Re: [Elecraft] Decoding the Serial Output from a KX3

2018-07-29 Thread Mark Goldberg
I am definitely interested. I had asked if connecting the Aux bus might be
useful but did not get any response. This would be a good solution. I am
using the KX3 and KPA500 in a mobile installation, get about 220W which is
enough for now, but better integration would be nice. I have to manually
put the amp in standby and change the tune power on the KX3 to get the
KPA500 to switch bands, then jack the power back up and switch the amp to
operate. I have done multiple Arduino projects, so I have experience there.
I probably also want to integrate the screwdriver antenna control too
eventually.

73,

Mark
W7MLG

On Sun, Jul 29, 2018 at 6:12 PM, DGDrath  wrote:

> I have used an arduino to decode the serial output from a KX3 and develop
> the band signals used to switch a KPA500 linear. The interface has been
> working for many weeks. The interface may have utility with other linear
> amplifiers as well.
> If anyone is interested in details, let me know.
> Regards to all, DG Drath, N6AU, San Juan Island, WA
>
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report

2018-07-29 Thread kevinr

Good Evening,

   Band conditions were similar to the week before: quiet, medium QSB 
on 20 m, weak QSB on 40 m, and some intermittent QRN on 20 m. Reciprocal 
propagation was more common.  The heat was a problem, I was sticking to 
my desk.  So for the 40 m net I found a hand towel to use as a bearing.


   Hot weather out West means it's fire season.  When I looked at the 
satellite map this morning I could see the river valleys of Oregon 
filling up with smoke.  From the south where California is ablaze, to 
Idaho's fires, and then one in Oregon.  I may have missed a few in 
Washington.  The next few days are going to be hot and smoking.  I don't 
think there is any rain in any local forecast.



  On 14050.5 kHz at 2200z:
WM5F - Dwight - ID
K6XK - Roy - IA
K0DTJ - Brian - CA
K4JPN - Steve - GA
K4TO - Dave - KY
NR5NN - Jim - CA
N0TA - John - CO

  On 7045 kHz at z:
NR5NN - Jim - CA
K0DTJ - Brian - CA
K6PJV - Dale - CA
WM5F - Dwight - ID

   73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS


-


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 hum/buzz

2018-07-29 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
I run my amp on 240 VAC with the yellow tap as supplied from the 
factory.   No hum or buzz when operating 550 watts output.  Drive on 6M 
is 30 watts.  SWR is 1.2:1 or better.  Other bands the same.   The 
KAT500 memory is "trained" every 50 kHz on all band below 10M.    In 
fact with my ear against the amp, nothing is heard. FAN CTL is on 1.   
Other than the LED's flashing, I have no clue the amp is even active.   
Very satisfied with the results in all regards.


73

Bob, K4TAX

KPA500F s/n 3519


On 7/29/2018 6:28 PM, ANDY DURBIN wrote:

When I first started using my KPA500 I found the hum/buzz during high power CW 
operation to be intolerable.  Elecraft support sent me a paper on hum 
reduction, a longer transformer bolt, and additional rubber washers.  I did not 
use any of this new hardware but now have acceptable hum/buzz during TX.


I learned that hum/buzz is strongly related to PA current.  I first made a 
significant reduction in hum/buzz by changing the transformer tap from yellow 
to red.  This gave a high voltage below warning level at my highest line 
voltage.  A second significant decrease in hum/buzz was achieved by matching 
all antenna loads to better than 1.2:1 SWR.  Although the KPA500 is specified 
to accept loads of 1.5:1 SWR, the PA efficiency  is degraded and PA currents 
increase as the match become worse.   For bands where I use my KAT500 tuner I 
have manually selected L and C to gives a match better than 1.05:1.


Bottom line - if you don't like the KPA500 hum/buzz level consider changing the 
transformer tap and improving load matching.  Neither of these factors is mentioned in 
"KPA500 Application Note - Hum Mitigation.pdf".  I went from a hum/buzz level 
greater than fan speed 4 to less than fan speed 1.


73,

Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightweight and inexpensive remote control of my K3s

2018-07-29 Thread Peter W2IRT
Yep, I've seen the mini, but even that is large, plus quite expensive if memory 
serves. I'm looking for something that will be used for one weekend a year and 
maybe when I'm on vacation and something interesting happens to pop up or 
there's a 6m F2 opening, etc. I pack and travel extremely light (21" carry-on 
and a small laptop briefcase only quite often, and small/light being 
necessary). I like the idea of the remoterig boxes but do they also require the 
K3/0 or mini in addition? That's a show-stopper.

 - pjd


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred Jensen
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2018 8:10 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Lightweight and inexpensive remote control of my K3s

There are two flavors of K3/0's.  The K3/0 is the size of a K3 [but much 
lighter since it has no radio parts], the K3/0 mini is basically the 
same front panel without the radio parts or case for them.  The mini has 
a single D-sub connector on the back that handles all the RRC<-->K3 
connections.  You can use an external keyer, the keyer in the mini, or 
the keyer facility in the RRC.  Mic can go into the front or rear jacks. 
Makes a really nice control package for travel.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 7/29/2018 3:35 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> Once again this year I'm planning to visit friends over the Thanksgiving
> weekend. Unlike in the past, I won't be able to set up for CQWW-CW from where
> I'm staying. Instead, I'd like to remote back in to my home station.
>
> Last year I used RemoteHams software and N1MM+, and it worked OK as
> proof-of-concept, but I wasn't knocked out with the whole workflow. The 
> latency
> wasn't a big problem, but the lack of paddles was. The macros in N1MM+ were
> fine, but too often I wanted to send by hand, which I couldn't easily do with
> the RCFOrb client software. The server side software worked OK, but it's very
> finicky.
>
> I'd like a hardware solution, but not something as expensive or unwieldy as a
> K3/0. I'm thinking along the lines of something I can throw in a briefcase,
> connect to my laptop, and plug in headphones and paddles (or a mic, heavens
> forbid) and not have to rely on a dodgy piece of Windows software. Any 
> thoughts?
> I remember that the Remotehams guys had a hardware box but I've never known
> anybody who used it, and I'm not sure if RemoteRig's boxes are what I'm after
> either (don't they only work in contention with a K3/something?).
>
> -
> 73 and Good DX
> Peter, W2IRT
>
> President, North Jersey DX Association
>
> DXCC Card Checker
> Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau
>
>   
>
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> Elecraft mailing list
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>
> --
> This message has been scanned by E.F.A. Project and is believed to be clean.
>
>
>

