Re: [Elecraft] K2 Lo p on 10 12m when its cold outside.

2014-11-28 Thread EMD
Hello Don,

Thanks for your reply.  After setting the ATU to CALP 10 and 12m are still
dead, the other bands are fine.  I do not have the 100W option installed. 

Ed



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[Elecraft] K2 Lo p on 10 12m when its cold outside.

2014-11-18 Thread EMD
I have had my K2 (7109) for 3 years now and I have noticed something about it
when it gets cold out.  Every year when the temperature falls I lose 10 and
12 meter capability.  I have read the posts on this forum with little
success in resolving this issue.  My K2 sits next to an upstairs window, I
have to admit I have been a little lax in getting the window properly
enclosed since I use a MFJ window adapter for my antenna.  This morning was
particularly cold and when I touched my radio it was very cold.  After
turning it on it was once again dead on 10 and 12m.  I decided to see if
warming it up would help.  I got my wife's hair dryer and blew some hot air
on it and after about 5 minutes 10 and 12m are back.  I had it on 10m dead
and then it came back as if I had just turned it on.  So this makes me
wonder if I have a bad solder joint somewhere in the tuner?  

Any help/ideas are always greatly appreciated.

Ed K3ENV





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Re: [Elecraft] Lo P on 10 and 12 meters

2013-09-07 Thread EMD
Problem solved.  I did some reading on antennas and come up with a simple
solution on the Lo P problem I was having.  So I took my K2 parts bag and
pulled out some toriods I did not use and made what I think would be called
an RF choke.

Since I have added this to my ladder line feed point on my G5RV I have never
had the LO P message again.  I have using this for the last six months.

 

It's not pretty but it seems to work;-)

73's Ed
K3ENV




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Re: [Elecraft] Don Wilhelm A Special Thank You!

2013-03-29 Thread EMD
I would also like to add my thanks.  Don made the difference on both of my
Elecraft projects, a KX1 and a K2/10.  His experience guided me through a
problem on my K2 and helped me fix it.  He also did a great job aligning my
K2.  I always get good audio from my signal reports.

73's and thanks again Don,
Ed K3ENV formerly KE7HGA 



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: G5RV's and variants

2013-02-14 Thread EMD
My 2 cents,

As a relatively new ham lacking any real world skills with regards to making
antenna's, the G5RV has worked for me.  I am very limited in time, I am not
normally home more than 10 days a month so my spare time is limited.   But I
still have some time to enjoy the hobby and personally I would rather spend
what time I have getting on the air.  That being said the G5RV has done what
it promised, I have made contacts on 80 through 10 meters and I always am
able to tune any band with less than 1.5 SWR using the K2's internal tuner. 
I am only running 10 watts and have made contacts as far away as the Ukraine
from my east coast QTH so it seems to getting out.  I'm sure there are
better antenna's and some day I would like to have something more than the
G5RV but for now it works for me.  Anyhow I don't really understand why the
G5RV is so controversial.  

Respectfully submitted,

73's
Ed K3ENV



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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Charging

2012-10-29 Thread EMD
Thanks guys for your response to my Really OT question.  The reason I asked
on this forum is because this is where the experts are, not at the Verizon
store.  Every time I have asked this question at Verizon I get a blank stare
which pretty much tells me all I need to know.

Sorry for the waste of band with...

Ed



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[Elecraft] Battery Charging

2012-10-29 Thread EMD
Boeing aircraft provides 110volts but the cycles are 400, not the standard
60.  My question is can charging a cellphone or camera battery at the higher
cycle cause harm to the battery?

73, Ed
k3env



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[Elecraft] Camping with my K2

2012-09-02 Thread EMD
Hello,

I'm taking my K2 on it's first camping trip over the holiday.  I will be in
Yosemite National Park around 8400'.  I will be call CQ from there on the
QRP freq's so I hope that I can add some new call signs to my log book.  

I will be there until the 8th and calling in the afternoons and early
evenings.  I will be using a G5RV for an antenna.

I hope to hear from some of you!

73,

Ed K3ENV



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[Elecraft] Running Windows on a MAC

2012-05-22 Thread EMD
Hello,

Recently I have had the need to run windows on my MAC.  I'm using Parallels
to run Windows 7.  I have been told that I do not need Anti Virus software
on the windows side since I already use it on the MAC side.  Does anyone
have any thoughts on this?

73, Ed
K3ENV

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[Elecraft] KBT2 installation question

2012-05-11 Thread EMD
Page 8 of the manual states, "Set the K2's internal voltmeter switch, S1 ( on
the control board ) to the 12v position.  S1 is actually on the RF board.  I
have looked at the parts list and schematic pages for the control board and
have not found another S1 switch.

Is this in reference to the main power switch of the K2 itself?  If so what
would be the 12V position.  I have looked around on the control board and
cannot find anything else that would appear to have a 12V position.

73's

Ed K3ENV



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[Elecraft] G5RV

2012-05-05 Thread EMD
Good morning,

Well I just finished hanging my new G5RV yesterday and I have already had
some impressive results when comparing my long wire to the G5RV.  After I
first connected the antenna to my K2 (7109 ) I thought something was wrong. 
Then I figured out the I'm not hearing the noise that the long wire antenna
picked up.  I was working a net on 80 meters this morning and when switching
back and forth between the long wire and the G5RV.  I could not pick up the
net on the long wire but with the G5RV I could.  I don't know if my
abilities in being able to receive translates to a a better radiated signal
but I don't see how it can't.

The S meter reading on the long wire this morning ( 80m) was S9+10 and the
G5RV noise level was an S4 so I am picking up signals I was missing before.

Anyhow I'm stretching the limits of the home owners association with the
wires hanging from the trees but it's pretty stealthy and since I'm on 3
acres I don't think anybody cares.

73's

Ed K3ENV

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Re: [Elecraft] SSB QRP

2012-04-18 Thread EMD
Hello Ron,

Here's my two cents. I have been using a K2 at 10 watts. I know that's just
a bit above QRP technically but I have had some great results. I'm using a
long wire antenna so far and getting ready to hang the new G5RV when I get
home, but depending on conditions I have been able to reach eastern Europe
from my central east coast QTH. Although it was really at the extreme edge
of my limited capabilities I was able to exchange enough information,
callsign, QTH, weather and such to log a QSO. I also reach Texas and Florida
easily and even the Virgin Islands.  Although I spend a lot of time
listening because the guys with higher power and better antennas run over my
weaker signal I would say try it you just might be surprised at your
results. 

73's
Ed K3ENV

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Re: [Elecraft] Lo P on 10 and 12 meters

2012-01-12 Thread EMD
Hello Don,

Thanks for your advice.  One thing I have noticed is that when I have the Lo
P on 10 and 12m, if I go to 15m and cycle through the inductors and
capacitors in the ATU menu it solves the problem.  Go figure.

So thanks again, and when it dries out and warms up a little I might get
energetic and string another wire to a tree in the back yard.

73,

Ed KE7HGA 

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Re: [Elecraft] Lo P on 10 and 12 meters

2012-01-10 Thread EMD
Some how I think I solved this issue.  What I did was I selected the
individual inductors and capacitors in the ATU menu and tuned each one on 10
meters.  Now 10 and 12 meters are loud with good power on the bands.

73's

Ed KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] Lo P on 10 and 12 meters

2012-01-10 Thread EMD
Hello,

Once again I'm getting a Lo P message when I try to tune on 10 and 12
meters.  Last month all was well but after coming home this month and
selecting 12 meters I noticed it was quite, not the s meter reading I
expected, 10 meters was also quite.  I tried tuning, using AUTO and ALT, and
got the Lo p message even with the power set to 10 watts.  

