Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Vic Rosenthal]

You can tell if the noise floor increase is due to increased gain by seeing if 
signals increase in strength along with the noise.

As Don said, OCFs are prone to common mode issues. Perhaps the power supply is 
acting as a ground return for the 'common mode antenna'? A common mode choke on 
the power leads as you suggest might be worth a try. 

Regarding clip-ons, remember that at HF you need multiple turns to have a 
noticeable affect. Also make sure they are the correct types of ferrite. The 
K9YC paper deals with that.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 16 Jul 2016, at 00:01, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Dick and Howard...
> 
> The RS-50 is pretty new - maybe 6 months old and is in daily use. It wasn't
> until I had a rig I could easily run on batteries did I notice the noise.
> The RS-12 is quite old, maybe 15 years? It had been in storage about 10
> years until trying it out today. I think I need to dig into the RS-50 and
> just make sure everything is soldered and connected well.
> 
> As for common mode currents in the antenna... would that only be an issue
> during transmit? I have an OCF so I know it can be an issue on transmit.
> The OCF has a 1:1 current BALUN in the center. Is that enough or do I need
> to add some additional choking just below the BALUN? I have a couple of the
> NI4L line isolators (http://www.ni4l.com/hf-choke-line-isolator-1-8-300-mhz/).
> I could put one up there and see what it does. I also have plenty of
> clip-ons laying around. I'll try them on the power lead from the supply to
> the radio.
> 
> The reports above were with *receive only* (with and without an antenna
> attached). On the RS-50 the hum I'm hearing is what I think I'd expect to
> hear from a less-that-well filtered linear power supply. The hash/hiss
> noise I hear sounds more like a switching power supply, which it is not. I
> don't know what in the power supply could be generating that noise.
> 
> The RS-12 does not have either the hum or hiss that I can hear. It just
> sounds like the noise floor bumped up a little. I'm thinking Dick is right
> and it is just the receiver responding to the increased voltage though it
> is only about .5 volts above the external battery pack I was using.
> 
> Is every power supply going to generate a little noise or should I expect
> no difference moving from battery to power supply?
> 
> Kev
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Joe Stone (KF5WBO)]

As I mentioned in an earlier post, the K3 / K3s "J3" connector leveraged by
the K-Pod was originally
intended to serve as a MPLAB ICD 2 (In-Circuit Debugger),

http://wickedstone.com/KF5WBO/ICD-2%20Schematic.jpg
http://wickedstone.com/KF5WBO/MPLAB%20ICD%202.jpg
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/devicedoc/51331b.pdf

73's

Joe Stone
KF5WBO



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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Don Wilhelm]

Clay,

The K3 and K3S schematics are the same with respect to that connector.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/15/2016 11:35 PM, Clay Autery wrote:

RR...  I just cracked the K-pod manual and see that the cable is an
RJ-25 cable...  different pinouts from the RJ-12.  (both 6P6C).

I need the signals crossed with the pin numbers...  or colors...

No schematics for the K3s...  I guess I'll try the K3 manual to see if
it is at all illuminating...

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/15/2016 9:36 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Don is correct but, actually, the connector is a 6PC6 male. The "RJ" numbers
refer to the wiring AND connector. So it is NOT an RJ12 cable since only 5
conductors are used.

73, Ron AC7AC


---

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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Clay Autery]

RR...  I just cracked the K-pod manual and see that the cable is an
RJ-25 cable...  different pinouts from the RJ-12.  (both 6P6C).

I need the signals crossed with the pin numbers...  or colors...

No schematics for the K3s...  I guess I'll try the K3 manual to see if
it is at all illuminating...

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/15/2016 9:36 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Don is correct but, actually, the connector is a 6PC6 male. The "RJ" numbers
> refer to the wiring AND connector. So it is NOT an RJ12 cable since only 5
> conductors are used. 
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
> ---
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Don is correct but, actually, the connector is a 6PC6 male. The "RJ" numbers
refer to the wiring AND connector. So it is NOT an RJ12 cable since only 5
conductors are used. 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 4:58 PM
To: Clay Autery; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer
RJ12 cable)

Clay,

Not possible - the connector is an RJ12.
Pin 1 is not used and should be clipped at each end for best results.
In other words, an Ethernet cable will not work.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/15/2016 7:47 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
> Can someone send me the RJ-45 pinout for the connection to the K-pod 
> (with and without the power mod)?
>
> I'd like to take a look at it  I am somewhat confident that a 
> standard CAT-5e cable, while functional is not the BEST solution...
>
> Thanks!
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 7/15/2016 11:20 AM, Warren Merkel wrote:
>> Bill
>>
>> So far, I'm experiencing normal operation of the K-Pod with a 14ft 
>> RJ12 6C straight through cable.  Search for:
>>
>> "09600 RJ12 6P6C Straight Modular Cable"
>>
>> on Amazon.  It was $4.99 as an add-on item to a larger order.
>>
>> At this point, I am not using the power modification on the K3, so I 
>> will report back if the results vary after swapping over to feeding 
>> power via the data cable.  Of course, your mileage might vary 
>> depending on RF levels in your shack :)
>>
>> Warren, KD4Z
>>
>>
>>> From: ny9h at arrl.net (Bill Steffey NY9H)
>>> Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2016 10:08:00 -0400
>>> Subject: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping,
>>>
>>> need a longer rj cable for kpod
>>>
>>> is there a reason that an rj12 6c straight thru would not work,???
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Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

[David Gilbert]

Agree with your points.  I've said for a couple of decades now that one 
of the least expensive ways to improve a modest station (assuming one 
has at least a decent antenna) is to add an amplifier.  Lots cheaper 
than a bigger tower and a bigger antenna.


Also, to your point about arrival angles ... HFTA calculates a "figure 
or merit" for several common paths.  N6BV (the author of HFTA) ran a few 
thousand simulations in VOACAP between various parts of the world for 
the parameter TANGLE ... the optimum takeoff angle for that path. He ran 
it for every month of the year over a full sunspot cycle (typical solar 
fluxes) for each path to generate a statistical profile of the 
normalized signal strength for each takeoff angle.  I believe the data 
for those profiles is included with the ARRL Antenna Book.  HFTA's 
"figure of merit" for a particular antenna over a particular terrain 
overlays the calculated radiation pattern over that VOACAP statistical 
profile of takeoff angles and sums the combination for each angle.


For example, N6BV ran 121 TANGLE calculations (12 months and 11 years) 
from W7 to Europe, compiling the signal strength at every degree of 
elevation for each of the 121 runs.  Adding up the strengths for each 
angle and dividing by 121 gives the statistical profile for the TANGLE 
calculation.  Overlaying the HFTA radiation pattern for the terrain 
profile pointing from W7 to Europe onto the TANGLE profile, and then 
adding up the result for each degree, gives the HFTA Figure of Merit.  
The net result gives an interesting assessment of the antenna/terrain 
for a particular path taking into account an entire sunspot cycle.


That being said, TANGLE is an empirically generated projection based 
upon actual data taken during the International Geophysical Year and 
other times, and one of the key scientists who worked on VOCAP and 
adapted it for general use (Greg Hand) has pointed out that of all the 
20 or so parameters that VOACAP can produce, TANGLE is probably the 
least rigorously substantiated.  Still, I think that HFTA Figure of 
Merit offers a useful assessment of the combination of horizontally 
polarized antennas and terrain for a desired path. I've used HFTA quite 
a bit, and my on the air results subjectively correlate quite well with it.


73,
Dave   AB7E



On 7/15/2016 12:16 PM, brian wrote:

Guys,

There is another issue here.

That is :

Just because ones antenna pattern is inferior to an optimum one by 5 
or even 20 db at the best arrival angle, that doesn't mean there is 
zero energy at the most important arrival angles.  It just means there 
is less.


QRPers often work the same stations as QRO guys. You see it all the 
time in contests. Likewise guys with high radiation angle antennas do 
work DX. Maybe just not always the really rare ones, or as many or as 
quickly.


-
It might be more interesting to discuss something like $/db to get to 
closer to optimum.  Going from low dipole to a higher one might cost 
zero to a couple hundred and gain 3 db at about $10-$100/db. Going 
from that higher dipole to something directive that picks up 4 db more 
might cost a couple kilobucks - $200-500/db.  Going from this 
directive array to something that picks up another 3 db might cost 5 
to 10 kilobucks. Now you're at > $1000/db.  Diminishing returns can 
happen quickly.


Desktop dB are near the cheapest. One can pickup 10 db (from 100 w) 
for about $100-200/db by buying a used amp.  Desktop dB can be easier 
to keep "in the air" too.

--
So what is that extra db worth to you?  Real world constrains besides 
money often limit what's possible too.


