Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Jim Brown]

On 6/4/2020 7:55 PM, Phil Kane wrote:

It's also FAR easier than 3M mastic tape to open up if you need to
change something.
That's what they make X-acto knives for. 


Right. Of course -- that works with Rescue Tape, but it doesn't work at 
all with 3M Mastic tapes -- they are a real PITA to remove.



I never reuse "taken off" tape.


Of course not. The difference is the time it takes. I unwrap the Scotch 
88 outer layer, then slit along the length of cable and the Rescue Tape 
peels off in a few seconds! I considered myself doing well to get Mastic 
off in 15 minutes! The mastic I'm talking about is 3M 2228. The reason 
for unwrapping the 88 is so that I don't damage the cable's outer jacket.


I just ordered a box of Scotch 130C to have on hand.

Thanks and 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 fan mod done - MUCH better

[Dave]

Yeah PSU fan noise is on par with the fans in the Flex 6700 now. PC is almost 
completely silent. Thinking of locating the amp, radio, and 4O3A 2x8 antenna 
switch in my garage in a half height server cabinet. Then I could hear myself 
think, but maybe I don’t want to hear myself ;-)

The two chip resistor mod on filter board was fun. I have experience with 
surface mount rework so no big deal. One resistor was the size of “16” onthe 
date on a penny (2016).

Other mods - they installed zener diodes tonthe gates on the LDMOS devices to 
protect against overdrive. That is one thing the LDMOS devices do not like.

Mybamp uses a pair of NXP 1K50H devices which I feel are more rugged than 
BLF188 and 189s. I heard early amps used the 188s but no proof of that.

Have fun! 

73
Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2020, at 1:10 AM, Eric Norris  wrote:
> 
> 
> I had completely forgotten that I did this mod, and the two resistors mod.  
> That, and the piece of grit or whatever that was stuck in one of the PSU fans 
> making it scream like a banshee, took the KPA1500 PSU fan noise from being 
> intolerable to unnoticable.  
> 
> Good times!  Ain't it grand!  
> 
> 73 Eric WD6DBM
> 
>> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020, 4:59 PM  wrote:
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Received the new LED board for my KPA1500 power supply. Easy to swap out,
>> six plugs and two screws. You can move one plug at a time to the new board
>> so there is no chance of screwing anything up. To put the screws back in I
>> suggest a Phillips screwdriver with magnetic tip. It took more time to
>> remove the 16 screws from the top cover than to swap the board.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> THANK YOU Elecraft!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 73
>> 
>> Dave wo2x
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 fan mod done - MUCH better

[Eric Norris]

I had completely forgotten that I did this mod, and the two resistors mod.
That, and the piece of grit or whatever that was stuck in one of the PSU
fans making it scream like a banshee, took the KPA1500 PSU fan noise from
being intolerable to unnoticable.

Good times!  Ain't it grand!

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020, 4:59 PM  wrote:

> Hi All,
>
>
>
> Received the new LED board for my KPA1500 power supply. Easy to swap out,
> six plugs and two screws. You can move one plug at a time to the new board
> so there is no chance of screwing anything up. To put the screws back in I
> suggest a Phillips screwdriver with magnetic tip. It took more time to
> remove the 16 screws from the top cover than to swap the board.
>
>
>
> THANK YOU Elecraft!
>
>
>
> 73
>
> Dave wo2x
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 fan mod done - MUCH better

[Ken K6MR]

You didn’t happen to notice the value of the changed resistor did you?  The fan 
resistor is the big one.

Ken K6MR

From: rocke...@gmail.com
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 17:00
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 fan mod done - MUCH better

Hi All,



Received the new LED board for my KPA1500 power supply. Easy to swap out,
six plugs and two screws. You can move one plug at a time to the new board
so there is no chance of screwing anything up. To put the screws back in I
suggest a Phillips screwdriver with magnetic tip. It took more time to
remove the 16 screws from the top cover than to swap the board.



THANK YOU Elecraft!



73

Dave wo2x







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Re: [Elecraft] Self-fusing liquid electrical tape

[Ed Tanton]

I should have mentioned that. I strip 5 or 6 inches of insulation. That was 
why I cleaned the top of the ground rod and sprayed it with electrical 
lubricant. I used a stainless steel hose clamp to hold the stripped wires 
against the ground rod at each end of the stripped wire portions. The next 
part is what I wrote about to start with.

Ed Tanton
Marietta, GA


On 6/3/2020 10:31 PM, Ed Tanton wrote:


I mention all this as a response to the question about the use of liquid
tape.
I did all this working on the ground rods and radials connected under my
HyGain HyTower.