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[Elecraft] Decoding the Serial Output from a KX3

2018-07-29 Thread DGDrath
I have used an arduino to decode the serial output from a KX3 and 
develop the band signals used to switch a KPA500 linear. The interface 
has been working for many weeks. The interface may have utility with 
other linear amplifiers as well.

If anyone is interested in details, let me know.
Regards to all, DG Drath, N6AU, San Juan Island, WA

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Re: [Elecraft] Genovation keypad & K3/K3S

2018-07-29 Thread Dave Cole (NK7Z)

Hello Chuck,

If you are referring to the keypad I used in making the 48 key macro 
launcher, I used the CP48 USBHID, as described in line 4 of the page 
located at:


https://www.nk7z.net/adding-external-keypad-k3/

There is a link to the device on that page as well.  Remember, this 
plugs into the P3/SVGA, not the K3 as you originally asked.


The only difference I see today, is the current version is version 2.0, 
while I used version 1.1.  I suspect this is just a software change, 
which will make no matter if so.  I have the keypad image to update the 
keypad which makes it P3 compatible on my site as well.


You will need to have the P3/SVGA to make this work.

73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z/NNR0DC)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Technical Specialist

On 07/29/2018 02:54 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

So I've been looking at the these keyboards on the sites.

I find the CP48 USB UHID and the CP48 USB VS and the CP48 DB9S
So the one I want is the CP48 UHID one?
Just to be sure...

Thanks,
Chuck
c-haw...@illinois.edu
Amateur Radio, KE9UW

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on 
behalf of Dave Cole (NK7Z) [d...@nk7z.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2018 10:23 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Genovation keypad & K3/K3S

Here is a complete how to, with software, and macro list:

https://www.nk7z.net/adding-external-keypad-k3/

I will be interested to see if a hub can be implemented.

73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z/NNR0DC)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Technical Specialist

On 07/29/2018 07:09 AM, Stefan von Baltz, DL1IAO wrote:

Taking the P3 discussion one step further:
Based on the positive experience of other K3/K3S users I have ordered a 
Genovation CP24 keypad to implement band buttons and change AGC settings on the 
fly. Now, as I understand the P3 cannot handle more than one USB device and if 
Elecraft ever adds mouse support to the P3 the Genovation keypad cannot be used 
at the same time.

Has someone succeeded to connect the Genovation or another keypad directly to 
the K3/K3S instead of the K-Pod?
If not, is there a chance this functionality can be added?

Maybe something like a A/B USB-switch to choose between a mouse or keypad in 
junction with the P3 could be a solution.


73,

Stefan DL1IAO, SA3CWW/SM9A


--
Stefan v. Baltz
dl1...@contesting.com
http://www.dl1iao.com





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Re: [Elecraft] Lightweight and inexpensive remote control of my K3s

2018-07-29 Thread Fred Jensen
There are two flavors of K3/0's.  The K3/0 is the size of a K3 [but much 
lighter since it has no radio parts], the K3/0 mini is basically the 
same front panel without the radio parts or case for them.  The mini has 
a single D-sub connector on the back that handles all the RRC<-->K3 
connections.  You can use an external keyer, the keyer in the mini, or 
the keyer facility in the RRC.  Mic can go into the front or rear jacks. 
Makes a really nice control package for travel.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 7/29/2018 3:35 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

Once again this year I'm planning to visit friends over the Thanksgiving
weekend. Unlike in the past, I won't be able to set up for CQWW-CW from where
I'm staying. Instead, I'd like to remote back in to my home station.

Last year I used RemoteHams software and N1MM+, and it worked OK as
proof-of-concept, but I wasn't knocked out with the whole workflow. The latency
wasn't a big problem, but the lack of paddles was. The macros in N1MM+ were
fine, but too often I wanted to send by hand, which I couldn't easily do with
the RCFOrb client software. The server side software worked OK, but it's very
finicky.

I'd like a hardware solution, but not something as expensive or unwieldy as a
K3/0. I'm thinking along the lines of something I can throw in a briefcase,
connect to my laptop, and plug in headphones and paddles (or a mic, heavens
forbid) and not have to rely on a dodgy piece of Windows software. Any thoughts?
I remember that the Remotehams guys had a hardware box but I've never known
anybody who used it, and I'm not sure if RemoteRig's boxes are what I'm after
either (don't they only work in contention with a K3/something?).

-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT

President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau

  


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[Elecraft] KPA500 hum/buzz

2018-07-29 Thread ANDY DURBIN
When I first started using my KPA500 I found the hum/buzz during high power CW 
operation to be intolerable.  Elecraft support sent me a paper on hum 
reduction, a longer transformer bolt, and additional rubber washers.  I did not 
use any of this new hardware but now have acceptable hum/buzz during TX.


