Re: [Elecraft] The tortuous road from Aptos to UK

2011-09-19 Thread David Lankshear
Some horror stories there, guys.

 

I've had several sizeable shipments from Elecraft and all that have been
caught for VAT have just had VAT applied to them plus the service charge.
Usually, this takes 2 to 3 weeks overall.

 

I've also had quite a few small parcels and packages of spares through from
Elecraft with no problems at all.  Transit time has been 5 working days,
with a few exceptions taking about 10 working days.  It seems that if the
value of the shipment is declared as $30 or less, it escapes VAT.

 

The ParcelForce depot is about 4 or 5 miles from home and apart from odd
opening times, I've been able to pay the charges by CC either on the spot,
or by a 4 minute duration automated telephone payment system.

 

It seems I must count myself lucky so far with postal services, so I'll
cross my fingers and hope that it stays that way.

 

73 all, Dave G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-14 Thread David Lankshear
Just a tail end to what was said about Edsyn.  They charge a monumental sum
for shipping, BUT they send orders in pre-packs by the most economical
method and then they refund the difference back onto your card.  They say
it's due to a very old website

 

Sorry I didn't mention it before and I hope no-one had a coronary when they
saw the cost come up.

 

73  Dave  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread David Lankshear
I've used the spring type solder sucker for decades and it works well for
me.  A memorable event in my solder sucking career was the removal of the
main right angled multipin connector that had been soldered to the wrong
side of a part built K2 RF board.  The board was returned to its owner with
the same right angled connector soldered on the correct side, allowing
construction to continue and to the best of my knowledge, that K2 continues
in good health to this day.  That was also a mighty tribute to the quality
of PCB material that Elecraft specify.  Thanks, E.

 

I find that the application of sufficient heat holds the key to a good
"suck."  Sufficient heat is needed to melt the solder on the joint side,
through the PTH and on to melt any solder that's gone through to the
component side.  There's a fine dividing line between sufficient heat and a
barbecue, which boils down to experience, lots of practice and is often
blessed with a wee bit of luck.

 

I'm currently fitting a K6XX board (thanks, Ron) to a K1 and I didn't like
the location shown in the instructions.  By moving RP1 and R6 to the other
side of the front panel board, a large area is created for the K6XX.
There's always a "but" and in this case, it's the need to separate the front
panel PCB from the front panel itself to adjust the detector's audio pitch,
but then, it should only need doing once <>

 

I have a full size Edsyn Soldapult but find it too big for most
requirements, however, Edsyn have a closeout offer on page 7 of their
clearance items for a PT509 tool at just $6.99.
http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=prodclear
 &pg=7

 

There has to be a catch and it's a $25 minimum order, but if two or three
friends combine orders, together with a couple of spare tips on offer at
$1.50 each and maybe an "O" ring or two, that sum is all too easily
exceeded.

 

Don't expect Elecraft service from Edsyn.  I placed an (overseas) order with
them and had to chase it.  I tried telephoning, but my North of
England-tuned hearing couldn't understand what they were saying.  Suffice it
to say, the order eventually arrived and I was more than pleased with the
smaller device.

 

Chipquik has been mentiond before, but are worthy of another mention, as the
Company offer a free sample, which is not to be passed up.  Although they
focus on SMT technology, there's no reason it can't be used to aid removal
of a stubborn pin or two in a multipin device.  http://www.chipquik.com/

 

Much has been said lately about clearing plated through holes as part of a
re-work.  I find that feeding a bit more fresh solder into a PTH until it is
full and then using the solder sucker usually clears the hole extremely well
and requires no additional tools.  I find solder braid to be a waste of time
when clearing holes, but I do use it, after cleaning barbecued flux residue
away, to clear solder from flat surfaces, so pads are returned to flatness.
If you have a flux pen, run the pen tip over both sides of the unused wick
before use.  It helps it work even better.

 

73  Dave G3TJP

 

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Re: [Elecraft] P3: Span control logic

2011-08-08 Thread David Lankshear
I don't know what has conditioned me over the last 50+ years, but know that
when I reach for the "Width" knob, invariably I turn it in the wrong
direction.  My P3 is yet to get any serious use as yet, so I can't comment
on that.

 

If a choice of direction of rotation could be made available, I'd love to
have the "Width" control to go t'other way.  I don't have a problem with any
other control on the K3.

 

Wasn't this was a topic that died fairly quickly a year or two back?  I
doubt that it was added to the bottom of any of the "to do" lists then, so I
won't hold my breath now.

 

73  Dave  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] TOM HAMMOND, N0SS, SILENT KEY

2011-08-05 Thread David Lankshear
Goodbye, dear and special friend.  

 

Thoughts are with the family, especially Jeri.

 

Dave G3TJP

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KE7X book at lulu.com

2011-06-16 Thread David Lankshear
As explained offline to F5VJC, and as stated in my original post, there was
no criticism of Fred's work intended.

 

I wrongly assumed that a book was a book, and assumed that lulu was charging
VAT on books.  At least one assumption too many on my part (to satisfy those
who like to have a sly dig) and I was wrong.

 

I'm grateful to Ian, GM3SEK, for pointing out that a book isn't always a
book, especially when it's a download or on a CD.  I learned something
useful as a result of his response to my post.

 

Weather, taxes and politicians are the favourite gripes of true Brits and
it's just started raining here HI!

 

Finally, my sincere thanks to Fred for his labour of love.  My hope is that
we can all do it justice by learning more about the K3.

 

73 all.  Dave, G3TJP

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KE7X book at lulu.com

2011-06-09 Thread David Lankshear
I was just ordering Fred's book as a download, but stopped when lulu decided
to add VAT to the price.

 

Here, in the UK, books are exempt from VAT, so I tried to report this to
lulu, but they won't accept a query without an order number and an order
number is only generated in response to payment.

 

So, I just have to accept that I'm ripped off yet again, this time by lulu.

 

It's not Fred's fault and it's not a critique of his outstanding work, it's
just me, fed up with living the wrong (and more expensive) side of the pond.

 

G, just so others in the EU know what to expect.

 

Flame off, 73  Dave  G3TJP

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Info Sign-up Form

2011-05-26 Thread David Lankshear
I signed up and it failed my application, complete with the grammatical
error of You're instead of Your.

 

Maybe they don't like foreigners from other than the bottom 48?

 

73  Dave Lankshear, G3TJP

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[Elecraft] K3 mod by N0SS

2011-05-09 Thread David Lankshear
I took my K3 down to fit a 2nd rx and was reminded of a post by N0SS about
the different way of releasing the rear top corner of the right side panel.
As a reminder, the threaded D-2 block has a threaded pillar attached to it
by a single screw, making it inadvisable to remove the screw at rear top;
instead, a screw holding the KAT3 PCB to the threaded pillar is removed,
requiring the use of a screwdriver held at an angle to unscrew and re-drive
a screw.

 

Tom, N0SS, came up with a very simple mod to enable the panel screw to be
removed, just like the rest of the case screws. 

 

I drilled the D-2 threaded fastener's screwhole to 7/64" , which was just
sufficient to remove the threads.

 

Afterwards, the pillar can remain connected to the KAT3's PCB and the longer
than normal countersunk screw at the right top corner passes through the D-2
and screws into the threaded pillar.

 

This mod makes it unnecessary to remember the different takedown requirement
for that single location.

 

Neat!  Thanks, Tom. A nice little tweaklet.

 

73  Dave  G3TJP

 

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[Elecraft] P3 display questions

2011-04-07 Thread David Lankshear
Hi guys.  I've just hung together my new P3 and have noticed a couple of
things that I can't recall as having been raised before.

 

On test, I noticed that the display wasn't quite square with the front panel
aperture.  It runs out only a millimetre or so, but it was the first thing
that registered with me after its maiden power on.  Do others see this?  Am
I being too fussy?  I've had it to bits and tried every which way to square
it up, but the flubber bed it sits in, and the flubber that covers the
keypads is all one piece and it seems to have been glued to the PCB just a
wee bit on the skew.

 

Second, does everyone's display sit very close to the left hand side of the
front panel aperture, while there's a broader, unused strip to the right
side of the aperture?

 

73 Dave, G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Shutdown

2011-03-23 Thread David Lankshear
Howdy, "H."

Have you checked what your PSU is doing when you try to tx at more than 25W?

Cycle round the options available by poking the "DISP" "METER" button and find 
the one that monitors your voltage input (it will be about 0.3v below your PSU 
voltage because of a protection diode).  Watch what happens to that voltage as 
you sneak up towards 25W.  If the voltage is showing a progressive drop, then 
you either have a sick PSU or there's a problem in the feed cable.  It's 
usually connections or an inline fuse where conductivity problems arise.

Did you fit your own Andersons on the cable?  Did you solder and if you did, 
was the solder wicked inside the contact's barrel?  Did the contacts click home 
in the shells with a most definite click?  Once they've clicked into place they 
are very firmly there.  I think you have to experience trouble with an 
"un-clicked" Anderson before you really appreciate that click HI!

Hope that helps, or at least keeps you busy for a while HI!

Very best wishes and hope your problem is easily overcome.

73  Dave  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] Carrying case for a K3?

2011-03-21 Thread David Lankshear
Wow! Alexander, that's quite a tall order.  Maybe you need something like a 
supermarket trolley with big wheels?  HI! HI!



If you could come up with the design you need, have a word with Rose, shown 
below.  She may well be able to hang a customised one together for you.  

She makes good stuff.

 

http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5

 

elecraftcov...@gmail.com

 

73 Dave  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] TAC PAC Wanted

2011-03-16 Thread David Lankshear
Have you thought of using one of Rose's protective carry-cases?  Good stuff.

 

http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5

 

elecraftcov...@gmail.com

 

73 Dave  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} Transformer to change mic impedance

2011-02-27 Thread David Lankshear
Grateful thanks to all who took the trouble to reply, both on and off the
reflector.  Your suggestions have been most helpful and will keep me busy
for a while HI!

