[Elecraft] 2-meter amp

[Ray W2RS via Elecraft]

I'm using an old (pre-MFJ) Mirage B1016.  10W in = 160W out.  The  receive 
preamp leaves a bit to be desired but a modern RF-switched low noise  preamp 
ahead of it solves that problem.. It's not full QSK but very few  people 
need that on 2m anyway.
 
A low cost option to consider.
 
73 Ray W2RS
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker - New Thread

[Henry Pollock - K4TMC]

I have just spent quite a bit of time reading all the mail relative to the
new SP3...but did not see these questions:

Will the SP3 have a serial number?  If so, can how can I get the number to
match my K3?

For those with the newer K3S model, can they get one with a SP3S logo?

Will there now be a SP2 to match the K2 model?  And, a SPX3?

73,
Henry - K4TMC
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[Elecraft] KX3 Multi-two environment

[Dan Atchison via Elecraft]

Has anyone used a KX3 in a multi-two environment? Low power?  High 
power?  Specifically, how'd it hold up?

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[Elecraft] Question re new KXV3B

[Richard - HB9ANM]

According to some comments, the new KXV3B seems to be quite an 
improvement on 6m.

As far as i know, no comment has been made on the difference on 10/12m.
Can anyone comment on the performance on 10/12m?
I seldom work 6m, mostly DX. And two fellow hams here in HB9 are interested.
Thanks in advance.

73
Richard - HB9ANM

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Re: [Elecraft] Question re new KXV3B

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,9/22/2015 12:16 PM, Richard - HB9ANM wrote:
According to some comments, the new KXV3B seems to be quite an 
improvement on 6m.

As far as i know, no comment has been made on the difference on 10/12m.
Can anyone comment on the performance on 10/12m? 


If you live in a quiet location, the improvement matters on 10 and 12m.

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] K3 No RX & No RF output

[Ralph McClintock]

 I folks,
Just turned on my K3/100, SN8600 series, rig but I now have no receive 
plus no transmit RF out. And, CQWW RTTY is in a few days. The K3 worked 
perfectly yesterday but today no RX, no TX, other than that single (non 
RF) bar on RF out when keyed. It is not in Test mode, not in Transverter 
mode. Just shut down yesterday, turn on today and nothing. The Pre-Amp 
on/off amplifies the noise, so it looks like the RX is working just has 
no antenna input. It is not antennas, coax etc as the K2/100 sitting 
next to the K3 works perfectly on all bands/antennas. Yes, I did check 
it directly to the same antenna as the K2. It feels like a PIN diode 
problem to me. Any ideas I may have missed.

Thanks, W1ZK

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Chester Alderman]

A REAL ham speaks!! One of the few!!
Congrats on your accomplishments Jim.

73,
Tom - W4BQF


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James
Bennett
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 2:23 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

I built that W6PQL 80 watt amp last year. Built the aluminum chassis, too. I
did not have a sheet metal brake, but a few minutes on Google turned up
quite a few home-brew brake plans. I built one of them and used it to form
the chassis for my amp, and later on a couple other small boxes for shack
utility projects. If you enjoy building stuff, creating your own brake is
worth the effort. I think I made mine for less than $25. And it works pretty
darn well!

Jim / W6JHB



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Re: [Elecraft] What out for VE7FYC

[Jim Rogers]

Bill, To all appearances that call sign is bogus. The QRZ.com name of 
record is unusual and and address composed only of BC, Canada is a bit 
on the suspicious side. QRZ.com reports the call sign record as 
unmanaged. That would be a "no sale" for me.  I hope you did not suffer 
a loss.


Jim, W4ATK

On 9/22/2015 11:28 AM, W0WFH Bill via Elecraft wrote:

He will tell you he sending money via Paypal an nothing.  So don't ship 
himanything till you have funds in hand.He has been turned into Paypal 
Securitydepartment too.
Bill Hudson, W0WFH
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker - New Thread

[Ken G Kopp]

I'd buy one that matches my K2.

73

Ken - K0PP
On Sep 22, 2015 11:33 AM, "Wayne Burdick"  wrote:

> Henry Pollock - K4TMC  wrote:
>
>
> > Will the SP3 have a serial number?
>
> No, but feel free to add one of your own. You get points for style. The
> rest is left as an exercise for the reader.
>
>
> > For those with the newer K3S model, can they get one with a SP3S logo?
>
> The standard SP3 works equally well with the K3 or K3S, so not
> required.
>
>
> > Will there now be a SP2 to match the K2 model?  And, a SPX3?
>
> Unknown, unlikely.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[James Bennett]

I built that W6PQL 80 watt amp last year. Built the aluminum chassis, too. I 
did not have a sheet metal brake, but a few minutes on Google turned up quite a 
few home-brew brake plans. I built one of them and used it to form the chassis 
for my amp, and later on a couple other small boxes for shack utility projects. 
If you enjoy building stuff, creating your own brake is worth the effort. I 
think I made mine for less than $25. And it works pretty darn well!

Jim / W6JHB


> On   Tuesday, Sep 22, 2015, at  Tuesday, 10:47 AM, P.J.Hicks 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is 
> relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I will 
> tell you how I would do it without major tools. 
> 
> 1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece; 
> top, bottom, sides, ends, etc. 
> 
> 2. Locate the nearest Metal Supermarket. I use them as they are close and 
> reasonable and I know them and their stock. They will cut your metal pieces 
> to size very cheaply. Often free. 
> 
> 3. Contact them for a quote and order. They may mail your order, I do not 
> know. There are other places who do the same type business; small orders with 
> cutting. 
> 
> 4. Cut 2 hardwood blocks that just fits inside the lines of the front and 
> rear panels. They should be smaller by the thickness of the metal material 
> plus a smidgeon. 
> 
> 5. Carefully fit the blocks within the lines of the panel you are bending and 
> clamp in a vice. The blocks should be aligned as well as with in the panel 
> lines; Use double sided tape if necessary. 
> 
> 6. Use another hardwood block as a "push block" and gently push and hammer 
> against the flange all along its length until it is bent 90 deg. bending only 
> a small part of the angle at a time. 
> 
> 7. The blocks are also useful when drilling the holes. Some may prefer to 
> drill first but that makes hole alignment very difficult. 
> 
> PJH, N7PXY
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 No RX & No RF output

[ae4pb]

When you turned it off did you turn off the rig or the powersupply?