I learned that hum/buzz is strongly related to PA current.  I first made a 
significant reduction in hum/buzz by changing the transformer tap from yellow 
to red.  This gave a high voltage below warning level at my highest line 
voltage.  A second significant decrease in hum/buzz was achieved by matching 
all antenna loads to better than 1.2:1 SWR.  Although the KPA500 is specified 
to accept loads of 1.5:1 SWR, the PA efficiency  is degraded and PA currents 
increase as the match become worse.   For bands where I use my KAT500 tuner I 
have manually selected L and C to gives a match better than 1.05:1.


Bottom line - if you don't like the KPA500 hum/buzz level consider changing the 
transformer tap and improving load matching.  Neither of these factors is 
mentioned in "KPA500 Application Note - Hum Mitigation.pdf".  I went from a 
hum/buzz level greater than fan speed 4 to less than fan speed 1.


73,

Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Lightweight and inexpensive remote control of my K3s

2018-07-29 Thread tomb18
Try winkey. They have a remote solution. 73 Tom 


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Peter Dougherty  Date: 
2018-07-29  6:35 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
[Elecraft] Lightweight and inexpensive remote control of my K3s 
Once again this year I'm planning to visit friends over the Thanksgiving
weekend. Unlike in the past, I won't be able to set up for CQWW-CW from where
I'm staying. Instead, I'd like to remote back in to my home station. 

Last year I used RemoteHams software and N1MM+, and it worked OK as
proof-of-concept, but I wasn't knocked out with the whole workflow. The latency
wasn't a big problem, but the lack of paddles was. The macros in N1MM+ were
fine, but too often I wanted to send by hand, which I couldn't easily do with
the RCFOrb client software. The server side software worked OK, but it's very
finicky. 

I'd like a hardware solution, but not something as expensive or unwieldy as a
K3/0. I'm thinking along the lines of something I can throw in a briefcase,
connect to my laptop, and plug in headphones and paddles (or a mic, heavens
forbid) and not have to rely on a dodgy piece of Windows software. Any thoughts?
I remember that the Remotehams guys had a hardware box but I've never known
anybody who used it, and I'm not sure if RemoteRig's boxes are what I'm after
either (don't they only work in contention with a K3/something?).

-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT

President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau

 

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[Elecraft] Lightweight and inexpensive remote control of my K3s

2018-07-29 Thread Peter Dougherty
Once again this year I'm planning to visit friends over the Thanksgiving
weekend. Unlike in the past, I won't be able to set up for CQWW-CW from where
I'm staying. Instead, I'd like to remote back in to my home station. 

Last year I used RemoteHams software and N1MM+, and it worked OK as
proof-of-concept, but I wasn't knocked out with the whole workflow. The latency
wasn't a big problem, but the lack of paddles was. The macros in N1MM+ were
fine, but too often I wanted to send by hand, which I couldn't easily do with
the RCFOrb client software. The server side software worked OK, but it's very
finicky. 

I'd like a hardware solution, but not something as expensive or unwieldy as a
K3/0. I'm thinking along the lines of something I can throw in a briefcase,
connect to my laptop, and plug in headphones and paddles (or a mic, heavens
forbid) and not have to rely on a dodgy piece of Windows software. Any thoughts?
I remember that the Remotehams guys had a hardware box but I've never known
anybody who used it, and I'm not sure if RemoteRig's boxes are what I'm after
either (don't they only work in contention with a K3/something?).

-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT

President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau

 

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[Elecraft] K1 and K2 extra parts for sale

2018-07-29 Thread Michael Raskin
K1 and K2 extra parts for sale:

K1 Top Cover – has small 3/8” hole drilled in rear lip – otherwise, in 
excellent condition with no scratches – $12.00

K1 Front Panel – some wear from felt washer around main dial opening 
(unnoticeable when knob installed) – otherwise in excellent condition with no 
scratches – $5.00

K1 Bezel for front panel with 4 screws – minor small scratch on corner – $1.00

K1 Bottom Cover, Screened – small scratches near key jack and antenna jack 
openings – $16.00

K1 Left Side Panel – small paint chips around two of the screw holes (not 
really seen when screw inserted) – $8.00

K1 Two-Band 30M/15M Board – excellent condition – $20.00

K1 Two-Band 40M/20M Board – excellent condition – $20.00

K1 Tuning Knob – clean – $2.00

BNC Right-Angle Antenna Jack for K1 – brand-new – $2.00

Small Black Knob (2-screw model) for either K1 or K2 – $1.00

KN2B Noise Blanker for K2 – latest model with SMD – completely assembled and in 
excellent condition – comes with extra mounting hardware and extra 8-pin 
connector – ready to install in your K2 – $35.00

K2 Right Side Panel – very good condition – $5.00

K2 Left Side Panel – very good condition – $5.00

I take PayPay – shipping is extra but will be what it actually costs.

Mike, W4UM
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Re: [Elecraft] Genovation keypad & K3/K3S

2018-07-29 Thread hawley, charles j jr
So I've been looking at the these keyboards on the sites. 

I find the CP48 USB UHID and the CP48 USB VS and the CP48 DB9S
So the one I want is the CP48 UHID one?
Just to be sure...

Thanks,
Chuck
c-haw...@illinois.edu
Amateur Radio, KE9UW

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on 
behalf of Dave Cole (NK7Z) [d...@nk7z.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2018 10:23 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Genovation keypad & K3/K3S

Here is a complete how to, with software, and macro list:

https://www.nk7z.net/adding-external-keypad-k3/

I will be interested to see if a hub can be implemented.

