Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and external batteries

2019-06-23 Thread Ed - K9EW
See the ad5x.com website for both manual and automatic solutions.

Ed, k9ew

On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 2:16 AM Howard Orridge via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> I have a bunch of Lipos from a different and less venerable hobby which
> can comfortably work between 13.2v and 15.4v, but have avoided use with the
> KX3 because of the 9v to 15v range. Has anyone risked a visit from Puff the
> Magic Dragon or should I nerd out and add a voltage limiter/ cut out
> circuit?
> 73
> Howard
> 2E0HWO
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] Proposal for Mono-band Elecraft

2011-04-08 Thread Ed - K9EW
There are several monoband choices available already, but what I
haven't found is one for 10m.  With the sunspot cycle on the rise,
this would be a very desirable rig, and possibly the only source for
one on that band.  And by all means, make it a 4-pole crystal filter.

ed - k9ew

On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 2:04 PM, Doug Person  wrote:
> Dave is hard at work developing some new products which he won't comment
> on.  The DSW was a nice little rig. Wish I hadn't sold mine.  But that
> is certainly the general idea. A nice little single band at half the
> cost or less and half the size of the K1.
>
> Doug -- K0DXV
>
> On 4/8/2011 9:59 AM, Mike Morrow wrote:
>> Doug wrote:
>>
>>> One other thing: I really wish Wayne and Eric would peal off one of
>>> their talented junior engineers and design a K0. (K zero).  A single
>>> band superhet with 2-3 watts out and super compact.
>> So...maybe a K0-15 for 15 meters.  I like that concept.
>>
>> Before the K1 became available in 2000, I had built three of Dave Benson's
>> Small Wonder Labs DSW series of mono-band PIC- and DDS-technology QRP rigs.
>> I still have the DSW-20, -30, and -40 and they remain great and very
>> innovative QRP transceivers.  Wonderful rigs!
>>
>> My only issue with those $130 (in 1999) units was that the operating system
>> allowed ONLY iambic mode B keying, which I consider an abomination. :-)
>> However, Jackson Harbor Press produced a direct plug-in replacement PIC
>> (controller) for $7 (!!) called the DSWK that offered many additional
>> features over the original SWL PIC, including selectable iambic keying
>> mode (just like Elecraft).
>>
>> The DSW (and later DSW-II) with the DSWK PIC created what is IMHO still
>> the neatest small mono-band QRP rig of all time.  Unfortunately, Dave
>> discontinued the DSW series several years ago, leaving that market empty.
>> I regret not having purchased a DSW-II-80 when it was available.
>>
>> Today I almost always use the K1, but sometimes I will take one of the DSWs
>> when I just want a very small mono-band set.
>>
>> Elecraft advanced the PIC/DDS concept to the multi-band feature-rich KX1 all
>> in a small package, yet I also believe there's still something appealing 
>> about
>> a smaller, simpler, mono-band rig.  A new Elecraft rig that combined some
>> characteristics of the SWL DSW-II and the (don't laugh) MFJ Cub would be 
>> great.
>> The DSW characteristic would mean a rig that needed NO LED or LCD display.  
>> All
>> control response output would be Morse.  The MFJ Cub characteristic would 
>> mean
>> a rig with all the "boring drudgery" components being machine pre-assembled
>> surface-mounted to the PCB.  Only a few major components that mostly 
>> determine
>> the operating frequency would be required to be hand assembled by the 
>> builder.
>> Such a rig could be put together in an evening while encountering much less
>> opportunity for construction error.  (There'd be much less demand on Elecraft
>> tech support for troubleshooting.)  Choose a DDS chip that can be clocked
>> high enough to allow a 15m model, use a four-pole IF filter, and provide an
>> AGC circuit.  Mono-band CW perfection!
>>
>> I'd buy a couple, maybe more.
>>
>> Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] KX-2 wish list

2010-10-29 Thread Ed - K9EW
At first, I passed over this thread.  But then I remembered a couple
of changes I would like to see in my KX-1

I use my KX-1 for portable operation when we go camping, hiking, or
sometimes in a local park or forest preserve.  I have never used the
KX-1 for anything other than CW QSO's, ie no SWL'ing.  So the
improvement I would like to see is to have a fixed bandwidth (500Hz)
4-pole crystal filter in the IF.  When the band is active, and
especially during sprints, that extra pole of filtering would be a big
plus.