I have had this issue before and it was a bad solder joint on D4 last time. 
So since it worked before and now it's not it makes me wonder what other
component can have a bad solder joint.

I was also wonder if maybe my antenna might be an issue.  I'm using just a
long wire hanging out an up stairs window for now connected to a tree about
25 feet in the air.  Would getting a better antenna like a G5RV( I think
thats it ) would help the situation? Or maybe a better quality wire?  But I
think it's an internal issue.

Going to need a watt better so can anyone recommend a good QRP watt meter.

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] It's ALIVE!!! ...And a quick alignment question...

2011-12-20 Thread EMD
Hello David,

Great news on your K2.  I just finished mine a couple of months ago with a
couple of minor problems which I needed help getting fixed.  I just got it
back earlier this month and have been having a lot of fun with this great
little rig.  I was tuning around 10 meters and heard a station calling CQ so
I gave him a call.  To my surprise he was in Croatia, 4400 miles from my
QTH.  So needless to say it was quite exciting.

I can't help with the alignment but there are lots of folks on this
reflector that can.

73's

Ed KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] K2 #7109 is finally on the air

2011-10-12 Thread EMD
Hello all, 

After nearly 8 months of work I finally got on the air this morning.  I made
2 SSB contactas on 40m.  The first was with WB3FIE and he gave me a 57 and
then on the same qso I got another report from VA3ZW, he gave me a 56
report.  Both stations said the audio quality was very good and the were
surprised to hear that I was operating on 10 watts.  I can't take credit for
the final alignment that was done by Don W3FPR and he also fixed my KAT2
problems.  So now I can spend more time enjoying my radio, although I
enjoyed building my radio, I'm glad for now I'm done.

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment

2011-08-13 Thread EMD
Sorry Don,

I was using the DMM leads and not the RF probe to read the voltage on the
DL1 measuring 6 volts.

Thanks again Don,

Ed

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment

2011-08-13 Thread EMD
Don,

When I use the DMM and measure the Voltage across I am only getting 6.0
volts.  When I plug that into P=V*V/R I get .72volts.  I have also noticed
that when I push TUNE I sometime see a fluctuating power indication and
other times I see 2.4f 0.0r.  So what should I be looking at to adjust R1. 
Sorry to be so dense but this has me confused.  Also when I select TUNE the
S meter fluctuates with the power display.

73,
Ed ke7hga 

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment

2011-08-13 Thread EMD
Thanks Don,

I will give that a try.  Should I use the RF probe that I made or just use
the DMM probes?

73,
Ed ke7hga

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment

2011-08-13 Thread EMD
Okay Don thanks again.  I did not indicate any voltage during receive. I
think I'm going to wait until I get some sort of watt meter before I
continue.  But I'm off to work so that will have to wait until next month.

73,
Ed ke7hga


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment

2011-08-13 Thread EMD
Don, 

I just realized that I had done the Bridge null adjustment with R6
installed.  So should I remove it and start over? 

73,
Ed ke7hga

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment

2011-08-13 Thread EMD

Don

I was using a cable to connect my Dummy load to the tuner.  So I decided to
see if maybe the connection could be bad so I connected the tuner directly
to the #1 antenna jack and that was it.  Now I have a steady power ready of
3.0 volts.

Thanks again.

73,
Ed ke7hga

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment

2011-08-13 Thread EMD
Thanks Don I will start looking into those areas.

73,
Ed ke7hga

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[Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment

2011-08-13 Thread EMD
Hello,

When I adjust C55 I initially get a high current message that last for a
second, followed by a fluctuating power indication.  The lowest I can adjust
c55 down to is 1.7 volts. 

So what have I missed.  Thanks in advance.

73,
Ed ke7hga 

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Re: [Elecraft] I don't think I'm getting out

2011-08-12 Thread EMD
Don,

Thanks for the information.  I will follow your advice.  I know the wire
antenna is not the best but for the time being it's all I can come up with. 
I also think I will go ahead and install the KAT2 since it is complete and
ready for installation and would solve some of my impedance issues.

73,
Ed ke7hga

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Re: [Elecraft] I don't think I'm getting out

2011-08-11 Thread EMD
Guy

Thanks for the advice.  I think I'm getting out okay.  I hooked up my
MFJ-267 Watt meter dummy load and when I have the power set to 10 watts I'm
getting close to 10 watts forward but the reflected is about 5 so that tells
me the antenna is the issue.  I have a KAT2 ready to install so I would bet
I will get better results once I install the tuner.  I will lengthen the
counterpoise to 32' and see what happens.  Since I'm upstairs in a spare
bedroom as an office /shack should I run the counterpoise on the floor,
which I'm doing now or hang it out the window?  I don't think hanging out
the window is the right idea. 

Thanks again.

73,
Ed ke7hga

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Re: [Elecraft] I don't think I'm getting out

2011-08-11 Thread EMD
Don,

I do have the Elecraft dummy load so I will look into that.  I will also try
going to 10 watts and work down.

I don't have an antenna analyzer at this time, sounds like something else I
will need to pick up.

I'm using a 32' wire with a 16' counterpose which is hanging out an upstairs
window horizontally.

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] I don't think I'm getting out

2011-08-11 Thread EMD
Hello Mike,

The station I was trying to contact is 425 miles to the Northwest of my
location.  40m propagation seemed good, I was receiving other stations on
40m. I'm using a long wire for now and was putting 3 watts out according to
the power reading.

I don't have a watt meter but MFJ has a QRP meter which I'm going to buy
unless you can recommend a better one.

I don't think RIT or XIT was active.

Thanks for the reply,

73,
Ed KE7HGA 

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[Elecraft] I don't think I'm getting out

2011-08-11 Thread EMD
Hello,

I think I might have a problem with K2 7109.  I arranged to call another K2
owner on 40 meters and was not heard, additionally I did not receive his
call.  So I'm not sure if it was propagation or my radio.  What makes me
wonder is I have called on the SKCC Elmer frequencies with no response over
the last few days at different times of the day.  I have another receiver
that seems to pick up my transmissions but I don't know if that would be a
really good check if things are working as they should.   

So where do I go from here?

73,
Ed  KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 J8

2011-08-08 Thread EMD
Don,

I understand now, thanks.

Ed

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[Elecraft] KAT2 J8

2011-08-08 Thread EMD
Hello,

I'm confused on the construction of J8.  First the manual states there are
12 mini crimp pins including 2 spares.  J8 has ten pins but I only have 4
wires that come the Control board minus the bare lead.  So am I inserting
the crimp pins with the wires in one side of J8 and inserting empty ones on
the opposite side? 

Or maybe this will make sense in the morning.  Thanks in advance.

73, Ed
KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] Flying with K2

2011-06-29 Thread EMD
Have you considered shipping the battery ahead of time if that is an option. 
That way it can be waiting for you at your destination when you get there
and avoid the stress of losing it to airport security.  That is assuming
it's not lost in shipping.

73, Ed
KE7HGA


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[Elecraft] K2 7109

2011-06-09 Thread EMD
All,

Except for the speaker and adding a couple of options I purchased for my K2
I'm proud to say I have finally finished my K2.  I would like say thanks to
Don W3FPR, Gary AB7MY, Richard AD7FZ and the reflector for all the help I
received in finishing my radio, it would never have come together without
your help.

I'm sure there will be more questions about fine tuning and even more
trouble shooting but for now it's done.

