Re: [Elecraft] Source for Type 31 Toroids
F5vjc wrote: >I have just opened a Mouser account in France and ordered a quantity >of, 2631803802 = FT240-3 Fair-Rite. > >I hope they're OK. Thanks for the tip on the weight data Ian, I'll >check them when they arrive. > You should have no problem, as Mouser are one of those "dependable suppliers". Their catalogue prices are not the cheapest, but Mouser's free international shipping makes them the least expensive way to buy Fair-Rite products in the UK. Do they have the same free shipping offer to France? 73 from Ian GM3SEK http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek >> >> 2631803802 = "FT240-31": 112-114g [1] >> 2643803802 = "FT240-43": 120-122g [1] >> 5961003801 = "FT240-61": 104-106g >> >> Original data from G3TXQ, since verified from dependable suppliers. >> >> [1] The Fair-Rite data sheet says "118.000g" for both of these cores, >> but in fact the weights of #31 and #43 are distinctly different. >> -- __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Source for Type 31 Toroids
I have just opened a Mouser account in France and ordered a quantity of, 2631803802 = FT240-3 Fair-Rite. I hope they're OK. Thanks for the tip on the weight data Ian, I'll check them when they arrive. 73, Deni F5VJC On 10 February 2012 23:55, Ian White GM3SEK wrote: > Fred Jensen wrote: >>On 2/10/2012 2:05 PM, Jim Brown wrote: >>> On 2/10/2012 1:39 PM, Ken Alexander wrote: >> >>> Amidon does not make this stuff. They are a distributor of Fair-Rite >>> and some other manufacturers, and NOT a good one. I'd bet there's no >>> one there who has a clue about anything technical. There USED to be a >>> ham there whose name was Amidon, but he's LONG LONG gone, and any >>> technical data there is a leftover from his days. >> >>Many years ago [as in maybe 54], I needed a ferrite core for a 4:1 >>balun. DX Engineering hadn't been invented then. I drove over to >>Amidon [N. Hollywood/Burbank-ish] which turned out to be a suburban >>house. A fellow, who's name was Amidon opened the door, installed me in >>a living room filled to the brim with all sorts of boxes and stuff, >>rummaged around in a bedroom and finally came up with the toroid core. >>He wanted a lot for the core, in fact more than the 16 year old had. He >>finally asked me where I had come from, and when I told him S. Central >>LA, he gave me the core. >> >>The balun didn't work, probably because I wound it wrong. I'm really >>surprised they are still in business. > > > Any company handling anonymous grey toroids needs to have perfect stock > control... and Amidon still don't. I was sold a large number of #31 > toroids which turned out to be #43 material. > > So if you do buy from Amidon, check the weight! > > 2631803802 = "FT240-31": 112-114g [1] > 2643803802 = "FT240-43": 120-122g [1] > 5961003801 = "FT240-61": 104-106g > > Original data from G3TXQ, since verified from dependable suppliers. > > [1] The Fair-Rite data sheet says "118.000g" for both of these cores, > but in fact the weights of #31 and #43 are distinctly different. > > > -- > > 73 from Ian GM3SEK > http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Tx Eq question
Richard, As I recall, the TX EQ and compression are set to zero when in DATA modes. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/11/2012 10:31 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote: > If the answer to this is in the manual, I didn't see it. > > I have been getting into SSTV and I noticed my Rx Eq settings affected the > waterfall display (understood). That made me wonder about the Tx Eq settings > I use. The question is: does the Tx Eq have any effect on the audio into the > radio on the back panel? I would think not.?? In other words, is it only > acting on the microphone audio.? > > For future consideration, it would be nice to have a way to switch off the Eq > w/o losing the settings. Not a complaint, just a convenience. Maybe there is, > and I haven't learned. > > Richard Fjeld, n0ce > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 Tx Eq question
If the answer to this is in the manual, I didn't see it. I have been getting into SSTV and I noticed my Rx Eq settings affected the waterfall display (understood). That made me wonder about the Tx Eq settings I use. The question is: does the Tx Eq have any effect on the audio into the radio on the back panel? I would think not.?? In other words, is it only acting on the microphone audio.? For future consideration, it would be nice to have a way to switch off the Eq w/o losing the settings. Not a complaint, just a convenience. Maybe there is, and I haven't learned. Richard Fjeld, n0ce __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Today I got to play with the KX3: Initial impressions
Today I got to play with Serial No. 6 KX3. While I didn't have as much time as I wished, I was able to familiarize myself with it's operation, controls and overall design. My initial impressions are posted at: http://www.worldwidedx.com/elecraft-kx3/134267-elecraft-kx3-hands-preview.html --- Owner, worldwidedx.com AE6LX, Amateur Radio NNN0ITA, Navy MARS NNN0GAF FOUR, Southern CA Training Director, Navy MARS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question
HI Gary, This was discussed recently. See: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/macro-to-control-KPA500-td7240517.html#a7243817 73, ~iain / N6ML On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 5:58 PM, Gary wrote: > I have a question for the KPA500 owners: > > I've been reading through the manuals and exchanging some emails with > Elecraft support over whether or not a directly connected KPA500 amp can be > turned ON/OFF in concert with the K3 it's connected to. It appears this > capability doesn't exist however looking through the available I/O I've come > up with the following idea; > > I see a provision in the KPA500 for a pulsed low input at the KPA's AUX > connector pin 8 to turn the amp ON or OFF. For those not using transverters > could a K3 menu option be added to pulse low the K3's ACC connector pin 7 > (K3 ON) for KPA500 control? If I add a KPA500 to my K3/P3 station I would > like to be able to turn all ON/OFF using only the K3's power switch. I > realize the KPAUX cable set may not support this idea but aside from that > can it work? I'm mostly concerned about the turn OFF command and whether or > not it can be made to function as I suggested while the radio is in the > process of shutting itself down. If this does work then perhaps we can > persuade Wayne to add the option into a future K3 firmware upgrade. > > 73, > Gary > > N6LRV > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA500 question
I have a question for the KPA500 owners: I've been reading through the manuals and exchanging some emails with Elecraft support over whether or not a directly connected KPA500 amp can be turned ON/OFF in concert with the K3 it's connected to. It appears this capability doesn't exist however looking through the available I/O I've come up with the following idea; I see a provision in the KPA500 for a pulsed low input at the KPA's AUX connector pin 8 to turn the amp ON or OFF. For those not using transverters could a K3 menu option be added to pulse low the K3's ACC connector pin 7 (K3 ON) for KPA500 control? If I add a KPA500 to my K3/P3 station I would like to be able to turn all ON/OFF using only the K3's power switch. I realize the KPAUX cable set may not support this idea but aside from that can it work? I'm mostly concerned about the turn OFF command and whether or not it can be made to function as I suggested while the radio is in the process of shutting itself down. If this does work then perhaps we can persuade Wayne to add the option into a future K3 firmware upgrade. 73, Gary N6LRV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Z Bracket & Top Cover
