[Elecraft] Internal 2M xvtr in K3s

[Howard Sherer]

Just setting up my K3s
The 2M xvtr will only give me about 5W max output not 10W. This was a
factory installed option, and I don't want to go through a re cal right
away.

I also need to be able to adjust the 2M output from 1-10 W as a driver for
my PA for EME. I find that the power adj on the K3s only allows me to
reduce the full output of 5W to 0 as one step as i reduce the IF drive
level in small amounts. So the 2M output is either 0 or 5W with little
adjustment between.

Any ideas?

Howard AE3T
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s USB com questions

[Per-Tore Aasestrand]

Hello,

This is usually easy to accomplish.
Please have a look here:

http://cedrus.com/support/rb_series/tn1045_usbport_win.htm

If you run into problem, you can send me an email directly.

Good luck.

73 de LA7NO / Per-Tore


On 15 October 2015 at 13:14, Howard Sherer  wrote:

> I am just setting up my K3s and have 2 questions regarding the USB com use.
>
> The com port that is assigned to my K3s is com 27. This com port is NOT
> listed as one that is available on some of the programs that i use, where
> it IS shown on some of the programs. And ideas on a workaround?
>
> Also the comp post data rate is 9600 and is a bit slow for some
> applications. any way to speed this up?
>
> Howard AE3T
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Jorge Diez - CX6VM]

THANKS for all the replies, very clear to understand!

And also need to use N1mm like Davis, hope I can do it

Thanks,
Jorge


-Mensaje original-
De: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] En nombre de David
Smith
Enviado el: jueves, 15 de octubre de 2015 07:10 a.m.
Para: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

I have an additional question in addition to Jorge.  I recently installed my
LPAN2 (I do not have a P3).  

My question is that can I run my LPAN2 at the same time I run N1MM+.   I
tried and got a port conflict the with K3.  Also, I run SO2R with 2 K3s and
never made it that far to check additional port conflicts as I didn't make
it past the first port conflict.

Any comments appreciated.

David, ND4Y

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jorge
Diez - CX6VM
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 9:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

Hello

 

I am looking for information about LP-PAN 2 and the P3 SVGA

 

Not understand at all about them, are the same?

 

May I use LP-PAN 2 without P3 or there´s any benefit using both LP-PAN 2 and
P3 

 

Or is better to use just the P3 SVGA

 

Thanks,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W

 

 



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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Don Wilhelm]

LPB2 is a version of LP-Bridge that is intended for use with 
transceivers other than the K3 (K3S and KX3).
If you are running a K3, LP-Bridge (not LPB2) will provide better 
performance because it buffers some of the K3 information and thus 
reduces the need for frequent access to the K3 for information.  As a 
"for instance", LPB knows that the K3 is in USB mode, so when an 
application connected to one if its virtual ports polls for the mode of 
the K3, LPB can send that to the application without polling the K3 - in 
other words, it reduces the traffic between the computer and the K3.


Since LPB2 is not K3 dedicated, I would expect that there would be more 
direct accesses to the K3 than with LPB.


In other words, LPB2 is *not* an updated revision of LPB.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2015 8:52 AM, Ken wrote:

David,

I'm using LPB2 (LP Bridge) to handle the serial port  access. FWIW, I 
use DX Lab Commander for multi rig use.   That works especially well 
for allowing either rig (K3 or Flex 6300) access control to the 
KAT-500 tuner as well as logging software, fldigi, etc.




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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[David Smith]

I have an additional question in addition to Jorge.  I recently installed my
LPAN2 (I do not have a P3).  

My question is that can I run my LPAN2 at the same time I run N1MM+.   I
tried and got a port conflict the with K3.  Also, I run SO2R with 2 K3s and
never made it that far to check additional port conflicts as I didn't make
it past the first port conflict.

Any comments appreciated.

David, ND4Y

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jorge
Diez - CX6VM
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 9:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

Hello

 

I am looking for information about LP-PAN 2 and the P3 SVGA

 

Not understand at all about them, are the same?

 

May I use LP-PAN 2 without P3 or there´s any benefit using both LP-PAN 2 and
P3 

 

Or is better to use just the P3 SVGA

 

Thanks,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W

 

 



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 57

[Marc Veeneman]

While it's not as heavy as its older brother, the Mercury, the key is even more 
stable when it lies on a thin silicone sheet.  

If a silicone sheet, often used as gasket material, is not available, try 
snipping short lengths of silicone tape and placing one under each Hex Key 
foot.  

It works for me and the thinner sheets, 1 mm, allow the least side to side 
movement.

I hope this helps you, or your buyer.
-- 
Marc  W8SDG




> On Oct 14, 2015, at 10:30 PM, KC6CNN  wrote:
> 
> I have a Special Edition Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 057. 
> This key is too light for my heavy hands. 
> I am offering it for sale or trade and wanted to give the Elecraft List
> first shot at it. 
> So Make a offer* OFF LIST* of either the amount you would pay or key you
> would want to trade.
> Thank you
> Gerald - KC6CNN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> KC6CNN - Gerald
> K2 # 5486
> K3 # 6294
> KX3 # 757
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-Hex-Key-Serial-57-tp7609095.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Internal 2M xvtr in K3s

[Glen Torr]

Hi Howard,
Mine will give only just about 5 W out as well. Quite disappointing.
Cheers,
Glen VK1FB

On Thursday, October 15, 2015, Howard Sherer  wrote:

> Just setting up my K3s
> The 2M xvtr will only give me about 5W max output not 10W. This was a
> factory installed option, and I don't want to go through a re cal right
> away.
>
> I also need to be able to adjust the 2M output from 1-10 W as a driver for
> my PA for EME. I find that the power adj on the K3s only allows me to
> reduce the full output of 5W to 0 as one step as i reduce the IF drive
> level in small amounts. So the 2M output is either 0 or 5W with little
> adjustment between.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Howard AE3T
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

LP-Pan is just a piece of hardware, and has no connection with COM ports.
However, the software application that shows you the panadapter display 
on the computer will usually use a COM port to indicate the frequency on 
the display and may have some other rig control functions.
Note that a com port is not *required* for the panadapter display 
portion, only a soundcard is needed for that - however, that panadapter 
display becomes more useful if the frequency is collected from the rig 
via the COM port.


One application at a time is able to use a physical COM port, but there 
are software applications that provide virtual port replication - like 
LP-Bridge.
LP-bridge connects to the COM port used by the transceiver and other 
applications that also need to 'talk' to the transceiver connect to the 
virtual ports of LP-Bridge.


An alternative to LP-Bridge is Win4K3suite which does the same port 
"expansion" function in a slightly different manner.  Also Google for 
"virtual COM port" for other alternatives.


You will find more information on LP-Pan and LP-Bridge on the 
www.telepostinc.com website and on the LP-Pan Yahoo group.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2015 6:10 AM, David Smith wrote:

I have an additional question in addition to Jorge.  I recently installed my
LPAN2 (I do not have a P3).

My question is that can I run my LPAN2 at the same time I run N1MM+.   I
tried and got a port conflict the with K3.  Also, I run SO2R with 2 K3s and
never made it that far to check additional port conflicts as I didn't make
it past the first port conflict.




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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Ken]

David,

I'm using LPB2 (LP Bridge) to handle the serial port  access. FWIW, I 
use DX Lab Commander for multi rig use.   That works especially well for 
allowing either rig (K3 or Flex 6300) access control to the KAT-500 
tuner as well as logging software, fldigi, etc.


Ken WA8JXM

On 10/15/15 6:10 AM, David Smith wrote:

I have an additional question in addition to Jorge.  I recently installed my
LPAN2 (I do not have a P3).

My question is that can I run my LPAN2 at the same time I run N1MM+.   I
tried and got a port conflict the with K3.  Also, I run SO2R with 2 K3s and
never made it that far to check additional port conflicts as I didn't make
it past the first port conflict.

Any comments appreciated.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3s USB com questions

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

Go to Windows "System" and then "Device Manager" and open "Ports (COM & 
LPT)".  You should find "USB Serial Port (Comm xx)" where "xx" is the 
COM port presently being used by the radio.   Double click on the port 
being used by the radio.  Make the changes to port number an speed as 
you need.  In my K3S configuration the computer sees the radio as COM 5 
and the port speed is 38400.  After doing this you may need to re-boot 
the computer for the changes to take effect.


73
Bob, K4TAX

On 10/15/2015 6:14 AM, Howard Sherer wrote:

I am just setting up my K3s and have 2 questions regarding the USB com use.

The com port that is assigned to my K3s is com 27. This com port is NOT
listed as one that is available on some of the programs that i use, where
it IS shown on some of the programs. And ideas on a workaround?

Also the comp post data rate is 9600 and is a bit slow for some
applications. any way to speed this up?

Howard AE3T



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[Elecraft] K3s USB com questions

[Howard Sherer]

I am just setting up my K3s and have 2 questions regarding the USB com use.

The com port that is assigned to my K3s is com 27. This com port is NOT
listed as one that is available on some of the programs that i use, where
it IS shown on some of the programs. And ideas on a workaround?

Also the comp post data rate is 9600 and is a bit slow for some
applications. any way to speed this up?