That's it... a small change (maybe 3 additional parts for the
additional pole of filtering, and remove a few parts since it's now a
fixed bandwidth) for a big improvement in performance.  This would
seem like a pretty simple mod, and it's on my list of projects - just
haven't gotten to it yet.  (If anyone has already done this, I'd
really like to hear from you.)

73,
ed - k9ew
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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 BC interference on 20m

2008-08-25 Thread Ed - K9EW
Hi Stephen,

It might help if you could identify the SW stations you're hearing,
and find out what frequency they're on.  What you could be hearing is
a very strong signal on the receiver's image frequency, and the only
thing you could do would be to add more selectivity to the front end
to attenuate the signal on the image frequency.  Ask Elecraft, they
would know.
73,
ed - k9ew
www.k9ew.us\
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Re: [Elecraft] simple iambic paddle

2008-04-24 Thread Ed - K9EW
Hi Brian,

Take a look at my website ( www.k9ew.us )for some homebrew key /
paddle ideas.  Most were copied or adapted from the designs of others
that I found on the Internet.  Look under Projects / Paddles and Keys.

They are very low-tech, and don't require much skill to build.  And
they all work!

73,
ed - k9ew
www.k9ew.us

On Thu, Apr 24, 2008 at 11:39 AM, Brian Lloyd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Knowing the penchant for CW that many of you have, I thought I would ask the
> following question here.
>
> Does anyone have a design for a very simple iambic key that can be made with
> simple materials and hand tools? The kids are starting to send CW and I am
> finding they are having a LOT of trouble with a straight key. Most
> immediately gravitate to the bencher so I am trying to find a way to make a
> $5 paddle.
>
> Brian Lloyd
> Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
> brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
> +1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)
>
> PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
> PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 backlight

2007-08-30 Thread Ed - K9EW
Hi Paul,

I've found that putting some flux on the solderwick braid helps
tremendously in drawing out the solder on the pads and in the holes
without overheating them.

I take a new roll of solderwick, pull out about 2 feet of braid, and
apply liquid soldering flux to it and let it soak in overnight.  Then
I roll it back onto the spool, and I'm ready for the next repair.

73,
ed - k9ew
www.k9ew.us
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Re: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED]

2007-08-14 Thread Ed - K9EW
Hi Jack,

In my shack, the carrier on 14.030 is from my Linksys Wireless router.

73,
ed - k9ew
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[Elecraft] IMPROVED SELECTIVITY FOR THE KX1?

2007-08-05 Thread Ed - K9EW
Has anyone modified the crystal filter in the KX1 for better
selectivity for CW operation?  Is the selectivity limited by physical
constraints (filter leakage), or would a 4-pole 500 Hz
(non-adjustable) filter be an improvement?

tnx es 73,
ed - k9ew
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: sending PSK31

2007-05-25 Thread Ed - K9EW

The 8-pin plugs are available at your local Radio Shack (#274-001A).

73,

ed - k9ew


The hardest part of it all was locating an 8-pin mic plug for sale in
the US -- Cheapham.com came through.

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Re: [Elecraft] Shortened w3edp

2007-05-18 Thread Ed - K9EW

Hi Tom,


From "Practical Wire Antennas", by John D Heys, B3BDQ, page 33:  "The

W3EDP antenna, when examined (Fig 33), looks something like an end-fed
Zepp with a 68ft (20.7m) top and a 17ft (5.2m) feedline.  The feeder
is rather unusual in that the wires which make it up need not be
parallel."

I'd describe it as an 85 foot wire (a "68ft top and a 17ft feedline"),
and you either use/don't use a separate 17 foot wire as a
"counterpoise" (the other half of the feedline).  This "counterpoise"
wire is used on 40m, 20m, and 15m.  It is not used on 80m and 10m.

If you can give up 80m, you can make the antenna shorter.

Hope this is the information you were looking for.

73,
ed - k9ew


On 5/18/07, Thom LaCosta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I have gotten confused again about the w3edp antenna.

Some things say it's somewhere bewteen 84 to 89 feet long with a 17 foot
counterpoiseone post said it's a total of 84 feet, and of that 17 feet are
counterpoise.the g3ycc website says 84 feet long and different lengths
of counterpoise based on band and then there are folks like myself that
used 85 feet with 1/4 wave counterpoises for all bands worked.

I can no longer avail myself of a convenient telephone pole across the street
from the front of my houseand in the back I have very little space.

So, if one were to attempt to make a short w3edp, what might the length of the
radiator and the counterpoise be?

