Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread Jessie Oberreuter


On Sun, 8 Jan 2017, Cameron Francey wrote:


I must have stepped back into the dark ages!  I just sold all my modern
(big three makes) stuff and my shack now consists only of a K2/100 and a
KAT100 and a K1 for when I feel like getting out of the shack.


 Elecraft has had a profound impact on me.  It started with the K1. I
bought two kits, one for myself and one for my elmer (ki7el).  We had a
wonderful time building them, and then I was shocked when it ran cw
circles around my fully loaded 706m2!  That experience ultimately lead me
to a much deeper understanding of every aspect of radio engineering.
 Bolstered by my success with the K1, I built a K2, and then became a
kit junky.  When the K3 was announced, I pre-ordered without a second
thought.  Today, I also have a KX3.  The K1 remains my backpacking rig of
choice.  The KX3 travels with me to ki7el's place roughly once a month for
multi-op contesting -- the rig, the amp, and the pan-adaptor all fit in a
shoulder bag :).  James (ki7el) rocks a K2/100, so for multi-mode
contests, I try to bring my K2/10 and KXPA100 so we're both running K2s.
Finally, the K3 is the beloved center of my home station.
 Over the years, we've both become convinced that nothing beats an
Elecraft.  They aren't inexpensive, but you really do get what you pay for
in quality, survivability, serviceability, and support. -kb7psg
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Yes, it is clear Elecraft's primary customer base has shifted from builders
to operators. By "operators" I mean Hams who want a rig they plug in, turn
on, and use on the air or perhaps tinker with interfacing it with their
computer, etc. 

I agree with Kevin. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
kev...@coho.net
Sent: Saturday, January 7, 2017 2:56 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

Sigh

 Kevin.  KD5ONS


On 1/7/2017 2:36 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:
> Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you 
> would call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in 
> the case of the DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real 
> friendship with a guy out west, who worked from his home. Eventually 
> we shared phone numbers. Or you would turn to the back of the K2 
> manual and there find the complete schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit 
> Details"?  Yeah, I know, those were the days of thru-hole kits, solder 
> smoke, and, "gee I wish I had not done that", when you lifted a trace 
> and had to break out the blue wire to make things right again. Things 
> were better thenthose really were the good old days...things were 
> more personal then.
>
> Jim, W4ATK
>
> Licensed: General Class Sept 1953
>
> K2, K-Line
>
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> kev...@coho.net
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s meter

2017-01-07 Thread Nr4c
Things are tough. 

And I want a Macro to turn the radio ON!  

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jan 7, 2017, at 7:47 PM, George Kidder  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I initially started using data modes by the "set the power to maximum " 
> method, and experienced the same problems that others have seen, although 
> with care the transmissions were proper.  I like to run digital at 50 W max, 
> to lessen the strain on the equipment.  The advantage of this method was that 
> the power on the band in use was not reduced, so that when going back to SW 
> or SSB, the full power was still set.  The "K3 recommended " method does a 
> fine job, but requires reducing the power to 50 W.  Then, when one returns to 
> CW or SSB, you are still at 50W, since power is not saved "per mode".
> 
> Would a software change which saves power "per mode" as well as "per band" be 
> possible?  If so, I respectfully request it.
> 
> George, W3HBM
> 
> 
>> On 1/7/2017 5:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>> Guy is quite correct.  The K3 controls power very well, so if you have set 
>> the power knob to some particular power, that will be very close to the 
>> power you actually get.  There is normally no need to monitor it - as long 
>> as other conditions are followed.
>> 
>> The most common error for soundcard data modes is for hams who choose to 
>> follow the common internet advice to "set the power to maximum and control 
>> the power with the audio drive" - that does not work well with the K3, K3S, 
>> KX2 or KX3 (or the K2 for that matter).  Drive the Elecraft ALC meter as 
>> indicated in the manual - 5 to 7 bars for SSB and 4 bars solid with the 5th 
>> bar flickering for soundcard data modes.
>> 
>> Elecraft radios do not control power in the same way as other transceivers, 
>> so follow the instructions given for your Elecraft transceiver and first set 
>> the audio drive properly and control the power output with the power knob.  
>> Failure to do that will result in what I call "power hunting" where the 
>> power output will vary significantly.
>> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I initially started using data modes by the "set the power to maximum ..." 
> method, and experienced the same problems that others have seen, although 
> with care the transmissions were proper.  I like to run digital at 50 W max, 
> to lessen the strain on the equipment.  The advantage of this method was that 
> the power on the band in use was not reduced, so that when going back to SW 
> or SSB, the full power was still set.  The "K3 recommended " method does a 
> fine job, but requires reducing the power to 50 W.  Then, when one returns to 
> CW or SSB, you are still at 50W, since power is not saved "per mode".
> 
> Would a software change which saves power "per mode" as well as "per band" be 
> possible?  If so, I respectfully request it.
> 
> George, W3HBM
> 
> 
>> On 1/7/2017 5:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>> Guy is quite correct.  The K3 controls power very well, so if you have set 
>> the power knob to some particular power, that will be very close to the 
>> power you actually get.  There is normally no need to monitor it - as long 
>> as other conditions are followed.
>> 
>> The most common error for soundcard data modes is for hams who choose to 
>> follow the common internet advice to "set the power to maximum and control 
>> the power with the audio drive" - that does not work well with the K3, K3S, 
>> KX2 or KX3 (or the K2 for that matter).  Drive the Elecraft ALC meter as 
>> indicated in the manual - 5 to 7 bars for SSB and 4 bars solid with the 5th 
>> bar flickering for soundcard data modes.
>> 
>> Elecraft radios do not control power in the same way as other transceivers, 
>> so follow the instructions given for your Elecraft transceiver and first set 
>> the audio drive properly and control the power output with the power knob.  
>> Failure to do that will result in what I call "power hunting" where the 
>> power output will vary significantly.
>> 
>> If I must elaborate on the "why" of all this, Elecraft radios control the 
>> power output in a closed loop - other amateur transceivers use an open loop 
>> "drive" control, commercial transceivers may use a closed loop system 
>> similar to Elecraft. The power output is measured and the MCU compares that 
>> output with the power requested by the power knob.  If the actual power is 
>> less than requested, the drive will be increased to make the output equal to 
>> that requested.  So if the audio drive is not sufficient, yes power will be 
>> lower than the requested value and the transceiver will go to full possible 
>> drive (and excess power will be produced when the audio output is increased).
>> 
>> For those who are concerned about the ALC meter indication, the onset of ALC 
>> is at the 5th bar on the meter - the 4th bar is the "NO ALC" point for the 
>> K3 (KX3, KX2 and K3S).
>> 
>> For the K2, increase the audio until you have ALC indicated, and then back 
>

[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2017-01-07 Thread kev...@coho.net

Good Evening,

After a cold week the incoming storms are bringing warm weather.  
Lots of snow, but it is 15 degrees warmer so I don't mind the slow 
driving.  The sun has been sending solar wind our way even though it has 
been spotless for a few days.  Charting the MUF over the last week has 
shone me why contacts are so tough on the higher bands (anything above 
80 meters).