Howard AE3T
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Art Hejduk]

Jorge,

I went the cheapest route, and it works quite well.  I use a softrock lite
II which cost $21.  I needed a stereo sound card for my laptop, so I
ordered a USB sound card for around $14 from Amazon.  I later changed to a
Xonar U5 sound card, which cost $60 after a $10 rebate.  It is a better
sound card, but honestly, the $14 sound card was more than sufficient for
my needs.  The Xonar U5 gives twice the viewed spectrum compared with the
$14 sound card, but when I operate CW, which is most of the time, I don't
view more than about 60kHz anyway.  Adding an enclosure for a couple of
dollars from Radio Shack makes the whole package cost under $100 (using the
more expensive $60 sound card).  I use NaP3 software with this setup..

By the way, my first experience with a panadapter was with HDSDR and a
Peaberry V2 transceiver.  Since it is an SDR, I tried connecting the
Peaberry V2 to my K3 IF output, and it worked great as a panadapter using
NaP3,  I then decided to buy the softrock lite II to free up the Peaberry
V2 since I didn't want to dedicate it to being just an SDR receiver in this
application.

A great part of the fun for me is getting a project working.  This is
certainly not as easy as buying a P3 and plugging it in, but it is much
cheaper, and not all that difficult.

73,
Art  WB8ENE


On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 9:01 PM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM 
wrote:

> Hello
>
>
>
> I am looking for information about LP-PAN 2 and the P3 SVGA
>
>
>
> Not understand at all about them, are the same?
>
>
>
> May I use LP-PAN 2 without P3 or there´s any benefit using both LP-PAN 2
> and
> P3
>
>
>
> Or is better to use just the P3 SVGA
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jorge
>
> CX6VM/CW5W
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Jim Brown]

On Wed,10/14/2015 11:33 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
One that is dear to my heart would be an application that quantifies 
splatter and key clicks from crummy signals. 


Properly adjusted, the P3, especially with the SVGA adapter, can do an 
excellent job of displaying wide, dirty signals. Here are some things 
I've done with my P3/SVGA. Also look at my P3 measurements (no SVGA yet) in


http://k9yc.com/K6XXAmpTalk.pdf

Yes, the P3 dynamic range is only about 100 dB and only 80 dB can be 
displayed on screen, but all the serious trash is in the range of 20-50 
dB below the peak of any given signal.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[David Gilbert]

From my point of view there is another consideration at hand here. A 
hardware interface like LP-Pan that provides I-Q signals to a PC sound 
card allows the use of other SDR-type software like CW Skimmer, and 
while CW Skimmer may not be of interest to everyone I believe other 
third party software will eventually show up that would be desirable to me.


One that is dear to my heart would be an application that quantifies 
splatter and key clicks from crummy signals.  I suspect that would be 
difficult for SSB signals, but I can't think of any reason why it 
wouldn't be practical for CW.


Another possibility might be an app that profiles propagation over time 
based upon received callsigns with the rig otherwise unattended.


The P3 is a panadapter, and by all accounts a very good one ... but an 
LP-Pan with the right software could be much more.


73,
Dave   AB7E

p.s.  As far as I know, the P3 has to generate its own I-Q signals 
internally.  I've never understood why Elecraft didn't provide them as 
buffered outputs from the P3 to make it more versatile.  Somebody please 
correct me if I'm wrong here.




On 10/14/2015 9:07 PM, Matthew Cook wrote:

Jorge,

Don has given you a good summary of the two devices.

When considering the PC path you should be aware that there is more
opportunity to receive and display a much wider bandwidth than either the
P3 or LP-Pan can provide.  At the moment both the P3 and LP-Pan are limited
to 200kHz and 192kHz of bandwidth respectively.  So they can see +/-100kHz
or so either side of the  current VCO frequency at full span.  This is
great for giving you situational awareness of who and what is happening
either side of your VCO frequency.

However if you own a Software Defined Radio and have a transverter
interface in your Elecraft rig, you can take full advantage of the RX Loop
terminals and insert a RF splitter like this (
http://www.minicircuits.com/pdfs/ZSC-2-1.pdf).   With this setup it means
that signals come in off your antenna are routed out the RX Loop out
terminal and in to the splitter; one path then turns back into the radio
through the RF Loop In terminals (albeit with a 3.6dB loss) and the other
path can be taken off to the SDR. You need to purchase the RX Splitter
separately ~US$20-40 off ebay.

This splitter effectively puts both your SDR and K3/K3s receivers in
parallel fed off the same antenna, just keep in mind that signal levels
into both the Rx and SDR will be half an S-point lower due to the spliter
insertion loss.   If signals fade or are weak, you can switch the RX loop
out of circuit and bypass the splitter, handy trick on a K3 since there's a
button for it. My favourite button actually.

So the hidden benefits of an external SDR in liu of the P3 and LP-Pan are;

- ability to monitor another band and wait for it to open
   - watch for 10m activity while 15m is running
   - keep an eye on 6m while playing on HF
- Youi can achieve pan-adaptor bandwidths greater than 200kHz
- Watch an entire band for activity at once BW > 400kHz

The downside however is that the SDR's that can survive strong signals
without turning up their toes will cost you hundreds of dollars, theres
more software work and jigging and poking of software to get them to go.

It is also possible with a tiny bit more software work to have the SDR and
K3 frequencies and mode track, which means you get mouse control over the
K3 where you can click on the SDR waterfall on the PC and have the K3 track
the SDR, you can also have the SDR change bands when you press the Band
Keys on the K3.

I personally find that with a good SDR I've not felt the need for the
second RX option in my K3 yet.   I do however use a RFSpace Cloud-IQ that
can monitor 1.8MHz with a reasonable dynamic range.  Previously I've used
the RFSpace SDR-IQ and Funcube Dongle Pro plus, results with both were
excellent.   I prefer SDR Radio for my pan-adaptor.  We've used this setup
in our multi-multi contest QRO contest station for a number of years, 24"
portrait pan-adaptor displays are now common in our club.

However as Don has already mentioned, you need to decide on a PC (LP-Pan or
SDR) or no PC path (P3).

There is alot of fun to be had with an external SDR too if you want to push
the boundary.  All of the devices discussed work as described, I don't
think you'll be disappointed which ever way you go.  I will however be
selling my LP-Pan2 adaptor in the not too distant future.

I hope that the above helps.  YMMV.

73

Matthew
VK5ZM

On 15 October 2015 at 13:24, Don Wilhelm  wrote:


Jorge,

The goal of both the P3 and LP-Pan (with PC software) is the same -- to
give you a panadapter display of the IF output of the K3 (K3S) or any other
radio.

The P3 does it by direct digital means and displays the resulting spectrum
and waterfall on the native screen.  With the SVGA option, it can display
the same information on a larger SVGA monitor - no computer is involved.

[Elecraft] KX3 + fldigi (PSK31)

[Kyle Krieg]

Hello all. I've looked through the help topics and didn't see my issue
asked or resolved, so I'll ask it here, as I'm a digital newbie...

Using up to date fldigi on a Windows Vista laptop.  Signalink USB modem.
KX3.  Hamlib for rig control within fldigi.

I hook everything up, put the radio in DATA A mode and follow the
instructions on this webpage
https://k4mtx.wordpress.com/2013/04/11/kx3-fldigi-setup/

My questions are

1) I don't see the whole 3khz waterfall.  My filters are wide open, but
there is around 750hz missing towards the bottom of my waterfall.  Is that
normal?  My waterfall ends abruptly at 3khz, so I know it's working and I'm
able to see other stations transmitting and it's decoding on fldigi.

2) When I transmit, I'm not able to adjust my ALC, which in the webpage
above, I should be able to adjust that? It looks like that option is turned
off in Data A mode?

3) Should my transmit signal be spilling out of my yellow bars when I
transmit, or am I over driving my signal?

4) After I get done transmitting (audible tones), it hangs with the TX red
light on and does not automatically go into receive mode.  I have to hit my
XMIT button to return to receive.  Then I can see my waterfall.  I've
checked my macros and they all end with .  I'm sure there is a setting
I'm not seeing.

Thanks for the responses!
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[Elecraft] Windows and Print Screen

[Paul Kirley]

There have been some posts where it was asserted that pushing the Print
Screen key fails in Windows.  

This is not quite correct:  pushing the Print Screen key in Windows
puts a copy of the current screen onto the Clipboard, which can then be
pasted into any picture-editing software, like the Windows accessory
Paint.  

>From there it can be edited and saved in your choice of format (like
.jpg), or it can be printed.

If, as is common, a picture of only the currently active window is
desired, Alt-Print Screen puts only that portion of the screen onto the
Clipboard.

I believe that the above is true for all versions of Windows.


73, Paul W8TM

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 57

[Rick Tavan N6XI]

I bought some stuff called something like gooey, sticky pads, probably the
silicone material you're referring to. It is nearly impossible to move a
paddle sitting on these pads, even if you want to!

