´s an offset when you work AFSK (this case) instead FSK and > with a FSK interface it would zero beat. > Am i right? Any suggestions of interface? > Main application is contesting. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] RTTY/PSK interface for the K3
Adriano as you have discovered, the K3 works perfectly well without an additional interface on data modes. Adding an additional interface is of no value. While I don't work contests, I do use fldigi with my K3 and the logging program enters the centre frequency (as opposed to the dial frequency) for Olivia, etc. http://www.w1hkj.com/ You need the fldigi program and the K3 specific "rig" file (K3.xml). 73 Dave >New on digi modes, i´m wondering what´s the benefits of adding an interface to >the K3? >I´ve been working with the K3 “internal” interface and seems to work very >well. I know there´s an offset when you work AFSK (this >case) >instead FSK >and with a FSK interface it would zero beat. >Am i right? Any suggestions of interface? >Main application is contesting. > >Tnx in advance >PY2ADR / ZY2C __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
Don, no one has that knowledge to share because every piece of any material in the area of the antenna and feed lines affects the impedance and efficiency of the unit. No calculation simple enough to be handled by our computers and programs and within our ability to simulate is accurate enough to be sure. You can either blindly experiment as you have done and stop when you get acceptable results or you can buy the best antenna analyzer that you can afford and measure the result from your try. This method will probably not be accurate enough to get it right the first time, but will help you zero in on a good result. The ambiguous definition of "good result" is open to individual preference. Unfortunately, most who experiment with wire loop antennas do so in search of a low cost, all band, universally low SWR antenna which will perform with the high tower mounted, directive, resonant arrays. This is not possible! Even if you strike low cost from the list! The reason that all the big gun contest stations have a money is no object approach is that it is the only way to produce world class results. But wire antennas and open wire feeders are interesting and fun to experiment with. Hams have been looking for this cook book answer starting with Marconi. Some have had many an interesting QSO on this type of antenna, but the easy cook-book solution that can be explained in 100,000 words or less has not yet been discovered. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart From: "gold...@charter.net" To: WILLIS COOKE Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 4:05 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question HI Will, That is reasonable advice, to just go back and that is definatly in the plans. However, before I climb up on ladders and so on I want to learn more in case I have a feed line length issue. I can add more ladder line but I want a way to see if there is the possibility for success not just throw a different length at it. I also am wondering if the 4:1 balun causes excessive imbalance so again hoping someone with more knowledge can help me out. All I know is that this is the friendlest and most helpful list that I am a member of because of the quality of Hams that use elecraft equipment so I am hoping that there is some knowledge to share. Thanks Don ~73 Don KD8NNU On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 4:46 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote: Don, when it comes to ladder lines and baluns the only real expert was Jerry Sevick and he has gone to a better place where they only use resonant beam antennas. Take anything anyone is living says about open wire feeders and baluns with a grain of salt. Put your antenna back like it was when it worked. Ignore further advice from the living. Since I am still living, more or less, feel free to ignore this advice as well! Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart ___ From: "gold...@charter.net" To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 3:12 PM Subject: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question Gents, I have a ladder line and balun question that I hope someone can guide me thru. I had a good working antenna system with two antennas. First being an Alpha Delta Dipole and the second a 2WL 160m loop antenna at 40 ft in the air strung in trees. So the wire does touch the trees. Dipole is fed with coax and choked at the feed point and the loop was fed with 60 ft of ladder line to a 1:1 current balun then 25ft coax to the shack tuner. Then the amp and radio. This combination was working real well no RF problems in the shack. I was advised that I would obtain better results for better SWR at resonance and easier matching if I removed the 1:1 balun and went to a 4:1 balun. I made this change with everything else being the same. I now had RF in the shack again. I then added an isolation balun to the system by adding 6ft coax from the output of the 4:1 to a balun designs 116du which is supposed to have 4500 ohms of choking impedance on 160m and over 5000 ohms choking impedance on 80 and 40 meters. This did not eliminate the RF and I am still having problems. So here is the question, is it possible that with the combination of length of the ladder line at 60ft plus the 6 ft plus 25 ft of coax I am at a feed line length that will be a problem no matter what I do. I keep looking at the internet to try and figure this out but I am confused as some information I find says it only applies to 1:1 baluns or other factors. So anyone who can help me understand this feed line question I will be greatly appreciative. Thanks Don ~73 Don KD8NNU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto: Elecra
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
Don, If you don't have TLW, you might have to invest in the ARRL Antenna Book - it is on the CD that comes with that book. It is "Transmission Line for Windows", and you can plug in the antenna feedpoint impedance, the type and length of feedline and the program tells you the impedance at the other end. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/11/2012 5:11 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote: > HI Don, > > I wish to look into the TLW application you mention. However, I am not > what it is exactly. Would you please be so kind as to point me in the > proper direction. > > I most likely will be going back to the 1:1 balun but the promise of swr > of 1.3 on 160m was nice, which I have on the 4:1. Also it is a current > balun. > > Thanks > > ~73 > Don > KD8NNU > > > On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 5:02 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > >> Don, >> >> According to L B Cebik's modeling, a 2 wavelength horizontal loop will >> have a feedpoint impedance of 180 - j125 ohms, and a 4 wavelength loop >> (the same loop used on 80 meters will have a feedpoint impedance of >> 235 - j135. >> Both are good candidates for the use of a 4:1 balun - but that only >> applies if you mount the balun right at the antenna feedpoint. The >> fact that you have 60 feet of 450 ohm feedline changes the situation >> drastically - that is about 1/8 wavelength on 160 and close to 1/4 >> wavelength on 80 - so the feedoint impedance at the end of that 60 >> feet of feedline is quite a bit lower - that is most likely why your >> 1:1 balun worked so well. You can work with L B Cebik's antenna >> feedpoint impedances and the TLW application available from the ARRL >> to find the feedpoint impedance at the end of the 60 foot feedline, >> but I think you will find it closer to 50 ohms than to 200 ohms. >> >> The other question is what type of balun is your 4:1 balun - if it is >> a voltage type, it has no chance of stopping common mode current. >> >> My guess for why your current choke did not work is either that you >> did not place it at the right point on the coax, or it was at a point >> where the RF voltage was high, and in light of a high RF voltage >> (think impedance equal to 2000 to 4000 ohms, a choke of 5000 ohms >> impedance does not have much of a chance to stop any current. >> >> So bottom line - go back to what you had before, or put the 4:1 balun >> at the antenna feedpoint where it should work if your antenna is >> anything like L B Cebik's simulations. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> On 1/11/2012 4:12 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote: >>> Gents, >>> >>> I have a ladder line and balun question that I hope someone can guide >>> me >>> thru. >>> >>> I had a good working antenna system with two antennas. First being >>> an >>> Alpha Delta Dipole and the second a 2WL 160m loop antenna at 40 ft in >>> the air strung in trees. So the wire does touch the trees. >>> >>> Dipole is fed with coax and choked at the feed point and the loop was >>> fed with 60 ft of ladder line to a 1:1 current balun then 25ft coax >>> to >>> the shack tuner. Then the amp and radio. This combination was >>> working >>> real well no RF problems in the shack. >>> >>> I was advised that I would obtain better results for better SWR at >>> resonance and easier matching if I removed the 1:1 balun and went to >>> a >>> 4:1 balun. I made this change with everything else being the same. >>> I >>> now had RF in the shack again. >>> >>> I then added an isolation balun to the system by adding 6ft coax from >>> the output of the 4:1 to a balun designs 116du which is supposed to >>> have >>> 4500 ohms of choking impedance on 160m and over 5000 ohms choking >>> impedance on 80 and 40 meters. This did not eliminate the RF and I >>> am >>> still having problems. >>> >>> So here is the question, is it possible that with the combination of >>> length of the ladder line at 60ft plus the 6 ft plus 25 ft of coax I >>> am >>> at a feed line length that will be a problem no matter what I do. >>> I >>> keep looking at the internet to try and figure this out but I am >>> confused as some information I find says it only applies to 1:1 >>> baluns >>> or other factors. >>> >>> So anyone who can help me understand this feed line question I will >>> be >>> greatly appreciative. >>> >>> > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
HI Don, I wish to look into the TLW application you mention. However, I am not what it is exactly. Would you please be so kind as to point me in the proper direction. I most likely will be going back to the 1:1 balun but the promise of swr of 1.3 on 160m was nice, which I have on the 4:1. Also it is a current balun. Thanks ~73 Don KD8NNU On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 5:02 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Don, > > According to L B Cebik's modeling, a 2 wavelength horizontal loop will > have a feedpoint impedance of 180 - j125 ohms, and a 4 wavelength loop > (the same loop used on 80 meters will have a feedpoint impedance of > 235 - j135. > Both are good candidates for the use of a 4:1 balun - but that only > applies if you mount the balun right at the antenna feedpoint. The > fact that you have 60 feet of 450 ohm feedline changes the situation > drastically - that is about 1/8 wavelength on 160 and close to 1/4 > wavelength on 80 - so the feedoint impedance at the end of that 60 > feet of feedline is quite a bit lower - that is most likely why your > 1:1 balun worked so well. You can work with L B Cebik's antenna > feedpoint impedances and the TLW application available from the ARRL > to find the feedpoint impedance at the end of the 60 foot feedline, > but I think you will find it closer to 50 ohms than to 200 ohms. > > The other question is what type of balun is your 4:1 balun - if it is > a voltage type, it has no chance of stopping common mode current. > > My guess for why your current choke did not work is either that you > did not place it at the right point on the coax, or it was at a point > where the RF voltage was high, and in light of a high RF voltage > (think impedance equal to 2000 to 4000 ohms, a choke of 5000 ohms > impedance does not have much of a chance to stop any current. > > So bottom line - go back to what you had before, or put the 4:1 balun > at the antenna feedpoint where it should work if your antenna is > anything like L B Cebik's simulations. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 1/11/2012 4:12 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote: >> Gents, >> >> I have a ladder line and balun question that I hope someone can guide >> me >> thru. >> >> I had a good working antenna system with two antennas. First being >> an >> Alpha Delta Dipole and the second a 2WL 160m loop antenna at 40 ft in >> the air strung in trees. So the wire does touch the trees. >> >> Dipole is fed with coax and choked at the feed point and the loop was >> fed with 60 ft of ladder line to a 1:1 current balun then 25ft coax >> to >> the shack tuner. Then the amp and radio. This combination was >> working >> real well no RF problems in the shack. >> >> I was advised that I would obtain better results for better SWR at >> resonance and easier matching if I removed the 1:1 balun and went to >> a >> 4:1 balun. I made this change with everything else being the same. >> I >> now had RF in the shack again. >> >> I then added an isolation balun to the system by adding 6ft coax from >> the output of the 4:1 to a balun designs 116du which is supposed to >> have >> 4500 ohms of choking impedance on 160m and over 5000 ohms choking >> impedance on 80 and 40 meters. This did not eliminate the RF and I >> am >> still having problems. >> >> So here is the question, is it possible that with the combination of >> length of the ladder line at 60ft plus the 6 ft plus 25 ft of coax I >> am >> at a feed line length that will be a problem no matter what I do. >> I >> keep looking at the internet to try and figure this out but I am >> confused as some information I find says it only applies to 1:1 >> baluns >> or other factors. >> >> So anyone who can help me understand this feed line question I will >> be >> greatly appreciative. >> >> __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 per band power levels with KPA500
