Re: [Elecraft] K5P Palmyra Dxpedition on the air with Elecraft rigs

[Jim Brown]

On Thu,1/14/2016 7:31 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Too bad they didn't take some decent antennas too. 


The ones they're using on 160M damn sure work -- top 160 op and 
DXpeditioner N5IA said they were loud at his QTH for most of the night 
the first night they were on. Tonight, they're loud here, and they heard 
my 5W.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and P3

[Alan]

Nope, tracking mode only.

Alan N1AL


On 01/14/2016 10:06 PM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

I wonder if it would work in fixed mode or just in tracking mode? I
know the K2's CAT command set is a subset of the K3's. It would be
interesting to hear from someone who's tried it.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO


On 15 Jan 2016, at 4:56 AM, Don Wilhelm 
wrote:

The answer is yes.  Actually a better answer is maybe. The P3 will
tune to the K2 IF frequency, but the K2 does not have an IF
output. Clifton Laboratories used to have a Z1-K2 buffer
amplifier to bring the K2 IF out to the rear panel without loading
the K2 IF system, however, Clifton Labs has closed shop and the
buffer amplifier kit is no longer available. The documentation is
still available on the website and the buffer amp is not anything
complex, so you may be able to build your own version of the
Z1-K2 buffer amplifier. Once you have an IF output from your
K2, the P3 will provide the spectrum display of the K2 IF without
modification.

73, Don W3FPR


On 1/14/2016 7:31 PM, Gee wrote: Can I use my P3 with a K2? If so
does it require a modification to either unit?


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and P3

[Vic Rosenthal]

I wonder if it would work in fixed mode or just in tracking mode? I know the 
K2's CAT command set is a subset of the K3's. It would be interesting to hear 
from someone who's tried it.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 15 Jan 2016, at 4:56 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> The answer is yes.  Actually a better answer is maybe.
> The P3 will tune to the K2 IF frequency, but the K2 does not have an IF 
> output.
> Clifton Laboratories used to have a Z1-K2 buffer amplifier to bring the 
> K2 IF out to the rear panel without loading the K2 IF system, however, 
> Clifton Labs has closed shop and the buffer amplifier kit is no longer 
> available.
> The documentation is still available on the website and the buffer amp is not 
> anything complex, so you may be able to build your own version of the 
> Z1-K2 buffer amplifier.
> Once you have an IF output from your K2, the P3 will provide the spectrum 
> display of the K2 IF without modification.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 1/14/2016 7:31 PM, Gee wrote:
>> Can I use my P3 with a K2? If so does it require a modification to either 
>> unit?
> 
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[Elecraft] keys by VE3GHN

[bill.va3ol]

I purchased a key make by VE3GHN at a flea market and it is a really nice
straight key. Made of brass and on a wooden base. Frankly it has become my
favorite straight key.

I have seen only one other example of his keys on the internet.

If anyone has pictures, descriptions, etc. I would appreciate it. Len is an
SK. I have no idea how many keys might have been produced but I suspect
that many were one off units.

Thanks
Bill, VA3OL
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Re: [Elecraft] K5P Palmyra Dxpedition on the air with Elecraft rigs

[John Kramer]

I’m really happy they took omni directional vertical antennas along.
For most DXpeditions that use directional antennas, they never beam
to my direction (understandably, as we are thin on the ground in Africa).

We at last have a fighting chance to get in the log, and it levels the playing
field, with their vertical antennas on all bands.

I have them on 3 band slots thus far

73
John, ZS5J






On 15 Jan 2016, at 5:31 AM, Wes (N7WS)  wrote:

Too bad they didn't take some decent antennas too.

On 1/14/2016 7:07 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
> K5P Palmyra Island is on the air with with K3S transceivers, P3s and KPA500s. 
> See:  http://www.dxsummit.fi/#/?dx_calls=K5P  and http://palmyra2016.org
> 
> Pic of K5P op positions in action at:
> http://elecraft.com/DXpeditions/kp5ops.jpg
> 
> 73,
> 
> Eric

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Re: [Elecraft] K5P Palmyra Dxpedition on the air with Elecraft rigs

[Wes (N7WS)]

Too bad they didn't take some decent antennas too.

On 1/14/2016 7:07 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
K5P Palmyra Island is on the air with with K3S transceivers, P3s and KPA500s. 
See:  http://www.dxsummit.fi/#/?dx_calls=K5P  and http://palmyra2016.org


Pic of K5P op positions in action at:
http://elecraft.com/DXpeditions/kp5ops.jpg

73,

Eric


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and P3

[Don Wilhelm]

The answer is yes.  Actually a better answer is maybe.
The P3 will tune to the K2 IF frequency, but the K2 does not have an IF 
output.
Clifton Laboratories used to have a Z1-K2 buffer amplifier to bring 
the K2 IF out to the rear panel without loading the K2 IF system, 
however, Clifton Labs has closed shop and the buffer amplifier kit is no 
longer available.
The documentation is still available on the website and the buffer amp 
is not anything complex, so you may be able to build your own version of 
the Z1-K2 buffer amplifier.
Once you have an IF output from your K2, the P3 will provide the 
spectrum display of the K2 IF without modification.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2016 7:31 PM, Gee wrote:

Can I use my P3 with a K2? If so does it require a modification to either unit?




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[Elecraft] K5P Palmyra Dxpedition on the air with Elecraft rigs

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

K5P  Palmyra Island is on the air with with K3S transceivers, P3s and KPA500s. 
See:  http://www.dxsummit.fi/#/?dx_calls=K5P  and http://palmyra2016.org


Pic of K5P op positions in action at:
http://elecraft.com/DXpeditions/kp5ops.jpg

73,

Eric
/elecraft.com/

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[Elecraft] K2 and P3

[Gee]

Can I use my P3 with a K2? If so does it require a modification to either unit? 





Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz Reference Oscillator

[Kevin Cozens]

On 15-10-31 02:40 PM, Bob W7AVK wrote:

For evaluation I purchased last spring directly from China one of the BG7TBL
10 mhz sine output GPS Defined Oscillators when the price was $125.

[snip]

Found the unit works great as a master reference for not only the K3 but lab
gear like counters and signal generators.


What do you use as a distribution buffer/amp to feed the signal to other 
devices or are you only feeding the output to one device at a time?


--
Cheers!

Kevin.

http://www.ve3syb.ca/   |"Nerds make the shiny things that distract
Owner of Elecraft K2 #2172  | the mouth-breathers, and that's why we're
| powerful!"
#include  | --Chris Hardwick
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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Bill Frantz]

I have a screen capture from the P3 with a CW signal about 15KHz 
wide during straight key night. He was calling CQ, but I didn't 
copy the call sign. I suspect a boatanchor in very poor condition.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 1/14/16 at 8:48 AM, n...@n5ge.com (Amateur Radio Operator 
N5GE) wrote:



Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE


-
Bill Frantz| When it comes to the world | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | around us, is there any choice | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | but to explore? - Lisa Randall | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[David Glasser]

I have a 1967, 7.2 liter, V8, all original Buick Riviera, why, because it is 
noisy and probably does not meet emission standards should I relegate it to the 
musem?
It is a thing of beauty admired by all, and no one cares about the consumption 
or the mileage on the tyres.
If it were not for that 1967 Buick many cars would not exist today!!
Just saying!!

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 2:58 PM
To: Wes ; n...@n5ge.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

As do many, I love looking at old gear and I marvel at the engineering skills 
of those who came before us youngsters, however, to use them on 20M in todays' 
conditions is nothing short of shameful.
15Khz wide, scratchy hard to listen to audio simply adds to the QRM and uses 
unnecessary bandwidth is not something I want to see/hear on the bands.
I wish these old museum pieces were placed in a museum instead.
Obviously saying anything less than glowing comments on the operators signal is 
greeted with scornful remarks.
I bought my K3 to get a tight, clean signal, most however it seems buy 'eye 
candy' over specs.
Just my devalued 2 cents worth.
Gary 

-Original Message-
From: "Wes" 
Sent: ‎15/‎01/‎2016 4:43 AM
To: "n...@n5ge.com" 
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

I've also been chasing NPOTA stations, most of whom are on 20 SSB. It is hard 
to believe until you hear one but there are fools running 12 KHz wide AM there. 

On Jan 14, 2016, at 9:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE  wrote:

> Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely 
> wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
> ARS N5GE
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[K4ia via Elecraft]

Those extremely wide ragged looking signals are probably all the hounds 
chasing the DX fox.  You are seeing multiple signals, not one ragged one.


Buck
k4ia  K3 #101
Honor Roll 333
8B DXCC

On 1/14/2016 11:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] [PX3] - symmetrical reflections about the center point

[kevino z]

Thank you - that did it 

-
The problem with the world is that the intelligent people are full of doubts, 
while the stupid ones are full of confidence.

> On Jan 14, 2016, at 14:55, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Kevin,
> 
> Try removing each end of the IQ cable between the KX3 and PX3 and firmly 
> re-inserting it. What you are seeing usually is the result of one end not 
> being fully inserted in the jack, leaving one of the IQ lines open. 
> 
> Eric
> elecraft.com
> 
>> On 1/10/2016 4:42 AM, kevino z wrote:
>> Not sure if it was the loading of the new KX3 firmware, or if I changed some 
>> settings, but now on my PX3 panadapter, I see everything symmetrically 
>> mirrored around the center. So for example, If there is a signal at Center 
>> frequency -50kHz, it appears at +50kHz too. As I move the VFO, the signals 
>> eventually converge and pass through the middle on their way to the ends of 
>> the display.Anyone have any idea how to fix this, or what I did to get in 
>> this mess?thank you -Kevin (KK4YEL)
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>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

In the interest of reducing list overload, lets end this thread at this time. 
Lots of good replies already and a ton of traffic.


73,

Eric
List modulator
/elecraft.com/

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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Gary]

As do many, I love looking at old gear and I marvel at the engineering skills 
of those who came before us youngsters, however, to use them on 20M in todays' 
conditions is nothing short of shameful.
15Khz wide, scratchy hard to listen to audio simply adds to the QRM and uses 
unnecessary bandwidth is not something I want to see/hear on the bands.
I wish these old museum pieces were placed in a museum instead.
Obviously saying anything less than glowing comments on the operators signal is 
greeted with scornful remarks.
I bought my K3 to get a tight, clean signal, most however it seems buy 'eye 
candy' over specs.
Just my devalued 2 cents worth.
Gary 

-Original Message-
From: "Wes" 
Sent: ‎15/‎01/‎2016 4:43 AM
To: "n...@n5ge.com" 
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

I've also been chasing NPOTA stations, most of whom are on 20 SSB. It is hard 
to believe until you hear one but there are fools running 12 KHz wide AM there. 

On Jan 14, 2016, at 9:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE  wrote:

> Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
> wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
> ARS N5GE
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [PX3] - symmetrical reflections about the center point

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Hi Kevin,

Try removing each end of the IQ cable between the KX3 and PX3 and firmly 
re-inserting it. What you are seeing usually is the result of one end not being 
fully inserted in the jack, leaving one of the IQ lines open.