Well, here what I discovered that is causing or contributing to the top cover protrusion (at lease in my case): 1) My power transformer is not symmetrical. It is thicker on the z-bracket side and thinner on the left side. When the nut is tightened, the metal disk leans to the left causing the bolt to also lean to the left. The head of the bolt put a twisting moment on the bottom cover causing the left front corner to be bent slightly down. This then pulls the left side panel down which now causes the front panel to also droop slightly on the left side. Now all of this is a matter 20-30 thousands of an inch, so it's certainly not huge but enough to contribute to the protrusion. 2) The very top/front edge of the Z bracket protrudes several thousands of an inch above the folded over portion that contains the screw bosses. So, tightening the front/middle cover screw actually causes the front cover to be pushed up slightly at the edge. I think this is a manufacturing defect. Here's what I've done so far. 1) After loosening the transformer I straightened the slight bend in the bottom cover by putting a shim under the left side panel and pressing down with a blunt tool on the bottom cover just in front of the transformer. 2) I put some plastic shims under the metal disk on the thinner side to allow the plate to remain level and the bolt perpendicular as the nut is tightened. There is still some distortion of the bottom cover when the nut is tightened to 55 in-lbs. I believe the extra plate on the bottom is intended to remedy this, but there is still some distortion. After all this there is still some protrusion but about 1/2 as much as before...the total in the middle is about 30 thousands while the edges are about 10 thousands. So the middle is about 20 higher than it should be. BTW, the z bracket by itself is not at fault (other than the slight defect at the top/front. It's actually about 8-10 thousands shorten in the front than the rear. So, bottom line, as best I can tell, the bottom cover distortion caused by tightening the transformer bolt is the main culprit. Once again, this is NOT a big deal but just not quite up the the "fit and finish" standard that Elecraft is well known for. I'll give the folks in CA a call next week to see what advice they have. --- Chuck, AE4CW -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Z-Bracket-Top-Cover-tp7275169p7277027.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening, I hope you all have had a great week. Weather here has been on the edge of wet and dry and sun and fog. Only a few downpours though there have been some days where the fog was so thick it was dripping. Propagation has been good with various types of QSB making life interesting. It feels good to sit by the fire, listen to the rain and the radio, while working on the computers. Yes, computers; there are three within arm's reach. Each of them is running a different part of the project. One could say I am balancing my screen real estate :) Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening. 1) Hail signs (first letter or two of the suffix of your call) 2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP help) Sunday 2300z (Sunday 3 PM PST) 14050 kHz Monday 0100z (Sunday 5 PM PST) 7045 kHz Stay well, Kevin. KD5ONS - __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Hopeless Confused - K3 and Digital Modes
Hi Gary, Just download Ham Radio Delux (version 5.1 has just been released and this version is still free) and connect the output of your computer sound lines speakes and microphone directly to the computer. This is what I have done with mine. I run all the digital modes this way and I mean all.I even have JT65 and other modes not supported by HRD but connecting to it for the log book. Its relatively easy to set up, and I say that based on the fact that I got it running and if you read my posts you know I need lots of help in this hobby. So take advantage of the fact the the k3 does not need a seperate sound card and get your feet wet. Then if you want a sound card for other computer stuff you can either get one or disconnect stuff. In any case you can get started while you figure out what you want for the other sound card system. Personally I have a seperate PC for my ham shack that I dont do the general surfing stuff and it only gets software specfically for my hamming activities. I want to minimize any chances of virusus which have killed me twice. Anyway good luck and you will get support on this reflector for sure. Cheers ~73 Don KD8NNU On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 4:12 PM, Gary K9GS wrote: > Hello all, > > OK...I decided I need some help from people who have done this before. > I know this is pretty long-winded and I'd be happy to take this off of > the reflector if desired. > > I had planned on spending this weekend reconfiguring the shack but > before I started adding cables, changing software configurations and > K3 menu items I better get a plan in place. > > I want to explore operating digital modes on the HF bands. Primarily, > I'm interested in RTTY and PSK. Right now, 90% of my operating is CW > and a little SSB thrown in. DXing and contesting are my primary > interests. > > I'm pretty computer savvy but my knowledge of digital modes and radio > interfacing is limited to CW and N1MM/Logger32. > > I should note that during the HK0NA operation I did try using the K3 > utility to work them on RTTY. I was able to receive OK but spend a > LOT of time trying unsuccessfully to work them. I was able to > transmit but I suspect I had something screwed up with mark/space > tones in the K3 set-up. In the monitor of the K3 I heard "RTTY" tones > but had no idea if they were the correct ones. This is what has > finally spurred me to get all of this figured out. > > My current configuration consists of the following: > > *PC running XP Pro > *1 serial port (currently connected directly to the K3 for CAT > control) > *1 parallel port (I used to use this port for CW keying of the K3. I > just recently purchased a WK-USB to take over this task. > *Multiple USB ports (1 being currently used for the WK-USB) > > *K3 w/sub-receiver > *CW QSK using the WK-USB and either N1MM or Logger32 (see below) > *When I operate SSB I use a Heil headset connected to the front panel > through a Heil adapter and I use a foot switch for PTT connected to > the K3 rear panel. > > WK-USB for CW keying and a paddle plugged into the WK-USB for sending > by hand. > > For contesting I use N1MM. > For day to day operation I use Logger32 for logging. I am leaning > very heavily towards changing to DX Labsuite, however. > > All that said, I'm trying to figure out the highest performance > solution for adding in digital modes, primarily RTTY but also > sound-card modes like PSK. > > I've been to countless web sites, reviewed postings on this and other > forums and the more I read the more I am confused with which way to > proceed. > > I like the idea of using a separate sound-card so that the integrated > sound-card in my PC can be used with pair of speakers for normal > computer tasks. > > I thought about buying a Signalink USB for the separate sound-card but > the more I look at this if I ever want to use the sub receiver on the > K3 for RTTY, I'm only 1/2 way there...I would need to buy a second > Signalink USB USB for the sub receiver. To do this I would need to > run separate instances of, MTTY I believe?? > > I also thought about going the MicroHam/Rigblaster route but before I > spend hundreds of dollars and still not know if this is a complete > solution I thought I'd seek some advice. > > Then I thought about buying two USB sound-cards with one going to each > receiver. A quick look on Amazon shows these ranging in cost from > less than $1.00 (yes, I saw one for $0.48 today) to over $100. > > And then the whole topic of how to best place the K3 into transmit has > me very confused. Do I build a RS-232 interface box like the one W3YY > describes at http://w3yy.com/fsk.htm ? This would allow FSK RTTY > operation too which I understand is the best way to go but then I've > got the problem of needing an additional RS232 port on my computer. I > also thought I could press my old parallel-port interface (that I used > to use for CW keying of the K3) to perfo
Re: [Elecraft] Flying with a rig
It has been a tossup whether TSA asks me to take the K3 out of the carry on bag, or two K3's this past October to KP2M. N2TK, Tony -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 7:00 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Flying with a rig Following up. TSA asked me to take the K3 out of the bag before it went thru the scanner in Jacksonville FL. On the return flight from Atlanta, they didn't ask. 73, Mike NF4L On 1/30/2012 1:26 PM, Mike wrote: > What's your experience/advice about a domestic flight in the TSA era > with a K3 in carry-on buggage? > > 73, Mike NF4L > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA500 + RTTY
Been loafing around some in the WPX RTTY with KPA500 running 500W. The higher in frequency I go, the higher the fans max out at. I attribute this to Planck's Law for black body radiators [my KPA500 *is* black, after all], more energy in higher frequencies. At least, that's my story and I'm sticking to it. The real bottom line is the temp never goes over 70C, and that only on 10m, and it just sits there on the desk and makes RF. The K3/100 is delivering about 27 +/- watts depending on band, so needless to say, it is loafing too. Nice combination. A KAT500 would make it just a tad nicer. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Flying with a rig
Following up. TSA asked me to take the K3 out of the bag before it went thru the scanner in Jacksonville FL. On the return flight from Atlanta, they didn't ask. 73, Mike NF4L On 1/30/2012 1:26 PM, Mike wrote: > What's your experience/advice about a domestic flight in the TSA era with a > K3 in > carry-on buggage? > > 73, Mike NF4L > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
On 2/11/2012 3:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > There is a price to be paid for reliability and consistency. > Make your choices and take whatever "licks" result from them. "Good, Fast, Cheap." Pick any two. First Law of Engineering 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA100 option wanted, with KAT100 if possible.
