Re: [Elecraft] kx3 aircraft radio
As a current Canadian Avionics E licenced mechanic with over 30 years experience, including quite a bit of HF, I can tell you that there are many makes and models of HF gear, including Collins, Bendix/King, Sunaire,... that could be directly channelled from the cockpit. All HF gear for a couple of decades now have used antenna autotuners. Its not then a matter of ability but whether its permitted. Given the number of known incidents of cockpit crew falling asleep during long flights, I would think that being able to chat on HF might help at least one of the pilots stay awake. Ron VE8RT On Thu, 2013-03-28 at 06:15 -0700, Bob Baxter wrote: Boy, this is all news to me. As a career airline mechanic, since retired, I'm unaware of any HF radio equipment on board that is capable of operating on the ham bands. The only HF carried on our airplanes was Automatic Direction Finding and that was receive only and emergency only. Some Canadian airliners carried HF due to the distance between stations. But what do I know, I've been retired 25 years. Yes, the OFFICIAL use of radio equipment on board an aircraft for purposes of operating that aircraft requires type acceptance, but last I looked, the Captain of an aircraft (or ship) could authorize use of other radio gear onboard for other purposes. It's a judgement call, and requires that the captain be technically competent and able to assess that the passenger is also. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Finals - Chronic Blow-Outs
When I read this today it reminded me of a problem that I had with my TenTec 6M transverter. Sometime after TenTec ceased production of that kit, they did another run of them. I picked up one from the last production run, and it performed as advertised. Then out of nowhere the finals failed for no understandable reason. After taking a close look at what remained of the factory supplied finals, 2SC1969's, and checking it out on the internet, I now think the kit came with bogus (fake) final transistors. I wouldn't begin to suggest this if you hadn't said that it appears that the finals were replaced before you got the radio. Here is a link I found on the subject: http://www.4hamradio.com/counterfeit-mitsubishi-2sc19692sc2312-transistor-test/ Eventually I did find some, well I think they're close enough to the real thing, they work and they take a lot less drive than the old ones did to get the desired output. I would strongly suggest, if you're not already doing this, that you get replacements from Elecraft and not off of an auction site. Ron VE8RT On Sat, 2012-10-13 at 06:08 -0700, w7asa wrote: Man! You guys are really encouraging-and FAST! The K2 has ONLY the SSB option at this time. I am building the ATU, 160, 60m, and a few more goodies on my bench as we speak. --- I bought this on the internet very recently and have basicaly no information available from the seller. When I ordered the ATU kit from Elecraft, I also ordered two K2PAKIT packs just in case, *figuring that I would never need them* I installed all K2PAKIT components, including Q11 Q13, and the 1.5 Ohm resistor R50. My bench has a grounded ESD mat and wrist strap and I've made a career working to IPC610/620 and mil electronics standards. So, I am really comfortable inside of this radio. The general workmanship on the main board was not very good but I am told that it was functioning for years. After I have it running, I intend to do a lot of flux removal, reflow rework to clean it up. However the SSB unit *is really excellent*: shiney joints, no voids, great fillets... so I knew that it was built by someone else as soon as I saw it. I found paperwork in the maual and the EXCELENT SSB board was made by Don Wilhelm! Great Work Don! Rest assured, I used to do a lot of nit-picky QA rework for DoD and even through my magnifiers, your SSB board is really superb work ! ... small world, eh? (and no, I do not work for Don...) Thanks for the settings and reading info. I will do the current, bias voltage and settings checks as indicated by you guys and thanks for the direction. I am brand new to the K2. My next two replacement parts kits are ETA next week, so I have plenty of time to snoop, measure, poke prod until then, but I'll go straight for the settings - being the low hanging fruit. Thank You I'll keep you posted - 73 de Ray W7ASA ..._ ._ -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Finals-Chronic-Blow-Outs-tp7564052p7564055.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 hand key problem
I was looking to make a contact with my hand key when I ran into an unusual problem. As soon as a I closed the key it locked down in transmit. Thinking that there was a problem with the key, I tried another with a different set of long leads, and had the same result. Then I tried the leads without the key attached, as soon as I touched the leads together it locked down into transmit again. The same keys when connected to the key jack with shorter shielded wire worked OK. Has this problem come up before? Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 hand key problem
I realized that I hadn't mentioned this, and should have, when I posted the message. During trouble isolation I had the power output set to zero, right at the bottom. The band in use was 20M. Shorter shielded cables, probably didn't matter if it was shielded, worked fine. It happened with two different cable sets, one home made, the other with a molded on connector, with leads maybe 8-10 feet of wire like that used for light speaker twin-lead. With the key removed, just touching the bare wire leads together and moving them apart, fingers off the wires, would set it off. Interesting, eh? Ron On Sun, 2012-06-10 at 20:04 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: Ron, Like other similar problems, we have to determine whether you have a hardware problem or an RF feedback problem. The answer to that question is usually determined by asking you to transmit into a dummy load (with no other changes). If you have normal transmit into the dummy load, then you have to solve the RF Feedback situation coming from your antenna(s). OTOH, if the problem persists when transmitting into a dummy load, then you have a hardware problem to be solved, so post again with the updated data. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/10/2012 7:55 PM, R Thompson wrote: I was looking to make a contact with my hand key when I ran into an unusual problem. As soon as a I closed the key it locked down in transmit. Thinking that there was a problem with the key, I tried another with a different set of long leads, and had the same result. Then I tried the leads without the key attached, as soon as I touched the leads together it locked down into transmit again. The same keys when connected to the key jack with shorter shielded wire worked OK. Has this problem come up before? Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] AGC
An operator for 42 years, also into aviation (avionics), a bit of astronomy, and photography, I'd like to add that I also need and often prefer that manual option. Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2012-05-30 at 16:59 -0400, William Levy wrote: I can't speak to AGC version 4.51 but as an op of 50 plus years I find in difficult situations that I like better turning the AGC off and YES there is an OFF button and then riding the RF gain. This I learned before we had radios we could tweak and it still works today with software derived systems. As a photographer, pilot and ham with digital systems, sometimes the old trusty proven ways are still the best. Auto, Automatic, Automatic tuning, focusing, autopilot are simply generalized systems to help those without cosmic understanding of the verities. Beware of AUTO, manual operating and understanding of RF Gain, AGC and filters will often do the trick. Auto is for folks who don't understand manual mode. As I play with new Nikon D800's and D4's I find I don't use Auto, Matrix or Auto focus. In the same vane I don't find much help from AGC or Noise Blankers or their ilk. Manual for those of us who know systems is still the best. Experience counts. Auto will never pull you out of an accident, bad band conditions or a lousy picture. You need to know how to operate a camera, radio and plane. In a plane when things get tough the rule is fly the plane. With a camera put it on manual and find an exposure, with a radio turn off the darn AGC and ride the RF control. When we old timers are gone no one will remember and you will have to learn these truths for yourselves. 73, N2WL Bill __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 -15Mtr birdies?