Eric
/elecraft.com/

On 1/10/2016 4:42 AM, kevino z wrote:

Not sure if it was the loading of the new KX3 firmware, or if I changed some 
settings, but now on my PX3 panadapter, I see everything symmetrically mirrored 
around the center. So for example, If there is a signal at Center frequency 
-50kHz, it appears at +50kHz too. As I move the VFO, the signals eventually 
converge and pass through the middle on their way to the ends of the 
display.Anyone have any idea how to fix this, or what I did to get in this 
mess?thank you -Kevin (KK4YEL) 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question -- solved, soon to be fixed

[Clay Autery]

Interesting.  My SWAG was the obvious transmission line/feed point
impedance mismatch, but I would have never thought about the fasteners
being the issue.
I'll be reading up on eddy currents now and how they apply to impedance.
Is it possible that it's not actually the ferrous materials and the eddy
currents generated, but the mating of dissimilar metal conductors
separated by a thin layer of aluminum or other oxide setting up some
level of capacitance, and/or some additional inductance added by the
stainless fastener and feed-line attachment (a 1-turn inductor?)?

All that put together in some freak fashion would lead me to believe a
small L-C network was created that may have caused a transmission line
to antenna impedance mismatch uncorrectable at the station... indeed,
under-reported in the SWR readings.

Just a huge guess and just curious.  Adding this to my "file drawer" of
troubleshooting ideas, but I'd like to understand the science.

Of course, it could be simpler...  simply multiple interfaces of
sufficiently incompatible metals that it sets up galvanic corrosion in
multiple layers.

> ...The trouble was at the connection of the feedline to the antenna.
> (...) I think that it was due to the ferrous material (stainless
> steel) of the bolts heating due to eddy currents in the strong RF field.
>
> I will change the method of connecting the line on Sunday and I hope
> it will solve the problem.

Assuming the root cause is galvanic corrosion (and potential
introduction of capacitance and/or inductance), I would surmise the
solution to be setting up a connection where no two incompatible metals
are touching.
Something like a bi-metal connector kinda like the one on this page
(only correctly sized):  http://www.utilex.com/bi-metallic_connector.htm

If I'm way, way off base, please educate me.  I'm on this list to learn.

73,

__
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(testing 02/20/16)

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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question -- solved, soon to be fixed

[Vic Rosenthal]

I asked my XYL to press the key and watch the SWR meter, and to let go 
when it hit 3:1. Then she ran out and waved to me on the roof, at which 
point I went up the ladder and felt the bolts. Very high tech.


If I'm right that it's the bolt material, just changing to brass bolts 
should work.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 14 Jan 2016 20:14, a...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Nice work Vic!  Let us know how you determined the stainless screws to
be heating?  Do you have an IR sensing gun with a tight pattern?
Also be curious to hear how you plan to change the connection method and
if successful?  All I can think of is a stainless hose clamp.

73, Mike  AC5P


On Thursday, January 14, 2016 11:40 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO
 wrote:


I would like to thank the numerous hams who responded to my plea for help.

The problem that was causing my SWR to rise with high power was not in
my shack. The tuner, balun, coax and open wire line were all 100%. The
trouble was at the connection of the feedline to the antenna.

The connection was made where stainless steel bolts passed through the
tubing. The bolts heated up rapidly when running over 500w. At first I
thought the connection was poor, but improving it did not help. From the
way it was heating (away from the point of contact of the lugs to the
antenna tubing) I think that it was due to the ferrous material
(stainless steel) of the bolts heating due to eddy currents in the
strong RF field.

I have experienced this phenomenon in amplifiers, but never an antenna!

I will change the method of connecting the line on Sunday and I hope it
will solve the problem.
--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 For Sale

[Joe Word]

The K3 has been sold pending funds.

Joe  N9VX

On Thu, Jan 14, 2016 at 10:38 AM, Joe Word  wrote:

> For sale Elecraft K3 100 watt version in excellent condition, no
> scratches, from a smoke free home, serial number 5429. Has optional KXV3A
> Interface (Rx Antenna ports, Transverter Ports and IF Out) and the stock
> 2.7 filter. Comes with manuals and power cord. $1900 shipped in CONUS.
> Payment by money order, Cashiers Check or cash, no Paypal.
> Contact me at: n9vx dot joe at gmail.com
>
> 73,
>
> Joe  N9VX
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question -- solved, soon to be fixed

[Lewis Phelps]

I meant to reply to this query earlier,  but got sidetracked.  What I was going 
to suggest was that you look at the interfaces between stainless steel and 
aluminum.  They are potentially problematic, because SS and aluminum have very 
different galvanic potentials, and “in the presence of an electrolyte” create a 
battery with a significant corrosion-causing voltage.  This will cause serious 
galvanic corrosion of the aluminum.

More specifically, the aluminum alloys most often used for antennas have a 
galvanic potential of -0.8 volt to -1.0 volt.  Depending on the stainless steel 
alloy employed, it can have a galvanic potential of about -0.05 volt to -0.25 
volt, which means a voltage differential of anywhere from 0.6 volt to 1.0 volt. 
If there is moisture in the air (which means most places in the world), it will 
create an electrolyte, and corrosion will commence. 

I have always been amazed that the standard practice in antenna building, both 
commercial and home brew, has been to use aluminum tubing and stainless steel 
fittings. That is, in my mind,  a recipe for disaster.

How to eliminate galvanic corrosion?  