Phil, when you change bands the power you have set is automatically stored by the K3, so it will be returned to that value when you come back to that band later. If you are using the optional AUX cable with your K3 so that you see the operate/standby status reported on the K3's LCD when you switch the KPA500 on, the K3 will keep track of BOTH the power level you selected when the KPA500 is in OPERATE and the "barefoot" power level you selected when the KPA500 is in STANDBY. Sometimes our rigs are "smart" enough it gets scary, Hi! 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 1:52 PM To: Elecraft List Subject: [Elecraft] K3 per band power levels with KPA500 I went to read the documentation and set up the per band power levels for the KPA500 in standby (barefoot) and operate (powered) mode and discovered that the directions were not as clear as I prefer for my feeble mind. So, I read that the CONFIG menu setting of PWRSET is set to PER BAND instead of NORmal but after that I am not sure what I need to do and how something gets "saved". Did I miss something in the documentation or am I looking too hard? Also if you are running in the per band and then want to change the power level for that per band setting do you just use the PWR knob to adjust the power level to your liking and if you do that is it automatically saved? Thanks for any help you will be. 73, phil, K7PEH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
Don, According to L B Cebik's modeling, a 2 wavelength horizontal loop will have a feedpoint impedance of 180 - j125 ohms, and a 4 wavelength loop (the same loop used on 80 meters will have a feedpoint impedance of 235 - j135. Both are good candidates for the use of a 4:1 balun - but that only applies if you mount the balun right at the antenna feedpoint. The fact that you have 60 feet of 450 ohm feedline changes the situation drastically - that is about 1/8 wavelength on 160 and close to 1/4 wavelength on 80 - so the feedoint impedance at the end of that 60 feet of feedline is quite a bit lower - that is most likely why your 1:1 balun worked so well. You can work with L B Cebik's antenna feedpoint impedances and the TLW application available from the ARRL to find the feedpoint impedance at the end of the 60 foot feedline, but I think you will find it closer to 50 ohms than to 200 ohms. The other question is what type of balun is your 4:1 balun - if it is a voltage type, it has no chance of stopping common mode current. My guess for why your current choke did not work is either that you did not place it at the right point on the coax, or it was at a point where the RF voltage was high, and in light of a high RF voltage (think impedance equal to 2000 to 4000 ohms, a choke of 5000 ohms impedance does not have much of a chance to stop any current. So bottom line - go back to what you had before, or put the 4:1 balun at the antenna feedpoint where it should work if your antenna is anything like L B Cebik's simulations. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/11/2012 4:12 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote: > Gents, > > I have a ladder line and balun question that I hope someone can guide me > thru. > > I had a good working antenna system with two antennas. First being an > Alpha Delta Dipole and the second a 2WL 160m loop antenna at 40 ft in > the air strung in trees. So the wire does touch the trees. > > Dipole is fed with coax and choked at the feed point and the loop was > fed with 60 ft of ladder line to a 1:1 current balun then 25ft coax to > the shack tuner. Then the amp and radio. This combination was working > real well no RF problems in the shack. > > I was advised that I would obtain better results for better SWR at > resonance and easier matching if I removed the 1:1 balun and went to a > 4:1 balun. I made this change with everything else being the same. I > now had RF in the shack again. > > I then added an isolation balun to the system by adding 6ft coax from > the output of the 4:1 to a balun designs 116du which is supposed to have > 4500 ohms of choking impedance on 160m and over 5000 ohms choking > impedance on 80 and 40 meters. This did not eliminate the RF and I am > still having problems. > > So here is the question, is it possible that with the combination of > length of the ladder line at 60ft plus the 6 ft plus 25 ft of coax I am > at a feed line length that will be a problem no matter what I do.I > keep looking at the internet to try and figure this out but I am > confused as some information I find says it only applies to 1:1 baluns > or other factors. > > So anyone who can help me understand this feed line question I will be > greatly appreciative. > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 per band power levels with KPA500
I went to read the documentation and set up the per band power levels for the KPA500 in standby (barefoot) and operate (powered) mode and discovered that the directions were not as clear as I prefer for my feeble mind. So, I read that the CONFIG menu setting of PWRSET is set to PER BAND instead of NORmal but after that I am not sure what I need to do and how something gets "saved". Did I miss something in the documentation or am I looking too hard? Also if you are running in the per band and then want to change the power level for that per band setting do you just use the PWR knob to adjust the power level to your liking and if you do that is it automatically saved? Thanks for any help you will be. 73, phil, K7PEH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
Don, when it comes to ladder lines and baluns the only real expert was Jerry Sevick and he has gone to a better place where they only use resonant beam antennas. Take anything anyone is living says about open wire feeders and baluns with a grain of salt. Put your antenna back like it was when it worked. Ignore further advice from the living. Since I am still living, more or less, feel free to ignore this advice as well! Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart From: "gold...@charter.net" To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 3:12 PM Subject: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question Gents, I have a ladder line and balun question that I hope someone can guide me thru. I had a good working antenna system with two antennas. First being an Alpha Delta Dipole and the second a 2WL 160m loop antenna at 40 ft in the air strung in trees. So the wire does touch the trees. Dipole is fed with coax and choked at the feed point and the loop was fed with 60 ft of ladder line to a 1:1 current balun then 25ft coax to the shack tuner. Then the amp and radio. This combination was working real well no RF problems in the shack. I was advised that I would obtain better results for better SWR at resonance and easier matching if I removed the 1:1 balun and went to a 4:1 balun. I made this change with everything else being the same. I now had RF in the shack again. I then added an isolation balun to the system by adding 6ft coax from the output of the 4:1 to a balun designs 116du which is supposed to have 4500 ohms of choking impedance on 160m and over 5000 ohms choking impedance on 80 and 40 meters. This did not eliminate the RF and I am still having problems. So here is the question, is it possible that with the combination of length of the ladder line at 60ft plus the 6 ft plus 25 ft of coax I am at a feed line length that will be a problem no matter what I do. I keep looking at the internet to try and figure this out but I am confused as some information I find says it only applies to 1:1 baluns or other factors. So anyone who can help me understand this feed line question I will be greatly appreciative. Thanks Don ~73 Don KD8NNU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K1 **SOLD***
