[Elecraft] Digital Voice Recorder (DVR) Operations?

2009-03-22 Thread Allan Bacon

I was able to record a simple CQ and store to M1.

Following the manual instructions (page 29), I tried to record a repating CQ to 
M2.

No luck, 

When I press the M2, the display just says END (and no message).

I wanted to record another message and cannot even record a simple, 
non-repeating one now. Any new message I record just says END (and no message?

Are there any other insturctions I have not read?

73,
Al
W6GBG
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[Elecraft] Setting up RTTY w/K3

2009-02-18 Thread Allan Bacon

Regarding the cables from the soundcard to the K3 - Sterio or Mono? 

Looks like the Line out to Soundcard is Sterio?

Looks like the Line in from the Soundcard is Mono? 

Above based on the labels on the back of the K3?

73,
Al
W6GBG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Help with KRX3 Installation PL2 Error?

2009-02-15 Thread Allan Bacon

Problem solved, my lack of a detailed reading of the calibration steps was the 
culprit, when I Looked Up "Calibration" and did those steps on the main and 
sub, working great.
73,
Al
W6GBG



- Original Message ----
From: Allan Bacon 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: Allan Bacon 
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 9:17:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Help with KRX3 Installation PL2 Error?


K3 #2252 Factory built, now adding KRX3. Do not want an exotic setup, just want 
to listen on one frequency and transmit on another - same band, same antenna.

Completed installation with no problem, Used good static mat and wrist strap. 
Uploaded latest firmware. Unsed Config Menu to initialize as ANT-BMC (seemed 
like the default I wanted to use) . Do not have a TMP cable plugged in to J92, 
as I believe this is how to keep it simple for what I want to do.

Per troubleshooting chart on a PL2 Error, I tried recalibrating the VCO with 
VCO (CONGIG:VCO:MD), taped SBU, screen showed 255, and SUB starts flashing 
slowly. Rebooted, Still get PL2 Error.

VFO A and B seem to work fine

Looking for help please - 
73,
Al
W6GBG 
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[Elecraft] K3 Help with KRX3 Installation PL2 Error?

2009-02-15 Thread Allan Bacon

K3 #2252 Factory built, now adding KRX3. Do not want an exotic setup, just want 
to listen on one frequency and transmit on another - same band, same antenna.

Completed installation with no problem, Used good static mat and wrist strap. 
Uploaded latest firmware. Unsed Config Menu to initialize as ANT-BMC (seemed 
like the default I wanted to use) . Do not have a TMP cable plugged in to J92, 
as I believe this is how to keep it simple for what I want to do.

Per troubleshooting chart on a PL2 Error, I tried recalibrating the VCO with 
VCO (CONGIG:VCO:MD), taped SBU, screen showed 255, and SUB starts flashing 
slowly. Rebooted, Still get PL2 Error.

VFO A and B seem to work fine

Looking for help please - 
73,
Al
W6GBG 
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net on 14.316 at 1800 UTC Now ON Up to 14.318

2009-01-25 Thread Allan Bacon




- Original Message 
From: KM5Q 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 4:42:20 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Reminder: Sunday Elecraft SSB Net on 14.316 at 1800 UTC

Every Sunday:  Elecraft SSB Net on 14.316 at 1800 UTC
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[Elecraft] Excess K-2 modules for sale KNB and KAT2

2009-01-25 Thread Allan Bacon
I have assembled, never installed, a KNB and KAT2, if interested please make an 
offer, off list.
73,
Al
W6GBG
baco...@yahoo.com
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Re: [Elecraft] AL-811H Amp and K3

2008-12-17 Thread Allan Bacon
To confirm what I think you are saying here is?

RCA plug on a wire from the K3 KEY OUT (RCA/Phono) to the RELAY RCA on the Amp ?

Thus keying the K3, also keys the amp?

73,
Al
W6GBG


- Original Message 
From: NZ0T 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 8:50:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] AL-811H Amp and K3


David,

I run the Al-811 (3 tubes otherwise the same as the 811H) with my K3 and
interface is very easy.  There is no need to use ALC just adjust the K3
power output so you are not overdriving the amp.  With my setup that's
around 60- 70 watts out.  You just need a simple cable with RCA plugs as the
keying line and you are good to go.