1. Use aluminum bolts, nuts and fittings with aluminum tubing.
2. Use cadmium-plated or zinc-coated fittings with aluminum tubing.
3. Use stainless steel fittings with stainless steel tubing.
4. Use brass or copper fittings with brass or copper tubing
5. Use soldered copper joints.
6. Protect interfaces between dissimilar metals so that no moisture can ever 
get into the metal joint. 

There are other approaches that provide low galvanic potential difference, but 
the above are tested and useful.

Lew N6LEW


> On Jan 14, 2016, at 9:39 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO  
> wrote:
> 
> I would like to thank the numerous hams who responded to my plea for help.
> 
> The problem that was causing my SWR to rise with high power was not in my 
> shack. The tuner, balun, coax and open wire line were all 100%. The trouble 
> was at the connection of the feedline to the antenna.
> 
> The connection was made where stainless steel bolts passed through the 
> tubing. The bolts heated up rapidly when running over 500w. At first I 
> thought the connection was poor, but improving it did not help. From the way 
> it was heating (away from the point of contact of the lugs to the antenna 
> tubing) I think that it was due to the ferrous material (stainless steel) of 
> the bolts heating due to eddy currents in the strong RF field.
> 
> I have experienced this phenomenon in amplifiers, but never an antenna!
> 
> I will change the method of connecting the line on Sunday and I hope it will 
> solve the problem.
> -- 
> 73,
> Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
> Rehovot, Israel
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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> Message delivered to l...@n6lew.us
> 

Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800 
l...@n6lew.us
www.n6lew.us

Generalized Law of Entropy: Sooner or later, everything that has been put 
together will fall apart.





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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question

[Alan]

This is good advice.  Ceramic capacitors can have very low loss - it 
depends on the dielectric used.  Smaller value NPO (zero temperature 
coefficient) types tend to have the lowest loss.  Large value X7R, Z5U, 
etc. types have very high loss and are generally unsuitable for any 
high-current RF application.


The type of doorknob ceramic caps that you can find in old tube-type TV 
sets are the high-loss type.  OK for bypass capacitors but not for a tuner.


Using several capacitors in parallel to split the current is a good 
idea.  It also reduces the stray inductance.


Alan N1AL


On 01/14/2016 06:47 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

When I updated my 2 tuners, I used some doorknob style capacitors, of
Russian source I presume,  which I purchased via E-Bay. Something like 5
for $20.These were 470pf units rated at 16KV.Don't be mislead
with the voltage rating, as it the current handling ability being the
key for RF usage.

In most all cases one will need to provide a somewhat different mounting
as they have screw terminals on either side and are larger physically. I
just happen to have one in the desk drawer. Typically 1.0" dia x 0.75"
tall with, guessing, #6 or #8 screw terminals on either side.  Could be
Metric screws as I don't recall and can't tell without my thread gauge.

Another approach is to divide the total current  by using 3 or 4 caps in
parallel,  if you wish to use disk ceramic caps.  Thus if your circuit
requires 330 pf then use 3 pcs of 100 pf or 3 pcs of 120 pf in parallel
and keep the voltage rating the same as the originals.  This way the
total current is divided between 3 devices as opposed to one device.
This also works.

In various transmitter updates, I have used dipped silver mica caps.
These work well.  Just keep the voltage rating the same as the
originals.  And it won't hurt to use 2 or 3 units parallel by taking the
original capacity value and dividing it  by 2 or 3 for the pf value.
This approach was used in restoration of some of my old boat anchor AM
transmitters.  These caps are more stable, meaning less tuning drift,
thus work much better than the original disk ceramics units.

73
Bob, K4TAX



On 1/14/2016 8:27 AM, Al Gulseth wrote:

Bob,

Are silver(ed)/dipped micas (CDE etc.) the preferred type for a tuner,
or is
there a superior newer technology available?

TNX/73, Al

On Wed January 13 2016 2:52:52 pm Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

If your tuner uses disk ceramic caps, as many do, these can be
heating thus
not being able to handle the RF current.  They heat and cool and change
value which in turn changes tuning.

Replacing them with suitable RF current rated units is the solution.

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Jim Brown]

On Thu,1/14/2016 10:17 AM, Fred Jensen wrote:
I think your P3 is OK.  I believe they are, for the most part, really 
wide. 


Yes and no. We must learn to understand the P3 display. It reads the 
voltage at the antenna input vs frequency. A stronger signal produces 
more voltage at every frequency at which it generates sidebands. What 
tells us bandwidth is the DIFFERENCE between the peak of the waveform 
and the sidebands, and to get a good read on that, we need to put the P3 
in PEAK mode. The problem is that it's tough to do that in a pileup, 
because all the other signals are contributing to what the P3 sees in 
the sidebands.


Yes, some of those signals ARE wide, some are VERY wide. Many DXers only 
get on the air for DXpeditions to rare ones, many are OTs with OT rigs. 
:) There's one of these (but a contester, not a DXer) about 2 miles down 
the road from me. He only works SSB DX contests, and he wipes out the 
entire band with the trash from his rig. The good news is that he has an 
alternate QTH 20 miles down the coast, and since I moved in ten years 
ago, he now contests from there. :)


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Wes]

I've also been chasing NPOTA stations, most of whom are on 20 SSB. It is hard 
to believe until you hear one but there are fools running 12 KHz wide AM there. 

On Jan 14, 2016, at 9:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE  wrote:

> Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
> wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
> ARS N5GE
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Wes]

They're rotten. Nothing new tho.  

http://www.arrl.org/news/the-old-man-rotten-damped-spark-stuff



On Jan 14, 2016, at 9:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE  wrote:

> Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
> wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
> ARS N5GE
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Hisashi T Fujinaka]

I think that can generate x-ray bursts as well.

