[Elecraft] WRTC 2014 - Congratulations, Elecraft!

[Rick Tavan N6XI]

The official tally of rigs used by the 59 M/2 teams at WRTC 2014 in New
England includes 75 K3s out of 118 rigs, 63.6%. Way to go, gang!

/Rick

-- 
Rick Tavan N6XI
Truckee, CA
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[Elecraft] FS: KXPD3 paddles

[Rick Dettinger]

Paddles sold.

Thanks,
Rick
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Re: [Elecraft] Kit Ideas

[Don Wilhelm]

Richard,

To my mind, "keying" is for CW, and a microphone is for voice modes.
So what do you want?  A microphone to produce CW with the KX3 (paddles 
are easier to implement), or a microphone with PTT?  If you want a 
microphone, look into the MH3, it is designed for the purpose.


Certainly other microphones can be made to work, but you will likely 
have to build an adapter.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/23/2014 9:19 AM, Richard E Neese wrote:
I would like to see Elecraft take either the k2 or kx3 and turn it 
into a backpack unit.


case and all  we need more lightweight field pack style radio.

I am currently designing a case to move my kx3 to with space for a 
battery.


the only issue I have thus far is due to the cables and the output 
from the bard having to add in right angle plugs and find a way to 
secure them when in the field.


I am keeping the kx3 in its case this is a drop down in case. that has 
the antenna mount on it and thus forth.


also is there a generic mic that would work withthe kx3 just for 
keying. I dont need the up and down right now...

?


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[Elecraft] N8LP Tuning Relay success

[Hunsdon Cary III]

Dick, Jim, & Pete (W4WWQ):  
Thanks for your help.  N8LP Tuning Relay now working as advertised.
The “Interrupter” was key to getting it to work and once, with the help of Dick 
& Pete, I figured the phono plug on the K3 belonged on the Key Out jack and not 
the PTT jack, 
it works perfectly.  As Dick explained, the KPA500 will not switch from Operate 
to Standby but there is no power output and no LED’s are lighting 
up while the SteppIR is tuning - this is one slick little box!
 Again, thanks for your help!
73,
Cary, K4TM
Lynchburg VA

K3-100 #3448, KPA500 #0698, SteppIR 3-element @ 42'


On Jul 22, 2014, at 10:33 PM, Jim N7US  wrote:

> Do you have the cable that goes between the K3 and the KPA500?  If so, a 
> 15-pin gender changer with yellow tape around it should have been included.  
> Look in the manual for "interrupter."  It has pin 10 removed, which I 
> think/believe is the PTT for the KPA500.  By using the interrupter you will 
> have to key the amplifier with the connection you now have through the N8LP 
> relay (I have one too, but I use it to prevent my 87A, my second amplifier, 
> from transmitting when the antenna is tuning.)
>  
> Here, I found it on page 20:
>  
> 
>  
> 73, Jim N7US
>  
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: H. Cary [mailto:h3c...@gmail.com] 
> Sent: July 22, 2014 21:09
> To: Jim N7US
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N8LP Tuning Relay w/ K3/KPA500 - help, please
>  
> I'm not sure what you mean by "small interrupter," Jim
> Tnx 4 your prompt response!
> 73,
> Cary
>  
> Sent from my iPhone in Lynchburg VA.
>  
> > On Jul 22, 2014, at 9:49 PM, "Jim N7US"  wrote:
> >
> > Cary,
> >
> > I think it will work as you want if you use the small interrupter
> > between the end of the cable from the K3 where it attaches to the KPA500.
> >
> > 73, Jim N7US
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> >
> >
> > Elecraft Reflector participants:
> > If any of y'all use the N8LP tuning relay w/ your K3 and KPA500, I
> > appreciate your help.
> > My kit went together smoothly and all ohm meter checks A-OK. When I
> > plug the relay into the SteppIR control box the green light comes on.
> > I have RCA phono plug cable running from the PTT connection on the
> > relay to the PTT In connector on K3 and another from the PA Key on Amp
> > to the LOOP plug on Relay box.
> > When I key PTT while SteppIR is tuning, KPA500 does not switch to
> > standby as I believe it should.
> > Obviously I'm doing something wrong.  I even tried the Key Out
> > connection on the K3 but that didn't work either.
> > Any thoughts would be appreciated!
> > 73,
> > Cary, K4TM
> > Lynchburg VA
> > H. Cary III
> > h3c...@gmail.com
> >
> >

H. Cary III
h3c...@gmail.com



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[Elecraft] LDG AT 200 ATU for sale.