I'm considering going QRO with my S/N 4913 K2/10. Does anyone have a KPA 100 they'd like to sell? Also looking for a KAT100. Chris WB4WZR -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA100-option-wanted-with-KAT100-if-possible-tp7276911p7276911.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
Willis, I would add the fact that the consumer quality USB to Serial adapters do not fully implement the RS-232 standard voltages for drivers swinging between +25 volts and -25 volts, and receivers that will accept a voltage of +3.5 volts or greater as a mark and those of -3.5 volts or less as a space. In addition, the slew rate may not be great enough to allow good conversion to real RS-232 levels. BTW - this situation is nothing new - when the IBM PC was introduced, the serial port did not drive the negative level below -5 volts - that fact alone reduced the distance the IBM PC could drive RS-232 serial lines. The lack of adherence to standards (voltage levels, timings, etc.) has created a bunch of devices that "work", but while not to standards, do work in certain common instances - such is the fallout from consumer oriented USB to Serial adapters. As I have mentioned, there are commercial versions that "do it right", but they are quite "pricy" compared to the consumer variety that will work most of the time. There is a price to be paid for reliability and consistency. Make your choices and take whatever "licks" result from them. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/11/2012 6:25 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote: > Ron, RS-232 serial interface has been defined for at least 25 years and its > functions are well known and stable so the radio software and hardware > producers can design to these specifications. The converters are designed to > emulate the portion of these functions that the designers feel are needed, > but do not conform to any IEEE standard so that other manufacturers can > depend on their function. RS-232 is coded and decoded by hardware, so it is > stable. USB converters are coded by some software and some hardware and are > decoded by the RS-232 receiver. The software portion is somewhat different > for the different operating systems. It takes a while after a new operating > system is implemented for the converter writers to get it right. FTDI and > Prolific are two companies who write software and sell chips for USB > converters. Lots of people buy chips from these two companies and mold them > into connector/cable assemblies and then retail them under > various brands. It is not real easy to find out which chips have been used > and often the end brand does not identify the chip used. Both of them work > OK with most printers, scanners and other serial connected computer stuff, > but it can be a different story with ham radio stuff where sometimes more is > demanded and RS-232 compliance is usually assumed. FTDI seems to do a better > job than Prolific, but you have to try the software/hardware combination > before you know. I had a lot of trouble when I bought a Win7 computer a > couple of years ago and endured some real rude comments from the computer > crowd when trying to figure out the combination. I bought a RS-232 card for > my computer and have not had trouble since. I suspect that the problems with > USB converters has been worked out in the two years so that things work > better now. My USB converter that I bought with my K3 in 2007 worked well > with the Elecraft software, but not with my loggers. I > understand that the older converters were Prolific and that Elecraft now > supplies FTDI, or at least something that will work. The cards work well > with desk top computers, but are not so easy with lap tops that have only > USB. The computer world is trying to get away from RS-232 in favor of USB, > but the ham radio community does not want to throw away perfectly good > hardware every four or five years like the computer world is geared to do. > Also, ham radio operators expect to know how everything works, computer > people not so much. > > Willis 'Cookie' Cooke > K5EWJ& Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart > > > > From: roncasa > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 1:38 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB > > It really begs the question for some us who do not understand or are not > computer geeks: > > what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. > > We understand each one behaving (responding) differently with software > to radio control, and that some don't work at all, I do not understand > what makes one preferred over the other (such as elecraft serial/usb > adaptor cable) > Prolific also works with most stuff too. > For example, are they "platform" related? (micr0$oft) > Is this akin to "ordinary" DVD player as opposed to a "blue ray" player > that can play "both"?? > > 72 > Ron, wb1hga > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >
Re: [Elecraft] #7261 passes Alignment and test part II
Presumably you are talking about a K3 Don :-) It appears that what's different is that you switched sidebands. Have you entered the filter offsets indicated on them (or, if using the 8-pole filters are the offsets all zero)? Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Baucom Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 2:04 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] #7261 passes Alignment and test part II I am happy to report everything seems to be fine with the receiver. All measurements went well and I enjoyed listening to some cw. I thought the receiver ws spot on 7.020 when I hooked up the XG3. I did all of the alignement steps before I hooked up the XG3. After that, I played around with the receiver switching filters and moving around the band. I then put it on LSB and listened to some SSB.. I was about to wrap up when I decided to hook up the XG3 and check it again. Now the 7.020 signal is strongest at 7.0215. ( using FL2 with out any changes to the settings) I wonder what I did. Perhaps I just thought the signal was on 7.020 and it was strongest on 7.0215 the whole time. Should I try to correct this or worry about it after I finish the transmitter section? Thanks 73 Don K4YND __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
Ron, RS-232 serial interface has been defined for at least 25 years and its functions are well known and stable so the radio software and hardware producers can design to these specifications. The converters are designed to emulate the portion of these functions that the designers feel are needed, but do not conform to any IEEE standard so that other manufacturers can depend on their function. RS-232 is coded and decoded by hardware, so it is stable. USB converters are coded by some software and some hardware and are decoded by the RS-232 receiver. The software portion is somewhat different for the different operating systems. It takes a while after a new operating system is implemented for the converter writers to get it right. FTDI and Prolific are two companies who write software and sell chips for USB converters. Lots of people buy chips from these two companies and mold them into connector/cable assemblies and then retail them under various brands. It is not real easy to find out which chips have been used and often the end brand does not identify the chip used. Both of them work OK with most printers, scanners and other serial connected computer stuff, but it can be a different story with ham radio stuff where sometimes more is demanded and RS-232 compliance is usually assumed. FTDI seems to do a better job than Prolific, but you have to try the software/hardware combination before you know. I had a lot of trouble when I bought a Win7 computer a couple of years ago and endured some real rude comments from the computer crowd when trying to figure out the combination. I bought a RS-232 card for my computer and have not had trouble since. I suspect that the problems with USB converters has been worked out in the two years so that things work better now. My USB converter that I bought with my K3 in 2007 worked well with the Elecraft software, but not with my loggers. I understand that the older converters were Prolific and that Elecraft now supplies FTDI, or at least something that will work. The cards work well with desk top computers, but are not so easy with lap tops that have only USB. The computer world is trying to get away from RS-232 in favor of USB, but the ham radio community does not want to throw away perfectly good hardware every four or five years like the computer world is geared to do. Also, ham radio operators expect to know how everything works, computer people not so much. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart From: roncasa To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 1:38 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB It really begs the question for some us who do not understand or are not computer geeks: what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. We understand each one behaving (responding) differently with software to radio control, and that some don't work at all, I do not understand what makes one preferred over the other (such as elecraft serial/usb adaptor cable) Prolific also works with most stuff too. For example, are they "platform" related? (micr0$oft) Is this akin to "ordinary" DVD player as opposed to a "blue ray" player that can play "both"?? 72 Ron, wb1hga __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