I remember seeing a post about various lengths that would make effective
non-resonat end fed wiresbut I can't find it

Thanks

Thom

www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon
www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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[Elecraft] CHANGE IN K9EW WEBSITE URL

2007-03-06 Thread Ed - K9EW

My new website is at www.k9ew.us.

tnx es 73,
ed - k9ew
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT1 (K1) & end-fed halfwave wire antenna

2007-01-19 Thread Ed - K9EW

Has anyone tried either method?  (That is,
direct connection of halfwave end-fed or tapping an inductor.)


Hi Mike,

This topic comes around every few months, so you can find a lot of
knowledge - both theoretical and practical - by searching the TenTec
and QRP-L archives for 'End Fed Halfwave' or 'EFHW'.

Most EFHW antennas use either an impedance transformer wound on a
toroid (Steve, AA5TB), a parallel LC with a tapped L (Don, W3FPR), or
a series L / shunt C matching network (Steve, KD1JV).  My apologies if
I got the references wrong.

All the above methods work.  I have not done enough work with EFHW
antennas myself to draw my own conclusion yet, but my *impression* is
that it's a convenient antenna for portable use, but not as good as a
conventional dipole (which is not as convenient to set up as a simple
wire).  I'm sure you'll get a variety of responses because this seems
to be a favorite topic.

73,
ed - k9ew
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Windows UTC Clock?

2007-01-17 Thread Ed - K9EW

A simple, easy to use, no frills UTC clock can be downloaded from
k2vco's website at http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/.  It's near the bottom of
the page.  And it's free.

73,
ed - k9ew

On 1/17/07, Jeff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Hi gang,

Does anyone know of a software clock that will display UTC on the Windows
desktop or, perhaps, in the system tray, beside the regular Windows clock?
I don't want to change my Windows clock to UTC -- I want to be able to see
both local time and UTC at a glance.  I could simply use a physical clock
external to the PC, but that would mean buying an illuminated 24-hour clock,
and I'm trying to minimize the amount of clutter on my operating desk.  My
K2 has a clock mode, but it's not very convenient, since the time isn't
displayed continuously.

Thanks very much for any ideas & 73,
Jeff
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Long Island, NY

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Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Kangaroo KX1!

2006-12-03 Thread Ed - K9EW

Following up on Don's suggestions, put the KX1 in the 'fridge, and
check it for key down output once a minute.  If there's a sudden drop
in power, it's likely a solder connection.  If it's a gradual drop,
it's probably not a solder connection.  I'd keep the batteries outside
the fridge to eliminate them as the cause of your no output problem.
If you don't see the problem, put the batteries in the fridge and
repeat the test.

Let us know what you find.

73 - ed, k9ew.


On 12/3/06, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ed,
>
> Before going too far with the Freeze-Mist treatment, try reflowing the
> soldering.  I would suspect a solder joint that makes and breaks as the PC
> board changes size slightly with the temperature change.  Especially check
> the toroid lead soldering.  The soldering is much higher on my suspect list
> than any component.
>
> Does it receive even though it does not transmit?  If that answer is yes,
> you can rule out the DDS and any of its associated components from the
> suspect list.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Edward R. Breneiser
> > Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 9:14 AM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Kangaroo KX1!
> >
> >
> > Hello all,
> >
> > Well I now have what's called a Kangaroo KX1!
> > It hiked 2-miles up the mountain to Pulpit Rock on the AT.
> > I setup my BW Vertical and my KX1. I then hit the tune buttons and NO
> > POWER OUTPUT! I then put my KX1 under my shirt to warm it up. I waited
> > about five minutes and hooked it up to my BW - full power output 4w!
> >
> > I had to do this every qso and make the qso short so I could keep my KX1
> > transmitting in the cold weather that was below freezing. So during the
> > breaks, I was walking around with my KX1 tucked on my belly under my two
> > shirts and two fleece jackets just like a Kangaroo thus the name
> > "Kangaroo KX1."
> >
> > I will troubleshoot my KX1 soon with freeze mist. I plan to first put my
> > KX1 tuner in the CAL mode to bypass it and see if the problem is in the
> > tuner. If not then hit the transmitter with Freeze-Mist to find the bad
> > component.
> >
> > 72,
> > Ed,WA3WSJ
> >
> >
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 power mod

2006-11-08 Thread Ed - K9EW

Here's the link to the KX1 Power Mod on the Elecraft website.  I
searched for it also and couldn't find it.  So I tried a Google
search, and there it was - very well hidden.  Don't know why it isn't
easier to find along with the other Elecraft mods.

