[Elecraft] FS: K3/100/P3 rig - like new.

2012-01-19 Thread Dohn Smythe
I have for sale the following;

1.  K3/100 - serial #5131
2.  Kat3 - K3 ATU
3.  KTCXO3-1  -  K3 KCXO 1ppm f/w correction to 0.5ppm
4.  KXV#A - Rx Antenna, IF Out and Xverter Interface
5.  KFL3A-200 - K3 200 Hz, 5 pole filter
6.  Two KFL3A-500 - Two K3 500Hz filters(one for each receiver.  This rig has 
two)
7.  K3FLTMATCH - K3 5 pole matching to 40 Hz.
8.  KRX3 - K3 2nd RX Module
9.  KBPF3 - K3 General coverage module (outstanding out of band coverage)
10. P3 - K3 Panadapter 
11. KUSB - Universal Serial Bus Adapter
12. MH2 - Hand Held microphone for K2/K3

1 year ago I purchased this rig for $4388.00.  This entire rig is priced at 
$3350.00, shipped to you, to sell quickly.  If this rig has 3 hours of use I 
would be surprised.  It is just like new.  I have all the manuals and sheets of 
course.

I would be willing to meet someone half way for a person to person delivery.  
Within reason of course.

73
Dohn Smythe  N8EWY
n8...@comcast.net
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[Elecraft] FS: W2 Wattmeter/SWR Bridge + 2 couplers

2011-06-05 Thread Dohn Smythe
I am reposting this item as the first deal fell through.  Sheesh!

I have a brand new Elecraft W2 Wattmeter/SWR Bridge and 2 couplers.  One 
coupler included with the order.  The other, was for use on my smaller rigs.  
This Wattmeter is an outstanding addition to my K3 system but is excessive when 
I already had a quite accurate meter on hand.  I never hooked the Elecraft 
meter up.  All connectors are included.

The two couplers are the 0.1-200 W and 1-2000 W sensors for 1-54 MHz.

Price $260 shipped to you in the states.



Dohn Smythe
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[Elecraft] FS: W2 Wattmeter/SWR Bridge + 2 couplers

2011-06-03 Thread Dohn Smythe
I have for sale a brand new W2 Wattmeter with a 200 watt and 2Kilowatt coupler. 
(1.8 - 54MHz).  The wattmeter works great.  As do both couplers.

Purchased new this combo costs $330 and shipping.

I will take $260, shipped to you in the States

Contact me at n8...@comcast.com

Dohn Smythe
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[Elecraft] K3 + W2

2011-02-20 Thread Dohn Smythe
Is there an accurate way to utilize a W2 with the K3/ATU combo?  Seems that 
with the W2 between the output of the K3 and the Antenna, the peak reading 
would not be accurate.  Especially at QRO power settings.  I don't remember 
seeing anything in either of the menus that would assist with that.
73 
Dohn Smythe  N8EWY
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[Elecraft] Mapping PF1 and PF2 queswtion

2011-02-20 Thread Dohn Smythe
Have there been any discussion threads about people mapping out their 
programmable buttons and memories.  I mean, for a newcomer to a UI as in-depth 
as the K3, it would be very interesting to see what others have done with them. 
Those that have had the benefit of several years operating experience with the 
K3 as well as all the programmable keyboards, keyers, digital mode modems and 
the like. I realize it's sort of cheating as these things came from many 
years of trials and tribulations.

I just know that there is a lot of potential for all the personal preferences 
with the Macros, PFBs and memories.  There have to be several that are common 
to most HAMs these days.  I use a little rtty.  Some code and SSB.  QRP and 
QRO.  I sort of dabble with it all.  I suspect not much different than many of 
you.

My goal is to eventually be in a position to contest.  Thank you for the 
bandwidth.  I think I'll duplicate this note to the yahoo site for what it's 
worth.
73
Dohn Smythe  N8EWY
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[Elecraft] K3/P3 question

2011-02-09 Thread Dohn Smythe
It doesn't seem like the VFO center freq on the K3 is making it's way over to 
my P3.  At the top, in the center, it always read 0.00 for a freq.  The RS232 
to RS232 cable is attached firmly and I assume it's communicating at whatever 
BAUD the K3 assigns.  Yet, there is NO center freq. listed on the top center of 
the P3.

Any suggestions?
73
Dohn Smythe   N8EWY
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[Elecraft] Disregard High Power TX gain failure

2011-02-06 Thread Dohn Smythe
Greg ab7r hit it on the head.  I didn't have my PS amps up  enough.  Cranked 
her up and the TX gain test went like nobody's business.  I will be making my 
first contact with this rig today.  I will post here before I go on the air.

73

Dohn Smythe  N8EWY
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[Elecraft] High Power TX gain failure

2011-02-05 Thread Dohn Smythe
Just putting the finishing touches on my K3/100 build.  What a treat.  I loved 
puttin this thing together so far.  I got thru the 5 watt Tx gain just dandy.

