Re: [Elecraft] OT Looking for PC advice.

2016-05-23 Thread Eric Ross
I work at a large corporation that generally keeps the technology reasonably 
current and we are still standardized on Win 7 Enterprise.  I have not run into 
any apps that are supported on Win 10 and not supported on Win 7.  The drive to 
upgrade has significantly decreased.  That is why the upgrade nags were 
implemented.  People are not seeing the need to upgrade.

Eric
KB7TD

> On May 23, 2016, at 3:25 PM, Phil Kane  wrote:
> 
> On 5/23/2016 12:12 AM, F5vjc wrote:
> 
>> Do you guys prefer Win 7 or 10 for Ham radio apps.
> 
> I have a 6-year old Dell tower for my business and personal use and a
> 3-year old Dell laptop for my ham radio use.  Both of them run Win 7 Pro
> 64 bit.
> 
> I tried "upgrading" the laptop to Win 10.  Too much effort on defusing
> all of the nasty Microsoft "call home" stuff and auto-updating (I prefer
> to see and review each and every "patch" before letting it run).  Even
> with ClassicShell (which I use on all of my computers) I could not get
> Win 10 to look and behave the way I wanted.  I had to re-install Win 7
> on the laptop because it was beyond the 30-day "easy rollback" period
> and fortunately I had the "reinstall media" from Dell.
> 
> Bottom line - I am sticking to Win 7 as long as I have those computers
> and when either needs replacing I will order new ones with Win 7
> installed (not-so-secret that one can still do it if one is a good
> customer of the supplier).
> 
> 
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Unplugging the radio to protect it

2015-10-08 Thread Eric Ross
On my computer equipment, including routers/switches, I have become a
very strong advocate of putting a full UPS between the wall and the
device.   When I say full UPS I mean one that is always sourcing the
device from the battery and not directly being fed from the primary
source.  The drawback of this is that they use a step-wise approximation
of AC on the output.   I haven't tried it directly with my K3 to see
what noise gets through, but my computer, which is right next to it  is
not emitting anything worth noting.  This way both power and network are
relatively protected coming into my computers.  I don't have any phone
lines connected to the computers either.  All my voice via the computer
is through the network.  The only route into the K3 is then the primary
power supply and the antenna.  I have also plan to put a battery between
the power supply and the radio just for backup power needs as well which
will then narrow it down to the antenna as the primary energy source.

Eric
kb7td


On Thu, Oct 8, 2015, at 12:34 PM, Eric Ross wrote:
> On my computer equipment, including routers/switches, I have become a
> very strong advocate of putting a full UPS between the wall and the
> device. 
> When I say full UPS I mean one that is always sourcing the device from
> the battery and not directly being fed from the primary source.  The
> drawback
> of this is that they use a step-wise approximation of AC on the output. 
> I haven't tried it directly with my K3 to see what noise gets
> through, but my computer, which is right next to it  is not emitting
> anything worth noting.  This way both power and network are relatively
> protected coming into my computers.  I don't have any phone lines
> connected to the computers either.  All my voice via the computer is
> through the network.  The only route into the K3 is then the primary
> power supply
> and the antenna.  I have also plan to put a battery between the power
> supply and
> the radio just for backup power needs as well which will then narrow it
> down to the antenna as the primary energy source.
> 
> Eric
> kb7td
> 
> On Thu, Oct 8, 2015, at 12:02 PM, Pierfrancesco Caci wrote:
> > >>>>> "Elecraft" == Elecraft K3  writes:
> > 
> > 
> > Elecraft> Hmm, this thread has got me wondering if a fiber optics
> > Elecraft> telecom/tv/internet link provides some degree of
> > Elecraft> protection against distant lightning strikes. 
> > Elecraft> Seems like it should.
> > 
> > Yes, but the problem is your internal wiring. Even if you invest in a
> > switch with optical ports (they come cheap on the used market), and you
> > put an optical port in your main desktop PC, there are a lot of devices
> > that only have copper. What killed my access point was a ligthning strike
> > at
> > some distance coupling to a ~4 m long ethernet cable connecting the AP
> > to the switch.
> > 
> > Incidentally, fiber would help get rid of those nice carriers polluting
> > 12 and 10 m. 
> > 
> > Pf
> > 
> > -- 
> > Pierfrancesco Caci, ik5pvx
> > __
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> 
> 
> -- 
>   Eric Ross


-- 
Eric
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 v SubRX

2015-03-09 Thread Eric Ross
I am in full agreement.  I feel blind without my P3.  At a glance I can
tell if the band is active or not.  For example, last weekend with the
DX contest and the wide open 20m, the scope was almost solid in certain
spectrums.