73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z/NNR0DC)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Technical Specialist

On 07/29/2018 07:09 AM, Stefan von Baltz, DL1IAO wrote:
> Taking the P3 discussion one step further:
> Based on the positive experience of other K3/K3S users I have ordered a 
> Genovation CP24 keypad to implement band buttons and change AGC settings on 
> the fly. Now, as I understand the P3 cannot handle more than one USB device 
> and if Elecraft ever adds mouse support to the P3 the Genovation keypad 
> cannot be used at the same time.
>
> Has someone succeeded to connect the Genovation or another keypad directly to 
> the K3/K3S instead of the K-Pod?
> If not, is there a chance this functionality can be added?
>
> Maybe something like a A/B USB-switch to choose between a mouse or keypad in 
> junction with the P3 could be a solution.
>
>
> 73,
>
> Stefan DL1IAO, SA3CWW/SM9A
>
>
> --
> Stefan v. Baltz
> dl1...@contesting.com
> http://www.dl1iao.com
>
>
>
>
>
> __
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[Elecraft] K3 Twins - RemoteRig

2018-07-29 Thread Robie Elms
All,

I assisting a friend get setup using the K3 mini.  RemoteRig RR-1258 and
have a question.  I want to make changes to the microphone setup on K3 mini
and move the active mic input from Rear Panel to the Front Panel.  On a
regular K3 i'd tap MENU and use MIC SEL to choose FPL.  My question is with
the K3 mini connected to the RR-1258 if I follow this process am i changing
the K3 Mini, the Remote K3 or both?If this process changes the remote
K3, how do I change only the K3 mini?

Robie - AJ4F
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[Elecraft] "The Elecraft Story" - other tech books

2018-07-29 Thread john
Wow, an action movie!  I can't wait.

John KK9A


From: Wayne Burdick n6kr 
Date: Sun Jul 29 

HBO already bought the rights. And just so you know, it's Bruce Willis and
Kevin Costner :)

Wayne 
(Somewhere in the field, armed only with a KX2, making stuff up as I go
along)

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Re: [Elecraft] "The Elecraft Story" - other tech books

2018-07-29 Thread Jim Rhodes
Ought to be a nice mini-series!


On Sun, Jul 29, 2018 at 10:37 AM Wayne Burdick  wrote:

>
> > Barry  wrote:
> >
> > I'm waiting for the movie.  Jason Alexander as Eric and Jeremy Piven as
> Wayne
>
> HBO already bought the rights. And just so you know, it’s Bruce Willis and
> Kevin Costner :)
>
> Wayne
> (Somewhere in the field, armed only with a KX2, making stuff up as I go
> along)
> __
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-- 
Jim K0XU
j...@rhodesend.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Catalina island with KX2: spoiled by super-low noise floor

2018-07-29 Thread Chip Stratton
Same thing on many (not all!) of those SOTA peaks. I keep giving 599's to
stations that I know would only be 339's to me at home.

Chip
AE5KA

On Sun, Jul 29, 2018 at 11:25 AM Christopher Hoover 
wrote:

> I did much the same with my KX2 on Santa Cruz Island (part of Channel
> Islands, 20 miles off the coast of Ventura) two weeks ago.   Definitely
> recommended.
>
> 73 de AI6KG
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 28, 2018 at 10:21 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
>
> > Last week my family and I went to Avalon, Catalina Island, off the coast
> > of southern California. What an awesome place! It feels like a coastal
> > tourist paradise in another country, except that it’s just 26 miles from
> > Long Beach. Definitely a bucket-list item.
> >
> > To recover from two days of gawking at beach scenery and tapping generous
> > libations, I set off on a 6 mile solo hike to take in the view from 1500
> > feet. And to sneak in a little stealth radio op.
> >
> > From downtown Avalon I walked to the Wrigley Memorial, then zig-zagged up
> > the Garden to Sky trail for 1.2 miles, where I was rewarded with a vista
> to
> > the north that includes another of the Channel Islands. At this point I
> > picked up the jeep road for another half mile, heading east, ascending
> even
> > further to a gazebo overlooking the Hermit Gulch campground far below.
> (The
> > trail down from here is very steep; if I ever do it again, I’ll go the
> > opposite direction.)
> >
> > This gazebo was the perfect spot to break the KX2 out of its tiny ES40
> bag
> > and deploy the whip, which took all of 30 seconds.
> >
> > Aside from the obvious (gorgeous WX, killer view, and the joy of running
> > 10 watts hand-held to an AX1 whip on 15/17/20), I was blessed with both
> > acoustic and RF noise floors so low that I was reminded of a minor
> tinnitus
> > condition. No wind, no other humans, the occasional cry of a hawk, and
> the
> > radio equivalent of a peaceful, easy feeling. I could hear stations that
> > were merely thinking about transmitting.
> >
> > It would be tempting to weave a tall tale about DX worked from this
> > idyllic overlook. Truth is I just listened for awhile, marveling at how
> > sparkling clean everything sounded without the usual three coats of RF
> > grunge we often suffer at home. The noise drops with any trip away from
> > civilization, of course, but this was exceptional.
> >
> > It’s yet another reason to get out of the shack. And why we keep
> designing
> > rigs like the KX2.
> >
> > 73,
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] Bad KIO3B Board

2018-07-29 Thread kstover
Have you called Elecraft?

R. Kevin StoverAC0H

ARRL, FISTS, SKCC, NAQCC.
"If it doesn't work the first time you push the button it won't work the
20th.Just stop."

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of William Liporace
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2018 6:46 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Bad KIO3B Board

I definitely have a bad KIO3B board (no band data output, no USB data or
prompting when lugging into a PC). Since I still have the original KIO3
board, can I replace just the digital board? Do I have to replace
everything?? I really would like to know what went bad. I want to make sure
the radio is OK.