GL and 73,

Buill NZ0T


David Wilburn wrote:
> 
> I will be picking up an AL-811H soon.  I was first licensed in 2001 
> and I have never had an amp.  The 811 requires a 15ms delay, and I 
> noticed that the firmware now supports up to a 20ms delay, so I should 
> be good there.
> 
> The 811 documentation talks quite a bit about the use of ALC, and the 
> K3 documentation talks quite a bit about NOT using ALC.  I'm not sure 
> where to go with this.  Anyone using a K3 with an 811?  Do I need to 
> use ALC with it?
> 
> I am trying to get everything ready for the upcoming contests, so 
> timing is becoming an issue.
> 
> The current manual says to see the website to see if you need the mod 
> kit.  The website says to see the mod kit manual, to see if you need 
> to the mod kit.  The manual does not say anything about how to 
> determine if you need the mod kit, so I assume that if -12v ALC is 
> needed, the mod needs to be done.  Is this correct?
> 
> I do not see any mention in the K3 documentation about connecting to 
> amps. It looks like the key out is used to key the amp.  The manual 
> says up to 200v DC @ 5A.  The 811 documentation only mentions 12v, and 
> gets grounded for keying the amp.  Do I need any other devices inline 
> for keying the amp?
> -- 
> 
> David Wilburn
> NM4M
> http://www.nm4m.com
> K2 - S/N 5982
> K3 - S/N 766
> Latest Firmware
> 
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-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/AL-811H-Amp-and-K3-tp1328824p1328843.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead - getting interestring?

2007-05-25 Thread Allan Bacon
Don,
Thanks for your help. When I checked for continuity between the cathode of
D10 and the anode of D9 it came up negative - problem.

So I temporarily jumped the cathode of D10 and the anode of D9 and the rig
powered up correctly.

Then I took the heat sink off and I see trouble, not sure if these are the
right words, but it is what I see.

The board between D9 via R-14, R-13, FRC-11 almost to R7 is delaminated, no
green material, just copper and there is evidence of charring.

Allan Bacon
W6GBG


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 10:40 AM
To: Allan Bacon
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead?

Alan,

You are reading the schematic correctly - yes there should be a 
connection between the cathode of D10 and the anode of D9 (check to be 
certain they are connected with an ohmmeter first).

If you find the path open, you could install a TEMPORARY jumper between 
D10 cathode and D9 anode on top of the board to see if everything comes 
back to life.  If that restores full function, then remove the board to 
find the damaged PC board trace or (more likely) the bad solder connection.

Nothing in your measurements indicate a bad diode to me.  A diode 
conducts positive voltage from the anode to the cathode (hint: follow 
the arrowhead on the diode symbol), but blocks a positive voltage in the 
opposite direction.

73,
Don W3FPR

Allan Bacon wrote:
> I started tracing 13.8 V from the power source 
> 
> Input 13.8 V
> 
> Diode D10 Cathode 13.8 V Anode 0 to ground as per specifications 
> 
> Diode D9 Anode 0 V Cathode 0 V
> 
> So, it seems power is not getting to the D9 Diode
> 
>>From the schematic on page 64, it looks as those are the only components
on
> the trace from power injection to the KPA-100 to the "Aux 12V" at J4
> 
> Here is where my lack of knowledge shows up - 
> 
> 1. Since voltage is not present on either side of the diode, should I pull
> the heat sink and check the trace on the board?
> 
> 2. Or - Does a bad (not even sure what that means) diode prevent voltage
> from showing up?
> 
> 3. Or - What


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead?

2007-05-25 Thread Allan Bacon
I started tracing 13.8 V from the power source 

Input 13.8 V

Diode D10 Cathode 13.8 V Anode 0 to ground as per specifications 

Diode D9 Anode 0 V Cathode 0 V

So, it seems power is not getting to the D9 Diode

>From the schematic on page 64, it looks as those are the only components on
the trace from power injection to the KPA-100 to the "Aux 12V" at J4

Here is where my lack of knowledge shows up - 

1. Since voltage is not present on either side of the diode, should I pull
the heat sink and check the trace on the board?

2. Or - Does a bad (not even sure what that means) diode prevent voltage
from showing up?

3. Or - What

Allan Bacon
W6GBG


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 9:27 PM
To: Allan Bacon
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead?

Allan,

Was that J5, the 3 pin connector point (no header is normally installed 
there) on the RF Board near the front center (near the control board)?

If you did everything correctly, it should have no effect on the K2 
power-up condition.  If you wired to some other place than the 3 pin J5, 
remove what you added and try to discover what the error is.

It may have been something that inadvertently happened, and not at all 
associated with your additions - in that case, voltage measurements are 
in order.  You may have had a pin pushed back on the AUX DC connector 
from the KPA100, and it is no longer making contact with P3 on the RF 
Board - insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly if you find 
that to be the problem.