73,
Ed KE7

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Re: [Elecraft] VCO Alignment on K2 7109

2011-06-05 Thread EMD
Hello Don,

I have checked the values of c60 and 61 from L30, as well as c96, c95, c94,
c93, c92 and c88 from U6 and they are all correct.  D21 and D22 are both
V149SL.

I don't know if you remember but while I was working on phase 2 I had an
issue with a mix varactor diodes but that was in the crystal area and I
swapped out the incorrect varactor. 

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] VCO Alignment on K2 7109

2011-06-04 Thread EMD
Don,

My last idea had no effect so it looks like I have a capacitor problem.

73,
Ed KE7HGA

On 6/4/11 10:51 PM, Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft] wrote:
>   Ed,
>
> You seem to have run out of adjustment range on L30.
>
> You will have to change the turns spacing on T5 to produce a voltage at
> R30 that is within range.
>
> Since your R30 voltage is 8 volts, when tuned to 4000 kHz, tune to a
> lower frequency so that the voltage is something less than 8 volts.
>
> Once you have done that, alter the spacing on T5 to reduce the voltage
> even further - adjust until the voltage is at something like 5.5 volts -
> then adjust L30 to bring it up to 6.00 volts when tuned to 4000 kHz.
>
> Once the R30 voltage is set at 4000 kHz, check the ends of each band to
> be certain the voltage is within range for all bands.  If it is not, you
> may have a capacitor problem in the VFO Range Select area (ask about
> that problem specifically).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/4/2011 10:09 PM, EMD wrote:
>
> > All,
> >
> > I have mad it to page 64.  When I check the volts at R30 using my 
> DMM I get
> > 8 volts. I assume that the left side of R30 would be having the 
> front of the
> > radio facing me so the lead I tested was towards adjacent the side 
> panel.
> > It did drop to 7.5v but at that reading the L30 was at what appeared 
> to be
> > it's maximum travel limit toward the top of the can.
> >
> > I searched the reflector and have found that I have 4.0 volts at U6 
> pin 5.
> > I have 16 turns of red and 4 turns of green wire on T5.  When I 
> decrease the
> > frequency from 4000kHz the voltage does drop.
> >
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] VCO Alignment on K2 7109

2011-06-04 Thread EMD
Don,

After setting 80m high freq to 6.0v the low freq 3500kHz measured 1.7V.  
Everything else measured 8.0v which as you know IS about .5v above the 
upper limit of the range.  I will try to see if I can get some more 
spacing on the windings on T5 and try again.

73<
Ed KE7HGA

On 6/4/11 10:51 PM, Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft] wrote:
>   Ed,
>
> You seem to have run out of adjustment range on L30.
>
> You will have to change the turns spacing on T5 to produce a voltage at
> R30 that is within range.
>
> Since your R30 voltage is 8 volts, when tuned to 4000 kHz, tune to a
> lower frequency so that the voltage is something less than 8 volts.
>
> Once you have done that, alter the spacing on T5 to reduce the voltage
> even further - adjust until the voltage is at something like 5.5 volts -
> then adjust L30 to bring it up to 6.00 volts when tuned to 4000 kHz.
>
> Once the R30 voltage is set at 4000 kHz, check the ends of each band to
> be certain the voltage is within range for all bands.  If it is not, you
> may have a capacitor problem in the VFO Range Select area (ask about
> that problem specifically).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/4/2011 10:09 PM, EMD wrote:
>
> > All,
> >
> > I have mad it to page 64.  When I check the volts at R30 using my 
> DMM I get
> > 8 volts. I assume that the left side of R30 would be having the 
> front of the
> > radio facing me so the lead I tested was towards adjacent the side 
> panel.
> > It did drop to 7.5v but at that reading the L30 was at what appeared 
> to be
> > it's maximum travel limit toward the top of the can.
> >
> > I searched the reflector and have found that I have 4.0 volts at U6 
> pin 5.
> > I have 16 turns of red and 4 turns of green wire on T5.  When I 
> decrease the
> > frequency from 4000kHz the voltage does drop.
> >
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] VCO Alignment on K2 7109

2011-06-04 Thread EMD
Don,

I did as you suggested and now have the voltage set to 6 volts at 
4000kHz.  I will check each band as well.

Thanks for your help!

73,
Ed KE7HGA

On 6/4/11 10:51 PM, Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft] wrote:
>   Ed,
>
> You seem to have run out of adjustment range on L30.
>
> You will have to change the turns spacing on T5 to produce a voltage at
> R30 that is within range.
>
> Since your R30 voltage is 8 volts, when tuned to 4000 kHz, tune to a
> lower frequency so that the voltage is something less than 8 volts.
>
> Once you have done that, alter the spacing on T5 to reduce the voltage
> even further - adjust until the voltage is at something like 5.5 volts -
> then adjust L30 to bring it up to 6.00 volts when tuned to 4000 kHz.
>
> Once the R30 voltage is set at 4000 kHz, check the ends of each band to
> be certain the voltage is within range for all bands.  If it is not, you
> may have a capacitor problem in the VFO Range Select area (ask about
> that problem specifically).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/4/2011 10:09 PM, EMD wrote:
>
> > All,
> >
> > I have mad it to page 64.  When I check the volts at R30 using my 
> DMM I get
> > 8 volts. I assume that the left side of R30 would be having the 
> front of the
> > radio facing me so the lead I tested was towards adjacent the side 
> panel.
> > It did drop to 7.5v but at that reading the L30 was at what appeared 
> to be
> > it's maximum travel limit toward the top of the can.
> >
> > I searched the reflector and have found that I have 4.0 volts at U6 
> pin 5.
> > I have 16 turns of red and 4 turns of green wire on T5.  When I 
> decrease the
> > frequency from 4000kHz the voltage does drop.
> >
> __
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[Elecraft] VCO Alignment on K2 7109

2011-06-04 Thread EMD
All,

I have mad it to page 64.  When I check the volts at R30 using my DMM I get
8 volts. I assume that the left side of R30 would be having the front of the
radio facing me so the lead I tested was towards adjacent the side panel. 
It did drop to 7.5v but at that reading the L30 was at what appeared to be
it's maximum travel limit toward the top of the can.

I searched the reflector and have found that I have 4.0 volts at U6 pin 5. 
I have 16 turns of red and 4 turns of green wire on T5.  When I decrease the
frequency from 4000kHz the voltage does drop.

Also I bought the toroid's pre wound since my eye sight is not as it used to
be.

So where should i go from here?

73, Ed
KE7HGA


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 7109 Progress report

2011-05-14 Thread EMD
I hope your having as much fun building your as I am building mine.  I will
have to put it away for a while.  I will be working and not home until the
5th of next month so you will be well ahead of me by then, so post your
progress and I will do the same.

73,

Ed KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] K2 7109 Progress report

2011-05-14 Thread EMD
All

I just finished the 2nd phase of the build.  I plugged the power supply in,
turned it on and failed to smell smoke so I opened my eyes and there it was
waiting for me to do something, wow. 

The 4MHz Oscillator calibration came in at 12099.08 kHz. The PLL Reference
oscillator range test came in at 11.76, within the range of 9.8 to 15.0. 
The VCO test resulted in a 8697.25kHz.

So I hope I'm off to a good start with numbers like that.  Still have plenty
to test and do put I'm to tired to continue for the night.