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ralph
McClintock
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 2:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 No RX & No RF output

  I folks,
Just turned on my K3/100, SN8600 series, rig but I now have no receive plus
no transmit RF out. And, CQWW RTTY is in a few days. The K3 worked perfectly
yesterday but today no RX, no TX, other than that single (non
RF) bar on RF out when keyed. It is not in Test mode, not in Transverter
mode. Just shut down yesterday, turn on today and nothing. The Pre-Amp
on/off amplifies the noise, so it looks like the RX is working just has no
antenna input. It is not antennas, coax etc as the K2/100 sitting next to
the K3 works perfectly on all bands/antennas. Yes, I did check it directly
to the same antenna as the K2. It feels like a PIN diode problem to me. Any
ideas I may have missed.
Thanks, W1ZK

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Re: [Elecraft] K144XV & KRX3A, install which first in K3s?

[Carl Jón Denbow]

OK, Don, I've run into a little confusion: the bottom of page 11 of the 
K144XV instructions has details about installing a new back panel with 
an ANT 3 hole. However, I don't have a replacement panel and my K3s back 
panel already has an ANT 3 hole.   A few pages earlier the instructions 
have a note to skip over some items if you have a K3s, but this is not 
one of them; in fact, the skip instructions say to resume at this 
point.   It seems to me that I actually need to resume somewhere down 
the page on page 12, but I'm having a little trouble figuring out 
where.   Thanks for any further help you can give me.  -- 73 de Carl, N8VZ


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Carl,

The KRX3 must go in first.  If you think about it, the K144XV fits 
above the KRX3, so if you install the K144XV first, you will not be 
able to get the KRX3 in place below it.
The K144XV instructions page 11 3rd checkbox tells you when to install 
the KRX3 *if* you had removed it.  This is the time to install the KRX3.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 9/21/2015 2:27 PM, Carl Jón Denbow wrote:
I seem to have a dilemma.  I'm getting ready to install both the 
K144XV and the KRX3A in my new K3s.  The respective instructions each 
say to remove the other first.  I've read through both manuals, and 
I'm still confused on the best order to do these two operations. I 
put my KRX3A together last night, and it's ready to install after I 
do the other things required inside the K3s itself.  If anyone on 
this list has installed these two modules at the same time, I would 
very much appreciate their insights before I plunge forward.  Might 
save me from having to backtrack because I did a particular step 
prematurely.  Thanks for any help anyone can give me.






--
=
Carl Jón Denbow, N8VZ
17 Coventry Lane
Athens, Ohio 45701-3718

c...@n8vz.com
www.n8vz.com
EM89wh

IRLP 4533   Echolink 116070

PSK and JT65 Forever!
=

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker - New Thread

[Wayne Burdick]

Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO  wrote:

> Will stainless screws be an option or standard?

Standard.


> Will there be a special firmware utility program for it, and if so will there 
> be an IBM 7094 version? Will I be able to copy 75 wpm on it (I already know 
> the answer to that one).

No comment :)

Wayne
N6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] K144XV & KRX3A, install which first in K3s?

[Don Wilhelm]

Carl,

I think I understand why you are confused.  Yes, since you already have 
the rear panel with the ANT3 hole, resume about the middle of page 12 
where it begins with "Locate the TMP cable ..."


In order to tighten the BNC connector, you may find it easier to loosen 
the panel and tilt it back, but if you can get whichever tool you are 
using to tighten the nut on securely without removing the panel, that is 
OK too.  Make certain the BNC jack is adequately tight.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/22/2015 12:41 PM, Carl Jón Denbow wrote:
OK, Don, I've run into a little confusion: the bottom of page 11 of 
the K144XV instructions has details about installing a new back panel 
with an ANT 3 hole. However, I don't have a replacement panel and my 
K3s back panel already has an ANT 3 hole.   A few pages earlier the 
instructions have a note to skip over some items if you have a K3s, 
but this is not one of them; in fact, the skip instructions say to 
resume at this point.   It seems to me that I actually need to resume 
somewhere down the page on page 12, but I'm having a little trouble 
figuring out where.   Thanks for any further help you can give me.  -- 
73 de Carl, N8VZ


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Carl,

The KRX3 must go in first.  If you think about it, the K144XV fits 
above the KRX3, so if you install the K144XV first, you will not be 
able to get the KRX3 in place below it.
The K144XV instructions page 11 3rd checkbox tells you when to 
install the KRX3 *if* you had removed it.  This is the time to 
install the KRX3.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 9/21/2015 2:27 PM, Carl Jón Denbow wrote:
I seem to have a dilemma.  I'm getting ready to install both the 
K144XV and the KRX3A in my new K3s. The respective instructions each 
say to remove the other first.  I've read through both manuals, and 
I'm still confused on the best order to do these two operations. I 
put my KRX3A together last night, and it's ready to install after I 
do the other things required inside the K3s itself.  If anyone on 
this list has installed these two modules at the same time, I would 
very much appreciate their insights before I plunge forward.  Might 
save me from having to backtrack because I did a particular step 
prematurely.  Thanks for any help anyone can give me.








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[Elecraft] Daily Digest & Android

[Mark via Elecraft]

Hello!

I am subscribed to the Yahoo KX3 group and successfully getting daily digests.  
I am so successfully subscribed to the Elecraft (QTH?) reflector, but my 
Android device cannot seem to open the digest documents attached to the daily 
digest email from that reflector. 

What do I need on Android to read the daily digest attachment in my Android 
email program?

