[Elecraft] Auto-spot, tuning aids, and the arcane history of CW pitch-matching
Elecraft's auto-spot and CWT features -- available on the K3/K3S/KX2/KX3 -- are very useful tools for CW operators, especially those not experienced in pitch-matching. Here's a bit of history on where these features came from and how they work. CW Spotting History When a station finishes a CQ in CW mode, the operator faces the challenge of copying someone who's calling back. Callers may be weak or obscured by QRM; the op can usually deal with both problems by narrowing the filter passband. However, callers may also be off frequency. A calling station may be using a wide filter passband themselves, not attempting to carefully match their VFO frequency to that of the CQing station. The result may be no QSO, even when propagation is excellent. In the Days of Yore, a frequency offset between stations didn't always matter. Sometimes both stations used crystal-controlled transmitters, so operators had to patient tune around after calling CQ. As a 14-year-old novice I embraced this operating style for a year or so, armed with a dozen or so crusty FT-243 crystals for my Heath HW-16. I nearly wore out the socket swapping them in and out. After calling CQ, it was not unusual to find a caller 30 or more kHz away! (Away from "where" was a poorly answered question, as my Hallicrafters receiver dial wasn't exactly digital.) Fortunately I soon acquired an outboard VFO, a life-changing addition to my station. Jealous friends doubled up on their paper routes to pay for their own. Girls suddenly paid more attention to me. These days virtually everyone has a VFO, along with the expectation that they won't have to tune theirs very far, if at all, to tune you in. Not only that, they're stable and well calibrated, not like the beasts we had to skillfully tame. Progress! Manual Spotting (SPOT switch) Once I had a VFO I quickly learned to do *manual* pitch matching. Older rigs did't provide a way to do that explicitly, so you'd improvise. Basically, you had to coerce a very weak signal out of your own transmitter, say by turning on only the driver, then tune the transmit VFO until you could hear your signal on your own receiver -- superimposed on the calling station, at the same pitch. This is what we call spotting. Of course spotting is a lot more convenient these days, as many rigs include a SPOT switch. This function is easy for a modern transceiver designer to add, because the radio's firmware is quite capable of turning on only the CW sidetone without transmitting. That is the purpose of the SPOT switch on all Elecraft transceivers. Tap SPOT, and you'll hear your sidetone pitch. Most people can do a good job of adjusting the VFO such that the CQing station's pitch matches that of the SPOT tone. This ensures that when you call them, you'll be close to their own frequency. Tuning Aids: Filtering (APF), PLL (NE567), and Spectral (CWT) Since not everyone has an inherent musical ear, various hardware-enhanced means of tuning in CW signals have been developed. The simplest method is to just narrow your receiver passband so much that, if you can hear a station calling CQ at all, you're guaranteed to be "right on top of him." This assumes that your transceiver enforces alignment between its transmit and receive pitch...true of all Elecraft gear. Narrow filtering has gone through decades of evolution. Some filters were based on op-amps (active filters), while others were based on LC filtering, conscripting humongous toroidal cores scavenged from telco equipment. I acquired my stash of these from a haphazard mound of old switching racks, decaying in an abandoned aircraft hanger on the Bermuda U.S. Navy base. (That irresistible junk pile was also a mother load of TO5 transistors, multi-pound electrolytic capacitors, and tetanus, but that's another story.) Typically the toroids were 88 millihenries -- a huge value for a high-Q inductor, permitting resonance in the low audio range. Later, such filters migrated to digital signal processing, in the form of switched-capacitor ICs or DSPs. You can still buy these switched-capacitor chips, like the MF10, from various sources. It's instructive to roll your own tunable filter, just for fun. Whether passive or active, the goal of filtering is typically to achieve a narrow passband, say 250 Hz or less. With DSP, nearly perfect filters with "brick wall" passbands can be created. But these have the disadvantage of ringing like a bell when pinged by a CW signal or noise, making copy difficult. One solution incorporated into the K-line and KX-line is the Audio Peaking Filter (APF), which provides a 30-Hz bandwidth at -3 dB, but broad skirts, preventing ringing from occurring. As our customers will attest, APF works like magic on weak signals obscured by noise. Another forerunner to DSP techniques was the audio phase-locked-loop, using inexpensive ICs like the legendary LM567. When locked on a signal that matched its cen
Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build