What do you use to attach the ground wire(s) to the ground rod?  Buckeyes?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402


From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest

Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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[Elecraft] WTB: K2

[ROBIN J KIDD]

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Re: [Elecraft] Self-fusing liquid electrical tape

[Phil Kane]

On 6/3/2020 10:31 PM, Ed Tanton wrote:

> I mention all this as a response to the question about the use of liquid
> tape.
> I did all this working on the ground rods and radials connected under my
> HyGain HyTower.

What do you use to attach the ground wire(s) to the ground rod?  Buckeyes?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Phil Kane]

On 6/4/2020 7:59 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

> I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my
> hand... ;)

I have to introduce you to my cousin the eye surgeon who can teach you
to avoid things like that!  :)   One of the stunts that he does to show
off is to peel the red skin off an apple and leave the green under-skin
intact.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Phil Kane]

On 6/3/2020 9:17 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

> It's also FAR easier than 3M mastic tape to open up if you need to
> change something.

That's what they make X-acto knives for.  I never reuse "taken off" tape.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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[Elecraft] KAT100 No Longer Available, was KPA100 No Longer Available

[Neil Zampella]

Sorry for the confusion ... wasn't thinking when I typed out the subject
line.  Thinking KAT100 typed KPA100, then sent it  :(

Neil, KN3ILZ

On 6/4/2020 3:32 AM, Neil Zampella wrote:

Hi all,

I saw that the K2 100w tuner accessory, the KAT100  is no longer
available and discontinued.   I'm guessing its due to the permanent
unavailability of a through part.    I'm wondering if Wayne or Eric
could comment on this, and if there's any suitable replacement for that
tuner?

Neil, KN3ILZ


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com



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[Elecraft] K3 Items For Sale

[ockmrzr]

I have some spares for the K3 available after recent upgrades.  "Let's Make
a Deal"

 

1x - KXV3A K3 Transverter Interface module

4x - KSYN3 K3 Synthesizer module

 

If interested, let me know via direct email, n...@arrl.net
 

 

73 de Bruce, N7TY

Yuma, AZ

www.qsl.net/n7ty  

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Re: [Elecraft] Trying RF Gain Calibration with XG3 but fails

[Wes]

No, RF Gain calibration.

On 6/4/2020 2:48 PM, Nr4c wrote:

Oh, “S” Meter Cal

Sorry!

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


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[Elecraft] KPA1500 fan mod done - MUCH better

[rocketnj]

Hi All,

 

Received the new LED board for my KPA1500 power supply. Easy to swap out,
six plugs and two screws. You can move one plug at a time to the new board
so there is no chance of screwing anything up. To put the screws back in I
suggest a Phillips screwdriver with magnetic tip. It took more time to
remove the 16 screws from the top cover than to swap the board.

 

THANK YOU Elecraft!

 

73

Dave wo2x

 

 

 

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[Elecraft] KX3/PX3/KXPA100 for sale

[richard gilley]

HI,
I have a KX3 and PX3 with a KXPA100 available as a complete set up.  
Purchased September 2018.
All interconnect cables, manuals, and two F.  Cady publications. I am a CW op 
only, set up in shack only, never traveled.

For photos, details please contact me at "richgilley...@gmail.com 
."

I am asking $2500.00, includes shipping USPS, CONUS.  Bank check preferred.

Thank you for your attention.

R Gilley
AD1G
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Re: [Elecraft] Trying RF Gain Calibration with XG3 but fails

[Randy Diddel]

Hi,

Bah! Someone got me confused. I WAS trying to do the RF Gain (not RX or TX). 
Anyway. There is a bug with the Mac version of the K3 Utility.  I dusted of my 
old POS Windows laptop, fired it up, updated the K3 Utility and waited the 
hour+ it needed to update Windows 10. I was able to perform calibration just 
fine. 

I would be willing to work with the Utility devs from Elecraft to try and 
troubleshoot the Mac client issue if someone happens to be on this list and 
reads this. I would prefer to use a Mac for 100% of my Ham needs.

73

K5RHD

/randy

> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:56 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
> 
> Sorry,
> 
> Typo, I am trying to do the RX (not RF) calibration.
> 
> My bad.  I tried a different USB cable and my K3s Utility was out of date so 
> I updated that but there was no change. Still have the same error.
> 
> /randy
> 
>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:45 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
>> 
>> Exactly what are you trying to do?
>> 
>> The RF GAIN Calibration is done with the transmitter and a “Dummy” load. No 
>> need for the XG3.  Look in manual around page 52. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ...nr4c. bill
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello again,
>>> 
>>> I sent this message a few days ago but did not get a single response. I 
>>> have emailed Elecraft support but due to COVID-19, I am not sure when I 
>>> will get a response from them. So here is my message again:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Anyone?
>>> 
>>> I still have not been able to figure this out.
>>> 
>>> 73
>>> 
>>> K5RHD
>>> 
>>> /randy
>>> 
 On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:42 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
 
 Hi all,
 
 I am trying to do the RF Calibration test using my new XG3.  I am getting 
 the error below.  I have all firmware up to date on the K3s and the XG3. I 
 even tried reloading the firmware on the K3s just to see if that worked. 
 Of course turning it off and back on again did nothing either.  I DO have 
 the SUB RX on this rig as well, ideas?
 