TNX Will WC2L

--
William Liporace WC2L
http://www.wc2l.com or http://dxc.wc2l.com AR-Cluster Node  telnet
dxc.wc2l.com or 144.93 MHz w...@wc2l.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Ngen Wideband Noise Generator Mini Module Kit Problem

2018-07-29 Thread Scott

Don,  (and everyone else who responded)

Thanks to everyone for the quick response.  For the record I read the 
manual pdf several times and had figured out the orientation of the 
MAR-1, it's just the soldering instructions that did not compute, 
"solder to the pads below"... the pads below did not look like pads but 
mere silk screen.


After I saw a picture of it soldered (thanks Chuck), I reexamined the 
PCB.  What looked like silk screen for the MAR-1 the 20+ times that I 
looked at the PCB before now looked like metal pads.  The minimal 
difference in the color of the silkscreen and the metal pad was my 
confusion.  I guess my color vision is starting to go.


At any rate, it is now clear how to solder it to the board.  Thanks 
again to everyone.


Now to solder it and get the spare back to Elecraft.

Scott
AD5HS

On 7/28/2018 11:03 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Scott,

Those 4 "ARMS" of the MMIC are the leads.  Do NOT break the body of the 
MMIC, you will destroy it.
Find the one lead that is cut at an angle (that is the input) and orient 
it toward the center of the board.  If you cannot see the angled end, it 
is the lead closest to the dot on the body.  If there is a hole in the 
board, the body of the MMIC goes into that hole.
If there is no hole, orient the MMIC so the angled lead (or dot) is 
toward the center of the board.
Solder those "ARMS" to the 4 solder pads below.  If there is no hole for 
the body you have to press the leads down with a screwdriver to make 
contact with the solder pads, then do it.


No wires are necessary - just fill the holes on the solder pads with 
solder and solder the leads flat onto the board.


73,
Don W3FPR



On 7/28/2018 8:26 PM, Scott wrote:
Arrgh.  Where to begin.  All was going well until "installing" U1 
MAR-1 MMIC.


Initial inventory of said kit was missing U1 MAR-1 MMIC.  FWIW, there 
are no part numbers and no pictures in the pdf manual.  So I emailed 
parts@elecraft and they sent me E600080 MAR-1 MMIC in a plastic bag. 
Upon inspection of this part during the build 2 weeks later it did not 
look like a solderable part, there were no leads for the thru holes.  
It appeared to be just plastic with a raised "+" on one side and two 
holes on one end.  So I emailed parts@elecraft and said there has to 
be a mistake/problem and could they please check again and send the 
correct part that was solderable.  I received the second E600080 MAR-1 
MMIC. Meet the new boss same as the old boss... the parts were 
identical. Upon closer inspection under magnification there is a 
"part" located inside the "+".  So cut it out and it is a very small 
black cylinder with 4 "arms" 90deg apart.  If this is the correct part 
then I'll send back the first one they sent me.


But here is the problem.  The Ngen PCB Rev B (which is the PCB that I 
have) has 4 "thru holes" for installing U1 MAR1 MMIC and there are no 
leads from E600080 to solder it to the PCB.  There are 4 "arms" but it 
is unclear to me how these "arms" are to be soldered to the board. 
Unless I solder wires in the 4 thru holes in the PCB and thence to the 
"arms" of E600080 I have no idea how to solder this part to the PCB. 
The pdf manual does not say anything about soldering wires into the 
thru holes and thence to the "arms".

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740057_N-Gen_Manual_Rev_D.pdf

I'm hoping someone else has built this module kit lately and figured 
it out or Elecraft is going to have to give me some guidance on how to 
solder this part to the board because it sure is not obvious to me.


Scott
AD5HS


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Re: [Elecraft] "The Elecraft Story" - other tech books

2018-07-29 Thread Wayne Burdick

> Barry  wrote:
> 
> I'm waiting for the movie.  Jason Alexander as Eric and Jeremy Piven as 
> Wayne

HBO already bought the rights. And just so you know, it’s Bruce Willis and 
Kevin Costner :)

Wayne 
(Somewhere in the field, armed only with a KX2, making stuff up as I go 
along)
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Re: [Elecraft] Genovation keypad & K3/K3S

2018-07-29 Thread Dave Cole (NK7Z)

Sorry,
Mis read your question, my date connects to the P3, not the K3.

73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z/NNR0DC)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Technical Specialist

On 07/29/2018 07:09 AM, Stefan von Baltz, DL1IAO wrote:

Taking the P3 discussion one step further:
Based on the positive experience of other K3/K3S users I have ordered a 
Genovation CP24 keypad to implement band buttons and change AGC settings on the 
fly. Now, as I understand the P3 cannot handle more than one USB device and if 
Elecraft ever adds mouse support to the P3 the Genovation keypad cannot be used 
at the same time.

Has someone succeeded to connect the Genovation or another keypad directly to 
the K3/K3S instead of the K-Pod?
If not, is there a chance this functionality can be added?

Maybe something like a A/B USB-switch to choose between a mouse or keypad in 
junction with the P3 could be a solution.


73,

Stefan DL1IAO, SA3CWW/SM9A


--
Stefan v. Baltz
dl1...@contesting.com
http://www.dl1iao.com





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Re: [Elecraft] Genovation keypad & K3/K3S

2018-07-29 Thread Dave Cole (NK7Z)

Here is a complete how to, with software, and macro list:

https://www.nk7z.net/adding-external-keypad-k3/

I will be interested to see if a hub can be implemented.