   I started using the Elecraft reflector in early 2001.  The K2 had 
been around for a while and the K1 was rather new.  The reflector was 
fun and helpful.  As Elecraft has grown and added more products it has 
gathered many new customers.  While I do miss those early days I am very 
glad how Elecraft has grown: steadily and wisely.  I also miss my 
Hodaka, my Post Versalog II sliderule, and 1960's prices.


Please join us tomorrow on:

   14050 kHz at 2300z Sunday (3 PM PST Sunday)
 7045 kHz at 0200z Monday (6 PM PST Sunday)

73,
Kevin. KD5ONS

-

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread Bill Johnson
Don, nice understatement when it comes to your contribution.  You are one of
the kings of support and do so much for free, oftentimes without reward. I
would hope that users would know that... thus my post.  
The amount of donated time to make the Elecraft products the best is
amazing.  I cannot even imagine how much time I have donated for the K2,
KX1, KX3, KAT500 and other products offered by Elecraft.  This is one of the
main reasons for their success; we are dedicated to the hobby and asking
nothing in return.  Wayne and Eric and their team know this.  Elecraft rules
when it comes to product, quality and performance. There are users new to
the product line that don't understand the  lineage and find faults base on
their limited knowledge an ability to compare products.  Wayne and Eric know
this and use the feedback for product improvement.  And this is that!  You
and others are such a benefit to the product but so much more to the hobby.
God bless you and the rest!
(On that note, working on getting into KX2 portable on all sorts of
antennas!!!  KX3 sits in the living room and using CW for all modes not to
disturb the wife.  Just need a high powered amp to get back onto low bands
in the pathetic sun cycle.)  I love this hobby, but need more FT to really
feel the love.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, January 7, 2017 5:16 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

Jim and all,

Yes, I remember those "good old days" when the only Elecraft support person
was Gary (I was one of the K2 Field Testers).  Unfortunately as the Elecraft
product line grew, the number of support persons has grown too - it now
numbers 4 - David, Craig, Howard and Gary, and the Monday morning support
email load is large.
Problems that the support staff cannot handle are still passed along to the
engineers, but that may be in the background while the support people handle
the major communications back to the customer.

Yes, I am close to the Elecraft team (particularly the support and sales
folks), and do most of the repairs on the K2 and other "thru-hole" kits in
the Elecraft line.  So I am quite familiar with that part of their operation
as well as their problems.  Personal phone numbers are no longer given out
(protections for the employees except in extreme cases), but you will still
receive personalized customer support service via email or they will often
phone customers with problems.

I do serve as support for those "Thru-hole" products when Gary is not
available, and I can say for myself that (from me) you will receive extended
personal support when required - yes even help with a lifted solder pad.
I am in North Carolina, and am in a different time zone than Elecraft, but
that makes little difference,  we still communicate with each other and the
customers when the need arises.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/7/2017 5:36 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:
> Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you 
> would call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in 
> the case of the DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real 
> friendship with a guy out west, who worked from his home. Eventually 
> we shared phone numbers. Or you would turn to the back of the K2 
> manual and there find the complete schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit 
> Details"?  Yeah, I know, those were the days of thru-hole kits, solder 
> smoke, and, "gee I wish I had not done that", when you lifted a trace 
> and had to break out the blue wire to make things right again. Things 
> were better thenthose really were the good old days...things were 
> more personal then.
>
> Jim, W4ATK
>
> Licensed: General Class Sept 1953
>
> K2, K-Line
>
> __
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> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email 
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> donw...@embarqmail.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread Bill Johnson
I was an FT so not an issue to remember. Unit was #35.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Rogers
Sent: Saturday, January 7, 2017 4:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you would
call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in the case of
the DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real friendship with a guy
out west, who worked from his home. Eventually we shared phone numbers. Or
you would turn to the back of the K2 manual and there find the complete
schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit Details"?  Yeah, I know, those were the
days of thru-hole kits, solder smoke, and, "gee I wish I had not done that",
when you lifted a trace and had to break out the blue wire to make things
right again. Things were better thenthose really were the good old
days...things were more personal then.

Jim, W4ATK

Licensed: General Class Sept 1953

K2, K-Line

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[Elecraft] KXAT100 antenna tuner for KXPA100

2017-01-07 Thread Edward R Cole

Lately been thinking of adding the auto-antenna tuner to my KXPA100.

This is mostly for running mobile with my KX3 than at the home shack 
that has a fine manual tuner (oldie but goodie).  A silly reason is I 
will need an antenna switch for separate 6m and HF mobile 
antennas.  But the tuner provides that plus remote control of the 
tuner/amp from the KX3 control panel.  This becomes more than handy 
as finding a safe spot to pull off the road for manually changing 
bands and antennas is a safety issue. The KXPA100 will be in a 
compartment under the backseat which not simple to reach for power-on 
and swapping coax lines.


New the KXAT100 is $379.95 plus shipping.

I wonder if the tuner is ever available for sale as used by 
itself?  My guess it would likely only be included when sold with a 
KXPA100.  I will not make a purchase decision until this spring when 
we will be getting a 5th-wheel travel trailer.  I already have the 
KXPA100 and the KXPACBL kit.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3s meter

2017-01-07 Thread George Kidder

Hi all,

I initially started using data modes by the "set the power to maximum 
..." method, and experienced the same problems that others have seen, 
although with care the transmissions were proper.  I like to run digital 
at 50 W max, to lessen the strain on the equipment.  The advantage of 
this method was that the power on the band in use was not reduced, so 
that when going back to SW or SSB, the full power was still set.  The 
"K3 recommended " method does a fine job, but requires reducing the 
power to 50 W.  Then, when one returns to CW or SSB, you are still at 
50W, since power is not saved "per mode".


Would a software change which saves power "per mode" as well as "per 
band" be possible?  If so, I respectfully request it.


George, W3HBM


On 1/7/2017 5:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

All,

Guy is quite correct.  The K3 controls power very well, so if you have 
set the power knob to some particular power, that will be very close 
to the power you actually get.  There is normally no need to monitor 
it - as long as other conditions are followed.


The most common error for soundcard data modes is for hams who choose 
to follow the common internet advice to "set the power to maximum and 
control the power with the audio drive" - that does not work well with 
the K3, K3S, KX2 or KX3 (or the K2 for that matter).  Drive the 
Elecraft ALC meter as indicated in the manual - 5 to 7 bars for SSB 
and 4 bars solid with the 5th bar flickering for soundcard data modes.


Elecraft radios do not control power in the same way as other 
transceivers, so follow the instructions given for your Elecraft 
transceiver and first set the audio drive properly and control the 
power output with the power knob.  Failure to do that will result in 
what I call "power hunting" where the power output will vary 
significantly.


If I must elaborate on the "why" of all this, Elecraft radios control 
the power output in a closed loop - other amateur transceivers use an 
open loop "drive" control, commercial transceivers may use a closed 
loop system similar to Elecraft. The power output is measured and the 
MCU compares that output with the power requested by the power knob.  
If the actual power is less than requested, the drive will be 
increased to make the output equal to that requested.  So if the audio 
drive is not sufficient, yes power will be lower than the requested 
value and the transceiver will go to full possible drive (and excess 
power will be produced when the audio output is increased).