Thanks!

Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker - New Thread

[Wayne Burdick]

Henry Pollock - K4TMC  wrote:


> Will the SP3 have a serial number?  

No, but feel free to add one of your own. You get points for style. The rest is 
left as an exercise for the reader.


> For those with the newer K3S model, can they get one with a SP3S logo?

The standard SP3 works equally well with the K3 or K3S, so not required.


> Will there now be a SP2 to match the K2 model?  And, a SPX3?

Unknown, unlikely.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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[Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[P.J.Hicks]

Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is 
relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I will 
tell you how I would do it without major tools. 

1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece; 
top, bottom, sides, ends, etc. 

2. Locate the nearest Metal Supermarket. I use them as they are close and 
reasonable and I know them and their stock. They will cut your metal pieces to 
size very cheaply. Often free. 

3. Contact them for a quote and order. They may mail your order, I do not know. 
There are other places who do the same type business; small orders with 
cutting. 

4. Cut 2 hardwood blocks that just fits inside the lines of the front and rear 
panels. They should be smaller by the thickness of the metal material plus a 
smidgeon. 

5. Carefully fit the blocks within the lines of the panel you are bending and 
clamp in a vice. The blocks should be aligned as well as with in the panel 
lines; Use double sided tape if necessary. 

6. Use another hardwood block as a "push block" and gently push and hammer 
against the flange all along its length until it is bent 90 deg. bending only a 
small part of the angle at a time. 

7. The blocks are also useful when drilling the holes. Some may prefer to drill 
first but that makes hole alignment very difficult. 

PJH, N7PXY
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

Yes well, as to EME and MS, my viewpoint is anything less than legal 
limit is considered QRP.Which brings a point to mind.  I get really 
annoyed with stations adding a power amp and doing nothing to improve 
their receiving situation.  Seems hams like to have folks brag on their 
big signal when their  receiving conditions are as deaf as an anvil.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,9/22/2015 6:39 AM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:
My experience on VHF is 10 to 20 watts and a 10 ele yagi is OK for 
most CW and SSB work when good tropo conditions exist. 


Your experience would be quite different west of the Mississippi, where 
population density is much less, and with much greater distances between 
population centers. That's why, for example, the FCC licenses 10 dB 
greater TX power west of the MS river.


Higher TX power also helps for moonbounce and meteor scatter.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

Are you saying I can run 15 KW PEP in West Memphis AR which is west of 
the MS river and only 1.5 KW in Memphis, TN which is east of the MS river?


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163

That's why, for example, the FCC licenses 10 dB
greater TX power west of the MS river.



Higher TX power also helps for moonbounce and meteor scatter.


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker - New Thread

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Will stainless screws be an option or standard? Will there be a special 
firmware utility program for it, and if so will there be an IBM 7094 
version? Will I be able to copy 75 wpm on it (I already know the answer 
to that one).


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 22 Sep 2015 19:19, Henry Pollock - K4TMC wrote:

I have just spent quite a bit of time reading all the mail relative to the
new SP3...but did not see these questions:

Will the SP3 have a serial number?  If so, can how can I get the number to
match my K3?

For those with the newer K3S model, can they get one with a SP3S logo?

Will there now be a SP2 to match the K2 model?  And, a SPX3?

73,
Henry - K4TMC

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,9/22/2015 10:45 AM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:
Are you saying I can run 15 KW PEP in West Memphis AR which is west of 
the MS river and only 1.5 KW in Memphis, TN which is east of the MS 
river? 


Sorry -- I was referencing FM broadcast and TV, and failed to say so.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[David Rutledge]

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Re: [Elecraft] What out for VE7FYC

[David Gilbert]

Not so.  That callsign shows up several places on Google... was even a 
past officer of the Pacific Northwest VHF Society.


I'm not saying that he's a crook or anything, and I wouldn't be 
surprised to find that this complaint was the result of bad 
communication between the parties, but the callsign seems legit.


Personally, I find these gripe posts with unproven accusations to be 
totally annoying and out of place here.


Dave   AB7E



On 9/22/2015 1:04 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:
Bill, To all appearances that call sign is bogus. The QRZ.com name of 
record is unusual and and address composed only of BC, Canada is a bit 
on the suspicious side. QRZ.com reports the call sign record as 
unmanaged. That would be a "no sale" for me.  I hope you did not 
suffer a loss.


Jim, W4ATK

On 9/22/2015 11:28 AM, W0WFH Bill via Elecraft wrote:
He will tell you he sending money via Paypal an nothing.  So don't 
ship himanything till you have funds in hand.He has been turned into 
Paypal Securitydepartment too.

Bill Hudson, W0WFH
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker - New Thread

[Alan]

Elecraft should sell cans of K2-gray spray paint.

Alan N1AL


On 09/22/2015 11:28 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

I'd buy one that matches my K2.



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Re: [Elecraft] What out for VE7FYC

[Scott CHARLES]

Hi guys.

This is VE7FYC / Scott Charles and yes I am a real Ham just trying to
complete a simple transaction for a Elecraft 2m transverter.

I hope everyone is doing well.
Thanks and 73s

Scott / VE7FYC
On Sep 22, 2015 5:41 PM, "Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft" 
wrote:

> Folks, we're drifting a little far afield. Lets close the thread at this
> time.
>
> 73,
>
> Eric
> List Moderator
> /elecraft.com/
>
> On 9/22/2015 2:21 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:
>
>> I suspect you may be right. It is just my personal policy to check QRZ
>> for address confirmation before completing any transaction with another
>> ham. It is just an added measure of confidence to me.
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] What out for VE7FYC

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Folks, we're drifting a little far afield. Lets close the thread at this time.

73,

Eric
List Moderator
/elecraft.com/

On 9/22/2015 2:21 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:
I suspect you may be right. It is just my personal policy to check QRZ for 
address confirmation before completing any transaction with another ham. It is 
just an added measure of confidence to me.