Thanks Geoff, yours is the second reply I've had letting me know that there are birdies in the K2 receiver. It answers my question as to whether or not I overlooked something in the assembly or if this was a known condition. I say condition and not problem as the level and location of the birdies is unlikely to be a problem. Tomorrow I'm leaving for two weeks, we're heading to VO1 to visit our oldest son. I may re-visit this a little later and do some more research. The loudest one changes in frequency steps much greater than the steps on the dial, it may then be easier to find it's source. If its a relatively easy fix I may look into doing it and will gladly accept your offer of help. Thanks 73 Ron VE8RT On Sat, 2012-05-12 at 20:43 +0200, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote: Ron, You asked if it is normal to hear birdies, the short answer is not always. Most superhet receivers, but certainly not all designs, will be affected by birdies. Unfortunately many if not most of the receivers designed for the amateur market use an open plan layout without shielding nor decoupling filters perhaps for reasons of cost, and that will inevitably result in birdies being heard. Unfortunately the K2 does have a birdie problem. You asked if there was something you could do about the weak birdies you found at 21028.63 kHz and 21036.20 kHz. Again my answer is yes, but I must warn you that getting rid of these and the other birdies found in the K2 is not an easy task, and requires surgery. Some years ago I got rid of the birdies in my K2/100, but it required the addition of some shielding, breaking some DC supply and control traces and inserting L-C filters, moving some bypass ground points, etc etc. Knowing the tuning rate of a birdie vs. the VFO tuning rate is useful information. One type of birdie, and there are different breeds, appears when a spurious response of the receiver (the so-called image is one of many) hears an oscillator, or a harmonic of an oscillator. The tuning rate of this type of birdie will sometimes provide a clue as to which oscillator or mix of oscillators is responsible, and which of the receiver's responses is hearing it. To cite a simple example, if the BFO frequency is 4.914 MHz, there are three possible birdies ganging up at 21.294 MHz, due to the BFO's fundamental, BFO x 3 and BFO x 9 being heard by three different spurious responses. The birdie tuning rates in this case are 1/3, 1 and 3 because the third harmonic of the LO is involved. Please do not hesitate to ask if I can help in any way. 73, Geoff LX2AO On May 11, 2012 at 04:40 +0200, Ron VE8RT wrote: I hadn't noticed this before as I don't normally operate in this part of 15 metres. As I tuned across 15 metres I noticed a couple of birdies, switching between the antenna and dummy load didn't make them go away. They're weak, at the bottom of the S meter, but I don't know if this is normal, or if there is something I could do about them. On CW mode the first is at 21028.63 KHz and the tone changes rapidly, maybe 100Hz or more for every 10Hz change on the tuning. The second one is at around 21036.20 KHz. Is this normal, and is there a fix for it? Maybe there are others on other bands that I'm not yet aware of. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Tuner Options
Hi John, I was looking for a tuner that could be adapted for use at the antenna end. Recently I purchased an LDG Z-11ProII, but I haven't tried it yet. There is information on the LDG website on a modification to install an internal battery pack for remote use. After it arrived I opened it up to see how a battery pack might be installed. At the same time I looked over the front pushbutton PC board and I think that by using opto-isolators it may be possible to run a multi-conductor cable to a remote control panel. It would be nice to have a remote panel and be able to manually tune it while on receive. It will be a while before I attempt this, maybe after the warranty has expired :-) Ron VE8RT On Mon, 2012-02-20 at 11:04 +, John Chance-Read wrote: I have the K2 ATU fitted. At the time I suffered from a lot of unwanted output signal. As a result the ATU jitters about before findin the tune spot. I bought an Orion and its ATU which had similar problems as above. I moved the shack so that the end of the dipole points directly to it. I also had a MFJ 929C it was a bit of a pain to tune but it did work. I now have a MFJ 933B and I think it is a great. The 933B tunes all freq on my 70 degree 80m Off Centre dipole using a 9:1 balun (except 160m of course). The balun present a broad 3:1 vswr from 80 - 10m with most Ham bands down to 1.5 : 1.It remembers previous tuning but does need the odd operation of the Tune button occaisonally to improve down to 1 : 1.It doesn't like slow CW at the higher power level (300w) though. I would recommend it against the alternatives Auto ATU at that price level. John G4BOU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 remote antenna tuner question
The feedback here has been a great help. And input from the list members who also operate with similar winter conditions to ours is very helpful. Before I spend any money on something new I must ask. Does Elecraft have anything on the drawing board that will work with non-Elecraft radios and that could be installed remotely? I would have considered using the KAT-100 if it could have been used with my non-Elecraft radios, some of which exceed the power limits of the T-1 Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2012-02-08 at 22:21 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: The Elecraft T-1 tuner if you need an external tuner that will work with many transceivers. If you willl only be using it with the K2/10, I highly recommend the Elecraft KAT2. It will remember the settings for 2 antennas per band and works seamlessly with the K2. If your need is for a remote tuner that can be located at the antenna feedpoint, then the LDG or other similar tuners are the best choice. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/8/2012 10:02 PM, R Thompson wrote: I'm shopping for a remote antenna tuner that will work well with my K2/10. At the moment I'm favouring the LDG Z11ProII and building a weather proof container to put it in. The LDG draws little current and may be battery powered. SGC make outdoor tuners and they have a wide temperature operating range, down to -35C. However they need external power. Customer service is important to me, as is reliability. Recommendations? Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 remote antenna tuner question