Paper and electricity is cheaper than hardware.  Learn how to use 
EZNEC or another antenna modeling program. Spend pennies/per bad new 
antenna design rather than big bucks.  Go after the cheap dB first.  
Debunk the myths about magic or folklore antennas that waste time and 
money.


Don't forget feedline loss.  One example was a local who was trying to 
work satellites using 50' of RG58 feedline.  Switching him over to 
LMR-400 doubled his uplink radiated power and improved reception by 
even more.


Read all you can. For example, K9YC's paper referenced in this thread 
illustrates how difficult it is to make a vertical work as well as 
even reasonable height dipole on the higher frequency bands. The 
ground reflection gain of a horizontal antenna (event a zig zag one) 
is hard to overcome.


73 de Brian/K3KO



On 7/15/2016 18:02 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Fri,7/15/2016 10:07 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:

shows an example where IONCAP says there is no (usable) path between
two stations, yet QSOs are made.


Wes,

There are exceptions to every generalization, even when the
generalization is good most of the time. I recall some well known person
who had come up poor but was no longer saying "I've been poor and I've
been rich, and rich i

Re: [Elecraft] Another KX3 vs K3S Query...

[Chester Alderman]

Awww..come on Merv.be nice..obviously reading comprehension may
not be a requirement at MONTAC ???



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Merv
Schweigert
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 9:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Another KX3 vs K3S Query...

Now why would he do all that?  He said he ordered a BUILT K3S-100




> Holy cow!!!  NICE!!!  You should be all set...
>
> Start reading the Assembly manual...  3 times at least.
> Get a box(es) with at least 30 compartments to separate out all the 
> hardware...
>
> Also... do a 100% inventory BEFORE you start... It's a pain, but it 
> will save you a LOT of trouble and headaches if you're missing some 
> hardware if you get it on the way up front... and they like to only 
> have to do one shortage shipment if any at all.
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 7/15/2016 1:42 PM, MaverickNH wrote:
>> Again, thanks for all the help on and off list. My ship came in a bit 
>> faster than expected, so I've been able to order a built K3S-100 
>> today, with ATU, SubRX, DigVoice, GenRX, TCXO/REF, 
>> 2.8/1.8/1.0/400/250 8-pole filters, K-Pod, mike and headset as well 
>> as a P3 with TXMON and SVGA. No 2m module - had to economize 
>> somewhere ;-)
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[Elecraft] those end fed half waves

[riese-k3djc]

Well

years ago I put up a 160 meter L and found it to be a noisy band
so went to 75
found it could be matched with the K3s tuner
but I wanted to run me amp
built a matcher that did a good job with that 75 meter half wave 
that end fed half wave does a good job stateside and when 75 opens
up does a good job working DX
so its a half wave,, is end fed and I like it

Bob K3DJC

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Re: [Elecraft] Another KX3 vs K3S Query...

[Clay Autery]

Oops..  I missed that.  It would never occur to me to buy a "built" unit
if I could get it as a kit...  

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Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/15/2016 8:43 PM, Merv Schweigert wrote:
> Now why would he do all that?  He said he ordered a BUILT K3S-100
>
>
>
>
>> Holy cow!!!  NICE!!!  You should be all set...
>>  
>> Start reading the Assembly manual...  3 times at least.
>> Get a box(es) with at least 30 compartments to separate out all the
>> hardware...
>>
>> Also... do a 100% inventory BEFORE you start... It's a pain, but it will
>> save you a LOT of trouble and headaches if you're missing some hardware
>> if you get it on the way up front... and they like to only have to do
>> one shortage shipment if any at all.
>>
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>>
>> On 7/15/2016 1:42 PM, MaverickNH wrote:
>>> Again, thanks for all the help on and off list. My ship came in a
>>> bit faster
>>> than expected, so I've been able to order a built K3S-100 today,
>>> with ATU,
>>> SubRX, DigVoice, GenRX, TCXO/REF, 2.8/1.8/1.0/400/250 8-pole
>>> filters, K-Pod,
>>> mike and headset as well as a P3 with TXMON and SVGA. No 2m module -
>>> had to
>>> economize somewhere ;-)
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Clay Autery]

Sorry, I frankly have never looked at the jack on the bottom of my K3s
closely.

OK, RJ 12...  still want to know which signals are on which pins...

Guess I'll have to go do it myself this is about 187 on my TO DO
list...  ;)

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/15/2016 6:57 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Clay,
>
> Not possible - the connector is an RJ12.
> Pin 1 is not used and should be clipped at each end for best results.
> In other words, an Ethernet cable will not work.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/15/2016 7:47 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> Can someone send me the RJ-45 pinout for the connection to the K-pod
>> (with and without the power mod)?
>>
>> I'd like to take a look at it  I am somewhat confident that a
>> standard CAT-5e cable, while functional is not the BEST solution...
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>>
>> On 7/15/2016 11:20 AM, Warren Merkel wrote:
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> So far, I'm experiencing normal operation of the K-Pod with a 14ft RJ12
>>> 6C straight through cable.  Search for:
>>>
>>> "09600 RJ12 6P6C Straight Modular Cable"
>>>
>>> on Amazon.  It was $4.99 as an add-on item to a larger order.
>>>
>>> At this point, I am not using the power modification on the K3, so I
>>> will report back if the results vary after swapping over to feeding
>>> power via the data cable.  Of course, your mileage might vary depending
>>> on RF levels in your shack :)
>>>
>>> Warren, KD4Z
>>>
>>>
 From: ny9h at arrl.net (Bill Steffey NY9H)
 Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2016 10:08:00 -0400
 Subject: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping,

 need a longer rj cable for kpod

 is there a reason that an rj12 6c straight thru would not work,???
>>> __
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>>> Message delivered to caut...@montac.com
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>

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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Clay Autery]

Not THAT into it...  I don't own a K-pod...  Was just going to review
the pin out to see if a better cable design was possible...

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Clay Autery, KY5G
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On 7/15/2016 6:55 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:
> It is a 6-pin connector and the wire at pin 1 should be cut at the
> radio end and to be safe cut it at both ends.
>
> Yes, people will use full 6-pin cables and may not observe any
> problems.  Regardless of such anecdotal evidencee, cut the wire to pin 1.
>
> And of course, turn off the radio before you plug or unplug the cable
> at the radio end .  No, you won't damage the radio if you don't
> observe this.. Yes, you may be surprised if you don't observe this.
>
> You can see the schematic of the K3 to see what things are connected
> to, and pencil in the mod to see what changes.
>
> 73,

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] "GT" Command

[Bob N3MNT]

If I remember correctly, AGC is set to off automatically in data modes.




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Re: [Elecraft] Another KX3 vs K3S Query...

[Merv Schweigert]

Now why would he do all that?  He said he ordered a BUILT K3S-100





Holy cow!!!  NICE!!!  You should be all set...

Start reading the Assembly manual...  3 times at least.
Get a box(es) with at least 30 compartments to separate out all the
hardware...

Also... do a 100% inventory BEFORE you start... It's a pain, but it will
save you a LOT of trouble and headaches if you're missing some hardware
if you get it on the way up front... and they like to only have to do
one shortage shipment if any at all.

__
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MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/15/2016 1:42 PM, MaverickNH wrote:

Again, thanks for all the help on and off list. My ship came in a bit faster
than expected, so I've been able to order a built K3S-100 today, with ATU,
SubRX, DigVoice, GenRX, TCXO/REF, 2.8/1.8/1.0/400/250 8-pole filters, K-Pod,
mike and headset as well as a P3 with TXMON and SVGA. No 2m module - had to
economize somewhere ;-)

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Re: [Elecraft] Another KX3 vs K3S Query...

[Clay Autery]

Holy cow!!!  NICE!!!  You should be all set...

Start reading the Assembly manual...  3 times at least.
Get a box(es) with at least 30 compartments to separate out all the
hardware...

Also... do a 100% inventory BEFORE you start... It's a pain, but it will
save you a LOT of trouble and headaches if you're missing some hardware
if you get it on the way up front... and they like to only have to do
one shortage shipment if any at all.

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MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/15/2016 1:42 PM, MaverickNH wrote:
> Again, thanks for all the help on and off list. My ship came in a bit faster
> than expected, so I've been able to order a built K3S-100 today, with ATU,
> SubRX, DigVoice, GenRX, TCXO/REF, 2.8/1.8/1.0/400/250 8-pole filters, K-Pod,
> mike and headset as well as a P3 with TXMON and SVGA. No 2m module - had to
> economize somewhere ;-)

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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Don Wilhelm]

Clay,

Not possible - the connector is an RJ12.
Pin 1 is not used and should be clipped at each end for best results.
In other words, an Ethernet cable will not work.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/15/2016 7:47 PM, Clay Autery wrote:

Can someone send me the RJ-45 pinout for the connection to the K-pod
(with and without the power mod)?