For those who are concerned about the ALC meter indication, the onset 
of ALC is at the 5th bar on the meter - the 4th bar is the "NO ALC" 
point for the K3 (KX3, KX2 and K3S).


For the K2, increase the audio until you have ALC indicated, and then 
back off the audio just enough that no bars are displayed.


The real key is to set the audio as instructed in the manual, and then 
control the power with the power knob.  That goes for voice modes as 
well as soundcard data modes.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 1/7/2017 1:51 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

Hi Richard,

The issue with your request is that there is only **one** line of 
display

"dots" on the display. The single line of dots is interpreted with the
upper graticule in RX, and with the two lower graticules on TX.

For what you want, there would need to be two rows of dots driven
independently. Or there would need to be a front panel button to 
switch the

meaning of the single row of dots. Ah, but we already have the button.

Also, the change would require *both* firmware *and* changing out the
display to create the **two** lines of dots on the display. Note that 
the

graticules do not change. The display is not driven pixels like a
smartphone display. Therefore it could not just be a new CONFIG: 
option in
firmware. The request would almost certainly need to be implemented 
with a

new transceiver.

As it is, on voice if CMP and ALC is properly set, on a K3/K3S the power
out is very predictable for a given PWR setting, more so for a K3/K3S 
than

most. In any event, TX SSB with an amp, various stand-alone power meters
deal more substantially with power out aspects.

73, Guy K2AV

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread Cameron Francey
I must have stepped back into the dark ages!  I just sold all my modern (big 
three makes) stuff and my shack now consists only of a K2/100 and a KAT100 and 
a K1 for when I feel like getting out of the shack.

I tried all sorts of modern high end feature rich rigs with DSP/NR and all 
sorts of other variants and I felt it was just distorting what I was listening 
to. Please don't take that last comment as an excuse to drag out the pros and 
cons of each... I totally get that to some ears DSP is great and to others its 
not something enjoyable to listen to.


Of the few little issues I've had with my K1 and K2 for things I wasn't able 
for figure out myself a quick email to support always returned a friendly reply 
with the help I needed, they genuinely do want to get you up and running when 
you have any issues.  I think that's really good after sales service!


On top of this, I like reading the emails on this group, mostly since they are 
K3 and computer related things they are not of great interest to me, but the 
ones that have a technical content (or K1/K2 realted) I find really interesting 
and I've either been reminded of something, or as in a lot of cases I've 
expanded my knowledge by reading the posts here.  What I really like is that so 
many people chime into a subject and you get a broad range of solutions or 
views.  Don't fall for the first answer that google happens to throw your way!

Anyway, just felt like sharing my recent thoughts and experiences on the 
subject.

73, Cameron AF7DK



From: Elecraft  on behalf of lmarion 

Sent: Saturday, January 7, 2017 4:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

Maybe its just about the most fun I had as a QRP OP.
Bought a  K2 that did not exist yet.
Anxiously waited months for the bags of parts to build
what I was sure was going to be the ultimate QRP kit of all time.
You worked with Wayne directly if you had a problem.
Now that I own the complete K-line and every radio Elecraft
has made, and most of the board kits,
the K2 experience was the most fun of my QRP days.
Thanks Elecraft for that.

Leroy,  AB7CE ,K2  SN 40


-Original Message-
From: Jim Rogers
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 3:36 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you
would call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in the
case of the DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real friendship
with a guy out west, who worked from his home. Eventually we shared
phone numbers. Or you would turn to the back of the K2 manual and there
find the complete schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit Details"?  Yeah, I
know, those were the days of thru-hole kits, solder smoke, and, "gee I
wish I had not done that", when you lifted a trace and had to break out
the blue wire to make things right again. Things were better
thenthose really were the good old days...things were more personal
then.

Jim, W4ATK

Licensed: General Class Sept 1953

K2, K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread lmarion
Maybe its just about the most fun I had as a QRP OP.  
Bought a  K2 that did not exist yet. 
Anxiously waited months for the bags of parts to build 
what I was sure was going to be the ultimate QRP kit of all time.

You worked with Wayne directly if you had a problem.
Now that I own the complete K-line and every radio Elecraft
has made, and most of the board kits,
the K2 experience was the most fun of my QRP days.
Thanks Elecraft for that.

Leroy,  AB7CE ,K2  SN 40


-Original Message- 
From: Jim Rogers 
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 3:36 PM 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support 

Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you 
would call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in the 
case of the DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real friendship 
with a guy out west, who worked from his home. Eventually we shared 
phone numbers. Or you would turn to the back of the K2 manual and there 
find the complete schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit Details"?  Yeah, I 
know, those were the days of thru-hole kits, solder smoke, and, "gee I 
wish I had not done that", when you lifted a trace and had to break out 
the blue wire to make things right again. Things were better 
thenthose really were the good old days...things were more personal 
then.


Jim, W4ATK

Licensed: General Class Sept 1953

K2, K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread n1ix
The one time I needed support on my K3 I was called back within an hour.
The problem was fixed within minutes.

Dave N1IX

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Rogers
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 5:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you would
call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in the case of
the DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real friendship with a guy
out west, who worked from his home. Eventually we shared phone numbers. Or
you would turn to the back of the K2 manual and there find the complete
schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit Details"?  Yeah, I know, those were the
days of thru-hole kits, solder smoke, and, "gee I wish I had not done that",
when you lifted a trace and had to break out the blue wire to make things
right again. Things were better thenthose really were the good old
days...things were more personal then.

Jim, W4ATK

Licensed: General Class Sept 1953

K2, K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
Yes, the engineers still lurk on the list.  I know because they correct 
me when I post "nonsense" - Jack is one of them.  Yes, we are good 
friends who respect each others expertise.


Don W3FPR

On 1/7/2017 6:37 PM, Jack Brindle wrote:

Have things really changed?

I think you will find most, if not all, of us lurk on the list. Some are more 
active than others.

- Jack Brindle, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering
(i.e. Product developer)


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread Jack Brindle
Have things really changed?

I think you will find most, if not all, of us lurk on the list. Some are more 
active than others.

- Jack Brindle, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering
(i.e. Product developer)

> On Jan 7, 2017, at 2:36 PM, Jim Rogers  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you would 
> call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in the case of the 
> DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real friendship with a guy out 
> west, who worked from his home. Eventually we shared phone numbers. Or you 
> would turn to the back of the K2 manual and there find the complete 
> schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit Details"?  Yeah, I know, those were the 
> days of thru-hole kits, solder smoke, and, "gee I wish I had not done that", 
> when you lifted a trace and had to break out the blue wire to make things 
> right again. Things were better thenthose really were the good old 
> days...things were more personal then.
> 
> Jim, W4ATK
> 
> Licensed: General Class Sept 1953
> 
> K2, K-Line
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim and all,

Yes, I remember those "good old days" when the only Elecraft support 
person was Gary (I was one of the K2 Field Testers).  Unfortunately as 
the Elecraft product line grew, the number of support persons has grown 
too - it now numbers 4 - David, Craig, Howard and Gary, and the Monday 
morning support email load is large.
Problems that the support staff cannot handle are still passed along to 
the engineers, but that may be in the background while the support 
people handle the major communications back to the customer.