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[Elecraft] K3S PTT using DTR/DTS issue

[ae4pb]

So my new K3S is running well and I'm setting up my software and see that it
can do digital modes and control PTT using a comm port. I open my owners
manual, page 20, which says I can use that connection for control and PTT.
I'm already using the USB for control so will just use it for PTT. I have a
USB to serial adapter so I install it, plug in the RJ47 connector to the
rig, mate the DB 9 connectors and immediately smell burning components,
Quickly disconnect the DB9.

 

I was previously using this serial adapter successfully on a YAESU FT-897D
before I sold the rig to get the K3S.

 

So now the questions:

1.   Why did this apparently experience an issue? I see nothing in the
manual to indicate this requires anything but a standard connection.

2.   How much damage has been done to my brand new k3S using the supplied
Elecraft cable and a known good previously good USB to Serial cable (MFJ I
believe).

 

I'm heartsick. Being the type of person who checks and double checks things
I can find nothing wrong with what I did and yet apparently I've damaged
something.

 

Tomorrow I'll pull the cover and check the board. 

 

 

Jerry Moore

AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324

An Amatuer is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Phil Hystad]

And, there is a much better quality sheet metal brake for about $189 from 
Eastwood (Versa Bend Sheet Metal Brake).

I saw that Harbor Freight one for $39 but I wouldn’t buy it without looking at 
it (physically touching it) closely.

phil, K7PEH

> On Sep 22, 2015, at 1:56 PM, Dale LeDoux  wrote:
> 
> Harbor Freight sells an 18” sheet metal brake for about forty bucks.
> 
> I’ve used a lot of Harbor Freight tools.  Some of them require a bit of 
> tweaking to work perfectly, but they’re generally good enough right out of 
> the box.
> 
> Dale
> W5OHM
> 
>> On Sep 22, 2015, at 1:22 PM, James Bennett  wrote:
>> 
>> I built that W6PQL 80 watt amp last year. Built the aluminum chassis, too. I 
>> did not have a sheet metal brake, but a few minutes on Google turned up 
>> quite a few home-brew brake plans. I built one of them and used it to form 
>> the chassis for my amp, and later on a couple other small boxes for shack 
>> utility projects. If you enjoy building stuff, creating your own brake is 
>> worth the effort. I think I made mine for less than $25. And it works pretty 
>> darn well!
>> 
>> Jim / W6JHB
>> 
>> 
>>> On   Tuesday, Sep 22, 2015, at  Tuesday, 10:47 AM, P.J.Hicks 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is 
>>> relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I 
>>> will tell you how I would do it without major tools. 
>>> 
>>> 1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece; 
>>> top, bottom, sides, ends, etc. 
>>> 
>>> 2. Locate the nearest Metal Supermarket. I use them as they are close and 
>>> reasonable and I know them and their stock. They will cut your metal pieces 
>>> to size very cheaply. Often free. 
>>> 
>>> 3. Contact them for a quote and order. They may mail your order, I do not 
>>> know. There are other places who do the same type business; small orders 
>>> with cutting. 
>>> 
>>> 4. Cut 2 hardwood blocks that just fits inside the lines of the front and 
>>> rear panels. They should be smaller by the thickness of the metal material 
>>> plus a smidgeon. 
>>> 
>>> 5. Carefully fit the blocks within the lines of the panel you are bending 
>>> and clamp in a vice. The blocks should be aligned as well as with in the 
>>> panel lines; Use double sided tape if necessary. 
>>> 
>>> 6. Use another hardwood block as a "push block" and gently push and hammer 
>>> against the flange all along its length until it is bent 90 deg. bending 
>>> only a small part of the angle at a time. 
>>> 
>>> 7. The blocks are also useful when drilling the holes. Some may prefer to 
>>> drill first but that makes hole alignment very difficult. 
>>> 
>>> PJH, N7PXY
>>> __
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>>> Message delivered to w6...@me.com
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Richard W. Solomon]

Bending sheet metal to make a box ... really ... 

If I needed something that looked like the letter "Z" to mount stuff 
Then maybe.

But for a project box there are just too many sizes and variations to 
Waste my time and money to make a box.

Just one mans opinion.

73, Dick, W1KSZ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil 
Hystad
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 5:41 PM
To: Dale LeDoux
Cc: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

And, there is a much better quality sheet metal brake for about $189 from 
Eastwood (Versa Bend Sheet Metal Brake).

I saw that Harbor Freight one for $39 but I wouldn’t buy it without looking at 
it (physically touching it) closely.

phil, K7PEH

> On Sep 22, 2015, at 1:56 PM, Dale LeDoux  wrote:
> 
> Harbor Freight sells an 18” sheet metal brake for about forty bucks.
> 
> I’ve used a lot of Harbor Freight tools.  Some of them require a bit of 
> tweaking to work perfectly, but they’re generally good enough right out of 
> the box.
> 
> Dale
> W5OHM
> 
>> On Sep 22, 2015, at 1:22 PM, James Bennett  wrote:
>> 
>> I built that W6PQL 80 watt amp last year. Built the aluminum chassis, too. I 
>> did not have a sheet metal brake, but a few minutes on Google turned up 
>> quite a few home-brew brake plans. I built one of them and used it to form 
>> the chassis for my amp, and later on a couple other small boxes for shack 
>> utility projects. If you enjoy building stuff, creating your own brake is 
>> worth the effort. I think I made mine for less than $25. And it works pretty 
>> darn well!
>> 
>> Jim / W6JHB
>> 
>> 
>>> On   Tuesday, Sep 22, 2015, at  Tuesday, 10:47 AM, P.J.Hicks 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is 
>>> relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I 
>>> will tell you how I would do it without major tools. 
>>> 
>>> 1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece; 
>>> top, bottom, sides, ends, etc. 
>>> 
>>> 2. Locate the nearest Metal Supermarket. I use them as they are close and 
>>> reasonable and I know them and their stock. They will cut your metal pieces 
>>> to size very cheaply. Often free. 
>>> 
>>> 3. Contact them for a quote and order. They may mail your order, I do not 
>>> know. There are other places who do the same type business; small orders 
>>> with cutting. 
>>> 
>>> 4. Cut 2 hardwood blocks that just fits inside the lines of the front and 
>>> rear panels. They should be smaller by the thickness of the metal material 
>>> plus a smidgeon. 
>>> 
>>> 5. Carefully fit the blocks within the lines of the panel you are bending 
>>> and clamp in a vice. The blocks should be aligned as well as with in the 
>>> panel lines; Use double sided tape if necessary. 
>>> 
>>> 6. Use another hardwood block as a "push block" and gently push and hammer 
>>> against the flange all along its length until it is bent 90 deg. bending 
>>> only a small part of the angle at a time. 
>>> 
>>> 7. The blocks are also useful when drilling the holes. Some may prefer to 
>>> drill first but that makes hole alignment very difficult. 
>>> 
>>> PJH, N7PXY
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> 
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this 
>>> email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
>>> w6...@me.com
>> 
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> 
> 
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Home: 