I'd like to take a look at it  I am somewhat confident that a
standard CAT-5e cable, while functional is not the BEST solution...

Thanks!

__
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MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/15/2016 11:20 AM, Warren Merkel wrote:

Bill

So far, I'm experiencing normal operation of the K-Pod with a 14ft RJ12
6C straight through cable.  Search for:

"09600 RJ12 6P6C Straight Modular Cable"

on Amazon.  It was $4.99 as an add-on item to a larger order.

At this point, I am not using the power modification on the K3, so I
will report back if the results vary after swapping over to feeding
power via the data cable.  Of course, your mileage might vary depending
on RF levels in your shack :)

Warren, KD4Z



From: ny9h at arrl.net (Bill Steffey NY9H)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2016 10:08:00 -0400
Subject: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping,

need a longer rj cable for kpod

is there a reason that an rj12 6c straight thru would not work,???

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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Lyle Johnson]

It is a 6-pin connector and the wire at pin 1 should be cut at the radio 
end and to be safe cut it at both ends.


Yes, people will use full 6-pin cables and may not observe any 
problems.  Regardless of such anecdotal evidencee, cut the wire to pin 1.


And of course, turn off the radio before you plug or unplug the cable at 
the radio end .  No, you won't damage the radio if you don't observe 
this.. Yes, you may be surprised if you don't observe this.


You can see the schematic of the K3 to see what things are connected to, 
and pencil in the mod to see what changes.


73,

Lyle KK7P


Can someone send me the RJ-45 pinout for the connection to the K-pod
(with and without the power mod)?

So far, I'm experiencing normal operation of the K-Pod with a 14ft RJ12
6C straight through cable.

is there a reason that an rj12 6c straight thru would not work,???


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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Clay Autery]

Can someone send me the RJ-45 pinout for the connection to the K-pod
(with and without the power mod)?

I'd like to take a look at it  I am somewhat confident that a
standard CAT-5e cable, while functional is not the BEST solution...

Thanks!

__
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MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/15/2016 11:20 AM, Warren Merkel wrote:
> Bill
>
> So far, I'm experiencing normal operation of the K-Pod with a 14ft RJ12
> 6C straight through cable.  Search for:
>
> "09600 RJ12 6P6C Straight Modular Cable"
>
> on Amazon.  It was $4.99 as an add-on item to a larger order.
>
> At this point, I am not using the power modification on the K3, so I
> will report back if the results vary after swapping over to feeding
> power via the data cable.  Of course, your mileage might vary depending
> on RF levels in your shack :)
>
> Warren, KD4Z
>
>
>> From: ny9h at arrl.net (Bill Steffey NY9H)
>> Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2016 10:08:00 -0400
>> Subject: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping,
>>
>> need a longer rj cable for kpod
>>
>> is there a reason that an rj12 6c straight thru would not work,???
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[Elecraft] [KX3] "GT" Command

[Joel Black]

When I had a K3, I used the GT command to set AGC off for data modes using 
GT000;

I cannot seem to get that to work with the KX3. Is it not available? My reading 
of The Programmers Reference implies it *is* available.

Thanks,
Joel - W4JBB
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[Elecraft] Subject: Re: Elecraft] KX2

[Edward R Cole]

Or just feed a grounded 50-foot tower with a 1/4 wave long stub 
alongside it space a few inches.  3/4 wave at 14-MHz is  53 feet and 
the 1/4 wave stub would be 17.7 foot.  Hook your coax across between 
stub and tower and slide it up till you find a 50-ohm match.  I've 
used small worm-gear hose clamps to secure the coax temporarily.

.
If you have a tri-band or 20m yagi mounted on top of the tower they 
will provide top-hat loading that will make the tower look higher 
(lower in frequency).  Good exercise for those using telescoping 
towers which one could match by raising or lowering.


But I have to say that my tribander at 50-foot always works better on 
10m than the 10m J-pole. So I hardly use the J-pole (serves as nice 
guy mast for ends of my 80/40m invert-V).


Too bad I do such little operating on HF  **just repaired my 
1296 and 900-MHz systems on another tower.


73, Ed - KL7UW



SNIP
Also, what's wrong with making a true "Zepp" antenna on the higher bands by
adding the required length of twin lead for the ?? matching section?  On
20 M and up, this would result in a fairly easy length of wire to deal with.

Anybody tried that approach? I know the "J-Poles" are popular on VHF, but
how about a 20 meter wire J-Pole?

73, Charlie k3ICH


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

[Rick WA6NHC]

No.  That was a specific statement.  The general version would read 
"Most generalizations..."  Alan used 'All' which is a specific.


Ah the vagaries of language...

Rick nhc


On 7/15/2016 2:46 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Including that one? :-)

Phil W7OX

On 7/15/16 2:06 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:

On 07/15/2016 11:02 AM, Jim Brown wrote:


There are exceptions to every generalization, even when the
generalization is good most of the time.


"All generalizations are wrong."

Alan N1AL


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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Richard Fjeld]

Kevin,
As I mentioned, I think this will depend on the Voltage Regulation level 
in the receiver.
The Elecraft gear operates down low in voltage pretty well.  I have 
experienced what
you describe with other gear I have owned,  but I have not compared if a 
difference is heard
when going from a lower battery voltage to a higher PS voltage with 
Elecraft gear.


I understand your problem is mainly with the RS-50.  If you don't have a 
scope, you
could put your DVM on AC and see if any AC can be measured on the 13.8 
DC output
terminals.  Try with, and without, some load. It's not a good test, but 
something to try.


BTW, my experience with talking to Astron has been very good. They will 
help you.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/15/2016 4:01 PM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:

Thanks Dick and Howard...

The RS-50 is pretty new - maybe 6 months old and is in daily use. It wasn't
until I had a rig I could easily run on batteries did I notice the noise.
The RS-12 is quite old, maybe 15 years? It had been in storage about 10
years until trying it out today. I think I need to dig into the RS-50 and
just make sure everything is soldered and connected well.

As for common mode currents in the antenna... would that only be an issue
during transmit? I have an OCF so I know it can be an issue on transmit.
The OCF has a 1:1 current BALUN in the center. Is that enough or do I need
to add some additional choking just below the BALUN? I have a couple of the
NI4L line isolators (http://www.ni4l.com/hf-choke-line-isolator-1-8-300-mhz/).
I could put one up there and see what it does. I also have plenty of
clip-ons laying around. I'll try them on the power lead from the supply to
the radio.

The reports above were with *receive only* (with and without an antenna
attached). On the RS-50 the hum I'm hearing is what I think I'd expect to
hear from a less-that-well filtered linear power supply. The hash/hiss
noise I hear sounds more like a switching power supply, which it is not. I
don't know what in the power supply could be generating that noise.

The RS-12 does not have either the hum or hiss that I can hear. It just
sounds like the noise floor bumped up a little. I'm thinking Dick is right
and it is just the receiver responding to the increased voltage though it
is only about .5 volts above the external battery pack I was using.

Is every power supply going to generate a little noise or should I expect
no difference moving from battery to power supply?

Kev


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Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

[Phil Wheeler]

Including that one? :-)

Phil W7OX

On 7/15/16 2:06 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:

On 07/15/2016 11:02 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

There are exceptions to every generalization, 
even when the

generalization is good most of the time.


"All generalizations are wrong."

Alan N1AL


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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Don Wilhelm]

Kev,

Yes, common mode current can be a problem on receive as well as transmit.
Transmit will cause RF-in-the-shack which is more obvious because you 
can be 'bitten' by RF.  On receive, the common mode current will result 
in added receive noise due to pickup of noise on the transmission line.


OCF antennas are notorious for common mode currents as are end feds.  A 
balanced antenna is usually easier to tame, but are not immune.


For effective common mode chokes (some call them baluns or in-line 
isolators), review the papers of K9YC Jim Brown on the subject. He has 
posted many times on this reflector - bottom line is that many baluns 
and in-line isolators are not very effective, how much so depends on the 
frequency and the core material used.


In addition, if your antenna feedline does not run perpendicular to the 
antenna for at least 1/4 wavelength, it can pick up currents from the 
radiator.  Yes, transmit is more extreme, but it happens in receive as 
well.  Antennas and transmission lines are bi-lateral devices, so what 
happens in transmit happens in reverse on receive.  The transmit effects 
are easier to measure because the signals are larger.


As for the power supply itself, heed the information provided by Howie 
Hoyt in this thread - he has done extensive testing in his development 
of the PAE Kx33 power supply.