So 73,

Ed  KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Inductor identification question

2011-05-07 Thread EMD
Thanks for the info Wayne.  As you know it's a lot easier to put the correct
part in the first time.  ;-)

73, Ed
KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] K2 Inductor identification question

2011-05-07 Thread EMD
All

I have identified all the inductors from the parts list with the exception
of 2.  The first is what I believe to be L5.  L5, I think, is a green bodied
inductor that looks like brown brown black.  So I'm wondering if the brown
is actually orange due to the printing on a green back ground.

The second one is RFC15 which is a sub miniature solenoidal, what I have
looks to be green brown green.  So I'm not sure what to do until I have
confirmation that what I have will work.

73s, Ed
KE7HGA 

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[Elecraft] Varactor Diodes on the K2 RF board

2011-03-14 Thread EMD
I have noticed that I seem to have 2 different types of the 1SV149 Varactor
Diodes.  I have a mix of V1498M and a slightly thicker bodied V149SL. Is
there a difference in these 2 components?  I have already installed a mix. 
I think what happened is when I ordered my K2 I got an email indicating that
I did not receive these components, but as it turns out I did.  So I think
what I have done is mixed them. 

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] PLL upgrade board on K2 7109

2011-03-13 Thread EMD
Okay I'm getting ready to install the PLL upgrade board and it looks to me
like this has the potential of being a problem.  I have test fit the
Thermistor PC board and I can see why the instructions call for the board to
lean slightly towards U6.  The problem I see is the position of RFC14 and
the PC board.  Any tips in getting it installed correctly.  One thing I have
done is to make sure the leads coming out of the board make a tight 90
degree bend out of the board as to give me better spacing on RFC14.

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] PLL upgrade board on K2 7109

2011-03-11 Thread EMD
I think I created a solder bridge between the 1/8W resistor RB and the 3rd
pad under the resistor, on the PLL upgrade board.  I have tried to wick up
the excess solder but I still cannot determine if this is okay or that the 2
pads should be separate.

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] K2 7109 initial power on test

2011-03-08 Thread EMD
Well I'm happy to say that the initial power on test went well.  I have only
finished up to page 44 where it says RF Probe assembly, but I was happy to
see that it everything worked as advertised.  I have to say that I'm
delighted that I did not smell smoke or had any other problems sending me to
the trouble shooting section, so far. 

Excited 73,
Ed KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] K2 diffuser backing

2011-03-06 Thread EMD
I have another question on the K2 front panel.  The manual states not to
remove the backing from either side of the diffuser.  So I take it the LCD
is placed on top of the backing material of the diffuser since there is no
mention of removing the material.

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] Front Panel question

2011-03-06 Thread EMD
Thanks Don,

I figured I was missing something somewhere so I went back to the part of
the manual where I used that spacing tool and figured it out from there.  I
do have another question on the diffuser.  I did not remove backing on
either side of the it.  It looks like the LCD is placed on top of the
backing material of the diffuser.  Is that correct?  I don't see any mention
of removing it before seating the LCD on top of it.

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] Front Panel question

2011-03-06 Thread EMD
I found them:) so never mind but thanks anyhow.

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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Re: [Elecraft] Front Panel question

2011-03-06 Thread EMD
Hello 

My K2 kit seems to missing the spacers used to install the diffuser.  I have
looked through the part bags but have not found them.  Any ideas where they
might be hiding?  

73,
Ed KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] Front Panel question

2011-03-06 Thread EMD
Hello all,

I have a couple of questions on the K2 front panel assembly .  First, is it
necessary to solder the clips that hold the potentiometers to the PC board. 
Second, I'm getting ready to install J1 and I noticed that pin 1 on the PC
board has a round pad, but I did not notice any difference on connector J1
itself.  Is there a right/wrong way to install it.  Nothing mentioned in the
manual so I suspect not but thought I would make sure.

73,  Ed  KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] K2 Front Board and the Rework mic adapter

2011-02-13 Thread EMD

Hello again group,

I started the Front Board last night.  I have the Rework Eliminator Mic
Adapter and I was wondering when it is installed in the front panel board. 
I searched the K2 section but did not find anything that answers my
question.  It looks like it should be installed in this section but what is
the best approach to it's installation?

Thanks and 73, Ed
KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] K2 Control Board resistance checks

2011-02-12 Thread EMD

I have some questions on the results of my check.  
U6 pin 29 should read between 70 and 90k, I'm reading 96k.
U6 pin 30 should read between 70 and 90k, I'm reading 97k.
U8 pin 15 and 16 should read >100k, I'm not getting a reading at all so I'm
wondering if this is the way my DMM reads infinity.

Are these readings in the ball park or do I have some trouble some where?

73, Ed
KE7HGA
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[Elecraft] K2 Capacitor question

2011-02-09 Thread EMD

I made it to page 15 of the manual and am installing the capacitors on the
Control Board.  My question is the capacitor C4, 0.47 (474), if I have
identified it correctly, has lead spacing that is wider than the PCB pattern
and is a bit larger then any other non- Electrolytic capacitors. It is
described as a Monolithic cap, "474" in the parts list.  Is this the correct
one?  And what would be the best way to adjust the leads?

73, Ed
KE7HGA
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Re: [Elecraft] Taken the plunge!

2011-02-09 Thread EMD

Hi Bob,

Good idea, I have already sorted them by type so hopefully that will 
eliminate any trouble.  Finished the parts inventory so now it's time to 
get started.

73, Ed
KE7HGA

On 2/8/11 6:31 PM, Robert Harmon [via Elecraft] wrote:
> Ed,
>
> Be especially vigilant about screw type/lengths during assembly. Some 
> are very similar.
> Otherwise you will discover later during the assembly that the wrong 
> screws were used
> on something and you have to go back and make the correction.  Ask me 
> how I know this, hi,hi.
> Congratulations on your new K3 !
>
> 73,
> Bob
> K6UJ
>
>
>
> On Feb 8, 2011, at 11:21 AM, EMD wrote:
>
> >
> > Elecrafters,
> >
> > Okay K2 #7109 was delivered today.  I'm going to take my time and 
> follow as
> > best I can all the excellent advice I have received from many of you 
> on the
> > reflector, starting with a parts inventory.
> >
> > I was thinking of using the little plastic left over containers that 
> I have
> > been saving.  I'm dealing with limited space so that way I can stack 
> them
> > and keep them sealed when not using that particular parts group.
> >
> > So I'm ready to get started.
> >
> > 73, Ed
> > KE7HGA
> > --
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Re: [Elecraft] Taken the plunge!

2011-02-09 Thread EMD

 Don,

Thanks for the advice.  I will leave the ESD parts as they are.  I was 
mainly going to use the plastic containers for other items like 
capacitors, resistors and misc hardware that can be misplaced.  In your 
experience what should I concentrate on the parts inventory?

73,
Ed KE7HGA

On 2/8/11 3:40 PM, Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft] wrote:
>   Ed,
>
> Congratulations, and enjoy building it.  Follow the instructions "to the
> letter" and do a good job of soldering -- it will work and serve you 
> well.
>
> Be aware that many plastics can gather static charges, so don't put
> active devices (ICs, transistors, diodes, etc) in them - if the part is
> shipped in black foam or the transistors in an anti-static bag (the pink
> ones), leave it there until you are ready to use it. - Alternately, you
> can remove the socket from the black foam and use the space to stick the
> transistors into the foam.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 2/8/2011 2:21 PM, EMD wrote:
>
> > Elecrafters,
> >
> > Okay K2 #7109 was delivered today.  I'm going to take my time and 
> follow as
> > best I can all the excellent advice I have received from many of you 
> on the
> > reflector, starting with a parts inventory.
> >
> > I was thinking of using the little plastic left over containers that 
> I have
> > been saving.  I'm dealing with limited space so that way I can stack 
> them
> > and keep them sealed when not using that particular parts group.
> >
> > So I'm ready to get started.
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Taken the plunge!