 TIA and 73,
 
 K5RHD
 /Randy
 
 
 Elecraft K3 Utility for OS X Revision 1.18.6.28
 OS X Version 10.15.4
 K3 MCU revision 05.67. RS-232 speed 38400 bps.
 Turning sub receiver off
 Unlinking VFOs
 Selecting Antenna 1
 Setting mode to CW
 Turning squelch off
 Turning Preamplifier off
 Turning Attenuator off
 Setting Filter Width to 100 Hertz
 Setting RF Gain to maximum
 Turning CW Tune on
 Writing factory default calibration data
 Writing calibration table to DSP
 Delay 100 ms
 K3 did not respond to DSP command 
 !bc20007401350137023802390139033C033A023C033B033D043E053E063D063C083F093C0C3C0D3E0E3D103F0F3C0F400E3F0F3F103E143F1A401F41223F273F2D41333F3E404A4150403B3F113E0244013E003F0041003F003F0140004000400141033D064313412041243F18400B410742033C0442014100EE007451236D5338;
 Power cycle K3 and try calibration again.
 
 
 
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Trying RF Gain Calibration with XG3 but fails

[Randy Diddel]

Sorry,

Typo, I am trying to do the RX (not RF) calibration.

My bad.  I tried a different USB cable and my K3s Utility was out of date so I 
updated that but there was no change. Still have the same error.

/randy

> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:45 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> Exactly what are you trying to do?
> 
> The RF GAIN Calibration is done with the transmitter and a “Dummy” load. No 
> need for the XG3.  Look in manual around page 52. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello again,
>> 
>> I sent this message a few days ago but did not get a single response. I have 
>> emailed Elecraft support but due to COVID-19, I am not sure when I will get 
>> a response from them. So here is my message again:
>> 
>> 
>> Anyone?
>> 
>> I still have not been able to figure this out.
>> 
>> 73
>> 
>> K5RHD
>> 
>> /randy
>> 
>>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:42 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi all,
>>> 
>>> I am trying to do the RF Calibration test using my new XG3.  I am getting 
>>> the error below.  I have all firmware up to date on the K3s and the XG3. I 
>>> even tried reloading the firmware on the K3s just to see if that worked. Of 
>>> course turning it off and back on again did nothing either.  I DO have the 
>>> SUB RX on this rig as well, ideas?
>>> 
>>> TIA and 73,
>>> 
>>> K5RHD
>>> /Randy
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Elecraft K3 Utility for OS X Revision 1.18.6.28
>>> OS X Version 10.15.4
>>> K3 MCU revision 05.67. RS-232 speed 38400 bps.
>>> Turning sub receiver off
>>> Unlinking VFOs
>>> Selecting Antenna 1
>>> Setting mode to CW
>>> Turning squelch off
>>> Turning Preamplifier off
>>> Turning Attenuator off
>>> Setting Filter Width to 100 Hertz
>>> Setting RF Gain to maximum
>>> Turning CW Tune on
>>> Writing factory default calibration data
>>> Writing calibration table to DSP
>>> Delay 100 ms
>>> K3 did not respond to DSP command 
>>> !bc20007401350137023802390139033C033A023C033B033D043E053E063D063C083F093C0C3C0D3E0E3D103F0F3C0F400E3F0F3F103E143F1A401F41223F273F2D41333F3E404A4150403B3F113E0244013E003F0041003F003F0140004000400141033D064313412041243F18400B410742033C0442014100EE007451236D5338;
>>> Power cycle K3 and try calibration again.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Trying RF Gain Calibration with XG3 but fails

[Nr4c]

Oh, “S” Meter Cal

Sorry!