 

73  Dave  G3TJP

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[Elecraft] K3 spares enhancement

2011-02-27 Thread David Lankshear
 I suggested this to Aptos, but don't know if the message reached them, so here 
goes, a second try.

 There's a generous little package of screws, nuts and bolts with every K3 but 
in the KRX3 installation manual, it warns that the plastic screws used to 
attach the piggyback DSP board are fragile and susceptible to damage if 
overtightened.  My suggestion was to include a spare plastic screw.

 In the real world, has anyone sheared one yet?

73  Dave  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] K3 White stick query

2011-02-27 Thread David Lankshear
A white stick operator asked recently if there would ever be a chance of the 
K3's DVR being used to speak control button and knob data.  I said I doubted it 
but would ask Aptos, which I did, but they didn't reply.  I wonder if the 
question was too far off the wall, or are they going to shock us with an 
announcement in the near future?

73  Dave  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] {OT} Transformer to change mic impedance

2011-02-25 Thread David Lankshear
Hi all.  Has anyone any knowledge of a sub-miniature transformer to change the 
impedance of a 100k dynamic mic to 600 ohms?

I have a surfeit of old Shure mics and just about all are very high impedance.  
Ideally, I'd like a transformer that could be tucked away in a spare corner of 
a hand-held PTT mic.

Thanks in advance.

Dave, G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/K3: Keyboard to CW possible with KUSB and no computer?

2011-01-02 Thread David Lankshear
Take a look at www.K1EL.com, he has a number of keyers that should work just
fine with any Elecraft rig.  

 

I have a K40, now obsolete and replaced by the K42, since arthritis left me
unable to use a bug or paddle and can vouch for its effectiveness on both K2
and K3.

 

73 & HNY all.

 

Dave  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] Noise reduction

2010-11-30 Thread David Lankshear
I had a listen to all the before and after samples on their website and
quite frankly, preferred the unprocessed audio in every case.

 

Could this be the result of listening to signal + noise for over half a
century?

 

73  DaveL  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Enhancement request - audio mixing

2010-11-11 Thread David Lankshear
As Richard's message seems to have disappeared under a pile of other posts,
I would add my voice on behalf of a friend who would dearly love to be able
to listen to his 2nd rx in both ears.

 

I would guess that it wouldn't be that hard to implement, judging from the
other audio options that have been implemented in firmware.

 

Love to have a 'yea', 'nay', 'maybe', 'on the list' or 'never' from Eric or
Wayne.

 

73  DaveL  G3TJP

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K3 Problem with new K3 Utility

2010-10-14 Thread David Lankshear
I've come across a problem trying to install the new K3 utility onto my
computer that's running an up to date version of Windows XP Pro.

 

I downloaded it to a file and then ran it.  My firewall, the free version of
ZoneAlarm, blocked K3UtilitySetup_1_3_10_11.tmp(4656) reporting that it
contained Trojan WIN32.GenericIBT

 

Any helpful comment or guidance would be much appreciated, thanks.

 

73 Dave  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Low speaker output problem

2010-09-07 Thread David Lankshear
I've had several bouts of no output and a couple of low output from my K3 
#1122.  It's been down to the speakers jack socket seemingly being a very 
sloppy fit with every one of several changes of jack plug.  

I thought I'd tamed it by taping the speaker wires to another firmly secured 
cable in the hope that would keep all well and truly together, but on switching 
on after a few weeks of lack of use, my outboard speakers were "at it" again, 
and a good wiggling of the jack plug was required to alleviate the problem.

I don't know if this is a common problem or a unique one, but it is a minor 
irritant, especially if one speaker goes out and then comes back on as the 
other goes off.  I kind of "wobble" on my chair when that happens HI!

73 all.  Dave  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Softrock IF - solved

2010-08-14 Thread David Lankshear
I'm sorry to advise that the component identifiers in Tony Parkes' response
don't tally with the identifiers on the 6.2 Softrock Lite circuit diagram
for components that are band specific.  It seems some wires are crossed

 

I've emailed Tony, seeking clarification, and will post the outcome on here.

 

73  DaveL  G3TJP

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft International Shipping Charges

2010-04-26 Thread David Lankshear
I went through the shock of displayed shipping charges some time ago.

 

The solution is to add a short message at the payment stage of the order,
asking the shipping staff

to send items by lowest cost.   

 

For the UK, this is usually an airmail service and it takes 5 to 8 working
days in my experience.

 

I have purchased odds and sods on a number of occasions and have always
found that the Elecraft

staff display common sense with shipping.  Stuff is always extremely well
packaged and for small

bits and pieces, ten bucks is pretty much the norm.

 

If in doubt, drop an email to li...@elecraft.com and she will tell you the
same.

 

73  DaveL  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3 >>>>

2010-04-15 Thread David Lankshear
Did you see a price, Bill?

73 DaveL
On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 05:27:08 -0700 Bill NY9H wrote:

ooppsnow i can't find it ,sri

bill

At 08:23 AM 4/15/2010, Bill  NY9H wrote:
>It's up on the website ,  time to order
>
>
>bill

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question

2010-03-17 Thread David Lankshear
The fitting of the washer is indeed a trivial matter, Tom.  It's on the 
inside of the front panel, so if it had to be chiseled off, the marks 
wouldn't show and I'm sufficiently competent to use the minimum 
amount of adhesive to hold it in place.  I won't tighten down the nut 
on the front panel beyond finger tight because it would distort the 
panel and probably damage the panel coating, besides being quite 
unnecessary.  A gap of a few thou is irrelevant to the washer's fitting 
and function, but a large gap, such as would remain if the washer was 
not in place, would potentially stress the DSP board unreasonably, as 
pointed out by Don.  A rattling washer is a nuisance and stopping that 
by whatever means - adhesive, hotmelt, Blu-tak, chewing gum etc. is 
a positive contribution to the K3's usability.

This topic has gone beyond its sell by date and is now about as useful 
as QRM.

73  DaveL  G3TJP

Tom, N5GE wrote:
I presume you considered that if there was ever a reason to remove the
washer in the future, you may have to damage the front panel to remove
it, and decided that was not an important issue.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question

2010-03-17 Thread David Lankshear
It was a bit loose on my K3 #1122, but I've seen it as a close fit on other 
K3's and a slack fit on a couple of others.

Mine rattled when the internal speaker was used so I put a little bit of stuff 
called Blu-Tak on mine to stop it rattling. Subsequently, on  removing the DSP 
from the front panel to make changes, I used a tiny dot of superglue to fix it 
to the front panel.   After finger tightening the nut on the jack socket 
there's still a tiny gap but it doesn't rattle any more.

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 mods and methods: smt resistor/capacitor de-soldering

2010-02-02 Thread David Lankshear
Simple two pole devices don't need much "engineering" to remove, but I would 
caution against the "cut in half with sharp cutters" method as it can lead to 
damaged pads.

I can't be bothered creating special tools for two pole devices, just a quick 
flip with a pair of soldering irons, then use a bit of desolder braid to clean 
up the pads. 

What can be quite exciting is the removal of multi-pin devices and for that, 
Chipquik is a wonderful friend.  It's not cheap, but then it's worth using an 
inch to remove a high pin density chip.  The flux they supply is great for 
cleaning off pads with cotton buds.  Chipquik is a great substitute for a hot 
air desoldering station, see here, (and get your free sample!).

http://www.chipquik.com/

73 DaveL G3TJP
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[Elecraft] K3: RxA mod

2010-01-23 Thread David Lankshear
I was browsing the mods applicable since my K3 was "born" and while the 
majority of mods carry an explanation of what they were for, the RxA mod 
doesn't.

I've failed to find what it was for, so any chance of a reminder, please?

Thanks & 73  DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DIY DSP Rev D - please elaborate

2010-01-01 Thread David Lankshear
By firmware release notes, do you mean the comments associated with the order 
for the K3DSPUPGD, Don?  If that's a yes, then this should settle matters 
because it says:

"Improves low freq RX/TX audio response below 300 Hz, and adds a Low Pass 
Filter (LPF) that rolls off RX audio above 4 kHz."

Thanks for your guidance on this, Don.  A Happy New Year to you and to all on 
the reflector.

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DIY DSP Rev D - please elaborate

2009-12-31 Thread David Lankshear
Gleaned from this reflector, I'm only aware of the lowering of the bass rolloff 
frequency.  Elecraft and W9AC did it in different ways, although only W9AC's 
changes are published.

73 & HNY DaveL  G3TJP
OK...so besides the LPF, what else is different on the DSP "D" board?
I don't think I've seen any elaboration anywhere.

thanks,
de Doug KR2Q
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[Elecraft] DIY DSP Rev D

2009-12-31 Thread David Lankshear
Take a look at the K3 mods section, guys.  The DSP board add-on AF LPF 
piggyback board is now available as 

K3DSPLPF, K3 DSP LPF Board  $24.95

Just two tracks to cut and six through-board connections to be made.  No 
problem at all for anyone who can figure out which end of a soldering iron is 
the hot end HI!

For the overseas purchasers, the cheapest shipping appears to be $40, but put a 
note in the comments section asking Elecraft to send by cheapest means, like 
First Class Mail.  It's not insured, but my friends and I have never had 
anything go astray (yet HI! )

Adding the W9AC mods to create a lower bass rolloff frequency will make your 
DSP board equal to Rev D,  although Elecraft's own component changes to achieve 
a similar result are different.

Please note, on the W9AC mod page, here:

http://www.n1eu.com/K3/k3audiomod.htm

all the parts can be obtained from Mouser.

4.7uF SMT 0603 ceramic cap part number is 80-C0603C475K9P  (4 required)
0.47uF SMT 0603 ceramic cap part number is 80-C0603C474K9P  (2 required)
1.0uF SMT 0603 ceramic cap part number is  80-C0603C105K9P  (1 required)

The 100uF capacitors, C9 and C13 in the headphone circuit are SMT 5mm diameter 
low impedance, part number   647-UCD0J101MCL1GS  and are 6.3V components, not 
10V as W9AC states. (2 required)
Note, Elecraft themselves use 6.3V capacitors in the factory mod.  100uF/10v 
5mm diameter capacitors are not commonly available, although Mouser do stock an 
audio grade 100uF/10v tantalum SMT capacitor that fits the board very nicely.  
The tantalums are Mouser part number 647-F951A107MBAAM1Q2, but are more 
expensive than the alternative aluminium electrolytic cap.