I refined the search and found the items you are referring to. Thanks a ton! 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: Ron W3ZV [mailto:w...@verizon.net] Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 5:00 PM To: Bill K9YEQ Subject: Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB I paid $35 on eBay. 4 port. It worked fine. Keep looking. Ron W3ZV On Feb 11, 2012, at 5:43 PM, Bill K9YEQ wrote: > Don, > > Thanks! I found a digi on Amazon for $ 216. There was a > reconditioned unit by Saitek, but I believe that is Chinese and I am > no so certain it isn't a knock off. I will check out eBay. > > 73, > Bill > K9YEQ > > > -Original Message- > From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:d...@w3fpr.com] > Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 4:41 PM > To: Bill K9YEQ > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB > > Bill, > > I bought mine some time ago (when they were cheap) on Ebay - I have > the > Edgeport/4 (4 port) by Inside Out - that company was sold to Digi > International, and the Digi drivers work with the Edgeport - see if > you can find one being sold on Ebay for a decent price. The drivers > for the /2, /4, > /8 and /16 are the same. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 2/11/2012 5:34 PM, Bill K9YEQ wrote: >> Don, >> >> Which brand are you using? I am looking for a four port. >> >> 73, >> Bill >> K9YEQ >> >> >> -Original Message- >> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net >> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm >> Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 4:08 PM >> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB >> >> All, >> >> I feel I should add to the discussion the fact that these consumer >> quality USB to Serial adapters typically do not like to work at lower >> baud rates - the K2 uses 4800 baud. So an adapter that works at the >> K3 rate of 19.2k > may >> have trouble when attempting to drive a K2. >> >> The commercial quality USB to Serial converters (note that they are >> called converters instead of adapters) may not suffer from the same >> problems, my >> Edgeport/4 converter works well with the K2 even with the high >> polling > rates >> of Ham Radio Deluxe. Of course these commercial quality converters >> are > more >> expensive than the $10 to $40 consumer quality adapters. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> On 2/11/2012 4:14 PM, Bob Cunnings wrote: what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. >>> They are two different manufacturers of USB to Serial hardware ICs >> (chips). >>> http://www.ftdichip.com/ >>> >>> http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/company.asp >>> >>> Besides the hardware, each manufacturer supplies royalty free >>> software (device drivers) as part of the solution for PC operating >>> systems such as Mac, Windows and Linux. >>> >>> At work I have long used FTDI chips in products we design. A >>> customized version of the signed driver package supplied by FTDI for >>> 32 and 64 bit Windows is incorporated into our own software >>> distribution. Prolific is generally ok but lately they have been >>> warning about counterfeit parts and USB to Serial Cables: >>> >>> http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?id=31 >>> >>> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this >> email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Second Antenna Port
I originally did not purchase the KAT3 - I have all resonant antennas at home. Then I had thoughts about using my K3 at the local club's Field Day location, so I bought the KX3 to help with that situation - yes the club has an antenna for each band, but depending on the current hanging height, they may not be resonant. So I "memorized" the tuner settings for each antenna into the K3 at the beginning of the Field Day event and did not have to change them. At home, I run the KAT3 in bypass except when I am using my 160/80/40 meter vertical/inverted L which is quite narrowband. I do not use the 2nd antenna port because I had previously designed switching between the 3 coax runs to the antenna field to one of 3 HF transceivers with a relay matrix that lives in the shack, and remote antenna switches that live at the entry point to the antenna field. Your situation may be different, but I suggest that the KAT3 is a good thing unless you do not ever think about taking your K3 out of the shack. You can easily arrange antenna switching external to the K3 with a little bit of work. The nice thing about using external relays is that you can design the contacts to connect a dummy load to your transceiver when the relay box is not powered - no problems with static surges when not operating. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/11/2012 5:39 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote: > I ordered the K3 with the KAT-3 and if I had it to do over, I would order the > KAT-3 again. My antenna is a 3 element SteppIR at 67 feet with the 30/40 > kit. I have found the tuner very useful during the period when Hurricane Ike > put my StepIR out of service for a few months and I needed to use my inverted > L for the 40 through 6 meter bands. I find it useful in matching to my > Clipperton L amplifier. I find it useful when using my dipoles for short > range contacts when away from the point of resonance. I am sure that > Elecraft has considered offering the tuner board with only the switching > components and considered what discount they could offer. I am not > privileged to their inner workings so my estimate is only a guess, but I > would expect them to lose money on the deal if the discount was more than $50 > and I would not be surprised if they would lose money with no discount at > all, considering that they would sell very few items. What price would > you expect for the board with only the switching components and the antenna > connector? As a KAT-3 owner I can see no disadvantage to buying it other > than the initial price. > > Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, K3 #1025 > K5EWJ& Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] using XVerters with KX3
Well, might as weell tack on a couple of additional questions. 1. Is the delay between the keyline going down/up and the onset/loss of rf a settable value? E.g. can it be used with a keyed amplifier without an external sequencer. 2. Does it have its own set of values in the antenna tuner for each transverter (to make a good match to the tx input of the transverter). --Lenny W2BVH On 2/11/2012 5:20 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote: > On Feb 11, 2012, at 1:44 PM, JonKG6VDW wrote: > >> I am hoping that the KX3 >> will be as easy to interface as the K3 is especially around the >> software and >> frequency offsets. > It will. > > >> I know that the 2m KX3 transverter will be using the 6m >> band as an IF but the my 222 transverter I believe uses 10 meters so >> hoping >> that will still be supported. > Yes. > > >> As to the hardware side doesn't look like there will be separate >> input and >> output for the transverter like there is in the K3.. is that correct ? > You'll need to use the main antenna jack with external transverters. > Power level for transverters is set up in the menu, as on the K3. > > 73, > Wayne > N6KR > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
Don, Thanks! I found a digi on Amazon for $ 216. There was a reconditioned unit by Saitek, but I believe that is Chinese and I am no so certain it isn't a knock off. I will check out eBay. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:d...@w3fpr.com] Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 4:41 PM To: Bill K9YEQ Subject: Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB Bill, I bought mine some time ago (when they were cheap) on Ebay - I have the Edgeport/4 (4 port) by Inside Out - that company was sold to Digi International, and the Digi drivers work with the Edgeport - see if you can find one being sold on Ebay for a decent price. The drivers for the /2, /4, /8 and /16 are the same. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/11/2012 5:34 PM, Bill K9YEQ wrote: > Don, > > Which brand are you using? I am looking for a four port. > > 73, > Bill > K9YEQ > > > -Original Message- > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm > Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 4:08 PM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB > > All, > > I feel I should add to the discussion the fact that these consumer quality > USB to Serial adapters typically do not like to work at lower baud rates - > the K2 uses 4800 baud. So an adapter that works at the K3 rate of 19.2k may > have trouble when attempting to drive a K2. > > The commercial quality USB to Serial converters (note that they are called > converters instead of adapters) may not suffer from the same problems, my > Edgeport/4 converter works well with the K2 even with the high polling rates > of Ham Radio Deluxe. Of course these commercial quality converters are more > expensive than the $10 to $40 consumer quality adapters. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 2/11/2012 4:14 PM, Bob Cunnings wrote: >>> what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. >> They are two different manufacturers of USB to Serial hardware ICs > (chips). >> http://www.ftdichip.com/ >> >> http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/company.asp >> >> Besides the hardware, each manufacturer supplies royalty free software >> (device drivers) as part of the solution for PC operating systems such >> as Mac, Windows and Linux. >> >> At work I have long used FTDI chips in products we design. A >> customized version of the signed driver package supplied by FTDI for >> 32 and 64 bit Windows is incorporated into our own software >> distribution. Prolific is generally ok but lately they have been >> warning about counterfeit parts and USB to Serial Cables: >> >> http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?id=31 >> >> > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Second Antenna Port