73,

/Rick N6XI

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:27 AM, Marc Veeneman  wrote:

> While it's not as heavy as its older brother, the Mercury, the key is even
> more stable when it lies on a thin silicone sheet.
>
> If a silicone sheet, often used as gasket material, is not available, try
> snipping short lengths of silicone tape and placing one under each Hex Key
> foot.
>
> It works for me and the thinner sheets, 1 mm, allow the least side to side
> movement.
>
> I hope this helps you, or your buyer.
> --
> Marc  W8SDG
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 14, 2015, at 10:30 PM, KC6CNN  wrote:
> >
> > I have a Special Edition Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 057.
> > This key is too light for my heavy hands.
> > I am offering it for sale or trade and wanted to give the Elecraft List
> > first shot at it.
> > So Make a offer* OFF LIST* of either the amount you would pay or key you
> > would want to trade.
> > Thank you
> > Gerald - KC6CNN
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -
> > KC6CNN - Gerald
> > K2 # 5486
> > K3 # 6294
> > KX3 # 757
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-Hex-Key-Serial-57-tp7609095.html
> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to mhv...@gmail.com
> __
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>



-- 
Rick Tavan N6XI
Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Larry Phipps]

Only one program can connect directly to a serial device like the K3. 
You need to use a port sharing app like LP-Bridge or several others out 
there to allow this to happen. LP-Bridge in this case connects to the 
K3, and lets you create "virtual" ports for the SDR program, loggers, 
etc. That way, each program thinks it's talking directly to the K3, but 
in fact the virtual port traffic is routed and sequenced within the app 
to get access to the K3 as needed.


Here's a link to my LP-Bridge web page...
http://www.telepostinc.com/LPB.html

Larry N8LP



On 10/15/2015 6:10 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Message: 24
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2015 06:10:13 -0400
From: "David Smith"
To:
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3
Message-ID:<01d10731$aeae5e70$0c0b1b50$@harlanonline.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

I have an additional question in addition to Jorge.  I recently installed my
LPAN2 (I do not have a P3).

My question is that can I run my LPAN2 at the same time I run N1MM+.   I
tried and got a port conflict the with K3.  Also, I run SO2R with 2 K3s and
never made it that far to check additional port conflicts as I didn't make
it past the first port conflict.

Any comments appreciated.

David, ND4Y


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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[ae4pb]

LP-Bridge is not stable on windows 10 used with the newest ham radio deluxe.
It's been reported to be an HRD issue but I've had LPB crash on it's own
without anything else running on windows 10.
It likely needs an update. 

Jerry Moore
CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Larry
Phipps
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 9:08 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

Only one program can connect directly to a serial device like the K3. 
You need to use a port sharing app like LP-Bridge or several others out
there to allow this to happen. LP-Bridge in this case connects to the K3,
and lets you create "virtual" ports for the SDR program, loggers, etc. That
way, each program thinks it's talking directly to the K3, but in fact the
virtual port traffic is routed and sequenced within the app to get access to
the K3 as needed.

Here's a link to my LP-Bridge web page...
http://www.telepostinc.com/LPB.html

Larry N8LP



On 10/15/2015 6:10 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> Message: 24
> Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2015 06:10:13 -0400
> From: "David Smith" 
> To:
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3 
> Message-ID:<01d10731$aeae5e70$0c0b1b50$@harlanonline.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I have an additional question in addition to Jorge.  I recently 
> installed my
> LPAN2 (I do not have a P3).
>
> My question is that can I run my LPAN2 at the same time I run N1MM+.   I
> tried and got a port conflict the with K3.  Also, I run SO2R with 2 
> K3s and never made it that far to check additional port conflicts as I 
> didn't make it past the first port conflict.
>
> Any comments appreciated.
>
> David, ND4Y

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 + fldigi (PSK31)

[Kyle Krieg]

Bob,

Thanks for you reply.  Here are my mixed results.  Some of these items are
solved.

1) My lower limit was set to 0, so I bumped it up to 100hz.  It removed a
small sliver of waterfall on the left hand side, but kept the large black
gap between 0 and ~600hz.  Not sure if that is the way fldigi just displays
waterfalls and that portion of the sideband...

2) Fixed!  I think with your and Don's help, I got this one solved.  Thanks
for your input.

3) I changed my "transmit signal" under Waterfall -> Display to .05, which
is the lowest it will go before 0.  It was set at .10, so one tick to the
left and my transmit waterfall waveform still gets pushed outside the red
waterfall selector.  I adjusted my output level in Windows for my Signalink
down to 25% with still no change in waveform on the waterfall.  Did the
same test on my signalink TX

4) This one is solved.  Your comment about PPT tone and serial port PPT got
me looking at my rig control.  I use hamlib as my rig control, and under
that menu, PPT via Hamlib command was checked. I uncheck that box and now
the radio returns to receive mode after transmitting!  Resolved!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] Windows and Print Screen

[Kevin Stover]

You are correct.
It's the same for Linux as well.

On 10/15/2015 10:08 AM, Paul Kirley wrote:

There have been some posts where it was asserted that pushing the Print
Screen key fails in Windows.

This is not quite correct:  pushing the Print Screen key in Windows
puts a copy of the current screen onto the Clipboard, which can then be
pasted into any picture-editing software, like the Windows accessory
Paint.

>From there it can be edited and saved in your choice of format (like
.jpg), or it can be printed.

If, as is common, a picture of only the currently active window is
desired, Alt-Print Screen puts only that portion of the screen onto the
Clipboard.

I believe that the above is true for all versions of Windows.


73, Paul W8TM





--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441

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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[David Gilbert]

OK ... thanks for the clarification.

Dave   AB7E


On 10/15/2015 1:13 PM, Alan wrote:

On 10/14/2015 11:33 PM, David Gilbert wrote:


p.s.  As far as I know, the P3 has to generate its own I-Q signals
internally.  I've never understood why Elecraft didn't provide them as
buffered outputs from the P3 to make it more versatile. Somebody please
correct me if I'm wrong here.


The P3 does convert the IF signal to I and Q, but it is all done 
digitally.  To get analog I/Q out of the P3 would require adding a 
dual DAC (digital to analog converter) and some kind of anti-alias 
filter that would handle the variable sample rate.


Alan

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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Jorge Diez - CX6VM]

Hi Steve

 

Well, PC will be a issue, I not have good PC´s with the radio. Just Dual core 
and not new, I am using two Dell 630 

 

Thanks for the advise

 

De: Steve Lund [mailto:k6um.el...@gmail.com] 
Enviado el: jueves, 15 de octubre de 2015 01:47 p.m.
Para: Jorge Diez - CX6VM
CC: Elecraft Reflector
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

 

Jorge,

There is a good comparison chart for the LP-PAN vs P3 on the telepostinc 
website (http://www.telepostinc.com/).

I recently got my LP-PAN working with NaP3. No one has commented about pc 
requirements. I originally tried to use LP-PAN with my single core XP pc. While 
it ran, the cpu load was 100% and no other software could be run with it. I 
recently upgraded to a 4 core 64 bit Win7Pro pc. The cpu load is around 20% 
with LP-PAN running along with my logging and packetcluster software. You'll 
also want a large monitor (or put a dual monitor card in the pc) as once you 
get hooked on LP-PAN, you'll always have it running!

The only advantage I see for the P3 is that a computer is not required.

Steve, K6UM

 

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:40 AM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM  
wrote:

THANKS for all the replies, very clear to understand!

And also need to use N1mm like Davis, hope I can do it

Thanks,
Jorge


-Mensaje original-
De: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] En nombre de David
Smith
Enviado el: jueves, 15 de octubre de 2015 07:10 a.m.
Para: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3


I have an additional question in addition to Jorge.  I recently installed my
LPAN2 (I do not have a P3).

My question is that can I run my LPAN2 at the same time I run N1MM+.   I
tried and got a port conflict the with K3.  Also, I run SO2R with 2 K3s and
never made it that far to check additional port conflicts as I didn't make
it past the first port conflict.

Any comments appreciated.

David, ND4Y

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jorge
Diez - CX6VM
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 9:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

Hello



I am looking for information about LP-PAN 2 and the P3 SVGA



Not understand at all about them, are the same?



May I use LP-PAN 2 without P3 or there´s any benefit using both LP-PAN 2 and
P3



Or is better to use just the P3 SVGA



Thanks,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W







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Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Fred Jensen]

Yes, and I remember when the kinks were introduced.  Through-hole 
4-layer circuit board for a vehicular and aircraft application, I gave 
one of our prototypes that had been auto-stuffed to our Mech E. and told 
him to put it into his shake-and-bake, and show me the vibration spectra 
when the parts fell off.  Every single one of the kinked caps flew off 
at well below our contract vibration specs.


I don't subject my K2 to anything like that, but I have dropped my pack 
a couple of times [and knew I would], and I straightened all the leads 
and put the caps right down on the board when I built it.  It's a little 
more work, I figured it was worth it.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 10/15/2015 8:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

The "kinks" were introduced by the manufacturer so the leads would drop
right into standard pc-board hole spacings by automated board stuffing
machines. The assembly manuals identify those caps where it is important to
have the shortest possible lead lengths. Otherwise there is not a lot to be
gained by straightening the leads and forcing the cap into place.

73, Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] 630 meter and the K3

[Merv Schweigert]

630M has been very active and plenty of good signals on the band,
I use an "old" K3 with new Synth and BPF and it has been working
excellent,   output is 1MW driving a 100watt NJD technologies amp.