Note, working with 0603 size SMT components is not a task to be undertaken 
lightly.  Considerable skill is needed to remove existing components and 
substitute the replacement values.  If you are in ANY DOUBT as to your ability 
to make these changes, consider whether you need the mod at all and if you do, 
go for the DSP board exchange option, K3DSPUPGD, that Elecraft offers.

Happy New Year, everyone.

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] Help, please. K3 and PSK31

2009-12-28 Thread David Lankshear
Grateful thanks for all the replies, both here on the reflector and direct.

I've printed all of them, because they look like a mine of helpful information, 
so that's now awaiting my next session in the shack.   My XYL's not too well, 
so I've been "promoted" to head cook and bottlewasher and it's not easy to 
sneak off to the shack, although the call's getting stronger by the minute HI!

Again, thanks to everyone for their kind assistance.

73 and may everyone enjoy a Happy New Year.

DaveL G3TJP
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[Elecraft] Help, please. K3 and PSK31

2009-12-27 Thread David Lankshear
I'm getting round to trying PSK31 and later maybe some other data modes.

I want to use either the stereo line out source or the headphones socket on the 
back panel of the K3, which is getting mighty full of connections these days.

I could use some advice from the collective HI!

Should I use a stereo jack with tip active, sleeve ground and ring unconnected, 
or should ring and tip be paralleled for use with line out? 

Would I be best using the line out or headphone socket (with configuration 
speakers+phones=yes)?

Also, if anyone has experience of using the Tigertronics Signalink USB with the 
K3 I'd be very interested to have your comments.

Grateful thanks for any assistance and a very Happy New Year to all my readers 
HI!

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] Raised K3DSPUPGD price?

2009-12-23 Thread David Lankshear
The K3DSPUPGD was expensive at the old price, bearing in mind the cost of 
carriage and return.  Now the price is verging on the obscene.  For the money 
you'll get a Rev B board with a few component changes and the added LPF board.

For those who can use a soldering iron, the W9AC bass enhancement mods work 
perfectly well, so keep fingers crossed that the LPF, when it appears, is 
priced fairly.  

Is it right that we're being asked to pay through the nose for things that are 
correcting shortfalls in the original design?

73  DaveL
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Rev C +AF filter

2009-12-17 Thread David Lankshear
I have one of the upgraded boards.

Mine is a rev B with some SMT component changes that achieves approximately the 
same result as W9AC's bass extension mods, although Elecraft seem not to have 
changed some of the capacitor values.  I think I read somewhere they were 
achieving the same result with altered resistor values instead.

There is also a small PCB holding one IC and a handful of SMT components that 
connects to the main PCB by six through connections.  I suspect there may be 
track cuts beneath it, but I've had no reason to investigate beneath the add-on 
PCB.  Yes, by the time shipping and return carriage for the return board, it is 
indeed expensive for those on this side of the pond.

After fitting the upgraded Rev. B DSP board, I turned my K3 on without an 
antenna connection and had one of those heart-in-mouth moments, because there 
was just silence instead of the usual hiss.  My RF gain was still set to fully 
clockwise and my AF gain was set to around 9 o'clock, but there was no hiss.  
After a couple of deep breaths, a few checks showed the K3 to be working, 
QUIETLY!

So, in summary, I have a Rev B board with no sticker to indicate it's a Rev. C 
board.  It has been upgraded with component changes to improve bass response 
and has a a small active LPF added to reduce hiss and high frequency artefacts. 
 Both mods do their jobs well in my opinion.

As I'm not afraid to use a soldering iron on a piece of expensive kit, had the 
LPF add-on board been available I would undoubtedly have fitted that myself, 
together with the W9AC mods.  The add-on PCB would survive the mail in a small 
Jiffybag and there would be no requirement to return the unmodified DSP board, 
but YMMV and in my case it serves to remind me that hindsight remains the only 
exact science.

I have already fitted the W9AC mods mods. to a friend's DSP board and it works 
as well as Elecraft's mods for enhanced LF audio.  If the LPF becomes available 
as an add-in kit, I shall most certainly fit one to my friend's K3 and 
hopefully it will save him a shower of bucks.

To those contemplating W9AC's mods, watch out.  The two 100uF 10v SMT 
electrolytics he specifies are 6.3mm diameter and are intended to replace two 
10uF components that are 5mm in diameter on a PCB designed to take 5mm SMTs.  I 
was unhappy with the cosmetics of fitting the larger electrolytics and 
eventually settled on using two SMT 100uF/10v tantalums, which fitted very 
nicely.  I note on the modified DSP board that Elecraft have used two 100uF 
6.3v electrolytics, which are 5mm diameter, so with hindsight, I'd have fitted 
those instead of the tants, which were some order of magnitude more expensive 
than the electrolytics.

73 and Season's Greetings to all.

DaveL  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] VCO Voltage Instability

2009-11-19 Thread David Lankshear
This is a long shot, but I had this sort of problem for quite a while and tried 
all sorts of things to fix my "watery" CW.

If your radio is equipped with the KDSP2, check the settings.  I must have been 
playing with the K2's DSP settings just prior to the arrival of my K3, so by 
the time I got round to using my K2 again, I'd forgotten all about the 
tinkering.

I awarded myself the dummy of the week prize HI!  

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] VFO Tuning Noise, still some there after modification

2009-11-04 Thread David Lankshear
After implementing Elecraft's VFO tuning hash modification, there was still 
hash to be heard on my K3, most notably in the bottom 40kHz of 10 metres.

 

The problem was finally eased by replacement of the two silicon diodes used in 
the modification.  Although no fault could be found with the original diodes - 
they were a couple from a large bandolier of 1N4148 purchased from a major 
retailer some time ago - their replacement with a couple of 1N4148 diodes 
recycled from redundant equipment reduced the hash level to below the received 
antenna noise level on 10m.

 

The only difference I could find between the two pairs of diodes was that the 
Vf on the original diodes was higher than that of the replacement diodes.  
Original diode Vf 0.75v, replacement diode Vf 0.71v, all measurements taken at 
5mA.

 

If anyone is still experiencing VFO tuning hash after making the modification, 
it might be worth trying a swap out of the diodes.  Perhaps using Schottky 
barrier diodes might be even better?

 

Hats off to Gary of Elecraft support for his patience and for always being 
there when needed.  Also to Dale, who could hear my K3's hash over 8,000 miles 
of landline.

 

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 12m problem

2009-10-18 Thread David Lankshear
Barry, it sounds like you need to install the K3VFOFILTERKIT, see here:

http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm#K3 Parts

I had a lot of tuning noise on several bands.  All my screws are nice and snug 
and my TMP cables run as per Elecraft's recommendations.  Post-modification, I 
still get some tuning noise but on most bands (except 6m and the CW end of 10m) 
it's below the band's noise level.

Take a look at the instructions, dig out two 470 ohm resistors and two diodes 
and save yourself $10.  It's an easy mod to apply, but don't forget the 
firmware change, quote:

1. Download and install firmware revision 3.24 or later. Refer to the K3 
software page for instructions.
2. IMPORTANT: Locate the CONFIG:VCO MD menu entry, and tap the 1 keypad switch 
until you see SPI 2; this selects the new bus clock rate. (The default setting 
is SPI 1.)

I'm still waiting for Elecraft's suggestions to improve the hash level, but 
must admit, I haven't checked 12m YET because of antenna restrictions.

73 DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Rev C DSP with Low Freq Enhancement ship date info; New swap out option on parts order page. CORRECTION

2009-10-10 Thread David Lankshear
May I ask why the LF response improvement was confined to headphones only? 

Why was the improvement not applied to all audio outputs, or am I missing 
something here?

Grateful thanks.  DaveL  G3TJP

Lyle Johnson wrote:
The hardware mods improve the *TX* audio path low frequency response from all 
three sources (front microphone, rear microphone, line in).  They also improve 
the Rx low frequency response for *headphones* only.  Lined out and speaker 
low frequency responses are not affected.
73,
Lyle KK7P/7 (in Tucson, AZ)
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Re: [Elecraft] RadCom, Chinese K1?

2009-09-21 Thread David Lankshear
Apologies for my post on the above subject.  It has taken around 2 days

to reach the list and has been garbled along the way.  I think the gist of

it can be deduced, though.

 

Earlier, a message I had sent ONCE appeared for a second time.  The 

reflector's gremlins appear to have singled me out for their interference.

 

73  DaveL  G3TJP

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[Elecraft] RadCom, Chinese K1?

2009-09-21 Thread David Lankshear
The October 2009 edition of RSGB’s RadCom carries some column inches
entitled “A New Chinese QRP Transceiver” in its regular monthly QRP feature.
K1HAH, John Callaghan, is taking orders for these HB-1A fully built units,
similar to Eleccraft’s KX-1.  Shipment will be direct from China.  They are
fully built and cover 5 – 16MHz CW/SSB Rx and 7, 10 & 14MHz CW Tx at approx.
4W when driven from a mains PSU.They are designed and manufactured in
China by BD4RG and another ham named Bu Xianzhi.

 

A UK retailer, Martyn Lynch, is advertising them at approx. £250,
http://www.hamradio.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh01.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eham
radio%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2fAmateur_Radio%2ehtml

&WD=hb%2d1a&PN=Am_Handheld_MyDEL%2ehtml%23a1_213804#a1_213804 or go to
www.hamradio.co.uk   and search for HB-1A.

 

Could this be the Chinese clone of the KX-1, but with SMT?