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740099%20KX1%20Application%20Note%20Rev%20A.pdf

72/73,
ed - k9ew

On 11/8/06, Joseph Trombino Jr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I've recently seen reference to a KX1 power modwhere can I find this mod
and what version of the KX1 is it used on??

I checked the Elecraft site but didn't find it...did I miss something on the
site??

   73, Joe W2KJ
   K1, KX1, K2, I QRP, therefore I am


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[Elecraft] ALL BOATANCHORS ARE SPOKEN FOR

2006-08-23 Thread Ed - K9EW

The response was overwhelming... In less than 24hr, all boatanchors
were spoken for.  I will respond individually to everyone who emailed
me, but I just wanted to say "Thanks" right now, and to let you know
you will be hearing from me later today.

It was really gratifying to see how many are still interested in this
part of Ham History.

73,
ed - k9ew
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[Elecraft] ANCHORS AWAY !!!

2006-08-22 Thread Ed - K9EW

It's time to find a new home for many of the Boatanchors that I
haven't used in quite a while and probably never will.  Of course,
I'll probably regret this once they're gone, but it seems like they
deserve to be used more than I'm using them.

So here goes...

FOR SALE:
DX-100B  ($200 - too heavy to ship)
DX-35  ($75 + shipping)
DX-20  ($65 + shipping)
HQ-170  ($175 + shipping)
VIKING RANGER ($250 + shipping)
GLOBE CHIEF 90A  ($150 + shipping)
VIBROPLEX SINGLE LEVER PADDLE  ($50 + shipping)

Photos will be on www.k9ew.net this evening.  Please contact me
Off-List if you're interested.

Tnx es 73,
ed - k9ew
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[Elecraft] FS: KX1 WITH ATU

2006-07-12 Thread Ed - K9EW

I have for sale a KX1 with the KXAT1 Antenna Tuner in excellent condition.
This is a   2 - band unit covering 20m and 40m, and includes the original
manual. I have used this rig on the air, and it works great.  $350 including
shipping.  Please contact me off-list if you're interested.

Tnx es 72/73,
ed - k9ew
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[QRP-L] WTB: KX1

2006-06-24 Thread Ed - K9EW

Hello,

I'm looking for a KX1 - built, partially built, or still in kit form.  If
you have one you would like to find a new home for, please contact me
off-list.

Tnx es 73,
ed - k9ew
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Re: [Elecraft] Feeding the Halfwave Ant

2006-06-13 Thread Ed - K9EW

Hi Steve,

As long as you mentioned the inverted vee, I thought I'd offer this to think
about.  I have been using a 20m center-fed inverted vee with very good
results.  And here's the great thing about it... it's a coil of TV
twinlead.  One end of the twinlead is split to form the two arms of the vee
(each approximately 17 feet long), and then the remainder of the twinlead
becomes the feedline which you can connect directly to your rig.  The only
constraint is that the feedline portion of the twinlead *must be* an
electrical half-wavelength long (about 29 feet, depending on the velocity
factor of the twinlead you use) in order to present a 72 ohm impedance to
your rig.  It's small (rolled up), lightweight, and requires one branch
about 30 feet off the ground for the vertex.  At this height, it's
approaching a half-wavelength above the ground which is great for
the radiation pattern.  The ends are tied off with small ropes to stakes (or
rocks) 30 feet from where the feedline would touch the ground.  This will
give you a 90 degree angle at the vertex.  It's balanced, so no
counterpoise.  And it works just like a "home" antenna.

72/73,
ed - k9ew


On 6/13/06, n0tu/Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


It seems to me the endfed half-wave inverted vee should give me the
same result as the center fed inverted vee and have the benefit of
leaving the feedline at home.

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question for KX1

2006-04-29 Thread Ed - K9EW

Hi Paul,

Without modeling your antenna, I don't know what the feedpoint impedances
are, but it's a good thing that you can match them with the KX-1.  The 20
foot length of coax is transforming the impedance to something outside the
range of your KX-1, and a balun wouldn't help unless (perhaps) it was also
an impedance transformer.

Hope this answers your question.

73,
ed - k9ew
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[Elecraft] WTB: RG-178

2006-03-17 Thread Ed - K9EW
I was sure I had some RG-178 in the wirebox next to the bench, but now that
I've reached that part of the project it's disappeared.  I need about 10
feet (+/-) to make the needed connections.  Does anyone have some of this
coax they'd like to sell?  If you do, please contact me off-list.