Bill, My real advantage is that I no longer have to read in detail to follow the assembly steps, but if you are doing it for the first time, do read carefully and completely as you are working. My first one (Field Test) took me 34 hours. There is no shame in taking 60 hours or more to build a K2 - proceed at your own comfortable pace, it is not a race, and going faster often leads to extended troubleshooting or an expensive repair because of build errors. I can no longer work as fast because of hand tremors. It has gotten bad enough that I have decided not to take on any new build or repair jobs. I will be continuing to provide support on this reflector. Yes, it is a part of getting older! 73, Don W3FPR On 1/21/2019 6:24 PM, Bill Johnson wrote: I think so. Wayne thought I may have a record for the shortest build @ 26 hours. But I think Don would easily beat that with all his experience and skills. We have both concurred, however, that with the time that has passed neither of us have the speed of the 1990's. Such is aging. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build
I think so. Wayne thought I may have a record for the shortest build @ 26 hours. But I think Don would easily beat that with all his experience and skills. We have both concurred, however, that with the time that has passed neither of us have the speed of the 1990's. Such is aging. 73, Bill K9YEQ https://wrj-tech.com/ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On Behalf Of Dauer, Edward Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 12:37 PM To: hawley, charles j jr Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build I wonder if 11 years is a record? Ted, KN1CBR On 1/21/19, 9:03 AM, "hawley, charles j jr" wrote: I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010. There was an addition to the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3. Chuck KE9UW Sent from my iPhone, cjack > On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote: > > Hello Bruce -- > > I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is other than the transverters. I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons later. My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot problems if any emerge. Having the options in would have complicated that for me. So I built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, testing as I went along. > > The rework isn't difficult. And if you enjoy building a kit like this - which you will - doing that is just more of the fun. If you don't already have one, buy a solder sucker. The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is removed. Hakko sells one for about 18 USD. > > Ted, KN1CBR > > > -- > >Message: 7 >Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 + >From: Bruce McCartney >To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build >Message-ID: >Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8 > >I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and now have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build. > >My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the options as completed? > >From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 before the addition of some options. It seems a shame to undo work. > >Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued. > >So, do I build first and add options later? I'd be pleased to hear from other K2 builders. > >I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 hours from ordering to delivery! What service! > >Thank you. > >Bruce > >GM4BDJ > >-- > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to c-haw...@illinois.edu __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k9...@live.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3 swr anomoly
Please excuse me if this information has been given already. I spoke to Wayne N6KR at Dayton a few years ago about the KAT3. To clear all memories in the KAT3: While in Config:KAT3, tap the "CLR" button on the K3 panel. (This is per band) Tune KAT3 into a dummy load - each band to re-establish memory. 73, Jim Douglas K2ZF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build
Bruce, I built mine in 2001, and as far as I remember I had the same situation with the options. Since you have the options, sneak-preview into them and read what and how the parts have to be removed. Then you get an idea how to install them in a way you can removed them without putting harm to the main pcb. One obvious measure is to not push down the resistors or jumpers to the pcb, rather leave some space. Happy building! Gernot DF5RF K2 #2328 (+KAT,KBAT, KSB,KNB,KDSP,KXV60,K160RX,my own buffered IF-out with a Softrock RX Lite attached, my own Keyout) Am 20.01.2019 um 19:32 schrieb Bruce McCartney via Elecraft: I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build. My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the options as completed? From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 before the addition of some options. It seems a shame to undo work. Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued. So, do I build first and add options later? I'd be pleased to hear from other K2 builders. I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 hours from ordering to delivery! What service! Thank you. Bruce GM4BDJ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to g...@gmx.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 SWR Anomaly