 

73  DaveL  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Response - Version 3.33 Firmware

2009-09-18 Thread David Lankshear
I spent much of the evening browsing AM shortwave stations and can confirm
that the additional bass lift capability in 3.33 can be used to give a much
warmer sound.  I reduced the first couple of equaliser bands to +3dB and
with the full bandwidth possible with a 13kHz filter, a slight shift below
the FC Norm of 1.5 gives much warmer audio.  I did find that adjustment
varied depending on the voice being listened to in order to get the most
satisfying result.  In all cases, I did not go below the 1.05 setting to
achieve the most satisfactory sound with most being around the 1.30 mark.

 

Similar results were heard with SSB, and brought the K3 into line with good
sound from my K2 and a comms Rx, both of which rendered a warmer audio than
the K3 prior to beta 3.33.  Many thanks, Elecraft.

 

DaveL  G3TJP 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware preview: Much-improved receive AF bass response

2009-09-18 Thread David Lankshear
Wowee!  This could save me the trouble of modifying DSP board hardware.
I've asked to be

a beta tester on this, as I often browse the AM stations and have a 13kHz
filter installed.

 

I have 2 x K3's to modify and the first one is already stripped down and the
components

to be removed are marked.  I intended starting the mod after lunch today,
viz in 45 minutes.

 

73  DaveL  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware preview: Much-improved receive AF bass response

2009-09-18 Thread David Lankshear
Wowee!  This could save me the trouble of modifying DSP board hardware.
I've asked to be

a beta tester on this, as I often browse the AM stations and have a 13kHz
filter installed.

 

I have 2 x K3's to modify and the first one is already stripped down and the
components

to be removed are marked.  I intended starting the mod after lunch today,
viz in 45 minutes.

 

73  DaveL  G3TJP

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[Elecraft] VCO hash, stronger medicine needed

2009-08-24 Thread David Lankshear
Before installing the hardware and firmware mod to reduce VCO hash, my worst 
in-band problem was from 28.0 to 28.040MHz where hash gave an S4.   reading.  
There was also a patch of high level hash out of band around 5.0MHz.

After installing the complete mod, hash at the bottom of 28MHz reduced to S2 
while hash at 5MHz disappeared.  I trawled the entire tuning range of the K3 
today in order to log post-mod hash levels.  Weak hash was heard in a number of 
places but was strongest at the bottom of 28MHz.  A check with VCO MD SP1 set 
showed no change to 28MHz but hash levels elsewere increased.  Overall, the 
best results are found when the full VCO hash mod is installed, but 28MHz is a 
grave disappointment.

I've moved the TMP coaxials around, checked and re-checked the mod 
installation, metered the resistors and checked the diodes.  Everything is 
screwed down nice and tight, but there's still a problem on 28MHz.

If it should ever come to pass, dear Elecraft people, a dose of stronger 
medicine would be most welcome.

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] K2 - rough audio problem, and resolution

2009-08-23 Thread David Lankshear
This problem is described just in case anyone else suffers from an attack of 
configuration forgetfulness.

A T9x carrier on my K2 sounded decidedly T4; very rough indeed.  Transmit 
sounded fine, but received audio sounded "watery" and with a low audio 
frequency buzz superimposed on it.

I hadn't used the K2 for some time, as there were other toys to play with, and 
must confess to not being in a hurry to fix it.  

After several fruitless investigations, the "fault" was traced to my having set 
the KDSP2 to its most aggressive setting - and then forgetting how I'd left it. 
 

Doh!

73  Dave L  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 display size?

2009-08-21 Thread David Lankshear
I finally obtained an answer to my question..

The display area is 4.5 inches diagonal.  That's about the same screen size as 
my SatNav, assuming a similar aspect ratio. 

I was also unsure whether the display was LCD or OLED.  It has been confirmed 
that  it is a TFT LCD.

I'm certainly concerned about the size of the display.  It may well be able to 
display to VGA/XGA resolution, but I wonder if my eyes can cope with something 
so small.  At least my SatNav talks to me HI!

Maybe a video out connector for a PC monitor might be good to have.  That way, 
if a P3 is purchased but proves a bit too difficult for older eyes to resolve, 
there would always be the option of using a larger, outboard display while 
still retaining the K3/P3 functionality.

73  DaveL  G3TJP

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[Elecraft] P3 display size?

2009-08-17 Thread David Lankshear
I've probably missed something along the way, but just how big (height, width) 
will the active display be?

I've been reading all the P3 wishlists and am beginning to doubt if my meagre 
17 inch computer monitor could display it all.

For some of us older guys, it's not a matter of display resolution, it's what 
the old eyeball and glasses can eventually make out HI!  But seriously, if the 
display is small, it may prove impractical for some, which would be a great 
shame.

73 all.  Dave  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Tuning knob resistance too tight.

2009-08-08 Thread David Lankshear
I too was concerned when the tuning knob of my K2 #5551 was stiff, even without 
a felt washer or two.  The encoder shaft was very carefully scrutinised and no 
errant fibres were visible.

It was with reluctace I requested a replacement encoder, because I believe it's 
an expensive component, but Elecraft speedily provided one without hesitation.  
Wow!  What a difference that made!

At the time I offered to return the stiff encoder to Elecraft for examination, 
but they declined.  I still have the stiff encoder and the offer of its return 
to Elecraft still stands.

Great radio and outstanding backup.  

73 DaveL  G3TJP

K2/100 #5551
K3/100 #1122

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 BC Reception

2009-08-02 Thread David Lankshear
May I add a tiny voice in support of synchronous AM detection, too.  

I prefer to listen to a new BC station while I'm building stuff and SAM would 
improve the experience.  

Does anyone receive/listen to DRM (digital radio mondiale?

73 Dave Lankshear, G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 SCAN request

2009-07-16 Thread David Lankshear
Yes, I'd like that too, if it's possible to implement it.  Fingers crossed.

73  DaveL  G3TJP

drewko wrote:
Is there any reason why SCAN could not be made to operate on the
current paramters displayed in the VFOs? A lot of times I want to scan
a range without storing it in a memory location. As it is now, in
order to SCAN the current VFO settings you have to go through six
steps:
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 knob on a K2

2009-07-16 Thread David Lankshear
Tom, I found the K2's knob wouldn't fit the VFO B shaft as it was too small.

Thus I'd conclude that the K3's knob would be a loose fit on the K2's shaft.  
You could probably shim the shaft with some thin metal - like that you'd get 
from a drinks can.  Unless shimmed, I would guess it might not sit quite 
straight on the K2 encoder shaft, but with a little work, it should come right.

I have the Yaesu knob on my K2 and it's a very nice fit and has a better feel 
to it.

Hope that helps.

73  DaveL, G3TJP

Tom wrote:
Does the K3 knob work/fit on the K2?  It is pretty slick looking and would
be an easier option than the Yaesu knobs I've seen people getting...
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO tuning hash

2009-06-27 Thread David Lankshear
On my K3 #1122, I hear hash around 5MHz and a few other places on the bands, 
but it
is only noticeable if I am rotating the tuning knob quickly.  If I'm looking 
for signals, I'm 
turning the knob more slowly am not aware of hash.  Even if it is there, 
reproduced as 
individual pops, it has gone unnoticed.

So:

1. Hash is definitely present on my K3 and is most definitely NOT something 
received off-air.

2.  So far, it hasn't bothered me.

3.  Owing to 2, I don't recall where else I've heard it, other than at the 5MHz 
boundary when 
tuning quickly.

73 all.  Dave,  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K-2 Blue Display

2009-06-16 Thread David Lankshear
The K2 display is a soldered-in LCD that sits over a (soldered in) diffuser 
that is illuminated by LEDs incorporated into the diffuser.  To change colour, 
it would be neccessary to desolder both.  That's a tall order for a frail LCD 
display if you don't have the necessary skills and equipment.

Alternatively, the display could be sacrificed and replaced with a new one as 
the removal of individual pins is an easier task than removing around 40 of 
them, all attached to glass.  Whether or not the diffuser is available in 
different background colours is another question.

Some time ago, I refurbished a Yaesu Rx where one of the jobs was to replace 
all the LCD illumination bulbs that, barring one, had blown.  After removing 
the pea bulbs AND their sleeves, I decided to use LEDs instead.  Amber, green, 
blue and white were tried, but all looked pretty awful to me.  Eventually, I 
located a green-blue LED that closely matched the original colour, and they 
looked just fine.  It made me wonder whether LCDs are manufactured to suit a 
particular colour of illumination. 

DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

2009-05-15 Thread David Lankshear
I've rediscovered the pleasures of SWLing again and have spent much time 
snooping around the bands, particularly the broadcast bands.

There have been no band mapping problems here and no rig control software is in 
use as I'm into DIY HI!

But seriously, no problems at all encountered on v3.14 at my QTH, but I do so 
look forward to synchronous AM detection.

73 all.  DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio

2009-04-06 Thread David Lankshear
Thanks, Wayne.  I wanted to ask about the hissy and brittle audio on my own 
K3 a while back,
but at the time, certain forces on the reflector seemed intent on putting 
down such audacious
critique (NOT, I emphasise, anyone from Elecraft "central").

Instead, I chose to take the coward's option and just wait and tinker.  I 
have attached some pieces
of Dampamat, a material favoured by the car boom-box aficionados, to the 
underside of the K3's
top cover.  This improved the internal speaker's sound a little.  Next, my 
outboard recycled small
car pod speakers' cabinets were lined with Dampamat and their bass response 
was vastly improved.

By way of a tip for others, I bought the Dampamat originally because the two 
linear PSUs used to
power my K2 and K3 tended to hum appreciably on full load.  Steel cabinets 
in a strong 50Hz
magnetic field around big transformers make excellent transducers. 
Judicious application of
Dampamat to internal surfaces and on two out of four sides of the 
transformer laminations has
worked wonders.  If only they'd had ali cabinets instead HI!

I intend to create an infinite baffle (fancy name for a box without holes) 
around the K3's internal
speaker and cover it with Dampamat.  It's just a matter of finding a 
suitable potting box cover,
or making one from materials to hand.  That should improve the internal 
speaker's bass response
but will also reduce its efficiency a little.