For the past week or more i have been able to decode signals from
VK3ELV and VK5ABN for hours at a stretch,  from 1130Z until sunrise
here at 1630Z.  Vk has also been copied as far as the west coast
and inland as far as Texas.
I also decoded the first JA to KH6 it appears the other nite and again
last nite.  ja1pkg
Stations are copied as far as the mainland east coast.  And this is with
solar storms and heavy QRN here in the Pacific.
I am using a standard realtec on board sound card in a old HP3130 and
getting decodes up to -32 on a regular basis.

If you have the slightest interest in the low bands and WSPR its time
to take a listen,  also 136KHZ has been active and activity is increasing
there as well,  check the online WSPR map and see the activity around
the world on LF 136khz and MF 474.2khz.

Dx is alive and well on 630 meters,  jump in and get your feet wet, but
remember you cannot transmit there as yet without a experimental
license,   but decoding and reporting WSPR is fine with your ham call.
Or if you get bit by the LF bug you can apply for experimental call sign
and operate, its easy to do.

73 Merv K9FD/KH6  WH2XCR
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 57

[KC6CNN]

That's why I love my K8ra P5 big dog. 7 lbs. Solid brass key with rosewood
handles.
I was hoping to sell the Elecraft key. I have my P5 paddle and a Begali
Blade Straight key.

73's Gerald KC6CNN
On Oct 15, 2015 9:59 PM, "ac5p [via Elecraft]" <
ml-node+s365791n760914...@n2.nabble.com> wrote:

> Hard to imagine the big ugly(IMO) hex key being "too light" to stay in
> place?  It must be due to poor surface contact with the bottom of the foot
> pads.  The suggested methods should work well as should small squares of
> double faced mounting tape under the pads.
> Mike  AC5P
>
>
>  On Thursday, October 15, 2015 5:43 PM, Marc Veeneman <[hidden email]
> > wrote:
>
>
>  That's the stuff!  If is isn't gooey and sticky, yet does not leave
> residue, it's probably not silicone.
>
> Some pieces are sold as dashboard holders for GPS devices or cell phones,
> but they often have embossing or raised edges or some other impediment to
> full-on paddle holding power.  And some are just rubber or neoprene.  You
> want the real thing.
>
> It's also the stuff Elecraft are considering for KX3 feet, instead of
> neoprene.
> --
> Marc  W8SDG
>
>
> > On Oct 15, 2015, at 11:51 AM, Rick Tavan N6XI <[hidden email]
> > wrote:
> >
> > I bought some stuff called something like gooey, sticky pads, probably
> the silicone material you're referring to. It is nearly impossible to move
> a paddle sitting on these pads, even if you want to!
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > /Rick N6XI
> >
> >> On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:27 AM, Marc Veeneman <[hidden email]
> > wrote:
> >> While it's not as heavy as its older brother, the Mercury, the key is
> even more stable when it lies on a thin silicone sheet.
> >>
> >> If a silicone sheet, often used as gasket material, is not available,
> try snipping short lengths of silicone tape and placing one under each Hex
> Key foot.
> >>
> >> It works for me and the thinner sheets, 1 mm, allow the least side to
> side movement.
> >>
> >> I hope this helps you, or your buyer.
> >> --
> >> Marc  W8SDG
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> > On Oct 14, 2015, at 10:30 PM, KC6CNN <[hidden email]
> > wrote:
> >> >
> >> > I have a Special Edition Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 057.
> >> > This key is too light for my heavy hands.
> >> > I am offering it for sale or trade and wanted to give the Elecraft
> List
> >> > first shot at it.
> >> > So Make a offer* OFF LIST* of either the amount you would pay or key
> you
> >> > would want to trade.
> >> > Thank you
> >> > Gerald - KC6CNN
> >> >
> >>
> > --
> > Rick Tavan N6XI
> > Truckee, CA
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-
KC6CNN - Gerald
K2 # 5486
K3 # 6294
KX3 # 757
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Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The "kinks" were introduced by the manufacturer so the leads would drop
right into standard pc-board hole spacings by automated board stuffing
machines. The assembly manuals identify those caps where it is important to
have the shortest possible lead lengths. Otherwise there is not a lot to be
gained by straightening the leads and forcing the cap into place. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dauer,
Edward
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 3:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .

Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that have
a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead spacing is
correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If inserted gently
into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that leaves the leads too
long, I think, contrary to the principle that short leads avoid stray
couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to ³dekink² the legs with
needle-nose pliers - straightening them out, allowing the body of the cap to
sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to pull the leads through the PCB
until the kinks snap through and come out the other side.  That sounds
neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting stress on the capacitor itself.
What¹s the best way to do this?  And why are those kinks there in the first
place?

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[James Bennett]

Ted - been there! I de-kink mine before placing them on the board.

Jim Bennett / W6JHB
Folsom, CA

> On Oct 15, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .
> 
> Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
> have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead
> spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If
> inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that
> leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
> leads avoid stray couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to
> ³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
> allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to
> pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
> the other side.  That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
> stress on the capacitor itself.  What¹s the best way to do this?  And why
> are those kinks there in the first place?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

Use your long nose pliers to "de-kink" the leads before inserting into 
the board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2015 6:42 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .

Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead
spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If
inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that
leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
leads avoid stray couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to
³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to
pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
the other side.  That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
stress on the capacitor itself.  What¹s the best way to do this?  And why
are those kinks there in the first place?




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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Robert G Strickland]

I second the option of sticking with W7. W10 does a lot of things that I 
just don't need. Why fix what isn't broken.

...robert

On 10/15/2015 14:18, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jer,

Try HRD version 5 which does not use unicode.  Or use something other
than HRD.  HRD does a lot of polling of the K3 and ties up computer
resources.
LP-Bridge currently does not support Unicode, but I understand Larry is
working on it.

OTOH, you may want to revert to Windows 7 where all is stable. Yeah, the
propaganda from Microsoft would say that there is not a problem with
Windows 10, but users reports indicate otherwise. Support for Win7 is
available through 2020, so I am sticking with Win7 for now.  No sense in
messing with what is currently working.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2015 9:43 AM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

LP-Bridge is not stable on windows 10 used with the newest ham radio
deluxe.
It's been reported to be an HRD issue but I've had LPB crash on it's own
without anything else running on windows 10.
It likely needs an update.




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--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 57

[ac5p]

Hard to imagine the big ugly(IMO) hex key being "too light" to stay in place?  
It must be due to poor surface contact with the bottom of the foot pads.  The 
suggested methods should work well as should small squares of double faced 
mounting tape under the pads.  
Mike  AC5P   


 On Thursday, October 15, 2015 5:43 PM, Marc Veeneman  
wrote:
   

 That's the stuff!  If is isn't gooey and sticky, yet does not leave residue, 
it's probably not silicone.

Some pieces are sold as dashboard holders for GPS devices or cell phones, but 
they often have embossing or raised edges or some other impediment to full-on 
paddle holding power.  And some are just rubber or neoprene.  You want the real 
thing.

It's also the stuff Elecraft are considering for KX3 feet, instead of neoprene.
-- 
Marc  W8SDG


> On Oct 15, 2015, at 11:51 AM, Rick Tavan N6XI  wrote:
> 
> I bought some stuff called something like gooey, sticky pads, probably the 
> silicone material you're referring to. It is nearly impossible to move a 
> paddle sitting on these pads, even if you want to!
> 
> 73,
> 
> /Rick N6XI
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:27 AM, Marc Veeneman  wrote:
>> While it's not as heavy as its older brother, the Mercury, the key is even 
>> more stable when it lies on a thin silicone sheet.
>> 
>> If a silicone sheet, often used as gasket material, is not available, try 
>> snipping short lengths of silicone tape and placing one under each Hex Key 
>> foot.
>> 
>> It works for me and the thinner sheets, 1 mm, allow the least side to side 
>> movement.
>> 
>> I hope this helps you, or your buyer.
>> --
>> Marc  W8SDG
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> > On Oct 14, 2015, at 10:30 PM, KC6CNN  wrote:
>> >
>> > I have a Special Edition Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 057.
>> > This key is too light for my heavy hands.
>> > I am offering it for sale or trade and wanted to give the Elecraft List
>> > first shot at it.
>> > So Make a offer* OFF LIST* of either the amount you would pay or key you
>> > would want to trade.
>> > Thank you
>> > Gerald - KC6CNN
>> >
>> 
> -- 
> Rick Tavan N6XI
> Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] Windows and Print Screen

[Jerry Moore]

Found the option in HRD that was mentioned on the thread to save the settings, 
you can save /Edit/update. I don't know if it's everything.  I'm still writing 
something. If nothing else it's an excuse to write something useful to learn. 