I ordered the K3 with the KAT-3 and if I had it to do over, I would order the KAT-3 again. My antenna is a 3 element SteppIR at 67 feet with the 30/40 kit. I have found the tuner very useful during the period when Hurricane Ike put my StepIR out of service for a few months and I needed to use my inverted L for the 40 through 6 meter bands. I find it useful in matching to my Clipperton L amplifier. I find it useful when using my dipoles for short range contacts when away from the point of resonance. I am sure that Elecraft has considered offering the tuner board with only the switching components and considered what discount they could offer. I am not privileged to their inner workings so my estimate is only a guess, but I would expect them to lose money on the deal if the discount was more than $50 and I would not be surprised if they would lose money with no discount at all, considering that they would sell very few items. What price would you expect for the board with only the switching components and the antenna connector? As a KAT-3 owner I can see no disadvantage to buying it other than the initial price. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, K3 #1025 K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart From: K9TM To: Mike Greenway Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 12:40 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Second Antenna Port I too am used to having multiple antenna ports built into the radio and use this to advantage in various situations. I too have no use for an antenna tuner as I use only resonant antennas. It seems there are three options... 1) live with it as is and use outboard switching :-( (2) Give in and add the antenna tuner :-( (3) Make your own solution* :-|, perhaps with help from Elecraft :-) ? * Looking at the schematics, it appears it would be possible to add the control circuitry from the KAT3 to the KANT3 as well as K18 to give ant1/ant2 (K19 too for those with a sub). It seems one could do this and tell the K3 it has KAT3 and then set the tuner to off and use ant1/ant2. Maybe Elecraft would sell a KAT3 bare board or better a bare board and the handful of parts (KAT3 minus tuner parts) and users could roll their own (a kit)? This would allow those of us who are used to this from other radios and like it without negatively impacting Elecraft's normal mfg process and sales (a win-win). Sell us one more kit from parts already in stock. 73, Tim K9TM, KP2TM K3-100, K3-10, KPA500, XV144, XV222, XV432 On Feb 7, 2012, at 8:44 PM, Mike Greenway wrote: I have asked Elecraft several time about giving the option of a second antenna port without having to buy an antenna tuner but so far nothing. I have had a FT1000MP for over 15 years and never used the internal tuner so don’t see me needing one in the K3. The hole is already there for the connector so just need a mod on the ANT Relay board. I know I could put an outboard switch on the outside but I would like to put 6 M on one of the ports and with the outboard switch that make 2 extra connectors in the line. Having the antenna switch inside the radio is a lot more elegant and efficient. Having to pay for the antenna tuner just to get a second port goes against my miserly grain. Having the 2 ports without having to buy the antenna tuner would be a nice selling point for Elecraft I would think. Wonder if anyone has ever tried to install the second antenna port by mod’ing the antenna relay board? I have my asbestos suit on. 73 Mike K4PI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
Don, Which brand are you using? I am looking for a four port. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 4:08 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB All, I feel I should add to the discussion the fact that these consumer quality USB to Serial adapters typically do not like to work at lower baud rates - the K2 uses 4800 baud. So an adapter that works at the K3 rate of 19.2k may have trouble when attempting to drive a K2. The commercial quality USB to Serial converters (note that they are called converters instead of adapters) may not suffer from the same problems, my Edgeport/4 converter works well with the K2 even with the high polling rates of Ham Radio Deluxe. Of course these commercial quality converters are more expensive than the $10 to $40 consumer quality adapters. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/11/2012 4:14 PM, Bob Cunnings wrote: >> what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. > They are two different manufacturers of USB to Serial hardware ICs (chips). > > http://www.ftdichip.com/ > > http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/company.asp > > Besides the hardware, each manufacturer supplies royalty free software > (device drivers) as part of the solution for PC operating systems such > as Mac, Windows and Linux. > > At work I have long used FTDI chips in products we design. A > customized version of the signed driver package supplied by FTDI for > 32 and 64 bit Windows is incorporated into our own software > distribution. Prolific is generally ok but lately they have been > warning about counterfeit parts and USB to Serial Cables: > > http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?id=31 > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Hopeless Confused - K3 and Digital Modes
Gary, Let me try to help a bit. Since you admit to being a "newbie" to digital modes, I suggest you just try it before making any purchases or additions. If your main interest is only RTTY, then get a copy of MMTTY, but if you want other data modes as well, I suggest Fldigi although there are others. The easiest is to use the soundcard - if you want to advance to FSK for RTTY later, you can do that, but for now, stick with the soundcard input and output. You will need 2 stereo cables - between the soundcard line out and the K3 line in, and between the soundcard line in and the K3 line out. You will be using the K3 DATA A submode for PSK, and possibly also for RTTY - you may want to advance to the features for AFSK A for RTTY later, but stick with DATA A to begin with. At the computer, turn off Windows sounds if you are using your default soundcard (I would suggest that to begin with and later determine if an additional soundcard would be an advantage). Set the DATA mode audio input to Line In on the K3. Set the RTTY mark frequency and shift to the same values for both the K3 and your RTTY application. You may want to connect a serial cable between the computer and the K3 RS-232 port and then tell your software application which serial port is connected to your K3 - that will allow the application to control and display the frequency of the K3 as well as provide other control functions. Initially, use the K3 in VOX mode rather than fooling with any extra PTT items - change later if you desire. Set the K3 into TX TEST and adjust your audio input levels so your soundcard output brings the K3 ALC meter to 4 bars solid with the 5th bar flickering - this setting is correct for the K3 and differs from advice usually found for other radios - the fact is that the K3 ALC meter uses the 5th bar to indicate the onset of ALC, the lower bars act as a "VU meter" to aid you in setting the proper audio levels. OK, that is about it - experiment a bit by tuning around and decoding signals - you will get the "hang of it" in short order, then try transmitting. Fldigi covers many digital modes, and that is why I recommend it - as I said, there are other software applications, some are more complex and include additional rig control, and you should use those if you want those features. Jump in and give it a try - TX TEST will allow you to experiment without transmitting RF - then if you have difficulties, just ask about the specifics - someone is bound to help. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/11/2012 4:12 PM, Gary K9GS wrote: > Hello all, > > OK...I decided I need some help from people who have done this before. > I know this is pretty long-winded and I'd be happy to take this off of > the reflector if desired. > > I had planned on spending this weekend reconfiguring the shack but > before I started adding cables, changing software configurations and K3 > menu items I better get a plan in place. > > I want to explore operating digital modes on the HF bands. Primarily, > I'm interested in RTTY and PSK. Right now, 90% of my operating is CW > and a little SSB thrown in. DXing and contesting are my primary interests. > > I'm pretty computer savvy but my knowledge of digital modes and radio > interfacing is limited to CW and N1MM/Logger32. > > I should note that during the HK0NA operation I did try using the K3 > utility to work them on RTTY. I was able to receive OK but spend a LOT > of time trying unsuccessfully to work them. I was able to transmit but > I suspect I had something screwed up with mark/space tones in the K3 > set-up. In the monitor of the K3 I heard "RTTY" tones but had no idea > if they were the correct ones. This is what has finally spurred me to > get all of this figured out. > > My current configuration consists of the following: > > *PC running XP Pro > *1 serial port (currently connected directly to the K3 for CAT control) > *1 parallel port (I used to use this port for CW keying of the K3. I > just recently purchased a WK-USB to take over this task. > *Multiple USB ports (1 being currently used for the WK-USB) > > *K3 w/sub-receiver > *CW QSK using the WK-USB and either N1MM or Logger32 (see below) > *When I operate SSB I use a Heil headset connected to the front panel > through a Heil adapter and I use a foot switch for PTT connected to the > K3 rear panel. > > WK-USB for CW keying and a paddle plugged into the WK-USB for sending by > hand. > > For contesting I use N1MM. > For day to day operation I use Logger32 for logging. I am leaning very > heavily towards changing to DX Labsuite, however. > > All that said, I'm trying to figure out the highest performance solution > for adding in digital modes, primarily RTTY but also sound-card modes > like PSK. > > I've been to countless web sites, reviewed postings on this and other > forums and the more I read the more I am confused with which way to proceed. > > I like the idea of using a separate sound-card so that the integra
Re: [Elecraft] using XVerters with KX3
On Feb 11, 2012, at 1:44 PM, JonKG6VDW wrote: > I am hoping that the KX3 > will be as easy to interface as the K3 is especially around the > software and > frequency offsets. It will. > I know that the 2m KX3 transverter will be using the 6m > band as an IF but the my 222 transverter I believe uses 10 meters so > hoping > that will still be supported. Yes. > > As to the hardware side doesn't look like there will be separate > input and > output for the transverter like there is in the K3.. is that correct ? You'll need to use the main antenna jack with external transverters. Power level for transverters is set up in the menu, as on the K3. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