On Thu, 14 Jan 2016, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:


My guess is that they are that bad.
Luckily, the ones that are hot-switching their relays won't be on the air for 
too long. At least, not with high power.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 14 Jan 2016 18:56, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Depending on the radio they are using, some are really nasty!

And with some that seem to run their radio in QSK mode, but without a
QSK qualified amp, that makes things worse as they are likely arcing and
sparking the relays.  Nothing like a good old spark gap transmitter to
eat up lots of bandwidth.

73
Bob, K4TAX





On 1/14/2016 10:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE

--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com
BSEE + BSChem + BAEnglish + MSCS + $2.50 = coffee
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: K3/100 + new synth + ATU

[John Shadle]

Had a couple of bites, but nothing firm yet.

K3
- 2.7 kHz 5-pole SSB/CW filter
- 100W PA (KPA3)
- 100W ATU (KAT3)
- KXV3A - transverter/receive antenna interface
- KSYN3A upgrade (new synth which is shipped with all K3S radios)

Mods have been completed to bring this up to spec. S/N 110. Non-smoking
environment, and always used as a base station -- not mobile.

Priced to move at $2150 including shipping to your QTH (lower 48 only). $50
discount for local (Madison, WI) pick-up. New K3S rigs with these features
are $3000 + shipping (!). Let's make a deal!

Prefer USPS Money Order or bank cheque. Personal checks will be held for 10
business days after deposit to clear.

Photos available at
https://www.flickr.com/photos/shadle/albums/72157663125687982

73
-john NE4U
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[Elecraft] Fw: important message

[davisent]

Hello!

 

New message, please read 

 

davis...@vcn.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Fred Jensen]

I think your P3 is OK.  I believe they are, for the most part, really 
wide.  Since I've been operating remote to W7RN with a very high 
coefficient of airborne aluminum, I've discovered that the better the 
antenna, the high the Key-Click volume on the band.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 1/14/2016 8:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE

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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7294 / Virus Database: 4489/11396 - Release Date: 01/14/16




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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question

[Igor Sokolov]

I wish to second Bob and also add that Russian TX capacitors are usually 
labled not only with max voltage but also with max power they can handle. In 
Russian that is printed as XX KBAP which stands for Kili Volt Amp Reactive 
power. And XX is the number.


73, Igor UA9CDC
- Original Message - 
From: "Bob McGraw K4TAX" 
To: "Dave Olean" ; ; 


Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question


First I'd say 680 pf , two parallel, is not at all adequate for a 160M KW 
amp.  More like 4 would be expected for about 2800 pf total required for 
160M  depending on plate Z.  Also with 3200 volts or so, again 
depending on the plate Z, 7.5 KV again is not much margin of safety.Ep 
x 4 is about right.


Just my comments and data from a Pi L calculator.

73
Bob, K4TAX



On 1/14/2016 9:44 AM, Dave Olean wrote:
I bought a bunch of those Russian TX caps. Mine were 680 pf and looked 
like the 7.5 KV Centralab ceramic TX caps with threaded holes on each 
end. I put two in parallel and used them for the plate blocking capacitor 
in a 160 meter KW triode amplifier. Big mistake. They cannot handle much 
current at all. When I keyed the amp, I saw the power output drop very 
fast. Those caps got very hot and failed miserably. I complained to the 
eBay seller and he advised that they were only for use as bypass caps and 
should not be used directly in the TX line. (Silly me!) Their heating 
cycle reminded me of what happened with Vic's antenna system of late.
   I still have them. They might make good target practice subjects. 
Buyer beware.


K1WHS

- Original Message - From: "Bob McGraw K4TAX" 


To: ; 
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question


When I updated my 2 tuners, I used some doorknob style capacitors, of 
Russian source I presume,  which I purchased via E-Bay. Something like 5 
for $20.These were 470pf units rated at 16KV.Don't be mislead 
with the voltage rating, as it the current handling ability being the 
key for RF usage.


In most all cases one will need to provide a somewhat different mounting 
as they have screw terminals on either side and are larger physically. 
I just happen to have one in the desk drawer. Typically 1.0" dia x 0.75" 
tall with, guessing, #6 or #8 screw terminals on either side.  Could be 
Metric screws as I don't recall and can't tell without my thread gauge.


Another approach is to divide the total current  by using 3 or 4 caps in 
parallel,  if you wish to use disk ceramic caps.  Thus if your circuit 
requires 330 pf then use 3 pcs of 100 pf or 3 pcs of 120 pf in parallel 
and keep the voltage rating the same as the originals.  This way the 
total current is divided between 3 devices as opposed to one device. 
This also works.


In various transmitter updates, I have used dipped silver mica caps. 
These work well.  Just keep the voltage rating the same as the 
originals. And it won't hurt to use 2 or 3 units parallel by taking the 
original capacity value and dividing it  by 2 or 3 for the pf value. 
This approach was used in restoration of some of my old boat anchor AM 
transmitters.  These caps are more stable, meaning less tuning drift, 
thus work much better than the original disk ceramics units.


73
Bob, K4TAX



On 1/14/2016 8:27 AM, Al Gulseth wrote:

Bob,

Are silver(ed)/dipped micas (CDE etc.) the preferred type for a tuner, 
or is

there a superior newer technology available?

TNX/73, Al

On Wed January 13 2016 2:52:52 pm Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
If your tuner uses disk ceramic caps, as many do, these can be heating 
thus
not being able to handle the RF current.  They heat and cool and 
change

value which in turn changes tuning.