On October 15, 2015 7:25:44 PM EDT, Kevin Stover  
wrote:
>You are correct.
>It's the same for Linux as well.
>
>On 10/15/2015 10:08 AM, Paul Kirley wrote:
>> There have been some posts where it was asserted that pushing the
>Print
>> Screen key fails in Windows.
>>
>> This is not quite correct:  pushing the Print Screen key in Windows
>> puts a copy of the current screen onto the Clipboard, which can then
>be
>> pasted into any picture-editing software, like the Windows accessory
>> Paint.
>>
>> >From there it can be edited and saved in your choice of format (like
>> .jpg), or it can be printed.
>>
>> If, as is common, a picture of only the currently active window is
>> desired, Alt-Print Screen puts only that portion of the screen onto
>the
>> Clipboard.
>>
>> I believe that the above is true for all versions of Windows.
>>
>>
>> 73, Paul W8TM
>>
>>
>
>
>-- 
>R. Kevin Stover
>AC0H
>ARRL
>FISTS #11993
>SKCC #215
>NAQCC #3441
>
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-- 
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Alan]

On 10/14/2015 11:33 PM, David Gilbert wrote:


p.s.  As far as I know, the P3 has to generate its own I-Q signals
internally.  I've never understood why Elecraft didn't provide them as
buffered outputs from the P3 to make it more versatile.  Somebody please
correct me if I'm wrong here.


The P3 does convert the IF signal to I and Q, but it is all done 
digitally.  To get analog I/Q out of the P3 would require adding a dual 
DAC (digital to analog converter) and some kind of anti-alias filter 
that would handle the variable sample rate.


Alan

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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Keyboard list URL / feedback about non-working KB

[Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)]

FWIW and I don't know if that keyboard is available in the US: I have 
tested a Rapoo model E9070 wireless ultra slim keyboard with a 5GHz 
"dongle" that works, as far as I can see, very good. Of course there are 
no S/C/N lights but the keys respond as expected. I bought mine in a 
local e-store for 25 euros. Putting the KX3/PX3 side-by-side, this 
keyboard is exactly as wide as the two... And it has an on/off switch.


73,
Peter


Op 2015-10-15 22:50 schreef David Orman:

I looked at the one PDF I saw linked and all were full-sized keyboards. I'm
looking for something smaller for backpacking. Roger K. mailed (thanks!)
about an Anker wireless that works, but I'm looking for other options
(Anker doesn't have an on/off switch so I worry about putting it in a
backpack) before I make a final decision.

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[Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Dauer, Edward]

If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .

Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead
spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If
inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that
leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
leads avoid stray couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to
³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to
pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
the other side.  That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
stress on the capacitor itself.  What¹s the best way to do this?  And why
are those kinks there in the first place?

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and K3/0 Mini

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Bill,

Coincindentally that very topic was discussed on this reflector several days
ago. You may find some of the discussion interesting.

Here's a link to the Elecraft manual:
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3%20Remote%20Owner's%20Manual%20%20Rev%20D.pdf

Here's a link to the RRC devices website. From there you can jump on a user
forum and also download their manual.
http://www.remoterig.com/wp/

73,
Mike K2MK


Bill Gaines wrote
> I inherited a K3 and the K3/0 mini. Did the K3/0 mini come with a manual
> and instructions on how to interface the two together over the internet? I
> just need to know where to start looking for info and guidance.
> 
> Bill AD8P





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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 + fldigi (PSK31)

[Don Wilhelm]

Kyle,

I watched the video.

For the lack of waterfall, check the Low Cut on your KX3.  I suspect it 
is set to about 600 Hz - meaning that you are not getting audio response 
out of the KX3 below that frequency.


For the problem of not going back into receive, it could be either the 
SignaLink holding PTT active (the most likely) or a problem with the KX3 
or the PTT cable.
After your next trial, unplug the PTT cable from the SignaLink and see 
if the KX3 goes back to receive - if so, the SignaLink has a problem 
with its PTT output.


I do not have details on the SignaLink cables for the KX3.  Does the 
SignaLink PTT signal come in on the MIC jack?  or does it use the ACC2 GPIO?
If it uses the ACC2 GPIO, do you have the KX3 menu ACC2 GPIO parameter 
set for PTT?


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2015 3:18 PM, Kyle Krieg wrote:

Don,

Thanks for the reply!

Your correct about the ALC.  I didn't have my TX level set high enough 
on my signalink modem.  Once I turned that up, 4 bars, with the 5th 
flashing was present, so I think I'm good with that item.  Thanks!!!


Instead of typing an email for the remaining items, I just made a 
video and put it up on youtube.  It will show the KX3 TX red light 
still being lit after fldigi is done sending along with the waterfall 
issue I'm seeing with no filters applied.  Maybe seeing this vs 
reading will spark some solutions.


https://youtu.be/qfUnyQsrgzM




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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 57

[Marc Veeneman]

That's the stuff!  If is isn't gooey and sticky, yet does not leave residue, 
it's probably not silicone.

Some pieces are sold as dashboard holders for GPS devices or cell phones, but 
they often have embossing or raised edges or some other impediment to full-on 
paddle holding power.  And some are just rubber or neoprene.  You want the real 
thing.

It's also the stuff Elecraft are considering for KX3 feet, instead of neoprene.
-- 
Marc  W8SDG


> On Oct 15, 2015, at 11:51 AM, Rick Tavan N6XI  wrote:
> 
> I bought some stuff called something like gooey, sticky pads, probably the 
> silicone material you're referring to. It is nearly impossible to move a 
> paddle sitting on these pads, even if you want to!
> 
> 73,
> 
> /Rick N6XI
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:27 AM, Marc Veeneman  wrote:
>> While it's not as heavy as its older brother, the Mercury, the key is even 
>> more stable when it lies on a thin silicone sheet.
>> 
>> If a silicone sheet, often used as gasket material, is not available, try 
>> snipping short lengths of silicone tape and placing one under each Hex Key 
>> foot.
>> 
>> It works for me and the thinner sheets, 1 mm, allow the least side to side 
>> movement.
>> 
>> I hope this helps you, or your buyer.
>> --
>> Marc  W8SDG
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> > On Oct 14, 2015, at 10:30 PM, KC6CNN  wrote:
>> >
>> > I have a Special Edition Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 057.
>> > This key is too light for my heavy hands.
>> > I am offering it for sale or trade and wanted to give the Elecraft List
>> > first shot at it.
>> > So Make a offer* OFF LIST* of either the amount you would pay or key you
>> > would want to trade.
>> > Thank you
>> > Gerald - KC6CNN
>> >
>> 
> -- 
> Rick Tavan N6XI
> Truckee, CA
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[Elecraft] PX3 Keyboard list URL / feedback about non-working KB

[David Orman]

Hi,

I've seen the various posts on this/yahoo mailing list regarding KBs that
work with the PX3 (tested). Having tried Insignia keyboards that appear to
work at first, but key-presses sometimes don't go through, sometimes
hitting 'esc' doesn't stop transmissions, etc - only noticed after multiple
QSO attempts - I'd like to pick up something that's "known good". FWIW,
with the Insignia, the num lock/caps lock/scroll lock lights would
intermittently turn on/off, and it wasn't predictable when the PX3 would
stop responding to input from it, nor when it would suddenly start working
again. Hope that helps someone looking for KBs.

I looked at the one PDF I saw linked and all were full-sized keyboards. I'm
looking for something smaller for backpacking. Roger K. mailed (thanks!)
about an Anker wireless that works, but I'm looking for other options
(Anker doesn't have an on/off switch so I worry about putting it in a
backpack) before I make a final decision.

Is there a URL where the compatibility list will be stored/kept updated?

Thank you for this wonderful feature Elecraft, and everyone else for all of
the KB compatibility updates,
David/K5DJO
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Re: [Elecraft] Internal 2M xvtr in K3s

[Dave]

As supplied, both my k3 internal transverters with my K3 (notS) produced
6.5w at 145Mhz and 8.5W at 147MHz. After discussion with Elecraft support,
and some coil squeezing both now produce 9w at 144.3Mhz (enough to drive my
LDMOS amp) and 6w at 147MHz (not a problem as the upper part of the band is
now of no interest)

What is more annoying with the internal xverter is that the power knob when
fully clockwise produces 9W,  but when fully counterclockwise it still
produces 1W (ie you cant reduce it to zero). (on no other band on a k3 can
you not reduce the output to zero) If you set the xv power to -10dB fully,
counterclockwise produces 0 output power but 1 "notch" clockwise and all
higher settings produces 1W. The XV 1mW also has the same dynamic range
issue. The problem was raised with Elecraft support a year ago but the
solution is still awaited

Dave
G4FRE  

Just setting up my K3s
The 2M xvtr will only give me about 5W max output not 10W. This was a
factory installed option, and I don't want to go through a re cal right
away.

I also need to be able to adjust the 2M output from 1-10 W as a driver for
my PA for EME. I find that the power adj on the K3s only allows me to
reduce the full output of 5W to 0 as one step as i reduce the IF drive
level in small amounts. So the 2M output is either 0 or 5W with little
adjustment between.

Any ideas?

Howard AE3T



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[Elecraft] K3 and K3/0 Mini

[Bill Gaines]

I inherited a K3 and the K3/0 mini. Did the K3/0 mini come with a manual and 
instructions on how to interface the two together over the internet? I just 
need to know where to start looking for info and guidance.

Bill AD8P

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and K3/0 Mini

[Phil Wheeler]

This might be a good start, Bill:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3%20Remote%20Owner's%20Manual%20%20Rev%20D.pdf

73, Phil W7OX

On 10/15/15 2:14 PM, Bill Gaines wrote:

I inherited a K3 and the K3/0 mini. Did the K3/0 mini come with a manual and 
instructions on how to interface the two together over the internet? I just 
need to know where to start looking for info and guidance.