All, I feel I should add to the discussion the fact that these consumer quality USB to Serial adapters typically do not like to work at lower baud rates - the K2 uses 4800 baud. So an adapter that works at the K3 rate of 19.2k may have trouble when attempting to drive a K2. The commercial quality USB to Serial converters (note that they are called converters instead of adapters) may not suffer from the same problems, my Edgeport/4 converter works well with the K2 even with the high polling rates of Ham Radio Deluxe. Of course these commercial quality converters are more expensive than the $10 to $40 consumer quality adapters. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/11/2012 4:14 PM, Bob Cunnings wrote: >> what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. > They are two different manufacturers of USB to Serial hardware ICs (chips). > > http://www.ftdichip.com/ > > http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/company.asp > > Besides the hardware, each manufacturer supplies royalty free software > (device drivers) as part of the solution for PC operating systems such > as Mac, Windows and Linux. > > At work I have long used FTDI chips in products we design. A > customized version of the signed driver package supplied by FTDI for > 32 and 64 bit Windows is incorporated into our own software > distribution. Prolific is generally ok but lately they have been > warning about counterfeit parts and USB to Serial Cables: > > http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?id=31 > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
Bob, Thanks for the heads up. Must be one of the reasons for bunches of issues with the adapters. This is also the reason I don't mind spending more for a product that I know is genuine. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- >what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. They are two different manufacturers of USB to Serial hardware ICs (chips). http://www.ftdichip.com/ http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/company.asp Besides the hardware, each manufacturer supplies royalty free software (device drivers) as part of the solution for PC operating systems such as Mac, Windows and Linux. At work I have long used FTDI chips in products we design. A customized version of the signed driver package supplied by FTDI for 32 and 64 bit Windows is incorporated into our own software distribution. Prolific is generally ok but lately they have been warning about counterfeit parts and USB to Serial Cables: http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?id=31 Bob NW8L __ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] #7261 passes Alignment and test part II
I am happy to report everything seems to be fine with the receiver. All measurements went well and I enjoyed listening to some cw. I thought the receiver ws spot on 7.020 when I hooked up the XG3. I did all of the alignement steps before I hooked up the XG3. After that, I played around with the receiver switching filters and moving around the band. I then put it on LSB and listened to some SSB.. I was about to wrap up when I decided to hook up the XG3 and check it again. Now the 7.020 signal is strongest at 7.0215. ( using FL2 with out any changes to the settings) I wonder what I did. Perhaps I just thought the signal was on 7.020 and it was strongest on 7.0215 the whole time. Should I try to correct this or worry about it after I finish the transmitter section? Thanks 73 Don K4YND -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/7261-passes-Alignment-and-test-part-II-tp7276790p7276790.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement
The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (2/12/12) at 1800Z on 14.3035 MHz +/- QRM. I will be net control from western Oregon, and we'll try relays to pull in the stations that I can't hear. See you there. 73, Phil, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Taming the SSB receive dragon
Bill, I have 2 suggestions - first for SSB, use Hi/Lo Cut instead of shift and width - set the Lo Cut at 200 or 250 (300 or 350 if there is QRM on the low frequency end), and then use the Hi Cut to control the width of the received passband - the K3 algorithms automatically take care of the center frequency. Yes, it can be a real challenge to adjust both the shift and width to obtain a good sounding signal - you must adjust shift if you change width in order to maintain intelligible copy. That is not a K3 limitation, but a limitation of our ears hearing human speech. There must be content in the 300 to 400 Hz range to maintain intelligibility - so you cannot cut the low end very much - OTOH, the high end may be cut drastically and still maintain intelligibility even though doing so removes some of the smoothness and naturalness from the voice. Secondly (on your background hiss problem), I suggest you read the "Noisy K3" article on my website www.w3fpr.com and adjust your AGC slope and threshold parameters in light of that article. I believe you went the wrong way with your AGC slope - the AGC settings are a personal preference, but do it with knowledge of what should happen with the various settings - my article tries to give you that information. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/11/2012 3:58 PM, Bill wrote: > I have only had the K3 for a few days and have already experienced a > couple of headaches from listening to hours and hours of SSB in rag > chews and nets on 75 meters. When compared to my trusty Kenwood TS-480, > the K3's receiver was far too harsh. > > I process the receive audio through a Behringer mixer panel and into a > pair of Behringer Ms40 speakers - hence, both radios get the exact same > chance at sounding really good. > > I did some research into the problem and read what other ops had done to > correct the problem. Then I applied those gleanings to my K3: > > I run the 2.7 filter open (full WIDTH) > I set the SHIFT to 1.3 (mellows things out a little) > The AGC SLP is set to 15 (this slayed the wow-wow dragon) > The AFX Delay at 2 (can change with the mood) > RX EQ: +3 +3 +2 0 +1 +1 +1 -1 (you can play with this forever) > > Now I have that wonderful Kenwood receive audio back. Couple that with > the arsenal of the K3's QRM/QRN tools afforded by the DSP and a 2.1 > filter - and I can hear through almost anything. I am impressed with the > K3 - it is a keeper - affording fine listening quality. > > There are two more receive dislikes I will be working at getting rid of: > > 1. General background hiss - which is more noticeable on the K3 than the > 480 (even using the ATT and reducing the RF Gain). I live in a quiet > rural location - it should be quieter than it is. > 2. The NOTCH (auto) - introduces an unpleasant variation to the signal - > specifically, a slight warble. > > I am open to suggestions and comments. > > Bill W2BLC > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] using XVerters with KX3
Greetings List !!! I have searched the e-mail archives concerning this topic but have not really found a lot of information about his yet. I am hoping that the KX3 will be as easy to interface as the K3 is especially around the software and frequency offsets. I know that the 2m KX3 transverter will be using the 6m band as an IF but the my 222 transverter I believe uses 10 meters so hoping that will still be supported. As to the hardware side doesn't look like there will be separate input and output for the transverter like there is in the K3.. is that correct ? So I guess you just have to make sure you turn the power down before hooking up a transverter sounds like. As much as i love my K3 the KX3 makes a lot more sense for me. I live in an antenna restricted area so the only way I can truly make sue of the K3 is outdoors. And while the K3 is portable the KX3 will obviously be more portable. So I will most likely be selling my K3/10 in order to purchase the KX3... unless Wayne as a trade in program hihi... I appreciate any responses about the transverter issues. Thanks Jon KG6VDW -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/using-XVerters-with-KX3-tp7276763p7276763.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
>what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. They are two different manufacturers of USB to Serial hardware ICs (chips). http://www.ftdichip.com/ http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/company.asp Besides the hardware, each manufacturer supplies royalty free software (device drivers) as part of the solution for PC operating systems such as Mac, Windows and Linux. At work I have long used FTDI chips in products we design. A customized version of the signed driver package supplied by FTDI for 32 and 64 bit Windows is incorporated into our own software distribution. Prolific is generally ok but lately they have been warning about counterfeit parts and USB to Serial Cables: http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?id=31 Bob NW8L __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Hopeless Confused - K3 and Digital Modes
Hello all, OK...I decided I need some help from people who have done this before. I know this is pretty long-winded and I'd be happy to take this off of the reflector if desired. I had planned on spending this weekend reconfiguring the shack but before I started adding cables, changing software configurations and K3 menu items I better get a plan in place. I want to explore operating digital modes on the HF bands. Primarily, I'm interested in RTTY and PSK. Right now, 90% of my operating is CW and a little SSB thrown in. DXing and contesting are my primary interests. I'm pretty computer savvy but my knowledge of digital modes and radio interfacing is limited to CW and N1MM/Logger32. I should note that during the HK0NA operation I did try using the K3 utility to work them on RTTY. I was able to receive OK but spend a LOT of time trying unsuccessfully to work them. I was able to transmit but I suspect I had something screwed up with mark/space tones in the K3 set-up. In the monitor of the K3 I heard "RTTY" tones but had no idea if they were the correct ones. This is what has finally spurred me to get all of this figured out. My current configuration consists of the following: *PC running XP Pro *1 serial port (currently connected directly to the K3 for CAT control) *1 parallel port (I used to use this port for CW keying of the K3. I just recently purchased a WK-USB to take over this task. *Multiple USB ports (1 being currently used for the WK-USB) *K3 w/sub-receiver *CW QSK using the WK-USB and either N1MM or Logger32 (see below) *When I operate SSB I use a Heil headset connected to the front panel through a Heil adapter and I use a foot switch for PTT connected to the K3 rear panel. WK-USB for CW keying and a paddle plugged into the WK-USB for sending by hand. For contesting I use N1MM. For day to day operation I use Logger32 for