Re: [Elecraft] K3 for SWL?

[Wes Stewart]

Why don't you just buy a10-tube superhet in a large walnut cabinet with a cloth 
speaker grille and an amber back-lighted circular dial driven by dial cord and 
ganged capacitors?  Maybe throw in a magic eye tube. :-)


On 2/1/2017 9:26 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

I confess that what I am trying to recreate is the warm sound of a 10-tube 
supperhet in a large walnut cabinet with a cloth speaker grille and an amber 
back-lighted circular dial driven by dial cord and ganged capacitors while 
listening to a Radio Moscow announcer crow about Sputnik.  Or so I now 
fantasize about my early radio experiences in the 1950s.



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] K3 for SWL?

[Leroy Marion]

Well with the short wave stations just about gone, except for the religious 
stations, I not sure I see the point.  But  my K3s with the sub receiver so you 
can run diversity receive is the hottest receiver I have owned in my 50 years 
of doing so.   Way overkill to receive the few multi kilowatt AM stations.

Leroy  AB7CE

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dauer, 
Edward
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2017 9:27 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 for SWL?

I would like to hear from anyone who uses a K3 or K3S extensively for general 
coverage HF / short-wave listening.



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] K3 for SWL?

[Walter Underwood]

I was curious, so I tried an A/B test between my KX3 and my Lowe HF-150 Europa. 
Listening to Radio Havana Cuba on 6100, I eventually preferred the KX3. The 
Lowe had more highs, especially with the synchronous detector, but the signal 
was cleaner from the KX3. The KX3 does have a somewhat better antenna, a dipole 
with a balun and coax feed instead of a wire stapled to the top of the fence. I 
listened in USB with the filters wide open (0.05 to 4.05), NR off. To be fair, 
this was a fine signal, S9+10.

This was with my ham-cheap external speaker setup, an $8 audio amp and a $22 
per pair set of Pyle 3” speakers.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Feb 1, 2017, at 9:07 PM, Walter Underwood  wrote:
> 
> This might help. It is a review of the KX3 as an SWL receiver. The K3 would 
> add synchronous AM reception and wider filters.
> 
> http://swling.com/blog/2013/07/a-review-of-the-elecraft-kx3-a-world-class-transceiver-superb-shortwave-receiver/
>  
> 
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> 
>> On Feb 1, 2017, at 8:26 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
>> 
>> I would like to hear from anyone who uses a K3 or K3S extensively for 
>> general coverage HF / short-wave listening.
>> 
>> I am looking for a table-top receiver with general coverage strictly for 
>> bedroom listening, as the station downstairs already includes a K3/100 
>> system, a KX3 system, two K2s, and a K1.  This seems to be a neglected part 
>> of the radio market.  What is available seems pretty slim and, frankly, 
>> tinny.  The Sangean ATS-909X has the best reviews but still looks like 
>> something I would have taken to the beach rather than sat in front of while 
>> transfixed with the global reach of radio.  The new ICOM IC-R8600 looks 
>> good, with a range up to 3 gigs, but it’s not available yet and the price is 
>> likely to be in the multi-kilobuck range when it is released.
>> 
>> So, being a loyal member of the Elecraft community, I thought about a K3S 
>> with just the basic 10 watt TX that this particular radio would never use, 
>> no sub-RX, the general coverage bandpass filter and the other accessories 
>> that would extend its range down to LF, an AM roofing filter and naught else.
>> 
>> Then I thought about the ongoing commentary about the K3’s audio . . . .   
>> because . . .
>> 
>> I confess that what I am trying to recreate is the warm sound of a 10-tube 
>> supperhet in a large walnut cabinet with a cloth speaker grille and an amber 
>> back-lighted circular dial driven by dial cord and ganged capacitors while 
>> listening to a Radio Moscow announcer crow about Sputnik.  Or so I now 
>> fantasize about my early radio experiences in the 1950s.
>> 
>> I will spend some quality time with my own K3 trying this idea out, but 
>> thought I would also ask for counsel from the group.  Is there something out 
>> there I haven’t seen yet?  Is it reasonable to think about using a K3S in 
>> just this way?
>> 
>> Thanks for whatever thoughts anyone can offer . . .
>> 
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] K3 for SWL?

[Walter Underwood]

This might help. It is a review of the KX3 as an SWL receiver. The K3 would add 
synchronous AM reception and wider filters.

http://swling.com/blog/2013/07/a-review-of-the-elecraft-kx3-a-world-class-transceiver-superb-shortwave-receiver/
 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Feb 1, 2017, at 8:26 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> I would like to hear from anyone who uses a K3 or K3S extensively for general 
> coverage HF / short-wave listening.
> 
> I am looking for a table-top receiver with general coverage strictly for 
> bedroom listening, as the station downstairs already includes a K3/100 
> system, a KX3 system, two K2s, and a K1.  This seems to be a neglected part 
> of the radio market.  What is available seems pretty slim and, frankly, 
> tinny.  The Sangean ATS-909X has the best reviews but still looks like 
> something I would have taken to the beach rather than sat in front of while 
> transfixed with the global reach of radio.  The new ICOM IC-R8600 looks good, 
> with a range up to 3 gigs, but it’s not available yet and the price is likely 
> to be in the multi-kilobuck range when it is released.
> 
> So, being a loyal member of the Elecraft community, I thought about a K3S 
> with just the basic 10 watt TX that this particular radio would never use, no 
> sub-RX, the general coverage bandpass filter and the other accessories that 
> would extend its range down to LF, an AM roofing filter and naught else.
> 
> Then I thought about the ongoing commentary about the K3’s audio . . . .   
> because . . .
> 
> I confess that what I am trying to recreate is the warm sound of a 10-tube 
> supperhet in a large walnut cabinet with a cloth speaker grille and an amber 
> back-lighted circular dial driven by dial cord and ganged capacitors while 
> listening to a Radio Moscow announcer crow about Sputnik.  Or so I now 
> fantasize about my early radio experiences in the 1950s.
> 
> I will spend some quality time with my own K3 trying this idea out, but 
> thought I would also ask for counsel from the group.  Is there something out 
> there I haven’t seen yet?  Is it reasonable to think about using a K3S in 
> just this way?
> 
> Thanks for whatever thoughts anyone can offer . . .
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] K3 for SWL?

[Dauer, Edward]

Oops.  Forgot to sign my previous message about using a K3 or K3S for SWL.  It 
is

Ted, KN1CBR

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

[Elecraft] ATU Tuning Range

[K9MA]

There was a recent discussion about ATU impedance matching range, and it 
occurred to me that it wouldn't be too hard to make a spread sheet to 
calculate the entire range of an ATU, based on capacitance and 
inductance range and set size.  The data could be plotted on a Smith 
Chart, a separate plot for each band.  It would be a simple matter to 
plug in the data for any of the Elecraft ATU's.  Has anyone done this?  
If not, I'll put it on my list.


73,

Scott  K9MA


--
Scott  K9MA

k...@sdellington.us

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

[Elecraft] K3 for SWL?