Yes, I am close to the Elecraft team (particularly the support and sales 
folks), and do most of the repairs on the K2 and other "thru-hole" kits 
in the Elecraft line.  So I am quite familiar with that part of their 
operation as well as their problems.  Personal phone numbers are no 
longer given out (protections for the employees except in extreme 
cases), but you will still receive personalized customer support service 
via email or they will often phone customers with problems.


I do serve as support for those "Thru-hole" products when Gary is not 
available, and I can say for myself that (from me) you will receive 
extended personal support when required - yes even help with a lifted 
solder pad.
I am in North Carolina, and am in a different time zone than Elecraft, 
but that makes little difference,  we still communicate with each other 
and the customers when the need arises.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/7/2017 5:36 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:

Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you
would call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in the
case of the DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real friendship
with a guy out west, who worked from his home. Eventually we shared
phone numbers. Or you would turn to the back of the K2 manual and there
find the complete schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit Details"?  Yeah, I
know, those were the days of thru-hole kits, solder smoke, and, "gee I
wish I had not done that", when you lifted a trace and had to break out
the blue wire to make things right again. Things were better
thenthose really were the good old days...things were more personal
then.

Jim, W4ATK

Licensed: General Class Sept 1953

K2, K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp

2017-01-07 Thread David Woolley
The light from white "LEDs" is a mixture of a fairly narrow, blue, peak, 
direct from the LED, and a broad, low, yellow one from the phosphor. 
The fact that they don't excite the phosphor with UV is one of their 
advantages, when compared with CFLs (where the actual physics is also 
pretty much constant current driven).


More expensive ones, will have a red LED as well to give better 
rendition of reds.


A lot of the visible light IS from the LED.

On 07/01/17 12:55, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

The actual light is emitted NOT by the LED itself, but a phosphor coating
inside the LED which is excited by the LED's output.   Dirt-cheap hand


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread Scott Manthe
I kind prefer things the way they are now: Elecraft as a thriving, 
innovative company that offers state of the art, high performance 
equipment that'll be around for a while. The past is gone, so there's no 
use pining for it.


73,
Scott N9AA

On 1/7/17 5:36 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:
Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you 
would call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in 
the case of the DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real 
friendship with a guy out west, who worked from his home. Eventually 
we shared phone numbers. Or you would turn to the back of the K2 
manual and there find the complete schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit 
Details"?  Yeah, I know, those were the days of thru-hole kits, solder 
smoke, and, "gee I wish I had not done that", when you lifted a trace 
and had to break out the blue wire to make things right again. Things 
were better thenthose really were the good old days...things were 
more personal then.


Jim, W4ATK

Licensed: General Class Sept 1953

K2, K-Line


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread kev...@coho.net

Sigh

Kevin.  KD5ONS


On 1/7/2017 2:36 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:
Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you 
would call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in 
the case of the DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real 
friendship with a guy out west, who worked from his home. Eventually 
we shared phone numbers. Or you would turn to the back of the K2 
manual and there find the complete schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit 
Details"?  Yeah, I know, those were the days of thru-hole kits, solder 
smoke, and, "gee I wish I had not done that", when you lifted a trace 
and had to break out the blue wire to make things right again. Things 
were better thenthose really were the good old days...things were 
more personal then.


Jim, W4ATK

Licensed: General Class Sept 1953

K2, K-Line

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[Elecraft] Elecraft Support

2017-01-07 Thread Jim Rogers
Does anyone remember the good old days, back when the K2 was king, you 
would call support and would be routed to an engineer or perhaps in the 
case of the DSP2,  Lyle himself? I remember developing a real friendship 
with a guy out west, who worked from his home. Eventually we shared 
phone numbers. Or you would turn to the back of the K2 manual and there 
find the complete schematics and chapter 9, "Circuit Details"?  Yeah, I 
know, those were the days of thru-hole kits, solder smoke, and, "gee I 
wish I had not done that", when you lifted a trace and had to break out 
the blue wire to make things right again. Things were better 
thenthose really were the good old days...things were more personal 
then.


Jim, W4ATK

Licensed: General Class Sept 1953

K2, K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s meter

2017-01-07 Thread Don Wilhelm

All,

Guy is quite correct.  The K3 controls power very well, so if you have 
set the power knob to some particular power, that will be very close to 
the power you actually get.  There is normally no need to monitor it - 
as long as other conditions are followed.


The most common error for soundcard data modes is for hams who choose to 
follow the common internet advice to "set the power to maximum and 
control the power with the audio drive" - that does not work well with 
the K3, K3S, KX2 or KX3 (or the K2 for that matter).  Drive the Elecraft 
ALC meter as indicated in the manual - 5 to 7 bars for SSB and 4 bars 
solid with the 5th bar flickering for soundcard data modes.


Elecraft radios do not control power in the same way as other 
transceivers, so follow the instructions given for your Elecraft 
transceiver and first set the audio drive properly and control the power 
output with the power knob.  Failure to do that will result in what I 
call "power hunting" where the power output will vary significantly.


If I must elaborate on the "why" of all this, Elecraft radios control 
the power output in a closed loop - other amateur transceivers use an 
open loop "drive" control, commercial transceivers may use a closed loop 
system similar to Elecraft.  The power output is measured and the MCU 
compares that output with the power requested by the power knob.  If the 
actual power is less than requested, the drive will be increased to make 
the output equal to that requested.  So if the audio drive is not 
sufficient, yes power will be lower than the requested value and the 
transceiver will go to full possible drive (and excess power will be 
produced when the audio output is increased).


For those who are concerned about the ALC meter indication, the onset of 
ALC is at the 5th bar on the meter - the 4th bar is the "NO ALC" point 
for the K3 (KX3, KX2 and K3S).


For the K2, increase the audio until you have ALC indicated, and then 
back off the audio just enough that no bars are displayed.


The real key is to set the audio as instructed in the manual, and then 
control the power with the power knob.  That goes for voice modes as 
well as soundcard data modes.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 1/7/2017 1:51 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

Hi Richard,

The issue with your request is that there is only **one** line of display
"dots" on the display. The single line of dots is interpreted with the
upper graticule in RX, and with the two lower graticules on TX.

For what you want, there would need to be two rows of dots driven
independently. Or there would need to be a front panel button to switch the
meaning of the single row of dots. Ah, but we already have the button.

Also, the change would require *both* firmware *and* changing out the
display to create the **two** lines of dots on the display. Note that the
graticules do not change. The display is not driven pixels like a
smartphone display. Therefore it could not just be a new CONFIG: option in
firmware. The request would almost certainly need to be implemented with a
new transceiver.

As it is, on voice if CMP and ALC is properly set, on a K3/K3S the power
out is very predictable for a given PWR setting, more so for a K3/K3S than
most. In any event, TX SSB with an amp, various stand-alone power meters
deal more substantially with power out aspects.