I find that I use the subRX if I am getting bored on the 75m net and
want someone else to listen to.  I also find it useful for tuning in the
"+5" ahead of time before leaving the net with someone and making sure
that it is available.  I am not set up with a separate Rx antenna so I
can't comment on how useful diversity Rx is.

Bottom line, if I have to choose only one, I would choose the P3.

Eric, WB7SDE


On Mon, Mar 9, 2015, at 01:00 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> Don ‹
> 
> I agree with Dave.  I have both - the SubRX from the beginning and the P3
> a year or so later.  I have become addicted to the P3; but can¹t remember
> using the SubRX for anything other than chasing DX in pileups.  Even in
> contests, where operating a significant split is usually a no-no, the XIT
> alone has been enough while the subRX imposes a small but noticeable hit
> on weak-signal sensitivity.  But I am strictly CW - there may be
> advantages in other modes.
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> >Message: 8
> >Date: Mon, 09 Mar 2015 09:50:49 -0700
> >From: David Cole 
> >To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] My K3 needs pimping
> >Message-ID: <1425919849.15814.234.camel@nostromo.NK7Z>
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> >
> >Panadaptor, you will probably get more use from it than the sub rx.  I
> >do...  I had occasion to have it mine off for a bit, and it is crippling
> >to no longer have one...  I use it so much more than a sub RX.
> >-- 
> >Thanks and 73's,
> >For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
> >www.nk7z.net
> >for MixW support see;
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
> >for Dopplergram information see:
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
> >for MM-SSTV see:
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
> >
> >
> >On Mon, 2015-03-09 at 16:24 +, Don Putnick via Elecraft wrote:
> >> Okay, folks. Please advise me on a worthy cause - my K3. I'm a casual
> >>DXer and I don't contest. My main modes are SSB and soundcard digital.
> >>I'm fully stocked with roofing filters, and I have the KPA500 and
> >>KAT500. Should my next purchase be a subreceiver or a panadapter, and
> >>why? 73 Don NA6Z K3 #5495
> >> '
> >> __
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Little brown truck arrived w/ my K3!

2014-12-19 Thread Eric Ross
I also use and like the SignaLink.  

Here is a preview of your weekend.  Have fun with the build.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/

Eric
wb7sdeOn Dec 18, 2014 6:19 PM, Ken  wrote:
>
>
> > On Dec 18, 2014, at 8:56 PM, Chris Hallinan  wrote:
> > 
> > From some reading, I've heard that an external interface isn't required for
> > the digital modes?  Not sure about that.  Wonder what others are using for
> > external interface for digital modes?  I had a SignalLink USB at one point
> > and it worked quite well.
>
> Chris,
>
> One can, at least in theory, get by with feeding the audio directly between 
> the K3 and the computer.  However, from what I’ve read, adjustment is very 
> sensistive and it is more susceptible to hum , RF pickup, etc.  And you have 
> to deal with how your computer handles the audio (mixers, audio enhancement, 
> etc.)    The SignaLink is a good, simple, reliable interface, well worth it 
> IMO.
>
> Have fun and good luck with your construction.
>
> Ken WA8JXM
>
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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Eric Ross
I see the same thing, but only on 10m.  I just assumed (possibly erroneously) 
the power indication was not accurate and used the indicated 100w.  I don't 
have an external wattmeter to validate.  My antenna is tuned for 20m so tuning 
it is not that hard on 10m.

Eric
wb7sde

On December 14, 2014 9:23:15 PM PST, Matt VK2RQ  wrote:
>Maybe there is not enough voltage at the power input to the radio —
>possibly due to high resistance at your power connections or in your
>fuse holders? 
>
>73, Matt VK2RQ
>
>
>> On 15 Dec 2014, at 8:18 am, Bruce Chadbourne
> wrote:
>> 
>> To the list:
>> 
>> I occasionally get the Hi Current warning on my K3. I notice it cuts
>my
>> power back about 10% from 100w.  My initial assumption is that my SWR
>is
>> too high - but the SWR meter is easily less than 2.0  I run the ATU
>which
>> confirms SWR about 1.2 or so.
>> So what am I missing - something bad in my transmission line?
>> 
>> -- 
>> Bruce KE1CY
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Is the KX3 a good choice for a new General?

2014-12-06 Thread Eric Ross
I think it's almost better to get a much cheaper older rig first.  In my latest 
run as a ham I started with an old Kenwood TS140 for about $350.   It worked 
fine for what it could do.  It couldn't break apart pileups but it allowed me 
to make many QSOs.  However, when I got my K3--wow!  I don't think I could 
really appreciate the K3 unless I had first used a basic rig first.  I still 
get a thrill when I narrow the bandpass down to 50hz.