[Dauer, Edward]

I would like to hear from anyone who uses a K3 or K3S extensively for general 
coverage HF / short-wave listening.

I am looking for a table-top receiver with general coverage strictly for 
bedroom listening, as the station downstairs already includes a K3/100 system, 
a KX3 system, two K2s, and a K1.  This seems to be a neglected part of the 
radio market.  What is available seems pretty slim and, frankly, tinny.  The 
Sangean ATS-909X has the best reviews but still looks like something I would 
have taken to the beach rather than sat in front of while transfixed with the 
global reach of radio.  The new ICOM IC-R8600 looks good, with a range up to 3 
gigs, but it’s not available yet and the price is likely to be in the 
multi-kilobuck range when it is released.

So, being a loyal member of the Elecraft community, I thought about a K3S with 
just the basic 10 watt TX that this particular radio would never use, no 
sub-RX, the general coverage bandpass filter and the other accessories that 
would extend its range down to LF, an AM roofing filter and naught else.

Then I thought about the ongoing commentary about the K3’s audio . . . .   
because . . .

I confess that what I am trying to recreate is the warm sound of a 10-tube 
supperhet in a large walnut cabinet with a cloth speaker grille and an amber 
back-lighted circular dial driven by dial cord and ganged capacitors while 
listening to a Radio Moscow announcer crow about Sputnik.  Or so I now 
fantasize about my early radio experiences in the 1950s.

I will spend some quality time with my own K3 trying this idea out, but thought 
I would also ask for counsel from the group.  Is there something out there I 
haven’t seen yet?  Is it reasonable to think about using a K3S in just this way?

Thanks for whatever thoughts anyone can offer . . .

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 fans

[Nr4c]

I suspect they need to be switched into the circuit, done with the logic when 
the amp is turned Off. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Feb 1, 2017, at 8:55 PM,   wrote:
> 
> If the fans are running on the capacitor charge when the amp is turned off,
> wouldn't they still run if you pulled the plug?
> 
> John KK9A
> 
> 
> 
> Don Wilhelm wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> Because after power off, the fans are powered by the charge in the 
> KPA500 capacitors discharging, I do not think that is a requirement - 
> but not a bad idea in any case.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 2/1/2017 7:53 PM, John Marvin wrote:
>> I know this thread is supposed to be closed now, and hopefully this
>> would be obvious, but you should also wait for the fans to stop before
>> "pulling the plug". You should always turn the KPA500 off with the
>> switch (or the KPA utility) first, wait for the fans to stop, then you
>> can use the back switch or a power cord switch.
> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to n...@widomaker.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 fans

[Ken K6MR]

Nope. Just tried it (I had to know).



The fan is controlled by the uC via a BJT and voltage regulator controlled by 
FETs. Without standby power everything turns off.



Ken K6MR



From: j...@kk9a.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 1, 2017 5:56 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 fans



If the fans are running on the capacitor charge when the amp is turned off,
wouldn't they still run if you pulled the plug?

John KK9A



Don Wilhelm wrote:

John,

Because after power off, the fans are powered by the charge in the
KPA500 capacitors discharging, I do not think that is a requirement -
but not a bad idea in any case.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/1/2017 7:53 PM, John Marvin wrote:
> I know this thread is supposed to be closed now, and hopefully this
> would be obvious, but you should also wait for the fans to stop before
> "pulling the plug". You should always turn the KPA500 off with the
> switch (or the KPA utility) first, wait for the fans to stop, then you
> can use the back switch or a power cord switch.

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to k...@outlook.com
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 fans

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

The answer is YES, but with any device using any kind of processor, it 
is always better to use the power-off sequence before "pulling the 
plug".  I don't know if this applies directly to the KPA500, but it 
certainly does for the K3(s) and P3 as well as the KX3 and the KX-line.


In other words, to be safe, shut it down before turning off the mains power.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/1/2017 8:55 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

If the fans are running on the capacitor charge when the amp is turned off,
wouldn't they still run if you pulled the plug?


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] OT: Handling Copperweld wire

[Don Wilhelm]

That is one reason why I prefer hard-drawn copper over copperclad.  But 
then the centers of my antenna are supported rather than trying to 
support the weight of the coax by putting tension on the wire.


Also be careful not to put a kink in the copperclad wire, it will break 
through the copper clad surface and cause the steel wire underneath to 
corrode - it will eventually break at that point.


In other words, I have learned to hate copperclad steel wire.
It was a good inexpensive antenna wire when one could buy a 1/4 mile of 
copperclad electric fence wire at a very good price, but those days are 
no more.


Yes, the stuff is springy and wants to keep its coiled shape unless it 
is held under tension, and will kink easily if it is not held under 
tension.  Hard-drawn copper is much more forgiving IMHO.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 2/1/2017 8:39 PM, Michael Goins wrote:

And watch your eyes as it's springy and could injure quite easily.


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

[Elecraft] KPA500 fans

[john]

If the fans are running on the capacitor charge when the amp is turned off,
wouldn't they still run if you pulled the plug?

John KK9A



Don Wilhelm wrote:

John,

Because after power off, the fans are powered by the charge in the 
KPA500 capacitors discharging, I do not think that is a requirement - 
but not a bad idea in any case.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/1/2017 7:53 PM, John Marvin wrote:
> I know this thread is supposed to be closed now, and hopefully this
> would be obvious, but you should also wait for the fans to stop before
> "pulling the plug". You should always turn the KPA500 off with the
> switch (or the KPA utility) first, wait for the fans to stop, then you
> can use the back switch or a power cord switch.

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] OT: Handling Copperweld wire

[Michael Goins]

And watch your eyes as it's springy and could injure quite easily.

Mike, k5wmg
Bella-Green Bed & Breakfast and Tiny Houses
www.bella-green.com



On Wed, Feb 1, 2017 at 7:28 PM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:

> Use caution when working with any kind of copper-plated steel wire.  In the
> process of bending or forming the wire be careful not to "nick" or
> otherwise damage the usually very thin outer cladding of copper.  Don't
> drag it over the rough edge of a roof or across the ground.  Any break in
> the plating will allow moisture to rust the steel core and cause failure of
> the wire.
>
> Been there, done that ... 
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to wmgo...@gmail.com
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

[Elecraft] OT: Handling Copperweld wire

[Ken G Kopp]

Use caution when working with any kind of copper-plated steel wire.  In the
process of bending or forming the wire be careful not to "nick" or
otherwise damage the usually very thin outer cladding of copper.  Don't
drag it over the rough edge of a roof or across the ground.  Any break in
the plating will allow moisture to rust the steel core and cause failure of
the wire.

Been there, done that ... 

73

Ken - K0PP
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] k3 ALC problem

[Don Wilhelm]

The folks at K3support may have some information for you.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/31/2017 4:57 AM, erz.gebirge wrote:

My K3, S/N 7834 and has the newest

Softwareupdate. Power calibration with K3 Utility was enforced.No problem!

TX ALC ON. TECH MD OFF. External watt-meter LP100A.