[Mike Weir]

I have an AT 200 pro auto tuner for sale it's in great shape and I was 
using it until I purchased an internal tuner for my K3 rig. Cost is 200.00 
Canadian (185.00 U.S) 
Mike  Weir
VE3WDM
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

[Hjalmar Duklæt]

I use the technique with the rubber band and change filter board in 5 minutes 
from I start to unscrew the first screw of the top cover. 
73 de Hal/la4xx
K1 2929

On 14-07-23 19:12, Mike Morrow   wrote:
> 
> >> Changing band modules is a special pain for me 
> >> because installed the onboard tuner (which is 
> >> rarely used) into my K//1/
> 
> > The band module resides under the ATU board making 
> > such changes something not done without some 
> > strong motive.
> 
> Tom/N0SS described 14 years ago a simple technique that
> makes a filter board change when the KAT1 is installed
> much easier. He cut two segments from a thin rubber band
> and placed them inside the spacers that separate the KAT1
> and KFL1. He threaded the screw coming out below the KAT1
> PCB into each spacer with rubber strip in it. That keeps
> the otherwise loose spacers in place on the screw threads
> as the screws are turned during KAT1 removal/replacement
> for subsequent KFL1 swaps.
> 
> The K1 MCU remembers the frequency display calibration for
> each band that was set by OFS, using a new KFL1 requires only
> loosening the two KAT1 PCB screws, removing the KAT1 (the
> KAT1-KFL1 spacers will now remain on the screw threads as the
> KAT1 is pulled off), swapping the KFL1, replacing the KAT1,
> installing the K1 top cover, and assigning b1 and b2 to the
> new bands.
> 
> OK...so it's *still* a bit of a pain. But not having to mess
> with those two PCB spacers below the KAT1 is *major* improvement!
> 
> Mike / KK5F
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

[Don Wilhelm]

I am aware of the "rubber band trick", but I find no difficulty at all 
in plugging the KAT1 even with loose standoffs.

First place the standoffs so they are close to the holes in the board.
Next (and most important) put the long screws through the KAT1 board - 
hold them down with your fingers or thumbs.
Now eyeball the top of the standoffs with the end of the screws and 
insert the screws a bit into the standoffs.
Since the screws contact the standoffs before the connector pins come 
close to their mates, you can now align the connectors and push them home.
Wiggle the screws a little bit to get them to drop into the holes on the 
KFL1 board and tighten them - job done.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/23/2014 1:12 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:

Changing band modules is a special pain for me
because installed the onboard tuner (which is
rarely used) into my K//1/

The band module resides under the ATU board making
such changes something not done without some
strong motive.

Tom/N0SS described 14 years ago a simple technique that
makes a filter board change when the KAT1 is installed
much easier.  He cut two segments from a thin rubber band
and placed them inside the spacers that separate the KAT1
and KFL1.  He threaded the screw coming out below the KAT1
PCB into each spacer with rubber strip in it.  That keeps
the otherwise loose spacers in place on the screw threads
as the screws are turned during KAT1 removal/replacement
for subsequent KFL1 swaps.

The K1 MCU remembers the frequency display calibration for
each band that was set by OFS, using a new KFL1 requires only
loosening the two KAT1 PCB screws, removing the KAT1 (the
KAT1-KFL1 spacers will now remain on the screw threads as the
KAT1 is pulled off), swapping the KFL1, replacing the KAT1,
installing the K1 top cover, and assigning b1 and b2 to the
new bands.

OK...so it's *still* a bit of a pain.  But not having to mess
with those two PCB spacers below the KAT1 is *major* improvement!




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Re: [Elecraft] Turning off list mail

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

This comes from the message headers on every message to the list:

List-Unsubscribe: ,


The mailto: link is quick and painless, unless your E-Mail redirected 
from some other address (like an arrl.net address).


There is always more than one way to get off a mailing list.

On 7/23/2014 8:41 AM, Joseph Robertson wrote:
 *Can someone direct me to how to turn off list mail? *
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Re: [Elecraft] Turning off list mail

[Rick M0LEP]

On Wed 23 Jul Joseph Robertson wrote:
> *Can someone direct me to how to turn off list mail? *

1) Go to http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

2) Look down near the end of the page for a field with a button saying 
   "Unsubscribe or edit options" and enter the email address your list 
   email goes to, then click the button.

3) That'll take you to a page where it asks for your password (and gives 
   youthe option of a reminder). Enter your password and click "Log in".

4) Assuming you got the password correct then you'll be taken to a page
   with a whole bunch of options. A little way down there's a section
   headed "Your Elecraft Subscription Options". The very first one is
   "Mail Delivery", and you can enable or disable it there.