Is the KPA100 ribbon cable properly attached to the control board?
These are but a few starter questions.

73,
Don W3FPR

Allan Bacon wrote:
> K2 4670 with 100W and all options was working fine.
> 
>  
> 
> Per the recommendation of Microham, I added a speaker jack from J5 to a
> stereo plug on the back of the case and now the unit will not power up on
> the KPA-100
> 
>  
> 
> When I plug in power to the low power jack, the unit is OK, but will not
go
> to high power.
> 
>  
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 73,
> 
> Allan Bacon
> 
> W6GBG
> 
>  
> 
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> 


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead?

2007-05-24 Thread Allan Bacon
Yes, it was the J5, 3 pin connector point on the RF board near the front
center.

Ribbon cable is connected.

I will check the AUX DC connector and start voltage tracing.

Thanks,
Al 

Allan Bacon
W6GBG


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 9:27 PM
To: Allan Bacon
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead?

Allan,

Was that J5, the 3 pin connector point (no header is normally installed 
there) on the RF Board near the front center (near the control board)?

If you did everything correctly, it should have no effect on the K2 
power-up condition.  If you wired to some other place than the 3 pin J5, 
remove what you added and try to discover what the error is.

It may have been something that inadvertently happened, and not at all 
associated with your additions - in that case, voltage measurements are 
in order.  You may have had a pin pushed back on the AUX DC connector 
from the KPA100, and it is no longer making contact with P3 on the RF 
Board - insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly if you find 
that to be the problem.

Is the KPA100 ribbon cable properly attached to the control board?
These are but a few starter questions.

73,
Don W3FPR

Allan Bacon wrote:
> K2 4670 with 100W and all options was working fine.
> 
>  
> 
> Per the recommendation of Microham, I added a speaker jack from J5 to a
> stereo plug on the back of the case and now the unit will not power up on
> the KPA-100
> 
>  
> 
> When I plug in power to the low power jack, the unit is OK, but will not
go
> to high power.
> 
>  
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 73,
> 
> Allan Bacon
> 
> W6GBG
> 
>  
> 
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> 


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[Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead?

2007-05-24 Thread Allan Bacon
K2 4670 with 100W and all options was working fine.

 

Per the recommendation of Microham, I added a speaker jack from J5 to a
stereo plug on the back of the case and now the unit will not power up on
the KPA-100

 

When I plug in power to the low power jack, the unit is OK, but will not go
to high power.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks,

73,

Allan Bacon

W6GBG

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] T-shirts?

2007-05-18 Thread Allan Bacon
I (heart-love) my K3

My other rig is ... FOR SALE

Not kidding, on the shirt I bought!

73
Al
W6GBG

- Original Message 
From: Randy Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Elecraft Discussion List 
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 11:44:12 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] T-shirts?


OK, so what to the K3 t-shirts at Dayton say?

Randy, KS4L
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: New Icom XCVR IC-7700 Price

2007-05-18 Thread Allan Bacon
I attended the Contesting University on Thursday at Dayton and one of the 
sponsores was ICOM. Their national sales manager brough a 7700 to show and when 
I asked him the target price he replied about $6,000.00
73,
Al
W6GBG
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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 paddle fix?

2007-03-18 Thread Allan Bacon
Blue Locktite is not permanent, that should do the trick.
73,
Al
W6GBG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Cutter
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 12:21 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 paddle fix?

Any ideas on keeping the paddle screw tight? 

Mine seems to work loose easily, Locktite or similar
would work but I want to remove it.

72, Bob KI0G


 


We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love 
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265 
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[Elecraft] K2 - micoKEYER Interface - N1MM

2007-02-25 Thread Allan Bacon
I want to hook up N1MM logger to my K2 # 4670 with the microKEYER interface.
Does anyone have any experience doing this? In particularly I am looking for
info on cabling and any other relevant set up issues. I have the microHAM
cables specific for the K2.
Thanks
73,

Allan Bacon
AI4TK


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[Elecraft] K2 KBT2 Operational Question?

2006-03-13 Thread Allan Bacon
K2 with KBT2 installed.

If the battery switch is turned off, and 13.8 volts in plugged into the K2
will the radio come on if the on switch in pressed? Or another way of
asking, If I have the radio plugged in to external power and I turn the
batter switch off, does that turn off the K2.

With an old (4+ years) battery installed, and plugged into external power,
what would be the nominal reading off the K2's internal voltage meter? On my
radio #309, I only show about 12V, power supply is providing 13.8.