I'm shopping for a remote antenna tuner that will work well with my K2/10. At the moment I'm favouring the LDG Z11ProII and building a weather proof container to put it in. The LDG draws little current and may be battery powered. SGC make outdoor tuners and they have a wide temperature operating range, down to -35C. However they need external power. Customer service is important to me, as is reliability. Recommendations? Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 remote antenna tuner question
Thanks Mike, the low temperature operation, if its mounted outside, would be a problem. We've had an exceptionally mild winter here, but mild for us is still below zero F during the day and quite a bit cooler at night (when I'd be home to operate). Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2012-02-08 at 22:32 -0500, Mike WA8BXN wrote: Hi Ron, I have a couple of those LDG tuners and like them. I have no experience with the SGC tuners. I did have a problem with the LDG tuner in single digit F temps, but the winter has been mild here and that was only one night. I think I could easily run an extension cord out to where the tuner enclosure is (a plastic mailbox) and put a 100 watt light bulb in it to turn on when it gets cold. With a little extra work you can run power to the LDG tuner via the coax. Probably the same could be done with the SGC tuner. 73 - Mike WA8BXN ---Original Message--- From: R Thompson Date: 2/8/2012 10:10:57 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2 remote antenna tuner question I'm shopping for a remote antenna tuner that will work well with my K2/10. At the moment I'm favouring the LDG Z11ProII and building a Weather proof container to put it in. The LDG draws little current and May be battery powered. SGC make outdoor tuners and they have a wide Temperature operating range, down to -35C. However they need external Power. Customer service is important to me, as is reliability. Recommendations? Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Thanks ...
Thanks for bringing that up Steve, they all, including the support people, have done an exceptional job considering the hundreds of components involved in these complex kits. Ron VE8RT On Fri, 2011-11-25 at 17:47 -0500, Steve Jackson wrote: I was cleaning up the shop and noticed a small pile of little paper slips I'd saved ... they all say: This subassembly packed by ... You might have a few of these yourself, if you're reading this message. So, at this time of year, I'd like to say thanks to: Alan, Rachel, Dina, Marina, Pennie, Leony, and Susan ... and the many other Elecraft people who've helped make my hobby a lot more fun, but whose names I don't have on little slips of paper. 73 Steve KZ1X/4 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
Rapid cooling of the screw may also help. You don't need to go out and buy some freeze spray if you have a can of dry air aerosol dust remover. Turn the can upside down, using an extender tip that often comes with contact cleaner or aerosol lubricants, and try to limit the spray to the screw. Turned upside down the can releases the liquid propellent which is about as good as freeze spray. Ron VE8RT On Sun, 2011-11-13 at 21:15 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: I would like to add 2 things. First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out. I replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 months. Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out the screwhead. When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain tools will cause you headaches in the long run. Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not expand at the same rate. A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in will allow the screw to be removed. That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the past 50 years. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
While I'm at it, here are a couple of tricks used by aviation mechanics. Using a good screwdriver tip, dip it spark plug cleaner abrasive, then try it on the screwhead. OK, so you don't keep a stock of spark plug cleaner abrasive, another trick is to use a very small amount of crazy glue on the screwdriver tip and cement the tip to the screw. One that works for me with small screws, but it has a higher risk of damaging something if it slips off. And wear eye protection, most of the times my flush cutters failed they sent the broken blade flying as a projectile. I put one blade of the flush cutter in the centre of the screw and grip the outside edge of the screw with the other blade and getting started backing out. Another risky approach, again eye protection is recommended, if you have a small enough chisel, then with light taps from a light ball peen hammer drive the chisel into one edge of the screw counter clockwise enough to loosen it. Lastly, and only if you have good eyes, an excellent sense of having the drill bit square to the screw, and a steady hand, you could drill out the centre of the screw and remove the remains. In cases where the screw bottomed out onto something solid and nothing else worked, this usually does. There is very very high risk of drilling off square though and damaging the original threads. Ron VE8RT On Sun, 2011-11-13 at 21:15 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: I would like to add 2 things. First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out. I replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 months. Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out the screwhead. When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain tools will cause you headaches in the long run. Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not expand at the same rate. A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in will allow the screw to be removed. That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the past 50 years. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 fldigi with USB adapter problem
I've been experimenting with fldigi on my K2. When I plug the KIO2 interface RS232 directly into the RS232 of my desktop (running Ubuntu) RigCAT works somewhat (filter reading and selection from fldigi seems to have a couple of bugs), and Hamlib does not work. Its useable this way. If I use an A-Ten, model UC-232A, RS232 to USB adaptor with the desktop, or the two laptops I've tried so far, it doesn't work. It occasionally indicates the correct frequency and mode but usually indicates useless numbers. Is this a problem with the UC-232A convertor? Will using the Elecraft model fix this problem? On an aside, is anyone else working with an Asus EEEpc, a 701SD in my case, with Puppy Linux and fldigi? Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim
Speaking from a 30+ year background in avionics repair, its finished, period! Wash and dry it if you'd like, and it may even work or appear to work, but you cannot clean out components like potentiometers, unsealed inductors/transformers, variable capacitors, and switches, etc.. If I bought something like that, working or not, from someone who didn't tell me upfront about it's history I'd be pretty upset when I found the evidence of what had happened. Take the insurance if there is any, to bring it back to the manufacturer's specifications will be way too costly and not practical. Being a homebuilder I wouldn't dispatch it to the dump either, the sealed components would be useable as spares or parts for other projects. Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2011-09-14 at 21:20 -0400, patrick taylor wrote: I live in Bloomsburg, Pa and we just experienced a record flood on the Susquehanna River. The sewer backed up to a level of about 4 feet in our basement while we were under a mandatory evacuaton. The K3 and P3 were under about 18 inches of muddy water. Has anyone ever experienced this and found a way to clean and repair the equipment or should it be dispatched to the dump. It was a very bad day! 73s Pat W3HVG __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim
It works fine would be a matter of opinion, not the result of bench testing. So, I wonder how the grease in the VFO handled the grease cutters of the dishwasher soap? What did it do to the fine lubricants in the switches, and potentiometers, or the finish on the rotary switches? We use shock indicators on sensitive aircraft instruments to tell if they've had rough handling, and some equipment is packed with moisture indicator cards. Cell phones used to have a moisture indicator built into them, if it indicated that the cell phone had been overly exposed to moisture then your warranty was void. If you're satisfied with compromised gear, and its not going into a critical application then have at it. Hearing these stories gives me the creeps, I'm not coming back to this thread. Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2011-09-14 at 22:40 -0500, Dave, W8OV wrote: KH6/W3GW tried this with another rig, after removing the speaker: The Corsair arrived last year from E-bay. I opened the box and thought I had bought a bag of cigarette butts. The price was dirt cheap so I put it in the dishwasher and put it through a few cycles except I did not let the dishwasher dry it. For that, I put it out in the Maui sun for a week bringing it in at night. No more cigarette smoke smell. It works fine though I did have to touch up some of the frequency adjustments. (From an e-mail on another list.) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 noise blanker question
Is there a simple way to check if the noise blanker for the K2 works? I tried to use it tonight but it didn't seem to make any difference. Then I tried turning a switch on a fan on and off, that produced S7 noise spikes on the S meter, but the noise blanker didn't seem to make a difference. Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 s/n 7176 QRV
Thanks! I had to wait for the KSB2 kit so I built the basic K2 first. In my case I was thinking of keeping it as a battery portable, and using an external antenna tuner if needed, but I'm of two minds on where to go from here. There were a couple of things that I had problems with, one of the more annoying was the micro thin adhesive tape used to secure the green filter to faceplate. The adhesive tended to stay stuck to the backing tape and when it did come loose it tried to curl up on itself. If I did it over again I might consider using a very small dab of some other adhesive. Again the small black pads that get stuck to the rear top corners of the front panel board, the adhesive tended to stay stuck to the paper backing. Before installing these I'd recommend taking some cotton tipped swabs and cleaning the area they're to be applied to with isopropyl alcohol or no-residue contact cleaner first, or they might not stick in place. Its not in the manual, and others may have a comment on this, but I wish that I had done it. On page 60, the installation of L33 using R116, if I could easily do it over again I would take a few millimetres of insulation off of the green wire to cover only the parts of the leads of R116 that come in contact with the top of L33. I'm uncomfortable with the bare leads of R116 pressing into the very thin insulation of the windings on L33. Some other things I did I won't promote here, especially after being told not to do it :-) The stack of insulators used on the PA amplifier transistors, when I took the heatsink off to install the 160M option I took the stack and used a bit of conformal coating on the loose insulators to stick them together. The idea was to keep the three insulating pieces (per transistor) together as a stack rather than having them fall apart when the heat sink is removed to install another option, such as the transverter kit which I'm considering doing later. Also, I found that at the stage where the IF alignment is done, on page 67, that I got a more distinct peak when tuning L34 if the frequency counter probe was not left plugged in, I don't remember if I'd left it plugged in to TP1 or TP2 when I noticed this. When it comes to mounting resistors on the backside of the board and it isn't practical or possible to trim the leads after installation, I had a simple solution. For most resistors the lead lengths will be identical (there are a few that need longer leads and this won't work there). In a place where a backside mounted resistor can be trimmed later, install it with full lead length and trim them off after soldering. Take the cut off lead as a cutting guide for those resistors that need to be pre-cut before installation. I'm pretty happy with how mine turned out, but I took a lot more time than the average builder and almost all of the board work was done using a headband style of magnifier. My normal reading glasses just weren't up to the task. Another very practical tool I picked up recently was a pair of high quality tweezers with cushion grip handles. When wearing the magnifier these tweezers easily grip onto the extremely fine hair that my long hair white cat sheds, and they're great for picking up or placing parts too :-) Lastly, another lesson learned, post any questions here if you have any problems or doubts. The response time is quick and its much easier than waiting for replacement parts in the mail :-) Ron VE8RT On Mon, 2011-08-01 at 21:48 -0700, David Dietrich wrote: COOL!! If this were Facebook, I'd like this status update. I have K2 s/n 7164 (10 W), that is under construction. All option boards are finished, and I am starting the control board tomorrow. The KAT2 L-C board was tough as the relays had to be installed first, and then the stuff on the other side. 73, David KC9EHQ __ From: R Thompson ve...