logging. I am leaning very heavily towards changing to DX Labsuite, however. All that said, I'm trying to figure out the highest performance solution for adding in digital modes, primarily RTTY but also sound-card modes like PSK. I've been to countless web sites, reviewed postings on this and other forums and the more I read the more I am confused with which way to proceed. I like the idea of using a separate sound-card so that the integrated sound-card in my PC can be used with pair of speakers for normal computer tasks. I thought about buying a Signalink USB for the separate sound-card but the more I look at this if I ever want to use the sub receiver on the K3 for RTTY, I'm only 1/2 way there...I would need to buy a second Signalink USB USB for the sub receiver. To do this I would need to run separate instances of, MTTY I believe?? I also thought about going the MicroHam/Rigblaster route but before I spend hundreds of dollars and still not know if this is a complete solution I thought I'd seek some advice. Then I thought about buying two USB sound-cards with one going to each receiver. A quick look on Amazon shows these ranging in cost from less than $1.00 (yes, I saw one for $0.48 today) to over $100. And then the whole topic of how to best place the K3 into transmit has me very confused. Do I build a RS-232 interface box like the one W3YY describes at http://w3yy.com/fsk.htm ? This would allow FSK RTTY operation too which I understand is the best way to go but then I've got the problem of needing an additional RS232 port on my computer. I also thought I could press my old parallel-port interface (that I used to use for CW keying of the K3) to perform the PTT task but I don't know if this is supported by the software applications above (N1MM, Logger32/DXLabsuite). This is probably the area I'm most confused about. I figure someone out there must be using the same radio, software combinations I do and has already figured this out. Again, thanks in advance for your guidance. -- 73, Gary K9GS Check out K9NS on the web: http://www.k9ns.com Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and K2 simultaneous on serial to USB cables to computer
I installed a Manhattan dual port serial PCI card in my W7 64 bit PC built by local guys still too young to shave. Both the K2 (with a modified cable) and the K3 (direct 232 cable)) working great into the serial ports. Given the problem with USB adapters sometimes working, then failing etc this was the way to go for me. 73. Ron -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-and-K2-simultaneous-on-serial-to-USB-cables-to-computer-tp7272705p7276722.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
The biggest problem I've seen lately is there were counterfeit Prolific chips found and the latest drivers from Prolific disable the counterfeit chips (for good reasons). They both work OK if you have the proper drivers. On Sat, 11 Feb 2012, roncasa wrote: > It really begs the question for some us who do not understand or are not > computer geeks: > > what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. > > We understand each one behaving (responding) differently with software > to radio control, and that some don't work at all, I do not understand > what makes one preferred over the other (such as elecraft serial/usb > adaptor cable) > Prolific also works with most stuff too. > For example, are they "platform" related? (micr0$oft) > Is this akin to "ordinary" DVD player as opposed to a "blue ray" player > that can play "both"?? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Taming the SSB receive dragon
I have only had the K3 for a few days and have already experienced a couple of headaches from listening to hours and hours of SSB in rag chews and nets on 75 meters. When compared to my trusty Kenwood TS-480, the K3's receiver was far too harsh. I process the receive audio through a Behringer mixer panel and into a pair of Behringer Ms40 speakers - hence, both radios get the exact same chance at sounding really good. I did some research into the problem and read what other ops had done to correct the problem. Then I applied those gleanings to my K3: I run the 2.7 filter open (full WIDTH) I set the SHIFT to 1.3 (mellows things out a little) The AGC SLP is set to 15 (this slayed the wow-wow dragon) The AFX Delay at 2 (can change with the mood) RX EQ: +3 +3 +2 0 +1 +1 +1 -1 (you can play with this forever) Now I have that wonderful Kenwood receive audio back. Couple that with the arsenal of the K3's QRM/QRN tools afforded by the DSP and a 2.1 filter - and I can hear through almost anything. I am impressed with the K3 - it is a keeper - affording fine listening quality. There are two more receive dislikes I will be working at getting rid of: 1. General background hiss - which is more noticeable on the K3 than the 480 (even using the ATT and reducing the RF Gain). I live in a quiet rural location - it should be quieter than it is. 2. The NOTCH (auto) - introduces an unpleasant variation to the signal - specifically, a slight warble. I am open to suggestions and comments. Bill W2BLC -- Sent from my blackboard - written in chalk __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
It really begs the question for some us who do not understand or are not computer geeks: what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. We understand each one behaving (responding) differently with software to radio control, and that some don't work at all, I do not understand what makes one preferred over the other (such as elecraft serial/usb adaptor cable) Prolific also works with most stuff too. For example, are they "platform" related? (micr0$oft) Is this akin to "ordinary" DVD player as opposed to a "blue ray" player that can play "both"?? 72 Ron, wb1hga __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Second Antenna Port
I too am used to having multiple antenna ports built into the radio and use this to advantage in various situations. I too have no use for an antenna tuner as I use only resonant antennas. It seems there are three options... 1) live with it as is and use outboard switching :-( (2) Give in and add the antenna tuner :-( (3) Make your own solution* :-|, perhaps with help from Elecraft :-) ? * Looking at the schematics, it appears it would be possible to add the control circuitry from the KAT3 to the KANT3 as well as K18 to give ant1/ant2 (K19 too for those with a sub). It seems one could do this and tell the K3 it has KAT3 and then set the tuner to off and use ant1/ant2. Maybe Elecraft would sell a KAT3 bare board or better a bare board and the handful of parts (KAT3 minus tuner parts) and users could roll their own (a kit)? This would allow those of us who are used to this from other radios and like it without negatively impacting Elecraft's normal mfg process and sales (a win-win). Sell us one more kit from parts already in stock. 73, Tim K9TM, KP2TM K3-100, K3-10, KPA500, XV144, XV222, XV432 On Feb 7, 2012, at 8:44 PM, Mike Greenway wrote: I have asked Elecraft several time about giving the option of a second antenna port without having to buy an antenna tuner but so far nothing. I have had a FT1000MP for over 15 years and never used the internal tuner so don’t see me needing one in the K3. The hole is already there for the connector so just need a mod on the ANT Relay board. I know I could put an outboard switch on the outside but I would like to put 6 M on one of the ports and with the outboard switch that make 2 extra connectors in the line. Having the antenna switch inside the radio is a lot more elegant and efficient. Having to pay for the antenna tuner just to get a second port goes against my miserly grain. Having the 2 ports without having to buy the antenna tuner would be a nice selling point for Elecraft I would think. Wonder if anyone has ever tried to install the second antenna port by mod’ing the antenna relay board? I have my asbestos suit on. 73 Mike K4PI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX3 Amplifier Interface
Apologies if this topic has been covered previously. I have a Tokyo Hy-Power HL45B amplifier that I would like to use with my KX3 when it arrives. This little 40 watt amp is designed to be keyed and to track band changes via a DIN cable to a Yaesu FT-817 accessory port. Band changes are handled by sensing a voltage (0 - 4 volts) supplied by the FT-817. (See voltage table in the FT-817 manual Appendix.) My question is what kind of linear amp interface does the KX3 have? I assume it offers a connection to key the amp, but wonder if it provides an interface for supplying band change info to the amp. If so, can it be made to supply voltages to emulate an FT-817? I use the HL-45B with my Flex-1500 (without band tacking capability) and it does a nice job. However, it takes extra candle power on my part to push the right band button before I key up. Thanks and 73, Lyn - KC8I __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] serial to USB
I have zero serial ports on the computer in my shack. I use Elecrafts Serial/USB converter for one connection, Another FTDI unit I bought on Amazon for the other and piggy back my SteppIR controller with a Y cable to the main rig/computer interface. I have no issues at all. I'm quite happy with the way they work. I've used a lot of Serial to USB converters since serial ports started disappearing and these FTDI ones seem to work just fine. Message: 23 Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 06:38:39 -0800 (PST) From: KM4VX Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and K2 simultaneous on serial to USB cables tocomputer To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: <1328971119147-7276097.p...@n2.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Many thanks for the helpful suggestions on and off-line. Given all the problems with Serial to USB adapters I am going to install serial PCI cards in my PC and then connect the correctly wired cable from the K2 (I understand it is not a true RS232 port on the K2) to a new serial port on the PC. I may do the same with my K3 rather than use the Elecradft Serial to USB cable, which actually works well. 73. Ron Libby and John www.TheRollingHome.com Ft Clark Springs, Brackettville, TX No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons were inconvenienced __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] NAQCC Sprint Tuesday night!