I have many sets of headphones, so will address headphone audio in time, but 
I suspect a change
of coupling capacitors will be on the cards.

73   DaveL  G3TJP


>wayne burdick
>Mon, 06 Apr 2009 10:25:29 -0700
>Maarten,
>
>If you send me recordings of your K3 audio (and if possible, recordings
>of your other rig's audio for comparison), Lyle and I will listen to
>them and see if we think there's anything wrong (excessive hiss,
>harshness, etc.). This is certainly not the case with my K3 or any of
>those I've tested in my lab.
>
>If it turns out that nothing is broken, but that you perceive another
>rig to be better in some way, then we will try to improve the K3 to
>your satisfaction. Comparative recordings are the first step.
>
>73,
>Wayne
>N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com 

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[Elecraft] OT - Blown up IC in K2 linear PSU

2009-03-05 Thread David Lankshear
I wonder if anyone can help me find a TA7089M regulator IC, please?  I haven't 
found a source online.

My K2's linear PSU has been a Yaesu FP107, which has worked well for some time, 
but whilst adding overvoltage circuitry ton the PSU to provide additional 
protection, I made an error and zapped the regulator IC, a Toshiba TA7089M.  
It's in a TO5 can, which is what the "M" suffix indicates.

Would readers please be kind enough to take a quick rummage through their junk 
to see if one is hiding there?  I'd be VERY grateful.

Thanks for reading.

73  DaveL, G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta firmware rev. 2.82

2009-02-15 Thread David Lankshear
 Ah!  I must have been on an exact 5W setting when I did it, then, Joe.
Thanks for clearing that up.

I still think that as it's a calibration feature, it would make better sense
by being protected by the ability to turn it off.  I'd really like to hear
why a calibration feature sits there awaiting to pounce on the unwary.

73  DaveL  G3TJP


I said:
> So, if I'm tuning up through, say, a Z-Match into a doublet
> and power output is set to "around" 5 or 50W and press "Tune"
> in order to tweak the Z-Match, the initial (off-tune) complex
> impedance the K3 may see could very well cause the K3's output
> power to change to 5 or 50W and because of that, power ..

Joe replied:
Not quite ... If you set the power level to exactly 5.0 or 50
watts and press the Tune button the K3 will recalibrate.  If
you set the power to 4.9, 5.1, 49 or 51 watts it will not
recalibrate.
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta firmware rev. 2.82

2009-02-14 Thread David Lankshear
So, if I'm tuning up through, say, a Z-Match into a doublet and power output 
is set to "around" 5 or 50W and press "Tune" in order to tweak the Z-Match, 
the initial (off-tune) complex impedance the K3 may see could very well 
cause the K3's output power to change to 5 or 50W and because of that, power 
indication would be screwed up without my noticing it?  (Sorry for the long 
sentence, but BTDT.)

Surely, for something that is a calibration feature, it needs to be 
protected by an "on/off  switch"?  It isn't as though this is a new topic. 
I've seen it crop up a number of times in different forms on this reflector 
and have been waiting for the Aptos wizards to make power calibration a menu 
item.  Turn it on in the menu, have a few LED winky-blinkys to warn you're 
in Power Cal., do the job then turn it off in the menu.  I suppose there's 
some horribly technical reason for not doing it.

DaveL  G3TJP

Julian said:
> Why on earth not? I think you are confusing the situation
> with what happens when you press TUNE at 50 watts (which I
> personally think is a disaster that has already happened
> on many occasions, but that is another matter.)

Joe said:
To normalize the radio's output power for any valid test you
need to measure the single tone carrier power (e.g., CW).  If
you do that (press tune at 50 watts), you will recalibrate.
The recalibration will render any subsequent measurement
incompatible with previous measurements. 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Regarding the Power On Banner

2009-01-10 Thread David Lankshear
Hi Doug.

I played with this briefly yesterday before taking the rig down for some mods, 
so I  haven't been 
able to check it out.  I have a feeling that spaces entered by the user appear 
as underscores, 
so your period might just be "lost" in the underscore.  I put my serial number 
in the banner and 
the # looked most unsatisfactory with an underscore below it, but then, as I 
know my name, 
callsign, serial number and that the rig's a K3, I don't really need a power-on 
reminder just yet HI!

73 and a good 2009 to you.  DaveL  G3TJP___
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[Elecraft] EU source of components for small K3 mods.

2009-01-03 Thread David Lankshear
Over the last few years, the UK and EU have benefited from the exchange rate 
when purchasing Elecraft equipment, but our Pounds or Euros now buy far less 
Dollars.  This makes the purchasing of small components for K3 mods from 
Elecraft somewhat expensive.  Also, because of export overheads, it is 
burdensome for Elecraft to ship small orders overseas, so with Wayne's 
blessing, a UK business is offering to supply some items for K3 owners in the 
EU at very advantageous prices.

For example, a small component kit including the exact items for the K3AFMDKT, 
which also includes parts for Larry Phipps' suggested IF output to panadapter 
mod. (plus a couple of spare SMTs), is available posted to UK addresses for 
£3.50 or posted to EU addresses for £4.00.  The kit designation is K3MODKIT#1 
and a number of K3 owners in both the UK and EU have availed themselves of it 
already.

Other components e.g. for the Synth. ALC mod or the AF output mod are available 
individually on Mode Components' website, in SMT or leaded versions, so can be 
added to the order for a few pennies.  Parts not appearing in the component 
listing can be obtained and added to the list in a day or two.

See Mode Components website at http://www.modecomponents.co.uk 

Chris, who owns Mode Components, maintains a considerable library of spec. 
sheets for active devices and supplies copies with purchases as a matter of 
course, if he has them.  If you don't see what you want, drop Chris an email to 
sa...@modecomponents.co.uk.  You may find yourself pleasantly surprised, 
especially if the parts are made from "Unobtainium" HI!  Components are always 
carefully and appropriately bagged before shipping.  His turnround is fast and 
P&P charges are very fair.

A Happy 2009, everyone & 73  Dave L  G3TJP___
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RE: [Elecraft] K3: component location on circuit diagram

2008-12-24 Thread David Lankshear
Thanks Wayne and Patrick.  I was working with a set of printed diagrams and 
Patrick, you pointed me straight at it!

I still can't believe how I could have missed the top R/H corner of RF board 
diagram 1, but it will be well into Christmas day before I'll be able to sneak 
away into the shack to check to see if my printed diagram contains that 
information.

I knew where the components were physically located, but couldn't find them on 
the circuit diagram (map).

As is said in the UK, "I should have gone to Specsavers" HI!

Your help much appreciated.  Christmas will be that much better for your help.

73 all.  DaveL  G3TJP___
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[Elecraft] K3: component location on circuit diagram

2008-12-24 Thread David Lankshear
Happy Christmas, all.

What better time than the final hours of Christmas Eve to apply the mod, 
recently described by Wayne, that prevents damage to the audio output chip if a 
mono jack is inadvertently plugged into ext. sp. instead of a stereo jack?

Before commencing, I decided to locate C2 and C3, the two 470uF AF output 
coupling capacitors on the circuit diagram - and that's where I came off the 
rails.  I can't find them!  I know they are physically on the main RF board and 
sit between the AF amp on the DSP board and the KIO3, but scrutinising the maps 
has taken up a couple of hours, and I've become obsessed with finding them.

Can anyone please help put me out of my misery?...pass the bottle, please!

Season's Greetings to all and TIA.

Dave L  G3TJP___
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[Elecraft] {Elecraft] Re: Dodgy Site

2008-12-09 Thread David Lankshear
G4ILO said:
Given that web hosting is available for well under a tenner in the UK from
reputable hosts like 1+1, I don't know why someone would penny-pinch to the 
extent of using a dodgy free web host for their business site.

Ah, I would have been disappointed if you hadn't commented, Julian.

It's Chris's choice who hosts his longstanding website; FYI the hosting is run 
by another amateur, who's a friend of his.

The site is sound, otherwise he'd have been out of business long ago, so rather 
than pick over the bones, why not look at the meat of the issue?

Derogatory comments make me wish I'd never pestered him to provide a little 
Xmas deal for amateurs this side of the pond.

Season's Greetings.

DaveL  G3TJP___
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[Elecraft]Re:M0DXF, Dodgy Site

2008-12-09 Thread David Lankshear
David, M0DXF, your post under the above heading is rather confusing, padded as 
it is with quotes, quips and comment to yourself.  Furthermore, Chris is 
bewildered by what you sent to him, as he's asked me what the heck is going on. 
 Bear in mind he's not like some on here, glued to the Elecraft reflector.  
It's something that's quite new to him and as a busy guy with no Elecraft gear 
himsef (shame), the posts on here hold no interest for him.  On that basis, I 
suggest that if you wish to communicate with him, put it in a plain email 
rather than an extract of the reflector, which starts with "Hello Suspicious".  
IMO, that's just not on!

I gather, from your post on here and G4AON's direct email to me, the problem is 
with a LINK FROM the site and not the site itself.  Thus, I think it's fair to 
say that the site, which is successfully accessed by his customer base, holds 
no risk in itself.  I strongly suggest that this topic should not be aired here 
on the reflector and if you wish to discuss matters, email either me or Chris 
with text he can understand.

When he emailed me about the message he'd received, he mentioned that he'd 
already had some sales of the mod kits, posted out today.

73  Dave L  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Supply of K3AFMDKT in Europe

2008-12-08 Thread David Lankshear
David Ferrington, M0DXF wrote:

However, I have dealt with Mode Components on a few occasions and can 
thoroughly recommend them. 

Hopefully with no viral effects, David?  

I've just ordered a pile of bits from Mode Components to finish off 4 projects 
that are on the "go" here, plus 4 of his K3 kits.  One for my K3 and 3 for 
friends.  I also asked him to locate some 25 to 35W thickfilm resistors for me 
to complete another project and a pal of mine will be asking about a chip to 
resurrect yet another boat anchor.  Without people like Mode, we end up 
trashing good gear that's 99% functional.