I still have the TS140 which is perfect for using in high risk environments 
and/or lending to the next new ham.

Eric
WB7SDE

On December 5, 2014 11:29:13 PM PST, Gary Gregory  wrote:
>Don
>
>You should add that the K3 has been around for quite awhile now so it
>has
>proven not just its performance but adoption by many knowledgeable hams
>around the world and has also proven very reliable operating in less
>than
>ideal conditionsask me how i know this:-)
>
>No better advertisement than customer satisfaction i supposegrin
>Gary
>Vk1ZZ
>K3, KX3, KPA500-FT, KAT500-FT,P3.
>On 06/12/2014 3:48 PM, "Don Wilhelm"  wrote:
>
>> Yes, simple is better, but if that new ham is interested in having a
>> top-notch station, he will be well advised to consider Elecraft gear.
> If
>> for no other reason than the Elecraft gear is upgradable -- one does
>not
>> have to buy the "whole ball of wax" at the initial purchase time, it
>can be
>> upgrades as operating needs arise.
>>
>> My typical response to new hams is that they do not yet know what
>they
>> will want for whatever type of operation they might eventually become
>> interested in, so yes, they should get some operating experience
>under
>> their belts before deciding on which rig they would want for their
>> station.  That can be simply a borrowed transceiver to get that new
>ham on
>> the air.
>>
>> However, if the new ham does not have  locals who will loan him
>> transceivers to "get on the air", the KX3 offers a great receiver,
>and a
>> limited number of options, which I believe will serve the novice
>operator
>> well for a very long time.  The only question is "do you want higher
>than
>> 15 watts power"?  If yes, then the KXPA100 is available and if you do
>not
>> have resonant antennas, the KXAT100 is a good wide range auto tuner.
>>
>> The K3 is also a good choice for beginning hams.  Many get hung up on
>what
>> filters to purchase with the K3, but my recommendation to the new ham
>is to
>> purchase no optional filters - the DSP provides gppd filtering except
>in
>> crowded band conditions such a contests and extreme DXing.  As
>operating
>> experience is gained, that new ham who has now been seasoned may want
>> additional filters, and they are easily added to the K3.  Likewise
>the
>> SubRX may be useful in some operating scenarios, but the new ham
>would not
>> know the advantages provided by the SubRX until he "gets his feet
>wet".
>> The price of a basic K3 or a basic KX3 is within the realm of other
>high
>> end transceivers on the market (and in fact may be priced less than
>many
>> other comparable transceivers).
>>
>> Bottom line, I would not hesitate to recommend a basic K3 or KX3 to
>any
>> new ham.  He will have a great receiver, and the options offered by
>> Elecraft can allow that new ham to customize his station by adding
>options
>> as his needs and operating experiences dictate.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 12/5/2014 10:55 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:
>>
>>> I really have to agree.  Simple is better to start with.  I don't
>>> consider the KX3 to be simple by any means.  Having some immediate
>success
>>> is the best way to keep a new ham interested.  I keep several
>loaners
>>> around that aren't worth very much on the used market but serve very
>well
>>> as starter rigs.  At least twice those loaners have gone to young
>men with
>>> an interest that eventually led to getting licensed. (Both now
>Extras).
>>>
>>> On the other hand, if a new ham has an accessible Elmer and has an
>>> opportunity for a short course in KX3 operating AND happens to be
>able to
>>> erect a decent antenna, it might indeed be a fine choice.
>>>
>>> Like a lot of things in life - it all depends...
>>>
>>> 73, Doug -- K0DXV
>>>
>>> On Thu, 04 Dec 2014 09:27:06 -0700, Don Butler 
>wrote:
>>>
>>>  There seems to be unanimous agreement here, but I beg to differ. 
>In my
 opinion, the KX3 is not ideal for a typical beginning general class
 operator.   I own a KX3 myself, and I think it's wonderful, and I
>doubt
 that
 I will ever part with it.  It shines when it comes to portable
>operation
 ..
 That's why I bought it, that's what I use it for, and it's by far
>the
 best
 portable rig I've ever owned.  I also have two K3s in my shack, and
>I use
 them when I'm operating there, which is the vast majority of the
>time.
  But
 let's face it, most beginning hams are forced to deal with budget
>limits,
 and a new KX3 is expensive.  The last time I checked, the cost o