73,
Don W3FPR



On 7/15/2016 5:01 PM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:

Thanks Dick and Howard...

The RS-50 is pretty new - maybe 6 months old and is in daily use. It wasn't
until I had a rig I could easily run on batteries did I notice the noise.
The RS-12 is quite old, maybe 15 years? It had been in storage about 10
years until trying it out today. I think I need to dig into the RS-50 and
just make sure everything is soldered and connected well.

As for common mode currents in the antenna... would that only be an issue
during transmit? I have an OCF so I know it can be an issue on transmit.
The OCF has a 1:1 current BALUN in the center. Is that enough or do I need
to add some additional choking just below the BALUN? I have a couple of the
NI4L line isolators (http://www.ni4l.com/hf-choke-line-isolator-1-8-300-mhz/).
I could put one up there and see what it does. I also have plenty of
clip-ons laying around. I'll try them on the power lead from the supply to
the radio.



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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion

[Richard Fjeld]

Hi Guy,

(Interesting, and nice writing, BTW)
I share your experience with batteries, only from the Bell side of 
things.  We ran the major switching centers you described.
We had individual cells that held 50 gallons of acid in each cell. A 
graph was kept for each cell.  They lasted many years.


My reply is addressing your comments *_only_* about 'floating' lead acid 
batteries on the 12 volt line.


Yes, you are correct with your statements about using a three step 
charging process for best charge.  I have been using a
lead acid boat battery floating across my 12V DC line to allow me to 
quickly end a qso, and properly shut down my K3
during a power outage. Most of the time the outage is short and I can 
resume my qso as if nothing happened.
I do not otherwise discharge/recharge it.  (My concern is hydrogen gas). 
Yes, a UPS can work.  I trust this arrangement more.


A deep cycle boat battery is intended for charge/dis-charge cycles 
repeatedly. It sometimes stays in a discharged state for hours or days
in high heat or cold before getting recharged again at a single step 
rate.  Despite these conditions, they last pretty well but decline 
gradually.
A deep cycle boat battery may be overkill for me if I don't intend to 
operate with it, but who knows what could happen?


Once again about lead acid batteries, if optimum is the goal, then I 
think the biggest thing we lack in our consumer
batteries today is not being able to monitor or charge individual cells. 
I prefer cells with removable caps for maintenance also.
How else can one tell what the specific gravity is, or the electrolyte 
level?   I can remember when car batteries
had the bus exposed so we could read the individual cell voltages. It 
was common practice to apply a  'boost-charge'
to a weak cell to bring the voltage up. I hate to see all the batteries 
becoming 'maintenance free'.   But DSFDF.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/15/2016 5:38 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

My first encounter with the rather complex issues of battery floating and
discharge were with AT&T Long Lines in the 60's, where we had such things
as 10,000 ampere 12 VDC supplies for many thousands of tube filaments, with
delta 440 AC driving huge motor generators in parallel, and strings of low
gravity 2' x 2' x 5' single cell batteries floating across the discharge
bus, and end cells to switch into the string to maintain 12 volts as the
batteries went into their normal discharge curves.

Carelessness in the battery room could get you burned, blinded, possibly
killed. Also having a major switching center go down because of batteries
in Washington, DC, could get one in a lot of trouble with various branches
of government. We had Bell Laboratories, Bell System Practices, and lots of
management in our ear all the time about how to do the batteries. Zero
tolerance for battery screw-ups, for any reason.



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Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

[Alan Bloom]

On 07/15/2016 11:02 AM, Jim Brown wrote:


There are exceptions to every generalization, even when the
generalization is good most of the time.


"All generalizations are wrong."

Alan N1AL

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Kevin - K4VD]

Thanks Dick and Howard...

The RS-50 is pretty new - maybe 6 months old and is in daily use. It wasn't
until I had a rig I could easily run on batteries did I notice the noise.
The RS-12 is quite old, maybe 15 years? It had been in storage about 10
years until trying it out today. I think I need to dig into the RS-50 and
just make sure everything is soldered and connected well.

As for common mode currents in the antenna... would that only be an issue
during transmit? I have an OCF so I know it can be an issue on transmit.
The OCF has a 1:1 current BALUN in the center. Is that enough or do I need
to add some additional choking just below the BALUN? I have a couple of the
NI4L line isolators (http://www.ni4l.com/hf-choke-line-isolator-1-8-300-mhz/).
I could put one up there and see what it does. I also have plenty of
clip-ons laying around. I'll try them on the power lead from the supply to
the radio.

The reports above were with *receive only* (with and without an antenna
attached). On the RS-50 the hum I'm hearing is what I think I'd expect to
hear from a less-that-well filtered linear power supply. The hash/hiss
noise I hear sounds more like a switching power supply, which it is not. I
don't know what in the power supply could be generating that noise.

The RS-12 does not have either the hum or hiss that I can hear. It just
sounds like the noise floor bumped up a little. I'm thinking Dick is right
and it is just the receiver responding to the increased voltage though it
is only about .5 volts above the external battery pack I was using.

Is every power supply going to generate a little noise or should I expect
no difference moving from battery to power supply?

Kev
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Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

[Jim Brown]

On Fri,7/15/2016 12:16 PM, brian wrote:
It might be more interesting to discuss something like $/db to get to 
closer to optimum.  Going from low dipole to a higher one might cost 
zero to a couple hundred and gain 3 db at about $10-$100/db. 



You will find exactly that analysis here.

http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf

Also, several changes of a dB or two add up. Anyone who's ever tried to 
make QSOs over a difficult path in a contest can tell you that as little 
as 2dB can be the difference between making the QSO and the other 
station CQing in your face.. Years ago, our NCCC resident statistician, 
N6ZFO, even managed to assign a percentage increase in Sweepstakes 
scores to a dB. In my station, I've worked to squeeze every dB out if 
that I can -- everything from antenna height to a better feedline to 
more accurately reading TX power (I use N8LP's power meter, which allows 
me to get right to the limit, whether it's 1.5kW or 5W).


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Howard Hoyt]

Hi Kevin,

It is very possible that what you are experiencing is noise induced by 
common-mode currents from your antenna system.  These currents take any 
path connected to the chassis of the rig including ANY AC mains 
connected power supply, regardless of whether it is a switcher or 
linear.  The 10~100 nF average input-to-output capacitance of AC 
operated power supplies provides a low-impedance path from the DC output 
to the AC mains at ham frequencies.  We have done a LOT of testing of 
this characteristic here at PAE in order to separate conducted RFI from 
RFI caused by common-mode current.   After identifying this as a problem 
which is usually worse in portable antennas we took extreme pains to 
reduce this I/O capacitance with the Kx33 and we were able to achieve 
less than 100pF, making the Kx33 much less conducive to allowing 
common-mode noise.


Elimination of common-mode currents has many benefits including cleaning 
up the pickup and radiation pattern of the antenna, elimination of 
receive noise, and reducing or eliminating RFI-induced events like alarm 
system triggering (ask me about that one).  When using a superhet 
receiver, baseband AC mains hum is not detected as it can be with a 
direct-conversion (DC) receiver.  This problem plagued early DC 
receivers like the Heathkit HW-7 which often buzzed like a bee when 
operated from a linear 12V supply.Fortunately this current can be 
greatly reduced by the use of common-mode choking on the antenna 
feedline, DC power lead or both. As has been stated here innumerable 
times, common-mode choking should be done on all antennas at the 
feedpoint and optionally but beneficially at the shack end as well.  An 
excellent reference on this subject has been written by our own Jim 
Brown K9YC and can be viewed at:


http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

Cheers & 73,
Howard Hoyt - WA4PSC
www.proaudioeng.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

[brian]

Guys,

There is another issue here.

That is :

Just because ones antenna pattern is inferior to an optimum one by 5 or 
even 20 db at the best arrival angle, that doesn't mean there is zero 
energy at the most important arrival angles.  It just means there is less.


QRPers often work the same stations as QRO guys. You see it all the time 
in contests. Likewise guys with high radiation angle antennas do work 
DX. Maybe just not always the really rare ones, or as many or as quickly.


-
It might be more interesting to discuss something like $/db to get to 
closer to optimum.  Going from low dipole to a higher one might cost 
zero to a couple hundred and gain 3 db at about $10-$100/db. Going from 
that higher dipole to something directive that picks up 4 db more might 
cost a couple kilobucks - $200-500/db.  Going from this directive array 
to something that picks up another 3 db might cost 5 to 10 kilobucks. 
Now you're at > $1000/db.  Diminishing returns can happen quickly.


Desktop dB are near the cheapest. One can pickup 10 db (from 100 w) for 
about $100-200/db by buying a used amp.  Desktop dB can be easier to 
keep "in the air" too.