5) Click "Submit My Changes" at the end of the page, and then "Log out".

and you're done.

-- 
... 73, Rick, M0LEP   (KX3 #3281)
A tagline:  "Go not unto Usenet for advice, for the denizens will say
both yes, and no, and maybe, and I don't know, and f*** off, and"
-- [Unknown net.wit]

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

[Mike Morrow]

>> Changing band modules is a special pain for me 
>> because installed the onboard tuner (which is 
>> rarely used) into my K//1/

> The band module resides under the ATU board making 
> such changes something not done without some 
> strong motive.

Tom/N0SS described 14 years ago a simple technique that
makes a filter board change when the KAT1 is installed
much easier.  He cut two segments from a thin rubber band
and placed them inside the spacers that separate the KAT1
and KFL1.  He threaded the screw coming out below the KAT1
PCB into each spacer with rubber strip in it.  That keeps
the otherwise loose spacers in place on the screw threads
as the screws are turned during KAT1 removal/replacement
for subsequent KFL1 swaps.

The K1 MCU remembers the frequency display calibration for
each band that was set by OFS, using a new KFL1 requires only
loosening the two KAT1 PCB screws, removing the KAT1 (the
KAT1-KFL1 spacers will now remain on the screw threads as the
KAT1 is pulled off), swapping the KFL1, replacing the KAT1,
installing the K1 top cover, and assigning b1 and b2 to the
new bands.

OK...so it's *still* a bit of a pain.  But not having to mess
with those two PCB spacers below the KAT1 is *major* improvement!

Mike / KK5F
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[Elecraft] Turning off list mail

[Joseph Robertson]

*To subscribe to the list, or to change your subscription options (like set
mail delivery to 'off'), click here for the Options page.
 *


*After clicking on the link above I noticed that there is no option ( like
set mail delivery to 'off),*

*Can someone direct me to how to turn off list mail? *

*73' Joe KG7DTF*
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

[Phil Wheeler]

Curt,

All you say rings true. And this is an especially 
important point:


/Changing band modules is a special pain for me 
because installed the onboard tuner (which is 
rarely used) into my K//1/


The band module resides under the ATU board making 
such changes something not done without some 
strong motive. If I had the original two-band K1, 
vs. having the 40/30/20/15 model you have, it 
would satisfy 95% of my operating needs.


Phil W7OX

On 7/23/14, 6:09 AM, Curt wrote:
Oh well, all good things eventually end.  Kit 
building in the conventional sense is probably a 
declining interest anyway. Having built both 
thru-hole and SMT radios (ATS-3B), probably 
enjoy building about as much as operating.


Am thankful to have built a K1-4 (40/30/20/15) 
several years ago, also two-band boards for 
80/17 and 12/10.
People who like to build ought to get a K1-2, 
K2, or KX1 before they all disappear due to 
parts availability issues.


Have never owned a KX1, but for me the K1 is 
pretty much the ultimate QRP radio.  90% of my 
operation is on 20M,  remainder mostly 40M, with 
solar cycle 15M has been fun too but in another 
two years that will be over.  30M has been used 
maybe twice.  A 2-band radio would certainly 
fill my needs. Changing band modules is a 
special pain for me because installed the 
onboard tuner (which is rarely used) into my K1 
.  The extra boards have spent most of their 
lives in the desk drawer.


I would think a K1-2 for 40 (or 30) and 20 would 
still be a very good choice for anyone wanting a 
good performing full-featured QRP radio for home 
and/or portable.


Curt KB5JO


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[Elecraft] Kit Ideas

[Richard E Neese]

I would like to see Elecraft take either the k2 or kx3 and turn it into 
a backpack unit.


case and all  we need more lightweight field pack style radio.

I am currently designing a case to move my kx3 to with space for a battery.

the only issue I have thus far is due to the cables and the output from 
the bard having to add in right angle plugs and find a way to secure 
them when in the field.


I am keeping the kx3 in its case this is a drop down in case. that has 
the antenna mount on it and thus forth.


also is there a generic mic that would work withthe kx3 just for keying. 
I dont need the up and down right now...

?



---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection 
is active.
http://www.avast.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

[Curt]

Oh well, all good things eventually end.  Kit building in the conventional 
sense is probably a declining interest anyway. Having built both thru-hole 
and SMT radios (ATS-3B), probably enjoy building about as much as operating.