73, Guy K2AV

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s meter

2017-01-07 Thread Nr4c
You get COMP/ALC or SWR/RF POWER. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jan 7, 2017, at 10:52 AM, RichardG3ZIY  wrote:
> 
> It occurred to me that on transmit the S meter is somewhat redundant. A
> suggestion for the next firmware update is that the S meter change to
> power output when on transmit.
> 
> I am aware that there is a setting to choose RF power or CMP/ALC, but I
> would like to be able to monitor CMP and ALC and RF power when in
> transmit mode, which I don't think is currently possible... unless I've
> missed some setting somewhere on the rig.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Richard, G3ZIY.
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Re: [Elecraft] kx3 receiver verses k3s receiver

2017-01-07 Thread Igor Sokolov

Vincent,
I have both radios and often use them at the same time connected to Expert 
1.3K-FA amp that supports basic SO2R operation.
KX3 is a nice travel radio. Although it can be used for contesting when one 
operates far away from highly ham radio populated areas (EU, USA etc) still 
K3 is a lot better for contesting, especially when there are several strong 
nearby stations around. Besides K3 with the second receiver gives you great 
flexibility when used either for diversity reception of when picking signals 
from 2 directions using 2 antennas. Bottom line is you take both if you can 
or choose the one that you can afford. You will not regret in any case.


73, Igor UA9CDC
- Исходное сообщение - 
От: "Vincent Diak" 

Кому: 
Отправлено: 8 января 2017 г. 1:04
Тема: [Elecraft] kx3 receiver verses k3s receiver



QST- Hello,
Can Anyone tell me if they have compared the KX3 Receiver to the K3s 
receiver? Not with equipment test, but just buy listening to both 
receivers and judging which is better for them. Please do not refer to 
spec’s just plain ear listening . I know we all hear differently, but was 
wondering how much better the K3s would be for more money.

Vincent /WB2PDW 73
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[Elecraft] kx3 receiver versus K3s receiver

2017-01-07 Thread Erik Basilier
Both the kx3 and the K3 are excellent. The KX3 may sound slightly more
natural, but overall I prefer the K3 because of better ergonomics and some
aspects of performance. Recently I got interested in SO2R and added a
KXPA100 to my KX3 for use as the second radio. In side by side comparison it
became clear that the KX3 is much more vulnerable to interference than is
the K3. With my antennas close together, the KX3 was marginally useable
receiving on 40 while the K3 transmitted on higher bands, but totally
unuseable with the K3 on 40 and the KX3 on a higher band. There are a lot of
variables involved, but I got the same result with a portable setup at a
different location. Most people will never run two rigs set up close
together with antennas close together, but I plan to buy another K3 and sell
the KXPA100. The KX3 is still wonderful for light weight portable operation.

 

73,

Erik K7TV

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Re: [Elecraft] kx3 receiver verses k3s receiver

2017-01-07 Thread lmarion
I have every radio elecraft has made.  The KX3 is excellent, But the K3s 
with diversity receive is outstanding, worth every penny.


Leroy AB7CE


-Original Message- 
From: Vincent Diak

Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 1:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] kx3 receiver verses k3s receiver

QST- Hello,
Can Anyone tell me if they have compared the KX3 Receiver to the K3s 
receiver? Not with equipment test, but just buy listening to both receivers 
and judging which is better for them. Please do not refer to spec’s just 
plain ear listening . I know we all hear differently, but was wondering how 
much better the K3s would be for more money.

Vincent /WB2PDW 73
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Re: [Elecraft] kx3 receiver verses k3s receiver

2017-01-07 Thread sancho
Vincent, help us here. Listening through what, built-in speaker, external 
speakers, headset?

Jack KD4IZ
Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 7, 2017, at 15:04, Vincent Diak  wrote:
> 
> QST- Hello,
> Can Anyone tell me if they have compared the KX3 Receiver to the K3s 
> receiver? Not with equipment test, but just buy listening to both receivers 
> and judging which is better for them. Please do not refer to spec’s just 
> plain ear listening . I know we all hear differently, but was wondering how 
> much better the K3s would be for more money.
> Vincent /WB2PDW 73
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[Elecraft] kx3 receiver verses k3s receiver

2017-01-07 Thread Vincent Diak
QST- Hello,
Can Anyone tell me if they have compared the KX3 Receiver to the K3s receiver? 
Not with equipment test, but just buy listening to both receivers and judging 
which is better for them. Please do not refer to spec’s just plain ear 
listening . I know we all hear differently, but was wondering how much better 
the K3s would be for more money.
Vincent /WB2PDW 73
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Re: [Elecraft] For sale: Yamaha

2017-01-07 Thread Robert Dorchuck

The headset has been spoken for.
Thanks to all that responed.
Bob  W6VY

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Switch Tones

2017-01-07 Thread David Anderson via Elecraft
I guess it should, I have not ever used SW TONE ON so had not noticed. As a 
workaround could program a macro key to switch it off and switch to data mode I 
suppose and then do the reverse when you exit data mode.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 7 Jan 2017, at 14:30, Thorpe, Jeffrey  wrote:
> 
> I've noticed that with switch tones set on (SW TONE) that the KX3 will 
> transmit the tone out the speaker port when in data mode. Shouldn't this be 
> disabled in data mode? It does it whether transmitting or receiving, and 
> messes things up.
> 
> Jeff - kg7hdz
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s meter

2017-01-07 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Hi Richard,

The issue with your request is that there is only **one** line of display
"dots" on the display. The single line of dots is interpreted with the
upper graticule in RX, and with the two lower graticules on TX.

For what you want, there would need to be two rows of dots driven
independently. Or there would need to be a front panel button to switch the
meaning of the single row of dots. Ah, but we already have the button.

Also, the change would require *both* firmware *and* changing out the
display to create the **two** lines of dots on the display. Note that the
graticules do not change. The display is not driven pixels like a
smartphone display. Therefore it could not just be a new CONFIG: option in
firmware. The request would almost certainly need to be implemented with a
new transceiver.

As it is, on voice if CMP and ALC is properly set, on a K3/K3S the power
out is very predictable for a given PWR setting, more so for a K3/K3S than
most. In any event, TX SSB with an amp, various stand-alone power meters
deal more substantially with power out aspects.

73, Guy K2AV

On Sat, Jan 7, 2017 at 10:52 AM, RichardG3ZIY 
wrote:

> It occurred to me that on transmit the S meter is somewhat redundant. A
> suggestion for the next firmware update is that the S meter change to
> power output when on transmit.
>
> I am aware that there is a setting to choose RF power or CMP/ALC, but I
> would like to be able to monitor CMP and ALC and RF power when in
> transmit mode, which I don't think is currently possible... unless I've
> missed some setting somewhere on the rig.
>
> 73,
>
> Richard, G3ZIY.
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Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position recommendation needed

2017-01-07 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Everyone is quite right about the adjustable power supply suggestion. I was
fixated on the power supply issue without considering the nature of the
load. 

I like Walt's suggestion of simply switching in more LEDs as needed. A
rotary switch adding more LEDs with each position would make adjusting the
light level easy with a simple turn of the knob. 

It may be "brute force" as Walt says, but sometimes the simplest is also the
most elegant and efficient solution. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Walter
Underwood
Sent: Saturday, January 7, 2017 8:08 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
recommendation needed

A brute force solution would be to get four LED lighting strips that run off
12V and use four switches. Turn on as much light as you want.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

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[Elecraft] For sale: Yamaha

2017-01-07 Thread Robert Dorchuck
I have a Yamaha CM500 headset for sale if anyone is interested.  Price 
is $35 shipped. Please contact me off list.