--
So what is that extra db worth to you?  Real world constrains besides 
money often limit what's possible too.


Paper and electricity is cheaper than hardware.  Learn how to use EZNEC 
or another antenna modeling program. Spend pennies/per bad new antenna 
design rather than big bucks.  Go after the cheap dB first.  Debunk the 
myths about magic or folklore antennas that waste time and money.


Don't forget feedline loss.  One example was a local who was trying to 
work satellites using 50' of RG58 feedline.  Switching him over to 
LMR-400 doubled his uplink radiated power and improved reception by even 
more.


Read all you can. For example, K9YC's paper referenced in this thread 
illustrates how difficult it is to make a vertical work as well as even 
reasonable height dipole on the higher frequency bands. The ground 
reflection gain of a horizontal antenna (event a zig zag one) is hard to 
overcome.


73 de Brian/K3KO



On 7/15/2016 18:02 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Fri,7/15/2016 10:07 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:

shows an example where IONCAP says there is no (usable) path between
two stations, yet QSOs are made.


Wes,

There are exceptions to every generalization, even when the
generalization is good most of the time. I recall some well known person
who had come up poor but was no longer saying "I've been poor and I've
been rich, and rich is better." :)

Sure, there are times when a higher angle path is better than a low
angle path (or exists when the low angle path is not present). But
N6BV's statistical data for paths to various locations shows low angle
paths to be better far more often than higher angle paths. It also shows
high angle paths some smaller percentage of the time.

The HUGE problem with using the concept of "takeoff angle," and ONLY the
takeoff angle to describe and evaluate antenna performance is that by
looking at only one curve at a time, it fails to compare one antenna or
mounting height to another. Again, my work looking at the effects of
antenna height in a "flatland" QTH have all plotted the complete
vertical pattern ON THE SAME GRAPH, which clearly shows that for the
range of vertical angles where we can use the ionosphere, higher is
better! N6BV presents this quite well as a "figure of merit" for the
plots of his elevation studies in HFTA, while also showing the complete
vertical data.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Another KX3 vs K3S Query...

[MaverickNH]

Again, thanks for all the help on and off list. My ship came in a bit faster
than expected, so I've been able to order a built K3S-100 today, with ATU,
SubRX, DigVoice, GenRX, TCXO/REF, 2.8/1.8/1.0/400/250 8-pole filters, K-Pod,
mike and headset as well as a P3 with TXMON and SVGA. No 2m module - had to
economize somewhere ;-)



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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrading K3 --- order of installation

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Yes, it can be tricky (I call it "fiddly"), especially the first time. 

If the connectors are aligned with the KRX3A pc board as seen from above in
Fig 48 in the KRX3A manual, they are properly mated.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Removing the left side panel also makes it much easier to confirm that the
connectors at the rear left of the KRX3 have been mated correctly.
First-time assembly can be a little tricky, but becomes much easier after
the connector pins have settled into their correct alignment.
 
(The same is also true of the front-panel connectors, by the way.)

73 from Ian GM3SEK

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Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

[Jim Brown]

On Fri,7/15/2016 10:07 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:
shows an example where IONCAP says there is no (usable) path between 
two stations, yet QSOs are made.


Wes,

There are exceptions to every generalization, even when the 
generalization is good most of the time. I recall some well known person 
who had come up poor but was no longer saying "I've been poor and I've 
been rich, and rich is better." :)


Sure, there are times when a higher angle path is better than a low 
angle path (or exists when the low angle path is not present). But 
N6BV's statistical data for paths to various locations shows low angle 
paths to be better far more often than higher angle paths. It also shows 
high angle paths some smaller percentage of the time.


The HUGE problem with using the concept of "takeoff angle," and ONLY the 
takeoff angle to describe and evaluate antenna performance is that by 
looking at only one curve at a time, it fails to compare one antenna or 
mounting height to another. Again, my work looking at the effects of 
antenna height in a "flatland" QTH have all plotted the complete 
vertical pattern ON THE SAME GRAPH, which clearly shows that for the 
range of vertical angles where we can use the ionosphere, higher is 
better! N6BV presents this quite well as a "figure of merit" for the 
plots of his elevation studies in HFTA, while also showing the complete 
vertical data.


73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] K3s/10: Max FP temp?

[Bill Leonard N0CU]

I am starting to use some digital modes and couldn't find any
specs/guidelines on max power, duty cycle or FP temp. Running only 5W on
JT65 (ie, 50% duty cycle) I see the FP temp get up to 43C after just one or
two QSO's. Is an external fan recommended when using high duty cycle modes?

Thanks,

Bill N0CU



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2

[Henry Pollock - K4TMC]

For a 20M J-Pole look at N1LO's web page -
http://www.qsl.net/n1lo/antenna.htm

I have used his 10M collinear super J-Pole for years in my HOA-neighborhood
back yard hanging from tall tree limbs.  For the last 2 years it has been
supported by a 55 ft fiberglass mast.  It is my year-round go-to antenna
for checking conditions on 10M.

73,
Henry Pollock - K4TMC


On Fri, Jul 15, 2016 at 8:34 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH  wrote:

> One other question I have concerns the length of these "EFHW" antennas that
> many are using.
> That is, are they REALLY End Fed Half-Waves?  In other words, are they cut
> to be an electrical half wave-length or, are they simply a convenient
> length of wire, that is fed at one end?
> There could be a drastic difference in the feed point impedance depending
> on this parameter.
>
> Also, what's wrong with making a true "Zepp" antenna on the higher bands by
> adding the required length of twin lead for the ¼λ matching section?  On
> 20 M and up, this would result in a fairly easy length of wire to deal
> with.
>
> Anybody tried that approach? I know the "J-Poles" are popular on VHF, but
> how about a 20 meter wire J-Pole?
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
> Brown
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2016 11:42 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2
>
> On Thu,7/14/2016 2:54 PM, Fred C. Jensen wrote:
> > I use an EFHW on 80-10, no dedicated counterpoise, no coax length rqmts.
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

[Wes Stewart]

I'll make a few closing comments, as I suspect the moderator will be cutting 
this off soon.


When I used 45 degrees, that was a number out of a hat for illustrative purposes 
only.  The point being that we hams tend to think that we can "force" the TOA to 
be lower, and lower is always "better."  NM7M (SK) in his book, "The Big Guns 
Guide to Low-Band Propagation" mentions the case where a low angle signal (10 
degrees) can't penetrate the E-layer and needs many more hops than a higher 
angle signal that does penetrate and gets to the F-layer were fewer hops are 
necessary to cover the same path.


Eric, KL7AJ, has a couple of thought-provoking papers in QST that have a 
different take as well.  They are, "Gimme and X, Gimme an O", QST, Dec. 2010,
 pp 33-37 and "Three Wrong Assumptions about the Ionosphere", QST, Mar 2012, pp 
40-42.


Carl, K9LA, in a presentation 
(http://wwrof.org/webinar-archive/a-long-overdue-review-of-gray-line-propagation-on-the-low-bands-by-carl-luetzelschwab-k9la/) 
shows an example where IONCAP says there is no (usable) path between two 
stations, yet QSOs are made.


Wes



On 7/13/2016 5:48 PM, David Gilbert wrote:


I've played around with VOACAP a lot in the past.  Possibly you want to argue 
with it's validity, but I can tell you that the percentage of time it shows 
signals optimally arriving at 45 degrees is much less than the percentage of 
time they arrive closer to 10 degrees ... certainly for any kind of DX work 
and most of the time for domestic work here in the U.S.  That depends upon the 
band, of course, and also the time of the opening (optimum angles are lower at 
openings and closings versus mid-opening), but in general the best TOA's area 
lot lower than most hams assume.


If low takeoff angles weren't generally desirable our hobby has several 
generations of very misguided members who have squandered millions of dollars.


Dave   AB7E


On 7/13/2016 5:02 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:

Jim, I've looked at your stuff in the past.

But, "improvement" is in the eye of the beholder.  The ionosphere determines 
the optimum TOA, not the antenna. Taking heroic measures to get the max TOA 
down to 10 degrees (a near impossibility over dirt) when the signals are 
arriving at 45 degrees is hardly optimum.


Anecdotal evidence is mostly worthless but for what it's worth, I have 48 
entities worked on 160 meters from here in the desert using no more than 500 
watts into an inverted-V, apex at 45' ends at 6'.  Everyone "knows" that this 
can't possibly work because it radiates straight up.  (Except that it doesn't)


Wes


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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Lyle Johnson]

I suggest cutting the wire connected to pin 1 at the radio end. Can't 
hurt to cut it at both ends.  Otherwise, there is a possibility of the 
radio doing things you prefer it to not do, probably precisely when you 
prefer that it not do those things...