I CANNOT get her to perform the High power gain calibration.  I start at 160 
meters as instructed.  Whether by manual means or by using the K3 utility, as 
soon as I hit tune (maybe a second later) the whole shootin match shuts down.  
The swr must go up too high.

I've got it tapped into an MFJ-250 versaload.  The old gallon can and the oil 
level is up there.  It just isn't calibrating.  It doesn't like something when 
it gets a whif of 50 watts.  I tried about 20 watts into a 20 watt 
DL-1.  Same thing.  Something just isn't right.

Any suggestions where to start looking?  I have a feeling it's something 
simple.  Who knows?

73
Dohn Smythe  N8EWY
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[Elecraft] Encoder was no good

2011-01-31 Thread Dohn Smythe
Thank you for the suggestion to swap the encoders.  I did it and sure enough, 
the problem switched from VFO A to VFO B.  I'll make a call this morning and 
see about getting another sent out asap.

Thanks again.  I should have thought of that myself.  I'm gettin old.

73
Dohn Smythe  N8EWY
n8...@comcast.net
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[Elecraft] K3 Stumped.

2011-01-30 Thread Dohn Smythe
Fellas,
I am firing up my K3 for the second time.  I wanted to begin to do the 
synthesizer calibration.

When I tap Menu, it goes to LCD CRT and can be adjusted by VFO A.  I CANNOT 
access any other menu item.

When I hold CONFIG, It says CONFIG briefly in VFO B window and as soon as I 
let up, I am in the TIME configuration.  It can be adjusted by VFO A as it 
should.  BUT when I turn VFO B it WILL NOT switch out the config menu.  It 
won't go from one config item to another.  

For some reason, my VFO B does not seem to be responding.  I'm sure I'm doing 
something wrong.

I have not done anything else.  Should I download updates and install them 
first?  What am I missing?  Something simple I hope.

73
Dohn Smythe  N8EWY
n8...@comcast.net
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[Elecraft] One more thing

2011-01-30 Thread Dohn Smythe
To be a little clearer, when I press and hold CONFIG, it says config at VFO B 
window and when I let up VFO A window says what versions of firmware I have and 
window B says FW REVS

uC = 4.25
d1 = 2.71
d2 = 0.00
FL = 1.14

VFO B's knob does NOT seem to be responding.  It is not locked as far as I can 
tell.

73
Dohn Smythe 
N8EWY
n8...@comcast.net
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stumped.

2011-01-30 Thread Dohn Smythe
I checked the encoder and it was connected properly.  I can't help but thinking 
I'm doing (or not) doing something right.  Seems easy enough.

If this hasn't been a commonly made mistake, I have to wonder about the encoder 
at VFO B.
73
Dohn Smythe  N8EWY
n8...@comcast.net

- Original Message -
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
To: Dohn Smythe n8...@comcast.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 19:14:45 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stumped.

I would check connections on the VFO B encoder with the circuit board or look 
for a short.  Then, if that does not show anything, give up.  Actually, I would 
give up -- my next step being to call Elecraft support.  Or, alternatively, 
call Elecraft support first.

Good luck,
73, phil, K7PEH


On Jan 30, 2011, at 9:37 AM, Dohn Smythe wrote:

 Fellas,
 I am firing up my K3 for the second time.  I wanted to begin to do the 
 synthesizer calibration.
 
 When I tap Menu, it goes to LCD CRT and can be adjusted by VFO A.  I CANNOT 
 access any other menu item.
 
 When I hold CONFIG, It says CONFIG briefly in VFO B window and as soon as I 
 let up, I am in the TIME configuration.  It can be adjusted by VFO A as it 
 should.  BUT when I turn VFO B it WILL NOT switch out the config menu.  It 
 won't go from one config item to another.  
 
 For some reason, my VFO B does not seem to be responding.  I'm sure I'm doing 
 something wrong.
 
 I have not done anything else.  Should I download updates and install them 
 first?  What am I missing?  Something simple I hope.
 
 73
 Dohn Smythe  N8EWY
 n8...@comcast.net
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[Elecraft] For Sale - Great Value - Accurate Instrument

2008-07-22 Thread Dohn
I have for sale an LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter by N8LP.  I am the
original owner of this piece.  Serial number 340.  I assembled it.  I packed
it up and drove straight to Larry's shack for a greenlight checkup,
additional programming and calibration.  My experiences with kit
construction leading to this project were the construction of a K1, K2/100,
KX1, several smaller shack test equipment kits and some SMT work.  These
kits worked FB for me right off the bench.

Read reviews at:
http://www.telepostinc.com/Telepost.pdf
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5981 

Larry's information regarding the Wattmeter:
http://www.telepostinc.com/ 

View the extensive list of free software available:
http://www.telepostinc.com/LP-100-Update.html 

INCLUDED in this package are:

1.  LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter - assembled and calibrated as of the
time of project completion around January 07.  Current Firmware version is
v.1.1.47.