Problem:

Power out adjust on 30 watts.

issue 1- The meter displayed 100 ..140 watts with the first dot.

 Then, the power out goes back to 30 watts. In approximately
300…500ms.


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

[Elecraft] KAT3 and K3S

[Allen Bush via Elecraft]

 Will a KAT3 (non-a) work fine with a new K3S?  (Knowing that it doesn't have a 
bypass relay)
Allen, W0OUU
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

Because after power off, the fans are powered by the charge in the 
KPA500 capacitors discharging, I do not think that is a requirement - 
but not a bad idea in any case.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/1/2017 7:53 PM, John Marvin wrote:

I know this thread is supposed to be closed now, and hopefully this
would be obvious, but you should also wait for the fans to stop before
"pulling the plug". You should always turn the KPA500 off with the
switch (or the KPA utility) first, wait for the fans to stop, then you
can use the back switch or a power cord switch.

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] Ham Central Terminal

[Shel Radin KF0UR]

Ed, Howard,

The HCT draws less than 20 ma with the backlight off, which is typical when
using it outdoors (it has a transflective display).   With the backlight
off, a 9V Alkaline battery should last approx. 20 hours.  2.5 times longer
with a 9V Lithium battery.

With the backlight on, it is going to draw more current naturally, but you
can control that with 5 levels on intensity provided.

And you have the option of powering it externally, if you like.

73,

Shel KF0UR
QRPworks



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Ham-Central-Terminal-tp7626371p7626379.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[John Marvin]

I know this thread is supposed to be closed now, and hopefully this 
would be obvious, but you should also wait for the fans to stop before 
"pulling the plug". You should always turn the KPA500 off with the 
switch (or the KPA utility) first, wait for the fans to stop, then you 
can use the back switch or a power cord switch.


73,

John
AC0ZG


On 2/1/2017 5:25 PM, Kevin wrote:
Get ye to the local hardware emporium and buy the $10 power strip with 
a switch. Plug the KPA 500 into said switch. When done using the amp 
use the front panel switch to shut it "off" so it saves settings 
properly then hit the switch on the power strip. Viola! You've saved 
six watts and won't end up on some ridiculous website as a planet hater.




__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

[Elecraft] KX2 display on start-up

[Gary Hawkins]

I see the same issue with my KX3.  However, since it goes away after a 
couple of seconds I've got use to it.  Anyone have ideas on the cause?


73's Gary K6YOA


On 2/1/2017 4:25 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2017 13:41:20 +
From: Stephen Prior
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] KX2 display on start-up
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Just received my KX2 and I'm very pleased with it, although fitting the ATU
was a challenge, even after having read the updated information on it!

Anyway, I believe all is well but there is something that I don't
understand.  If the KX2 has been off for a while, when I turn it on I get
some random parts of characters, mainly along the bottom half of the
display.  They remain there for about 3 seconds until the display
illumination comes on and the rest of the display disappears.  This is
absolutely no big deal unless it's a sign of some issue somewhere that has
yet to rear its ugly head!

Running latest (2.69) firmware.  I have a K3 and KX3 and have never noticed
this behaviour with them.

73 Stephen

G4SJP


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[Kevin]

It's been that way with PC's and Mac's for 15 years.

Your PC is not truly "off" when you hit the power switch. That is the 
ATX specification. To start a PC all that happens is the shorting of two 
pins on the motherboard with the switch. There is power on the 
motherboard until you reach behind and flip the switch on the power 
supply itself.


Before it gets brought up, the battery on all PC's is to keep the CMOS 
clock settings alive, not to boot the PC.


Get ye to the local hardware emporium and buy the $10 power strip with a 
switch. Plug the KPA 500 into said switch. When done using the amp use 
the front panel switch to shut it "off" so it saves settings properly 
then hit the switch on the power strip. Viola! You've saved six watts 
and won't end up on some ridiculous website as a planet hater.


That little tidbit was taken from chapter one of the environmentalist 
playbook.


My house and garage are 100% led lit now. ALL of my "toys" are on 
switched inputs. I live in Iowa. My HVAC system is set to 67 in the 
winter and 77 in the summer. I have a tank less water heater. All my 
toilets are 1.5 gallon flush.


I didn't do this because I'm some kind of environmentalist, I did this 
because I'm CHEAP.



n 1/31/2017 9:45 PM, Dave AD6A wrote:

I recently added a KPA500 kit for my home station. It went together just
fine, and overall I love it.

There is one thing about the way it works that bugs the engineer and
environmentalist in me.

  


Before I bought the PA, I thought I'd be able to turn it on/off entirely
using the ON button on the front panel.

I thought that maybe there was a supercap or backup battery that kept the
button's electronics alive to perform the ON button function (like TV's have
in them).

However, it doesn't work like this. In order to turn the PA off completely,
you have to turn off the main power switch on the rear panel.

  


The front panel ON button powers up the PA from what looks like a cold
state, however, my measurements are as follows:

  


1.  With the main power switch on the back panel turned OFF, the PA
takes no power at all (0.0W)
2.  When you turn the main power switch on the back panel to ON, the PA
draws 6.9W continuously from the 120V AC power supply
3.  When you press the front panel ON button, the PA turns "ON" and
takes around 13W (measured) in STBY mode

  


My home station line up (K3s, P3, 2x SP3, KPA500, KAT500) sits on a large
operating desk with a shelf unit that I build above the station. My computer
monitors sit on the shelf above the radios.

There is only just enough height clearance (about 2.5") between the top of
the KPA500 and the underside of the shelf to allow me to put my hand over
the top of the PA to reach the main power switch.

It's fiddly but I can do it, it's just that it's a major inconvenience not
being able to turn the KPA500 truly off from the front panel.

  


Why is the KPA500 designed this way?

In all good conscience, I can't live with the PA consuming 7W all day, every
day - that's incredibly wasteful.

I suppose I could put a more-easily-reachable external AC power switch on
the side of my shelf unit to cut power to the whole desk, but that'd be
ugly.

I'd prefer that either a) the KPA500's main power switch was on the front
panel, or b) the power supply system was redesigned so it only takes a few
microwatts when power is applied but the ON button is OFF (not pressed, or
pressed an even number of times).

  


Comments? Ideas?

  


Cheers,
Dave AD6A




--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] 9:1 Balun AND "random antennas"

[Jim Brown]

Hi Dick,

Sure, you're welcome to forward stuff like this.

As to stuff on my website -- I do NOT permit it to be copied to other 
websites, but I DO encourage links to it.


73, Jim K9YC

On Wed,2/1/2017 8:16 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

Jim,

If you don't object, I'd like to save this and forward to people as
arguments develop on these subjects.

   I wish you had touched on '4:1 baluns'.  Except for this group, so
many people I talk to think a balun should be 4:1, even in their
tuners.  I think it is DX Engineering that addresses this well.

Dick, n0ce


On 1/31/2017 12:50 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

All of this discussion becomes badly confusing by failing to describe
these circuit elements by their real name. The word "balun" is a
bastard -- it is widely used to describe nearly a dozen things that
are VERY different from each other.