Season's Greetings to all.

73  Dave L  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Supply of K3AFMDKT in Europe

2008-12-08 Thread David Lankshear
Dave G4AON wrote:

Mon, 08 Dec 2008 14:56:01 -0800
For some reason when I tried to visit the modecomponents web site my
Kaspersky Internet Security package went crazy with warnings about the
site trying to download malicious software to my PC. 


Dave, 
Various machines I run use Norton, Avira, AVG and Windows Defender, all fully 
up to date. 
I run different systems "just in case" one misses something.  I run bulletin 
boards and can't 
afford any "mistakes".
None has had a problem with this site, so you might care to check your 
Kaspersky, because 
it seems M0DXF hasn't had any problems, either.

I've just used Chris's site at www.modecomponents.co.uk to make up and forward 
an order so I 
can complete 4 ongoing projects plus I've also ordered 4 of his mod kits for 
friends and self.

I know the stuff will be posted tomorrow and I'll be soldering components in on 
Wednesday.

Season's Greetings, everyone.

73 Dave L  G3TJP___
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[Elecraft] K3: Supply of K3AFMDKT in Europe

2008-12-08 Thread David Lankshear

Components for the K3 AF mod K3AFMDKT and for Larry Phipps' suggested IF output 
to panadapter mod, plus spares, are available to the UK and EU as a single 
package from a UK source at a low price.  £3.50 posted to UK addresses and 
£4.00 posted to EU addresses.

A couple of years ago, I chanced upon Mode Components, run by Chris, G8CHW  and 
have placed some orders as a result.  He's always been utterly dependable and 
I've been impressed by the careful way in which his deliveries are packed and 
identified.  Even more impressive is the effort Chris has been prepared to put 
into searching for and obtaining components made of "unobtanium".  Without his 
help, a couple of boat anchors that were scrap have had new life soldered into 
them and are working well.  He provides a very "personal service" HI!

Over the last few years, UK and EU have benefited from the exchange rate when 
purchasing Elecraft equipment, but our Pounds or Euros now buys far less 
dollars.  This made the K3AFMDKT, at $10 plus shipping seem expensive, so I 
asked Chris if he could obtain the identical choke that Elecraft supply.  In 
typical fashion, Chris went digging and came up with the exact goods. 

Because of overheads involved in export, it is burdensome for Elecraft to 
export the K3AFMDKT, so this alternative kit is being offered to K3 owners in 
the UK and EU WITH Wayne's BLESSING.

See Mode Components website at http://www.modecomponents.co.uk and order part 
number K3MODKIT#1.

I can answer most queries due to involvement in this small project, contact me 
off list, or if you want to contact Chris, you can do so by email to [EMAIL 
PROTECTED]

Season's Greetings & 73  Dave L  G3TJP___
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[Elecraft] K3 Audio Upgrade Mod

2008-12-04 Thread David Lankshear
Bill, W4ZV wrote:


Make one!  http://www.al7fs.us/AL7FS5ATSprint2.html  (2nd pix down)

...and   http://www.qsl.net/n5ib/surface_mount/

73,  Bill

Thanks, Bill.  I heartily endorse this little device.  I built mine from a wire 
coathanger, a couple of fishing weights, a toothpick and a two-screw coupling 
cut from a choc-block connector.

After a wee bit of practice, I was happy to work with 0805-size components and 
larger.  I built a 23cm preamp for another amateur that used 0805's and it 
worked just fine.  I do use an Optivisor as an aid to my ageing and very short 
sighted eyeballs, but can honestly say I'm at ease with 0805s.  Solder paste, I 
believe, makes life easier due to its stickiness, but as it has a limited 
shelf-life and is rather expensive I have only heard stories of its being used 
successfully.

For SMT chip removal I've used a length of fine enamelled wire in a loop under 
pins.  As each pin is heated, the loop is pulled and as solder melts, the chip 
leg is lifted clear of the PCB.  I've never damaged a PCB doing this.  I 
believe Chipquik low melting point solder is very good (Wood's metal?) to aid 
removal by flooding the pins with the special solder, which remains liquid for 
a considerable time.  I believe there are special clean-up techniques using 
their flux to get PCB pads clean.  For soldering fine-pinned components, I just 
flood the pins with solder and then use solder wick to remove surplus.  Works 
fine for me.  For two or three connection SMTs I use two soldering irons and 
then a bit of solder-wick, pre-coated with additional flux from a flux pen, to 
clean up the pads.

I know this is tempting fate, but I can't remember the last trace I lifted, 
it's so long ago.  Just be careful and patient and allow yourself time to THINK 
about the approach you are using for each and every circumstance.  As amateurs, 
we are unlikely to be under serious time constraints when soldering, so don't 
rush into anything.

73  DaveL  G3TJP___
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[Elecraft]Re: K3 AF Upgrade Kit - alternative RF choke

2008-11-27 Thread David Lankshear

Dave, G4AON wrote:
With the Elecraft upgrade kit shipped to the UK costing over $20 for a
100 uH choke and two surface mount resistors (yes I know there are 4 in
the kit and two axial ones), I wound a choke and used two surface mount
resistors from my spares/repair kit. For anyone who is struggling to
justify buying a slim RF choke to fit between the K3 RF board and the
cover plate (needs to be no thicker than 0.275"), I made a 100 uH choke
using 15 turns of enamelled copper wire on a FT50-43 core and covered it
with clear heatshrink. I cannot really say the audio sounds any better
on my bookshelf speakers after changing the choke, but at least it
didn't cost much...

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80

A UK-based business will soon be able to supply the recommended chokes and
other components.  It should be of benefit to K3 owners in both the  UK and 
EU

so I'll post details on the reflector when available.

73 DaveL  G3TJP 


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[Elecraft] K3 TECH MD

2008-10-16 Thread David Lankshear
I've noticed that quite a few enquiries have been resolved by advising the 
enquirer to turn TECH MD to ON.  

I just wonder if there's any argument to support ever having TECH MD turned 
OFF?  Might it be just as well to set it permanently ON in a future firmware 
release, thus nipping many queries-yet-to-be-raised, in the bud, and maybe 
eliminating an unnecessary user option?

If I remember correctly, having read the reflector diligently, this was the 
very first firmware option I changed.

73  DaveL  G3TJP

K2/100 #5551
K3/100 #1122___
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 SSB Power Control and ALC Metering

2008-09-24 Thread David Lankshear
Thanks for that very useful guide, Wayne.  Much appreciated.

I searched to see if others had been written but failed to find any more, which 
is a pity because such gems seem worthy of  their own little archive "place".

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 now!

2008-08-29 Thread David Lankshear
Ed, I just noticed something different on a current KPA100 I'm building for 
someone and it may be the same with your K2.

The KPA100 PCB is an ROHS one with soldering lands gold plated.  I don't know 
if that has anything to do with what I've noticed, but it's something I never 
saw on the earlier roller tinned PCBs I've worked on - and there have been a 
few!

When inserting a component after bending its leads, if the leads are scraped as 
they are pushed into the plated through holes, sometimes a tiny whisker of 
tinning is scraped off the leads.  This could lead to shorts if left on the 
board, so now after insertion and soldering, I check carefully around the lead 
entry points on the component's side of the board and if I see a whisker, I 
brush it off with a small paintbrush.

As for tools for the job, I find a small pair of Spencer-Wells forceps (artery 
clamps, often used by fishermen to winkle the hook out of the innards of their 
catch), a pair of good tweezers and also a thin rod of - almost anything - with 
a blob of Blu-Tak (sticky stuff) on the end is so useful for swift retrieval of 
items that "think" they've escaped the soldering iron.  

Good luck with the construction, just follow the instructions and you'll have 
something to be proud of at the end.

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] ON4UN has a K3?

2008-07-28 Thread David Lankshear
A strange heading for a debate about which way to turn a knob HI!  

For reasons I don't understand, it's my instinct to turn the width knob 
clockwise to narrow the filter.  
Perhaps as I want "more narrowing" my instinct tells me that clockwise = more, 
but then that 
argument collapses when I want more width!  Every time I go in the wrong 
direction results in a 
chuckle and the mistake is corrected.

I don't wish for a change in the knob's function because, given time and 
practice, my "instinct" 
should learn to go in the other direction, and that will be fine by me.  
Indeed, I'm content to 
"learn how to" with this beautiful radio; I had to "learn how to" with every 
previous rig I've owned 
and so it shall be with the K3.

73 all.  Dave G3TJP

K2/100 #5551
K3/100 #1122
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[Elecraft] Viewing current firmware details

2008-07-17 Thread David Lankshear
I don't know whether it's my system or a website glitch, but if I click on 
the Elecraft site's software page display:


K3 Firmware FTP page  (Just for direct viewing of the current K3 firmware 
files.)


nothing happens, but if I right click, selecr properties and copy and paste 
the URL into the address line, it displays the list of current software 
downloads at:


ftp://ftp.elecraft.com/K3/firmware

I wouldn't be surprised if it's my system because I've always had a talent 
for smashing Windows.  It would be a first. though, to know it wasn't my 
system.


73  DaveL  G3TJP 


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[Elecraft] K3. Just my luck

2008-07-01 Thread David Lankshear
Construction of #1122 was going fine.  The front panel went on easily after 
removing that obstructive screw in the 2D block.  It was time to fit the left 
side panel when a problem was encountered.

The DSP printed circuit board had not been trimmed correctly during 
manufacture, leaving a 1/4" strip down the PCB's left hand side, effectively 
preventing the left side panel from fitting.

It's clearly surplus PCB material and I'm awaiting a reply from Elecraft 
support, to whom I've sent a photograph.  There are several possible solutions, 
but I don't want to be held responsible for damaging what must be an expensive 
component.

New kit constructors might well check their DSP boards, just in case.  The 
strip of PCB is plain, unetched and has a groove cut on both sides to mark the 
edge of the finished PCB.  Better to spot problems before getting as far as I 
have.  I noticed (and trimmed off)  fibreglass whiskers on several PCBs and 
wonder if, once etched, boards are scored and snapped apart? 