Bill AD8P


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Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Vic Rosenthal]

But hold the capacitor by the lead, not by its body, when you do this. You 
don't want to accidentally apply twisting force between the lead and the 
capacitor.
I learned this the hard way when I built my K2 and I still remember it!

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 16 Oct 2015, at 1:50 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Ted,
> 
> Use your long nose pliers to "de-kink" the leads before inserting into the 
> board.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 10/15/2015 6:42 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>> If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .
>> 
>> Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
>> have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead
>> spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If
>> inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that
>> leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
>> leads avoid stray couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to
>> ³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
>> allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to
>> pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
>> the other side.  That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
>> stress on the capacitor itself.  What¹s the best way to do this?  And why
>> are those kinks there in the first place?
> 
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[Elecraft] W6SFM Bug Roundup Event is coming!

[w6...@w6sfm.com]

Announcing W6SFM's BUG ROUNDUP 

The Samuel F. Morse Amateur Radio Club, a Sacramento, California based 
CW enthusiast club wanted a special time to bring bug operators together 
on the air. In the same spirit as ARRL's Straight Key Night, 
participants are encouraged to make simple, conversational, 
"chewing-the-fat" QSOs using their bug type key. This is an opportunity 
to exercise, share and exhibit your personalized fist. This is NOT a 
contest. Simply Call "CQ BR" so folks know you are a Bug Roundup 
Participant. Grab that bug, clean those contacts, and let'er fly! Let's 
hear that "Banana Boat / Lake Erie Swing" or that commercial KPH/WCC 
quality fist.


Reserve the day! Saturday November 21st - Sunday Nov. 22nd, 2015
7:00 AM to 7:00 AM Pacific Time (LOCAL)
1500 UTC through 1500 UTC

For more information and to help assist in spotting, potentially 
increasing QSOs, an On-line chat window link can be found near the 
bottom of Bug Roundup home page located at www.w6sfm.com/Bug_Roundup  We 
hope to hear you all on the air! 73,


W6SFM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO LINK - UNLINK

[Vic Rosenthal]

Are you using any rig-control or logging program? If so, see if it the problem 
happens when the K3 is turned on with the program not running.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 16 Oct 2015, at 7:48 AM, F5vjc  wrote:
> 
> I have my K3 with dual receivers using latest firmware set to, CONFIG : VFO
> LINK set to OFF.
> 
> However, I find when first switching ON the K3,  VFO A and B are linked.
> The way out of this is to press SUB to engage Diversity and press Sub again
> to release Diversity, then A and B are no longer linked.
> 
> I do not want Linked VFO/s.
> 
> Anyone else see this behaviour?
> 
> 
> 73,  Deni - F5VJC
> 
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[Elecraft] K3 VFO LINK - UNLINK

[F5vjc]

I have my K3 with dual receivers using latest firmware set to, CONFIG : VFO
LINK set to OFF.

However, I find when first switching ON the K3,  VFO A and B are linked.
The way out of this is to press SUB to engage Diversity and press Sub again
to release Diversity, then A and B are no longer linked.

I do not want Linked VFO/s.

Anyone else see this behaviour?


73,  Deni - F5VJC
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Re: [Elecraft] New Product Idea - 2 Meter

[Jeff Cathrow]

 I really like the idea of an "Elecraft 736R" deluxe version that would cover 
all the bands from 6M, 2M, 135cm, 70cm to 903 and 1296mHz without the 
complications of outboard transverters, and sequencers.  Imagine!
 
"Introducing the satellite-capable Elecraft KV/U3S;  MSRP $2595 kit/$2950 
factory-built" (realistically, we must make this a totally worthwhile business 
venture for Wayne and Eric in order to gain their attention first and foremost).
 
Put it in a proper (K3S) size enclosure, give it all-mode capabilities and 
decent power---at least 10 watts on the highest bands.
 
While this idea may not seem worthwhile or feasible at first; just imagine the 
commotion it would make in the amateur radio market.   Such a revolutionary rig 
would totally re-invigorate an otherwise dormant segment of amateur radio and 
give new Technician class hams a great rig with many bands to experiment with 
and enjoy.   All of these VHF and above bands are not so affected by the 
sunspot cycle so many could enjoy another realm of DXing, contesting, 
rag-chewing as well as emergency communications if the need arose at any time.
 
I got my ticket in 1996 just so I could chase DX on 6M.  I had so much fun and 
success on 6 (and 144, 222, 432 and 1296 later on) that it wasn't until 2010 
that I upgraded my ticket so as to enjoy HF as well.  
 
With the K3S Elecraft has now taken HF rigs about as far up the refinement 
ladder towards perfection as is possible; now it is time to advance the 
state-of-the-art in the VHF-UHF and microwave arena and get things rolling 
there again.
 
If you build a freeway in the middle of nowhere it won't be long before it 
fills up with traffic;  thus I bet dollars to doughnuts that a KV/U3S rig would 
sell like virtual hotcakes and its presence would stimulate a return to the 
extra short waves in no time at all.
 
I propose that Elecraft put a poll on their website where we could be counted 
as potential purchasers for such a rig.  I'm sure there's a lot of us diehard 
VHFers that would hock our grandmothers to purchase one if it ever came to 
reality! 
 
Hope this idea takes root in Aptos.
 
Optimistically,
 
Jeff,   NH7RO
 
 
 
 
 
 




 
 
  
 

  
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Steve Lund]

Jorge,

There is a good comparison chart for the LP-PAN vs P3 on the telepostinc
website (http://www.telepostinc.com/).

I recently got my LP-PAN working with NaP3. No one has commented about pc
requirements. I originally tried to use LP-PAN with my single core XP pc.
While it ran, the cpu load was 100% and no other software could be run with
it. I recently upgraded to a 4 core 64 bit Win7Pro pc. The cpu load is
around 20% with LP-PAN running along with my logging and packetcluster
software. You'll also want a large monitor (or put a dual monitor card in
the pc) as once you get hooked on LP-PAN, you'll always have it running!

The only advantage I see for the P3 is that a computer is not required.

Steve, K6UM

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:40 AM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM 
wrote:

> THANKS for all the replies, very clear to understand!
>
> And also need to use N1mm like Davis, hope I can do it
>
> Thanks,
> Jorge
>
>
> -Mensaje original-
> De: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] En nombre de David
> Smith
> Enviado el: jueves, 15 de octubre de 2015 07:10 a.m.
> Para: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3
>
> I have an additional question in addition to Jorge.  I recently installed
> my
> LPAN2 (I do not have a P3).
>
> My question is that can I run my LPAN2 at the same time I run N1MM+.   I
> tried and got a port conflict the with K3.  Also, I run SO2R with 2 K3s and
> never made it that far to check additional port conflicts as I didn't make
> it past the first port conflict.
>
> Any comments appreciated.
>
> David, ND4Y
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Jorge
> Diez - CX6VM
> Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 9:01 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3
>
> Hello
>
>
>
> I am looking for information about LP-PAN 2 and the P3 SVGA
>
>
>
> Not understand at all about them, are the same?
>
>
>
> May I use LP-PAN 2 without P3 or there´s any benefit using both LP-PAN 2
> and
> P3
>
>
>
> Or is better to use just the P3 SVGA
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jorge
>
> CX6VM/CW5W
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
> El software de antivirus Avast ha analizado este correo electrónico en
> busca
> de virus.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[David Gilbert]

I was thinking more along the lines of an app that would calculate an 
actual numerical figure of merit.  Something along the lines of:


*  you tune to a signal of interest
*  the app breaks up the surrounding spectrum into 100 Hz windows
*  the app measures the magnitude of the energy in each 100 Hz window 
that is time-correlated to the energy in the center window
*  the app assigns some sort of weighting to the time-correlated energy 
it finds in each 100 Hz window ... further from center gets weighted 
more heavily
*  adding up all the weighted slices of time-correlated energy yields a 
figure of merit


The P3 can identify bad signals but it can't quantify them, and being 
able to objectively quantify them might go a long way toward getting 
some of them off the air.


73,
Dave   AB7E




On 10/15/2015 12:01 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Wed,10/14/2015 11:33 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
One that is dear to my heart would be an application that quantifies 
splatter and key clicks from crummy signals. 


Properly adjusted, the P3, especially with the SVGA adapter, can do an 
excellent job of displaying wide, dirty signals. Here are some things 
I've done with my P3/SVGA. Also look at my P3 measurements (no SVGA 
yet) in


http://k9yc.com/K6XXAmpTalk.pdf

Yes, the P3 dynamic range is only about 100 dB and only 80 dB can be 
displayed on screen, but all the serious trash is in the range of 
20-50 dB below the peak of any given signal.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Ken]

On 10/15/15 12:46 PM, Steve Lund wrote:

You'll also want a large monitor (or put a dual monitor card in
the pc) as once you get hooked on LP-PAN, you'll always have it running!


You don't really need another monitor card on many newer computers.   
Many newer computers have both VGA and DVI outputs. You can connect 
monitors to both of them and have independent screens.


Of course, if you have a panadapter running, plus logging software, dx 
cluster, etc.   two monitors may not be enough!   I just added an 
external USB-to-VGA adapter and hooked up an old LCD TV for a third 
display.