W4TV got it right by adding the correct description, and this post
starts to get at it, but adds another bastard word, unun.

Two-windings that are coupled by a magnetic field are a TRANSFORMER.
If the two windings have a terminal in common, they are an
AUTO-TRANSFORMER. A coil of coax is a common mode choke (and not a
good one). A section of transmission line wound around a ferrite core
is a COMMON MODE CHOKE, and if well designed (choice of ferrite
material, number of turns) can be a very good one.

Transformers and auto-transformers transform impedance by virtue of
their turns ratio. Arrays of common mode chokes can also be used to
match circuits of different impedances.

Last I looked, there was no description of the Elecraft "balun"
telling us what it is. Perhaps Eric or Wayne could add that to the
catalog listing for it.

Another point. SWR is NOT an indicator of how well an antenna works.
High SWR DOES increase loss in a feedline, but that matters only with
long feedlines and small diameter coax. That does NOT matter for
typical portable (or even mobile) operation, where feedlines are much
too short for loss to matter.

A high value of SWR as seen by a transmitter DOES limit that power
that the transmitter can put into the antenna. That's where the
antenna tuner comes in -- it transforms the impedance at the
transmitter end of the feedline (or the end of a wire plugged into the
coax connector combined with the counterpoise connected to the
chassis) to the 50 ohm resistive impedance that the transmitter wants
to drive.

If we make RF current flow in a wire, it will radiate. How well it
radiates depends, of course, on its orientation. A wire laying on the
ground doesn't radiate very well. :)  A wire without a counterpoise
will use whatever it sees as a signal return. If that return happens
to be the earth, the earth, which is essentially a big resistor, will
burn much of the transmitter power. The "good" lengths of wire Wayne
and those spreadsheets list are simply lengths that are likely to
present an impedance within range of most antenna tuners for the bands
that the operator is likely to use.

73, Jim K9YC


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to j...@audiosystemsgroup.com



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] Ham Central Terminal

[k2ud]

I run one with my KX3, it is nice.  The only foible to announce is occasional 
key bounce from an external keyboard.  Need to track that one down.  This is 
with no common ground between the terminal and the KX3.

It is a little piggish on 9V batteries, the current consumption dictates that 
you may want spares on hand for a lengthy contest or run with external power.

GL es 72

Howard Kraus, K2UD
 Ed Frambes  wrote: 
> Does anyone own a QRPWorks Ham Central Terminal and use it with a KX2?
> I'm thinking adding one to my KX2 and looking at ya or na opinions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ed Frambes   K8EAF
> efram...@gmail.com
> -- 
> All apologies for any short responses or typos!
> Sent from my mobile device
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to k...@roadrunner.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[John Oppenheimer]

501 ladder line #18 solid CCS copper thickness is 0.0717 mm
http://copperweld.com/sites/copperweld.com/files/w30ccs-ed5230.pdf

RF skin saturation is well below 1 MHz using the calculator:
http://owenduffy.net/calc/SkinDepth.htm

551 is #18, 19/30 stranded, #30 CCS copper thickness is 0.0178 mm

John KN5L

On 02/01/2017 01:18 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
> This may not always be possible.
> 
> Copper-clad steel exists because it's stronger than copper.  Wind, ice, 
> or simply a long span can exceed the strength of copper, and then you 
> don't have an antenna at all.
> 
> "Over-engineering" by making the wire bigger also makes it heaver and 
> gives it a larger cross section (more windage).
> 
> I guess you could take your large diameter copper and wrap it around 
> something else to hold it up, but that's basically the idea behind 
> copper clad steel.
> 
> To me, the earlier post means that not all copper-clad wire is suitable 
> for all antennas -- with #553 as an example.
> 
> 73 -- Lynn
> 
> On 2/1/2017 10:57 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> Well then...  that seems to vindicate my desire to avoid CCS wire and
>> "overengineer" with the use of larger wire diameters.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] Many thanks

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I find it easy to spend my hard earned money with them.





  From: David F. Reed 
 To: elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Wednesday, February 1, 2017 10:29 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Many thanks
   
Dear folks at Elecraft and on the list;

I have been enjoying Elecraft products for many years, starting with a 
K1, then a K2, then a KX2... followed by my current K3, KX3, and KX2.

I use the K3 as my mainradio in the shack. It is fairly loaded with the 
second receiver and nice filters and supplemented by a P3 and a KPA500 
and KAT500.  They feed a 3 element Quad up 75 feet on 20 - 6 meter, and 
dipoles for 160 - 30 meters.

I use the KX3 as a secondary station in my library with different 
antennas and a KXP3 and KXPA100.

I use the KX2 as my portable station when I am out camping or on a picnic.

Over the years, I have come to anticipate the new releases from Elecraft 
eagerly.

I just wanted to thank Elecraft for their top notch designs and customer 
support which I have benefited from more than once, and to thank the 
list for their support as well; they have contributed significantly to a 
hobby I have enjoyed now for some 59 years and hope to for a few more years.

best 72 for the QRPers, & 73 for the QROers out there.

--W5SV, Dave

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to hlyin...@yahoo.com


   
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

[Elecraft] Ham Central Terminal

[Ed Frambes]

Does anyone own a QRPWorks Ham Central Terminal and use it with a KX2?
I'm thinking adding one to my KX2 and looking at ya or na opinions.

Thanks,

Ed Frambes   K8EAF
efram...@gmail.com
-- 
All apologies for any short responses or typos!
Sent from my mobile device
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

This may not always be possible.

Copper-clad steel exists because it's stronger than copper.  Wind, ice, 
or simply a long span can exceed the strength of copper, and then you 
don't have an antenna at all.


"Over-engineering" by making the wire bigger also makes it heaver and 
gives it a larger cross section (more windage).


I guess you could take your large diameter copper and wrap it around 
something else to hold it up, but that's basically the idea behind 
copper clad steel.


To me, the earlier post means that not all copper-clad wire is suitable 
for all antennas -- with #553 as an example.


73 -- Lynn

On 2/1/2017 10:57 AM, Clay Autery wrote:

Well then...  that seems to vindicate my desire to avoid CCS wire and
"overengineer" with the use of larger wire diameters.


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[John Marvin]

Dave,

Perhaps you want to turn on your amp manually each time. But what you 
may have missed is that 7 watts is doing more than just detecting 
whether the power switch on the front is used or not. When the KPA500 is 
"off" the RS-232 connection on the back is still live, and there is a 
processor in the KPA500 that is monitoring that connection. You can 
remotely turn on the KPA500 using the KPA utility.  For those whose 
KPA500's are in a remote location, or just in an inconvenient location 
(i.e. not adjacent or within easy reach of your operating position), 
this is a very nice feature. It would be more than just the "power 
supply system" that would need to be redesigned.


73,

John
AC0ZG

On 1/31/2017 8:45 PM, Dave AD6A wrote:

I recently added a KPA500 kit for my home station. It went together just
fine, and overall I love it.