Replacing them with suitable RF current rated units is the solution.

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone




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[Elecraft] OT antenna question -- solved, soon to be fixed

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I would like to thank the numerous hams who responded to my plea for help.

The problem that was causing my SWR to rise with high power was not in 
my shack. The tuner, balun, coax and open wire line were all 100%. The 
trouble was at the connection of the feedline to the antenna.


The connection was made where stainless steel bolts passed through the 
tubing. The bolts heated up rapidly when running over 500w. At first I 
thought the connection was poor, but improving it did not help. From the 
way it was heating (away from the point of contact of the lugs to the 
antenna tubing) I think that it was due to the ferrous material 
(stainless steel) of the bolts heating due to eddy currents in the 
strong RF field.


I have experienced this phenomenon in amplifiers, but never an antenna!

I will change the method of connecting the line on Sunday and I hope it 
will solve the problem.

--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Scott Ellington]

The old FT-1000D is notorious.  (I have one.)  I'm not sure about the 
MP.  There's a mod, which helps, but it's still wide.  It's a big reason 
I bought a K3.


--
Scott Ellington  K9MA
Madison, Wisconsin, USA



On 1/14/2016 11:26, Rick WA6NHC wrote:
I've noticed that it is directly proportional to the signal strength, 
but some ARE that wide (one brand in particular is more offensive).


Rick nhc


On 1/14/2016 9:24 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:

My guess is that they are that bad.
Luckily, the ones that are hot-switching their relays won't be on the 
air for too long. At least, not with high power.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 14 Jan 2016 18:56, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Depending on the radio they are using, some are really nasty!

And with some that seem to run their radio in QSK mode, but without a
QSK qualified amp, that makes things worse as they are likely arcing 
and

sparking the relays.  Nothing like a good old spark gap transmitter to
eat up lots of bandwidth.

73
Bob, K4TAX





On 1/14/2016 10:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Rick WA6NHC]

I've noticed that it is directly proportional to the signal strength, 
but some ARE that wide (one brand in particular is more offensive).


Rick nhc


On 1/14/2016 9:24 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:

My guess is that they are that bad.
Luckily, the ones that are hot-switching their relays won't be on the 
air for too long. At least, not with high power.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 14 Jan 2016 18:56, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Depending on the radio they are using, some are really nasty!

And with some that seem to run their radio in QSK mode, but without a
QSK qualified amp, that makes things worse as they are likely arcing and
sparking the relays.  Nothing like a good old spark gap transmitter to
eat up lots of bandwidth.

73
Bob, K4TAX





On 1/14/2016 10:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Amateur Radio Operator N5GE]

Below...


On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 10:56:05 -0600, you wrote:

>Depending on the radio they are using, some are really nasty!
>

>And with some that seem to run their radio in QSK mode, but without a 
>QSK qualified amp, that makes things worse as they are likely arcing and 
>sparking the relays.  Nothing like a good old spark gap transmitter to 
>eat up lots of bandwidth.

Yes, I watched one yesterday in a pile-up and I could could hear the
sparking.  The signal was about a kHz or more wide.

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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

My guess is that they are that bad.
Luckily, the ones that are hot-switching their relays won't be on the 
air for too long. At least, not with high power.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 14 Jan 2016 18:56, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Depending on the radio they are using, some are really nasty!

And with some that seem to run their radio in QSK mode, but without a
QSK qualified amp, that makes things worse as they are likely arcing and
sparking the relays.  Nothing like a good old spark gap transmitter to
eat up lots of bandwidth.

73
Bob, K4TAX





On 1/14/2016 10:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Depending on the radio they are using, some are really nasty!

And with some that seem to run their radio in QSK mode, but without a 
QSK qualified amp, that makes things worse as they are likely arcing and 
sparking the relays.  Nothing like a good old spark gap transmitter to 
eat up lots of bandwidth.


73
Bob, K4TAX





On 1/14/2016 10:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE

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[Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Amateur Radio Operator N5GE]

Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

First I'd say 680 pf , two parallel, is not at all adequate for a 160M 
KW amp.  More like 4 would be expected for about 2800 pf total required 
for 160M  depending on plate Z.  Also with 3200 volts or so, again 
depending on the plate Z, 7.5 KV again is not much margin of safety.
Ep x 4 is about right.


Just my comments and data from a Pi L calculator.

73
Bob, K4TAX



On 1/14/2016 9:44 AM, Dave Olean wrote:
I bought a bunch of those Russian TX caps. Mine were 680 pf and looked 
like the 7.5 KV Centralab ceramic TX caps with threaded holes on each 
end. I put two in parallel and used them for the plate blocking 
capacitor in a 160 meter KW triode amplifier. Big mistake. They cannot 
handle much current at all. When I keyed the amp, I saw the power 
output drop very fast. Those caps got very hot and failed miserably. I 
complained to the eBay seller and he advised that they were only for 
use as bypass caps and should not be used directly in the TX line. 
(Silly me!) Their heating cycle reminded me of what happened with 
Vic's antenna system of late.
   I still have them. They might make good target practice subjects. 
Buyer beware.


K1WHS

- Original Message - From: "Bob McGraw K4TAX" 


To: ; 
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question


When I updated my 2 tuners, I used some doorknob style capacitors, of 
Russian source I presume,  which I purchased via E-Bay. Something 
like 5 for $20.These were 470pf units rated at 16KV.Don't be 
mislead with the voltage rating, as it the current handling ability 
being the key for RF usage.