73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z/NNR0DC)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Technical Specialist

On 07/29/2018 07:09 AM, Stefan von Baltz, DL1IAO wrote:

Taking the P3 discussion one step further:
Based on the positive experience of other K3/K3S users I have ordered a 
Genovation CP24 keypad to implement band buttons and change AGC settings on the 
fly. Now, as I understand the P3 cannot handle more than one USB device and if 
Elecraft ever adds mouse support to the P3 the Genovation keypad cannot be used 
at the same time.

Has someone succeeded to connect the Genovation or another keypad directly to 
the K3/K3S instead of the K-Pod?
If not, is there a chance this functionality can be added?

Maybe something like a A/B USB-switch to choose between a mouse or keypad in 
junction with the P3 could be a solution.


73,

Stefan DL1IAO, SA3CWW/SM9A


--
Stefan v. Baltz
dl1...@contesting.com
http://www.dl1iao.com





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Re: [Elecraft] Catalina island with KX2: spoiled by super-low noise floor

2018-07-29 Thread Christopher Hoover
I did much the same with my KX2 on Santa Cruz Island (part of Channel
Islands, 20 miles off the coast of Ventura) two weeks ago.   Definitely
recommended.

73 de AI6KG


On Sat, Jul 28, 2018 at 10:21 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> Last week my family and I went to Avalon, Catalina Island, off the coast
> of southern California. What an awesome place! It feels like a coastal
> tourist paradise in another country, except that it’s just 26 miles from
> Long Beach. Definitely a bucket-list item.
>
> To recover from two days of gawking at beach scenery and tapping generous
> libations, I set off on a 6 mile solo hike to take in the view from 1500
> feet. And to sneak in a little stealth radio op.
>
> From downtown Avalon I walked to the Wrigley Memorial, then zig-zagged up
> the Garden to Sky trail for 1.2 miles, where I was rewarded with a vista to
> the north that includes another of the Channel Islands. At this point I
> picked up the jeep road for another half mile, heading east, ascending even
> further to a gazebo overlooking the Hermit Gulch campground far below. (The
> trail down from here is very steep; if I ever do it again, I’ll go the
> opposite direction.)
>
> This gazebo was the perfect spot to break the KX2 out of its tiny ES40 bag
> and deploy the whip, which took all of 30 seconds.
>
> Aside from the obvious (gorgeous WX, killer view, and the joy of running
> 10 watts hand-held to an AX1 whip on 15/17/20), I was blessed with both
> acoustic and RF noise floors so low that I was reminded of a minor tinnitus
> condition. No wind, no other humans, the occasional cry of a hawk, and the
> radio equivalent of a peaceful, easy feeling. I could hear stations that
> were merely thinking about transmitting.
>
> It would be tempting to weave a tall tale about DX worked from this
> idyllic overlook. Truth is I just listened for awhile, marveling at how
> sparkling clean everything sounded without the usual three coats of RF
> grunge we often suffer at home. The noise drops with any trip away from
> civilization, of course, but this was exceptional.
>
> It’s yet another reason to get out of the shack. And why we keep designing
> rigs like the KX2.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Top

2018-07-29 Thread Doug Person
Yes - I have an extra one.  I'll have to dig through my storage room - 
but I know I have one.


Doug -- KJ0F


On 7/29/2018 5:23 AM, William Robbins wrote:

Does anyone have a K2 cabinet top excess to their needs?

B ill

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 time and date

2018-07-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

I am glad you were successful.  Yes, setting the time on the KAT2 is 
made intentionally difficult by the firmware.  Follow the instructions 
exactly (accounting for the delays between button pressses and action), 
and you will be successful.  A dose of patience may be required, but it 
works.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/29/2018 10:23 AM, Bill Heybruck wrote:
got my K2 back from Don (RTC Fixed plus other things) and wanted to set 
clock to UTC.


so I got the manual out an could not make it work. so I knew he set the 
date so I kept trying, Finally..


I found out what I did wrong. or did not do right.wait.

here is the procedure in the users guide:Setting the Date and Time

Turn the K2 on. Tap M E N U , then tap D I S P L A Y to switch to the 
secondary menu, and locate the


R T C menu entry. E D I T the parameter and change it to O N using B A N 
D + or B A N D - . (This enables the


clock feature.) Tap M E N U twice to return to the frequency display.

To set the real-time clock you must set the date first, then the time, 
as described below. (The KAF2


firmware enforces this sequence to help prevent accidental time changes. 
If you attempt to set the time first,


or if you switch between time and date display more than once, any 
changes will be disabled.)


1. Turn the K2 off, wait a few seconds, then turn it back on. If you 
plan to use WWV or some other on-


air time announcement, tune it in now. If you're setting the clock to 
UTC, don't forget to use the UTC


date if it's different from the local date.

2.Tap D I S P L A Y . After about 1 second, you should see a time 
display (H H . M M . S S ). The time may


not be changing at this point, and may be set to 0 1 . 0 1 . 0 1 or to a 
random time.


Note: The receiver is not muted when time is displayed, so you may hear 
microcontroller-generated noise. If the noise is


objectionable, turn down the AF gain when leaving the clock displayed 
for long periods of time.


3. Hold B A N D +and B A N D -together to switch to date display (M M - 
D D - Y Y or D D - M M - Y Y3).


4.Tapping B A N D + or B A N D - will now change the day, and holding B 
A N D + or B A N D -will


change the month. To change the year: If the month is set to 1 2, each 
subsequent hold of


B A N D +will increment the year.

If the month is set to 1 , each subsequent hold of B A N D -  decrements 
the


year. Once the desired year is selected, you can set the month by moving 
it back in the other direction.