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jun 4, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> I sent this message a few days ago but did not get a single response. I have 
> emailed Elecraft support but due to COVID-19, I am not sure when I will get a 
> response from them. So here is my message again:
> 
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> I still have not been able to figure this out.
> 
> 73
> 
> K5RHD
> 
> /randy
> 
>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:42 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all,
>> 
>> I am trying to do the RF Calibration test using my new XG3.  I am getting 
>> the error below.  I have all firmware up to date on the K3s and the XG3. I 
>> even tried reloading the firmware on the K3s just to see if that worked. Of 
>> course turning it off and back on again did nothing either.  I DO have the 
>> SUB RX on this rig as well, ideas?
>> 
>> TIA and 73,
>> 
>> K5RHD
>> /Randy
>> 
>> 
>> Elecraft K3 Utility for OS X Revision 1.18.6.28
>> OS X Version 10.15.4
>> K3 MCU revision 05.67. RS-232 speed 38400 bps.
>> Turning sub receiver off
>> Unlinking VFOs
>> Selecting Antenna 1
>> Setting mode to CW
>> Turning squelch off
>> Turning Preamplifier off
>> Turning Attenuator off
>> Setting Filter Width to 100 Hertz
>> Setting RF Gain to maximum
>> Turning CW Tune on
>> Writing factory default calibration data
>> Writing calibration table to DSP
>> Delay 100 ms
>> K3 did not respond to DSP command 
>> !bc20007401350137023802390139033C033A023C033B033D043E053E063D063C083F093C0C3C0D3E0E3D103F0F3C0F400E3F0F3F103E143F1A401F41223F273F2D41333F3E404A4150403B3F113E0244013E003F0041003F003F0140004000400141033D064313412041243F18400B410742033C0442014100EE007451236D5338;
>> Power cycle K3 and try calibration again.
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Trying RF Gain Calibration with XG3 but fails

[Nr4c]

Exactly what are you trying to do?

The RF GAIN Calibration is done with the transmitter and a “Dummy” load. No 
need for the XG3.  Look in manual around page 52. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jun 4, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> I sent this message a few days ago but did not get a single response. I have 
> emailed Elecraft support but due to COVID-19, I am not sure when I will get a 
> response from them. So here is my message again:
> 
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> I still have not been able to figure this out.
> 
> 73
> 
> K5RHD
> 
> /randy
> 
>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:42 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all,
>> 
>> I am trying to do the RF Calibration test using my new XG3.  I am getting 
>> the error below.  I have all firmware up to date on the K3s and the XG3. I 
>> even tried reloading the firmware on the K3s just to see if that worked. Of 
>> course turning it off and back on again did nothing either.  I DO have the 
>> SUB RX on this rig as well, ideas?
>> 
>> TIA and 73,
>> 
>> K5RHD
>> /Randy
>> 
>> 
>> Elecraft K3 Utility for OS X Revision 1.18.6.28
>> OS X Version 10.15.4
>> K3 MCU revision 05.67. RS-232 speed 38400 bps.
>> Turning sub receiver off
>> Unlinking VFOs
>> Selecting Antenna 1
>> Setting mode to CW
>> Turning squelch off
>> Turning Preamplifier off
>> Turning Attenuator off
>> Setting Filter Width to 100 Hertz
>> Setting RF Gain to maximum
>> Turning CW Tune on
>> Writing factory default calibration data
>> Writing calibration table to DSP
>> Delay 100 ms
>> K3 did not respond to DSP command 
>> !bc20007401350137023802390139033C033A023C033B033D043E053E063D063C083F093C0C3C0D3E0E3D103F0F3C0F400E3F0F3F103E143F1A401F41223F273F2D41333F3E404A4150403B3F113E0244013E003F0041003F003F0140004000400141033D064313412041243F18400B410742033C0442014100EE007451236D5338;
>> Power cycle K3 and try calibration again.
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Trying RF Gain Calibration with XG3 but fails

[Randy Diddel]

Hi David,

I will try a different USB cable although I am using the brand new one that 
came from Elecraft with the XG3 which arrived a few days ago. I will check the 
k3 Utility version.

Thanks for the response!

73

K5RHD

/randy

> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:23 PM, David Fleming  wrote:
> 
> Hi Randy,
> 
> You are using an older revision of the K3 Utility. The first thing I would 
> try would be to download the most current revision of the Utility (1.19.9.6) 
> and see if that solves the problem. If this doesn’t help, I would suspect 
> that your usb/serial link between your Mac and the K3s may have become 
> marginal resulting in lost data while sending those rather large dsp commands 
> to the K3s. The solution may be as simple as trying a different usb cable.
>  
> David, W4SMT
> 
> On Tuesday, June 2, 2020, 6:51 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I am trying to do the RF Calibration test using my new XG3.  I am getting the 
> error below.  I have all firmware up to date on the K3s and the XG3. I even 
> tried reloading the firmware on the K3s just to see if that worked. Of course 
> turning it off and back on again did nothing either.  I DO have the SUB RX on 
> this rig as well, ideas?
> 
> TIA and 73,
> 
> K5RHD
> /Randy
> 
> 
> Elecraft K3 Utility for OS X Revision 1.18.6.28
> OS X Version 10.15.4
> K3 MCU revision 05.67. RS-232 speed 38400 bps.
> Turning sub receiver off
> Unlinking VFOs
> Selecting Antenna 1
> Setting mode to CW
> Turning squelch off
> Turning Preamplifier off
> Turning Attenuator off
> Setting Filter Width to 100 Hertz
> Setting RF Gain to maximum
> Turning CW Tune on
> Writing factory default calibration data
> Writing calibration table to DSP
> Delay 100 ms
> K3 did not respond to DSP command 
> !bc20007401350137023802390139033C033A023C033B033D043E053E063D063C083F093C0C3C0D3E0E3D103F0F3C0F400E3F0F3F103E143F1A401F41223F273F2D41333F3E404A4150403B3F113E0244013E003F0041003F003F0140004000400141033D064313412041243F18400B410742033C0442014100EE007451236D5338;
> Power cycle K3 and try calibration again.
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Trying RF Gain Calibration with XG3 but fails