The function associated with pin 1 is not used in the K-Pod, but is used 
in the radio and at the factory.


If you are just curious why this might be, please examine the schematics 
for the K3 available on the Elecraft website.


73,

Lyle KK7P



So far, I'm experiencing normal operation of the K-Pod with a 14ft RJ12
6C straight through cable.


need a longer rj cable for kpod

is there a reason that an rj12 6c straight thru would not work,???


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Re: [Elecraft] KX2

[Fred C. Jensen]

OK, my "80-10 EFHW", which is how it's marketed, is really an "EFHWO8OBWGOOBT"? 
 (End Fed On 80 But Works Great On Other Bands Too). :-)

73,

Fred K6DGW
TDY in SoCal on my Kindle

Rick Robinson  wrote:
>I don't want to come off as a "A-Hole" but the use of efhw for any end fed
>antenna is really getting out of hand. We as hams need to step up our game
>in regards to our communication skills of day to day speech. We, as
>hams,are regarded as communication specialists and this should go with our
>speech as well as our knowledge. A efhw is a single band, narrow frequency,
>antenna. It is a half wave of one frequency with regards to the length of
>the antenna with some minor adjustments for its mounting. An end fed
>antenna is just that, a random length of wire fed at one end of the wire. I
>know this may seem to some as being petty but it degrades the knowledge we
>have learned as amateurs. If this persists the ones joining the hobby may
>think that this is an accurate description and then spread this to others,
>as it seems it already has, and dumb down our status within part 97.1 (d)
>Expansion of the existing reservoir within the amateur radio service of
>trained operators, technicians, and electronics experts. My 2 cents.
>
>-- 
>Rick, W8ZT
>
>Sent from Gmail Mobile
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[Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Warren Merkel]

Bill

So far, I'm experiencing normal operation of the K-Pod with a 14ft RJ12
6C straight through cable.  Search for:

"09600 RJ12 6P6C Straight Modular Cable"

on Amazon.  It was $4.99 as an add-on item to a larger order.

At this point, I am not using the power modification on the K3, so I
will report back if the results vary after swapping over to feeding
power via the data cable.  Of course, your mileage might vary depending
on RF levels in your shack :)

Warren, KD4Z


>From: ny9h at arrl.net (Bill Steffey NY9H)
>Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2016 10:08:00 -0400
>Subject: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping,
>
>need a longer rj cable for kpod
>
>is there a reason that an rj12 6c straight thru would not work,???
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[Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi... I have a KX3 and normally run it on batteries. I also have a
Flex-6500 that runs on a big RS-50.

Last night during the QRP Fox Hunt (only 1 pelt) I decided to shutdown the
Flex and give the KX3 a shot. I powered up the Flex on its internal
batteries and, while I had the headphones on, plugged the RS-50 into it.

I was surprised with what I heard. Not only a low freq hum (60 or 120 Hz,
can't tell) but also a hash sound. The affect was fairly dramatic. I never
noticed anything on the Flex because I never ran that on batteries.

Today I swapped the KX3 between an old RS-12 linear I had laying around, a
12 V 15 Ah LiFePO4 battery pack and the internal batteries.

Going from internal (9.9V) to LiFePO4 (13.0V) I could hear no difference
and see no difference on the S-meter. I tried with the antenna connected
and disconnected.

Going from internal to the RS-12 (13.5 V) i could hear an increase in noise
level, about +S1, almost like turning up the RF gain a tad. When the
antenna was removed I heard no difference between internal battery and
RS-12. The additional noise wasn't objectionable - just sounded like the
noise floor jumped up a bit. No hum, no hash (or hiss).

I'm not sure what to make of this. It is apparent my RS-50 is in need of
some attention. I've had hit-and-miss experiences with Astron over the
years and now seeking an alternative. I just want something to work and
work well. I'm not even sure the RS-12 is up to spec with the small
increase in noise. My expectation is no change in noise going between
battery and power supply. Is this unrealistic?

eham's reviews are kind of not very helpful. There's plenty of good and
plenty of bad said about most makes and models. I'm thinking maybe I want
to run 100% battery for both the Flex and KX3 and just recharge when not in
use but I'm not sure how realistic that is. I do know I don't want to just
settle for the additional noise.

Switchers don't seem to be an option. While it might sound quiet at the
moment I can always see/hear that noise snake crawling across the panoramic
display right towards my current QSO.

Has anyone done some A/B comparisons while listening? I'm curious what you
may have experienced.

Thanks,
Kev K4VD
(VD = Vacation Day)
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[Elecraft] KX2

[Rick Robinson]

I don't want to come off as a "A-Hole" but the use of efhw for any end fed
antenna is really getting out of hand. We as hams need to step up our game
in regards to our communication skills of day to day speech. We, as
hams,are regarded as communication specialists and this should go with our
speech as well as our knowledge. A efhw is a single band, narrow frequency,
antenna. It is a half wave of one frequency with regards to the length of
the antenna with some minor adjustments for its mounting. An end fed
antenna is just that, a random length of wire fed at one end of the wire. I
know this may seem to some as being petty but it degrades the knowledge we
have learned as amateurs. If this persists the ones joining the hobby may
think that this is an accurate description and then spread this to others,
as it seems it already has, and dumb down our status within part 97.1 (d)
Expansion of the existing reservoir within the amateur radio service of
trained operators, technicians, and electronics experts. My 2 cents.

-- 
Rick, W8ZT

Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2

[Jim GM]

Soun ds like a menu setting  is in the wrong setting.

Jim K9TF

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2

[Don Wilhelm]

The terminology is very *important* for clarity in what you are talking 
about - especially in the field of antennas where many classic names 
have been modified so that there is no longer any meaning in the name - 
I pointed this out in reference to the number of antennas referred to as 
a Zepp.


For instance, the "EFHW" referred to below is *not* an EFHW, but an end 
fed random wire (look at the description).
The "HW" part refers to "halfwave", and a halfwave radiator has specific 
charactistics.  Its behavior is different than feeding a wire of random 
length.


So please, lets call things by their proper names so we all can 
understand each other when we are communicating.  Failure to call things 
by their proper designation leads to communications chaos.
If you mean a real end fed halfwave, please tell us what band it is 
resonant on and what the matching device is.  If you have a non-resonant 
end fed wire, please tell us how long it is and tell us what the 
matching device is.  By that means, we can all understand each other 
more clearly.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 7/15/2016 10:31 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
There is a terminology issue, Charlie. The "EFHW" I use is this one: 
http://www.earchi.org/92011endfedfiles/Endfed6_40.pdf and is fed via a 
9:1 UN-UN. Uses the coax shield as a counterpoise and seems to work 
well over the bands of interest -- depending on the length of wire 
used. An ATU is generally essential, and the one in the KX2 is very 
capable.




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Re: [Elecraft] Winlink & K3 settings

[w4grj]

Tony,

I use to have a K3, still enjoy this list.

I run a P3 SCS modem on winlink  I think the issue now could be band
conditions.

They are pretty bad http://www.bandconditions.com/ also, the propagation
channel selection

in Winlink Express is showing the same here in Florida.

 

Good Luck,

Jack

W4GRJ/AFA4DG

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tony
Lyon
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 9:58 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Winlink & K3 settings

 

Folks,

I recently set up an SCS DR-7400 with my K3 on Winlink.

I must have some settings that

are slightly off, since my link

up capabilities (HF) are not

as reliable as I expected.

 

So, I would appreciate feedback

from Winlink users who are actively using their K3.

 

Here is what I am interested in:

TNC setup values in Winlink (RMS Express)

 

K3 settings used.

 

73,

Tony Lyon (KJ5XF)

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2

[Don Wilhelm]

Charlie,

There is nothing wrong with making a true Zepp antenna for any band - we 
usually refer to them as a J-Pole that is popular at VHF/UHF.

Use 300 ohm transmission line for the 1/4 wave matching section.
See the works of Gary O'Neil N3GO on J-poles for discussion of the ideal 
characteristic impedance of the matching section.  See 
http://www.knightlites.org/n3go_workshop/N3GO_JPole.xls for a worksheet 
to give you all the details.


Your J-Pole does not have to be oriented vertically - it will work as a 
horizontal antenna or a sloper.  It can be bent between the radiator and 
the matching section.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/15/2016 8:34 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

Also, what's wrong with making a true "Zepp" antenna on the higher bands by
adding the required length of twin lead for the ¼λ matching section?  On
20 M and up, this would result in a fairly easy length of wire to deal with.

Anybody tried that approach? I know the "J-Poles" are popular on VHF, but
how about a 20 meter wire J-Pole?