Re: [Elecraft] Android App for CW

2014-12-04 Thread Eric Ross
I generated some nice sounding cw mp3's for my ringtone using this site:

http://www.morseresource.com/morse/makemorse.php

Eric,

WB7SDE

On Thu, Dec 4, 2014, at 12:56 PM, Eric Ross wrote:
> I generated some nice sounding cw mp3's for my ringtone using this site:
> 
> http://www.morseresource.com/morse/makemorse.php
> 
> Eric,
> 
> WB7SDE
> 
> 
> On Thu, Dec 4, 2014, at 12:16 PM, Mark via Elecraft wrote:
> > I tried several of these apps, but none of them really did what I wanted.
> >  I finally recorded a separate ringtone for each person I wanted by using
> > the Samsung Voice Recorder on my Galaxy S5.  I  used the sidetone from my
> > KX3 and a CW Touch Keyer to eliminate “paddle clatter”.  I suppose you
> > could hook the KX3 audio directly into the S5 mic input, but I did it the
> > easy way and just set the phone next to the radio, hit record, and
> > started sending.
> > 
> > 
> > Using this technique, I can keep the ringtone short (i.e. AMY, KELLY,
> > etc.).  I find that it is much less confusing when standing in the
> > supermarket checkout line.  It isn't automatic, though, and you must
> > assign each recorded ringtone file to the caller name in your contacts
> > list.
> > 
> > 
> > Mark,
> > 
> > KE6BB
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> 
> 
> -- 
>   Eric Ross


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Microphone Hum

2014-10-23 Thread Eric Ross
I also had a hum caused when my SIgnalink device was connected to the
computer but NOT powered on.

Eric - WB7SDE

On Thu, Oct 23, 2014, at 11:01 AM, Bill Breeden wrote:
> 
> I noticed an AC hum in the monitor audio in my headphones while calling 
> with one of the W1AW portables.  While wondering if the hum was really 
> in my transmit audio, the W1AW Operator came back to me and reported the 
> hum.  I use a Heil Proset K2/K3 via the front panel microphone connector 
> through a Kenwood style (red band) Heil pigtail.  After completing the 
> QSO I switched to Test mode and I could still hear the hum when I 
> transmitted.  Thinking I had a poor connection, I disconnected and 
> reconnected both ends of the pigtail, but the hum persisted.  While 
> doing that I noticed there was no hum if I activated the push to talk 
> with microphone unplugged from the pigtail.  That had me baffled for a 
> few moments until I remembered that the Proset K2/K3 requires bias 
> voltage from the K3.  At that point I used the "2" button in the "MIC 
> SEL" menu to turn the bias off and on a few times and the hum was 
> disappeared.  I haven't researched the details of the bias switching 
> arrangement in the K3 but it appears that mine needed some exercise to 
> clear a bad connection.  I thought I would pass this on to the rest of 
> the group in case someone else encounters this issue.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Bill - NA5DX
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Verticals

2014-09-11 Thread Eric Ross
Bill brings up a good point.  For some people the results are all that
count and 100 foot tower with multi-element beams and legal limit amps
is the only way to go.  Fortunately, that is only some people.  I listen
to friends who have been very successful with a long wire and a 10 watt
QRP rig (in one case a crystal tuner) and who have had many successful
DX QSO's.  This is exciting to me because it requires one to know every
part of the system from top to bottom in order to squeeze out the
maximum capabilities.  Sure, its not in the "unlimited" class, but the
same challenges and excitement are there.  The person you can hook up
their shop's metal roof and hold a conversations across the country
deserves my applause.  I also applaud those who did the careful planning
and care to create a elegant "super" station.  Ham radio is fun
precisely because it is so many things to so many people.  

In the past I used a Hustler 5BTV and recently a simple trap dipole and
they do different things.  Right now I really like my NVIS dipole
because I spend most of my time chatting with the locals and DX is not
that important to me.  I am sure that I will be experimenting with
something different in the future.