@xplornet.com To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 6:48 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 s/n 7176 QRV Having just sorted out the KSB2 board, I made my first QSO with K2 s/n 7176. On a noisy 40M band I was able to check in the the afternoon Aurora Net, and received a nice signal report from VA7XX with the power set at 10W. Antenna is a Butternut HF6-V. CW should be fun! Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please
Re: [Elecraft] K2 s/n 7176 QRV
On Tue, 2011-08-02 at 09:54 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: Ron, The last step in the left column of page 61 directs you to put tape on the bottom cover at the L33 location so the resistor leads do not contact the cover. If you did that, your suggestion for covering the bare leads of R116 is not necessary. If you omitted that step, get out your electrical tape. That was done, although there was adequate clearance between the lowest point of the assembly and the cover. What makes me uncomfortable is having the bare resistor wire in contact with the fine enamel coated coil wires. Its my experience with avionics that makes me very sensitive to the possibility of vibration related damage. On removing the heatsink - that can be done without losing the PA mounting hardware if the K2 is placed on its side so gravity does not pull the screws out. My favorite technique is to place a square of electrical tape over the screwheads sticking to the top of the board and T4. Then the screws do not fall out. Yes, you have to push the screws back a bit to remove the heatsink, and if I am going to leave the heatsink off for an extended time, I will put the nuts on the screws finger-tight. Conformal coating and other solutions can get messy if the PA transistors ever have to be replaced. The tape idea is a good one. The conformal coating was applied wet to the insulator stack prior to hold it together, and allowed to get tacky dry. No conformal was applied to the surfaces of the shoulder washer that come in contact with the transistor, as you said it could be a problem removing it from the transistor without damaging it. Its not something I'd expect others to do as gluing things together could be a headache at some point. If I were to build another one for mobile, backpacking, or other rough use, there are a few things that I'd do differently but wouldn't recommend that others do. Thanks Don, and others on this list for the help during assembly and making it an enjoyable project overall. Ron VE8RT On 8/2/2011 6:57 AM, R Thompson wrote: Its not in the manual, and others may have a comment on this, but I wish that I had done it. On page 60, the installation of L33 using R116, if I could easily do it over again I would take a few millimetres of insulation off of the green wire to cover only the parts of the leads of R116 that come in contact with the top of L33. I'm uncomfortable with the bare leads of R116 pressing into the very thin insulation of the windings on L33. Some other things I did I won't promote here, especially after being told not to do it :-) The stack of insulators used on the PA amplifier transistors, when I took the heatsink off to install the 160M option I took the stack and used a bit of conformal coating on the loose insulators to stick them together. The idea was to keep the three insulating pieces (per transistor) together as a stack rather than having them fall apart when the heat sink is removed to install another option, such as the transverter kit which I'm considering doing later. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2s
On Tue, 2011-08-02 at 09:34 -0600, Gary D Krause wrote: I've notice that lately, on this reflector, there seems to be a lot of K2s and K2 modules being built. I wonder why? I built my K2 6113 about four years ago and since then I have added SSB, DSP, KAT2, 160m and the KPA100. I've thought about buying a K3 but, every time I talk myself out of it and add something else to my K2. Has anyone else experienced this? In my case the choice to buy the K2 was simple. The K2 is a battery friendly, high performance, customizable, radio that is more compact than the K3. Because I built it myself I'd feel more comfortable troubleshooting and repairing it. Although the kit is complex, most of the parts are commonly available, relatively easily replaced, and the assembly manual is exceptionally good. There is component level support online, and if you live outside of the continental US you have much better chances of repairing it or installing modifications/upgrades yourself without the expense of shipping it across borders to have it cued up in the repair shop behind other units in for repair. There are other reasons to buy it, such as the challenge of building an exceptional kit, and so forth. Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] problem with new KSB2 adapter
I think that there is information missing on the assemble and operating instructions manual that came with my KSB2 adapter. After completing the assembly, installing, and aligning it as per the manual, it doesn't transmit on SSB. The differences between the manual and board are related to U3, with was changed from a through hole SSM 2165 to a SMT SSM2166. When finished, as per the manual, several component locations were not filled in, and there were parts left over that were not listed on the parts list or mentioned in the assembly instructions. Blank spots on the board include R20 through R24, C50, and C51. There is microphone audio up to the input pin (7), but nothing out of the buffer output pin (5). I suspect, seeing as I have spare parts left over and apparently places to install them, that I'm missing information. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find more information on the website. Anyone have the information I'm missing? Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] problem with new KSB2 adapter