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2

[Robert Cunnings]

Here's another aricle, by W8JI, on feeding the EFHW:

http://www.w8ji.com/end-fed_1_2_wave_matching_system_end%20feed.htm

Bob NW8L

On Thu, 14 Jul 2016, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Dave,

All that is theoretical does not translate directly to the physical world.
Take a look at http://www.aa5tb.com/efha.html for more information.
The counterpoise does not need to be very long, but it does need to be 
present.


If the coupling between the high impedance side of the matching device is 
connected at the "ground side" to the shield of the coax, then the coax 
shield can act as the counterpoise (with the attendant risk of 
RF-in-the-shack), but does require some minimum length of coax to be 
effective - the PAR EndFedZ is one example.


73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2

[Phil Wheeler]

There is a terminology issue, Charlie. The "EFHW" 
I use is this one: 
http://www.earchi.org/92011endfedfiles/Endfed6_40.pdf 
and is fed via a 9:1 UN-UN. Uses the coax shield 
as a counterpoise and seems to work well over the 
bands of interest -- depending on the length of 
wire used. An ATU is generally essential, and the 
one in the KX2 is very capable.


Phil W7OX

On 7/15/16 5:34 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

One other question I have concerns the length of these "EFHW" antennas that
many are using.
That is, are they REALLY End Fed Half-Waves?  In other words, are they cut
to be an electrical half wave-length or, are they simply a convenient
length of wire, that is fed at one end?
There could be a drastic difference in the feed point impedance depending
on this parameter.

Also, what's wrong with making a true "Zepp" antenna on the higher bands by
adding the required length of twin lead for the ¼λ matching section?  On
20 M and up, this would result in a fairly easy length of wire to deal with.

Anybody tried that approach? I know the "J-Poles" are popular on VHF, but
how about a 20 meter wire J-Pole?

73, Charlie k3ICH


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Brown
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2016 11:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2

On Thu,7/14/2016 2:54 PM, Fred C. Jensen wrote:

I use an EFHW on 80-10, no dedicated counterpoise, no coax length rqmts.


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[Elecraft] Winlink & K3 settings

[Tony Lyon]

Folks,
I recently set up an SCS DR-7400 with my K3 on Winlink.
I must have some settings that
are slightly off, since my link
up capabilities (HF) are not
as reliable as I expected.

So, I would appreciate feedback
from Winlink users who are actively using their K3.

Here is what I am interested in:
TNC setup values in Winlink (RMS Express)

K3 settings used.

73,
Tony Lyon (KJ5XF)
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[Elecraft] FS: K3/100 & P3

[Bill Coleman]

Elecraft K3/100 with KAT3A, 2.7kHz filter, 700Hz filter (INRAD), 400Hz 
filter, PR6 preamp, KSYNTH3A upgrade. Elecraft P3 Panadapter with SVGA 
and TXMON (2KW sensor). High Serial numbers (K3:86xx, P3:25xx). No 
scratches, non-smoker. Package deal only, asking $3900 for both, plus 
shipping & insurance from 13850.   THX Bill  N2BC

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

One other question I have concerns the length of these "EFHW" antennas that
many are using.
That is, are they REALLY End Fed Half-Waves?  In other words, are they cut
to be an electrical half wave-length or, are they simply a convenient
length of wire, that is fed at one end?
There could be a drastic difference in the feed point impedance depending
on this parameter.

Also, what's wrong with making a true "Zepp" antenna on the higher bands by
adding the required length of twin lead for the ¼λ matching section?  On
20 M and up, this would result in a fairly easy length of wire to deal with.

Anybody tried that approach? I know the "J-Poles" are popular on VHF, but
how about a 20 meter wire J-Pole?

73, Charlie k3ICH


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Brown
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2016 11:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2

On Thu,7/14/2016 2:54 PM, Fred C. Jensen wrote:
> I use an EFHW on 80-10, no dedicated counterpoise, no coax length rqmts.



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[Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

1) For the low bands, the overwhelming consideration is reduction in near
field losses, both dielectric and I squared R (I2R) losses.

2) We need to remember that for non salt water situations vertically
polarized RF is NOT reflected from dirt and rock. For all intents and
purposes it is absorbed. Vertically polarized reflection enhancement
happens over salt water, but certainly not over rocky or rock-based
surfaces.

3) Feedline loss is an issue for distant antennas, **particularly** what
the loss will become long term, after extended exposure to the environment.

4) On the low bands are 1/4 wave radials are really the great deal on low
bands that ham mythology says they are? We need a counterpoise, and 4 by
1/4 wave radials are only *one* choice with little to recommend it except
simplicity at the feedpoint. The worst thing about many counterpoise
schemes is that they induce current in the ground, and that is loss. The
mechanics that govern the induction are a bit murky and not at all well
known. We need a counterpoise to store electrons for a half cycle. Whether
that device is naturally resonant on frequency only saves you complexity at
the feedpoint. What you will be stuck with permanently is however much LOSS
is invoked by the design.

Again, the word is LOSS.  Mitigate loss in your complete antenna *system*
design. Regarding your particular situation:

Stand at your two possible installation points. Look at your most distant
horizon in any important direction. ANYTHING below tree top, or mountain
ridge-top line, even 15, 30, 50 miles away, is severely attenuated, if not
lost to -30, -40 dB effects. If you have a clutterless view to distant
horizon, for vertical polarization this will advantage you the most because
it removes dielectric and I2R lossy clutter in the path to very useful low
angles. Remember that reflection enhancement in your situation only applies
to horizontally polarized antennas.

Designing your antenna, 1) use a counterpoise with least loss from ground
induction, 2) move the RF current maximum up on the vertical conductor, 3)
**expect and prepare yourself** for matching a miscellaneous impedance at
the feedpoint. This misc feed Z is most likely for the best combination of
1) and 2).

If you really are concentrating on efficiency, get the current maximum up
in the air, and use a low ground induction loss counterpoise.

If you go distant installation due to clutter considerations, PAY UP for a
permanent hardline coax feed, unless you are willing to put up ***BARE***
wire open wire feedline you construct yourself. Buryflex flooded coax would
be a medium solution but has all the critter and outdoor accident issues.

Commercial balanced line deteriorates in time. Been there, done that, never
again. Even with the open wire, you can have common mode issues on the
balanced line nearly impossible to rectify, unless you take steps in the
last quarter wave or so before the antenna. The balanced feedline run will
need to be an odd multiple of a quarter wave accounting for velocity
factor.

Common mode current on the line will go almost entirely to loss.

73, Guy K2AV

On Tuesday, July 12, 2016, Dauer, Edward  wrote:

> So long as antenna discussions on the reflector haven’t been met with the
> “OT” cloture lately, I have an antenna question of a different sort.  I am
> contemplating a ¼ wave vertical with four elevated radials for 80 meters.
> My choices for siting it are two – one is near the top of the property
> (about 8,600 feet ASL), somewhat in the clear, and within 100 feet from the
> operating position.  The other is in a meadow near the property boundary,
> which is much more open and a just a bit higher – but it has two other
> significant characteristics.  One is that the land slopes away from that
> site, over about half the compass from NNW to SSE, at a slope of 10 to 15%
> for about a half mile.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

We need to distinguish between an end fed wire (EFW) and an end fed
HALF WAVE wire (EFHW). If one has an actual half wave wire being
called by the name EFHW, several things are true. One, the feed Z at
the end is ridiculously high, with HV and painful burns in play even
for 100W. Many (most?) antenna tuners do NOT handle Z that high, while
most tuners DO handle 600 ohm Z from an EFW well, particularly with
common 4:1 reduction devices.

One of the advantages of an EFHW fed at the ground, is that voltage
being very high means that current is very low, and even otherwise
pathetic grounds are efficient. You CAN feed an EFHW against a ground
rod. In a portable situation something like one of those six inch
galvanized nails driven mostly into the ground and soaked with a
little water, will settle the counterpoise issue nicely.

On 80 meters an end fed half wave L (EFHWL) fed against ground is
probably the best all around performing single wire 80m antenna
available. It's lack of popularity is due to not being able to
successfully feed it directly from coax and lack of tuner boxes off
the shelf Needs a matching network at the feedpoint, and at QRO, has
to deal with very high RF voltages. It has dual polarization, working
for both DX and local, with no holes in the pattern, and the current
maximum is up around the bend in the L, reducing vertical polarization
loss to both ground and nearby clutter.

On the other hand an end fed wire (EFW) that stays well away from even
quarter wave multiples on bands in use, particularly with a 4:1
reduction device, will tune easily. The disadvantage with EFW is that
pathetic ground no longer functions well as a counterpoise. The tuner
needs to isolate ground and the case from the antenna side tuner
connections, one of which needs to be a planned counterpoise, and the
isolation needs to be efficient (not lossy) with high reactance on the
antenna side.