The K1 I had for sale has been sold, thanks to all who inquired.. 73 Tim NZ8J __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
Don: You have standing waves on the coax. That means that there will be varying levels of RF voltage on the coax that change with frequency and that are not prevented by a balun at the transition from coax to open wire line. The 4:1 balun has altered the load impedance and changed the voltage a the shack. You said the original arrangement worked fine. Why not go back to it? Personally, I'd take all the baluns out and see if I had any "RF in the Shack" issues. Any "passive" device like a balun eats RF. Sometimes it's not enough to care about - sometimes it's a LOT. So I try to keep my installations a simple as possible. Also, every foot of coax (or any other transmission line) eats RF. How much depends upon the impedance of the line, whether it's connected to a load with the same impedance, and the frequency of operation. Coax is generally the worst type of line to use in an unmatched system with standing waves due to its rather low impedance, so keep it as short as possible. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Gents, I have a ladder line and balun question that I hope someone can guide me thru. I had a good working antenna system with two antennas. First being an Alpha Delta Dipole and the second a 2WL 160m loop antenna at 40 ft in the air strung in trees. So the wire does touch the trees. Dipole is fed with coax and choked at the feed point and the loop was fed with 60 ft of ladder line to a 1:1 current balun then 25ft coax to the shack tuner. Then the amp and radio. This combination was working real well no RF problems in the shack. I was advised that I would obtain better results for better SWR at resonance and easier matching if I removed the 1:1 balun and went to a 4:1 balun. I made this change with everything else being the same. I now had RF in the shack again. I then added an isolation balun to the system by adding 6ft coax from the output of the 4:1 to a balun designs 116du which is supposed to have 4500 ohms of choking impedance on 160m and over 5000 ohms choking impedance on 80 and 40 meters. This did not eliminate the RF and I am still having problems. So here is the question, is it possible that with the combination of length of the ladder line at 60ft plus the 6 ft plus 25 ft of coax I am at a feed line length that will be a problem no matter what I do.I keep looking at the internet to try and figure this out but I am confused as some information I find says it only applies to 1:1 baluns or other factors. So anyone who can help me understand this feed line question I will be greatly appreciative. Thanks Don ~73 Don KD8NNU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] ladderline and balun question
Gents, I have a ladder line and balun question that I hope someone can guide me thru. I had a good working antenna system with two antennas. First being an Alpha Delta Dipole and the second a 2WL 160m loop antenna at 40 ft in the air strung in trees. So the wire does touch the trees. Dipole is fed with coax and choked at the feed point and the loop was fed with 60 ft of ladder line to a 1:1 current balun then 25ft coax to the shack tuner. Then the amp and radio. This combination was working real well no RF problems in the shack. I was advised that I would obtain better results for better SWR at resonance and easier matching if I removed the 1:1 balun and went to a 4:1 balun. I made this change with everything else being the same. I now had RF in the shack again. I then added an isolation balun to the system by adding 6ft coax from the output of the 4:1 to a balun designs 116du which is supposed to have 4500 ohms of choking impedance on 160m and over 5000 ohms choking impedance on 80 and 40 meters. This did not eliminate the RF and I am still having problems. So here is the question, is it possible that with the combination of length of the ladder line at 60ft plus the 6 ft plus 25 ft of coax I am at a feed line length that will be a problem no matter what I do.I keep looking at the internet to try and figure this out but I am confused as some information I find says it only applies to 1:1 baluns or other factors. So anyone who can help me understand this feed line question I will be greatly appreciative. Thanks Don ~73 Don KD8NNU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3Util and P3Util Error: Help System encountered a problem. [Linux Ubuntu 10.04]
David, Bummer.That wasn't the answer I was hoping for. I agree conversion from the proprietary development environment would be, at the very least, difficult and, worse yet, probably not something I am capable of doing. Thanks for your reply and explanation. For benefit of others who may pass this way, I did discover that I can create something similar to a help file by opening my Chrome browser on the file K3Util.htm located in the folder Help-K3. So, for example, in my browser address space (where the http:// address usually goes) I inserted "file:///home/lj/Desktop/K3/Help-K3/K3Util.htm" This mostly works but is missing a diagram or two which you have to fish out yourself. This would probably work on the P3Util package also. Not a well integrated solution but a work around while we wait for Real Studio to support 64bits. Larry W0AY On 01/11/2012 10:46 AM, David Fleming wrote: > The Linux versions of the Utilities share the same source code with the Mac > versions. They are developed and maintained on the Mac using Real Studio. > Real Studio provides cross-compilation for Mac and Linux (and Windows). Real > Studio does not yet support 64-bit Linux. So until it does, I have no way of > providing 64-bit. If someone would like to take on the task of porting all of > the Utilities to native Linux, I'm sure it could be arranged. But it would be > a *massive* project. The Elecraft Utilities are not trivial apps. They have > been in development for years. I'm not sure that investing the time and > effort necessary would be worth it - just to get a 64-bit binary. The 32-bit > versions works just fine on 64-bit as long as the 32-bit compatibility > libraries are installed. > > David, W4SMT > > --- On Wed, 1/11/12, Larry J on his Dell LT wrote: > >> I agree 100 percent with >> Pierfrancesco!!! (See excerpt below) If I >> had a native 64 bit binary for the Elecraft P3/ K3 >> Utility, I wouldn't have to come begging here. >> After all, I just spent more than $4000 on this >> hardware. Better yet, Elecraft: >> Open the source your dam Utilities and I'll >> compile my own. >> >> Elecraft: I'm willing to go NDA so that >> you could provide source for the P3/K3 utilities to me, I'll >> compile, maintain, and package 64 bit >> versions and put it in a PPA for all to access >> freely. No charge to you. Let me know. >> >> Larry W0AY >> >> On 01/10/2012 11:37 PM, Pierfrancesco Caci wrote: >>> Now, it's 2012, can we*please* have a native >> 64 bit version of the >>> utility? And also a standalone html or pdf copy of the >> help file, >>> pointing the browser to the Help directory gives a lot >> of broken links. >>> Pf >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA500 #639 Now On The Air