Thanks to Wayne N6KR, after receiving a .pdf copy of the manual the SSB board is now working FB. K2 s/n 7176 is now complete (until I add another option or two) and ready for it's first QSO. Ron VE8RT On Mon, 2011-08-01 at 16:18 -0600, R Thompson wrote: I think that there is information missing on the assemble and operating instructions manual that came with my KSB2 adapter. After completing the assembly, installing, and aligning it as per the manual, it doesn't transmit on SSB. The differences between the manual and board are related to U3, with was changed from a through hole SSM 2165 to a SMT SSM2166. When finished, as per the manual, several component locations were not filled in, and there were parts left over that were not listed on the parts list or mentioned in the assembly instructions. Blank spots on the board include R20 through R24, C50, and C51. There is microphone audio up to the input pin (7), but nothing out of the buffer output pin (5). I suspect, seeing as I have spare parts left over and apparently places to install them, that I'm missing information. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find more information on the website. Anyone have the information I'm missing? Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 s/n 7176 QRV
Having just sorted out the KSB2 board, I made my first QSO with K2 s/n 7176. On a noisy 40M band I was able to check in the the afternoon Aurora Net, and received a nice signal report from VA7XX with the power set at 10W. Antenna is a Butternut HF6-V. CW should be fun! Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KC9EHQ New KSB2 revision issues
I'm just finishing my KSB2 board, and I did encounter this problem at only one hole, the cathode for D1. Otherwise it all went together as per the instruction, and a bonus, somehow I ended up with a few unexpected spare parts, such as a 2N3906, two extra 2.2mfd caps, and a couple of resistors. Ron VE8RT On Sun, 2011-07-24 at 21:55 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: David, I will reply anyway, because a situation like that is of extreme interest to me. That is a a real mystery. I did the pilot build on the new KSB2 board and encountered no problems with those diodes. Something may have changed since I did that build, and the only two things I can think of are that the 1N4007 leads got thicker or the holes got smaller at the board manufacturing house. The board I worked with was *not* pre-production since Wayne was quite anxious to get this new board into production, he took the risk of cutting the new board in before I received my field test kit. The normal holes for the 1N4007 diodes are the same size as for resistors and other components even though the 1N4007 leads are larger, they will fit in most any hole designed for resistors - that is true for all the K2 boards that I know about. Do you have other unassembled options for the K2? If so, try the 1N4007 leads in a hole intended for a resistor on any of your other boards. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/24/2011 9:02 PM, David Dietrich wrote: Hi All! I already E-mailed Wayne about this, but I thought I would share this with the rest of the group in case anyone got one of these recently and hasn't assembled it yet. I bought the KSB2 with my K2...Unfortunately, when I bought the radio and options, the KSB2 was out of stock. It took a few weeks to get this option because some components were no longer available, and Wayne and the Elecraft team had to perform some redesign work. I got one of the new boards, and the assembly was going by swimmingly this afternoon until I hit a snag...ALL if the 1N4007 diodes will NOT fit into their holes because the leads are too thick. This is more than a tight fit...They just plain don't want to go in at all. I am not going to attempt to widen the holes on my own as there isn't much real estate to work around, and I don't want to damage traces. Just an FYI, and no need for replies. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options
Thanks for all the replies, that settles it for me, as I haven't enjoyed my own experiences with DSP, I'll order the KAF2. And I'll consider the anti-ringing modification. Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 03:32 -0700, Bill W4ZV wrote: R Thompson wrote: I would like to hear from someone who has the filter, what their impressions are. I'm not overly impressed with the DSP as I've experienced it on my IC-703, but it can make a difference even if it no longer sounds natural. So I'm leaning towards getting the filter. I have the KAF2 but to be honest I seldom use it. For some reason I've never found audio filters to be of much help. My experience goes back to the Autek QF-1A, SCAT filters, many different outboard DSP filters, etc. I'm sure they work well for others but I've never found them to work for my ears which seem to prefer wider audio (~350 Hz) before reaching my ear/brain's DSP stage. One exception is the K3's APF which is occasionally helpful under certain conditions. Here's some more information on the KAF2 which might help you decide. I used KI6WX's standard AF1 and low-ringing AF2 values in my unit: http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/kaf2_filter_modifications.pdf 73, Bill -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-question-on-options-tp6577413p6578509.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 QQuestion on Options