Thanks
Bob W6VY  w6vy...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s meter

2017-01-07 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Richard, the K3 and K3S normally indicate received signal strength in
receive mode, and show the SWR and Power Output in transmit. You can switch
between that an Compression/ALC display by holding the METER switch. Is it
possible you accidentally switched from the normal SWR/Power Output display
to Compression/ALC? 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
RichardG3ZIY
Sent: Saturday, January 7, 2017 7:52 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3s meter

It occurred to me that on transmit the S meter is somewhat redundant. A
suggestion for the next firmware update is that the S meter change to power
output when on transmit.

I am aware that there is a setting to choose RF power or CMP/ALC, but I
would like to be able to monitor CMP and ALC and RF power when in transmit
mode, which I don't think is currently possible... unless I've missed some
setting somewhere on the rig.

73,

Richard, G3ZIY.
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[Elecraft] K2 power too high (won't reduce properly to 0.1W)

2017-01-07 Thread MW0RSS
I have recently become aware that my K2 (constructed by someone else) will
not reduce power to less than about 1W. I am also unable to reduce the
transverter output of the K60XV to a suitable level.

This means two things - firstly, I cannot easily do QRPp ops and secondly, I
do not have proper control of the low level drive to my recently purchased
KX50. I have set the low level output using the menu system (as suggested in
the manual) but it still drives the transverter to more than the specified
20W. The KX50 is being driven from the K60VX. 

The K2 indicates 0.1W when the power control is fully counter-clockwise but
it still puts out around 1W to the high level BNC output (the normal antenna
socket).

Can anyone please help? Does this sound like an alignment issue?

Many thanks, Pete 
MW0RSS



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Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position recommendation needed

2017-01-07 Thread Walter Underwood
A brute force solution would be to get four LED lighting strips that run off 
12V and
use four switches. Turn on as much light as you want.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Jan 7, 2017, at 6:32 AM, Chip Stratton  wrote:
> 
> What John says is true. Over time the forward voltage drop of an LED will
> decrease somewhat as it ages. It isn't great, and it isn't fast, though it
> happens more quickly initially.
> 
> The forward voltage drop decreases more dramatically in the short term with
> temperature - the higher the die temperature, the lower the forward voltage
> drop. This can result in thermal runaway and destruction of the LED when
> using a constant voltage supply and not a constant current supply. This can
> be mitigated with a current limiting resistor in series, but it does
> decrease overall efficiency of the system.
> 
> Chip
> AE5KA
> 
> On Sat, Jan 7, 2017 at 8:45 AM, John Pitz  wrote:
> 
>> Actually there is a much simpler way to do this using linear 3 pin
>> regulators.  Take a fictional regulator that has a fixed output voltage
>> of 1V.  Assuming you want 15mA through your LEDs, make sure the output
>> current of the voltage regulator is 15mA by placing a 67 Ohm resistor
>> from the output pin to ground.  The current out the VOUT of a 3 pin
>> regulator will be equal to the current at the VIN of the regulator.
>> Then put your string of LEDs from the "unregulated" voltage in and the
>> Vin pin of your regulator.  You will have to add up the expected voltage
>> drops of the LEDs. and subtract that value from the unregulated Voltage
>> supply.  then subtract the voltage regulators output voltage, in this
>> case 1V from whats left.  Now, make sure that the remaining voltage is
>> at least a little bit higher than the dropout voltage of the regulator.
>> I have done this countless times.  It should be pretty simple to use a
>> POT and a resistor to dim the LEDs within a preset range, or if your
>> regulator has a shutdown pin you could PWM it from your favorite
>> microcontroller.
>> 
>> You should avoid putting LEDs in series when using a simple dropping
>> resistor.  That scheme will seem to work well for a little while then
>> you may find your LEDs failing.  In my experience this doesn't work long
>> term and in this scheme the LEDs fail one by one shorted.  I don't think
>> the voltage drop on each LED is all that constant over time and
>> temperature.
>> 
>> 73
>> KD8CIV
>> 
>> On Sat, 2017-01-07 at 02:14 -0800, Dave Fifield wrote:
>> 
>>> An LED is basically a fancy diode, so a linear voltage regulator to
>> control
>>> its brightness will not work well.
>>> 
>>> Starting from around 2V output (say) the LED/s will be OFF. As you
>> increase
>>> the regulator's output voltage, somewhere around 2.5V (depends on the
>> exact
>>> type of LED you're using), the LED will begin to conduct forward current
>> and
>>> start to emit light. At this point, increasing the regulator's output
>>> voltage just a tiny bit will increase the brightness of the LED a lot
>> (it's
>>> basically an exponential curve). So at just a couple hundred mV above the
>>> voltage where the LED began to emit light, you will reach full
>> brightness.
>>> Any further increase in the drive voltage will merely result in the
>> series
>>> current-limiting resistor dissipating more heat.
>>> 
>>> What is really needed here is a linearly-variable constant-current
>> generator
>>> circuit. This is a fairly simple circuit to design, usually consisting
>> of a
>>> voltage reference, a comparator, and a drive transistor, with some
>> feedback
>>> from a current sensing resistor. It will need to be designed so that it
>> can
>>> generate enough voltage to overcome the LED's forward voltage (Vf), and
>> with
>>> an output current that's variable from 0mA to around 20mA (or whatever
>> the
>>> LED's maximum forward current (If max) is specified at).
>>> 
>>> Hope this helps.
>>> 
>>> Cheers es 73,
>>> Dave
>>> AD6A
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>> Ron
>>> D'Eau Claire
>>> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2017 8:17 PM
>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
>>> recommendation needed
>>> 
>>> A linear voltage regulator is very quiet. That's just a bipolar
>> transistor
>>> passing the current with adjustable base voltage. I use them on my HB
>> power
>>> supplies for the same reason. No square switching, no RFI.
>>> 
>>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>> Bill
>>> Frantz
>>> Sent: Friday, January 6, 2017 6:07 PM
>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
>>> recommendation needed
>>> 
>>> To avoid color shifts with dimming, most LED dimmers use Pulse Width
>>> Modulation (PWM). PWM has the pote

[Elecraft] K3s meter

2017-01-07 Thread RichardG3ZIY
It occurred to me that on transmit the S meter is somewhat redundant. A
suggestion for the next firmware update is that the S meter change to
power output when on transmit.

I am aware that there is a setting to choose RF power or CMP/ALC, but I
would like to be able to monitor CMP and ALC and RF power when in
transmit mode, which I don't think is currently possible... unless I've
missed some setting somewhere on the rig.

73,

Richard, G3ZIY.
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Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position recommendation needed

2017-01-07 Thread Chip Stratton
What John says is true. Over time the forward voltage drop of an LED will
decrease somewhat as it ages. It isn't great, and it isn't fast, though it
happens more quickly initially.

The forward voltage drop decreases more dramatically in the short term with
temperature - the higher the die temperature, the lower the forward voltage
drop. This can result in thermal runaway and destruction of the LED when
using a constant voltage supply and not a constant current supply. This can
be mitigated with a current limiting resistor in series, but it does
decrease overall efficiency of the system.