2.  Standard LPC-1 Directional Coupler (1.8-54 MHz) 1500 Watts. 2500W Peak.

3.  Connecting cables between coupler and main unit (current and voltage
sampling), and power cable with tinned ends for connection to +12VDC.

4.  Printed manual.

5.  Access to and support for Software pieces, Virtual Control Panel (VCP),
Polar Plot and Plot.  These programs enhance, tremendously, the already
impressive list of functions included with your LP-100.  Virtual Control
Panel allows you to operate remotely and from your computer and can now be
integrated with TRX-Manager.  Of course, technical assistance is available
and Larry has always been prompt and thorough in this arena. 

6.  Buyer will need to supply RS232 cable to connect the LP-100 to his/her
computer.

Unit is in excellent condition.  Can supply pics if necessary.

LP-100 assembled and calibrated, LPC-1 directional coupler, connecting and
power cables and manual - $399.  Contact me offline and we can discuss terms
and/or details.

Dohn Smythe
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] KX1 antenna help

2008-02-06 Thread Dohn
Hello all.

 

I am wondering what the groups opinions are about the best end fed antenna
lengths would be for taking my newly built KX1 mobile?  

 

I have a bunch of #534 wire from wireman coming today.  My KX1 has the 30/80
board and ATU on board as well.

 

I would assume that radials would be appropriate.  How many?  How long?

 

Thank you in advance for your comments.

 

Dohn  N8EWY

 

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RE: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

2008-01-04 Thread Dohn
Shaun,

For materials needed vs. radio theory, you just can't beat a G5RV antenna.
IMHO I've used mine with my K1, K2 and several home brew projs and it works
great time and again.  Yes, you want to get the center up there a ways.  Say
around 35-40 feet, but the payoff was good for me.  There are a number of
sites out there that have good versions of a very old, classic antenna.
Very few parts (all of which can be made with junk around the house.  Very
little investment for a sound payoff.

Dohn   N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Shaun Oliver
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 9:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

Hi all,
if I were to make a dipole, would coiling it round a piece of plastic 
piping decrease the efficiency of the thing? I intend on making one for 
40 meters, one for 80 meters, and one for 10 meters. I've worked out 
that1 meter of piping will suffice for each leg of each antenna.
thanks in advance.
shaun
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[Elecraft] KXAT1 vs. T1-K

2008-01-04 Thread Dohn
Any opinions out there about pros or cons of these two tuners?  If one were
going to build a KX1 from the ground up, would either of these tuners be
preferable to the other in general??   Why???

 

Dohn N8EWY

 

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[Elecraft] OT: soldering copper backed boards

2007-11-30 Thread Dohn
I'm sure there are a lot of you that have more experience in building kits
than I.  I built a few heathkit projects.  That was some time ago obviously.
I've built a K1 and 2 as well.

 

I'm starting a project with two large boards that are solder masked on top
but copper clad on the back.  Is there anything I should do differently when
stuffing these boards?  Different than when I was working on my Elecraft
projects?  (teardrop shaped filets, clean the copper board, etc.?

 

It just seems funny to not see the solder peek through the top of the
board.  I've noticed that if I keep the solder to what I think is sufficient
amount, it's easy to not fill the hole that the lead comes through.  In
other words you can hold the board up to a light and see a little light.  If
there is anyone who might have a pic or two of what they think is a good
looking finished product on a board like this, I would appreciate seeing
them.

 

Thanks for your comments/pics ahead of time.

 

Dohn  N8EWY

 

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RE: [Elecraft] Departing list ......

2007-10-05 Thread Dohn
Without having seen the K3 in action, has anyone got any idea what the
differences would be if you stood an IC-7000 next to a K3 and compared their
performances?

Dohn  N8EWY
K2  5815
K1
Fists 12820   

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL)
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Departing list ..

I've decided to not order the K3, and
am leaving this list today.  Being a
1-rig ham, I really need to be practical
and go with a 1-rig HF/60/VHF/UHF rig,
ala IC-7000.  Perhaps in late 2008 spring,
when K3 dust settles - I'll be back.  But the
1-rig, HF/VHF/UHF and mobile rig - will have to
suit me for a while.  And I don't know what
mobiling with a K3 would mean.

I'm a snowbird, in cars, 2 residences, boat
in summer, golf cart in winter.  Lots of
shacks.

I will not miss the Reflector.  I stopped
doing email administration back in 89. 

My K3 order was a 2nd Production Run
order.   So long.

73's Fred, de N3CSY
3 Oct 07


   


Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail,
news, photos  more. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC
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RE: [Elecraft] RTTY Problems

2007-03-19 Thread Dohn
If one centers their filters at 2210 Hz in RTTY mode for use in RTTY, then
is RTTY no longer the mode of choice for PSK31?  Would you just use USB for
PSK31 and adjust your speech compression?  Are RTTY and PSK31 both useable
with RTTY mode with filters centered around 2210 Hz?