Now there is another set of radio waves on their way to all parts of the Earth and the Universe tagged with that exceptional Elecraft Power Vector produced by yet another KPA500, serial number 639. No problems, issues, or difficulties in putting this kit together. And, my level of awe just increased another notch at the engineering and design that went into this kit -- I don't merely mean the electronics but also the mechanical layout, the form and fit of all the components, and the crystal clear instructions that show the way. I just ran it through all of its tests using a dummy load and then hooked it up for a very quick CW QSO, 599 of course. As others have pointed out, using the KPA500 as a single button band switch for the K3 is kind of a nice little extra feature. 73, phil, K7PEH K3, Serial #3799 KPA500, Serial #639 KX1, Serial # ?? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Customer Service
Last Saturday, after assembling my new KPA500, I plugged it in and immediately blew a fuse. I asked for suggestions on this reflector and, in less than 15 minutes, Ron sent me an email outlining what I should check. Sure enough, I had reversed the gray and brown wires (poor eyes) on the PS board. Corrected them and life is good. How many manufacturers can give a response like that? Thanks, Ron, for your help and making "fun" ham radio products. Have built the K3, P3, KPA500, and anxiously waiting for the KAT500. 73, Mike, W4UM Florida Contest Group Mid Florida DX Association South Florida DX Association __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] RTTY/PSK interface for the K3
New on digi modes, i´m wondering what´s the benefits of adding an interface to the K3? I´ve been working with the K3 “internal” interface and seems to work very well. I know there´s an offset when you work AFSK (this case) instead FSK and with a FSK interface it would zero beat. Am i right? Any suggestions of interface? Main application is contesting. Tnx in advance PY2ADR / ZY2C K3 # 4795 + P3 & getting another K3 next month. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] JPS NIR-12 with K3 IN RTTY Contest
Thanks for answering a question I had about my NIR-12 which worked really nicely with my Yaesu FT950. After using the K3 the past two months and it's awesome DSP and NB, I didn't think it would really do much to improve it. I guess i will put it in my truck now with my 857D. Thanks, Keith AG6AZ Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos On Jan 11, 2012, at 11:32 AM, "Guy Olinger K2AV" wrote: > I own a JPS NIR 12. As well as that operated when I first got it, I found > that it was inferior to the AF DSP in the K2. The K3, with the entire IF > available to drive its functions, at the IF level, is superior to both the > K2 and particularly superior to my NIR 12. The only thing that I can > imagine the JPS unit doing is adding to the inevitable artifacts of DSP > processing. > > If you actually do find that the JPS adds something positive to the results > please let me know, I'd like to try and duplicate it. I've not found > anything useful for it to do in a long time. > > 73, Guy. > > On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 12:44 PM, Jim Harris wrote: > >> Hi to everyone, >> Some may recall that a couple of weeks ago I asked about hooking up a JPS >> NIR-12 DSP between my K3 and computer for RTTY contesting. The idea was to >> try to clean up the signal a bit more before the sound card prcesses it. I >> under took this after learning that at least one prominent RTTY contester >> does this with excellent results. But, for me, in a few words it didn't >> work out very well even though I tested it prior to the RTTY Roundup >> contest. There may have been some extenuating circumstances as after again >> hooking the audio straight from the K3 to the computer there still seemed >> to be some muddiness without totally clean decoding. I will have to do >> some more troubleshooting on that. Once I get that sorted out I am going to >> try the DSP again. If I make progress I will report back for those >> interested. >> I might add that the K3 with my K2 in a SO2R combination was not a total >> disaster as I had 917 contacts in about 18 hours of operating. I used a >> Heathkit active filter between the K2 and the computer and found it greatly >> helped clean up the audio making decode in MMTTY the best I've seen in some >> years of RTTY contesting. I used it in combination with some DSP >> processing and XFIL RF3 in the K2. It would have been nice if the MMTTY >> decoding of the K3 audio had been as good. >> Sorry for the bandwidth, but one thing I might add. I use ear buds with a >> small commercially available combiner box to listen to the audio from each >> radio. Shortly before the contest I realized I had a giant ground loop >> someplace. After trouble shooting I found it was caused by the box >> grounding the two radio's together. A hastily put together isolation >> transformer solved that. >> Constructive thought and comments always appreciated. >> >> Take pride in the USA. 73 >> >> >> >> Jim, W0EM >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] JPS NIR-12 with K3 IN RTTY Contest
I own a JPS NIR 12. As well as that operated when I first got it, I found that it was inferior to the AF DSP in the K2. The K3, with the entire IF available to drive its functions, at the IF level, is superior to both the K2 and particularly superior to my NIR 12. The only thing that I can imagine the JPS unit doing is adding to the inevitable artifacts of DSP processing. If you actually do find that the JPS adds something positive to the results please let me know, I'd like to try and duplicate it. I've not found anything useful for it to do in a long time. 73, Guy. On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 12:44 PM, Jim Harris wrote: > Hi to everyone, > Some may recall that a couple of weeks ago I asked about hooking up a JPS > NIR-12 DSP between my K3 and computer for RTTY contesting. The idea was to > try to clean up the signal a bit more before the sound card prcesses it. I > under took this after learning that at least one prominent RTTY contester > does this with excellent results. But, for me, in a few words it didn't > work out very well even though I tested it prior to the RTTY Roundup > contest. There may have been some extenuating circumstances as after again > hooking the audio straight from the K3 to the computer there still seemed > to be some muddiness without totally clean decoding. I will have to do > some more troubleshooting on that. Once I get that sorted out I am going to > try the DSP again. If I make progress I will report back for those > interested. > I might add that the K3 with my K2 in a SO2R combination was not a total > disaster as I had 917 contacts in about 18 hours of operating. I used a > Heathkit active filter between the K2 and the computer and found it greatly > helped clean up the audio making decode in MMTTY the best I've seen in some > years of RTTY contesting. I used it in combination with some DSP > processing and XFIL RF3 in the K2. It would have been nice if the MMTTY > decoding of the K3 audio had been as good. > Sorry for the bandwidth, but one thing I might add. I use ear buds with a > small commercially available combiner box to listen to the audio from each > radio. Shortly before the contest I realized I had a giant ground loop > someplace. After trouble shooting I found it was caused by the box > grounding the two radio's together. A hastily put together isolation > transformer solved that. > Constructive thought and comments always appreciated. > > Take pride in the USA. 73 > > > > Jim, W0EM > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX3 broadcast-band receive measurements