Am thankful to have built a K1-4 (40/30/20/15) several years ago, also 
two-band boards for 80/17 and 12/10.
People who like to build ought to get a K1-2, K2, or KX1 before they all 
disappear due to parts availability issues.


Have never owned a KX1, but for me the K1 is pretty much the ultimate QRP 
radio.  90% of my operation is on 20M,  remainder mostly 40M, with solar 
cycle 15M has been fun too but in another two years that will be over.  30M 
has been used maybe twice.  A 2-band radio would certainly fill my needs. 
Changing band modules is a special pain for me because installed the onboard 
tuner (which is rarely used) into my K1 .  The extra boards have spent most 
of their lives in the desk drawer.


I would think a K1-2 for 40 (or 30) and 20 would still be a very good choice 
for anyone wanting a good performing full-featured QRP radio for home and/or 
portable.


Curt KB5JO 



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Re: [Elecraft] N8LP Tuning Relay w/ K3/KPA500 - help, please

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Cary,

Be careful. Until you get this figured out you can damage your antenna by
pumping high power into it during tuning. I suggest that you switch to a
dummy load while you are experimenting.

You said you have the phono cable running from the relay to the PTT In
connector on the K3. *This is NOT correct.* You want to run the cable from
the KEY OUT connector on the K3 to the N8LP relay. 

Next you will have to use the key interruptor on the 15 pin cable as others
have advised.

Finally the KPA500 will not go into Standby. It will stay in Operate but it
will just sit there. It won't operate because there is no permissive signal.

And one last thought. Make sure you have adjusted the pot on the N8LP relay
such that the red LED lights when the SteppIR is tuning.

73,
Mike K2MK



Hunsdon Cary III wrote
> Elecraft Reflector participants:
> If any of y’all use the N8LP tuning relay w/ your K3 and KPA500, I
> appreciate your help.
> My kit went together smoothly and all ohm meter checks A-OK. When I plug
> the relay into the SteppIR control box the green light comes on.
> I have RCA phono plug cable running from the PTT connection on the relay
> to the PTT In connector on K3 and another from the PA Key on Amp to the
> LOOP plug on Relay box.
> When I key PTT while SteppIR is tuning, KPA500 does not switch to standby
> as I believe it should.
> Obviously I’m doing something wrong.  I even tried the Key Out connection
> on the K3 but that didn’t work either.
> Any thoughts would be appreciated!
> 73,
> Cary, K4TM





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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/N8LP-Tuning-Relay-w-K3-KPA500-help-please-tp7591510p7591520.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] OT: Price Drop - current production Vibroplex Blue Racer Key

[Jim's Desktop]

One & only price drop on the Vibroplex Blue Racer bug I listed several 
days ago - it's just over a year old and was purchased at Dayton last 
year for almost $230.  It has the blue base and jeweled pivot bearings.  
I'll include an extra weight to help slow it down below 20 wpm if 
desired.


It has become surplus to my needs here and I'm willing to let it go for 
$170 shipped anywhere in the U.S. lower 48.


USPS Money Order or PayPal accepted.

High resolution pictures are available by email on request but this key 
is a 9 out of 10 with a minor scratch on the label (there when I got 
it).  Serial number is 400,020.


Anyone interested, please email me off list and first email (by 
date/time sent) gets right of first refusal.


Jim Sheldon - W0EB
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Re: [Elecraft] N8LP Tuning Relay w/ K3/KPA500 - help, please

[Dick Dievendorff]

When you interrupt the amplifier key line, the amplifier doesn't visibly
switch from operate to standby. The amp doesn't provide gain unless the
amplifier is in Operate AND the key line is pulled low.

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of H.
Cary
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 5:32 AM
To: Jim N7US
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N8LP Tuning Relay w/ K3/KPA500 - help, please

Jim:
I found my "interrupter" and, yes, pin 10 had been removed - I installed it.
Unfortunately, my amp still doesn't switch to "standby" when transmitting
while SteppIR is tuning.  
Headed to Richmond Va for the day, I'll get back to it this evening!
Tnx for your help!
73,
Cary, K4TM
Lynchburg VA

Sent from my iPhone in Lynchburg VA.