2011-02-08 Thread EMD

Elecrafters,

Okay K2 #7109 was delivered today.  I'm going to take my time and follow as
best I can all the excellent advice I have received from many of you on the
reflector, starting with a parts inventory.  

I was thinking of using the little plastic left over containers that I have
been saving.  I'm dealing with limited space so that way I can stack them
and keep them sealed when not using that particular parts group.

So I'm ready to get started.

73, Ed
KE7HGA
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Re: [Elecraft] Taken the plunge!

2011-01-30 Thread EMD

Hello Geoff,

Thanks!  I have been putting a K2 off for some time now but I am glad 
that I have ordered one and am looking forward to getting started.  It 
will not be an elaborate set up as far as antenna's go due to local 
restrictions but I really like the idea of be portable anyway.

73, Ed
ke7hga

On 1/30/11 3:14 PM, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy [via Elecraft] wrote:
> Hello Ed,
>
> Well done!! When you can get your K2 up and running, I am certain that 
> you
> will find it to be a lot of fun to use and to be a great "DX Machine" 
> in a
> small box!
>
> 73,
>
> Geoff
> GM4ESD
>
>
> On Sunday, January 30, 2011 at 08:35Z, Ed KE7HGA wrote:
>
> > Well I have officially taken the plunge and ordered a K2 today.  After
> > much
> > consideration about how to configure my K2 I decided that I will make a
> > QRP
> > version.  With an SSB, DSP, internal tuner options.  I'm not sure what
> > else
> > I might need.  I was thinking about going the 100 watt option but I
> > decided
> > that when I want more power that will be when I order a K3.  I have
> > already
> > made the SSB mod but still need to add the torrids which I have not
> > ordered
> > yet.
> >
> > So this will be a long process due to work and family requirements 
> but I'm
> > excited to be getting started soon. I know I will have many 
> questions and
> > I
> > would like to thank all of you who will spend their time answering 
> them in
> > advance.
> >
> > 73, Ed
> > ke7hga
>
>
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[Elecraft] Taken the plunge!

2011-01-30 Thread EMD

Well I have officially taken the plunge and ordered a K2 today.  After much
consideration about how to configure my K2 I decided that I will make a QRP
version.  With an SSB, DSP, internal tuner options.  I'm not sure what else
I might need.  I was thinking about going the 100 watt option but I decided
that when I want more power that will be when I order a K3.  I have already
made the SSB mod but still need to add the torrids which I have not ordered
yet.

So this will be a long process due to work and family requirements but I'm
excited to be getting started soon. I know I will have many questions and I
would like to thank all of you who will spend their time answering them in
advance. 

73, Ed
ke7hga

 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build ideas and suggestions...

2010-10-10 Thread EMD

Found the answer on page 14 of the K2 reflector sight so I have got the
answer to my question. 

Thanks 

Ed
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[Elecraft] K2 Build ideas and suggestions...

2010-10-10 Thread EMD

I have decided that I would like to build a QRP K2.  With that in mind these
are the options that I would like to include in order:
KSB2,KAT2,KDSP2,K160RX, and the KIO2.  I would like to include the KSB2 and
the KAT2 in the initial build.  I have limited experience but with the
reflectors help was able to complete a KX1 with minimal trouble.  Or would
it be better to add the options once I have a basic K2 complete?

73, Ed
ke7hga
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[Elecraft] KX1 Tuner

2010-08-31 Thread EMD

Hello,

My KX1 has been having problems getting a low SWR.  At home I had a long
wire strung out the up stairs window getting 1.2:1 to 1.6:1.  I took the
same wire with me on a trip and now I cannot get the Antenna Tuner to tune. 
I'm getting 9.9:1 on both 20 and 40m.  I'm in Anchorage Alaska and I'm not
receiving any signals as well.  There must be some on 40 meters I would
think.  

The only difference is that I broke one of the wire connectors from the wire
so I tried attaching bare wire to the antenna connector.  

I did a inductor/capacitor relay check using a dummy load on 20 and 40m and
this is what I have found:

20m   Watts  SWR 

L0  .6 1.0
L11.2 2.1
L21.2 9.9
L3  .9 7.9
C0   1.0  9.0
C1.7   7.3
C2.6   7.0
C3.5   5.8
n1.6   1.0
n2.5   1.0

40mWatts  SWR
L0 1.1 1.0
L1 1.0 1.2
L2 1.2 2.1
L3   .9 6.0
C0 1.0 3.2
C1 1.0 3.0
C2 1.0 2.8
C3   .8 3.1
n1   .5 1.0
n2  1.01.0


I am away from home and was planning taking the KX1 camping next week.  I
have no access to any equipment for the time being so it looks like I may
ended up leaving the radio in the car.

Your thoughts would be appreciated!

73,
Ed ke7hga
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[Elecraft] My First steps on CW

2010-08-06 Thread EMD

Hello fellow Elecrafters,

I was able to finish building my KX1 with your your help!  After spending
much more time off the air than I planned I think I'm ready to give CW a
try.  For more months than I would care to admit I have been learning CW
using lcwo, and my MFJ morse tutor.  It took me a while to get through all
40 lessons and I'm still not that great, copying about 80% with a character
rate of 13 wpm and an actual wpm of 5.  I still have trouble with 'F' for
what ever reason, maybe my 54yr old tin ears or rapidly advancing age or
both.

I understand on 40m a good frequency to get a patient ear is 7114.  Is there
a similar frequency on 20m?

So if you hear me out there I look forward to making my first CW contact.

Thanx in advance for your patience.

73, Ed
KE7HGA

Forgot to mention I live close to Baltimore MD 
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Re: [Elecraft] Electronics website

2010-06-27 Thread EMD

Okay let me try that again.

The link to the website is  http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/index.html
All About Circuits 

73,

Ed KE7HGA
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[Elecraft] Electronics website

2010-06-26 Thread EMD

Hello all,

For those of you who struggle with learning electronic theory like I do, I
found a great website that does not assume you already have an extensive
back ground in electronics.  
http://http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/index.html
http://http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/index.html   Anyhow I hope
everyone might find it useful.

73,

Ed KE7HGA
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 adventure

2009-11-15 Thread EMD

Wow Monty sounds like a lot of fun in more ways than one.

73,  Ed KE7HGA

Monty Shultes wrote:
> 
> Hi all - 
> Just returned from a "trip of a lifetime" cruise in the eastern
> Mediterranean Sea.  On 3 sea days, with permission from the engineer, I
> operated from a rear deck with my KX1 and a 25-foot end-fed wire.  I
> worked Italy, Romania, and Germany (tho the German could not copy 100%). 
> With 2 watts on 6 AA cells, this was a real smiler!
> 
> Monty K2DLJ
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 power output

2009-11-11 Thread EMD

Okay thanks Don.