We've had quite a few questions about broadcast-band reception on the KX3 (0.5-1.7 MHz) and how the KXAT3 ATU helps in this range. The KXAT3 option module includes some extra elements that reconfigure its ATU L-network as a preselector for the AM broadcast band. This helps reject receive image responses in the broadcast band. The center frequency of the ATU's preselector automatically tracks the VFO. We optimized the preselector for use with typical HF antennas, which appear very reactive in the AM broadcast band. You could of course use a tuned antenna for this range as well. We now have some preliminary performance measurements. With the ATU installed, a 500-kHz signal comes up about 23 dB in amplitude, and the third-harmonic image drops by about 40 dB. This is typical for the lower portion of the band. Harmonic image rejection will get even better as you go higher in the broadcast band, because at some point the 160-meter low-pass filter starts rolling off. At the high end of the broadcast band, the 160-meter band-pass filter is also kicked in. Recent firmware changes allow the KX3 to receive down to 310 kHz, although the high-pass filter, which protects the PIN diodes in the T/ R switch, causes increasing attenuation as you tune lower. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 --- Cancel WTB -- found one
Found a nice K2 of the configuration I wanted. Thanks to several of the members for offering me K2s. I have sent personal emails as well. Would have built one but am running out of time before I need to travel with it. Greg K2UM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3Util and P3Util Error: Help System encountered a problem. [Linux Ubuntu 10.04]
The Linux versions of the Utilities share the same source code with the Mac versions. They are developed and maintained on the Mac using Real Studio. Real Studio provides cross-compilation for Mac and Linux (and Windows). Real Studio does not yet support 64-bit Linux. So until it does, I have no way of providing 64-bit. If someone would like to take on the task of porting all of the Utilities to native Linux, I'm sure it could be arranged. But it would be a *massive* project. The Elecraft Utilities are not trivial apps. They have been in development for years. I'm not sure that investing the time and effort necessary would be worth it - just to get a 64-bit binary. The 32-bit versions works just fine on 64-bit as long as the 32-bit compatibility libraries are installed. David, W4SMT --- On Wed, 1/11/12, Larry J on his Dell LT wrote: > I agree 100 percent with > Pierfrancesco!!! (See excerpt below) If I > had a native 64 bit binary for the Elecraft P3/ K3 > Utility, I wouldn't have to come begging here. > After all, I just spent more than $4000 on this > hardware. Better yet, Elecraft: > Open the source your dam Utilities and I'll > compile my own. > > Elecraft: I'm willing to go NDA so that > you could provide source for the P3/K3 utilities to me, I'll > compile, maintain, and package 64 bit > versions and put it in a PPA for all to access > freely. No charge to you. Let me know. > > Larry W0AY > > On 01/10/2012 11:37 PM, Pierfrancesco Caci wrote: > > Now, it's 2012, can we*please* have a native > 64 bit version of the > > utility? And also a standalone html or pdf copy of the > help file, > > pointing the browser to the Help directory gives a lot > of broken links. > > > > Pf > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] JPS NIR-12 with K3 IN RTTY Contest
Hi to everyone, Some may recall that a couple of weeks ago I asked about hooking up a JPS NIR-12 DSP between my K3 and computer for RTTY contesting. The idea was to try to clean up the signal a bit more before the sound card prcesses it. I under took this after learning that at least one prominent RTTY contester does this with excellent results. But, for me, in a few words it didn't work out very well even though I tested it prior to the RTTY Roundup contest. There may have been some extenuating circumstances as after again hooking the audio straight from the K3 to the computer there still seemed to be some muddiness without totally clean decoding. I will have to do some more troubleshooting on that. Once I get that sorted out I am going to try the DSP again. If I make progress I will report back for those interested. I might add that the K3 with my K2 in a SO2R combination was not a total disaster as I had 917 contacts in about 18 hours of operating. I used a Heathkit active filter between the K2 and the computer and found it greatly helped clean up the audio making decode in MMTTY the best I've seen in some years of RTTY contesting. I used it in combination with some DSP processing and XFIL RF3 in the K2. It would have been nice if the MMTTY decoding of the K3 audio had been as good. Sorry for the bandwidth, but one thing I might add. I use ear buds with a small commercially available combiner box to listen to the audio from each radio. Shortly before the contest I realized I had a giant ground loop someplace. After trouble shooting I found it was caused by the box grounding the two radio's together. A hastily put together isolation transformer solved that. Constructive thought and comments always appreciated. Take pride in the USA. 73 Jim, W0EM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Sideswiper mode for internal keyer (also K3) [Thread closed]
Folks, as per my request yesterday, this thread is now officially closed due to the very high number of posts. Please take further discussion off list. 73, Eric List Moderator www.elecraft.com _..._ On Jan 11, 2012, at 6:16 AM, Pete Smith N4ZR wrote: > At risk of sounding old... - the original meaning of "side-swiper" is a > *manual* key that sends *manual* dots and dashes through side-to-side > rather than vertical motion. The two common side-to-side *electronic* > keyer options are one and two-lever. While a two-lever paddle may not > be ideal for operators used to a single-lever action (like me), they > certainly can be used. I presume that the KX3 paddle is of the > two-lever class. > > If the original question-asker wanted to use a manual side-swiper with a > K3, then I think the KEY jack answer is the right one. > > 73, Pete N4ZR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 and Ameritron AL-811H Amplifier