Eric, WB7SDE


On Thu, Sep 11, 2014, at 02:14 PM, William Levy wrote:
> I think some folks misconstrued my Vertical comments.
> They work. They load. They radiate.
> They worked for me in the circuit I wanted to complete.
> Doesn't matter what the other station has.
> 
> The first time I was  5Z4PI it was 1973 and I had a Hallicrafters Safari
> rig.
> Beauty of that rig was built in 12/110 and 240 supplies.
> One VFO, long before the dreaded RIT was invented.
> Made a trap dipole. Printed 250 qsl cards.
> 
> In those days I was running a 100 watts and a dipole.
> When the States opened up the guys I worked ran 4 el Hygain 204BA's and
> KWs.
> 
> That isn't the important thing.
> 
> Before the states were open I worked everyone else in the world with
> modest
> transceivers and antennas with my dipole and 100 watts. The only reason
> we
> have giant towers and amps today is because everyone else in this wealthy
> country does.
> 
> But before the band is open to the states all the DX is very happy
> working
> the rest of the world with modest gear.
> 
>  The other night I heard a fellow in Pakistan tune and then call CQ on
>  the
> frequency my KX3 was tuned to.
> KX3 ran 10 watts to a Log Periodic. He barely heard me, said I was in and
> out of the noise.
> When I powered the baby amp on he could hear me Q5.
> 
> Back to my old R5. It worked as good as the trap dipole did 15 years
> earlier. Perfect for ragchewing and hamming up.
> 
> The rest of the world is very happy playing a different game then us
> before
> the bands open up to the States!
> WE are nothing but a wall of noise.
> 
> I am glad we have K3's that are bullet proof to adjacent channels and can
> tune down to 100 cycles.
> It's beautifully made stuff and I wouldn't leave home without one!
> 
> 73 all, Bill N2WL
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - S/N 2917 - FW v2 .19 - DSP 1.3.

2014-09-09 Thread Eric Ross
Yes, I have found this to be the pattern for me as well.  The only
component on my K3 that intermittently fails is the one between my ears.
 I am looking for a warranty replacement, but supplies seem to be
unavailable.

Eric, WB7SDE

On Mon, Sep 8, 2014, at 01:20 PM, Mark,  KE6BB via Elecraft wrote:
> Re:  I don't know how my face can be more RED-DER...
> 
> Most of us have done something similar, Jim.  I thought one of the LCD
> segments on the s-meter had developed a case of "always on disease",
> until Wayne (and a few others) suggested I return the RF gain to 0db. 
> That fixed the radio, but it took a while to return my face to its
> original color!
> 
> Regards
> Mark
> KE6BB
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 receiver troubleshooting

2014-07-17 Thread Eric Ross
The answer was obvious and I was dense. 

Thank you,
Eric, wb7sde

On Thu, Jul 17, 2014, at 10:29 AM, Nr4c wrote:
> How about the XG3?  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
> > On Jul 17, 2014, at 11:43 AM, Eric Ross  wrote:
> > 
> > Just curious.  What does anyone recommend for a signal generator to use
> > for this kind of diagnostic process.  I am looking for something fairly
> > low cost as I hope I won't be doing this very often.
> > 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio: from OK to superior

2014-07-17 Thread Eric Ross
If you are going to spend that much, you might as well get the Proset
K2.  Great listening, comfortable, and constantly great audio reports
from others.

http://www.elecraft.com/MD2/proset.htm

Eric
wb7sde

On Thu, Jul 17, 2014, at 09:09 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:
> If you are OK with open back headphones, the Grado SR-60 ($80) has been
> the best deal in audio for a long time.  You can turn headphones into a
> headset with the ModMic add-on boom mic ($50).
> 
> http://www.modmic.com/
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/
> 
> On Jul 17, 2014, at 8:19 AM, Ignacy  wrote:
> 
> > I use Yamaha CM500 with K3. It is wearing out so I started looking at
> > alternatives. Yesterday I connected Bose OE ($100).  The sound quality
> > changed from OK or a bit harsh to very smooth, like from Chevy to Cadillac. 
> >  
> > A pleasure to listen to.
> > 
> > I thought that headphones are headphones and their main differences are
> > frequencies characteristics, sensitivity + fit. However, with OE the sound
> > quality is greatly improved. Any idea why?
> > 
> > Seems choosing $40 headsets with $3k radio is not be the best idea. 
> > 
> > If only they had a headset
> > 
> > Ignacy, NO9E
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --
> > View this message in context: 
> > http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Audio-from-OK-to-superior-tp7591291.html
> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> > __
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> > 
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> > Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 receiver troubleshooting

2014-07-17 Thread Eric Ross
Just curious.  What does anyone recommend for a signal generator to use
for this kind of diagnostic process.  I am looking for something fairly
low cost as I hope I won't be doing this very often.