73,  Ed KE7HGA
On Nov 11, 2009, at 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft] wrote:

> Ed,
>
> The LED bargraph indicates approximately 1/2 watt per bar, so yes, 2
> bars = 1 watt, 6 bars = 3 watts and so on.
>
> The KXAT1 will remember the tuning for each band, so after you do an
> initial TUNE to match an antenna on any one band, there is no need  
> to do
> a tune after switching bands. *However* if you have changed the  
> antenna
> for that band, a new TUNE cycle is required.
>
> Good luck on the CW.  Start slow and don't be afraid to make  
> contacts -
> there are many forgiving ops around (but a small number who are
> unforgiving as well - ignore them, for they should be ignored).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> EMD wrote:
>
> > Howdy,
> >
> > After a long break, the summer, I finally finished my KX1 #2140.  
> Two rookie
> > mistakes but I finally figured it out.
> >
> > I installed the KXAT1 tuner and had a question on the output power  
> indicated
> > on the RF scale.  When I am running on batteries the power output  
> on 20m is
> > 2 bars or if I understand the manual correctly that would be about  
> 1 watt.
> > Using my AC adapter I get 4 bars or 2 watts.  On 20m I get 2.5  
> watts on the
> > batteries and 3 watts on AC.  Does this sound about right?
> >
> > Next, when you change bands I believe you have to tune the antenna  
> to the
> > new band is that correct?
> >
> > The cw study is coming along but I don't feel confident enough to  
> give it a
> > try just yet.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > 73,  Ed KE7HGA
> >
> >
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[Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 power output

2009-11-11 Thread EMD

Howdy,

After a long break, the summer, I finally finished my KX1 #2140. Two rookie
mistakes but I finally figured it out.

I installed the KXAT1 tuner and had a question on the output power indicated
on the RF scale.  When I am running on batteries the power output on 20m is
2 bars or if I understand the manual correctly that would be about 1 watt. 
Using my AC adapter I get 4 bars or 2 watts.  On 20m I get 2.5 watts on the
batteries and 3 watts on AC.  Does this sound about right?

Next, when you change bands I believe you have to tune the antenna to the
new band is that correct?

The cw study is coming along but I don't feel confident enough to give it a
try just yet.

Thanks in advance.

73,  Ed KE7HGA
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] "It's alive," sort of!

2009-10-31 Thread EMD

Okay I'll be giving it a try.  I have never sent cw or used the paddle  
style keyer so it should be fun.

73,  Ed KE7HGA
On Oct 31, 2009, at 6:38 PM, 4Z5TO [via Elecraft] wrote:

> EMD wrote:
> ...on the air soon, so I can frustrate everyone with my poor morse.   
> Another learning process.
>
> 73,  Ed  KE7HGA
> Don't worry about that. I am as rusty as the Titanic with my code.  
> In all instances of my cw QSOs, I have had much better/faster ops  
> slow down and work with me to ensure a solid QSO.
>
> The more you use it the easier it gets and the more fun you have. I  
> also started using a program called Morse Mania by Black Cat Systems  
> (it's Mac based software) to get up to speed. I chose the Koch the  
> method. I'm sure there is some PC equivalent.
>
> My K3 can be set to test TX or 0 watts and I can key w/o actually tx- 
> ing for practice too, I don't know about your K1.
>
> Pound away!
> 73 de 4Z5TO
>
>
>
>
> View message @ http://n2.nabble.com/It-s-alive-sort-of-tp3829094p3925423.html
> To unsubscribe from "It's alive," sort of!, click here.
>


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] "It's alive," sort of!

2009-10-16 Thread EMD

And now it's complete, KX1 #2140!  I still have to figure out how to
configure the Auto tuner but other than that it works.  I had one small
problem on the final build.  I had trouble with the wires under the battery
holders and so now I have 4 shiny new bolts with equally shiny nuts sticking
out from the bottom of my radio.  No big deal it's just not as sleek and
pretty.

Thanks to all who took the time to give me help with the trouble I had.

Going to be a long cold fall and winter so maybe a K2 will get me through
it.  Well see what Santa brings.

73, Ed KE7HGA



EMD wrote:
> 
> Well after getting discouraged I decided to take some time off from my KX1
> project.  After about 3 months I decided to get back at at with a little
> encouragement from Gary.  
> 
> I was having trouble with the receiver alignment, no signal.  I decided to
> go to the manual and review each step of the receiver build process and
> check for the obvious, wrong part installed and so on.  The first thing I
> found was I never installed R2x, then in a close inspection I found L10
> was cracked, crikey!  So I installed the missing resistor and ordered a
> new L10.  After installing L10 this morning I was amazed to hear a signal
> on my radio.  I have not had time for the alignment yet but I will get to
> it this afternoon.
> 
> So I hope to get finished and on the air soon, so I can frustrate everyone
> with my poor morse.  Another learning process.
> 
> 73,  Ed  KE7HGA
> 
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] "It's alive," sort of!

2009-10-15 Thread EMD

Hi Mike,

That sounds great.  I have never sent cw before, but I have been  
trying to prepare.  Now I really need to get up to speed since my  
radio is nearing completion.

Thanks Mike,

Ed Doyle  KE7HGA  Colora MD
On Oct 15, 2009, at 8:18 PM, Mike Scott-7 (via Nabble) wrote:

> Ed, welcome to Elecraft. I wish to relate my own experience. I had  
> been off
> the air for 30 years. I got the bug to return to the community. I  
> took the
> tests in November 2005 and for Christmas I asked for a KX1. I built  
> it and
> in January 2006 I finished. I put up a 40M inverted vee (still up  
> and my
> main antenna). The acid test soon came. I was tuning around 7.040  
> and I
> heard JA3OLW call CQ. His signal was okay and I thought, why not? I  
> returned
> the call and he came right back. Suke was my first QSO in 30 years  
> on a
> radio that had never transmitted before. I was just as nervous as  
> when I was
> a novice in 1967. The best part: I built it myself! Crikey!
>
>
>
> Any time you wish to get on the air with whatever Morse you can  
> bring, I am
> game.
>
>
>
> Mike Scott
>
> AE6WA Tarzana, CA
>
> K3/100 SN508
>
>
>
>
>
> >first thing I found was I never installed R2x, then in a close  
> inspection I
> found L10 was
>
> cracked, crikey!  So I installed the missing resistor and ordered a  
> new L10.
>
>
> After installing L10 this morning I was amazed to hear a signal on  
> my radio.
>
>
> I have not had time for the alignment yet but I will get to it this
>
> afternoon.
>
>
>
> So I hope to get finished and on the air soon, so I can frustrate  
> everyone
>
> with my poor morse.  Another learning process.
>
>
>
> 73,  Ed  KE7HGA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] [KX1] "It's alive," sort of!

2009-10-15 Thread EMD

Well after getting discouraged I decided to take some time off from my KX1
project.  After about 3 months I decided to get back at at with a little
encouragement from Gary.  

I was having trouble with the receiver alignment, no signal.  I decided to
go to the manual and review each step of the receiver build process and
check for the obvious, wrong part installed and so on.  The first thing I
found was I never installed R2x, then in a close inspection I found L10 was
cracked, crikey!  So I installed the missing resistor and ordered a new L10. 
After installing L10 this morning I was amazed to hear a signal on my radio. 
I have not had time for the alignment yet but I will get to it this
afternoon.

So I hope to get finished and on the air soon, so I can frustrate everyone
with my poor morse.  Another learning process.

73,  Ed  KE7HGA


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 Receiver Alignment

2009-04-10 Thread EMD

Hi Don,

I think I may have found the problem.  When I installed X1 I attached  
a ground to the top of the crystal.  I used the same technique when I  
installed X2 through 5.  After rereading the installation portion of  
the manual I read that the ground should be attached no more than  
3/16" from the bottom of the crystal.  Do you think this is the problem?