Hi Mike, Have not heard from Support yet. But this is an interesting discussion and I am learning some things from the group. I had not kept up with the differences between the KAT3 and the KAT3A, but it would seem that’s at the center of the issue I have. My K3 is S/N 02977, and I have the KAT3 tuner. Apparently the KAT3 is not really bypassed in the BYPASS position. From reading earlier posts, the KAT3 supposedly sets itself for what it thinks is a 50 ohm match when in the BYPASS position. It was suggested by Joe, W4TV, that the user could enable the tuner, tune into a dummy load and then bypass the tuner, and that process would reset the bypass settings.That seems to have worked for me on 10 meters, but not on 40 meters. So part of my original post has been answered, but here’s what remains: 1. With my particular KAT3, I am not sure why the recal of bypass settings per W4TV does not work on 40 meters. 2. If the KAT3 is not truly being bypassed, can there be some unexpected results when using the K3 with the KPA1500, such as power overshoot? 3. Am I ok to enable the KAT3 in my K3 and also use the tuner in the KPA1500? Otherwise I am having to readjust the K3 power out setting as I change frequency on 40 meters, to keep from overdriving the KPA1500. It would appear that I might have some unknown tuner circuit issue when bypassing the tuner on 40 meters due to whatever is still in the RF path, or perhaps even the faulty trap component Mike mentioned. Elecraft – do I need to replace the KAT3 with the KAT3A to get rid of this problem, and eliminate the need to readjust power up when using my KPA1500? I appreciate all the responses so far! --Ed— Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Mike Wetzel Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 1:33 PM To: ed.n...@gmail.com Subject: K3 SWR Ed, I’m sure you have heard from Elecraft Support on this but just in case. I had a very similar problem on 40 meter a couple of years ago. It turned out to be a faulty trap component on a nearly vacant board near the ant terminals. The trap is not needed I removed a cap and all has been fine ever since. Mike W9RE I think what I am seeing is related to your experience. I ran through some additional testing. I see perhaps some slight differences between ANT1 and ANT2 positions as far as SWR readings, but nothing significant, at least on 40 meters. I do now see something I?m even more puzzled over. While collecting SWR readings into a dummy load on 10 meters, I initially did see a high (2.0:1) reading on the K3 meter. I switched in the K3 tuner, and brought the SWR down to 1:1. But when I then bypassed the tuner, the low 1:1 SWR remained. This was true for either ANT1 or ANT2. I really don?t understand that. So back to 40 meters, where I first noticed the high SWR anomaly. I thought I would try the tuner again, and then bypass it, to see if SWR would stay low on the K3 meter as it did on 10 meters. It did not. So I still have the anomaly on 40 meters, and it is the same on either ANT1 or ANT2 positions. To summarize: 1. SWR using a dummy load on 40 meters remains constant using an external LP-100A meter, but varies greatly using the K3 meter. As you tune up in frequency on the 40 meter band, the SWR on the K3 meter rises to almost 3:1, and the K3 output power drops back significantly. 2. Antenna tuner settings appear to ?stick? on 10 meters, even when the tuner is bypassed. I believe some users, assuming there are others that have K3s which would exhibit this behavior, may not have noticed this anomaly. I do believe it may be responsible for what some users have noticed when using their K3 with an amp such as the KPA1500. That is, power overshoot. I suspect the K3, at least for me on 40 meters, is folding back power in response to a false SWR reading, and this can be seen in how the KPA1500 amp correspondingly drops back in power as the user transmits. That is perhaps why (again, for my situation) I see the power overshoot only on 40 meters when using my KPA1500. --Ed? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] MCU Load Issues
You may also have to throw the switch on the KIO3B Main board if you only have the USB cable. Very old boards did not have this switch, in that case you will need the RS232 interface to the RJ-45 jack and set RS232 to 38400. See https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3S/Manuals%20Downloads/E740280%20KIO3B%20Installation%20Rev%20A3.pdf Keith WE6R __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] SWR on 40M band
Check the 8.215 trap on the KAT3 ATU. It is C10 and L10 on the older units. They can burn as they are on the ant side of the ATU. We eliminated that trap on the newer KAT3A (not needed). In repairs we pull the coil and put a wire jumper in its place. Keith WE6R __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build
I wonder if 11 years is a record? Ted, KN1CBR On 1/21/19, 9:03 AM, "hawley, charles j jr" wrote: I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010. There was an addition to the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3. Chuck KE9UW Sent from my iPhone, cjack > On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote: > > Hello Bruce -- > > I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is other than the transverters. I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons later. My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot problems if any emerge. Having the options in would have complicated that for me. So I built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, testing as I went along. > > The rework isn't difficult. And if you enjoy building a kit like this - which you will - doing that is just more of the fun. If you don't already have one, buy a solder sucker. The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is removed. Hakko sells one for about 18 USD. > > Ted, KN1CBR > > > -- > >Message: 7 >Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 + >From: Bruce McCartney >To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build >Message-ID: >Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8 > >I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and now have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build. > >My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the options as completed? > >From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 before the addition of some options. It seems a shame to undo work. > >Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued. > >So, do I build first and add options later? I'd be pleased to hear from other K2 builders. > >I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 hours from ordering to delivery! What service! > >Thank you. > >Bruce > >GM4BDJ > >-- > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to c-haw...