There is one thing about the way it works that bugs the engineer and
environmentalist in me.

  


Before I bought the PA, I thought I'd be able to turn it on/off entirely
using the ON button on the front panel.

I thought that maybe there was a supercap or backup battery that kept the
button's electronics alive to perform the ON button function (like TV's have
in them).

However, it doesn't work like this. In order to turn the PA off completely,
you have to turn off the main power switch on the rear panel.

  


The front panel ON button powers up the PA from what looks like a cold
state, however, my measurements are as follows:

  


1.  With the main power switch on the back panel turned OFF, the PA
takes no power at all (0.0W)
2.  When you turn the main power switch on the back panel to ON, the PA
draws 6.9W continuously from the 120V AC power supply
3.  When you press the front panel ON button, the PA turns "ON" and
takes around 13W (measured) in STBY mode

  


My home station line up (K3s, P3, 2x SP3, KPA500, KAT500) sits on a large
operating desk with a shelf unit that I build above the station. My computer
monitors sit on the shelf above the radios.

There is only just enough height clearance (about 2.5") between the top of
the KPA500 and the underside of the shelf to allow me to put my hand over
the top of the PA to reach the main power switch.

It's fiddly but I can do it, it's just that it's a major inconvenience not
being able to turn the KPA500 truly off from the front panel.

  


Why is the KPA500 designed this way?

In all good conscience, I can't live with the PA consuming 7W all day, every
day - that's incredibly wasteful.

I suppose I could put a more-easily-reachable external AC power switch on
the side of my shelf unit to cut power to the whole desk, but that'd be
ugly.

I'd prefer that either a) the KPA500's main power switch was on the front
panel, or b) the power supply system was redesigned so it only takes a few
microwatts when power is applied but the ON button is OFF (not pressed, or
pressed an even number of times).

  


Comments? Ideas?

  


Cheers,
Dave AD6A




__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Guys - this is getting beat to death and to be honest, a few of the comments 
have strayed outside of our 'keep it respectful' list guidelines.


Let's close the thread at this time.

73,
Eric
/elecraft.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[Clay Autery]

Thanks...  and if I missed a response from the OP, thank as well.

Well then...  that seems to vindicate my desire to avoid CCS wire and
"overengineer" with the use of larger wire diameters.
And it clues me in to pay attention to every single detail when
designing a transmission line system.

Thanks again...

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 2/1/2017 6:25 AM, John Oppenheimer wrote:
> Wireman 553 uses a 19 strand Copper Clad Steal (CCS) conductor which
> results with very thin copper cladding. 553 is skin saturated at about
> 15 MHz. The loss at 1.8 MHz is approximately 0.21 dB per 100 feet.
>
> http://www.kn5l.net/wm553/
>
> Using EZNEC and SimSmith for the antenna below results with 13.8 dB
> transmission line loss. Slightly greater loss then Wes' calculations.
>
> John KN5L
>
> On 01/31/2017 04:12 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
>> A 130' dipole, 60' high on 160 has a feed point Z of ~4.5 -j1200.  One 
>> hundred 
>> feet of Wireman 553 (typical ladderline) will transform this to ~7.5 +j16 at 
>> the 
>> input.  The total loss in this "low-loss" line is over 12 dB.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to caut...@montac.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[Clay Autery]

"Incredibly wasteful" - Seems like a little bit of an overstatement.

That's only 4.968 Kilowatt-Hours a month assuming it is idling 24/7 for
30 days.

For me, that'd be about $0.49 in electricity.  At $0.22 a KW-Hr, it'd
still be under a buck per month.

If this is still "incredibly wasteful" then you need to check every
other appliance and electrical device in your house, because most of
them are likely consuming "incredible" amounts of electricity when they
are "OFF".

If you really must avoid consuming this 5 KWHr (it won't be that much
"waste" because you have to subtract the actual usage time), then you
can place an accessible switch like a properly sized multiplug inline
with the KPA500, et al. to switch off the power altogether AFTER you
shut it down at the front panel.

Have a great day...

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

> In all good conscience, I can't live with the PA consuming 7W all day, every
> day - that's incredibly wasteful.
>
>

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

AD6A wrote:

I thought that maybe there was a supercap or backup battery that kept the
button's electronics alive to perform the ON button function (like TV's
have in them).

Am I missing something?

Didn't it take power to to charge that supercap or backup battery?

Is there really a difference between drawing a tiny bit of mains power 
when "off" and drawing a tiny bit of mains power to maintain these when 
"on?"


Too often, it's easier to move a problem around than to actually solve it.

73 -- Lynn
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] 9:1 Balun

[Ignacy]

Practical side only.

Assume you use a random wire antenna. AT in K2 or KX3 will not match all
bands directly. It will match with BL1 or BL2 in 4:1 mode. This is because:
1. After transformation, the impedance is more manageable to KAT2 or KXAT3.
2. Loss in balun. Mainly on lower bands with short antennas. 

Whenever I have space for BL1, I use it. It is no brainer as I prefer the
match than no match and balun overheat than AT overheat. Heating occurs
mainly at bands were the wire is too short.  

New transformers can have extremely low loss. A 64:1 transformer used for
40-10 or 80-10 endfeds at myantennas.com is just warm at a KW level. 

Ignacy, NO9E 





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/9-1-Balun-tp7626310p7626364.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[KENT TRIMBLE]

Leave it to an environmentalist (I'll spare the engineers) to advocate 
the spending of thousands of dollars in redesigning something that can 
be fixed with a quick trip to a local hardware store for a $25 (or less) 
master kill-switch.


Kent, K9ZTV



There is one thing about the way it works that bugs the engineer and
environmentalist in me.


Why is the KPA500 designed this way?

In all good conscience, I can't live with the PA consuming 7W all day,
every day - that's incredibly wasteful.  I suppose I could put a 
more-easily-reachable external AC power switch on
the side of my shelf unit to cut power to the whole desk, but that'd be
ugly.

I'd prefer that either a) the KPA500's main power switch was on the front
panel, or b) the power supply system was redesigned so it only takes a few
microwatts when power is applied but the ON button is OFF (not pressed, or
pressed an even number of times).





__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] Why no love for the 1khz CW filter?

[Scott via Elecraft]

That raises an interesting question.
 
Looking at Rob's numbers (assuming I've read the chart footnotes correctly) 
 he's done the close in numbers for the KX3 with and without the roofing  
filter.
 
But the close in numbers for K3S numbers were only done with the cw  
roofing filters.
 
Is there with/without roofing filter data available for the K3S I  missed? 
 
I realize the proof is in the performance, but still, inquiring minds and  
all that.
 
Cheers Scott ka9p
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 2/1/2017 9:51:57 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
w...@w0mu.com writes:

I have a  1k filter.  Does it make much difference.  I have no clue  
really.  Would I be better served with an FM filter?  maybe  .  My main 
receiver has 2.8. 1.8. 1.0 400 and 250 or 200 filters. I  do ssb contest 
and travel to DX locations from time to time. The SSB  filters are 
essential.  For CW I honestly think that the 400 is fine  for most.  I 
dislike the sound when I really crank the skirts down on  CW but 
sometimes you must so it is nice to have it.