Dohn N8EWY 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steven Pituch
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 5:29 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RTTY Problems

 (The crystal filters in RTTY mode are unusable for
 RTTY because they're centred on voice audio
 frequencies and not RTTY freqs.  But that's another
 story.)
Hi Ken,
As far as the other story goescenter them on 2210 Hz or whatever the 
RTTY center frequency is, then narrow them down to about 400 hz wide and 
then it will work fabulously.  My PK232 is centered on 2210 Hz so I aligned 
the K2 filters to match.  Now I can do PACTOR I with my K2.
See:
http://www.pituch.net/p/Steve's%20Page/Radio/RTTY/RTTY.html
or just page down from www.pituch.net

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RE: [Elecraft] Seeking Help Solving KAF2 Problem

2007-03-02 Thread Dohn
This is a post I used and then archived and may help you.

Your sidetone source likely was switched for some reason or other - maybe by
an 'extra' finger press while in the menu

Go back into the menu and dial up ST L, press EDIT to move the cursor over
to the right side and then tap DISPLAY to toggle the sidetone source.  When
you hear the sidetone, stop and exit from the menu.

In some rare instances, it may take a few 'toggles' to get things to switch
properly, so try it several times.  If you have a post SN 3000 K2 (or have
put the sidetone source change on an older K2 because you added the KPA100
or KIO2) your sidetone source should be 'U8 - 4' - you will see the source
displayed briefly each time it is toggled.

73,
Don W3FPR

Dohn   N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dennis Payton
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 10:19 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Seeking Help Solving KAF2 Problem

A couple weeks ago, I got out my K2 and operated the ARRL International DX 
Contest. During the contest, my audio output was so low I had to constantly 
use the preamp just to hear on my headphones, so afterwards I opened the rig

up and tracked the problem down to the audio filter. Shorting pins 1  2 of 
J1  J2 gave me full audio with the board removed, and flipping the 
board-mounted switch to out gave me full audio with the board installed.



That told me the problem 'had' to be in the filter board, but after checking

the DC voltages from the chart and thoroughly examining each component's 
location and solder joints, I found nothing. I decided to use a RS 
speaker-amp to follow the audio signal through the filter to see where it 
was getting attenuated, but was very surprised to not see it getting 
attenuated anywhere. The filter appears to work properly from beginning to 
end. The audio at pins 1  2 of J1  J2 all sound fine to me, whether the 
filter is switched in or out, but the K2's audio is 'greatly' attenuated 
when the filter is switched in. Although I'd made sure the filters were 
aligned with each other when I first started troubleshooting, I thought that

was all that was left, so I started checking them again. Then, at one point,

I hit the spot button and discovered I suddenly had no sidetone. I spent 
quite a bit of time trying to figure out what happened, but couldn't get any

power from pin 25 of the MCU whether I keyed the rig, hit spot, or turned 
the rig off  on. Then as a curiosity after giving up, I removed the audio 
filter board. That gave me sidetone again! Next, I reinstalled the board and

I still had sidetone, so something must have locked up? Now, I've got the 
filter removed again though, and have decided that I'm at the end of my 
ability.



Something else I think I should mention is that I measure 5.15 volts on pins

1  2 of  J1 on the control board. I hope that's expected. Also, I don't 
know if I've had this problem since the beginning or if it just popped up. I

haven't operated the K2 since installing the KAF2 quite some time ago, and I

just don't remember how I left it.



Any advice would sure be appreciated.



Thanks!



Denny PaytonN9JXY



(By the way, I worked Auckland, New Zealand on 40-meters during the contest 
operating one watt. That calculated to be 8312 miles-per-watt, which is by 
far a new record for me. My antenna is just an R7 vertical mounted on a shed

in my back yard.)


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[Elecraft] DSP terminology question

2007-02-18 Thread Dohn
Can anyone explain terminology associated with the DSP unit.  It's difficult
to know which way to begin adjusting individual areas of the DSP without
understanding.  At least for me.  I realize I could fiddle with them and
listen for change, but I'm not comfortable with that without a little
knowledge going in.

 

Terms such as:

 

1.  soft filtering and standard filtering
2.  Adjusting the Beta (aggressiveness) in the Denoiser
3.  Adjusting the hold/decay  time of the filter in Denoiser
4.  The same in the autonotch
5.  I guess I'm unclear what effect the autonotch is having on the
signal in SSB.  It is difficult to detect any difference with it on or off.
6.  Denoiser Gain sttings and there effect.
7.  Filter gain and balancing the audio gain.

 

I guess I need an expert in all things DSP.  I just want to understand them
better before tinkering with them.

 

Thanks in advance if there is info available from anyone.

 

Dohn  N8EWY

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[Elecraft] K2 - no tone on TX

2007-02-17 Thread Dohn
I did a lot of maintenance work on my K2 today.  It required tearing it down
board by board.  All work went well.  I buttoned it up and hooked everything
up.  It is transmitting on CW but there is no tone, as in dah dit, just a
slight clicking.  It appears to be putting out appropriate poser levels but
is not making a tine through the speaker or in the headphones if plugged in.

 

I suspect something silly or simple.  Any ideas?