73,
KI4HRN
Al


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Re: [Elecraft] The Toroid Guy

2006-03-02 Thread Allan Bacon
I bought toroids from Mike - saves a lot of time, great ham to deal with, 
deserves our business.
Al
KI4HRN

- Original Message 
From: Harvey Howell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, March 2, 2006 1:19:15 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] The Toroid Guy


Has anyone used toroids from the 'Toroid Guy' to build a K2? Are his wound 
better or neater than someone can do by hand (I assume his are machine wound)? 
Is it worthwhile to buy his? Thanks.

Harvey
KN6VP
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.1.1/272 - Release Date: 3/1/2006
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[Elecraft] KPA-100 Test and Alighment Request for Assistance

2006-01-26 Thread Allan Bacon
K2 # 4670, finishing up test and alignment of a KPA-100.
 
Page 46 (all checks within norm to here)
Two Questions
 
1 - External Amplifier Keying Test (PA KEY)
 
Use the MODE switch to select CW mode (mode letter changes to C). Enter CW TEST 
mode by holding VOX. The letter C should now be flashing. In this mode, the K2 
will not put out any power when you key the rig either with a key or with the 
TUNE switch.
 
Set your DMM to its lowest resistance scale. Connect the (-) probe to ground, 
and touch the (+) probe to the tab of Q9 on the KPA100 board (or to the center 
conductor of the PA KEY output
jack, J7).
 
The DMM should be indicating a high resistance (typically indicated by a 
flashing display). 
OK to here -
Hold TUNE on the K2 to key the transmitter. The resistance reading should drop 
to less than 3 ohms.
THE OHMS start dropping, but before I can pull the + probe off the Q9 tab, 
something clicks/pop and the K2 drops out of the tune mode (sort of like of a 
reset?)
 
IS THIS WHAT IS SUPPOSED TO HAPPEN? OR 
 
The MM shows 3 OHMS at this time.
Never get to this part - Tap any switch to exit TUNE mode. Exit CW test mode by
holding VOX. The mode letter will stop flashing.

2 Bias Current Adjustment

Connect the (+) lead of the DMM to the power supply side of the circuit, and 
the (-) lead to the KPA100 side. Turn on the high-current power supply, then 
turn on the K2.
 
 
EXACTLY WHERE DO I CONNECT THE + AND - LEADS?
 
73,
KI4HRN
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[Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. K2

2006-01-06 Thread Allan Bacon

I have built K2 4670 working great, soon to add the 100W/tuner.

To learn more about this wonderful hobby, I also just bought an original K2
# 389 with the internal battery kit. This will be my QRP radio. This is also
obviously a Rev A model. It came with the following un built modules.

KNB2 Rev C dtd 3 Feb 2000

KAT2, Rev B, dtd Feb 14, 2000

KSB2, Rev B, dtd Nov 15, 199

>From the Elecraft web site, there are obvious upgrades (A-B kit and all the
others) that I will incorporate, but are there any upgrades to the un built
modules? Or after doing all the basic K2 mods, should I buy the latest
modules to this K2?

All suggestions/plan of action as to a course of action would be
appreciated.

73,
Allan Bacon
KI4HRN


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 6:06 PM
To: Craig Black; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

Craig,

If you plan to keep it, I would say that you should upgrade the current K2
no matter what - and do ALL the upgrades and all the optional pieces too -
including the Keying waveshape change, the PLL Temperature compensation
change and the Extremely Strong signal Handling diodes (no parts kit for
this last one, but it takes only 2 1N4148 diodes).  You will end up with a
K2 that performs just like a new one - it will only have a few more
components mounted on the bottom of the board, and you will not have an AGC
Threshold pot (unless you squeeze a tiny trimmer in there). Do change the
Filter crystals too.  No-one will know it has been upgraded unless they know
what to look for.  I can supply photos of my fully upgraded SN 0020 should
there be any doubt.

As far as a new K2 - well, if you want 2 of them, then the upgrade plus the
new build is the only way to go for economy.  I don't know what financial
constraints you may have, but the outlay for an upgraded K2 plus a new K2
will certainly be less than buying 2 new ones!

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> This falls into the "help me rationalize what I want
> to do" bucket, but make it factual.
>
> I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It
> has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have
> a KX1 and a T1)
>
> Should I;
> 1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
> about $140 total)...or
> 2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?
>
> The end results are of course different as in #2 I
> would have 2 K2's.
>
> Are there any comments on installing the full boat of
> upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ?
>
> Thanks
> Craig
>


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Re: [Elecraft] Relay Removal ?