If you plan to  do diversity receivers you need the same filters in each 
one and they need  to be "matched" as close as possible to get the best 
results.

2.7  and 400 and and FM filter if you want fm and or AM would be fine for  
many.

W0MU


On 2/1/2017 4:26 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS  wrote:
> Hi Andy,
>
> several replies giving you an ideas  over here.
> Refer to Jim, K9YC...it is short and clear.
>
>  I am recommending you to simply stay calm.
> Turn your radio ON, sit and  play...
> Use it daily in different situation for few months
>  then you will be more familiar with radio and
> all functions behavior  and you will have better idea
> what you really need.
>
>  Good luck and enjoy your K3!
>
> 73 - Petr, OK1RP
> (K3/100  #778 since 2008)
>
>
>
>
> -
>  http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
> --
> View this message in context:  
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Why-no-love-for-the-1khz-CW-filter-tp7626342p7626353.html
>  Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>  __
>  Elecraft mailing list
> Home:  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help:  http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post:  mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by:  http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list:  http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to  w...@w0mu.com

__
Elecraft  mailing list
Home:  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help:  http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:  mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by:  http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list:  http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to  k...@aol.com

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] 9:1 Balun AND "random antennas"

[Richard Fjeld]

Jim,

If you don't object, I'd like to save this and forward to people as 
arguments develop on these subjects.

  I wish you had touched on '4:1 baluns'.  Except for this group, so 
many people I talk to think a balun should be 4:1, even in their 
tuners.  I think it is DX Engineering that addresses this well.

Dick, n0ce


On 1/31/2017 12:50 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> All of this discussion becomes badly confusing by failing to describe 
> these circuit elements by their real name. The word "balun" is a 
> bastard -- it is widely used to describe nearly a dozen things that 
> are VERY different from each other.
>
> W4TV got it right by adding the correct description, and this post 
> starts to get at it, but adds another bastard word, unun.
>
> Two-windings that are coupled by a magnetic field are a TRANSFORMER.  
> If the two windings have a terminal in common, they are an 
> AUTO-TRANSFORMER. A coil of coax is a common mode choke (and not a 
> good one). A section of transmission line wound around a ferrite core 
> is a COMMON MODE CHOKE, and if well designed (choice of ferrite 
> material, number of turns) can be a very good one.
>
> Transformers and auto-transformers transform impedance by virtue of 
> their turns ratio. Arrays of common mode chokes can also be used to 
> match circuits of different impedances.
>
> Last I looked, there was no description of the Elecraft "balun" 
> telling us what it is. Perhaps Eric or Wayne could add that to the 
> catalog listing for it.
>
> Another point. SWR is NOT an indicator of how well an antenna works. 
> High SWR DOES increase loss in a feedline, but that matters only with 
> long feedlines and small diameter coax. That does NOT matter for 
> typical portable (or even mobile) operation, where feedlines are much 
> too short for loss to matter.
>
> A high value of SWR as seen by a transmitter DOES limit that power 
> that the transmitter can put into the antenna. That's where the 
> antenna tuner comes in -- it transforms the impedance at the 
> transmitter end of the feedline (or the end of a wire plugged into the 
> coax connector combined with the counterpoise connected to the 
> chassis) to the 50 ohm resistive impedance that the transmitter wants 
> to drive.
>
> If we make RF current flow in a wire, it will radiate. How well it 
> radiates depends, of course, on its orientation. A wire laying on the 
> ground doesn't radiate very well. :)  A wire without a counterpoise 
> will use whatever it sees as a signal return. If that return happens 
> to be the earth, the earth, which is essentially a big resistor, will 
> burn much of the transmitter power. The "good" lengths of wire Wayne 
> and those spreadsheets list are simply lengths that are likely to 
> present an impedance within range of most antenna tuners for the bands 
> that the operator is likely to use.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KX2 display on start-up

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Stephen,

This is completely normal. Sometimes the segments will be randomized, sometimes 
not. We initialize the LCD after doing a checksum and power-up status checks. 

If you watch carefully you may discover meaningful patterns in the seemingly 
scrambled segments. This can be a therapeutic family activity and a welcome 
distraction from obsessing over politics, dark matter, and related issues.

Wayne
N6KR 


On Feb 1, 2017, at 5:41 AM, Stephen Prior  wrote:

> Just received my KX2 and I'm very pleased with it, although fitting the ATU
> was a challenge, even after having read the updated information on it!
> 
> Anyway, I believe all is well but there is something that I don't
> understand.  If the KX2 has been off for a while, when I turn it on I get
> some random parts of characters, mainly along the bottom half of the
> display.  They remain there for about 3 seconds until the display
> illumination comes on and the rest of the display disappears.  This is
> absolutely no big deal unless it's a sign of some issue somewhere that has
> yet to rear its ugly head!
> 
> Running latest (2.69) firmware.  I have a K3 and KX3 and have never noticed
> this behaviour with them.
> 
> 73 Stephen
> 
> G4SJP



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] Why no love for the 1khz CW filter?

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

I have a 1k filter.  Does it make much difference.  I have no clue 
really.  Would I be better served with an FM filter?  maybe .  My main 
receiver has 2.8. 1.8. 1.0 400 and 250 or 200 filters. I do ssb contest 
and travel to DX locations from time to time. The SSB filters are 
essential.  For CW I honestly think that the 400 is fine for most.  I 
dislike the sound when I really crank the skirts down on CW but 
sometimes you must so it is nice to have it.


If you plan to do diversity receivers you need the same filters in each 
one and they need to be "matched" as close as possible to get the best 
results.


2.7 and 400 and and FM filter if you want fm and or AM would be fine for 
many.


W0MU


On 2/1/2017 4:26 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Andy,

several replies giving you an ideas over here.
Refer to Jim, K9YC...it is short and clear.

I am recommending you to simply stay calm.
Turn your radio ON, sit and play...
Use it daily in different situation for few months
then you will be more familiar with radio and
all functions behavior and you will have better idea
what you really need.

Good luck and enjoy your K3!

73 - Petr, OK1RP
(K3/100 #778 since 2008)




-
http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Why-no-love-for-the-1khz-CW-filter-tp7626342p7626353.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to w...@w0mu.com


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

[Elecraft] Many thanks

[David F. Reed]

Dear folks at Elecraft and on the list;

I have been enjoying Elecraft products for many years, starting with a 
K1, then a K2, then a KX2... followed by my current K3, KX3, and KX2.


I use the K3 as my mainradio in the shack. It is fairly loaded with the 
second receiver and nice filters and supplemented by a P3 and a KPA500 
and KAT500.  They feed a 3 element Quad up 75 feet on 20 - 6 meter, and 
dipoles for 160 - 30 meters.


I use the KX3 as a secondary station in my library with different 
antennas and a KXP3 and KXPA100.