You can get RF through lesser arrangements and make contacts, but you
are paying for the "lesser" with loss.

I agree that EFHW's are "tweaky". IMHO more than made up for by
performance. EFHW "tweaky" *can* be tamed to considerable degree, but
that's another subject.

73, Guy K2AV


On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 8:26 PM, David Gilbert  wrote:
> Yup ... that all makes sense.  The counterpoise as described by that link is
> at the antenna where it should be, and it compensates for the fact that the
> network can't produce an infinitely high impedance feed.  I stand corrected.
>
> Using the coax for a "counterpoise" is a really bad idea, though. There
> would essentially be no defined counterpoise.   There would be no control at
> all over what kind of balance the coax provides to the matching network at
> the end of the EFHW.  Length of the coax would have an effect, and not just
> the requirement for some minimum length ... the transmission line effect of
> the length would change its characteristics as seen by the antenna.
> Proximity of the coax to nearby structures would also affect what the
> antenna actually saw.
>
> 73,
> Dave  AB7E
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Hi Wes, et al.

I went looking through emails from you to find the reference, because I
wanted to read it. I did not locate or recognize the reference in those
emails. That aside...

For conversation purposes I'll begin this assuming a flooded wet cell
battery. That's because I have a pair of T-105 6 volt 225AH cells in series
in my RV to supply the "house" "12" VDC needs. T-105's have been very
common in golf carts for decades. In larger RV's it's not uncommon to see
four T-105's in series parallel to supply house 12VDC. T-105's are large
deep cycle flooded wet cells. They are an easy choice for an RV's house DC
circuits. It's a very mature application, over 30 years of this scheme in
RV's.

An RV has extensive "12" volt wiring. The actual satisfactory running DC
voltage on the house DC wiring can be 11 to 14.4 volts. To supply the house
DC from RV park AC mains, the RV uses a high amperage three stage battery
charger, with anywhere from 35 to 100 amps bulk charge rate depending on
the specific battery type and configuration. Nomenclature in the RV
business for this charger is "converter/charger" which I will denote
hereafter with "C/C".

The C/C serves two functions: 1) Supplies all the myriad 12 volt RV stuff:
lights, blowers, fans, plus controls for fridge, heat, hot water heater,
just to name a few. It converts the park AC to DC. 2) Charges the batteries
to keep them ready for a common and deliberate operation of the RV without
an AC voltage source, as in a park without electric hookups during
no-generators-running quiet time. It's very common to run an AC generator
from early afternoon until after supper to supply air conditioning, power
the microwave, and recharge batteries. Then the generator is shut down and
all runs off the house batteries until the next afternoon. A lot of us keep
small inverters, 12VDC to 120V, to power cellphone chargers, game boxes,
etc, when on batteries.

The charging stages are:

1) Bulk charge, current limited. Where up to 80% of the battery energy
capacity is replaced by the charger at maximum steady current amp rating of
the charger. This charge current continues until the battery voltage
reaches 14.4 volts.

2) Absorption charge, voltage limited. Voltage is held at a constant 14.4
volts and the current declines until the battery is 98% charged.

3) Float charge, voltage and current limited. Not more than 13.4 volts and
usually less than 1 amp of current **into the battery**. This in time will
bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. This maintenance float
charge will not boil or heat batteries but will maintain the batteries at
100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity. Some Gel
Cell and AGM batteries may require different settings or chargers specific
to the battery. This is related to differing optimal voltages and heat
sensitivities. But the rough concept is the same.

When the C/C is running from RV park or generator AC, the RV's DC bus is
supplied from the C/C. In float charge the C/C will supply the RV DC at
13.4 VDC. If the AC cuts out at the park or the generator goes off, the
house DC circuits will begin to discharge the battery. The battery voltage
will quickly drop to the normal battery discharge curve in the upper 12.x
range and continue down.

When the AC comes back on, before it kicks in, the C/C detects that the
battery is down on the discharge curve and re-initiates at step 1).

The stink when many hams talk about operating their shack with a battery
float, is that they envision hooking a battery to the output of a plain
single voltage Astron RS35 or some such, the usual 13.8 volts regulated,
fixed supply. One cannot properly care for a battery this way, because it
needs the three charge stages for good health. If what one meant by float
was a "single voltage float", then no, one cannot *properly* float a
battery on one's ham station. After the first discharge event, the battery
will not recharge to full charge. It needs the bulk charge voltage to
recharge.

However, I would not call my RV a "battery float", because "float" is only
*one* charge condition of the three RV C/C charge states. But I do have ham
friends who call that "float" because that's how the wires run. This little
double meaning can make for some confused conversations until the specifics
are brought to light.

If what you meant is battery always in the circuit, no blip switching
interruptions from the "uninterruptible" UPS, then yes, you can use the RV
style setup in a ham station, **with a list of caveats**. You probably do
not want to use T-105's for a number of reasons. But you will need to
obtain a three or four stage charger setup designed for an appropriate
battery.

Caveats:

a) You need an RV style charger-converter, or equivalent specifically
matched to the battery. Some equivalents have been described in this
thread.

b) The bulk charge rate of the C/C must match the battery normal charge
maximum. More C/C bulk charge amps than the battery max no

Re: [Elecraft] KX2

[Edward R Cole]

Don's comments on the fact that a J-pole is merely a Zepp where the 
1/2 wave radiator is vertical is something I discovered a few years 
ago.  I have a dual-band J-pole on 10m/6m which works well.


Note that the bottom end of the 1/4 wave matching stub is 
shorted.  By attaching coax to the stub one can find 50-ohm match 
just by sliding up from the ground end.  It was about six inches for 
the 10m J-pole.


I do not have my construction page back on my website as yet.  I used 
aluminum tubing about 25-foot long for the 10m version.  You might 
want to use a common-mode choke at the coax feed to prevent coax radiation.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrading K3 --- order of installation

[Ian White]

Removing the left side panel also makes it much easier to confirm that
the connectors at the rear left of the KRX3 have been mated correctly.
First-time assembly can be a little tricky, but becomes much easier
after the connector pins have settled into their correct alignment.
 
(The same is also true of the front-panel connectors, by the way.)

73 from Ian GM3SEK


>-Original Message-
>From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>Don Wilhelm
>Sent: 15 July 2016 00:37
>To: Brian F Wruble; Elecraft Reflector
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrading K3 --- order of installation
>
>Brian,
>
>Those are in physically different areas of the K3, so I don't think the
>order is significant.
>
>If you have the KRX3 installed, I would suggest adding the KBPF3A first
>(don't forget the added capacitor to the regulator output), and then
>leave the KRX3 assembly out until you have installed the KXV3B.  There
>is no electrical significance to my suggested order, but without the
>KRX3 in place, you will have more "finger room" when installing the
KXV3B.
>
>Hint on the KXV3B - remove the left side panel to give you more access,
>and slightly form the male pins of the KXV3B to the K3 rear before
>trying to insert them into the header.  Put the pins on a flat surface
>and apply a bit of pressure - you only need to bend them a bit.  You
>will understand if you first try to put the pins into the header before
>bending the pins.
>Of course, you could remove the entire rear panel to get the pins to
>align, but that is an extreme solution to the problem.  The slightly
>bent pins will not pose any problem once the KXV3B is fastened in
place.
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>
>On 7/14/2016 4:10 PM, Brian F Wruble wrote:
>> When the K3S first came out, I ordered the new synthesizer boards for
my
>K3, and they installed easily and worked great.
>>
>>   I also ordered the KXV3B, KAT3A and the KBPF3A.  I am just now
getting
>ready to install these.  Does anybody have advice on the best order to
install
>them?  Or any cautions, lessons learned, etc.?
>>
>> Tnx.  73 de Brian W3BW
>>
>> Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
>> Sent from my iPad Air 2
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>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2

[David Gilbert]

By "works great" I assume you mean it loads well, which is 
understandable since a horizontal wire 6 feet off the ground is going to 
look pretty lossy.


Dave   AB7E


On 7/14/2016 10:17 PM, k6dgw wrote:
 
80.  KAT3 will match it on 160, haven't tried to make any Q's there yet. Works great everywhere else considering it's strung on the 6' fence.

Fred K6DGWTDY in Socal (softball)


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Jim Brown 
Date: 7/14/16  20:41  (GMT-08:00)
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2

On Thu,7/14/2016 2:54 PM, Fred C. Jensen wrote:

I use an EFHW on 80-10, no dedicated counterpoise, no coax length rqmts.

On what frequency is it a halfwave? :)

73, Jim

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