Thanks, but I'm not a fan of digital modes. I tried them once, and tried to have a QSO with someone. He came back and told me that he didn't QSO, and only sent the info that was pre-programmed in to the function keys. Other attempts resulted in similar responses. So I nick-named digital operation a push-button mode, and decided that it wasn't for me. It could be useful as an emergency communications tool, and in that case I'd switch off audio filters and let the computer do its own signal processing. But the information on the phase shifting in the audio filter is something I hadn't thought about. Still, the computer should be able to do well without the audio filter in the radio I'd think. I'm pretty much settled now on the KAF2 for non push-button modes. Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 08:28 -0400, sheajo...@aol.com wrote: I have been a K2/100 operator for about ten years mostly on RTTY and CW utilizing the DSP filter as needed.. 1. The SSB capability is needed by the K2 for digital operation. Digital mode operation is exciting because it can get out at 100 W or less power almost as effectively as CW verses SSB operation where it can be considerably more difficult to make contacts using simple low antennas and less that 100 W power. 2. The DSP provides the K2 AFilter feature which is useful for digital modes because it does not cause the slight frequency shift when engaged as does engaging XFilter. The slight XFilter induced frequency shift may not be an issue for good CW operators who only need the computer for logging.. 3. For those having weak CW skills, engaging the DSP improves CW signal SNR enough to enable the assistance of reasonably effective computer decoding (Mixw) of strong and moderate strength machine generated CW such as contest QSOs. Without the assistance of the DSP, the K2's machine decoding of even strong CW signals can be ineffective. The DSP is not effective enough to allow useful machine decoding of very weak CW signals and hand keyed CW signals. 73 de KB1IKD __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 QQuestion on Options
During Field Day in 2010 I was part of a FD station set up in Hay River (on the south side of Great Slave Lake). We were using Field Day to promote amateur radio to the public. Anyway, both the station in Hay River and bigger club set up back in Yellowknife were aiming to copy the ARRL FD bulletin for the extra points. Both stations tried to copy it in RTTY and the digital modes, but failed. It wasn't a matter of signal strength or QRM, the signal was distorted (we're pretty sure it was auroral distortion). We finally did copy it in Hay River, on CW. I don't know if there are digital modes that would work with auroral modulation on the signal. CW works when copied by ear and not on a computer. Eventually I would like to get up to speed with some of the digital modes. We've been looking at getting trained and equipped to do some ARES work, but we don't know what we can do with so few amateurs scattered over this large territory. If there are modes robust enough to work through auroral flutter I'm interested. The response to my question has been beyond my expectations, and the comments are all helpful. Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 08:48 -0500, Tony Estep wrote: On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 8:20 AM, R Thompson ve...@xplornet.com wrote: I'm not a fan of digital modes...he only sent the info that was pre-programmed in to the function keys. === You mean you didn't get into ham radio so you could find out some guy's CPU clock speed and the brand of his coax? But digital does have its uses. Sometimes you can only get 'em on RTTY, or even PSK -- I just got a LOTW qsl from PP0T. In the month he was there, I heard him only once, and it was on PSK. Tony KT0NY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question on Options
The comments on being able to rag chew in digital modes have been great. My first few experiences weren't encouraging and I was perhaps too quick to form an opinion. After I get the K2 up and running on CW, and then SSB, I'll revisit digital modes of operation and maybe be a little more patient. Thanks to all who replied! Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 10:04 -0400, John Ragle wrote: Hello, Ron... In past years I used my K2, my Flex 3000 (both sold, now) and my K3 on one or another of the digital modes, e.g. CW and PSK31 for the most part, but PSKxx (xx31), Olivia, etc. as well. I would like to speak in defense of these modes and in support of Elecraft's ability to run them perfectly. It seems to me that these modes are absolutely ideal for chatting...sometimes my QSOs on PSK31 or PSK63 have lasted over an hour. To be sure, there is routine information that is usually exchanged during the initial part of a QSO (RSQ, name, QTH, etc), some of which can be programmed into the macro keys that programs have available, but the relaxed character of a contact makes it possible to have a real conversation while drinking tea or eating soup, etc. There are always a few people who seem to be counting coup (I call them hello-goodbye QSOs), but you will find that behavior in any mode. Have you considered the possibility that your call sign (VE8RQ) might intimidate people into having short QSOs? While not extraordinary DX, it is a sufficiently rare prefix that some might want to make room for the next fellow. I think that digital modes deserve another try... John Ragle --W1ZI = On 7/13/2011 9:20 AM, R Thompson wrote: Thanks, but I'm not a fan of digital modes. I tried them once, and tried to have a QSO with someone. He came back and told me that he didn't QSO, and only sent the info that was pre-programmed in to the function keys. Other attempts resulted in similar responses. So I nick-named digital operation a push-button mode, and decided that it wasn't for me. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 QQuestion on Options
I'll try to keep those modes of operation in mind. And finding a net or website for those modes of operation would help in making skeds. Modes that will handle some distortion are worth looking into. Thanks again. It might actually be fun. Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 20:28 -0500, Tony Estep wrote: On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 7:59 PM, R Thompson ve...@xplornet.com wrote: I don't know if there are digital modes that would work with auroral modulation on the signal. === JT65 and its variants (FSK441, WSJT9 etc) are made for distorted paths, including meteor scatter and moonbounce. Tony KT0NY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 question on options
My K2 is near completion, minus the options, which haven't been ordered yet. There is one or two where a decision must be made, and I'd very much appreciate some help with them. The big one would be whether to add on the traditional audio filter or the DSP instead. I'd like to keep current draw down for battery operation, and I'm not sure if I like the sound of heavily DSP filtered audio (as it sounds on my IC-703). The bigger noise issues I have seem to be AC power line buzz, and ignition noise if I use it mobile. Hopefully the noise blanker option will handle the latter. Is DPS worth the extra money and load on a battery? Other options I'm looking to add are the noise blanker, the SSB board, and likely the transverter and 160 metre options. Any recommendations? Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options