On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 23:05:39 -0500, Ian Kahn - Ham wrote: > To all who provided guidance and answers to my question today, I > offer > thanks. Turns out the issue was very much one of pilot error. When > in > CW mode, one absolutely *must* remember to enable VOX. :-) > > Thanks and 73 to all. > > Ian Kahn, KM4IK > Roswell, GA > km4ik@gmail.com > K3 #231, P3 #688 > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html DUH! been there, got the "Tee" shirt! ...bill nr4c __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Sideswiper mode for internal keyer (also K3)
At risk of sounding old... - the original meaning of "side-swiper" is a *manual* key that sends *manual* dots and dashes through side-to-side rather than vertical motion. The two common side-to-side *electronic* keyer options are one and two-lever. While a two-lever paddle may not be ideal for operators used to a single-lever action (like me), they certainly can be used. I presume that the KX3 paddle is of the two-lever class. If the original question-asker wanted to use a manual side-swiper with a K3, then I think the KEY jack answer is the right one. 73, Pete N4ZR The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at reversebeacon.blogspot.com, spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000 On 1/11/2012 8:28 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > The KX3 paddles do not lend themselves to sideswiper action as I have > learned about it. The sideswiper as I know it has the paddles about 2 > inches above the desk and is operated by rolling the wrist and side of > the hand on the table. The KX3 paddles are nice for "squeeze" keying, > and are located close to the surface of the desk - so IMHO, they are > useless for sideswiper motions. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 1/11/2012 1:38 AM, Bill Harris wrote: >> Why mess around with the menu settings?...Just plug the manual key into the >> Key jack in back of the K3 and your set to go. >> Carry-on >> Bill-w7kxb >> . >> >>> Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:17:49 -0700 >>> From: xda...@cis-broadband.com >>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Sideswiper mode for internal keyer (also K3) >>> >>> >>> Come again? How is it more difficult to use the menu to change the K3 >>> to hand key mode than it is to use the menu to change the K3 to >>> sideswiper mode?? I don't get it. >>> >> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 DVR drive/over-dirve level question
My AGC level seems to show excessive drive from the DVR on playback. I get no complaints however. Is the DVR playback drive level adjustable? Is this a concern or does the AGC deal with the "excessive" drive from the DVR? Bob K7VO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Lo P on 10 and 12 meters
Ed, If your antenna is just the end of a wire, what does it have to work against? It needs some sort of reference for the "ground" side of things. The RF WILL find its "ground" reference somewhere, but unless you control where that may be, you can have strange and inconsistent results. So put up another wire of the same length, but running in an opposite direction and connect it to the shell of the BNC connector. I believe your results will be much better. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/10/2012 8:18 PM, EMD wrote: > Hello, > > Once again I'm getting a Lo P message when I try to tune on 10 and 12 > meters. Last month all was well but after coming home this month and > selecting 12 meters I noticed it was quite, not the s meter reading I > expected, 10 meters was also quite. I tried tuning, using AUTO and ALT, and > got the Lo p message even with the power set to 10 watts. > > I have had this issue before and it was a bad solder joint on D4 last time. > So since it worked before and now it's not it makes me wonder what other > component can have a bad solder joint. > > I was also wonder if maybe my antenna might be an issue. I'm using just a > long wire hanging out an up stairs window for now connected to a tree about > 25 feet in the air. Would getting a better antenna like a G5RV( I think > thats it ) would help the situation? Or maybe a better quality wire? But I > think it's an internal issue. > > Going to need a watt better so can anyone recommend a good QRP watt meter. > > 73, > Ed KE7HGA > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Sideswiper mode for internal keyer (also K3)
The KX3 paddles do not lend themselves to sideswiper action as I have learned about it. The sideswiper as I know it has the paddles about 2 inches above the desk and is operated by rolling the wrist and side of the hand on the table. The KX3 paddles are nice for "squeeze" keying, and are located close to the surface of the desk - so IMHO, they are useless for sideswiper motions. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/11/2012 1:38 AM, Bill Harris wrote: > Why mess around with the menu settings?...Just plug the manual key into the > Key jack in back of the K3 and your set to go. > Carry-on > Bill-w7kxb > . > >> Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:17:49 -0700 >> From: xda...@cis-broadband.com >> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Sideswiper mode for internal keyer (also K3) >> >> >> Come again? How is it more difficult to use the menu to change the K3 >> to hand key mode than it is to use the menu to change the K3 to >> sideswiper mode?? I don't get it. >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 power out accurate? (UPDATE/CLARIFICATION)
David, That piece of information indicates to me that your wattmeter is not accurate for power readings when the impedance is not 50 ohms. You have the KAT2, and I presume you have calibrated it to agree with your QRP Wattmeter when it is connected to a 50 ohm load. The KAT2 does not change anything on the antenna side, it only creates a low SWR on its input side so the K2 PA transistors are "happy" - there will be no change of the antenna SWR (which is what the wattmeter is reading). With your report, I would hesitate to trust the reading of your QRP Wattmeter when it is connected to something other than a 50 ohm resistive load. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/10/2012 11:46 PM, David Dietrich wrote: > Evening All, > > I neglected to mention this one piece of information with my issue on the > K2/10. The pinning of my Wattmeter happens when I have the K2 connected to > my outside antenna in this order: K2 to Wattmeter to outside antenna. This > is after I do a tune and get a low SWR. My K2 DOES have the KAT2 tuner > installed. My antenna is a simple G5RV Jr. I originally said that I had it > connected to a dummy load and that was happening. Sorry about that. > > I did connect the K2 to my Wattmeter, and then to my Dummy Load, and power > output was within a Watt or so on different power settings. So, that tells > me the Wattmeter is calibrated within tolerances and the power out appears to > be accurate. I also verified this with my other HF radios, both kit AND > commercially produced. > > Still, I wonder what would cause my Wattmeter to be pinned at 5W when > transmitting into an actual antenna? > > The Wattmeter is the QRP Wattmeter from Oak Hills Research, and the 100 W > dummy load is from them as well. > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 power out accurate?