Tnx es 73,
ed - k9ew
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Re: [Elecraft] Xtal Socket - a bit off topic

2006-03-05 Thread Ed - K9EW
If you use an octal socket, as Don suggests, you can plug in two crystals,
and switch between them - an old boatanchor trick.

73,
ed - k9ew


On 3/5/06, Ken Kaplan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I'm searching for an FT-243 crystal holder,
> the type used on DX-40's, Eico 723's and a
> million other 60's transmitters.
>
> I've done a bit of searching on the internet
> but no luck.
>
> Please contact off list: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> tnx & 73
> Ken WB2ART
> www.wb2art.com
> www.unpcbs.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Switch between two rigs

2006-03-02 Thread Ed - K9EW
Hi Lee,

If your coax switch had 60db of isolation between ports (that's about the
most you could expect for small $$$), that would mean that a 100 watt signal
into Port A would produce a 0.1 milliwatt signal on Port B.  While
0.1milliwatt into the receiver on Port B shouldn't destroy the front
end, it is
a whopping big signal.  I used to switch my boatanchor rigs with coax
switches, but finally decided to use the method described by Don (the old
'disconnect and short' method).  I have carried this method over to my QRP
rigs.  I use a piece of aluminum angle stock from the local hardware store
with HF feedthrough connectors, to connect to the rigs.  The antenna goes to
one of the rigs, and the other connectors have shorting plugs in them.  Ron
makes an excellent point about SWR.  One tune-up into a high SWR (who hasn't
done that?), could ruin your day.  I'll trade the inconvenience of
disconnecting the unused rig for the peace of mind that neither rig will be
over-stressed.  You can probably still monitor one rig with the other
without having a direct connection.

73,
ed - k9ew
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 filter alignment?

2006-03-02 Thread Ed - K9EW
Hi Keith,

The crystal filter in the IF will filter out the unwanted sideband (on the
other side of zero beat), but if the signal is strong enough it will still
get through the filter and you will hear it.  What you're hearing may be
normal.  If it only happens on VERY strong signals, I'd say there's no need
to make any adjustments.

Hope I didn't spoil your fun.

73,
ed - k9ew

=
Is there something I should look at or is this just the way the rig is?

I did not build this K1 so I'm learning it from the other direction.

- Keith -
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Re: [Elecraft] can rf interference get into a k2?

2006-02-02 Thread Ed - K9EW
A good starting point would be to operate into a dummy load.  If there's no
interference, then you're dealing with energy radiating from the antenna -
not a K2 problem.  If there is interference, that narrows the possibilities
to the K2, the dummy load, the coax, and ... the power supply.

Hope this helps.
ed - k9ew


On 2/2/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I'm having problems with rf interference when attempting to transmit.
> I have a list of possibilities which don't need exposure here, but I do
> want to know if the K2 with the rear cover it comes with with all of
> the unfilled openings can allow rf into a place where it could be a
> problem?
>
> Should I block the holes?
>
> I would be delighted to find out this isn't a possibility in any case,
>
> 73,  John Ferguson KI4NGH
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Re: [Elecraft] QRP viability during solar cycle min?

2006-01-11 Thread Ed - K9EW
Fear not the sunspot cycle, Darwin.  In the past 18 months, I have completed
WAS with 5w and a dipole.  I currently have 49 states with 1 watt, and 44
states with 100mW.  I think I enjoy the challenge of the sunspot trough more
than "shooting fish in a barrel" during the sunspot peak.  The feeling of
accomplishment is greater.  Just be patient, and when the bands are good,
get on and make some QSO's.  When condx are poor, read up on what makes for
good propagation conditions.

72 es good luck,
ed - k9ew
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 minimum power our

2005-12-25 Thread Ed - K9EW
My K2 will usually go down to 100mW, but it's a borderline power level and
pretty touchy.  When I go into the TUNE position, it will sometimes indicate
not enough power to make an SWR measurement.  I've found it more reliable
and accurate to set it at 1W, and use a 10dB pad on the output.  If you're
driving another stage with the K2, the 10dB pad will provide excellent
isolation and your K2 will never see more than a 2:1 SWR.  The only problem
is in the receive mode; you'll have to switch out the 10dB pad for best
receive performance.

Hope this answers your question.

73,
ed - k9ew
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