Eric
wb7sde

On Thu, Jul 17, 2014, at 02:55 AM, Rick Stealey wrote:
> Guy, thanks for the tip.  I will give it a try.
> A relay in the kxv3 rev 2 failed, an Omron part.  It is now obsolete.
> Elecraft sells a new rev 3 version of the kxv3 for $88 as an upgrade. 
> You trade in your defective module. 
> 
> The failure occurred during the night that we had electrical storms so I
> assumed some solid state part in the rx path had probably gotten zapped.
> But we could inject a weak signal after the kxv3 and hear it, but not
> before it.  Of course that sounds like a simple diagnosis, and it is when
> you are reading the final outcome, but not when your rig is spread out on
> the bench.
> 
> > From: k2av@gmail.com
> > Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 16:06:24 -0400
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 receiver troubleshooting
> > To: rstea...@hotmail.com
> > CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > 
> > On Wed, Jul 16, 2014 at 10:58 AM, Rick Stealey  wrote:
> > > Thanks to all who offered helpful suggestions.  They were all via email - 
> > > you notice there were no helpful postings on the reflector.  Anyway, it's 
> > > working again and I'm a happy camper.
> > 
> > I note you did not post what the actual solution was. You are the only
> > source for that information.
> > 
> > Just a reminder that the Elecraft reflector is not an Elecraft
> > technical support email address. While Elecraft employees may post
> > here from time to time to answer email on the reflector, there is no
> > guarantee that Elecraft employees or Elecraft owners will answer a
> > particular question. For Elecraft help from Elecraft employees one
> > should use supp...@elecraft.com or k3supp...@elecraft.com with issues.
> > These emails are answered during normal business days and hours.
> > 
> > Reflector readers are not under contract to Elecraft to answer posts,
> > nor is there a requirement that someone who does answer a reflector
> > post must do so on the reflector.
> > 
> > Personally, I rarely offer help across this or any other reflector any
> > more, because it is too hard to keep track of helping email threads. I
> > set up a new folder with an intelligent name for a corresponder with
> > filters to put new mail from him/her in that folder. Not putting that
> > help conversation on the reflector also avoids trash talk (both on and
> > off reflector) from a certain kind of reflector user which otherwise
> > is a real and ugly disincentive. I will sometimes convert to telephone
> > conversations if the writing becomes too complex. All that goes on
> > without a clue on a reflector I was there.
> > 
> > I would say that it's up to the person who asked for help to post the
> > eventual solution on the reflector. This makes the answer compact and
> > only relates the answer that actually worked. And it cuts down on
> > noise when someone is later searching archives for a solution.
> > 
> > Clearly those who answered you off-reflector saw the post on the
> > reflector and so it would seem to me that the Elecraft reflector
> > worked well. But email correspondence is no match for a technical
> > buddy with test equipment working right there with you on the physical
> > equipment. :>)
> > 
> > As to the schematics, using the current Adobe Reader to display the
> > schematic PDF's, the search function will find all the occurrences of
> > a wire label very quickly. I have found Elecraft schematics **very
> > easy** to navigate and use with Adobe Reader. I decidedly prefer
> > Elecraft schems to the microscopic lines in the paper schematic of my
> > FT1000MP, and having to pencil trace a wire as it snakes around the
> > page.
> > 
> > To find the KXV3, bring up the June, 2010 version of the K3 schematic
> > PDF with a current Adobe Reader. Hit CTRL-F. This will bring up a blue
> > "find" window at the upper right. Type in kxv3 and hit . You
> > can repeat the search to see every instance of the characters kxv3
> > (case insensitive) anywhere in the PDF.
> > 
> > Huge help in chasing stuff in PDF schematics.
> > 
> > 73, and glad you found the trouble.
> > 
> > Guy K2AV
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] How reliable an internet connection is needed for a K3 remote to work well?

2014-07-16 Thread Eric Ross
Fortunately, this is one group I DON'T have to explain to about
overlapping frequencies.  See the picture--it will make it clear as day.
 There are fundamentally (in the US) only 3 frequencies that correspond
to channels 1,6, and 11.  In Europe, you also get a 4th frequency on
channel 14.

Channels 12-14 are only legal outside the USA.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels


On Wed, Jul 16, 2014, at 02:40 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
> Keep in mind too that WiFi channels overlap quite a bit.  If the problem 
> is WiFi activity on channel 6, you'd have to go to 3 or 9 to be 
> completely clear.
> 
> 73 -- Lynn
> 
> On 7/16/2014 1:51 PM, James Beitchman wrote:
> > What I learned is that
> > most WiFi equipment as-delivered is set for channel 6 as default and most
> > users leave it there. I checked my router in the City and found it was on
> > channel 6.  I changed my router to channel 8 and the dropped packet problem
> > completely disappeared and CW is just fine.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 SVGA - ?future firmware updates for K3/P3/SVGA?