[Elecraft] K2 External Speaker - New Thread

[Ken G Kopp]

Actually,  didn't / doesn't Elecraft sell cans of "K2" touch-up
spray paint?  I'll check the order page.

73!

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] What out for VE7FYC

[Cliff Frescura]

Don't discount the possibility that someone hijacked his call sign -
especially if funds were not mailed to his physical address.

Cliff K3LL/6

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David
Gilbert
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 1:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] What out for VE7FYC


Not so.  That callsign shows up several places on Google... was even a past
officer of the Pacific Northwest VHF Society.

I'm not saying that he's a crook or anything, and I wouldn't be surprised to
find that this complaint was the result of bad communication between the
parties, but the callsign seems legit.

Personally, I find these gripe posts with unproven accusations to be totally
annoying and out of place here.

Dave   AB7E



On 9/22/2015 1:04 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:
> Bill, To all appearances that call sign is bogus. The QRZ.com name of 
> record is unusual and and address composed only of BC, Canada is a bit 
> on the suspicious side. QRZ.com reports the call sign record as 
> unmanaged. That would be a "no sale" for me.  I hope you did not 
> suffer a loss.
>
> Jim, W4ATK
>
> On 9/22/2015 11:28 AM, W0WFH Bill via Elecraft wrote:
>> He will tell you he sending money via Paypal an nothing.  So don't 
>> ship himanything till you have funds in hand.He has been turned into 
>> Paypal Securitydepartment too.
>> Bill Hudson, W0WFH
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Re: [Elecraft] What out for VE7FYC

[Jim Rogers]

I suspect you may be right. It is just my personal policy to check QRZ 
for address confirmation before completing any transaction with another 
ham. It is just an added measure of confidence to me. The fact the 
gentleman had no address information on QRZ certainly could be as you 
say or as one other person suggested, the call sign was highjacked. I 
rarely sell except when updating my station and always use PayPal. If 
the buyer doesn't like PayPal then there is no sale. I ship when PayPal 
has the funds in hand, and I follow up with the tracking information to 
PayPal as proof of shipment. I also tell my buyer he has 7 days to 
return the item to me in original condition for a full refund if he/she 
is not completely satisfied. So far it has all worked for me and I have 
not suffered any loss in the few internet sales I have made.


Jim, W4ATK

On 9/22/2015 3:19 PM, David Gilbert wrote:


Not so.  That callsign shows up several places on Google... was even a 
past officer of the Pacific Northwest VHF Society.


I'm not saying that he's a crook or anything, and I wouldn't be 
surprised to find that this complaint was the result of bad 
communication between the parties, but the callsign seems legit.


Personally, I find these gripe posts with unproven accusations to be 
totally annoying and out of place here.


Dave   AB7E



On 9/22/2015 1:04 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:
Bill, To all appearances that call sign is bogus. The QRZ.com name of 
record is unusual and and address composed only of BC, Canada is a 
bit on the suspicious side. QRZ.com reports the call sign record as 
unmanaged. That would be a "no sale" for me.  I hope you did not 
suffer a loss.


Jim, W4ATK

On 9/22/2015 11:28 AM, W0WFH Bill via Elecraft wrote:
He will tell you he sending money via Paypal an nothing.  So don't 
ship himanything till you have funds in hand.He has been turned into 
Paypal Securitydepartment too.

Bill Hudson, W0WFH
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 External Speaker - New Thread

[Alan]

Interesting I didn't realize Elecraft sold paint.  :=)

However, the link to "Touch up paint for the K1 K2" on the "Spare Parts 
and Mod Kits: page doesn't seem to work.


http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm#paint

It just takes you back to the same page.

Alan


On 09/22/2015 02:11 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

Actually,  didn't / doesn't Elecraft sell cans of "K2" touch-up
spray paint?  I'll check the order page.

73!

Ken - K0PP

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[Elecraft] 2 Meter Amplifier

[BillP]

I built and use the 80 watt 2 meter all mode amplifier by W6PQL setup for 2 
watts drive, google it.  The amp was built from scratch and the end result 
looks just like the build photos except I used BNC rf input, Andersen DC and 
ink jet printed labels in lieu of Front Panel Express front and rear.  The VHF 
Toshiba power module is very sensitive so exercise good VHF construction and 
bypassing practices and use a stable 13.8V power source. A power output/SWR 
meter should be used at all times.  Bill k6acj

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] What out for VE7FYC

[bill NY9H]

google:

VE7FYC SCOTT EVAN ALEXANDER CHARLES 2356 WEST 16TH AVENUE VANCOUVER B C V6K3B6 


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Dale LeDoux]

Harbor Freight sells an 18” sheet metal brake for about forty bucks.

I’ve used a lot of Harbor Freight tools.  Some of them require a bit of 
tweaking to work perfectly, but they’re generally good enough right out of the 
box.