In most all cases one will need to provide a somewhat different 
mounting as they have screw terminals on either side and are larger 
physically.  I just happen to have one in the desk drawer. Typically 
1.0" dia x 0.75" tall with, guessing, #6 or #8 screw terminals on 
either side.  Could be Metric screws as I don't recall and can't tell 
without my thread gauge.


Another approach is to divide the total current  by using 3 or 4 caps 
in parallel,  if you wish to use disk ceramic caps.  Thus if your 
circuit requires 330 pf then use 3 pcs of 100 pf or 3 pcs of 120 pf 
in parallel and keep the voltage rating the same as the originals.  
This way the total current is divided between 3 devices as opposed to 
one device.  This also works.


In various transmitter updates, I have used dipped silver mica caps. 
These work well.  Just keep the voltage rating the same as the 
originals. And it won't hurt to use 2 or 3 units parallel by taking 
the original capacity value and dividing it  by 2 or 3 for the pf 
value.This approach was used in restoration of some of my old 
boat anchor AM transmitters.  These caps are more stable, meaning 
less tuning drift, thus work much better than the original disk 
ceramics units.


73
Bob, K4TAX



On 1/14/2016 8:27 AM, Al Gulseth wrote:

Bob,

Are silver(ed)/dipped micas (CDE etc.) the preferred type for a 
tuner, or is

there a superior newer technology available?

TNX/73, Al

On Wed January 13 2016 2:52:52 pm Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
If your tuner uses disk ceramic caps, as many do, these can be 
heating thus
not being able to handle the RF current.  They heat and cool and 
change

value which in turn changes tuning.

Replacing them with suitable RF current rated units is the solution.

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question

[Al Gulseth]

I should clarify that I was thinking in terms of ~ 100W. There's always the 
old standby of Jennings vacuum variables for QRO use

73, Al

On Thu January 14 2016 9:44:04 am Dave Olean wrote:
> I bought a bunch of those Russian TX caps. Mine were 680 pf and looked like
> the 7.5 KV Centralab ceramic TX caps with threaded holes on each end. I put
> two in parallel and used them for the plate blocking capacitor in a 160
> meter KW triode amplifier. Big mistake. They cannot handle much current at
> all. When I keyed the amp, I saw the power output drop very fast. Those
> caps got very hot and failed miserably. I complained to the eBay seller and
> he advised that they were only for use as bypass caps and should not be
> used directly in the TX line. (Silly me!) Their heating cycle reminded me
> of what happened with Vic's antenna system of late.
> I still have them. They might make good target practice subjects. Buyer
> beware.
>
> K1WHS
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Bob McGraw K4TAX" 
> To: ; 
> Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 2:47 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question
>
> > When I updated my 2 tuners, I used some doorknob style capacitors, of
> > Russian source I presume,  which I purchased via E-Bay. Something like 5
> > for $20.These were 470pf units rated at 16KV.Don't be mislead
> > with the voltage rating, as it the current handling ability being the key
> > for RF usage.
> >
> > In most all cases one will need to provide a somewhat different mounting
> > as they have screw terminals on either side and are larger physically.  I
> > just happen to have one in the desk drawer. Typically 1.0" dia x 0.75"
> > tall with, guessing, #6 or #8 screw terminals on either side.  Could be
> > Metric screws as I don't recall and can't tell without my thread gauge.
> >
> > Another approach is to divide the total current  by using 3 or 4 caps in
> > parallel,  if you wish to use disk ceramic caps.  Thus if your circuit
> > requires 330 pf then use 3 pcs of 100 pf or 3 pcs of 120 pf in parallel
> > and keep the voltage rating the same as the originals.  This way the
> > total current is divided between 3 devices as opposed to one device. 
> > This also works.
> >
> > In various transmitter updates, I have used dipped silver mica caps.
> > These work well.  Just keep the voltage rating the same as the originals.
> > And it won't hurt to use 2 or 3 units parallel by taking the original
> > capacity value and dividing it  by 2 or 3 for the pf value.This
> > approach was used in restoration of some of my old boat anchor AM
> > transmitters.  These caps are more stable, meaning less tuning drift,
> > thus work much better than the original disk ceramics units.
> >
> > 73
> > Bob, K4TAX
> >
> > On 1/14/2016 8:27 AM, Al Gulseth wrote:
> >> Bob,
> >>
> >> Are silver(ed)/dipped micas (CDE etc.) the preferred type for a tuner,
> >> or is
> >> there a superior newer technology available?
> >>
> >> TNX/73, Al
> >>
> >> On Wed January 13 2016 2:52:52 pm Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> >>> If your tuner uses disk ceramic caps, as many do, these can be heating
> >>> thus
> >>> not being able to handle the RF current.  They heat and cool and change
> >>> value which in turn changes tuning.
> >>>
> >>> Replacing them with suitable RF current rated units is the solution.
> >>>
> >>> Bob, K4TAX
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question

[Dave Olean]

I bought a bunch of those Russian TX caps. Mine were 680 pf and looked like 
the 7.5 KV Centralab ceramic TX caps with threaded holes on each end. I put 
two in parallel and used them for the plate blocking capacitor in a 160 
meter KW triode amplifier. Big mistake. They cannot handle much current at 
all. When I keyed the amp, I saw the power output drop very fast. Those caps 
got very hot and failed miserably. I complained to the eBay seller and he 
advised that they were only for use as bypass caps and should not be used 
directly in the TX line. (Silly me!) Their heating cycle reminded me of what 
happened with Vic's antenna system of late.
   I still have them. They might make good target practice subjects. Buyer 
beware.