Chip
AE5KA

On Sat, Jan 7, 2017 at 8:45 AM, John Pitz  wrote:

> Actually there is a much simpler way to do this using linear 3 pin
> regulators.  Take a fictional regulator that has a fixed output voltage
> of 1V.  Assuming you want 15mA through your LEDs, make sure the output
> current of the voltage regulator is 15mA by placing a 67 Ohm resistor
> from the output pin to ground.  The current out the VOUT of a 3 pin
> regulator will be equal to the current at the VIN of the regulator.
> Then put your string of LEDs from the "unregulated" voltage in and the
> Vin pin of your regulator.  You will have to add up the expected voltage
> drops of the LEDs. and subtract that value from the unregulated Voltage
> supply.  then subtract the voltage regulators output voltage, in this
> case 1V from whats left.  Now, make sure that the remaining voltage is
> at least a little bit higher than the dropout voltage of the regulator.
> I have done this countless times.  It should be pretty simple to use a
> POT and a resistor to dim the LEDs within a preset range, or if your
> regulator has a shutdown pin you could PWM it from your favorite
> microcontroller.
>
> You should avoid putting LEDs in series when using a simple dropping
> resistor.  That scheme will seem to work well for a little while then
> you may find your LEDs failing.  In my experience this doesn't work long
> term and in this scheme the LEDs fail one by one shorted.  I don't think
> the voltage drop on each LED is all that constant over time and
> temperature.
>
> 73
> KD8CIV
>
> On Sat, 2017-01-07 at 02:14 -0800, Dave Fifield wrote:
>
> > An LED is basically a fancy diode, so a linear voltage regulator to
> control
> > its brightness will not work well.
> >
> > Starting from around 2V output (say) the LED/s will be OFF. As you
> increase
> > the regulator's output voltage, somewhere around 2.5V (depends on the
> exact
> > type of LED you're using), the LED will begin to conduct forward current
> and
> > start to emit light. At this point, increasing the regulator's output
> > voltage just a tiny bit will increase the brightness of the LED a lot
> (it's
> > basically an exponential curve). So at just a couple hundred mV above the
> > voltage where the LED began to emit light, you will reach full
> brightness.
> > Any further increase in the drive voltage will merely result in the
> series
> > current-limiting resistor dissipating more heat.
> >
> > What is really needed here is a linearly-variable constant-current
> generator
> > circuit. This is a fairly simple circuit to design, usually consisting
> of a
> > voltage reference, a comparator, and a drive transistor, with some
> feedback
> > from a current sensing resistor. It will need to be designed so that it
> can
> > generate enough voltage to overcome the LED's forward voltage (Vf), and
> with
> > an output current that's variable from 0mA to around 20mA (or whatever
> the
> > LED's maximum forward current (If max) is specified at).
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Cheers es 73,
> > Dave
> > AD6A
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Ron
> > D'Eau Claire
> > Sent: Friday, January 06, 2017 8:17 PM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
> > recommendation needed
> >
> > A linear voltage regulator is very quiet. That's just a bipolar
> transistor
> > passing the current with adjustable base voltage. I use them on my HB
> power
> > supplies for the same reason. No square switching, no RFI.
> >
> > 73, Ron AC7AC
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Bill
> > Frantz
> > Sent: Friday, January 6, 2017 6:07 PM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
> > recommendation needed
> >
> > To avoid color shifts with dimming, most LED dimmers use Pulse Width
> > Modulation (PWM). PWM has the potential to generate RFI, so be careful.
> The
> > LEDs themselves should be very quiet. Using LEDs with resistors to limit
> the
> > current should also be quiet. A system that switches LEDs for brightness
> > control would be a safe solution, but I don't know of any commercial
> systems
> > which do this.
> >
> > On the other hand, I have not noticed a problem with 

[Elecraft] KX3 Switch Tones

2017-01-07 Thread Thorpe, Jeffrey
I've noticed that with switch tones set on (SW TONE) that the KX3 will transmit 
the tone out the speaker port when in data mode. Shouldn't this be disabled in 
data mode? It does it whether transmitting or receiving, and messes things up.

Jeff - kg7hdz
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Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position recommendation needed

2017-01-07 Thread John Pitz
Actually there is a much simpler way to do this using linear 3 pin
regulators.  Take a fictional regulator that has a fixed output voltage
of 1V.  Assuming you want 15mA through your LEDs, make sure the output
current of the voltage regulator is 15mA by placing a 67 Ohm resistor
from the output pin to ground.  The current out the VOUT of a 3 pin
regulator will be equal to the current at the VIN of the regulator.
Then put your string of LEDs from the "unregulated" voltage in and the
Vin pin of your regulator.  You will have to add up the expected voltage
drops of the LEDs. and subtract that value from the unregulated Voltage
supply.  then subtract the voltage regulators output voltage, in this
case 1V from whats left.  Now, make sure that the remaining voltage is
at least a little bit higher than the dropout voltage of the regulator.
I have done this countless times.  It should be pretty simple to use a
POT and a resistor to dim the LEDs within a preset range, or if your
regulator has a shutdown pin you could PWM it from your favorite
microcontroller.

You should avoid putting LEDs in series when using a simple dropping
resistor.  That scheme will seem to work well for a little while then
you may find your LEDs failing.  In my experience this doesn't work long
term and in this scheme the LEDs fail one by one shorted.  I don't think
the voltage drop on each LED is all that constant over time and
temperature.

73
KD8CIV

On Sat, 2017-01-07 at 02:14 -0800, Dave Fifield wrote:

> An LED is basically a fancy diode, so a linear voltage regulator to control
> its brightness will not work well.
> 
> Starting from around 2V output (say) the LED/s will be OFF. As you increase
> the regulator's output voltage, somewhere around 2.5V (depends on the exact
> type of LED you're using), the LED will begin to conduct forward current and
> start to emit light. At this point, increasing the regulator's output
> voltage just a tiny bit will increase the brightness of the LED a lot (it's
> basically an exponential curve). So at just a couple hundred mV above the
> voltage where the LED began to emit light, you will reach full brightness.
> Any further increase in the drive voltage will merely result in the series
> current-limiting resistor dissipating more heat.
> 
> What is really needed here is a linearly-variable constant-current generator
> circuit. This is a fairly simple circuit to design, usually consisting of a
> voltage reference, a comparator, and a drive transistor, with some feedback
> from a current sensing resistor. It will need to be designed so that it can
> generate enough voltage to overcome the LED's forward voltage (Vf), and with
> an output current that's variable from 0mA to around 20mA (or whatever the
> LED's maximum forward current (If max) is specified at). 
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Cheers es 73,
> Dave
> AD6A
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
> D'Eau Claire
> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2017 8:17 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
> recommendation needed
> 
> A linear voltage regulator is very quiet. That's just a bipolar transistor
> passing the current with adjustable base voltage. I use them on my HB power
> supplies for the same reason. No square switching, no RFI. 
> 
> 73, Ron AC7AC
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
> Frantz
> Sent: Friday, January 6, 2017 6:07 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
> recommendation needed
> 
> To avoid color shifts with dimming, most LED dimmers use Pulse Width
> Modulation (PWM). PWM has the potential to generate RFI, so be careful. The
> LEDs themselves should be very quiet. Using LEDs with resistors to limit the
> current should also be quiet. A system that switches LEDs for brightness
> control would be a safe solution, but I don't know of any commercial systems
> which do this.
> 
> On the other hand, I have not noticed a problem with the LED dimmers in my
> house, so perhaps most of the problem is in the wall-wart power supply.
> 
> 73 Bill AE6JV
> 
> On 1/6/17 at 3:50 AM, elecraft@mailman.qth.net (Marc Veeneman via Elecraft)
> wrote:
> 
> >I mounted (dual side adhesive tape) an LED strip to the underside of an 
> >equipment shelf.  The strip came with a 12v switcher that I ignored.  I 
> >use my 12 volt supply.  The strip was, I think, 24 inches long and has 
> >a dimmer that can be inserted in the power lead.  No RFI.  Plenty 
> >bright.  Mine came from Amazon but there are many to choose from these 
> >days; you can even select color temperature when you order.
> ---
> Bill Frantz| Truth and love must prevail  | Periwinkle
> (408)356-8506  | over lies and hate.  | 16345 
> Englewood 

Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp

2017-01-07 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Component count wise, a voltage regulator and a current regulator take about
the same number of components.