Thanks

Ed
On Apr 10, 2009, at 5:17 PM, Don Wilhelm-4 (via Nabble) wrote:

> Ed,
>
> The trimmers are normal one turn trimmer capacitors.  I any one full
> rotation, you should find 2 places where the signal peaks.
>
> The order of things is important - peak 20 meters first - if you  
> cannot
> find a peak on 20 meters, you have something wrong and will have to  
> look
> for the problem source (most likely is a bad solder connection).
> After peaking both trimmers for 20 meters, switch to 40 and peak that
> band's trimmer.
> If you have found a peak on both bands, all should be OK.
>
> I would initially run with the Bandwidth control at 1/3 to 1/2  
> clockwise
> rotation rather than full CCW.  The RF Gain at full CW and the AF gain
> sufficiently advanced to hear something.
>
> EMD wrote:
>
> > All,
> >
> > I have completed Phase II of construction and have a couple of  
> questions.  But first,  I have the RF Gain set to full clockwise,  
> Filter full CCW and AF Gain at about the 12 O'clock position.  I  
> have a 28' piece wireman 541 wire connected to the red side and a  
> 16' piece of the same wire to the black side of a double BNC antenna  
> connection.  I'm using a SONY MDR NC60 Noise canceling headset.  All  
> the tests are good except I am not able to peak the trimming  
> capacitors.  I do hear some static in the back ground but I don't  
> think I'm doing it right since I cannot find Peak.  Do the trimmers  
> have a max number of turns in one direction before the reach a stop  
> or will they just keep turning?  Can they be broken by over turning  
> in one direction?
> >
> > I need some help understanding this process.
> >
> > Thanks and 73
> >
> > Ed KE7HGA
> >
> >  
> 
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.51/2052 - Release Date:  
> 04/10/09 06:39:00
> >
> >
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[Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 Receiver Alignment

2009-04-10 Thread EMD

All,

I have completed Phase II of construction and have a couple of questions.  But 
first,  I have the RF Gain set to full clockwise, Filter full CCW and AF Gain 
at about the 12 O'clock position.  I have a 28' piece wireman 541 wire 
connected to the red side and a 16' piece of the same wire to the black side of 
a double BNC antenna connection.  I'm using a SONY MDR NC60 Noise canceling 
headset.  All the tests are good except I am not able to peak the trimming 
capacitors.  I do hear some static in the back ground but I don't think I'm 
doing it right since I cannot find Peak.  Do the trimmers have a max number of 
turns in one direction before the reach a stop or will they just keep turning?  
Can they be broken by over turning in one direction?

I need some help understanding this process.

Thanks and 73

Ed KE7HGA  
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Resistance checks

2009-03-16 Thread EMD

Hi Don,

Your correct!  I think I needed to take a break.  As far as my DMM is  
concerned it reads 0.F M ohm when the probes are not in contact with  
anything so once thanks for the information.

Ed,
73, KE7HGA
On Mar 16, 2009, at 4:35 PM, Don Wilhelm-4 (via Nabble) wrote:

> Ed,
>
> KX1 U6 pin 3 is connected to ground, so you should have a very low
> resistance reading.  The resistance chart on page 42 3rd item from the
> bottom indicates that the reading should be less than 5 ohms.
> It sounds like yours passes with flying colors.
>
> I cannot comment correctly on the high resistance reading from your
> particular DMM, but you may want to consult the instruction sheet for
> that DMM.
> Infinite resistance should appear the same as the reading wihich you
> obtain with both probes out in thin air,  touching nothing.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> EMD wrote:
>
> > Well I finished phase II and I have a problem with the resistance  
> checks with
> > U6. Pin 3 should be > 10k but I am reading .1 to .2 ohms.  The  
> next thing on
> > Pins 1 and 2 are showing 0.F M ohm which I think indicates infinite
> > resistance so I think thats okay?  I checked for a cold solder  
> joint and it
> > looks good so I think U6 is dead.  If so how do you replace U6?
> >
> > 73,
> > Ed  KE7HGA
> >
> >
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[Elecraft] KX1 Resistance checks

2009-03-16 Thread EMD

Well I finished phase II and I have a problem with the resistance checks with
U6. Pin 3 should be > 10k but I am reading .1 to .2 ohms.  The next thing on
Pins 1 and 2 are showing 0.F M ohm which I think indicates infinite
resistance so I think thats okay?  I checked for a cold solder joint and it
looks good so I think U6 is dead.  If so how do you replace U6?

73,
Ed  KE7HGA
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 #02140

2009-02-19 Thread EMD

Hi Fred,

Thanks and the same to you for finishing your K2.  That looks like a  
real fun project.  I would someday like to build a K2 but I think my  
next project will be the 4 band K1.  I have a lot to learn and I enjoy  
putting things together and it keeps me busy.

I will pick up a magnifier, I wear glass with bifocals and I end up  
taking the glasses off and doing the soldering up close and personal  
with my PCB about 12 inches away from my face.  I did buy a nice light  
that helps in reading finding parts out of the bags.

I had a question about soldering.  Does the solder need to flow over  
the lead on both sides of the PCB or is one side with a clean  
connection okay?

Anyhow thanks for your thoughts,

Ed, KE7HGA
On Feb 19, 2009, at 12:28 PM, KC9QQ (via Nabble) wrote:

> Congratulations on your KX1 kit.  I'm sure you will really enjoy  
> building the kit.  I completed building a K2 about a month ago and  
> enjoyed every minute.  I would suggest the purchase of a lighted  
> magnifier because it makes the construction and soldering much  
> easier.  Doing the soldering using a magnifier takes a little  
> getting used to, but once you develop the hand eye coordination of  
> the iron under the magnifier you will find it much less stressful  
> making the solder connections.
>
> I bought a low cost lighted magnifier from Staples for around $30.   
> It was worth every penny.
>
> Fred, KC9QQ
>
>
> EMD wrote:
> Hello Elecrafters,
>
> Well I will start building my KX1 in a few days.  I have been  
> getting the required equipment and being a first time builder I feel  
> a little over whelmed but reading all the the hints and tips on the  
> reflector has made it a lot easier.  So far I have what I think will  
> get me started, the big item was a soldering station.  I bought a  
> Radio Shack Digital soldering station which is basically a Madell  
> AT201D.  I did not realize that the RS version did not come with  
> extra tips but after a few minutes on the comments section I found  
> out where the tips are available, at madell.com of course.  The tip  
> included I don't think would work well since it's a needle tip so I  
> ordered the spade tip recommended by Elecraft, plus 2 extras.  I  
> also bought a anti static mat and Kester #44 solder 0.025" diameter  
> 3.3% Flux from Digi-Key.
>
> My plan is to first build the radio and follow the alignment steps,  
> then add the antenna tuner.  Once the radio is complete I'll learn  
> how to use it, not to mention CW, and then add the the 30 80 meter  
> add on board.  I thought about adding the 3080m board at the same  
> time but since I have not built a kit since my high school days I  
> don't want to get ahead of myself so I think the one thing at a time  
> plan would be best for me.
>
> I have not bought any de-soldering equipment yet but but I'm sure  
> that will be next on the list. I am looking forward to getting  
> started and I'm already looking ahead to building the K1 and then  
> the k2.
>
> Ed
>
>
> This email is a reply to your post @ 
> http://n2.nabble.com/KX1--02140-tp2295382p2354244.html
> You can reply by email or by visting the link above.
>


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 #02140

2009-02-18 Thread EMD

Phase one of the build is complete and everything has checked out.  No smoke
or frying parts!  So far this has been an enjoyable process.  I've taken my
time and not worked late and still made a minor mistake, I overlooked
installing J1 after D1 and did not figure it out until I was going to try
the phase one alignment and there was no where to plug power in.  Oops!  So
it looks like I need to be just a little more careful with phase two.