2006-01-04 Thread Allan Bacon
If you can get a desoldering tool with heated pencil and desolder vacuum 
built-in 
go for it. I got a Hako 808 and removed many remove components from 
boards without damaging components or boards on any PCB's. Double-sided, 
singles and multi-layer. 
73,
KI4HRN

- Original Message 
From: Steve Kavanagh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 2:17:27 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Relay Removal ?


OK, while everyone seems to be on the subject of
stupidity...I just found I installed two of Elecraft's
ubiquitous latching relays incorrectly (after several
checks to make sure it was done right !).

Has anyone ever successfully unsoldered one without
serious damage to either the relay or the board ? If
so what technique did you use ?

73,
Steve VE3SMA



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[Elecraft] KNB2 "not installed"

2005-11-27 Thread Allan Bacon
I just finished wiring and installing a KNB2 in my K2.  When I turn the rig
on, I get the "Elecraft" display, then it goes to the normal frequency
display.  When I press the NB button, I get the same "not inst"
message that I got before I installed this module.
 
Following the troubleshooting hints in the manual, the board is plugged in
correctly, U3 is oriented correctly. I checked all the P1 pins.
 
 
Does anyone have any ideas?

 

 

Allan Bacon

KI4HRN

 

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[Elecraft] Menu Switch Not Working

2005-04-25 Thread Allan Bacon

Menu Switch Not Working –

The menu switch is much worse. It is still intermittent, but mostly not 
working. I checked the circuit connections from the Menu button to U3 pin 6 
(/BANK 1) and to U2 pin 6 (D7). All checked fine and I also checked 
connections at RP1, again fine.


The XIT button works, all the other front panel switches seem to work OK, 
so does the RIT switch.


I had an Electrical Engineer friend who is a ham go over this all with me 
this afternoon and he concurred that all seems as it should be, and at one 
time the menu switch worked, but all the rest of the time no effect.


We connected the two appropriate poles of the switch, still no action on 
the circuit.


Reheated all the pins on U2 and U3

I performed a hard reset by holding down the 4,5, 6 buttons at the same 
time when the power is turned on and no effect on the menu switch.


Is it possible that I have a bad U2 or U3? I do not know what else to check 
– suggestions?


KI4HRN
Allan Bacon
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
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[Elecraft] K2 # 4670 Completed - Now a Request for Suggestions

2005-04-04 Thread Allan Bacon

I have completed K2 # 4670 - thanks for the help.

I can now listen to W1AW code and work on getting on the air after I pass 
the Element 1 and General.


But, what is the best key to start with - straight, iambic, non-iambic? or 
what. So many choices and I need advice.


Thanks in advance.

73,
Al

KI4HRN
Allan Bacon
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[Elecraft] Help with Alignment Test - Collecter

2005-03-29 Thread Allan Bacon
On page 71 of the assembly manual - Resistance Checks I do not know what 
the collector and base of Q6/Q7 are. Any help will be sincerely 
appreciated. I know what/where Q6/Q7 are, but cannot find a definition of 
the parts to check for resistance to ground.



Q7 Collector
Q6 base
Q7 base


Thanks in advance
73,
Al

KI4HRN
Allan Bacon
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
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[Elecraft] Frequency Counter

2005-02-14 Thread Allan Bacon

Can the group recommend a frequency counter?

Looking for a brand/source - not the cheapest, the best value.
73,
Al

KI4HRN
Allan Bacon
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[Elecraft] K2 # 4670 Front Panel Resistance Checks

2005-02-07 Thread Allan Bacon

On page 28, Front Panel Resistance Checks

J1 pins 1 - 7 no movement on DMM
J1 pins 9 - 14 no movement on DMM

Advice to trouble shoot ?

Have looked for bridges, un soldered connections with good glass

VR,
al

KI4HRN
Allan Bacon
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
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[Elecraft] Emergency Radio

2005-01-19 Thread Allan Bacon

New guy here, first post, new ham KI4HRN, just started building K2 # 4670.

Retired Marine, was stationed in Northern Virginia on 9/11. Cell phones 
worked, but you could not get a call through - all circuits were busy, 
until you got south of the Occoquan river, about 15 miles south of DC. I 
know, I walked that far until I was able to get hold of my family via cell 
phone. Only circuits that worked we radio. That is why I got into amateur 
radio - emergency service. We Marines like to say we are not paranoid when 
we were right.


Realistically, amateur radio's emergency capabilities are less appreciated 
with increase of cellular systems. But, if it ever gets really bad. 
Hopefully we will be there.

Very Respectfully,
73,
al



KI4HRN
Allan Bacon
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
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