73,
Ken WA8JXM
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 57

[Jim - KE8G]

I, too, am a pretty heavy handed cw buff and have found that you can use a 
piece shelf liner, the kind my XYL uses in the kitchen cabinets & drawers.  
Works fantastic.  Besides, it cleans up easily from any coffee spills!

73 de Jim - KE8G

 Chortek Bob via Elecraft  wrote: 
> I found a thin piece of neoprene works just great to keep a key in place, 
> almost no matter how hard you bang on it!!!  It's like a mouse pad, only 
> thinner and not as large.  A mouse pad works great, too!
My Hex has not moved in over a year, hi!!!
Bob/AA6VB
  From: Rick Tavan N6XI 
 To: Marc Veeneman  
Cc: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:51 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 57
   
I bought some stuff called something like gooey, sticky pads, probably the
silicone material you're referring to. It is nearly impossible to move a
paddle sitting on these pads, even if you want to!

73,

/Rick N6XI

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:27 AM, Marc Veeneman  wrote:

> While it's not as heavy as its older brother, the Mercury, the key is even
> more stable when it lies on a thin silicone sheet.
>
> If a silicone sheet, often used as gasket material, is not available, try
> snipping short lengths of silicone tape and placing one under each Hex Key
> foot.
>
> It works for me and the thinner sheets, 1 mm, allow the least side to side
> movement.
>
> I hope this helps you, or your buyer.
> --
> Marc  W8SDG
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 14, 2015, at 10:30 PM, KC6CNN  wrote:
> >
> > I have a Special Edition Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 057.
> > This key is too light for my heavy hands.
> > I am offering it for sale or trade and wanted to give the Elecraft List
> > first shot at it.
> > So Make a offer* OFF LIST* of either the amount you would pay or key you
> > would want to trade.
> > Thank you
> > Gerald - KC6CNN
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -
> > KC6CNN - Gerald
> > K2 # 5486
> > K3 # 6294
> > KX3 # 757
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-Hex-Key-Serial-57-tp7609095.html
> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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>



-- 
Rick Tavan N6XI
Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] New Product Idea - 2 Meter

[mfsj]

I agree 100% with you and would be a buyer, but Eric closed this thread.
Fred N0AZZ 


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S6 edge+, an AT 4G LTE smartphone 
Original message From: Jeff Cathrow  
Date: 10/15/2015  11:43 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: Elecraft Digest 
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Product Idea - 2 Meter 
 I really like the idea of an "Elecraft 736R" deluxe version that would cover 
all the bands from 6M, 2M, 135cm, 70cm to 903 and 1296mHz without the 
complications of outboard transverters, and sequencers.  Imagine!
 
"Introducing the satellite-capable Elecraft KV/U3S;  MSRP $2595 kit/$2950 
factory-built" (realistically, we must make this a totally worthwhile business 
venture for Wayne and Eric in order to gain their attention first and foremost).
 
Put it in a proper (K3S) size enclosure, give it all-mode capabilities and 
decent power---at least 10 watts on the highest bands.
 
While this idea may not seem worthwhile or feasible at first; just imagine the 
commotion it would make in the amateur radio market.   Such a revolutionary rig 
would totally re-invigorate an otherwise dormant segment of amateur radio and 
give new Technician class hams a great rig with many bands to experiment with 
and enjoy.   All of these VHF and above bands are not so affected by the 
sunspot cycle so many could enjoy another realm of DXing, contesting, 
rag-chewing as well as emergency communications if the need arose at any time.
 
I got my ticket in 1996 just so I could chase DX on 6M.  I had so much fun and 
success on 6 (and 144, 222, 432 and 1296 later on) that it wasn't until 2010 
that I upgraded my ticket so as to enjoy HF as well.  
 
With the K3S Elecraft has now taken HF rigs about as far up the refinement 
ladder towards perfection as is possible; now it is time to advance the 
state-of-the-art in the VHF-UHF and microwave arena and get things rolling 
there again.
 
If you build a freeway in the middle of nowhere it won't be long before it 
fills up with traffic;  thus I bet dollars to doughnuts that a KV/U3S rig would 
sell like virtual hotcakes and its presence would stimulate a return to the 
extra short waves in no time at all.
 
I propose that Elecraft put a poll on their website where we could be counted 
as potential purchasers for such a rig.  I'm sure there's a lot of us diehard 
VHFers that would hock our grandmothers to purchase one if it ever came to 
reality! 
 
Hope this idea takes root in Aptos.
 
Optimistically,
 
Jeff,   NH7RO
 
 
 
 
 
 



    
 
 
  
 

          
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[Elecraft] Hats off to the folks from Elecraft for their support

[kg9hfr...@gmail.com]

So in the past week, I drove about 2,500 miles BEFORE I drove non-stop to Tampa 
yesterday.

Of course I completely tested out my trusty KX3 before I left so…. radio in 
hand we were off to Tampa, driving non-stop and left at 2:30am.

In the first hour, I noticed I had the backlight on and of course the +12DVC 
was not connected so I decided to plug in the DC and top off the battery.
(Batteries about 4 months old.)  Listening to the low end of 40 as I cruised 
along.
Then I got a warning light on the display, and then noticed the radio was hot!

Un-plug, Plug-in, field strip the batteries out, measure everything with DC 
voltmeter from my go-kit I made up, all seemed ok on my end.

A call to the automated Elecraft company (it was well before anyone should be 
there and left a message.)  
Thinking back it was probably kryptic but they figured out what I was trying to 
say.

One of their guys called me back and walked me through the process, I did not 
miss any steps.

Conclusion by Elecraft - probably one dead cell (??!!)

I ran it on the van battery for the balance of the trip, all seemed ok.

Just left Best Buy with new batteries.  All is well.

I guess the batteries I bought from Frys were not as good as I thought.

Could not find any Eneloop batteries in stock so I got Ray-O-Vac 2500mAh 
batteries.
I will be on the air with my Alexoop tonight 14.305 just after Sunset locally.  
All is well. Thank you Elecraft.

Frank KG9H/4 Indian Shores, FL


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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 and P3

[Don Wilhelm]

Jer,

Try HRD version 5 which does not use unicode.  Or use something other 
than HRD.  HRD does a lot of polling of the K3 and ties up computer 
resources.
LP-Bridge currently does not support Unicode, but I understand Larry is 
working on it.


OTOH, you may want to revert to Windows 7 where all is stable. Yeah, the 
propaganda from Microsoft would say that there is not a problem with 
Windows 10, but users reports indicate otherwise. Support for Win7 is 
available through 2020, so I am sticking with Win7 for now.  No sense in 
messing with what is currently working.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2015 9:43 AM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

LP-Bridge is not stable on windows 10 used with the newest ham radio deluxe.
It's been reported to be an HRD issue but I've had LPB crash on it's own
without anything else running on windows 10.
It likely needs an update.




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[Elecraft] Numbers and a plug for VHF+

[Jessie Oberreuter]

On Wed, 14 Oct 2015, Jim Lowman wrote:

At the Elecraft presentation that Eric did at Pacificon last year, I threw 
out this exact idea for his consideration.


Eric was receptive to the concept, but said he didn't think that there would 
be a large enough market for such a transceiver.  He's also the business guy 
with Elecraft, so I have to believe what he said.



 The data supports this conclusion.  At our annual Pacific Northwest 
VHF Society meeting this past weekend, I was surprised to learn just how 
small the population of VHF+ weak-signal operators is.  One ARRL rep noted 
that, from the logs, the 60 or so people in the room represented 15% of 
the national VHF+ weak-signal community.  There are 1042 logs in last 
year's June VHF contest (the most popular of the three); the August UHF 
Contest submitted log count, meanwhile, has been hovering around 160 logs 
for the past several years, and anyone with 2m/70cm HT has enough 
equipment to participate.


 Shortly after getting my license, I moved to Seattle and lived in a 
series of single-room apartments.  I didn't think I could really do radio 
from such places until I discovered both HF QRP and the local weak signal 
VHF community. There is a lot of operating fun to be had on the VHF bands, 
but it generally takes a local community to make it work.  All I ever 
heard was dead air until I stumbled one night into a casual round table on 
144.220, and the rest was history.


 Here in the PNW, we have several weekly nets 
(http://pnwvhfs.org/nets.html) and a community of operators who are 
regularly on for the various sprints and contests.  We also have an active 
email reflector with sprint, contest, and SOTA announcements.  This is a 
vital part of what makes VHF+ work in the PNW.  Yes, the gear is 
important, but a certain amount of human infrastructure and activity is 
also needed.


 If any of you have regular local rag chews on repeaters or even on 
HF, you might want to consider migrating to 2m SSB.  Similarly, 6m makes a 
nice place for local cw practice nets -- it's a great way to get the 
experience of HF operating without the need for large antennas, and when 
the band opens up, your members will be in for a thrill!


-kb7psg

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 + fldigi (PSK31)

[Kyle Krieg]

Don,

Thanks for the reply!

Your correct about the ALC.  I didn't have my TX level set high enough on
my signalink modem.  Once I turned that up, 4 bars, with the 5th flashing
was present, so I think I'm good with that item.  Thanks!!!