@illinois.edu __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 SWR Anomaly
Looking at the KAT3 schematic indicates that in bypass all the relays are set such that all the series inductors are individually short circuited and all the capacitors are open circuit. This potentially introduces strays due to the short circuit inductors, relays and pcb tracks still in the RF path. I believe it is mentioned on the Elecraft web site that this is the reason for the KAT3A having a "true bypass" or words to that effect. It was suggested that you could tune out the strays by tuning the ATU into a dummy load rather than simply putting it in bypass. I've just checked my KAT3 action by tuning each band via the Ant1 port into an Oak Hills Research 100W dummy load and comparing the result with simply bypassing it. All the way from 160m to 10m both states "Auto" and "Bypass" read 1.0-1 On 6m both read 1.1-1. I normally have the KAT3 in "bypass" given that much of the time my K3 is looking at the input circuit of an Acom 1000 or the antennas are already an acceptable match. There were clearly some long forgotten tuning solutions still sitting in the atu memory which were tuned out whilst feeding the dummy load. Regards, Mike VP8NO On 21/01/2019 12:40, Grant Youngman wrote: The revised KAT3A has a hard bypass with relays. The KAT3 does a “soft” bypass by placing the tuning network in some kind of neutral position. I don’t know what the KAT3 actually does to achieve this, but is it possible this is somehow related to the anomaly you are seeing? With the KAT3 in “neutral” (whatever that actually means), since the SWR bridge sits between the KPA3 output and the KAT3 input, maybe that’s something to look at — or at least get more info from Elecraft about how it works and if that might be related. Grant NQ5T K3 #2091 KX3 #8342 On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:34 AM, Ed G wrote: Hi Barry, I think what I am seeing is related to your experience. I ran through some additional testing. I see perhaps some slight differences between ANT1 and ANT2 positions as far as SWR readings, but nothing significant, at least on 40 meters. I do now see something I’m even more puzzled over. While collecting SWR readings into a dummy load on 10 meters, I initially did see a high (2.0:1) reading on the K3 meter. I switched in the K3 tuner, and brought the SWR down to 1:1. But when I then bypassed the tuner, the low 1:1 SWR remained. This was true for either ANT1 or ANT2. I really don’t understand that. So back to 40 meters, where I first noticed the high SWR anomaly. I thought I would try the tuner again, and then bypass it, to see if SWR would stay low on the K3 meter as it did on 10 meters. It did not. So I still have the anomaly on 40 meters, and it is the same on either ANT1 or ANT2 positions. To summarize: 1. SWR using a dummy load on 40 meters remains constant using an external LP-100A meter, but varies greatly using the K3 meter. As you tune up in frequency on the 40 meter band, the SWR on the K3 meter rises to almost 3:1, and the K3 output power drops back significantly. 2. Antenna tuner settings appear to “stick” on 10 meters, even when the tuner is bypassed. I believe some users, assuming there are others that have K3s which would exhibit this behavior, may not have noticed this anomaly. I do believe it may be responsible for what some users have noticed when using their K3 with an amp such as the KPA1500. That is, power overshoot. I suspect the K3, at least for me on 40 meters, is folding back power in response to a false SWR reading, and this can be seen in how the KPA1500 amp correspondingly drops back in power as the user transmits. That is perhaps why (again, for my situation) I see the power overshoot only on 40 meters when using my KPA1500. --Ed— __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build