Dale
W5OHM

> On Sep 22, 2015, at 1:22 PM, James Bennett  wrote:
> 
> I built that W6PQL 80 watt amp last year. Built the aluminum chassis, too. I 
> did not have a sheet metal brake, but a few minutes on Google turned up quite 
> a few home-brew brake plans. I built one of them and used it to form the 
> chassis for my amp, and later on a couple other small boxes for shack utility 
> projects. If you enjoy building stuff, creating your own brake is worth the 
> effort. I think I made mine for less than $25. And it works pretty darn well!
> 
> Jim / W6JHB
> 
> 
>> On   Tuesday, Sep 22, 2015, at  Tuesday, 10:47 AM, P.J.Hicks 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is 
>> relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I 
>> will tell you how I would do it without major tools. 
>> 
>> 1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece; 
>> top, bottom, sides, ends, etc. 
>> 
>> 2. Locate the nearest Metal Supermarket. I use them as they are close and 
>> reasonable and I know them and their stock. They will cut your metal pieces 
>> to size very cheaply. Often free. 
>> 
>> 3. Contact them for a quote and order. They may mail your order, I do not 
>> know. There are other places who do the same type business; small orders 
>> with cutting. 
>> 
>> 4. Cut 2 hardwood blocks that just fits inside the lines of the front and 
>> rear panels. They should be smaller by the thickness of the metal material 
>> plus a smidgeon. 
>> 
>> 5. Carefully fit the blocks within the lines of the panel you are bending 
>> and clamp in a vice. The blocks should be aligned as well as with in the 
>> panel lines; Use double sided tape if necessary. 
>> 
>> 6. Use another hardwood block as a "push block" and gently push and hammer 
>> against the flange all along its length until it is bent 90 deg. bending 
>> only a small part of the angle at a time. 
>> 
>> 7. The blocks are also useful when drilling the holes. Some may prefer to 
>> drill first but that makes hole alignment very difficult. 
>> 
>> PJH, N7PXY
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Edward R Cole]

I have analyzed my costs to build single units of the W6PQL 80w 2m 
amplifier and the total material costs come to $254.  Based on that I 
have posted information at:

http://www.kl7uw.com/kits.htm

The amplifier will use a 1.375x5.375x8 inch heat sink with a 120mm 
fan.  Fan will be thermistor controlled.  The enclosure chosen is the 
Hammond 1590D 4.7x7.4 inch diecast aluminum box.  It will be 
available in natural aluminum or  painted a light flat gray.  A 
ten-segment LED RF power indicator will be included.  Otherwise is as 
described on the W6PQL website (link from my website).


It will be offered as a partial kit (all surface-mount components 
pre-installed but all thru-hole left to the customer).  Price $284.00 
+ $18 flat-rate shipping & insurance
Also available fully assembled and tested for $354 + $18 flat-rate 
shipping & insurance


Optional N female connectors for additional $5.00.

All prices in US funds and subject to change without notice and only 
apply in the USA.  I will ship international but shipping will be more.


NO ORDERS accepted until November, 2015.  E-mail me if you want to be 
put on a pre-order waiting list. PayPal will be preferred method of 
payment.  These will be built one at a time with my 30-day delivery 
policy.  90-day warrantee on labor and materials.


Input power range 50mw to 10w which must be stated with order.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S PTT using DTR/DTS issue

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

Did you have the USB connection to the K3S still connected while you 
also connected the USB to Serial adapter into the RJ-45 dongle?


If so, that is a "No-no".  RS-232 (whether from the internal K3 USB to 
serial adapter or from an external adapter) is a one to one, point to 
point protocol.  It must have *only* one driver on the signal lines.
If you connected both at once, you had two drivers on the signal lines, 
and those two drivers would "fight with one another", possibly causing 
damage.
When one driver is trying to send a mark, the other trying to send a 
space, those two signals are of opposite polarity and can cause damage 
to one another.


So whether you damaged your external USB to serial adapter or if you 
damaged the internal USB to serial adapter in the K3S is indeterminate - 
damage could have been done to both.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/22/2015 10:42 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

So my new K3S is running well and I'm setting up my software and see that it
can do digital modes and control PTT using a comm port. I open my owners
manual, page 20, which says I can use that connection for control and PTT.
I'm already using the USB for control so will just use it for PTT. I have a
USB to serial adapter so I install it, plug in the RJ47 connector to the
rig, mate the DB 9 connectors and immediately smell burning components,
Quickly disconnect the DB9.

  


I was previously using this serial adapter successfully on a YAESU FT-897D
before I sold the rig to get the K3S.

  


So now the questions:

1.   Why did this apparently experience an issue? I see nothing in the
manual to indicate this requires anything but a standard connection.

2.   How much damage has been done to my brand new k3S using the supplied
Elecraft cable and a known good previously good USB to Serial cable (MFJ I
believe).

  


I'm heartsick. Being the type of person who checks and double checks things
I can find nothing wrong with what I did and yet apparently I've damaged
something.

  


Tomorrow I'll pull the cover and check the board.

  

  


Jerry Moore

AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324

An Amatuer is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.

  

  


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[Elecraft] FS K144xv transverter

[W0WFH Bill via Elecraft]

I have a nice Elecraft K144XV transverterthat I been using with my K2.$305.00 
and I will ship lower 48 via US postal service.
Bill Hudson, W0WFHLinn, mo.w0...@yahoo.com
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[Elecraft] KX3 6 meter VSWR issue.

[WD4SDC]

Greetings,

I'm having a problem with my KX3 that I have not been able to resolve.

Equipment:
KX3 S/N 7210, FW 02.25

Problem:

While performing a tx gain calibration using the KX3 utility software (rev
1.14.4.11), it failed when trying to cal 52MHz.  This was because the VSWR
on that band was 1.8:1 (dummy load directly connected - no cable, ATU
bypassed).  I checked the load (Narda 40W D.C. -> 12GHz) and it checked OK
using another rig (TS480) - flat across the (6M) band as you would expect.