[David Fleming via Elecraft]

Hi Randy,
You are using an older revision of the K3 Utility. The first thing I would try 
would be to download the most current revision of the Utility (1.19.9.6) and 
see if that solves the problem. If this doesn’t help, I would suspect that your 
usb/serial link between your Mac and the K3s may have become marginal resulting 
in lost data while sending those rather large dsp commands to the K3s. The 
solution may be as simple as trying a different usb cable. David, W4SMT
On Tuesday, June 2, 2020, 6:51 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:

Hi all,

I am trying to do the RF Calibration test using my new XG3.  I am getting the 
error below.  I have all firmware up to date on the K3s and the XG3. I even 
tried reloading the firmware on the K3s just to see if that worked. Of course 
turning it off and back on again did nothing either.  I DO have the SUB RX on 
this rig as well, ideas?

TIA and 73,

K5RHD
/Randy


Elecraft K3 Utility for OS X Revision 1.18.6.28
OS X Version 10.15.4
K3 MCU revision 05.67. RS-232 speed 38400 bps.
Turning sub receiver off
Unlinking VFOs
Selecting Antenna 1
Setting mode to CW
Turning squelch off
Turning Preamplifier off
Turning Attenuator off
Setting Filter Width to 100 Hertz
Setting RF Gain to maximum
Turning CW Tune on
Writing factory default calibration data
Writing calibration table to DSP
Delay 100 ms
K3 did not respond to DSP command 
!bc20007401350137023802390139033C033A023C033B033D043E053E063D063C083F093C0C3C0D3E0E3D103F0F3C0F400E3F0F3F103E143F1A401F41223F273F2D41333F3E404A4150403B3F113E0244013E003F0041003F003F0140004000400141033D064313412041243F18400B410742033C0442014100EE007451236D5338;
Power cycle K3 and try calibration again.



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Re: [Elecraft] Trying RF Gain Calibration with XG3 but fails

[Randy Diddel]

Hello again,

I sent this message a few days ago but did not get a single response. I have 
emailed Elecraft support but due to COVID-19, I am not sure when I will get a 
response from them. So here is my message again:


Anyone?

I still have not been able to figure this out.

73

K5RHD

/randy

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:42 PM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I am trying to do the RF Calibration test using my new XG3.  I am getting the 
> error below.  I have all firmware up to date on the K3s and the XG3. I even 
> tried reloading the firmware on the K3s just to see if that worked. Of course 
> turning it off and back on again did nothing either.  I DO have the SUB RX on 
> this rig as well, ideas?
> 
> TIA and 73,
> 
> K5RHD
> /Randy
> 
> 
> Elecraft K3 Utility for OS X Revision 1.18.6.28
> OS X Version 10.15.4
> K3 MCU revision 05.67. RS-232 speed 38400 bps.
> Turning sub receiver off
> Unlinking VFOs
> Selecting Antenna 1
> Setting mode to CW
> Turning squelch off
> Turning Preamplifier off
> Turning Attenuator off
> Setting Filter Width to 100 Hertz
> Setting RF Gain to maximum
> Turning CW Tune on
> Writing factory default calibration data
> Writing calibration table to DSP
> Delay 100 ms
> K3 did not respond to DSP command 
> !bc20007401350137023802390139033C033A023C033B033D043E053E063D063C083F093C0C3C0D3E0E3D103F0F3C0F400E3F0F3F103E143F1A401F41223F273F2D41333F3E404A4150403B3F113E0244013E003F0041003F003F0140004000400141033D064313412041243F18400B410742033C0442014100EE007451236D5338;
> Power cycle K3 and try calibration again.
> 
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 power per frequency bin

[Jim Brown]

On 6/4/2020 12:36 PM, Josh Fiden wrote:

What feature(s) of KPA1500 would you want in KPA500? Sincere question. I’m not 
familiar with the differences other than hardware. Built in tuner, separate 
light weight switching PS, legal limit power.


The fan noise in the KPA500 is less awful than in the KPA1500, which are 
TERRIBLY LOUD when running high duty cycle, like WSJY-X modes and RTTY 
when you're running and have worked out the band.