I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010. There was an addition to the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3. Chuck KE9UW Sent from my iPhone, cjack > On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote: > > Hello Bruce -- > > I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is other > than the transverters. I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be > finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons > later. My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot > problems if any emerge. Having the options in would have complicated that > for me. So I built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, > testing as I went along. > > The rework isn't difficult. And if you enjoy building a kit like this - > which you will - doing that is just more of the fun. If you don't already > have one, buy a solder sucker. The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are > inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is > removed. Hakko sells one for about 18 USD. > > Ted, KN1CBR > > > -- > >Message: 7 >Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 + >From: Bruce McCartney >To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build >Message-ID: >Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8 > >I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and now > have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to > build. > >My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in > the options as completed? > >From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed > K2 before the addition of some options. It seems a shame to undo work. > >Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution > to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued. > >So, do I build first and add options later? I'd be pleased to hear from > other K2 builders. > >I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland > - 46 hours from ordering to delivery! What service! > >Thank you. > >Bruce > >GM4BDJ > >-- > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to c-haw...@illinois.edu __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 SWR Anomaly
The revised KAT3A has a hard bypass with relays. The KAT3 does a “soft” bypass by placing the tuning network in some kind of neutral position. I don’t know what the KAT3 actually does to achieve this, but is it possible this is somehow related to the anomaly you are seeing? With the KAT3 in “neutral” (whatever that actually means), since the SWR bridge sits between the KPA3 output and the KAT3 input, maybe that’s something to look at — or at least get more info from Elecraft about how it works and if that might be related. Grant NQ5T K3 #2091 KX3 #8342 > On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:34 AM, Ed G wrote: > > Hi Barry, > I think what I am seeing is related to your experience. I ran through > some additional testing. I see perhaps some slight differences between ANT1 > and ANT2 positions as far as SWR readings, but nothing significant, at least > on 40 meters. > I do now see something I’m even more puzzled over. While collecting SWR > readings into a dummy load on 10 meters, I initially did see a high (2.0:1) > reading on the K3 meter. I switched in the K3 tuner, and brought the SWR down > to 1:1. But when I then bypassed the tuner, the low 1:1 SWR remained. This > was true for either ANT1 or ANT2. I really don’t understand that. > So back to 40 meters, where I first noticed the high SWR anomaly. I > thought I would try the tuner again, and then bypass it, to see if SWR would > stay low on the K3 meter as it did on 10 meters. It did not. So I still > have the anomaly on 40 meters, and it is the same on either ANT1 or ANT2 > positions. > To summarize: > 1. SWR using a dummy load on 40 meters remains constant using an external > LP-100A meter, but varies greatly using the K3 meter. As you tune up in > frequency on the 40 meter band, the SWR on the K3 meter rises to almost 3:1, > and the K3 output power drops back significantly. > 2. Antenna tuner settings appear to “stick” on 10 meters, even when the tuner > is bypassed. > > I believe some users, assuming there are others that have K3s which would > exhibit this behavior, may not have noticed this anomaly. I do believe it may > be responsible for what some users have noticed when using their K3 with an > amp such as the KPA1500. That is, power overshoot. I suspect the K3, at least > for me on 40 meters, is folding back power in response to a false SWR > reading, and this can be seen in how the KPA1500 amp correspondingly drops > back in power as the user transmits. That is perhaps why (again, for my > situation) I see the power overshoot only on 40 meters when using my KPA1500. > --Ed— > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 loose 3K Ohm/3 watt resistor
"The leads of the resistor look like they are bent at the end as if it was soldered to surface of the board" I suspect you are right. I looked at the (perhaps intentionally) out of focus FCC photos and I see a wire ended resistor bridging surface mount pads in the lower left of the "Bottom View" image. It does't look like your wandering part but it does seem to show that construction technique was used. Andy, k3wyc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] New K2 Build
Hello Bruce -- I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is other than the transverters. I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons later. My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot problems if any emerge. Having the options in would have complicated that for me. So I built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, testing as I went along. The rework isn't difficult. And if you enjoy building a kit like this - which you will - doing that is just more of the fun. If you don't already have one, buy a solder sucker. The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is removed. Hakko sells one for about 18 USD. Ted, KN1CBR -- Message: 7 Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 + From: Bruce McCartney To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and now have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build. My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the options as completed? From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 before the addition of some options. It seems a shame to undo work. Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued. So, do I build first and add options later? I'd be pleased to hear from other K2 builders. I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 hours from ordering to delivery! What service! Thank you. Bruce GM4BDJ -- __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 SWR Anomaly