 

Dohn  N8EWY

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 - no tone on TX

2007-02-17 Thread Dohn
You were absolutely right.  I even saved that post from Don because it
seemed like a good one for my own archive.  That's pretty weird.  I just
saved it yesterday and needed it today.  Go figure.  Thanks so much.

73

Dohn N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: David Wilburn [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 9:04 PM
To: Dohn
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 - no tone on TX

Don and Jeff Kinzli had this discussion yesterday afternoon.  You might 
look though those email, labeled K2 lost sidetone, Don supplied some 
suggestions there.

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Dohn wrote:
 I did a lot of maintenance work on my K2 today.  It required tearing it
down
 board by board.  All work went well.  I buttoned it up and hooked
everything
 up.  It is transmitting on CW but there is no tone, as in dah dit, just a
 slight clicking.  It appears to be putting out appropriate poser levels
but
 is not making a tine through the speaker or in the headphones if plugged
in.
 
  
 
 I suspect something silly or simple.  Any ideas?
 
  
 
 Dohn  N8EWY
 
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RE: [Elecraft] Speaker jack

2007-02-11 Thread Dohn
I kind of figured that.  However, I think the problem lies in the front
headphone jack anyway.  At least I can receive some audio for now by wearing
my headphones.  If I unplug them though, there is no audio through the
speaker.  

I think a swap out of the headphone jack is going to solve the problem.
Then it will be on to the rear one grin  Truth is, the rear ext spkr
jack looks to be of fairly good quality.

Dohn N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeremiah McCarthy
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 10:54 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Speaker jack

This speaker jack problem applies only to basic K-2's...I assumed that Dohn
was talking about a basic K-2...The basic K-2 cover is not installed in a
KPA-100 so the external speaker jack cannot cause a problem...I always use
the external speaker jack to obtain output to the computer sound card when
aligning the filters with Spectrogram...This is how I discovered that the
new style jacks were different from the old ones...When an external speaker
(or a cable to your computer) is plugged into one of these new speaker
jacks, the internal speaker goes mute and there is no output to the
computer...Reversing the AF and SP connections at the jack (page 79)
corrects it...

Jerry, wa2dkg 



I have encountered several of these faulty jacks...If the jack has a
7/16 hex nut to attach it to the panel, it is a new jack in the Elecraft
world and it is internally wire in reverse to the originals, which had a
knurled thumb screw type nut...The fix is simple...Referring to page 79 in
the manual, reverse the positions of wires AF and SP...

Jerry, wa2dkg
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RE: [Elecraft] Nutz

2007-02-10 Thread Dohn
That's the hardest part.

N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 11:43 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Nutz

These emails are really helpful.  Only problem is I've ordered my E2 and its
in
the UPS truck somewhere by Des Moines, goin' nutz waiting for it.  Hopefully
it
will be all success on future posts to this board on the working E2 I've
finished.  Until it gets here I'll just keep on reading...
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[Elecraft] No output - internal spkr - K2/100

2007-02-10 Thread Dohn
Howdy .. My real problem is that when there are no headphones plugged into
the front and nothing hooked to the ext spkr in the back I'm not getting
anything through the onboard spkr in my K2/100.  This is true of the spkr in
the QRP lid as well when swapped out.  This happened suddenly last evening.
The internal speaker was working fine, and then I noticed it wasn't working
later in the evening.

 

The ext spkr is producing no audio now.  This is true of the KPA top and
the QRP top.  The lack of audio in the internal speaker  and the ext spkr
jack in the back are tied together I'm sure.  I get a nice waterfall in say
HanScope when the audio is taken from the headphone jack in the front of the
K2/100.  If I then switch back to the ext spkr in the rear there is no
sign of audio present in the HamScope waterfall. No audio at the internal
speaker on the way up to plug into the rear ext spkr jack either. 

 

Any ideas why my ext spkr jack in the back of my KPA100 would just stop
working?  I plugged the QRP top back on with the speaker hooked up.  The
same thing so it's not the jack itself. No audio through the internal
speaker or ext spkr jack but the headphones at the headphone jack in the
front works fine.

 

Thank you in advance for any ideas you might have.

 

Dohn

N8EWY

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RE: [Elecraft] No output - internal spkr - K2/100

2007-02-10 Thread Dohn
Thanks Don,

I feel a little more comfortable with these concepts each time I have to
work through them.  I was pretty certain of the area look over and I knew
(hoping) it was one of those jacks.  Going to start digging.

Thanks again to everyone,

Dohn  N8EWY 

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 4:26 PM
To: Dohn; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] No output - internal spkr - K2/100

Dohn,

With headphones OK, but speaker not working, there are 4 things to check.
First, check to see if you mistakenly plugged the speaker into the P5 header
on the control board - the speaker plugs onto the RF Board.

Second, have the crimp pins in the speaker connector been pushed back into
the housing?  The pins must be inserted properly and will lock into place if
done correctly, many builders have trouble with inserting the pins.