Instead of typing an email for the remaining items, I just made a video and
put it up on youtube.  It will show the KX3 TX red light still being lit
after fldigi is done sending along with the waterfall issue I'm seeing with
no filters applied.  Maybe seeing this vs reading will spark some solutions.

https://youtu.be/qfUnyQsrgzM

Kyle



On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 1:09 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Kyle,
>
> Not answering about the receive waterfall because it appears you have some
> other things to clean up first.
>
> The ALC bars are important.  Set the TX audio level correctly so you have
> 4 bars solid and the 5th bar flickering on the ALC meter.
> Too much audio drive will trigger an audio 'overload' in the KX3, so set
> the mic gain to a low level, and set the soundcard line out slider to about
> half to start with.  Make certain the SignaLink is plugged for MIC level,
> and not for LINE level.
> Once you have done that you should be able to transmit.
>
> The KX3 ALC is *not* turned off in DATA A mode - what is turned off is
> compression and the TX EQ settings.
>
> As far as not going back to receive, if you are using the PTT from the
> SignaLink, make sure the KX3 VOX is off.
> Actually, you should be able to operate without the SignaLink PTT output
> and use the KX3 VOX instead, just set the KX3 VOX gain at a level that
> triggers the VOX reliably.  If you are using the SignaLink PTT, it may be
> triggering on noise if you have the 'soundcard' level set too high.  The
> SignaLink PTT is driven by a simplistic VOX circuit in the SignaLink which
> senses audio, and with a high audio level, it cannot differentiate between
> a real signal and noise.
>
> Try manual transmit rather than attempting macros until you get it going.
> You are playing with several variables at once, reduce those to only one or
> two and add one at a time after you get it working.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 10/15/2015 11:43 AM, Kyle Krieg wrote:
>
>> Using up to date fldigi on a Windows Vista laptop.  Signalink USB modem.
>> KX3.  Hamlib for rig control within fldigi.
>>
>> I hook everything up, put the radio in DATA A mode and follow the
>> instructions on this webpage
>> https://k4mtx.wordpress.com/2013/04/11/kx3-fldigi-setup/
>>
>> My questions are
>>
>> 2) When I transmit, I'm not able to adjust my ALC, which in the webpage
>> above, I should be able to adjust that? It looks like that option is
>> turned
>> off in Data A mode?
>>
>> 3) Should my transmit signal be spilling out of my yellow bars when I
>> transmit, or am I over driving my signal?
>>
>> 4) After I get done transmitting (audible tones), it hangs with the TX red
>> light on and does not automatically go into receive mode.  I have to hit
>> my
>> XMIT button to return to receive.  Then I can see my waterfall.  I've
>> checked my macros and they all end with .  I'm sure there is a setting
>> I'm not seeing.
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 + fldigi (PSK31)

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

Item 1. - Go to Config menu then Waterfall menu and then FFT.  Set the 
limit values to 100 Hz Lower Limit and 3000 Hz Upper Limit.


Item 2. - As to TX hanging, I suspect the audio level out of the 
computer is too high, thus the residual noise from the computer is 
tripping the VOX in the SignaLink USB.  I suggest operating the Windows 
Sound mixer as such level the SignaLink PTT LED comes on and is stable. 
  Usually less than 50%.From there adjust the TX Level on the 
SignaLink to get the proper drive to the radio.  In general the TX Level 
on the SignaLink should be about 9 o'clock to 12 o'clock position.  Then 
adjust the gain on the radio to get 4 bars indicated on the ALC scale 
with the 5th bar flickering.


Item 3. - Basically NO.   Go to Config menu then Waterfall menu and then 
Transmit and set the Transmit Signal level to about 0.25 to 0.5.  If you 
see issues there, then likely audio to the radio is too high or the 
computer sound card is being over driven.


Item 4. - Also open the Rig Control panel and make sure that both PTT 
Tone on Right Channel is not checked and that Use Separate Serial Port 
for PTT is not checked.  The SignaLink will supply a PTT command to the 
radio from the internal VOX operation.  Also be sure VOX on the radio is 
off.



73
Bob, K4TAX

 


On 10/15/2015 10:43 AM, Kyle Krieg wrote:

Hello all. I've looked through the help topics and didn't see my issue
asked or resolved, so I'll ask it here, as I'm a digital newbie...

Using up to date fldigi on a Windows Vista laptop.  Signalink USB modem.
KX3.  Hamlib for rig control within fldigi.

I hook everything up, put the radio in DATA A mode and follow the
instructions on this webpage
https://k4mtx.wordpress.com/2013/04/11/kx3-fldigi-setup/

My questions are

1) I don't see the whole 3khz waterfall.  My filters are wide open, but
there is around 750hz missing towards the bottom of my waterfall.  Is that
normal?  My waterfall ends abruptly at 3khz, so I know it's working and I'm
able to see other stations transmitting and it's decoding on fldigi.

2) When I transmit, I'm not able to adjust my ALC, which in the webpage
above, I should be able to adjust that? It looks like that option is turned
off in Data A mode?

3) Should my transmit signal be spilling out of my yellow bars when I
transmit, or am I over driving my signal?

4) After I get done transmitting (audible tones), it hangs with the TX red
light on and does not automatically go into receive mode.  I have to hit my
XMIT button to return to receive.  Then I can see my waterfall.  I've
checked my macros and they all end with .  I'm sure there is a setting
I'm not seeing.



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 57

[Chortek Bob via Elecraft]

I found a thin piece of neoprene works just great to keep a key in place, 
almost no matter how hard you bang on it!!!  It's like a mouse pad, only 
thinner and not as large.  A mouse pad works great, too!
My Hex has not moved in over a year, hi!!!
Bob/AA6VB
  From: Rick Tavan N6XI 
 To: Marc Veeneman  
Cc: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:51 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 57
   
I bought some stuff called something like gooey, sticky pads, probably the
silicone material you're referring to. It is nearly impossible to move a
paddle sitting on these pads, even if you want to!

73,

/Rick N6XI

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:27 AM, Marc Veeneman  wrote:

> While it's not as heavy as its older brother, the Mercury, the key is even
> more stable when it lies on a thin silicone sheet.
>
> If a silicone sheet, often used as gasket material, is not available, try
> snipping short lengths of silicone tape and placing one under each Hex Key
> foot.
>
> It works for me and the thinner sheets, 1 mm, allow the least side to side
> movement.
>
> I hope this helps you, or your buyer.
> --
> Marc  W8SDG
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 14, 2015, at 10:30 PM, KC6CNN  wrote:
> >
> > I have a Special Edition Elecraft Hex Key Serial # 057.
> > This key is too light for my heavy hands.
> > I am offering it for sale or trade and wanted to give the Elecraft List
> > first shot at it.
> > So Make a offer* OFF LIST* of either the amount you would pay or key you
> > would want to trade.
> > Thank you
> > Gerald - KC6CNN
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -
> > KC6CNN - Gerald
> > K2 # 5486
> > K3 # 6294
> > KX3 # 757
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-Hex-Key-Serial-57-tp7609095.html
> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> >
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> > Message delivered to mhv...@gmail.com
> __
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> Message delivered to rta...@gmail.com
>



-- 
Rick Tavan N6XI
Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 + fldigi (PSK31)

[Don Wilhelm]

Kyle,

Not answering about the receive waterfall because it appears you have 
some other things to clean up first.


The ALC bars are important.  Set the TX audio level correctly so you 
have 4 bars solid and the 5th bar flickering on the ALC meter.
Too much audio drive will trigger an audio 'overload' in the KX3, so set 
the mic gain to a low level, and set the soundcard line out slider to 
about half to start with.  Make certain the SignaLink is plugged for MIC 
level, and not for LINE level.

Once you have done that you should be able to transmit.

The KX3 ALC is *not* turned off in DATA A mode - what is turned off is 
compression and the TX EQ settings.


As far as not going back to receive, if you are using the PTT from the 
SignaLink, make sure the KX3 VOX is off.
Actually, you should be able to operate without the SignaLink PTT output 
and use the KX3 VOX instead, just set the KX3 VOX gain at a level that 
triggers the VOX reliably.  If you are using the SignaLink PTT, it may 
be triggering on noise if you have the 'soundcard' level set too high.  
The SignaLink PTT is driven by a simplistic VOX circuit in the SignaLink 
which senses audio, and with a high audio level, it cannot differentiate 
between a real signal and noise.


Try manual transmit rather than attempting macros until you get it 
going.  You are playing with several variables at once, reduce those to 
only one or two and add one at a time after you get it working.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2015 11:43 AM, Kyle Krieg wrote:

Using up to date fldigi on a Windows Vista laptop.  Signalink USB modem.
KX3.  Hamlib for rig control within fldigi.

I hook everything up, put the radio in DATA A mode and follow the
instructions on this webpage
https://k4mtx.wordpress.com/2013/04/11/kx3-fldigi-setup/

My questions are

2) When I transmit, I'm not able to adjust my ALC, which in the webpage
above, I should be able to adjust that? It looks like that option is turned
off in Data A mode?

3) Should my transmit signal be spilling out of my yellow bars when I
transmit, or am I over driving my signal?

4) After I get done transmitting (audible tones), it hangs with the TX red
light on and does not automatically go into receive mode.  I have to hit my
XMIT button to return to receive.  Then I can see my waterfall.  I've
checked my macros and they all end with .  I'm sure there is a setting
I'm not seeing.




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