I use the KX2 as my portable station when I am out camping or on a picnic.

Over the years, I have come to anticipate the new releases from Elecraft 
eagerly.


I just wanted to thank Elecraft for their top notch designs and customer 
support which I have benefited from more than once, and to thank the 
list for their support as well; they have contributed significantly to a 
hobby I have enjoyed now for some 59 years and hope to for a few more years.


best 72 for the QRPers, & 73 for the QROers out there.

--W5SV, Dave

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Desk top PC can eat over 400 watts of power just sitting there.
When finished, I always put mine in "standby" or "sleep" mode which drops
the power usage to a few watts.
I verified these readings with one of those handy little "Kill-O-Watt" power
line devices.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Guy
Olinger K2AV
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2017 7:37 AM
To: Dave AD6A ; Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

While without reference to quantities I certainly agree with the sentiment,
but to be focused on a night light level power is kind of like swatting at
gnats while pidgeons are flying around in the kitchen.

Does your attic insulation need replacing. Are all of the light fixtures in
your house converted to LED. Are your refrigerators made in the current
decade. Are all of your windows gas-filled double pane. Are your water
heater and all the hot water piping in your house insulated. The list of
things that would bury that 6 watts by a couple of orders of magnitude is
quite long.

Then there is this other thing specific to CPU based equipment. And that is
maintaining signal states relative to other equipment. They get confused
when things go cold off and aren't brought back on in a particular sequence.

It was always fun when the PC folks at SAS (which is buried in PCs) had to
take down a thousand or so functionally shared PCs for maintenance or
something. They had to be taken off in sequence and brought back in service
with a very complex and specifically ordered startup. Every now and then
that group had to work all hands on deck 48 hour weekends and took naps on
cots put out for the purpose. Those PCs were kept on their own AC mains with
a honking monster UPS that would power my house for weeks off the grid.
Power blips taking down a couple floors of PCs could put a building full of
very high paid advanced programmer types sitting on their hands for a day or
worse. They figured that out early and spent the money.

Your Elecraft gear has some related if not so killer issues on cold starts
that nevertheless result in tech support calls. Think Big E just trying to
keep the noise and confusion down on the TS lines, with a method that has
become pretty much standard practice.

Seems to me it's been a long time since TVs had batteries in them unless it
was a portable intended to be operated off mains. Paying for a service call
to replace a battery gone bad was drummed out long time back.

If you have a PC in the shack, do you do a shutdown when you leave? Or leave
it on to get OS and virus security updates and email?  Check the power draw
on that.

I'm trying to convince the wife to replace our 23 year old kitchen
refrigerator that still works perfectly.

I wish that my KPA's off state power draw was the prime offender at my house
:>).

73, Guy K2AV

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 10:46 PM Dave AD6A  wrote:

> I recently added a KPA500 kit for my home station. It went together 
> just fine, and overall I love it.
>
> There is one thing about the way it works that bugs the engineer and 
> environmentalist in me.
>
>
>
> Before I bought the PA, I thought I'd be able to turn it on/off 
> entirely using the ON button on the front panel.
>
> I thought that maybe there was a supercap or backup battery that kept 
> the button's electronics alive to perform the ON button function (like 
> TV's have in them).
>
> However, it doesn't work like this. In order to turn the PA off 
> completely, you have to turn off the main power switch on the rear panel.
>
>
>
> The front panel ON button powers up the PA from what looks like a cold 
> state, however, my measurements are as follows:
>
>
>
> 1.  With the main power switch on the back panel turned OFF, the PA
> takes no power at all (0.0W)
> 2.  When you turn the main power switch on the back panel to ON, the
PA
> draws 6.9W continuously from the 120V AC power supply
> 3.  When you press the front panel ON button, the PA turns "ON" and
> takes around 13W (measured) in STBY mode
>
>
>
> My home station line up (K3s, P3, 2x SP3, KPA500, KAT500) sits on a 
> large operating desk with a shelf unit that I build above the station. 
> My computer monitors sit on the shelf above the radios.
>
> There is only just enough height clearance (about 2.5") between the 
> top of the KPA500 and the underside of the shelf to allow me to put my 
> hand over the top of the PA to reach the main power switch.
>
> It's fiddly but I can do it, it's just that it's a major inconvenience 
> not being able to turn the KPA500 truly off from the front panel.
>
>
>
> Why is the KPA500 designed this way?
>
> In all good conscience, I can't live with the PA consuming 7W all day, 
> every day - that's incredibly wasteful.
>
> I suppose I could put a more-easily-reachable external AC power switch 
> on the 

[Elecraft] KX2 display on start-up

[Stephen Prior]

Just received my KX2 and I'm very pleased with it, although fitting the ATU
was a challenge, even after having read the updated information on it!

Anyway, I believe all is well but there is something that I don't
understand.  If the KX2 has been off for a while, when I turn it on I get
some random parts of characters, mainly along the bottom half of the
display.  They remain there for about 3 seconds until the display
illumination comes on and the rest of the display disappears.  This is
absolutely no big deal unless it's a sign of some issue somewhere that has
yet to rear its ugly head!

Running latest (2.69) firmware.  I have a K3 and KX3 and have never noticed
this behaviour with them.

73 Stephen

G4SJP
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

While without reference to quantities I certainly agree with the sentiment,
but to be focused on a night light level power is kind of like swatting at
gnats while pidgeons are flying around in the kitchen.

Does your attic insulation need replacing. Are all of the light fixtures in
your house converted to LED. Are your refrigerators made in the current
decade. Are all of your windows gas-filled double pane. Are your water
heater and all the hot water piping in your house insulated. The list of
things that would bury that 6 watts by a couple of orders of magnitude is
quite long.

Then there is this other thing specific to CPU based equipment. And that is
maintaining signal states relative to other equipment. They get confused
when things go cold off and aren't brought back on in a particular
sequence.

It was always fun when the PC folks at SAS (which is buried in PCs) had to
take down a thousand or so functionally shared PCs for maintenance or
something. They had to be taken off in sequence and brought back in service
with a very complex and specifically ordered startup. Every now and then
that group had to work all hands on deck 48 hour weekends and took naps on
cots put out for the purpose. Those PCs were kept on their own AC mains
with a honking monster UPS that would power my house for weeks off the
grid. Power blips taking down a couple floors of PCs could put a building
full of very high paid advanced programmer types sitting on their hands for
a day or worse. They figured that out early and spent the money.

Your Elecraft gear has some related if not so killer issues on cold starts
that nevertheless result in tech support calls. Think Big E just trying to
keep the noise and confusion down on the TS lines, with a method that has
become pretty much standard practice.

Seems to me it's been a long time since TVs had batteries in them unless it
was a portable intended to be operated off mains. Paying for a service call
to replace a battery gone bad was drummed out long time back.

If you have a PC in the shack, do you do a shutdown when you leave? Or
leave it on to get OS and virus security updates and email?  Check the
power draw on that.

I'm trying to convince the wife to replace our 23 year old kitchen
refrigerator that still works perfectly.