Third, is the speaker cable wired backwards?  On the QRP top, the copper
wire should connect to pin 1 of RF Board P5 and the non-grounded lug of the
external speaker jack - the KPA100 is opposite in that the tinned wire is
connects to P5 pin 1 and the non-grounded side of the AF path on the KPA100
board.

Forth, check the soldering of the headphone jack, especially the 3 pins
toward the back (these are the switch contacts.

If you think the headphone jack switch may defective, you can check the
resistance from RF Board J8 pin 7 to RF Board P5 pin 1 - this path should
measure close to zero ohms with the headphones removed (if the headphone
jack switch is OK).

Since your speaker 'just quit' after it was working, I would think the first
3 items may be OK,so check the 4th one first - check the soldering first and
then do the continuity check.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Howdy .. My real problem is that when there are no headphones plugged into
 the front and nothing hooked to the ext spkr in the back I'm not getting
 anything through the onboard spkr in my K2/100.  This is true of
 the spkr in
 the QRP lid as well when swapped out.  This happened suddenly
 last evening.
 The internal speaker was working fine, and then I noticed it
 wasn't working
 later in the evening.



 The ext spkr is producing no audio now.  This is true of the KPA top and
 the QRP top.  The lack of audio in the internal speaker  and the
 ext spkr
 jack in the back are tied together I'm sure.  I get a nice
 waterfall in say
 HanScope when the audio is taken from the headphone jack in the
 front of the
 K2/100.  If I then switch back to the ext spkr in the rear there is no
 sign of audio present in the HamScope waterfall. No audio at the internal
 speaker on the way up to plug into the rear ext spkr jack either.


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[Elecraft] K2 ext. jack jacked?

2007-02-09 Thread Dohn
All of the sudden, my ext spkr jack is dysfunctional.  I get NO output there
now.  I get no output through my internal spkr either.  Headphone jack on
front panel is FB.  This should be an easy one but have to leave for work
for now.  

 

Any suggestions on where to begin troubleshooting when I get home?

 

Thanks to all

73

Dohn N8EWY

 

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[Elecraft] K1-4band+2 bander ATU backlit for sale

2007-02-08 Thread Dohn
Hello,

 

I'm thinking of selling my K1-4.  It has worked wonderfully for me and is in
like new condition.  It is loaded with the ATU,* 4 bands - tuned, noise
blanker, backlight installed and I have the K1-2 board built (has not been
installed or aligned).

 

I love my K2 and I am thinking of building the KX1 for portable QRP work.

 

Serial number 2257.  This radio is in great shape and working like a charm.

 

It is for sale for $420 - shipped  Firm.

 

Contact me Off Line if interested.

 

Dohn  N8EWY

 

 

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[Elecraft] FS K1-4band+2 bander ATU backlit

2007-02-08 Thread Dohn
I have the K1-2 board built (has not been installed or aligned).

 

I love my K2 and I am thinking of building the KX1 for portable QRP work.

 

Serial number 2257.  This radio is in great shape and working like a charm.

 

It is for sale for $420 - shipped  Firm.

 

Contact me Off Line if interested.

 

Dohn  N8EWY

 

 

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 current sense problem

2007-02-03 Thread Dohn
Be advised .. I am an amateur.  An amateur with a great deal of
experience going back and checking solders.  Checking them again and than
once again.  Without response from anyone else I would be searching the area
of the solders at or near the LCD and the vicinity.  When you are done, look
again.  Just a word from the amateur rank.

Dohn  N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of TREVOR WATERS
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 12:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 current sense problem

Hello All, 
This is my first posting so fingers crossed that I get
it right.
I am currently at stage two, testing and aligning K2
No 5914. After a few problems( poor sodering on T7)
finally got to hear something on 40 so much relief. In
the first stage test everything was ok but now when
pressing the display button to get up voltage and
current there is only the voltage showing and zero at
the current  13.7   000  so I'm a bit stuck and  would
appriciate any help. I suspect Q11 which is being
driven by U3A the LMC6482AIN but being a novice and
the k2 being my first real kit I am unsure and would
appriciate any help. By the way I am building the
basic CW version
Best 73
Trev GW4IMC 
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[Elecraft] Tuning knob Alternative

2007-01-23 Thread Dohn
I always liked the looks of those FT-900 main tuning knobs on the K2.  I had
an opportunity to use one and the extra weight felt good.  There don't seem
to be very many extras of these knobs floating around.  I've been looking
for an alternative that would have the nice feel of that outer ring and the
heft for tuning.

 

It's hard to tell which current models have a similar knob by looking at
adds.  The IC-7000 looks close but I'm not sure about the actual diameter.

 

Open to suggestions here.  A knob about 1 3/8 diameter, with some weight
and a rubber outer ring would be nice.

 

If anyone has one of those FT-900 knobs available, I'm interested.

 

Dohn N8EWY

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[Elecraft] K-2 doubletake

2007-01-16 Thread Dohn
All of the sudden, as I tune through pretty much any frequency, I am
receiving 2 signals at a time.  Before I can tune out of one good signal ..
Say on 40 meters, I come into another and can often hear another signal
weakly at the same time as my strong signal.  