I was orginally having issues when the voltage would drop below threshold
causing the power level setting to change and that would result in no power
out (PSK31).  TX gain cal fixed that on the problem band (40 meters) and
160->10M is fine.  Honestly, I don't think I ever tried 6 meters - no
interest at the time - so this problem could have been there since day one -
but the factory inspection test (the inital TX gain cal?) should have caught
it, so not sure when or how this would have occured.

Thinking that perhaps this was a config bit gone astray, I loaded a config
file from February (about 2 months after I got the radio).  Still had the 6M
SWR issue, but the power level was working OKapparently that got pooched
some time after that config backup.  The config backup  I did just before
the TX level cal restored the power level problem - so that is repeatable -
and fixed. Backups are a wonderful thing.  The 6M VSWR problem appears to be
unrelated - just surfaced during the TX gain cal.

If I enable the ATU, I can get a 1:1 match to the dummy load, and I get 10W
out (KX3 meter). So...how to proceed? Seems like maybe a band switch/output
tuning network problem?  Although, for 6M it is a straight thru connection
(via K8).  

Comments appreciated.

On a positive note, great radio!...as I'm sure you have heard at least 7210
times;)  I'm am having alot of fun with this radio.  It's amazing what you
can do on 40M with 3 watts and a dipole supended 10ft above salt water on a
wood pier railing (long story) - 40dB C/N at 125Mi NVIS path.

Thanks,

Steve
WD4SDC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S PTT using DTR/DTS issue

[Lyle Johnson]

Hello Jerry!

I am not sure what you mean by "I'm already using the USB for control so 
will just use it for PTT. "


You can certainly use USB for audio and RS232 for serial control. If you 
use RS232 for serial control, you need to set up the menu for the data 
rate.  You must also use RS232 for RTS and DTR in that case.


If you set up for USB for serial control,then you must use RTS and DTR 
over USB as well.


I have plugged in USB<->RS232 cables between my computer and the KIO3B 
using the supplied RJ-45 <-> DE-9 cable and it worked fine.  I have also 
done this using USB for audio.


No smoke ever escaped during all of this testing and use.

I cannot diagnose what may have failed or why, but it sounds like the 
computer system may have a different power ground return than the radio 
system and there may have been current flowing though the RS232/USB 
connection as a result.


Hooking a serial port to the supplied serial port cable with the menu 
selecting RS232 should cause no problems, and using USB with the menu 
selecting USB should cause no problems.


I have had things hooked up and had the menu in the incorrect selection 
(RS232 but only USB physically connected, or USB with only RS232 
physically connected) with no physical damage, though of course the rig 
did not communicate with the application under those circumstances.


73,

Lyle KK7P



So my new K3S is running well and I'm setting up my software and see that it
can do digital modes and control PTT using a comm port. I open my owners
manual, page 20, which says I can use that connection for control and PTT.
I'm already using the USB for control so will just use it for PTT. I have a
USB to serial adapter so I install it, plug in the RJ47 connector to the
rig, mate the DB 9 connectors and immediately smell burning components,
Quickly disconnect the DB9.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Multi-two environment

[Wayne Burdick]

As with Field-Day operation, I would recommend two things:

1. Keep antennas separate as far apart as possible (this is just good 
multi-station practice)

2. Set up all KX3s to have their isolation amplifiers turned on (MENU:RX ISO). 
This keeps the local oscillators of different radios from interfering with each 
others' receive if they happen to be tuned to exactly the same frequency.

73,
Wayne




On Sep 22, 2015, at 12:38 PM, Dan Atchison via Elecraft 
 wrote:

> Has anyone used a KX3 in a multi-two environment? Low power?  High power?  
> Specifically, how'd it hold up?
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Kevin Stover]

Most metal houses will shear stuff to size for a small pittance. A 
desktop drill press for drilling holes, Bob's your uncleCase parts.


Being a semi-retired production and R+D welder, and having a pretty nice 
Mig/Tig setup just begging to melt some metal, it wouldn't take me long 
to tig weld an aluminum case.


 Look Ma! Very few screws! I count four to hold the heat sink in the 
case, maybe six, and whatever the number is to attach an N style chassis 
connector.


--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[w7nmd]

Try this:  Chris at the Metalwerks. You can reach him anytime at
801-231-2658 or by email Chris at KF7P dot com. I have used him for a
number of projects and can vouch for the quality of workmanship and
timeliness of delivery. He probably still has the set of drawings that I
sent him for the enclosure.

73
Palmer W7NMD
Ozark Precision TIG
Mountain Home, Ar



On 9/21/2015 10:34 PM, Ny9h@comcastNet [via Elecraft] wrote:
>
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Phil Hystad <[hidden email] 
> >
> Date: 09/21/2015  8:06 PM  (GMT-05:00)
> To: "Richard W. Solomon" <[hidden email] 
> >
> Cc: [hidden email] 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier
>
>
> > On Sep 21, 2015, at 4:55 PM, Richard W. Solomon <[hidden email] 
> > wrote:
> >
> > Have you looked at Hammond boxes ? Fairly heavy aluminum.
> >
> > 73, Dick, W1KSZ
> >
>
> Yes, I have considered them.  Our local industrial supply electronics 
> retail store (Vetco)  carries a selection of Hammond Boxes and I 
> didn’t find anything suitable.  I also checked the Hammond Web site 
> but again the closest match I could find was a bit larger than I 
> wanted (although, if pushed into a corner I agree it could work).
>
> They are heavy aluminum — cast aluminum I think.  And, this is one 
> thing I didn’t like about them but I guess my reasons for not liking 
> them were a bit trivial.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
> P.S.  I should admit that the main reason I am not rushing out to 
> build this W6PQL amp is because I haven’t had the spare time and I 
> have this back-of-the-head thought that Elecraft would come out with a 
> 2-meter brick announcement the day I finished that project.
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> 
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> 
>
> 
> If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the 
> discussion below:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-or-K3-2-meter-solid-state-amplifier-tp7608098p7608122.html
>  
>
> To start a new topic under Elecraft, email 
> ml-node+s365791n365791...@n2.nabble.com
> To unsubscribe from Elecraft, click here 
> .
> NAML 
> 
>  
>