Ho hum.  I suppose there's always the jungle (aka garden) to cut back pending 
action in accordance with Elecraft's advice.  Malédiction!

73 DaveL  G3TJP

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[Elecraft] OT Best wishes to N0SS

2008-06-30 Thread David Lankshear
Tom Hammond, N0SS, a fine amateur and gentleman in the truest sense is due to 
undergo major abdominal surgery on July 1st.

Best wishes, Tom, our thoughts are with you and Jeri.  Hope you're soon 
fighting fit and we can share many more "Elecraft moments" with you.

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] Re: Shipping Cost to Australia

2008-06-25 Thread David Lankshear
It cost $350 (USD) to ship 2 x K3 and bits to the UK (#1122 and #1123).  The 
large box arrived very quickly, which wasn't important, and safely which was.  
UK VAT of 17.5% was added to the total of the invoice, including the shipping 
cost.  I'd have been happy for the gear to come by sea mail (about 8 weeks from 
California) but it was all down to methods Elecraft use and the insured value 
of the package ($5400 USD hardware plus $350 USD carriage).

Mr UPS was (understandably) RAZOR keen to get a cheque for the duty and 
handling charge ($518 USD).

(and I wonder why only immigrants still want to live in the UK HI! )

The latest errata has been printed, so next job on is an inventory - sometime 
soon.

73 All  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-15 Thread David Lankshear
I haven't been able to locate this information in the documentation, so perhaps 
a kind soul could oblige?

In anticipation of a K3/100 kit's arrival, I would like to know the length of 
power cord supplied and also whether the K2/100 power cable is interchangeable 
with the K3/100 (i.e. do the Andersons have the same orientation on K2 and K3)? 

Many thanks.

DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] K2 - signal loss in band-pass filter

2008-06-03 Thread David Lankshear
>From postings on the reflector, it would seem that more than a few of K2 8v 
>regulators are on the low side, including mine.

I've just ordered a couple from a local supplier to see if they are any better, 
but if they are not, I will "jack up" the ground lead of the 8v regulator by 
connecting a diode in series with it - i.e. interposed between the regulator's 
ground lead and the ground it was connected to.  A silicon diode like a 4148 
(or 4001 to 4007) will effect about a 0v6 increase in output voltage and a 
schottky or germanium diode will give about 0v2 to 0v3 increase.

Of course, this "jacking up" compromises the regulator's inbuilt short circuit 
protection but in a stable environment like the K2 it can either be accepted 
that it is unlikely to ever be called to work into a short circuit, or a 
reverse connected diode can be introduced between output and ground as 
protection. 

73   DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] server access denied

2008-05-27 Thread David Lankshear
Yes, same here.

I like to see all messages, with the latest message at the top, hence use of 
this list.  For the last couple of days this server has been "unwell" and not 
up to date and now it's even more sick HI!  It needs a good dose of K3 
Mojo..

Seriously, thanks for the service and I hope it recovers soon.

73 DaveL   G3TJP
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[Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

2008-05-13 Thread David Lankshear
Same for me.  I would like my (forthcoming) K3 to feature storable ATU bypass 
settings, as described by G4ILO.

DaveL  G3TJP

==

I agree completely

David
G3UNA


>
> I am one of the people who requested that the ATU active / bypass settings
> could be stored along with ANT 1 / 2. The reason was that the antenna I
> don't want the ATU in circuit for is externally tuned. I still need to put
> out a tuning signal, and I guess that having the ATU in circuit might
> confuse the SWR readings when I am tuning. At the back of my mind I was
> probably also thinking that the KAT would auto-retune in the presence of a
> high SWR, like the external SGC tuners do.
>
> Even though there is a workaround of tuning the ATU into 50 ohms, I would
> still like to have the ATU in / out settings stored. The reason is that I
> have to remember which of two TUNE buttons to press depending on which
> antenna I am using. If I am using the externally tuned antenna and the ATU
> is active and I press ATU TUNE instead of TUNE by mistake, the KAT will 
> try
> to match the antenna, and my previous adjustment of it into 50 ohms will 
> be
> lost. If the ATU is automatically bypassed when I select the antenna that
> doesn't need it, nothing happens if I press the button in error. And 
> believe
> me, I often press things in error.
>
> -
> Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392 
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[Elecraft] Import duties on amateur radio items

2008-04-08 Thread David Lankshear
Quote

This raises a question in my mind for you VAT payers.  If 
you pay the VAT, and then discover that your item has been 
more or less destroyed in shipping, do you get any refund on 
the VAT?  What happens on the replacement item, assuming you 
get one?  Perhaps your comment about the replacement part 
suggests you wouldn't pay the VAT twice.

Dave W7AQK

Dave, Don't forget the postal service's "handling" fee, which is another 
addition to the
UK's 17.5% VAT.

Oh, and you'd  likelystand a better chance of piking butter up a porcupine's 
a55 with
a red hot shovel than getting a refund from Her Majesty's Customs and Excise!  

Fortunately, replacement components I've needed have had a shipped value below 
the VAT threshold, so they've come through unchallenged.  HMC&E are a law unto
themselves and once rendered one (constructed) piece of equipment I imported 
into a 
kit, having even dismantled and destroyed some of the components.  Complaints 
in all
directions including my MP received approximately the same response:
Tough!

I just hope there's never a need to return a K3 module to Elecraft for repair as
that could well prove interesting.  In theory, VAT would be chargeable on the 
repair
cost, return shipping and insurance as that's the service provided, but if they 
decided
to assign their own value to the item, it would probably prove impossible to 
change 
their assessment.

73 DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] Re: question

2008-02-03 Thread David Lankshear
When fitting the KPA100, any of the items normally fitted in the QRP version 
lid (KI02, KAT2, 
battery) are removed (including the lid).  The KPA100 occupies the space they 
formerly resided
in.  The normal layout is to fold the K2's tilt bail and stand it on top of the 
KAT100.  
You end up with a spare QRP-ready lid, which is easily swapped with the KPA100 
if you want
to go back to QRP occasionally, or you can sell it. 

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] K3 filter performance

2008-01-27 Thread David Lankshear
Sorry to ask this of the list, but there's been so much comment on K3 filters, 
I seem to be going round in circles trying to find where, if anywhere, 
evaluations have been done on the 5-pole filters.  I'm resigned to never 
getting my detectve's badge, Sherlock.  HI!

Elecraft have (most of?) the 8-pole ones on the website but I'd like to compare 
those details with similar tests done on the 5-pole.

Also, there has been mention of variable filters.  As new orders placed now are 
estimated for May shipping, perhaps the varibles would be available by then, so 
is there any technical information on them yet, please?

73 all.  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft]Re: A happy K2 post - for a change......

2008-01-25 Thread David Lankshear
First of all, apologies for the lng lines in my earlier post.  I wrote the 
item using a wordprocessor then cut and 
pasted it into an email window.

Thanks for the suggestions from Ron, Tom and Steve re. the felt washer fibres, 
but it was absolutely and definitely 
NOT that.

The original encoder was so stiff the felt washer wasn't put to use and the 
first thing I checked was where the shaft 
rotated in the body.  I've built other K2's and the encoder in mine was far 
stiffer to rotate, straight out of the bag,
 than the others.  I fitted it and used it in the hope that it would free up 
after a while but it didn't.  

Neal mailed me off-list to ask what RTFM meant.  It's such a common expression 
here in the UK, that it 
didn't occur to me that it might be unknown elsewhere.  Its approximate 
translation, although other words are
sometimes substituted for the one starting with "f", is "Read the flipping 
manual".   YMMV.

73 all.  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] A happy K2 post - for a change......

2008-01-24 Thread David Lankshear
I'd been unhappy with the stiffness of my K2's rotary encoder for a while, so 
when a replacement unit was provided by Scott, I thought it was time for a 
makeover of my fully loaded K2/100.

The new rotary encoder was definitely an improvement. The original encoder was 
stiff to turn, even in the absence of the felt washer friction pad, but the new 
encoder was so free-running, I had to dig out and install that piece of felt. 
Thanks a million, Scott, the feel of the rig has been improved immensely.

I also took the opportunity to replace the AF gain pot, which had a wobbly 
knobbly. It had no effect on performance, but every time I moved the AF gain 
control, I was distracted by the knob's wobble.

While the lid was off, I decided to do a complete realignment. Again, I found a 
good setting of L34 difficult to achieve. For me, Spectrogram, with its 
ever-changing display, proved unhelpful but very careful listening to a weak 
signal from my genny on 14MHz found a gentle but significant dip in the 
background noise. AGC voltage setup range ran up to 3.83v and at ALL settings, 
the AGC reduced the level of a very weak (S1 or less) signal. Eventually I 
settled on 3.68v as the one that had least effect on a signal just above the 
noise floor, but there should have been a point where the AGC action cut off..

It was interesting to note that after several months of use, slight 
improvements could be made to most settings, either because a "bedding in" had 
taken place or my values had changed. 

I was very impressed with the residual carrier suppression on SSB. I used a GC 
Rx with antenna to monitor the carrier level on SSB when transmitted into 
another antenna. The antennas were only a few feet apart, but a small 
adjustment left only a very weak residual carrier on SSB. It was lower than the 
1uV level from the Elecraft XG2!

I found that the screws on one of the KPA100 PA transistors could be tightened 
by maybe a little less than 1/8 of a turn. The other was yomped down good and 
tight. A slight improvement of SWR eedback was achieved and the PA bias setting 
proved far more docile to adjust than my recollection of it when newly 
constructed. There was far less "drift" as the transistors warmed up.

I then went off the rails. It was my intention to check higher power output 
against a "reasonable" wattmeter. When I held "Tune", regardless of the higher 
power setting, I only saw 22W until I moved the power output control. Somewhat 
bewildered, I took a break to allow my limited mental resource to do a spot of 
background processing. Sure enough, the back of my mind came up trumps. Tune 
limits the output to approx, 2W in QRP and 20W in QRO. Press Tune and Display 
to override. Yep! Another case of RTFM!  Doh!