2014-07-10 Thread Eric Ross
I have worked at a technology company for many years and there is always
a tension between coming out with the new and nifty product and
improving the old product.  You have to balance keeping your current
customers satisfied with breaking into new markets and acquiring new
customers.  Yes, us K3 owners can always want more.  But, looking at the
initial K3 and what it has today, the ability to keep getting
replacement parts, and the personal support we get on such an "old"
product, I have to give Elecraft congratulations on how well they do. 
If I had bought a competitor's product when the K3 came out, more than
likely, I would have whatever was delivered.  With the K3, not only were
improvements made over the years, I could upgrade and/or install those
improvements as they came out.  Someday, the K4 will come out and I know
I will have some envy.  But I am still very thrilled with the value that
has been delivered today and I continue to expect some incremental
improvements in the future however slow they are delivered.

Eric
wb7sde

On Thu, Jul 10, 2014, at 12:53 PM, XE3/K5ENS via Elecraft wrote:
> amen
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-P3-SVGA-future-firmware-updates-for-K3-P3-SVGA-tp7591062p7591065.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Extra TMP cable

2014-06-16 Thread Eric Ross
I assume you also have the KAT3.  The sub-rx can either be hooked up to
the KAT3 or the AUX RF(bnc) connector, but not both.  When done, there
is a TMP cable that is connected to the KAT3 or AUX RF and one of the
two is not connected to the sub-rx.  You might have missed the step
where you attached that "extra" cable to its chassis connector.  See
Fig. 4 on page 43 in the owners manual.  Unless you plan to have a
receive-only antenna, the dotted line is normally not attached to your
sub-rx.

Eric
WB7SDE

On Mon, Jun 16, 2014, at 11:11 AM, N1IX wrote:
> I just completed assembling a K3 with the sub-receiver option. 
> 
> I have an extra 12" TMP cable and I can't figure out where it goes. 
> 
> The K3 and sub-rx seem to work correctly.
> 
>  
> 
> Dave N1IX
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] PR6-10 Poser, Cont'd

2014-06-16 Thread Eric Ross
I just hooked mine up this weekend.  I was using Ant2, but I don't see
that being a significant difference.  Initially, I was seeing the same
symptom but it went away. I am thinking that a power cycle might have
enabled something, but I am only guessing.  I was doing some contesting
on 6M(local) this weekend and it worked like a champ.  I also have the
sub, and it was also on Ant2 at the time.

Eric
WB7SDE

On Mon, Jun 16, 2014, at 10:03 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> Thanks Mike, Fred, and others . . .
> 
> I will try the pin 11 mod though I fear that's not the problem, for three
> reasons.  Fred points out that pin 11 would keep the preamp on rather
> than
> off; second, having used a KAT (and a KPA) with the K3 since the KAT
> first
> came out, I've worked through the cabling business and had it all solved
> so far as the KAT is concerned.  And most convincing, one of my attempts
> was done with the K3 a cappella, so to speak -- I disconnected everything
> except the power supply and the antenna and the PR6-10, connecting only
> the unique 15-pin cable that was supplied with the PR6-10-- with the same
> result.
> 
> Fred's book (2d Ed.) shows the block diagram of the PR6 (same as the
> 6-10,
> I assume) and the KVX3, but the examples use a separate antenna in ANT 2
> for the preamped band.  I have but one coax line coming into the shack
> for
> every band -- the antenna switch is remote, out where the antennas are.
> (Reduces the number of holes you have to drill in the house.)  That feed
> line is in the K3 at ANT 1, and ANT 1 is selected.  The plan was to keep
> just one feed line and select  the preamp in for ten meters and out for
> everything else.  
> 
> Am I trying to do something that's not possible?  Nothing I've seen in
> the
> Elecraft papers says anything about not using ANT 1 for everything
> including what the preamp is supposed to be preamping . . .
> 
> Any further ideas?
> 
> Tnx!
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> >Hi Ted,
> >
> >If you are using a KPA500 and a PR6 you will have to remove pin 11 from
> >the
> >cable that goes to the KPA500. It has popped up on this reflector once or
> >twice but it is not mentioned in either the PR6 or the KPA500
> >instructions.
> >If you wonder if this will work just pull the 15 pin cable off of the
> >KPA500
> >and you'll see that the PR6 works as you would expect it to work.
> >
> >73,
> >Mike K2MK
> >
> >
> >Dauer, Edward wrote
> >> I need to ask for help configuring a PR6-10 on the K3.  Installed OK,
> >> removed the internal jumper per instructions and am using the control
> >>line
> >> on a Y splitter to allow the KPA and KAT to connect to the K3 as well.
> >> Physically, all seems fine, and the K3, P3, KPA and KAT work just as
> >>they
> >> always did.
> >> 
> >> Then to operate the pre-amp I configured digout1 to ?on? for 28 Mhz on
> >>the
> >> K3, per instructions.  OK so far.
> >>  
> >> 
> >> The PR6-10 manual says ?Tap RX ANT to enable preamplifier.?  When I do
> >>so
> >> the noise level goes way down and the signals disappear, as if there
> >>were
> >> no antenna connected to the receiver.   Removing the power plug from the
> >> preamp made no difference in either mode ? RX ANT on or off.
> >>  
> >> 
> >> I recall when building the K3 that there were elections to be made about
> >> antenna configurations when installing the sub receiver and/or
> >> the KXV3.  I also remember that there are a myriad of ways the antennas
> >> can be routed via the configuration menus.  I have a feeling that the
> >> elections and internal configurations I originally made in the K3 are
> >>not
> >> compatible with getting the PR6-10 to work simply by pressing RX ANT,
> >>but
> >> I can?t reason my way through it all.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Ted, KN1CBR
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] PX3