Ed

EMD wrote:
> 
> Hi Don,
> 
> That's a great idea with L6 the less rework I have to do only increases my
> chances of success. 
> 
> The soldering station I bought has three preset temps and you can also set
> an exact temp so hopefully cold solder joints will not be a problem. 
> 
> Thanks for the tip,
> 
> Ed Doyle
> KE7HGA
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: "Don Wilhelm-4 (via Nabble)"
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 05:49:57 
> To: EMD
> Subject: Re:  KX1 #02140
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ed,
> 
> You have made a wise choice.  There is one thing you can do to make 
> things easier when you add the KXB3080 - mount L6 on the bottom of the 
> KX1 board during the initial build.
> 
> Other than that small item, follow the manual carefully and build in the 
> order indicated in the manual.  The KX1 is packed tight with components, 
> so pay particular attention to the 'mechanical' side of the 
> instructions.  Work at your own pace, and do not work on it when you are 
> tired.
> 
> If you are not experienced at soldering PC boards with thru-plated 
> holes, take a look at the Soldering Tutorial on the Elecraft Builder's 
> Resource page.  For the KX1 especially, but it goes for other kits too, 
> pay attention to the amount of solder - apply no more than necessary to 
> fill the hole plus a very small amount to flow into a smooth fillet.  
> Use a sufficiently high temperature (700-750 deg F) and watch the solder 
> as it melts and flows - it should flow out to a smooth, almost invisible 
> edge on both the component lead and the solder pad.  Insufficient heat 
> and the solder may melt, but not flow resulting in a bad connection, and 
> excess solder can look like a solid connection, but mask a poorly heated 
> solder joint.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> EMD wrote:
>> Hello Elecrafters,
>>
>> Well I will start building my KX1 in a few days.  I have been getting the
>> required equipment and being a first time builder I feel a little over
>> whelmed but reading all the the hints and tips on the reflector has made
>> it
>> a lot easier.  So far I have what I think will get me started, the big
>> item
>> was a soldering station.  I bought a Radio Shack Digital soldering
>> station
>> which is basically a Madell AT201D.  I did not realize that the RS
>> version
>> did not come with extra tips but after a few minutes on the comments
>> section
>> I found out where the tips are available, at madell.com of course.  The
>> tip
>> included I don't think would work well since it's a needle tip so I
>> ordered
>> the spade tip recommended by Elecraft, plus 2 extras.  I also bought a
>> anti
>> static mat and Kester #44 solder 0.025" diameter 3.3% Flux from Digi-Key.
>>
>> My plan is to first build the radio and follow the alignment steps, then
>> add
>> the antenna tuner.  Once the radio is complete I'll learn how to use it,
>> not
>> to mention CW, and then add the the 30 80 meter add on board.  I thought
>> about adding the 3080m board at the same time but since I have not built
>> a
>> kit since my high school days I don't want to get ahead of myself so I
>> think
>> the one thing at a time plan would be best for me.
>>
>> I have not bought any de-soldering equipment yet but but I'm sure that
>> will
>> be next on the list. I am looking forward to getting started and I'm
>> already
>> looking ahead to building the K1 and then the k2.
>>
>> Ed
>>   
>>   
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> 
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> 
> This email is a reply to your post @
> http://n2.nabble.com/KX1--02140-tp2295382p2297257.html
> You can reply by email or by visting the link above.
> 
> 
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 #02140

2009-02-09 Thread EMD

Hi Don,

That's a great idea with L6 the less rework I have to do only increases my 
chances of success. 

The soldering station I bought has three preset temps and you can also set an 
exact temp so hopefully cold solder joints will not be a problem. 

Thanks for the tip,

Ed Doyle
KE7HGA

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: "Don Wilhelm-4 (via Nabble)" 

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 05:49:57 
To: EMD
Subject: Re:  KX1 #02140





Ed,

You have made a wise choice.  There is one thing you can do to make 
things easier when you add the KXB3080 - mount L6 on the bottom of the 
KX1 board during the initial build.

Other than that small item, follow the manual carefully and build in the 
order indicated in the manual.  The KX1 is packed tight with components, 
so pay particular attention to the 'mechanical' side of the 
instructions.  Work at your own pace, and do not work on it when you are 
tired.

If you are not experienced at soldering PC boards with thru-plated 
holes, take a look at the Soldering Tutorial on the Elecraft Builder's 
Resource page.  For the KX1 especially, but it goes for other kits too, 
pay attention to the amount of solder - apply no more than necessary to 
fill the hole plus a very small amount to flow into a smooth fillet.  
Use a sufficiently high temperature (700-750 deg F) and watch the solder 
as it melts and flows - it should flow out to a smooth, almost invisible 
edge on both the component lead and the solder pad.  Insufficient heat 
and the solder may melt, but not flow resulting in a bad connection, and 
excess solder can look like a solid connection, but mask a poorly heated 
solder joint.

73,
Don W3FPR

73,
Don W3FPR

EMD wrote:
> Hello Elecrafters,
>
> Well I will start building my KX1 in a few days.  I have been getting the
> required equipment and being a first time builder I feel a little over
> whelmed but reading all the the hints and tips on the reflector has made it
> a lot easier.  So far I have what I think will get me started, the big item
> was a soldering station.  I bought a Radio Shack Digital soldering station
> which is basically a Madell AT201D.  I did not realize that the RS version
> did not come with extra tips but after a few minutes on the comments section
> I found out where the tips are available, at madell.com of course.  The tip
> included I don't think would work well since it's a needle tip so I ordered
> the spade tip recommended by Elecraft, plus 2 extras.  I also bought a anti
> static mat and Kester #44 solder 0.025" diameter 3.3% Flux from Digi-Key.
>
> My plan is to first build the radio and follow the alignment steps, then add
> the antenna tuner.  Once the radio is complete I'll learn how to use it, not
> to mention CW, and then add the the 30 80 meter add on board.  I thought
> about adding the 3080m board at the same time but since I have not built a
> kit since my high school days I don't want to get ahead of myself so I think
> the one thing at a time plan would be best for me.
>
> I have not bought any de-soldering equipment yet but but I'm sure that will
> be next on the list. I am looking forward to getting started and I'm already
> looking ahead to building the K1 and then the k2.
>
> Ed
>   
>   
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You can reply by email or by visting the link above.



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[Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 #02140

2009-02-08 Thread EMD

Hello Elecrafters,

Well I will start building my KX1 in a few days.  I have been getting the
required equipment and being a first time builder I feel a little over
whelmed but reading all the the hints and tips on the reflector has made it
a lot easier.  So far I have what I think will get me started, the big item
was a soldering station.  I bought a Radio Shack Digital soldering station
which is basically a Madell AT201D.  I did not realize that the RS version
did not come with extra tips but after a few minutes on the comments section
I found out where the tips are available, at madell.com of course.  The tip
included I don't think would work well since it's a needle tip so I ordered
the spade tip recommended by Elecraft, plus 2 extras.  I also bought a anti
static mat and Kester #44 solder 0.025" diameter 3.3% Flux from Digi-Key.

My plan is to first build the radio and follow the alignment steps, then add
the antenna tuner.  Once the radio is complete I'll learn how to use it, not
to mention CW, and then add the the 30 80 meter add on board.  I thought
about adding the 3080m board at the same time but since I have not built a
kit since my high school days I don't want to get ahead of myself so I think
the one thing at a time plan would be best for me.

I have not bought any de-soldering equipment yet but but I'm sure that will
be next on the list. I am looking forward to getting started and I'm already
looking ahead to building the K1 and then the k2.

Ed
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