5. With the date now set, hold B A N D  and B A N D - together to switch 
back to time display.


6.Tapping B A N D + or B A N D  will now change the minute, and

holding B A N D + or  B A N D  will change the hour. Every change resets 
seconds to


0 0, so you can sync to a time reference if desired.

7. To disable further changes, switch to date display, then back to time 
display. Then move the VFO knob


or tap  D I S P L A Y twice to return to the normal frequency


*Here is what i found*

Tap BAND+ or BAND- to set Day ( there is about a 1-2 sec delay between 
tap and change!)


change the day, even if you put it back before trying to set time

Hold BAND+or BAND- to set month (1-2 sec delay after depression)

to set year,

if year must increase,set month to 12 then,

Hold BAND+ to bump year up.

If year must decrease, setmonth to 1 then

Hold BAND- to decrease year

\once date is set Hold BAND+ andBAND- to display time.

Tap BAND+ or BAND- to set minute (1-2 sec delay after tap)

Press and) Hold BAND+or BAND- to set hour (1-2 sec delay after tap)when 
you change either minute or hour the seconds reset to zero so wait for 
your reference to hit 58 or 59 seconds before you make the last change.


Now tap DISPLAY twice to return to frequency display and your date and 
time are set!


What messed me up was the delay after the tap or tap and hold.

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[Elecraft] K2 time and date

2018-07-29 Thread Bill Heybruck
got my K2 back from Don (RTC Fixed plus other things) and wanted to set 
clock to UTC.


so I got the manual out an could not make it work. so I knew he set the 
date so I kept trying, Finally..


I found out what I did wrong. or did not do right.wait.

here is the procedure in the users guide:Setting the Date and Time

Turn the K2 on. Tap M E N U , then tap D I S P L A Y to switch to the 
secondary menu, and locate the


R T C menu entry. E D I T the parameter and change it to O N using B A N 
D + or B A N D - . (This enables the


clock feature.) Tap M E N U twice to return to the frequency display.

To set the real-time clock you must set the date first, then the time, 
as described below. (The KAF2


firmware enforces this sequence to help prevent accidental time changes. 
If you attempt to set the time first,


or if you switch between time and date display more than once, any 
changes will be disabled.)


1. Turn the K2 off, wait a few seconds, then turn it back on. If you 
plan to use WWV or some other on-


air time announcement, tune it in now. If you're setting the clock to 
UTC, don't forget to use the UTC


date if it's different from the local date.

2.Tap D I S P L A Y . After about 1 second, you should see a time 
display (H H . M M . S S ). The time may


not be changing at this point, and may be set to 0 1 . 0 1 . 0 1 or to a 
random time.


Note: The receiver is not muted when time is displayed, so you may hear 
microcontroller-generated noise. If the noise is


objectionable, turn down the AF gain when leaving the clock displayed 
for long periods of time.


3. Hold B A N D +and B A N D -together to switch to date display (M M - 
D D - Y Y or D D - M M - Y Y3).


4.Tapping B A N D + or B A N D - will now change the day, and holding B 
A N D + or B A N D -will


change the month. To change the year: If the month is set to 1 2, each 
subsequent hold of


B A N D +will increment the year.

If the month is set to 1 , each subsequent hold of B A N D -  decrements the

year. Once the desired year is selected, you can set the month by moving 
it back in the other direction.


5. With the date now set, hold B A N D  and B A N D - together to switch 
back to time display.


6.Tapping B A N D + or B A N D  will now change the minute, and

holding B A N D + or  B A N D  will change the hour. Every change resets 
seconds to


0 0, so you can sync to a time reference if desired.

7. To disable further changes, switch to date display, then back to time 
display. Then move the VFO knob


or tap  D I S P L A Y twice to return to the normal frequency


*Here is what i found*

Tap BAND+ or BAND- to set Day ( there is about a 1-2 sec delay between 
tap and change!)


change the day, even if you put it back before trying to set time

Hold BAND+or BAND- to set month (1-2 sec delay after depression)

to set year,

if year must increase,set month to 12 then,

Hold BAND+ to bump year up.

If year must decrease, setmonth to 1 then

Hold BAND- to decrease year

\once date is set Hold BAND+ andBAND- to display time.

Tap BAND+ or BAND- to set minute (1-2 sec delay after tap)

Press and) Hold BAND+or BAND- to set hour (1-2 sec delay after tap)when 
you change either minute or hour the seconds reset to zero so wait for 
your reference to hit 58 or 59 seconds before you make the last change.


Now tap DISPLAY twice to return to frequency display and your date and 
time are set!


What messed me up was the delay after the tap or tap and hold.

Bill W4edn



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[Elecraft] Genovation keypad & K3/K3S

2018-07-29 Thread Stefan von Baltz, DL1IAO
Taking the P3 discussion one step further:
Based on the positive experience of other K3/K3S users I have ordered a 
Genovation CP24 keypad to implement band buttons and change AGC settings on the 
fly. Now, as I understand the P3 cannot handle more than one USB device and if 
Elecraft ever adds mouse support to the P3 the Genovation keypad cannot be used 
at the same time.

Has someone succeeded to connect the Genovation or another keypad directly to 
the K3/K3S instead of the K-Pod?
If not, is there a chance this functionality can be added?

Maybe something like a A/B USB-switch to choose between a mouse or keypad in 
junction with the P3 could be a solution.


73,

Stefan DL1IAO, SA3CWW/SM9A


--
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dl1...@contesting.com
http://www.dl1iao.com





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[Elecraft] USB mouse support for P3SVGA -- please don't neglect the scroll wheel

2018-07-29 Thread Stefan von Baltz, DL1IAO
N6TV writes:

> When Elecraft adds mouse support to the P3SVGA, please use the scroll wheel
> for fine tuning after the click, as one does on an SDR.  You're can almost
> never tune in someone perfectly just by clicking, and you shouldn’t need
> two hands to tune in a station, one on the VFO knob, and one on the mouse.