K1WHS

- Original Message - 
From: "Bob McGraw K4TAX" 

To: ; 
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question


When I updated my 2 tuners, I used some doorknob style capacitors, of 
Russian source I presume,  which I purchased via E-Bay. Something like 5 
for $20.These were 470pf units rated at 16KV.Don't be mislead with 
the voltage rating, as it the current handling ability being the key for 
RF usage.


In most all cases one will need to provide a somewhat different mounting 
as they have screw terminals on either side and are larger physically.  I 
just happen to have one in the desk drawer. Typically 1.0" dia x 0.75" 
tall with, guessing, #6 or #8 screw terminals on either side.  Could be 
Metric screws as I don't recall and can't tell without my thread gauge.


Another approach is to divide the total current  by using 3 or 4 caps in 
parallel,  if you wish to use disk ceramic caps.  Thus if your circuit 
requires 330 pf then use 3 pcs of 100 pf or 3 pcs of 120 pf in parallel 
and keep the voltage rating the same as the originals.  This way the total 
current is divided between 3 devices as opposed to one device.  This also 
works.


In various transmitter updates, I have used dipped silver mica caps. 
These work well.  Just keep the voltage rating the same as the originals. 
And it won't hurt to use 2 or 3 units parallel by taking the original 
capacity value and dividing it  by 2 or 3 for the pf value.This 
approach was used in restoration of some of my old boat anchor AM 
transmitters.  These caps are more stable, meaning less tuning drift, thus 
work much better than the original disk ceramics units.


73
Bob, K4TAX



On 1/14/2016 8:27 AM, Al Gulseth wrote:

Bob,

Are silver(ed)/dipped micas (CDE etc.) the preferred type for a tuner, or 
is

there a superior newer technology available?

TNX/73, Al

On Wed January 13 2016 2:52:52 pm Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
If your tuner uses disk ceramic caps, as many do, these can be heating 
thus

not being able to handle the RF current.  They heat and cool and change
value which in turn changes tuning.

Replacing them with suitable RF current rated units is the solution.

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone




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[Elecraft] K3 For Sale

[Joe Word]

For sale Elecraft K3 100 watt version in excellent condition, no scratches,
from a smoke free home, serial number 5429. Has optional KXV3A Interface
(Rx Antenna ports, Transverter Ports and IF Out) and the stock 2.7 filter.
Comes with manuals and power cord. $1900 shipped in CONUS. Payment by money
order, Cashiers Check or cash, no Paypal.
Contact me at: n9vx dot joe at gmail.com

73,

Joe  N9VX
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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

When I updated my 2 tuners, I used some doorknob style capacitors, of 
Russian source I presume,  which I purchased via E-Bay. Something like 5 
for $20.These were 470pf units rated at 16KV.Don't be mislead 
with the voltage rating, as it the current handling ability being the 
key for RF usage.


In most all cases one will need to provide a somewhat different mounting 
as they have screw terminals on either side and are larger physically.  
I just happen to have one in the desk drawer. Typically 1.0" dia x 0.75" 
tall with, guessing, #6 or #8 screw terminals on either side.  Could be 
Metric screws as I don't recall and can't tell without my thread gauge.


Another approach is to divide the total current  by using 3 or 4 caps in 
parallel,  if you wish to use disk ceramic caps.  Thus if your circuit 
requires 330 pf then use 3 pcs of 100 pf or 3 pcs of 120 pf in parallel 
and keep the voltage rating the same as the originals.  This way the 
total current is divided between 3 devices as opposed to one device.  
This also works.


In various transmitter updates, I have used dipped silver mica caps.  
These work well.  Just keep the voltage rating the same as the 
originals.  And it won't hurt to use 2 or 3 units parallel by taking the 
original capacity value and dividing it  by 2 or 3 for the pf value.
This approach was used in restoration of some of my old boat anchor AM 
transmitters.  These caps are more stable, meaning less tuning drift, 
thus work much better than the original disk ceramics units.


73
Bob, K4TAX



On 1/14/2016 8:27 AM, Al Gulseth wrote:

Bob,

Are silver(ed)/dipped micas (CDE etc.) the preferred type for a tuner, or is
there a superior newer technology available?

TNX/73, Al

On Wed January 13 2016 2:52:52 pm Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

If your tuner uses disk ceramic caps, as many do, these can be heating thus
not being able to handle the RF current.  They heat and cool and change
value which in turn changes tuning.

Replacing them with suitable RF current rated units is the solution.

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question

[Al Gulseth]

Bob,

Are silver(ed)/dipped micas (CDE etc.) the preferred type for a tuner, or is 
there a superior newer technology available?

TNX/73, Al

On Wed January 13 2016 2:52:52 pm Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>
> If your tuner uses disk ceramic caps, as many do, these can be heating thus
> not being able to handle the RF current.  They heat and cool and change
> value which in turn changes tuning.
>
> Replacing them with suitable RF current rated units is the solution.
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Interfacing KX3 with computer to run HDSDR

[David Anderson]

Have you seen this article?


http://hdsdr.de/Elecraft-KX3_with_HDSDR.pdf


The Omni-rig allows the HDSDR to change the frequency and or mode of the KX3 
and vice versa. It uses a com port to do that, so you can use the USB to serial 
adapted that Elecraft supply.



73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 14 Jan 2016, at 07:01, Terry Brown  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> 
> I am a new owner of a KX3.  I have  been trying to figure out how to
> interface the KX3 to my computer and get HDSDR to play correctly.  I see a
> lot of references to Omni-Rig.  Why is that needed and what is its purpose?
> I would appreciate any help I could get from someone running HDSDR and
> controlling their KX3.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> Terry, N7TB
> 
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