 

It seems that one transmission is leaking into the next transmissions
bandwidth.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Dohn  N8EWY

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[Elecraft] KDSP2 question

2007-01-11 Thread Dohn
The digital filters are very effective and all-in-all the unit works great.
The menu is, as most of you know, quite involved but functional.

 

HOWEVER:  The real time clock and calendar will not advance.  I have checked
and checked the soldering and for bridges and the like.

 

I think U3 is toasted/defective.  But how I tell?

 

Dohn N8EWY

 

 

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RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2 question

2007-01-11 Thread Dohn
Whoops .. the calendar/clock advances when in that mode.  It does not 
keep time/date after you leave the mode.  It does not increment.  Is it
possible to just get the U3 IC re[laced if it is defective?

Dohn   N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dohn
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 5:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KDSP2 question

The digital filters are very effective and all-in-all the unit works great.
The menu is, as most of you know, quite involved but functional.

 

HOWEVER:  The real time clock and calendar will not advance.  I have checked
and checked the soldering and for bridges and the like.

 

I think U3 is toasted/defective.  But how I tell?

 

Dohn N8EWY

 

 

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RE: [Elecraft] #5885 up and running!!!

2007-01-10 Thread Dohn
Outstanding.  Isn't it a great feeling?

Have fun

73
Dohn N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Donald Currier
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 10:21 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] #5885 up and running!!!

My K2/100 (serial #5885), KSB2, K160RX, KNB2, KDSP2 is up and  
running, putting out 100+ watts (if called on to do so) on all bands.

Great fun building, learning while building, and now, using!

Thanks to all on the board who were kind enough to answer my questions.

Vy 73 to all

Don
W0DJC

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RE: [Elecraft] CAL PLL and CAL FIL

2007-01-08 Thread Dohn
If you have the KDSP2 installed, can you still use the N6KR method to set
the reference?  I would think you would want it in Bypass.

Dohn  N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 9:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] CAL PLL and CAL FIL

Ben,

You can just do the CAL FIL alone.

In fact, you can do CAL PLL alone too.

Only one 'caution' - if you are to retain good dial calibration, be certain
the 4 MHz reference oscillator is set properly before doing either CAL FIL
or CAL PLL.  The best method of setting the reference is using the N6KR
method - see
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/K2%20C22%20Adjust%20App%20Note.pdf for the
instructions if you do not already know the procedure.

You can do CAL FIL without setting the reference first, and your K2 will
sound great, and the filters will work fine - the dial calibration may be a
few more Hz off from what it should be, but that is the only 'bad' result.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I know the CAL PLL process requires a CAL FIL after it
 to make everything work correctly.  My question is if
 I want to re-do the CAL FIL, do I need to do a CAL PLL
 first?  I can't tell for sure from the manual, but it
 seems to me that I wouldn't need to.  I'm thinking I
 should probably at least let the rig warm up to
 operating temp before re-doing CAL FIL however.

 -Ben  K1NT

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RE: [Elecraft] rx audio output K2

2007-01-07 Thread Dohn
Mine is much the sane.  It changes some with Frequency.  At least in mine.

73
Dohn N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of worsr
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 10:31 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] rx audio output K2

I was wondering what position most K2 users set their AF gain control for
comfortable listening.  My K2's AF gain must be set at about 1-2 o'clock to
be able to hear anything.  This is the same for internal as well as for
various external spkrs.  Most of my other radios need the gain only at about
9-10 o'clock for comfortable listening.

Thanks.

--Mike, W0RSR
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RE: [Elecraft] control board construction

2007-01-07 Thread Dohn
There is a small, rectangular, black plastic jumper with 2 holes in it.  You
slide that over the indicated pins of P7.  It is the easiest of the jumpers
to place.  Look for that little, black mystery part.  There is a pic of it
in appendix A - page 4, next to the last item.

Good Luck and go slow

Dohn N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dennis Vavra
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 10:06 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] control board construction

I need some clarification for the installation of a shorting jumper for
part P7 on the control board. the instructions are on page 17, right-hand
column, 3rd step down.
Do  I solder a piece of wire btwn the two right hand pins of P7,  and if so,
exactly where? During my attempt at installation, I damaged part P7, also
damaged part P5
with my soldering iron so I will have to order two new parts Monday. I am
concerned as to the state of the PCB board now because much of the plating
at P7 and P5
was removed/damaged. wonder how this will pan out during testing. any
suggestions are welcome.  Dennis Vavra AD5LY
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RE: [Elecraft] rx audio output K2

2007-01-07 Thread Dohn
Isn't the position of the AF gain (volume?) dependent on the position of the
RF gain knob?  As I turn the RF gain knob clockwise, the AF gain (volume)
increases.  So it seems that the position of the AF gain knob is variable
with respect to the RF gain.

Just to get another thread going about this, I would ask where you best
position the RF gain knob when operating?