The KPA500 is intended to work with the very nice KAT500 tuner. The 
KPA1500 comes with a built-in tuner, also excellent.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Question

[Salvatore Ted K2QMF]

Hello All,
Does anyone have a clear picture of the KPA1500 "PA Input Board"??  Or a 
schematic??
Many Thanks in advance for any info...
73,
Sal  K2QMF



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 power per frequency bin

[hawley, charles j jr]

I don’t know, I just read that there are capabilities in the 1500 that the 500 
may not have.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 4, 2020, at 2:36 PM, Josh Fiden  wrote:
> 
> What feature(s) of KPA1500 would you want in KPA500? Sincere question. I’m 
> not familiar with the differences other than hardware. Built in tuner, 
> separate light weight switching PS, legal limit power.  
> 
> With my antennas I don’t see a big enough power difference across the band 
> with KPA500. Power could vary by 20% (it doesn’t) and its still <1dB, not a 
> big deal on HF. 450-550W the amp doesn’t care. With my big amp it’s a problem 
> when I want to set for 1.5kW then QSY and it’s 1.6+kW... not good. 
> 
> 73
> Josh W6XU
> 
> Sent from my mobile device
> 
>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 12:20 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> So...is it possible that the KPA500 could ever be upgraded or be a KPA500A 
>> to be as capable as the KPA1500?
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 power per frequency bin

[Josh Fiden]

What feature(s) of KPA1500 would you want in KPA500? Sincere question. I’m not 
familiar with the differences other than hardware. Built in tuner, separate 
light weight switching PS, legal limit power.  

With my antennas I don’t see a big enough power difference across the band with 
KPA500. Power could vary by 20% (it doesn’t) and its still <1dB, not a big deal 
on HF. 450-550W the amp doesn’t care. With my big amp it’s a problem when I 
want to set for 1.5kW then QSY and it’s 1.6+kW... not good. 

73
Josh W6XU

Sent from my mobile device

> On Jun 4, 2020, at 12:20 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> So...is it possible that the KPA500 could ever be upgraded or be a KPA500A 
> to be as capable as the KPA1500?
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Clay Autery]

I NEVER use a knife to remove connector protection.
For decades I have used single-edged razor blades ONE-time use on 
stuff like connectors.  I keep a box of 100 in the garage, my office, my 
networking box, my radio box, et al.
Pull out a new one to slit the cover and then wrap in a paper towel and 
dispose of properly.


99% of the time if I "slip" and cut something I don't want to cut is 
because the blade wasn't sharp enough for the job  AKA: applying too 
much force trying to push a dull edge through a material.


These days, I also carry an OLFA H-1 heavy duty retractable razor knife 
with big thick snappable section blades.  I use this in the 
construction/renovation stuff where I want a handle for the blade.

But I STILL use SE razor blades without a handle for detail work.

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 06/04/20 09:59, Dave Cole wrote:
I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my 
hand... ;)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when 
I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. 
Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's 
on the antenna end it's not so trivial.


  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use 
Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the 
tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no 
residue or old tape.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 power per frequency bin

[hawley, charles j jr]

So...is it possible that the KPA500 could ever be upgraded or be a KPA500A to 
be as capable as the KPA1500?
I am not comfortable with having a 1500 watt amplifier and probably would have 
to suffer all that noise and bother just to run a couple or few hundred watts. 
That is what I love about the KPA500, compact and super quiet.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 3, 2020, at 5:22 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> The K3 has only one way to communicate with the KPA500 and KPA1500, that 
> being Auxbus. There is no communications on this path that allows setting of 
> specific power levels in the K3 - there is only the OP/STBY that simply 
> selects either the K3 high power (STBY) or low power (OPER) modes. You have 
> to set those levels in the K3. Simply put, the communication paths and 
> protocols do not exist for the KPA1500 to set specific power levels in the K3.
> 
> Now, I am happy to say that there is most likely an upgrade coming that will 
> allow the KAP1500 (but not he KPA500) to communicate with the transceiver to 
> set the power level. Of course, that upgrade is known as the K4.
> The K4 and KPA1500 should work very well together.
> 
> It is kind of like the car you drive. You may want the car to have an 
> autonomous feature so that it drives itself, but you will have to buy a new 
> car to do that job. Me? I am saving my money and enjoying driving my old car.
> 
> The K4 is coming. I am sure you will enjoy it when it gets here!
> 
> 73!
> Jack, W6FB
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 3, 2020, at 2:38 PM, K8TE  wrote:
>> 
>> I am right there with Hank, and probably a lot of others.  It's worse when
>> one has an external antenna switch which the KPA1500 can't sense so it's
>> necessary to provide low power from the K3 to avoid a fault because of the
>> different antenna and the tuner can provide the appropriate (already
>> trained) match.  Also, switching between ANT1 and ANT2 with different
>> conjugate matches often requires different power levels from the K3 (or
>> other radios).
>> 
>> So, for operator "convenience" I find it necessary to set the K3 power level
>> at the lower point to avoid faults.  Sadly, there is now way for the KPA1500
>> to tell the K3 (or K4) what's going on and therefore what to do.  I'm
>> attempting to become smarter with an Arduino and, hopefully, figure out how
>> to automate this.  It requires a look-up table to determine frequency,
>> antenna, tuning solution, for setting the exciter drive level.  So far, I
>> can spell Arduino correctly four out of five times.  That is progress! 
>> Next, I will plug it in.
>> 
>> BTW, if one's antennas demonstrate little to no reactance and a 50 Ohm
>> match, this is not an issue.  That only happens in the movies and on TV
>> (Last Man Standing? who needs a K-Line, obviously).
>> 
>> 73, Bill, K8TE
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Dave Cole]