I wish that my KPA's off state power draw was the prime offender at my
house :>).

73, Guy K2AV

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 10:46 PM Dave AD6A  wrote:

> I recently added a KPA500 kit for my home station. It went together just
> fine, and overall I love it.
>
> There is one thing about the way it works that bugs the engineer and
> environmentalist in me.
>
>
>
> Before I bought the PA, I thought I'd be able to turn it on/off entirely
> using the ON button on the front panel.
>
> I thought that maybe there was a supercap or backup battery that kept the
> button's electronics alive to perform the ON button function (like TV's
> have
> in them).
>
> However, it doesn't work like this. In order to turn the PA off completely,
> you have to turn off the main power switch on the rear panel.
>
>
>
> The front panel ON button powers up the PA from what looks like a cold
> state, however, my measurements are as follows:
>
>
>
> 1.  With the main power switch on the back panel turned OFF, the PA
> takes no power at all (0.0W)
> 2.  When you turn the main power switch on the back panel to ON, the PA
> draws 6.9W continuously from the 120V AC power supply
> 3.  When you press the front panel ON button, the PA turns "ON" and
> takes around 13W (measured) in STBY mode
>
>
>
> My home station line up (K3s, P3, 2x SP3, KPA500, KAT500) sits on a large
> operating desk with a shelf unit that I build above the station. My
> computer
> monitors sit on the shelf above the radios.
>
> There is only just enough height clearance (about 2.5") between the top of
> the KPA500 and the underside of the shelf to allow me to put my hand over
> the top of the PA to reach the main power switch.
>
> It's fiddly but I can do it, it's just that it's a major inconvenience not
> being able to turn the KPA500 truly off from the front panel.
>
>
>
> Why is the KPA500 designed this way?
>
> In all good conscience, I can't live with the PA consuming 7W all day,
> every
> day - that's incredibly wasteful.
>
> I suppose I could put a more-easily-reachable external AC power switch on
> the side of my shelf unit to cut power to the whole desk, but that'd be
> ugly.
>
> I'd prefer that either a) the KPA500's main power switch was on the front
> panel, or b) the power supply system was redesigned so it only takes a few
> microwatts when power is applied but the ON button is OFF (not pressed, or
> pressed an even number of times).
>
>
>
> Comments? Ideas?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
> Dave AD6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> __
> Elecraft 

Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[John Oppenheimer]

Wireman 553 uses a 19 strand Copper Clad Steal (CCS) conductor which
results with very thin copper cladding. 553 is skin saturated at about
15 MHz. The loss at 1.8 MHz is approximately 0.21 dB per 100 feet.

http://www.kn5l.net/wm553/

Using EZNEC and SimSmith for the antenna below results with 13.8 dB
transmission line loss. Slightly greater loss then Wes' calculations.

John KN5L

On 01/31/2017 04:12 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
> A 130' dipole, 60' high on 160 has a feed point Z of ~4.5 -j1200.  One 
> hundred 
> feet of Wireman 553 (typical ladderline) will transform this to ~7.5 +j16 at 
> the 
> input.  The total loss in this "low-loss" line is over 12 dB.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] Why no love for the 1khz CW filter?

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi Andy,

several replies giving you an ideas over here.
Refer to Jim, K9YC...it is short and clear.

I am recommending you to simply stay calm.
Turn your radio ON, sit and play...
Use it daily in different situation for few months
then you will be more familiar with radio and
all functions behavior and you will have better idea
what you really need.

Good luck and enjoy your K3!

73 - Petr, OK1RP
(K3/100 #778 since 2008)




-
http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Why-no-love-for-the-1khz-CW-filter-tp7626342p7626353.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] Why no love for the 1khz CW filter?

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,1/31/2017 6:07 PM, abulling...@comcast.net wrote:

I was thinking seriously of the 1 khz CW filter because I do a lot of rag 
chewing on 80 meter CW and I would think that filter would cut down the noise a 
bit


As others have noted, the K3 is not like older radios -- it gets its IF 
selectivity from DSP. You can set it anywhere you want. The plug-in 
filters are roofing filters -- they protect the DSP from getting blown 
away by big signals close to your frequency. You need them in contests 
and in DX pileups, but that's all. I use narrow CW filters like K2AV 
described for contesting. For everything else, the IF filtering provided 
by DSP is all you need.


73, Jim K9YC

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com

Re: [Elecraft] Why no love for the 1khz CW filter?

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Some of us deliberately operate with the roofing and DSP at the same
bandwidth, and with some care to get the skirts coincide. This provides the
maximum possible drop at the edges, quite useful in a crowded contest. I
want to hear equally well in a specific bandwidth, and then I want the
selectivity skirts to drop as close to straight down as possible.

Generally not needed for casual operation, and I will operate the casual
QSO's sometimes with the DSP bandwidth at 700 or 800 Hz just because it
"sounds better". and 1.8 kHz (the contesting SSB width) roofer behind it.
Get people too close and I just tighten the width back up until I don't
hear them any more. Generally people seem to give you 1 kHz spacing for
casual.

73, Guy K2AV

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 9:26 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Andy,
>
> For normal operating, you will not find the 1kHz filter any more
> beneficial than using the 2.7 (or 2.8) roofing filter.
> The ultimate selectivity is provided by the DSP bandwidth, and not the
> roofing filter.
>
> The reason for the more narrow roofing filter is to provide isolation from
> nearby strong signals that are within the roofing filter passband, but
> outside the DSP bandwidth.  If strong signals come into the K3 outside
> theDSP bandwidth, but inside the roofing filter bandwidth, they can cause
> AGC "pumping" and reduce the overall sensitivity of the K3 receiver as a
> result.
>
> If you are operating in contest situations, or trying to respond to DX
> stations who are 'working a pileup', that extra bit of roofing filter may
> be needed, but for more casual operation, save your money.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/31/2017 9:07 PM, abulling...@comcast.net wrote:
>
>> I just got my new (used) K3/10 in the mail yesterday and have been having
>> a blast with it. It came with the 2.8 SSB filter and the 400 hz CW filter
>> and I have been told by a couple friends on the air who also have K3s that
>> that’s all I need.
>>
>> But...nature abhors a vacuum. On my filter board. I was thinking
>> seriously of the 1 khz CW filter because I do a lot of rag chewing on 80
>> meter CW and I would think that filter would cut down the noise a bit and
>> the 500 hz 5 pole filter with the gentler sloping skirts and either the 200
>> or 250 for when things get really hairy. But maybe I’m off base here
>> because I see very little talk of the 1 khz filter. I would love to hear
>> thoughts on this.
>>
>> The guys are telling me forget all that and just get the KPA3A so they
>> can hear me better. Which I will do just to quell the griping but I notice
>> they are copying everything I send at 10 watts.
>>
>> I am looking at all the ideas you guys gave me a few days ago as well and
>> thanks a lot for the suggestions. I think this may be the most fun I’ve
>> ever had with a new rig. It’s just an amazing radio.
>>
>> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to k2av@gmail.com
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com