David, OK on your wattmeter and dummy load. Since you have the KAT2 installed in your K2, check the wattmeter balance (null adjustment), and then calibrate the forward power so it agrees with your wattmeter. If you have the KAT1 installed in your K1, the same thing applies - those wattmeters must be calibrated against some instrument that you can trust for accuracy. Your response indicates that you are willing to trust your OHR QRP Wattmeter, so use that as your "standard". Keep the cable between the K2, the wattmeter, and the dummy load to a minimum when making those adjustments - zero length is good. When doing the balance adjustment, connect the K2 directly to the dummy load. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/10/2012 9:05 PM, David Dietrich wrote: > Hi Don! > > As always, thanks for the reply and info...Much appreciated. I am fairly > confident of the Wattmeter's readings. It is an Oak Hills Research QRP > Wattmeter. I spent a good 1/2 hour getting the correct readings for > alignment with my DMM once the kit was finished. My dummy load is from Oak > Hills Research as well, and I built it right around the time I built the > Wattmeter this past spring. Again, when I made my final measurements with my > DMM, I got a reading of 49.9 Ohms. > > Concerning the Wattmeter, I checked power readings into the Wattmeter using > the load with my other HF gear. My Norcal 40A was reading 3 W at key down, > my Yaesu was reading within a Watt of the meter, and so was my ICOM. I > checked my ICOM against my antenna tuner too, and it was almost spot on. > However, I did notice that my K1 was only putting out 1 W per the meter at > full drive, but that is an issue for another thread. > > > I was in CW mode when I was noticing this. My K2/10 has the KAT2 installed. > I am just wondering if we did something wrong yesterday. We spent a good 3 > hours on the procedure. > > > 73, > > David > KC9EHQ > > > > > From: Don Wilhelm > To: David Dietrich > Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" > Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 6:03 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 power out accurate? > > David, > > Yes, I have several "ideas". First of all, how confident are you of your QRP > wattmeter readings? Know that typical wattmeters can be in error by as much > as 20% of full scale - if the full scale is 10 watts, that is a 2 watt > potential error *anywhere* on the meter scale. Secondly, what is the actual > impedance of your dummy load? > > If your dummy load is a good 50 ohm resistive load, I would state that the K2 > power indication is more accurate than any external wattmeter - OTOH, if the > dummy load is not 50 ohms resistive (check with an antenna analyzer), then > your readings can be "all over the map". > > The base K2 power output reading is only accurate if you are driving a load > that is 50+j0 - in other words, a perfect 50 ohm load. If one adds the KAT2 > or the KAT100 or the KPA100, then that situation changes because those > options add a real wattmeter - the basic K2 uses an RF voltage detector which > is accurate, but only into a 50 ohm resistive load. In all my testing of > the K2 (going on 7 years now), I have found that the K2 power indication is > better than most wattmeters - given the condition that the dummy load is a > good 50 ohm pure resistive load - in other words, a precision dummy load. > > Sources of dummy loads meeting my requirements for measurement accuracy, try > Ridge Equipment https://www.ridgeequipment.com/store/index.html. They have > dummy loads accurate enough for measurement purposes - many "dummy loads" are > sufficient for providing a load on a transceiver, but may not be of > "measurement quality". > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 1/10/2012 6:23 PM, David Dietrich wrote: >> Hello All! >> >> My friend and I spent yesterday aligning my Norcal 40A and recently finished >> K2/10 #7164. We really did not play too much with the K2 after we finished >> aligning as we were also working on some other things in my shack. >> >> When I was starting to really get to know the ins and outs of the radio, I >> noticed that the power out indicated on the display when you adjust the >> power knob is much higher as indicated on my QRP Wattmeter. I set the radio >> to around 2.0 W, and the Wattmeter is showing around 5W. When I was at >> about 5-6 W, I pinned the needle on the Wattmeter. We followed the manual >> to a "T" and used a frequency counter, my Wattmeter, a 'scope, and signal >> generator to do the alignment. >> >> Any ideas? >> >> Thanks& 73, >> >> David >> KC9EHQ >> > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >
[Elecraft] FS: Loaded K1
Excellent condition, SN 2643, less than 2 years old. Has the following options Noise blanker Antenna tuner Backlight kit Internal battery kit 4 band module ( 40-30-20-15) Set up for approximately 160 kHz bfo range. Second owner, non smoking environment, works perfect. Comes with all manuals, power cord and original top cover with speaker. (Replaced with top cover that comes with the battery option. Will ship and insure in the US for $395. Paypal preferred but postal money order ok. No trades please. Thanks Tim NZ8J __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3Util and P3Util Error: Help System encountered a problem. [Linux Ubuntu 10.04]
I agree 100 percent with Pierfrancesco!!! (See excerpt below) If I had a native 64 bit binary for the Elecraft P3/ K3 Utility, I wouldn't have to come begging here. After all, I just spent more than $4000 on this hardware. Better yet, Elecraft: Open the source your dam Utilities and I'll compile my own. Elecraft: I'm willing to go NDA so that you could provide source for the P3/K3 utilities to me, I'll compile, maintain, and package 64 bit versions and put it in a PPA for all to access freely. No charge to you. Let me know. Larry W0AY On 01/10/2012 11:37 PM, Pierfrancesco Caci wrote: > Now, it's 2012, can we*please* have a native 64 bit version of the > utility? And also a standalone html or pdf copy of the help file, > pointing the browser to the Help directory gives a lot of broken links. > > Pf __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Audio Problem after fitting KNB1 Noise Blanker
Thank you Don & Mike for your suggestions! Yes, I had somehow accidentally moved S2 into the TEST position when removing C2. Putting it back into the OPER position cured the problem I feel a bit of a fool but thanks both for helping out 73 Ray, G3XLG -Original Message- From: Mike Morrow [mailto:k...@earthlink.net] Sent: 11 January 2012 02:11 To: Ray Spreadbury; d...@w3fpr.com Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Audio Problem after fitting KNB1 Noise Blanker Ray wrote: > The "whine" is a steady continuous tone (perhaps at 800 or 900 cycles), not > popping, nor a low pitched oscillation and in fact I wondered if the > sidetone spot was on or if the key was down. Have you checked that the small slide switch S2 for for the OFFSET TEST adjustment (on bottom of the RF board) didn't get inadvertently placed in the TEST position rather than the OPER position? I'd check that before anything else. 73, Mike / KK5F __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