Yup.;..  :)

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 8:47 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
Weren't you taught not to whittle toward yourself and not to spit into 
the wind?   Neither works.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/4/2020 9:59 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my 
hand... ;)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when 
I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. 
Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's 
on the antenna end it's not so trivial.


  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use 
Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the 
tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no 
residue or old tape.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)


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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Weren't you taught not to whittle toward yourself and not to spit into 
the wind?   Neither works.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/4/2020 9:59 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my 
hand... ;)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when 
I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. 
Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's 
on the antenna end it's not so trivial.


  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use 
Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the 
tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no 
residue or old tape.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 showing Lo P on 10 meters, and no transmit power.

[Don Wilhelm]

Chris,

The LoP message indicates that there is not enough power to tune the KAT2.

As your first troubleshooting test, unplug the KAT2 (both cables) and 
try again - connect a dummy load to the lower BNC jack on the base K2.


See if you get power output on 10 meters.  If not, look carefully at the 
bandpass filter for 10/12 meters.


If the bandpass filter is OK, then you will have to do Transmit Signal 
Tracing.  Build the RF Probe if you have not already done that and turn 
to the Troubleshooting appendix in the manual.  Do the troubleshooting 
on page 14.  Use 10 meters instead of 40 meters, and tell me at which 
point the RF voltage is significantly (more than 10%) less than the 
expected voltage.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/4/2020 9:59 AM, Christophe GIBERT wrote:

Hi folks, I'm done in the building of my #7855 K2 and his KAT2.

I've got a problem on 10 meters.

For example I put the VFO on 28 360 Khz and I press down TUNE, to tune.

The screen shows a "Low P" message. When I try to transmit on this band, where 
is no power at all, the S Meter not move at all. (Problem with my antenna connected even 
with a good 50 ohms dummy load). All is good on the other bands.

My K2 is KAT2 and KSB2 equiped.

Some idea on where investigate ?

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Peter Dougherty]

This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm 
removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big 
deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's 
not so trivial. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then 
Scotch 88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, 
leaving no residue or old tape.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Peter Dougherty]

Never sliced my hand (thankfully), but yeah, I've damaged the cable a few 
times. See my correction, though; I use the 130 and marine grade heat shrink as 
my default, not 130 and 88. 

I *_did_* use 130+88 on the LFA yesterday, which is where this current 
discussion started. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Dave Cole  
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 10:59 AM
To: Peter Dougherty ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my hand... 
;)

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm 
> removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big 
> deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's 
> not so trivial.
> 
>   - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
> Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then 
> Scotch 88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, 
> leaving no residue or old tape.
> 
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
>   
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Peter Dougherty]

Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors:
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1"
for N connectors. 

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable.


 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Edward R Cole
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted
inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is not messy so
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure you can buy it at
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will
cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from
a local commercial electrical supply house. 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Dave Cole]

I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my 
hand... ;)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm 
removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big 
deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's 
not so trivial.

  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 
88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no 
residue or old tape.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
  


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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Dave Cole]

Time to put some of my current heatshrink on an old connector and throw 
it in the freezer, thanks for the tip!!!


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 12:35 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:

My two cents worth:

Professionally, I used a layer of Scotch-70 self-fusing tape covered by 
two layers of Scoth-33+ black electric tape.  This was on coax cable 
connectors on small vessels that were in salt-water exposure.  Removing 
5-years afterward, connectors were still bright,dry, and looking like new.


Scotch-70 is expensive (I paid $30 per roll over ten years ago for it). 
But when you got guys on board a 26-foot boat in the North Pacific with 
very high seas (like 30-foot) you want their Marine Radio to work.


At home, I use heat shrink with two layers of Scotch-33+ fairly 
reliably.  If things are too close to wrap with tape then a layer of 
Scotch-Kote seals heat shrink, thoroughly.