Dohn   N8EWY

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gregg R. Lengling
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 12:08 PM
To: 'Mike Markowski'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] rx audio output K2

This topic comes up many times over and over on the reflector.  If you radio
is properly aligned and built you should have plenty of rx audio with the
volume set at 8 or 9 o'clock.  In the past the major problem has been those
that don't have the AGC properly set and thus the AGC is reining in the
received signals.  The easiest test to see if you have the AGC set properly
is to just turn it off and if you have an increase in volume you are not
properly set.
[Gregg R. Lengling] 

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[Elecraft] K2 RX audio output - again

2007-01-07 Thread Dohn
Isn't the position of the AF gain (volume?) dependent on the position of the
RF gain knob?  As I turn the RF gain knob clockwise, the AF gain (volume)
increases.  So it seems that the position of the AF gain knob is variable
with respect to the RF gain.

 

Just to get another thread going about this, I would ask where you best
position the RF gain knob when operating.

 

Dohn   N8EWY

 

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[Elecraft] Mic connector confusion

2007-01-02 Thread Dohn
I was attempting to order a rascal glx today to attempt to try some RTTY and
PSK31 and the like.  They were most rude and treated me like an idiot for
calling them instead of emailing.  I didn't see the note on their site to
email for tech support.  I didn't really know what to ask anyway if I did
email.

 

They kept asking how is your mic connector configured?  Is it 8 Pin? (I
knew it was 8 pin, but even after looking back at my manual I couldn't
figure out exactly what to say as far as how it was configured.  I saw the
chart showing what number connector did what.  I wired it for the Heil
Proset2 and that is what I am using.  

 

My question:   what do I say the next time I'm asked (politely or not) How
is my Mic configured?

(Kenwood, TenTec, YAESU FT-1000D etc.)

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[Elecraft] RTTY connection?

2007-01-01 Thread Dohn
Is it correct to assume that you must make up two jumpers in order to
connect RTTY?  1. One to connect audio output (from which jack?) on the K2
to the Mic connector on the sound card, and 2.,  One from the speaker out
connector of the sound card to the Mic jack of the K2?

 

I have the proset headphones connected to my K2. I do not use the large ¼”
with 1/8” adaptor for anything.  The large ¼” portion of the adaptor, which
came with the 1/8” insert, seems to serve no function.  I plug the headphone
jack of the headphones into the headphone jack of the K2.  That is the only
way I seem to get the headphones to work.  I plug the gray 1/8” plug from
the headphones into the smaller 1/8” standalone jack in the adaptor in the
adaptor which came with the proset and that is the way it seems to tx when I
key the keyer.

 

My question is:  If it does indeed require to jumpers from the soundcard,
where do I connect them to get RTTY to work.  What portion of my proset
headphones connectors should not be connected when I achieve this?

 

I am using HRD and have been trying to use the PSK31 portion of the program.
I also have “digipan” loaded on my computer and was going to try this
program as well.  I am open to any suggestions for a RTTY program.

 

Dohn N8EWY

 

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[Elecraft] DSP prob - help

2006-12-29 Thread Dohn
Well I carefully built and installed the dsp filter in my K2.  Fired up the
K2 but the red led did not extinguish.  Took it out.  Checked line up of
connector, looked for bridges, cold solders and the like and buttoned it
back up.  Still will not extinguish (the red LED). 

 

Removed the entire dsp unit again and fired up the K2.  No noise!  There
appears to be signals according to the S-meter as I tuned the VFO.  Is it
because of the jumpers I removed when I installed the connectors on the
control board?  Should I install jumpers on the connectors so my basic K2
will work while I troubleshoot this dsp unit?

 

Man ... I am not having luck with my modules.  My solders appear good.  Part
placement is good.  I am using precautions when I handle static sensitive
stuff.

 

What do I do here?

 

Dohn N8EWY

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[Elecraft] DSP - all is well

2006-12-29 Thread Dohn
All is well with the DSP unit.  Thank You guys for responding.  I found the
error when I removed the control board to figure out where to put the
jumpers.  The problem was at the P connectors for the DSP unit.  Not on
the module at all.  The connectors were placed, soldered at one point and
perpendicular to the control board.  However, I neglected to solder the rest
of the pins on the control board. 

 

If I haven't figured anything else out on these projects, I have figured out
everything works better when the joints are soldered. grin

 

Dohn  N8EWY

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[Elecraft] KPA - Hi Curr

2006-12-23 Thread Dohn
OK . Cal Curr is set to 3.5.  I use an MFJ 4125 switching supply.  My
display shows 13.4 volts and 0.45 amps with the ribbon cable connected.

 

Connections are correct at the antenna.

Continuity is good from TP2 to the antenna on all bands.

I get the Hi Curr message before the reading on all bands except 10, 12,
15 and 20 meters.  On these bands I DO NOT get the message but the readings
are the same .1 watts and 1.0-1 measurements.

 

Dohn N8EWY  (Frustrated in Tecumseh)

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