2014-06-10 Thread Eric Ross
So  how are they different other than cosmetic attributes?

On Tue, Jun 10, 2014, at 10:57 AM, Dominic Baines wrote:
> Anyone who was at Dayton or anyone lucky enough to have seen one... can 
> you say what do the buttons and the rotary control on the PX3 do? Are 
> they 1:1 with respect to the P3?
> 
> 72
> 
> Dom
> M1KTA
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.

2014-06-06 Thread Eric Ross
I received the boxes on Thursday and started Friday evening.  I was on
the air on Sunday.  As you noticed, I had several of the upgrades
installed.  The basic turn on was done on Saturday.  I probably spent
about 15 hours total but I went real slow to make sure I didn't screw
something up.

Eric
wb7sde

On Fri, Jun 6, 2014, at 05:05 AM, David Cole wrote:
> Hi Eric,
> Nice log of the build, thanks for sharing!
> -- 
> Thanks and 73's,
> For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
> www.nk7z.net
> for MixW support see;
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
> for Dopplergram information see:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
> for MM-SSTV see:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
> 
> 
> On Thu, 2014-06-05 at 21:41 -0700, Eric Ross wrote:
> > I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month.   I 
> > sure enjoyed the build.
> > 
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/
> > 
> > Eric
> > wb7sde
> > 
> > __
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[Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.

2014-06-05 Thread Eric Ross
I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month.   I sure 
enjoyed the build.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/

Eric
wb7sde

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Re: [Elecraft] Weller WTCPT soldering sta....?

2014-06-05 Thread Eric Ross
In the WTCPT If you want to change the temperature you will have to
change the tip.  I have been using the WESD51 which has a knob
adjustable temperature setting.  During the build of my K3 being able to
adjust the temp based on what I was soldering was very handy.  I have
never had a bad experience with a Weller bench soldering station.  I
used to abuse them heavily professionally and they worked great.

Eric
WB7SDE

On Thu, Jun 5, 2014, at 10:16 AM, Nr4c wrote:
> Is this a good gen purpose soldering station?  Good or bad?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Resistance Checks

2014-05-28 Thread Eric Ross
I just did mine last weekend.   It is the scariest and most exciting
moment of the whole build.

On Wed, May 28, 2014, at 01:41 PM, John, 9H5G wrote:
>  It all went we'll thank you! All the smoke is still stored in the radio.
> 
> Thanks for your help!
> 
> 73 de John, 9H5G
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Computers in the Stone Age

2014-05-28 Thread Eric Ross
I believe Fred Flintstone's computer also used quite a bit of silicon
and other minerals.

Eric

On Wed, May 28, 2014, at 10:18 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
> "Computers in the Stone Age":  I wonder what Fred Flintstone's computer 
> looked like?  :=)
> 
>  > The IBM PC, which I bought in 1982 plus or minus a couple of years,
>  > cost me $5,000 in the dollars of the day.
> 
> It's interesting that the latest, greatest, bleeding-edge PC always 
> seems to cost about $4000-$5000.  Then a year later you can buy the same 
> thing for $1000.  And a couple years after that it goes on the scrap 
> heap because it no longer has enough memory / hard disc space / 
> processor speed to run current software.
> 
> Alan N1AL
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Question

2014-05-19 Thread Eric Ross
If you are referring to the span it is 200Khz.

http://www.elecraft.com/P3/p3.htm


On Mon, May 19, 2014, at 06:03 PM, pastor...@verizon.net wrote:
> Good Evening,
> This is Mark Griffin, KB3Z. I was reading about the P3 and was wondering
> what the Maximum Panadapter Bandwidth was. I was reading about the Flex
> 6300 and they say their Max Panadapter Bandwidth is 7 Mhz. How does the
> P3 stack up to that? Thanks!!  Mark KB3Z
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