> Like the P3 VFO „markers," all a mouse needs to support is *horizontal
> movement* of a single vertical line when you move the mouse, not a fancy
> mouse pointer that goes up and down.  A vertical line is sufficient.  We
> only need to click on signals on the waterfall, not „buttons" or "menus".

Thanks for the reminder, I forgot to mention this. Yes, no mouse pointer is 
necessary.

> I understand that modern Icom radios (IC-7610, IC-7851) already support
> click-to-tune on their waterfall displays using a USB mouse or touch-screen
> tap, but they ignore the scroll wheel completely, making them much less
> useful.  Elecraft can and should do better.

Yes, we used two IC-7851s at WRTC and the scope worked as you described. 
Besides you could use a right-click on the mouse to listen on a frequency and 
return to your CQ-frequency upon releasing the button. Yes, the fine-tune 
functionality is missing at ICOM. During practical operation one hand was 
controlling the mouse and the other hand the main-VFO for fine-tuning. Room for 
improvements!

> If Elecraft needs to „monetize" this to make it happen, *I would gladly pay
> $50 for a P3 firmware upgrade that provides P3SVGA mouse support.*

I would be willing to pay for it as well.

While playing with my P3 with SVGA-option for a while, now, I realize that I 
sometimes would prefer a slightly faster waterfall speed. On the other hand I 
never use the scope display above the waterfall. So maybe some CPU power could 
be rearranged to optimize the waterfall.

Thanks everybody for a good P3 discussion!


73,

Stefan DL1IAO, SA3CWW/SM9A


--
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dl1...@contesting.com
http://www.dl1iao.com





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Re: [Elecraft] Bad KIO3B Board

2018-07-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Will,

You will have to replace all 3 boards.  Just reverse the installation 
instructions.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/29/2018 7:45 AM, William Liporace wrote:
I definitely have a bad KIO3B board (no band data output, no USB data or 
prompting when lugging into a PC). Since I still have the original KIO3 
board, can I replace just the digital board? Do I have to replace 
everything?? I really would like to know what went bad. I want to make 
sure the radio is OK.

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Re: [Elecraft] Ngen Wideband Noise Generator Mini Module Kit Problem

2018-07-29 Thread brian

Scott,
https://www.minicircuits.com/pdfs/MAR-1+.pdf
gives a part layout.

My recollection is to just lay the arms down on the pads and solder them 
like a SMT part.  Caution:  Part is static sensitive.


73 de Brian/K3KO

On 7/29/2018 0:26 AM, Scott wrote:

Arrgh.  Where to begin.  All was going well until "installing" U1 MAR-1
MMIC.

Initial inventory of said kit was missing U1 MAR-1 MMIC.  FWIW, there
are no part numbers and no pictures in the pdf manual.  So I emailed
parts@elecraft and they sent me E600080 MAR-1 MMIC in a plastic bag.
Upon inspection of this part during the build 2 weeks later it did not
look like a solderable part, there were no leads for the thru holes.  It
appeared to be just plastic with a raised "+" on one side and two holes
on one end.  So I emailed parts@elecraft and said there has to be a
mistake/problem and could they please check again and send the correct
part that was solderable.  I received the second E600080 MAR-1 MMIC.
Meet the new boss same as the old boss... the parts were identical. Upon
closer inspection under magnification there is a "part" located inside
the "+".  So cut it out and it is a very small black cylinder with 4
"arms" 90deg apart.  If this is the correct part then I'll send back the
first one they sent me.

But here is the problem.  The Ngen PCB Rev B (which is the PCB that I
have) has 4 "thru holes" for installing U1 MAR1 MMIC and there are no
leads from E600080 to solder it to the PCB.  There are 4 "arms" but it
is unclear to me how these "arms" are to be soldered to the board.
Unless I solder wires in the 4 thru holes in the PCB and thence to the
"arms" of E600080 I have no idea how to solder this part to the PCB. The
pdf manual does not say anything about soldering wires into the thru
holes and thence to the "arms".
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740057_N-Gen_Manual_Rev_D.pdf

I'm hoping someone else has built this module kit lately and figured it
out or Elecraft is going to have to give me some guidance on how to
solder this part to the board because it sure is not obvious to me.

Scott
AD5HS


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[Elecraft] Bad KIO3B Board

2018-07-29 Thread William Liporace
I definitely have a bad KIO3B board (no band data output, no USB data or 
prompting when lugging into a PC). Since I still have the original KIO3 
board, can I replace just the digital board? Do I have to replace 
everything?? I really would like to know what went bad. I want to make 
sure the radio is OK.


TNX Will WC2L

--
William Liporace WC2L
http://www.wc2l.com or http://dxc.wc2l.com
AR-Cluster Node  telnet dxc.wc2l.com or 144.93 MHz
w...@wc2l.com

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[Elecraft] K2 Top

2018-07-29 Thread William Robbins

Does anyone have a K2 cabinet top excess to their needs?

B ill

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[Elecraft] WTB KAT3

2018-07-29 Thread ok1rk

Hi folks!

looking for used but 100% working KAT3 ATU for my old K3/100.

Does anybody already upgraded with KAT3A and no more need an old stuff?

TNX for your offers with shipping to OK

Money thru PayPal

73 David OK1RK 
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Re: [Elecraft] "The Elecraft Story" - other tech books

2018-07-29 Thread Barry
I'm waiting for the movie.  Jason Alexander as Eric and Jeremy Piven as Wayne 
:-)
Barry W2UP



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