Have you done a TX GAIN CAL procedure? I have found this often solves quirky problems that have cropped up with my K3 over the past 10 years. Also, if you are getting power overshoot, check to be sure your MIC or LINE IN is not set higher than 4 bars with the 5th bar flashing on the ALC meter. 73 Eric WD6DBM On Mon, Jan 21, 2019, 5:36 AM Ed G Hi Barry, > I think what I am seeing is related to your experience. I ran through > some additional testing. I see perhaps some slight differences between ANT1 > and ANT2 positions as far as SWR readings, but nothing significant, at > least on 40 meters... > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3 SWR Anomaly
Hi Barry, I think what I am seeing is related to your experience. I ran through some additional testing. I see perhaps some slight differences between ANT1 and ANT2 positions as far as SWR readings, but nothing significant, at least on 40 meters. I do now see something I’m even more puzzled over. While collecting SWR readings into a dummy load on 10 meters, I initially did see a high (2.0:1) reading on the K3 meter. I switched in the K3 tuner, and brought the SWR down to 1:1. But when I then bypassed the tuner, the low 1:1 SWR remained. This was true for either ANT1 or ANT2. I really don’t understand that. So back to 40 meters, where I first noticed the high SWR anomaly. I thought I would try the tuner again, and then bypass it, to see if SWR would stay low on the K3 meter as it did on 10 meters. It did not. So I still have the anomaly on 40 meters, and it is the same on either ANT1 or ANT2 positions. To summarize: 1. SWR using a dummy load on 40 meters remains constant using an external LP-100A meter, but varies greatly using the K3 meter. As you tune up in frequency on the 40 meter band, the SWR on the K3 meter rises to almost 3:1, and the K3 output power drops back significantly. 2. Antenna tuner settings appear to “stick” on 10 meters, even when the tuner is bypassed. I believe some users, assuming there are others that have K3s which would exhibit this behavior, may not have noticed this anomaly. I do believe it may be responsible for what some users have noticed when using their K3 with an amp such as the KPA1500. That is, power overshoot. I suspect the K3, at least for me on 40 meters, is folding back power in response to a false SWR reading, and this can be seen in how the KPA1500 amp correspondingly drops back in power as the user transmits. That is perhaps why (again, for my situation) I see the power overshoot only on 40 meters when using my KPA1500. --Ed— Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Barry Simpson Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 1:51 AM To: Ed G; Elecraft Mailing List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 SWR Question3 Hi Ed I recall having had a similar experience with my K3 some years ago, although it wasn't on 40m. I think it was either 10 or 12m and related to an antenna connected to the ANT 1 socket. Eventually I tracked it down to having previously had an antenna connected to the ANT 2 socket and having used the ATU in the K3 to tune it at that time although I think that there was no antenna on ANT 2 when the problem cropped up. I believe that the feed through between ANT 1 and 2 sockets was sufficient to give a false SWR reading on the K3. It might be worth investigating this and possibly swapping over your antenna/dummy load to the ANT 2 socket to see what happens. I think I eventually just retuned the ATU on ANT 2 with a dummy load in place and the problem went away. Good luck. Barry VK2BJ On Mon, 21 Jan 2019 at 04:17, Ed G wrote: Hello, My K3 is exhibiting some SWR meter behavior I don’t quite understand. To eliminate any possible effects of antennas or cabling, I hooked a Palstar DL2K dummy load directly to the K3 antenna connector. All bands except 40 meters seem fine, with SWR reading as you would expect with a dummy load. The anomaly I am seeing is that SWR as shown on the K3 meter looks fine at 7.01 MHz (approx. 1.2:1), but as I go up in frequency, the SWR as shown on the K3 meter rises. When I transmit into the dummy load on 7.298 MHz, the K3 meter reads almost 3:1. I can switch in the K3 internal tuner and bring the SWR down to 1:1. I also tried an older Cantenna dummy load with the same puzzling results. Any ideas as to what may be causing this 40 meter only problem? I first noticed this problem during NAQP SSB when using my Steppir, which of course retunes itself as I change frequency. When going from the low part of the phone band to the high part on 40 meters, I noticed SWR increasing on the K3 meter, even though it was not increasing and stayed at 1.2:1 on my inline LP-100A. The K3 also started to fold back power. That prompted me to do the further testing with the dummy load as I discussed above. --Ed— Sent from Mail for Windows 10 --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to vk...@optusnet.com.au __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help sup