I don't use sticky, messy stuff like Coax Seal.  Scotch-70 molds into a 
seamless covering and slits easily with a razor knife.


Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a 
melted inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is 
not messy so apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure you 
can buy it at commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot 
chunks which will cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps 
(Thomas & Betts) from a local commercial electrical supply house.


When temperatures dip to -30F the cheap stuff gets brittle and breaks.  
That's not when I want to climb a tower.


73, Ed - KL7UW
   http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
   dubus...@gmail.com
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[Elecraft] K3/P3/KPA1500 Items For Sale

[ockmrzr]

I have some Spares for the K3/P3/KPA1500.  "Let's Make a Deal"

 

1x - KPA1500-KWD, KPA1500 to Kenwood Radio Interface Cable set

1x - KXV3A K3 Transverter Interface module

4x - KSYN3 K3 Synthesizer module

2x - E980297, RJ-45 to DE-9S (KIO3B RS232) Cable

1x - E850410, P3 Cable

1x - E850339, TMP Cable

 

If interested, let me know via direct email, n...@arrl.net
 

 

73 de Bruce, N7TY

Yuma, AZ

www.qsl.net/n7ty  

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[Elecraft] K2 showing Lo P on 10 meters, and no transmit power.

[Christophe GIBERT]

Hi folks, I'm done in the building of my #7855 K2 and his KAT2.

I've got a problem on 10 meters.

For example I put the VFO on 28 360 Khz and I press down TUNE, to tune.

The screen shows a "Low P" message. When I try to transmit on this band, where 
is no power at all, the S Meter not move at all. (Problem with my antenna 
connected even with a good 50 ohms dummy load). All is good on the other bands.

My K2 is KAT2 and KSB2 equiped.

Some idea on where investigate ?

--
Chris
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Doug Daniels]

Scotch-70 is $17.50 a roll on Amazon -
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-70-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Electrical/dp/B0029Z5RSY

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 3:36 AM Edward R Cole  wrote:

> My two cents worth:
>
> Professionally, I used a layer of Scotch-70 self-fusing tape covered
> by two layers of Scoth-33+ black electric tape.  This was on coax
> cable connectors on small vessels that were in salt-water
> exposure.  Removing 5-years afterward, connectors were still
> bright,dry, and looking like new.
>
> Scotch-70 is expensive (I paid $30 per roll over ten years ago for
> it). But when you got guys on board a 26-foot boat in the North
> Pacific with very high seas (like 30-foot) you want their Marine Radio to
> work.
>
> At home, I use heat shrink with two layers of Scotch-33+ fairly
> reliably.  If things are too close to wrap with tape then a layer of
> Scotch-Kote seals heat shrink, thoroughly.
>
> I don't use sticky, messy stuff like Coax Seal.  Scotch-70 molds into
> a seamless covering and slits easily with a razor knife.
>
> Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a
> melted inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is
> not messy so apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure
> you can buy it at commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in
> 4-foot chunks which will cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink
> and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from a local commercial electrical supply
> house.
>
> When temperatures dip to -30F the cheap stuff gets brittle and
> breaks.  That's not when I want to climb a tower.
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
>http://www.kl7uw.com
> Dubus-NA Business mail:
>dubus...@gmail.com
>
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>


-- 

--... ...--
Doug
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Edward R Cole]

My two cents worth:

Professionally, I used a layer of Scotch-70 self-fusing tape covered 
by two layers of Scoth-33+ black electric tape.  This was on coax 
cable connectors on small vessels that were in salt-water 
exposure.  Removing 5-years afterward, connectors were still 
bright,dry, and looking like new.


Scotch-70 is expensive (I paid $30 per roll over ten years ago for 
it). But when you got guys on board a 26-foot boat in the North 
Pacific with very high seas (like 30-foot) you want their Marine Radio to work.


At home, I use heat shrink with two layers of Scotch-33+ fairly 
reliably.  If things are too close to wrap with tape then a layer of 
Scotch-Kote seals heat shrink, thoroughly.


I don't use sticky, messy stuff like Coax Seal.  Scotch-70 molds into 
a seamless covering and slits easily with a razor knife.


Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a 
melted inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is 
not messy so apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure 
you can buy it at commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 
4-foot chunks which will cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink 
and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from a local commercial electrical supply house.


When temperatures dip to -30F the cheap stuff gets brittle and 
breaks.  That's not when I want to climb a tower.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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[Elecraft] KPA100 No Longer Available

[Neil Zampella]

Hi all,

I saw that the K2 100w tuner accessory, the KAT100  is no longer
available and discontinued.   I'm guessing its due to the permanent
unavailability of a through part.    I'm wondering if Wayne or Eric
could comment on this, and if there's any suitable replacement for that
tuner?

Neil, KN3ILZ


--
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