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[Elecraft] What out for VE7FYC

[W0WFH Bill via Elecraft]

He will tell you he sending money via Paypal an nothing.  So don't ship 
himanything till you have funds in hand.He has been turned into Paypal 
Securitydepartment too.
Bill Hudson, W0WFH
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[David Anderson]

Hi Phil,

For me, no. I already have a KX3 with transverter and SSPA. I have an old BNOS 
3W to 100 W amplifier in my cupboard, should I ever wish to go portable with 
the KX3 ( though I have not bought the internal 2m transverter yet, as I may 
instead get a 4m transverter to cover that band).

Can I ask you a few questions?

What would be your intended use for this amplifier?

1. Out portable with the KX3 (where you have a small generator or large 
battery)? Ruggedness is more important than looks here.

2. Local FM simplex at home where 3W barefoot from the KX3 might not be quite 
enough and you want a nice looking box to match the rest of the lineup?

3. Casual weak signal work from home on SSB CW WSJT? 

4. As a driver for a legal limit triode tube amplifier for Real DX and contest 
work?

These are the main uses I could see, and you have to ask how many people might 
be interested in those. ( You did ask the question and I think you will find 
the answer is very few in real numbers).

For item 4, more and more the legal limit tube amplifier is being replaced by 
the LDMOS SSPA which requires only 3W or so to drive it to a kW out, so the 
driver amplifier is no longer required.

For Item 3, there are so many DC- Light multimode multiband radios out there 
that cover 2m with 50 to 100 W output now that satisfy the casual user, the 
real contester and DXer will use a K3 and high quality transverter and tube or 
LDMOS SSPA nowadays.

I just can't see the numbers being anywhere near high enough for Elecraft to be 
able to make an intermediate power VHF amplifier at what would be a price that 
most would even think about paying. If in any doubt see how much the newly 
introduced matching Elecraft speakers are, and that is for a product that is 
going to be much more popular.

As others have said, the alternative is to build a W6PQL amplifier kit, into an 
Elecraft speaker box if necessary ;-)

73

David Anderson GM4JJJ 

> On 21 Sep 2015, at 22:58, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
> I am curious — how much interest is there in a 2-meter, solid-state, 
> amplifier from Elecraft that could be used with either the KX3 or the K3.
> 
> I own a KX3 with the 2-meter option and I have considered buying a 2-meter 
> amplifier in the 35 to 90 watt power range (or, something close to that).  
> But, I would rather have an Elecraft product.  Do others feel the same way or 
> am I wanting too much?
> 
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

My experience on VHF is 10 to 20 watts and a 10 ele yagi is OK for most 
CW and SSB work when good tropo conditions exist.  However, more antenna 
in the air will help on both receive and transmit and be to more 
advantage to all as opposed to 100 to 200 watts alone.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Brian Linn]

Yes, a 2m amp from Electraft would be desireable.

73, Brian KD0HII

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil 
Hystad
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2015 16:58
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

I am curious — how much interest is there in a 2-meter, solid-state, amplifier 
from Elecraft that could be used with either the KX3 or the K3.

I own a KX3 with the 2-meter option and I have considered buying a 2-meter 
amplifier in the 35 to 90 watt power range (or, something close to that).  But, 
I would rather have an Elecraft product.  Do others feel the same way or am I 
wanting too much?


73, phil, K7PEH

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[Elecraft] FS Elecraft PR-6 6 Meter LNA

[John Klewer]

6 Meter low noise amplifier, model PR-6, with all original hardware and
tested, working properly.

$80.00 shipped USA
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

My feeling is that unless an acceptable design or product could be re-branded, 
the total sales potential would never justify the engineering effort.

Just ask yourself, of all the K3's and K3S' sold, how many have the internal 2M 
option installed.  Of that percentage, how many need an outboard amp.  From 
THAT percentage, how many either already have one * or how many will buy a 
"pre-owned" amp?

I'd bet the answer is "Not a lot".  (Guessing under a hundred.)

73, Charlie k3ICH

* My TE Systems amp yields about 400 watts out driven by the internal 2M board 
in my K3S




-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brian Linn
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 7:27 AM
To: 'Elecraft Reflector' 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

Yes, a 2m amp from Electraft would be desireable.

73, Brian KD0HII



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[Jerry Moore]

If the option had 50w I'd have it on my list to install. At 10w I'm not
confident it would be a good value. 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Charlie T, K3ICH
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 8:07 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

My feeling is that unless an acceptable design or product could be
re-branded, the total sales potential would never justify the engineering
effort.

Just ask yourself, of all the K3's and K3S' sold, how many have the internal
2M option installed.  Of that percentage, how many need an outboard amp.
>From THAT percentage, how many either already have one * or how many will
buy a "pre-owned" amp?

I'd bet the answer is "Not a lot".  (Guessing under a hundred.)

73, Charlie k3ICH

* My TE Systems amp yields about 400 watts out driven by the internal 2M
board in my K3S




-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brian
Linn
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 7:27 AM
To: 'Elecraft Reflector' 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

Yes, a 2m amp from Electraft would be desireable.

73, Brian KD0HII



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

[ae4pb]

I'm eventually wanting to play with Sats so I'll need a full duplex 2m/70cm
anyway.

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
McGraw - K4TAX
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 9:40 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier

My experience on VHF is 10 to 20 watts and a 10 ele yagi is OK for most CW
and SSB work when good tropo conditions exist.  However, more antenna in the
air will help on both receive and transmit and be to more advantage to all
as opposed to 100 to 200 watts alone.

73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163


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