NAQCC Sprint Tuesday night! Our February sprint is this coming Tuesday evening local time (Feb 14, EST - 8:30-10:30PM, CST - 7:30-9:30PM, MST - 6:30-8:30PM, PST - 5:30-7:30PM), which translates as Wednesday Feb 15, 0130-0330Z in all cases. I will refer you to the proper URL: http://naqcc.info/sprint201202.html There you will find all the details as to time, frequencies and other important information. Certificates: SWA (simple wire antennas) certificates by call area, VE and DX. A Certificate for top score in the GAIN antenna category. Finally there is one more award - a certificate to the highest score from a first-time participant. Prizes: A prize of a set of bug/paddle handles or a K1/K2 knob insert donated by master woodworker Gregg WB8LZG is awarded for each sprint to the winner of a random drawing among all participants. Previous winners are not eligible. This is a monthly event that caters to the CW veteran, the CW newcomer, straight key and bug fans. All are welcome to participate (this includes QRO); but you must use QRP power levels to compete for awards. If you are not already a member of NAQCC... membership is FREE! Now is your chance to join the largest QRP CW Club in the world!! We currently have 5,880+ members in: All 50 States - 9 VE Provinces - 90 Countries. Just sign up on the NAQCC website (http://naqcc.info/) and you will receive a handsome certificate, with your membership number which is good for life. A great way to start the New Year!! Come join us and have a real good time! 72/73 de Dave VA3RJ NAQCC #0004 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA BRacket and top cover
Yes Chuck. Mine does the same thing. T thought loosing the side a bit might make it "pop" back flush and then retighten the screws but that didn't help. Your right, it does detract a bit cosmetically from the amp (which is a great product) I now have my month old KPA500 interfaced with my day old K3. Nice combination. John KE4D K3 SN 6226 KPA500 SN 636 Brackettville, TX Message: 17 Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 18:54:43 -0800 (PST) From: Chuck - AE4CW Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 Z Bracket & Top Cover To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: <1328928883022-7275169.p...@n2.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Just finished a KPA500 build and all went smoothly. The only issue I see is that the Z-Bracket appears to be about 1mm taller at the front than at the rear. The result is that the top cover protrudes above the front panel in the center by a small amount, perhaps 1mm. At the rear the top cover is flush with the rear panel in the center...no protrusion at all. This is a cosmetic issue but does detract a bit for the "fit and finish" of the rest of the KPA500 and the K3. Has anyone else seen this issue? Thought I would ask before calling home. --- Chuck, AE4CW Libby and John www.TheRollingHome.com Ft Clark Springs, Brackettville, TX No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons were inconvenienced __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Z Bracket & Top Cover
Mine bows up very slightly in the middle, but it is not objectionable. This must be normal. Roy Morris W4WFB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Z Bracket & Top Cover
Tim, That's not the same issue - top of my Z-bracket (at the front only) is flush with the outside face of the top of the front panel, so the top panel is pushed up by its own thickness, and cannot be pushed down. ~iain / N6ML On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 8:04 AM, K9TM wrote: > > I noticed this but didn't let it bother me. I just looked again and if I > push down on the top cover, it goes down flush or a little below flush. I > wouldn't say that the z-bracket is the problem (if there is a problem). I > didn't take the top cover off to see how possible this is but my initial > suggestion (if anything were to be done) would be to add another screw closer > to the front panel or to move the existing hole forward closer to the front > cover. At least on my unit, SN49, this would make it flush. This is not an > issue on the rear because of the tab and screw that holds the tab down. > > I guess someone may suggest some really really thin but really really sticky > tape to hold this down without any screws but I wouldn't do that. If the > case stuck up high enough that I could see inside the amp (under the cover), > it would bother me but as is as long as it keeps putting out the appropriate > amount of watts... I'm more than satisfied as is! > > 73, Tim K9TM, KP2TM > > On Feb 10, 2012, at 10:55 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote: > > On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 6:54 PM, Chuck - AE4CW wrote: >> Just finished a KPA500 build and all went smoothly. The only issue I see is >> that the Z-Bracket appears to be about 1mm taller at the front than at the >> rear. The result is that the top cover protrudes above the front panel in >> the center by a small amount, perhaps 1mm. At the rear the top cover is >> flush with the rear panel in the center...no protrusion at all. This is a >> cosmetic issue but does detract a bit for the "fit and finish" of the rest >> of the KPA500 and the K3. >> >> Has anyone else seen this issue? Thought I would ask before calling home. > > Yes, I have exactly the same issue, but I don't have a solution. It > hasn't bothered me enough to pursue it with support, but I couldn't > see any way that it could have been caused by incorrect assembly, so > it must be a malformed Z-bracket. > > Let me know if you find a solution! > > ~iain / N6ML > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Z Bracket & Top Cover
I noticed this but didn't let it bother me. I just looked again and if I push down on the top cover, it goes down flush or a little below flush. I wouldn't say that the z-bracket is the problem (if there is a problem). I didn't take the top cover off to see how possible this is but my initial suggestion (if anything were to be done) would be to add another screw closer to the front panel or to move the existing hole forward closer to the front cover. At least on my unit, SN49, this would make it flush. This is not an issue on the rear because of the tab and screw that holds the tab down. I guess someone may suggest some really really thin but really really sticky tape to hold this down without any screws but I wouldn't do that. If the case stuck up high enough that I could see inside the amp (under the cover), it would bother me but as is as long as it keeps putting out the appropriate amount of watts... I'm more than satisfied as is! 73, Tim K9TM, KP2TM On Feb 10, 2012, at 10:55 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote: On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 6:54 PM, Chuck - AE4CW wrote: > Just finished a KPA500 build and all went smoothly. The only issue I see is > that the Z-Bracket appears to be about 1mm taller at the front than at the > rear. The result is that the top cover protrudes above the front panel in > the center by a small amount, perhaps 1mm. At the rear the top cover is > flush with the rear panel in the center...no protrusion at all. This is a > cosmetic issue but does detract a bit for the "fit and finish" of the rest > of the KPA500 and the K3. > > Has anyone else seen this issue? Thought I would ask before calling home. Yes, I have exactly the same issue, but I don't have a solution. It hasn't bothered me enough to pursue it with support, but I couldn't see any way that it could have been caused by incorrect assembly, so it must be a malformed Z-bracket. Let me know if you find a solution! ~iain / N6ML __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 PWR ADJ Figures
David, I don't think I would use the figures other folks suggest. There are too many variables involved; watt meter accuracy, the accuracy of your dummy load and your line voltage would be the first three variables I can think of. Elecraft can set the power adjustment at the factory, but that also doesn't take into account the conditions at YOUR operating environment. If you don't have a dummy load and watt meter, borrow one from a friend. Knowing that the calibration was done in your environment will give you some satisfaction. 73, Tom Amateur Radio Operator N5GE ARRL Lifetime Member QCWA Lifetime Member "Only the white eyes would believe they could cut the top off a blanket, sew it to the bottom and have a longer blanket." -- American Indian comment about Daylight Saving Time -- On Fri, 10 Feb 2012 21:20:15 + (UTC), dpop...@comcast.net wrote: >Lets try this again. Out of the more than 600 + KPA500 owners I would think I >could get some information from more than 1 guy in Elecraft land. > >Here is what I want to know. > >If you have a factory assembled KPA500, what is the PWR ADJ number per band as >shown in the menu under "PWR ADJ"? Since Elecraft should have calibrated the >watt meter at the factory and they don't the kits, this would give me a good >reference point to calibrate a kit . > >If you built a kit and calibrated your watt meter with a known source, then >what is the PWR ADJ number per band ? > >73 >David KC8IV >__ [snip] __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and K2 simultaneous on serial to USB cables tocomputer
Many thanks for the helpful suggestions on and off-line. Given all the problems with Serial to USB adapters I am going to install serial PCI cards in my PC and then connect the correctly wired cable from the K2 (I understand it is not a true RS232 port on the K2) to a new serial port on the PC. I may do the same with my K3 rather than use the Elecradft Serial to USB cable, which actually works well. 73. Ron -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-and-K2-simultaneous-on-serial-to-USB-cables-to-computer-tp7272705p7276097.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Normal KPA500 behavior?
Just a note about a situation I discovered after assembling my KPA500. It is very easy to snag the fan voltage wires at the rear of the KPA500 when installing the rear panel if you're not careful. If it happens it will unplug the power to the fan. It happened to me, but I noticed the heat rising right away and corrected it. You have to be careful that you don't snag those wires during the rear panel installation. I don't think that is your problem, but thought I might mention it. 73, Tom Amateur Radio Operator N5GE ARRL Lifetime Member QCWA Lifetime Member "Only the white eyes would believe they could cut the top off a blanket, sew it to the bottom and have a longer blanket." -- American Indian comment about Daylight Saving Time -- On Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:51:26 -0800, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote: >On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 11:28 AM, Mike Walsh wrote: >> My KPA500 does a couple of things that seem a bit odd. Other KPA owners - >> do your KPAs also do the following? >> >> 1) When I transmit a 500 watt carrier while displaying TEMP the displayed >> temperature drops 5 degrees C. When I release the key the temperature goes >> immediately back to the real value. Lower transmit power levels cause a >> correspondingly lower drop in displayed temp. This behavior causes the temp >> display to bounce around while transmitting CW. > >This does NOT sound normal, and is something I think you should worry >about right away. If the temp sensor is not functioning correctly, you >could cause damage by not having the fans engage at the appropriate >speeds, and over-temp protection mechanisms could fail to be invoked. > >Suggest contacting Elecraft support for guidance on this... > >~iain / N6ML [snip] __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Z Bracket & Top Cover
Hi Chuck, Yes I have exactly the same issue with my KPA500. 73 Roger MW0IDX On 11/02/2012 02:54, Chuck - AE4CW wrote: > Just finished a KPA500 build and all went smoothly. The only issue I see is > that the Z-Bracket appears to be about 1mm taller at the front than at the > rear. The result is that the top cover protrudes above the front panel in > the center by a small amount, perhaps 1mm. At the rear the top cover is > flush with the rear panel in the center...no protrusion at all. This is a > cosmetic issue but does detract a bit for the "fit and finish" of the rest > of the KPA500 and the K3. > > Has anyone else seen this issue? Thought I would ask before calling home. > --- > Chuck, AE4CW > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