I did find one parameter of 8-somethingorother was set to "nor" and not to 
"hold" as the KPA100 manual instructs, but switching between its original 
setting and the instructed setting didn't seem to make any difference. 
Eventually, I went with the manual's recommended setting.

Overall, I reckon to have squeezed a little more out of the K2.  I haven't been 
able to get an audio report on the slightly changed SSB filter settings but 
prior to adjustment, I had good reports on SSB audio, despite my rather deep 
voice. I've moved the notional baseline of all the filters available in SSB up 
by 50Hz approx. Time and a co-operative local who knows my voice will tell.

Was it worth it. Most definitely YES. Some settings had either drifted slightly 
or my interpretation had changed. I managed to reduce tuning display inaccuracy 
from approx 30Hz to less than 10Hz and make improvements to a few more 
settings. Were they significant? NO, I doubt it, but it DID provide a refresher 
course and it leaves me satisfied for the time being. It's good to touch base 
occasionally.

As with all home constructed equipment, there's always a nagging feeling that 
"something" can be improved upon. Is this the eternal treadmill to which we are 
all consigned? It's an undoubted YES for me.

As recommended on my bulletin board, think twice, post once.

73 all, DaveL G3TJP
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[Elecraft] K3 Roofing Filters - Zerobeat

2007-12-10 Thread David Lankshear
270 x 2 = 540, so  the difference is 356Hz.  ;-)

73, Season's Greetings all.  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] Question: Over-voltage protection (OVP) for K2, K1

2007-10-29 Thread David Lankshear
That's fine for a barefoot K2, Alan, but what about the K2/100?

Re Matt's comment - surely you don't need current sense resistors for an over 
VOLTAGE trip?  Generally, the minimum component count for a brute force crowbar 
is 4.  SCR, zener, resistor, capacitor.

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] US Postal Service Express Mail to UK - rubbish!

2007-10-29 Thread David Lankshear
It sounds like UK Customs have their claws into it.  That usually adds between 
1 and 2 weeks to the delivery.  If it's a parcel, you'll get a letter from 
Parcel Farce charging you 17.5% VAT on the commodity plus cost of carriage and, 
depending on its category, import duty plus £8 handling fee.  If it's a small 
package, it'll be handled the same way by Royal Snail.

I'm awaiting delivery of a $71 package that will probably cost me an additional 
$38.

Sorry to be a potential harbinger of doom and hope it gets cleared soon.

73 DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] Lost speaker audio in K2

2007-09-12 Thread David Lankshear
The headphone jack seems to be the K2's achilles heel, Steve.  It's something 
that crops up on here from time to time.

After completing my K2 I had no speaker audio but headphones were OK, so had to 
swap out the headphone jack.  Elecraft were like lightning sending a 
replacement all the way across the pond.

My friend's K2 had very low speaker volume and a replacement headphone jack 
fixed that too!

Before pulling it apart, though, do check you have the speaker connector 
plugged into the 2-pin connector on the main RF board and not the 2-pin 
location with the same designator on the control board.  Also, check your 
speaker from that point with an ohm-meter, just to be absolutely certain it's 
not a problem with the extension speaker jack.

73  Dave L  G3TJP

PS.  Do like I did and invest in an additional spare headphone jack.  That way, 
Murphy's law will be defeated and it will never ever give you any more trouble. 
 Meanwhile, the spare jack will slowly gather dust HI!
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[Elecraft] KDSP2 reset query

2007-08-26 Thread David Lankshear
Hi everyone.  Is there a quick means of resetting the KDSP2 back to its factory 
default settings?

I've been playing and have created something akin to a Gordian knot and wish to 
go back and start again.  If the answer is in the manual, I'll be darned if I 
can see it.

Thanks in advance and 73 all.  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] Re: Made my first contacts on my K2

2007-08-21 Thread David Lankshear
My friend's K2 was noticeably and consistently lacking in speaker audio when 
compared with mine.  The problem was traced to the headphone jack socket (NOT 
the soldering) and after replacement, his K2 was fine.  (Just something else to 
check, as problems with the headphone jack seem to crop up occasionally.)

73 DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] Re: Hate the word "ham"

2007-06-23 Thread David Lankshear
To me, HAM will always be boiled pig, but then at my age, I don't feel strongly 
about what I'm called.

Regrettably, I never had an individual "Elmer" but will always be grateful to 
the many from whom I've drawn advice, knowledge, encouragement and camaradie.

I'm not a very active "ham" but thanks to those who helped me, I've enjoyed the 
hobby immensely and am grateful that I've been able to help a few others along 
the way.

What's in a name?  Not a lot as far as I'm concerned.  I'm proud that I passed 
my amateurs' exam over 40 years ago and proud that I became proficient in morse 
code.  Part of me regrets the "dumbing down" of standards during my lifetime, 
but I also appreciate that much of it was necessary for the hobby's future 
survival.

Standards change from generation to generation; some I embrace and some I don't 
like.  Maybe it's as well that the inevitable tag of SK catches up with us all 
after our allotted span?

73  Dave:  G3TJP


 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Have You Seen This?

2007-06-14 Thread David Lankshear
Since completing my K2 last year, I have had precisely one SSB QSO and that was 
to gain assurance that my KSB2 was working OK.

A couple of mics have been rewired to fit the K2, which is my one and only rig. 
  I do have a set of rework eliminators and have found them so very useful when 
working on other K2s as well as my own - BUT - although I'm impressed with its 
ingenuity, I feel that I have no NEED for this particular mic configuration 
accessory.

On the other hand, I can't resist things that exercise my constructional skills 
and spend more time wielding a soldering iron for friends (or touting them for 
constructional work) than operating on-air.

73 DaveL G3TJP
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[Elecraft] K2 frequency adjustment

2007-04-16 Thread David Lankshear
Today I decided to recalibrate my K2 using a very accurate 10MHz source, as 
well as replacing C31 in the KPA100 (Rev. D) to bring it up to the latest Rev. 
E.

 

After leaving both the 10MHz source and the K2 turned on all day to stabilise, 
I made a start but the first problem encountered was that the filters were just 
too darned good and wouldn't let me find zero-beat.  Plenty 10MHz signal was 
available and the S-meter lit up with a full line of li'l green apples, but as 
zero beat was approached, both the S-meter reading and audio dropped out of 
sight.

 

To get round this problem, I altered the LSB widest filter (2.4kHz - OP 1) down 
in frequency and found a healthy S-meter reading could be maintained.  The low 
beat note could both be seen (highest LED flickering in time with the beat) and 
heard as a slow rise and fall in background noise. 

 

 Unfortunately, I was distracted by an artefact that appeared only when an SSB 
filter was selected with no antenna connected.  There was a crackling/crunching 
sort of noise that was not present on any CW setting or filter.  During the 
hunt for the culprit, I found that if a finger was dabbed on the cathode of D4 
(DSB output from BM to xtal filter) the problem cleared up.  Also, if a finger 
was dabbed on T2, the problem went away.  Further finger-dabbing along the xtal 
filter was unhelpful as I was acting as an antenna.  Soldering was checked and 
re-done but the problem remained, so D4 bit the dust and was replaced with a 
new 1N4148.  No improvement.

 

Ah well, time was passing, so I thought I'd return to the calibration task.  No 
problems were encountered and the task was completed successfully.  CAL PLL was 
followed by a CAL FIL where the adjusted LSB filter was returned to its 
previous setting and all other filter settings were moved around before 
restoring them to their original settings.  I noted the last digit of the BFO 
frequency had decremented by 1 in every case.

 

After this, I was pleased to note that the nasty background noise previously 
heard when SSB was selected had disappeared, so I'm thinking it was an artefact 
caused by everything warming up and drifting.  Now I shall check tomorrow to 
see if the artefact has moved and is present when the rig is cold.

 

Changing C31 in the KPA doesn't appear to have made any difference to its 
operation, so what was it for?  The PA's power output reading still tends to 
jitter around by +/-10% or so when running into a high quality 50 ohm dummy 
load.



73  DaveL  G3TJP


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[Elecraft] Norcal Sierra - Wilderness Radio Sierra - Dans Small Parts

2007-03-10 Thread David Lankshear
Andy, just my 2-bitsworth as a fellow G.

I ordered a kit from Norcal in early January to give me some experience in 
building with SMDs.  It wasn't despatched quickly, so be prepared for a long 
wait.

Some incorrect SMD capacitors were supplied and they were notified of that a 
month ago.  The request was acknowledged with a promise of replacements, but 
the parts still haven't arrived and a polite enquiry has fallen on deaf ears, 
so the small kit remains unbuilt.  I have, however, obtained and built three 
fairly complex SMD-populated units from the US for friends in the interim, so 
building the Norcal is now largely an irrelevance.
 
Their response might be different for North Americans - indeed, it may be just 
my personal misfortune here on this side of the pond, but one thing I'm sure of 
is that nothing beats Elecraft, whose response, communication and service are 
without doubt the best in the business.

Good luck with whatever you build.

73 DaveL  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] I fried my N-Gen module

2007-02-28 Thread David Lankshear
Yep, been there, got the tee-shirt!  A sniff of RF zaps the MMIC and creates 
the Homer effect (DOH!).

Murphy's law states that if it can possibly go wrong, it will do so at the most 
inconvenient moment.  I seem to prove Murphy's law most days HI!

Email Elecraft to get a price, you may be pleasantly surprised.  Their service, 
friendliness and communication is the best I've ever encountered.  Thanks, guys 
and gals, take a bow, you're really appreciated!

73 all.  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] Toroids - Effect of Winding Spacing on Inductance andDistributed Capacitance

2007-02-26 Thread David Lankshear
Not here in the UK at 22:56z.  My goodness, what sort of ISP is he using?  Been 
trying on and off all evening.

73 all.  DaveL  G3TJP
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