> On Jul 22, 2014, at 10:33 PM, "Jim N7US"  wrote:
> 
> Do you have the cable that goes between the K3 and the KPA500?  If so, 
> a 15-pin gender changer with yellow tape around it should have been 
> included.  Look in the manual for "interrupter."  It has pin 10 
> removed, which I think/believe is the PTT for the KPA500.  By using 
> the interrupter you will have to key the amplifier with the connection 
> you now have through the N8LP relay (I have one too, but I use it to 
> prevent my 87A, my second amplifier, from transmitting when the 
> antenna is tuning.)
>  
> Here, I found it on page 20:
>  
> 
>  
> 73, Jim N7US
>  
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: H. Cary [mailto:h3c...@gmail.com]
> Sent: July 22, 2014 21:09
> To: Jim N7US
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N8LP Tuning Relay w/ K3/KPA500 - help, please
>  
> I'm not sure what you mean by "small interrupter," Jim
> Tnx 4 your prompt response!
> 73,
> Cary
>  
> Sent from my iPhone in Lynchburg VA.
>  
> > On Jul 22, 2014, at 9:49 PM, "Jim N7US"  wrote:
> >
> > Cary,
> >
> > I think it will work as you want if you use the small interrupter 
> > between the end of the cable from the K3 where it attaches to the
KPA500.
> >
> > 73, Jim N7US
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> >
> >
> > Elecraft Reflector participants:
> > If any of y'all use the N8LP tuning relay w/ your K3 and KPA500, I 
> > appreciate your help.
> > My kit went together smoothly and all ohm meter checks A-OK. When I 
> > plug the relay into the SteppIR control box the green light comes on.
> > I have RCA phono plug cable running from the PTT connection on the 
> > relay to the PTT In connector on K3 and another from the PA Key on 
> > Amp to the LOOP plug on Relay box.
> > When I key PTT while SteppIR is tuning, KPA500 does not switch to 
> > standby as I believe it should.
> > Obviously I'm doing something wrong.  I even tried the Key Out 
> > connection on the K3 but that didn't work either.
> > Any thoughts would be appreciated!
> > 73,
> > Cary, K4TM
> > Lynchburg VA
> > H. Cary III
> > h3c...@gmail.com
> >
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] N8LP Tuning Relay w/ K3/KPA500 - help, please

[H. Cary]

Jim:
I found my "interrupter" and, yes, pin 10 had been removed - I installed it. 
Unfortunately, my amp still doesn't switch to "standby" when transmitting while 
SteppIR is tuning.  
Headed to Richmond Va for the day, I'll get back to it this evening!
Tnx for your help!
73,
Cary, K4TM
Lynchburg VA

Sent from my iPhone in Lynchburg VA.

> On Jul 22, 2014, at 10:33 PM, "Jim N7US"  wrote:
> 
> Do you have the cable that goes between the K3 and the KPA500?  If so, a 
> 15-pin gender changer with yellow tape around it should have been included.  
> Look in the manual for "interrupter."  It has pin 10 removed, which I 
> think/believe is the PTT for the KPA500.  By using the interrupter you will 
> have to key the amplifier with the connection you now have through the N8LP 
> relay (I have one too, but I use it to prevent my 87A, my second amplifier, 
> from transmitting when the antenna is tuning.)
>  
> Here, I found it on page 20:
>  
> 
>  
> 73, Jim N7US
>  
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: H. Cary [mailto:h3c...@gmail.com] 
> Sent: July 22, 2014 21:09
> To: Jim N7US
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N8LP Tuning Relay w/ K3/KPA500 - help, please
>  
> I'm not sure what you mean by "small interrupter," Jim
> Tnx 4 your prompt response!
> 73,
> Cary
>  
> Sent from my iPhone in Lynchburg VA.
>  
> > On Jul 22, 2014, at 9:49 PM, "Jim N7US"  wrote:
> >
> > Cary,
> >
> > I think it will work as you want if you use the small interrupter
> > between the end of the cable from the K3 where it attaches to the KPA500.
> >
> > 73, Jim N7US
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> >
> >
> > Elecraft Reflector participants:
> > If any of y'all use the N8LP tuning relay w/ your K3 and KPA500, I
> > appreciate your help.
> > My kit went together smoothly and all ohm meter checks A-OK. When I 
> > plug the relay into the SteppIR control box the green light comes on.
> > I have RCA phono plug cable running from the PTT connection on the
> > relay to the PTT In connector on K3 and another from the PA Key on Amp
> > to the LOOP plug on Relay box.
> > When I key PTT while SteppIR is tuning, KPA500 does not switch to
> > standby as I believe it should.
> > Obviously I'm doing something wrong.  I even tried the Key Out
> > connection on the K3 but that didn't work either.
> > Any thoughts would be appreciated!
> > 73,
> > Cary, K4TM
> > Lynchburg VA
> > H. Cary III
> > h3c...@gmail.com
> >
> >
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[Elecraft] Buddipole battery and charger

[Ron Gould]

The buddipole battery and charger have been sold
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