Controlling the  (linear) current to an LED is an easy way to vary the
brightness, but the useable range is limited.

You can test this with a typical voltage & current regulated bench supply.

Set the output voltage at say 3 to 4 volts with the current limit set at 1
to 2 mA.  The long lead of the LED is positive. Then adjust the current up
to the rating of the particular LED you're testing.
50 mA is fairly high, so 20 mA might be a safe max amount, but you will see
a definite variation in light output.

Typically,  component, or panel type LEDs are monochrome.  That is, they
emit a very narrow frequency band of light.
A lamp designed for home use must however, emit a much wider band such that
it's illumination quality covers about the same range as an incandescent
filament light bulb.   The quality of this light as well as the central band
of energy is defined as a temperature in degrees*  Kelvin.  A "warm" light
will typically emit light in the 2500 to 2700 K range, where-as the higher
temperatures around 6500K are much "bluer", or more like daylight.

The actual light is emitted NOT by the LED itself, but a phosphor coating
inside the LED which is excited by the LED's output.   Dirt-cheap hand
flashlights can approach a wider band of light by combining a yellow and a
blue LED in the same package.  I may be wrong, but I believe panel type
"white light" LED's use a combination of color LED's much like a TV screen
to generate the white light.

One characteristic of an LED is that it shuts off instantly when the current
through it is cut off.  With a phosphor driven LED there will be a
noticeable time lag as the light output fades out on power down.

73, Charlie k3ICH

*A particularly fascinating scientific concept is that any substance, when
heated to the same (incandescent) color will be the same temperature.  It
doesn't matter if it's charcoal, a wire filament, or a feather, if it glows
the same color, they'll all be the same temperature.  Degrees Kelvin is just
a convenient way of defining that temperature, or color.  The item will go
from red through orange, to yellow as the temperature rises.   This was the
at one time, the lab standard for measuring high temperatures.  A filament,
placed in the path of a lens was heated via an external calibrated current
source.  When the visible wire seemed to disappear through the scope when it
was the same color as the observed item, the temperature was read off the
current dial.   Obviously, this was limited to the temperature range where
the filament glowed.




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Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position recommendation needed

2017-01-07 Thread David Woolley
There will be a switching converter on any quality make of LED lighting. 
 The only way you avoid it is if they use a simple series dropper 
resistor, which is not energy efficient.


LEDs are constant current devices, so there is no such thing as a 12V 
LED (an LED with a 12V forward voltage drop would be well into the far 
ultraviolet, and would still need current regulation).


Professional installations would use a switching constant current supply 
(typically called a driver).  Those for amateurs and the average 
building contractor would mimic tungsten bulbs by having a constant 
current switching regulator in each bulb.


Some cheap mains operated lamps use capacitive droppers followed by 
rectifier and resistive current limiter.  They are the type likely to be 
sold in one dollar stores, or on Ebay.

#
On 06/01/17 11:50, Marc Veeneman wrote:

\


On Jan 6, 2017, at 2:00 AM, Peter D. Vouvounas  wrote:

I presume some of you have been through a selection process to find a usable
dimmable LED desk lamp with articulating arm that does not create RFI back
into your Flex on HF.




I mounted (dual side adhesive tape) an LED strip to the underside of an 
equipment shelf.  The strip came with a 12v switcher that I ignored.  I use my 
12 volt supply.  The strip was, I think, 24 inches long and has a dimmer that 
can be inserted in the power lead.  No RFI.  Plenty bright.  Mine came from 
Amazon but there are many to choose from these days; you can even select color 
temperature when you order.



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Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position recommendation needed

2017-01-07 Thread Dave Fifield
An LED is basically a fancy diode, so a linear voltage regulator to control
its brightness will not work well.

Starting from around 2V output (say) the LED/s will be OFF. As you increase
the regulator's output voltage, somewhere around 2.5V (depends on the exact
type of LED you're using), the LED will begin to conduct forward current and
start to emit light. At this point, increasing the regulator's output
voltage just a tiny bit will increase the brightness of the LED a lot (it's
basically an exponential curve). So at just a couple hundred mV above the
voltage where the LED began to emit light, you will reach full brightness.
Any further increase in the drive voltage will merely result in the series
current-limiting resistor dissipating more heat.

What is really needed here is a linearly-variable constant-current generator
circuit. This is a fairly simple circuit to design, usually consisting of a
voltage reference, a comparator, and a drive transistor, with some feedback
from a current sensing resistor. It will need to be designed so that it can
generate enough voltage to overcome the LED's forward voltage (Vf), and with
an output current that's variable from 0mA to around 20mA (or whatever the
LED's maximum forward current (If max) is specified at). 

Hope this helps.

Cheers es 73,
Dave
AD6A

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
D'Eau Claire
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2017 8:17 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
recommendation needed

A linear voltage regulator is very quiet. That's just a bipolar transistor
passing the current with adjustable base voltage. I use them on my HB power
supplies for the same reason. No square switching, no RFI. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Frantz
Sent: Friday, January 6, 2017 6:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
recommendation needed

To avoid color shifts with dimming, most LED dimmers use Pulse Width
Modulation (PWM). PWM has the potential to generate RFI, so be careful. The
LEDs themselves should be very quiet. Using LEDs with resistors to limit the
current should also be quiet. A system that switches LEDs for brightness
control would be a safe solution, but I don't know of any commercial systems
which do this.

On the other hand, I have not noticed a problem with the LED dimmers in my
house, so perhaps most of the problem is in the wall-wart power supply.

73 Bill AE6JV

On 1/6/17 at 3:50 AM, elecraft@mailman.qth.net (Marc Veeneman via Elecraft)
wrote:

>I mounted (dual side adhesive tape) an LED strip to the underside of an 
>equipment shelf.  The strip came with a 12v switcher that I ignored.  I 
>use my 12 volt supply.  The strip was, I think, 24 inches long and has 
>a dimmer that can be inserted in the power lead.  No RFI.  Plenty 
>bright.  Mine came from Amazon but there are many to choose from these 
>days; you can even select color temperature when you order.
---
Bill Frantz| Truth and love must prevail  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | over lies and hate.  | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |   - Vaclav Havel | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032

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