Thanks Robert, that was very helpful. I wouldn't consider myself a CW op, but it is my preferred mode. My CW is distinguished by 'tick' like random moments when I can't even send my own call sign right. I would like to hear from someone who has the filter, what their impressions are. I'm not overly impressed with the DSP as I've experienced it on my IC-703, but it can make a difference even if it no longer sounds natural. So I'm leaning towards getting the filter. The K3 was too much radio for me, the station here now is a 50W analog TT Argosy running off of SLA batteries and solar charged. With respect to the amplifier, I thought about waiting to see what the external 100W amplifier being designed for the KX3 will be like. It would be nice to have the K2 as a battery portable, and an external power amplifier when needed. SSB is a must have, for checking into nets. It can be done in CW, but SSB is more convenient especially if the net control doesn't copy CW, or when you need a relay and the relay station cannot copy CW. I was thinking of the 160M option, but more for the 2nd (receiver) antenna input than actually using it on 160. If I add it, it will be later. And I'd like the transverter mod. But at the same time I don't want to have rarely used options drawing current from my batteries. Other reasons for buying the K2 over any other radio are, its battery friendly with both reasonable current draw and lower voltage operation. It is also a reasonable size to travel with, and I'm considering it for possible mobile operation (with an external power amplifier). Wish I could play a guitar, or something, I don't seem to have that kind of talent :-( Ron VE8RT On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 03:51 +, Robert G. Strickland wrote: Ron... The K2 here has all possible options: 160m, nb, ssb, dsp and amp. Obviously, there's little reduntancy in this list. So, how useful is each mod? I have no antenna capability on 160m, so aside from some listening, of little use. Depends on how serious you are about 160m. The NB at times does wonders in a quiet, urban setting, yet doesn't stop all noise. A good buy. I'm virtually all CW here, using ssb when it's the only option for rare DX. The SSB module does well enough without any bells and whistles. If you lean towards SSB, then necessary; elsewise, a sub-hobby. The DSP is quite versitile with lots of adjustments. The implementation of the DSP technique is beyond my evaluation; there may be much better out there, or maybe not. That said, I can taylor its action in ways that I find regularly useful, again on cw. I've listened to SSB using the DSP, and I find it of no help for me and noteably worse, again from my own subjective experience. I have not tried the passive filter that is available. I read that those who have them generally consider them to be useful. The few A-B comparisons between the AF and DSP units that have appeared tend to favor the DSP rather than reject the filter. Your ear may sound different. I like the amp. I drive a 500w amp in contests and sometimes for DX, so the amp is required for drive. By itself, at any spot from 10w to 100w, it's a nifty performer. If you see yourself as being a K2, QRP'er, then the amp is obviously not necessary. Otherwise, nice/required. The K3 is not that much further out of financial reach, and that should be considered. On the other hand, building/assembling a K2 and its mods tends to give one a lifetime of inner ham radio satisfaction, as you probably know. That's good therapy all by itself. So, that's my take on it, from a very small pistol, who is happy to break into the top 25, occasionally, when not playing guitar. Have a good day. 73 to all ...robert On 7/13/2011 01:21, R Thompson wrote: My K2 is near completion, minus the options, which haven't been ordered yet. There is one or two where a decision must be made, and I'd very much appreciate some help with them. The big one would be whether to add on the traditional audio filter or the DSP instead. I'd like to keep current draw down for battery operation, and I'm not sure if I like the sound of heavily DSP filtered audio (as it sounds on my IC-703). The bigger noise issues I have seem to be AC power line buzz, and ignition noise if I use it mobile. Hopefully the noise blanker option will handle the latter. Is DPS worth the extra money and load on a battery? Other options I'm looking to add are the noise blanker, the SSB board, and likely the transverter and 160 metre options. Any recommendations? Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support
Re: [Elecraft] K2 alignment part 2 question
Hi Don, I took it in to work today, to use some of the test gear during my lunch hour. U5 pin 3 (LD/CS) looks good. There is a steady high on this pin (measurements made on the IC pins, not on the board, to rule out soldering problems at the board) with good well shaped pulses pulling it low. Pulses on pin 2, DIN, appear to be OK. VOUT on pin 7 makes sharp transitions between the high and low states. Unfortunately I was working with only one scope probe, I really wanted to see if there was a second DAC2CS pulse on pin 3 that coincided with the undesired toggle back to the high state (on VOUT), but failed to catch it. My lunch time is too short, I used some of it to go over the Part II alignment using the calibrated shop gear. At the moment, it appears to me that it may be software or digital problem. The software level on my PIC is 2.04R. Any thoughts? Everything else in the part II alignment went well, no problems, error codes, or other discrepancies of any kind, thankfully. Ron VE8RT On Fri, 2011-07-08 at 08:13 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: Ron, Yes, the frequency should not revert to the high reading - it should stay. Check the soldering at RF Board U5 carefully for solder bridges and also J8 pins 15 and 16. Then on the control board check U6 pins 19 and 20 as well as J8 pins 15 and 16. Make certain all those points are well soldered. If there is excess solder, wick it away and re-flow the solder with a hot soldering iron (750 degF or higher) What I suspect is happening is that the DAC2CS digital signal is going low at times it should not because it is shorted to another digital line. If you find nothing in those areas, ask again and I will give you some other checks that you can do in the analog realm. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/8/2011 12:39 AM, R Thompson wrote: I'm doing the alignment at the end of part 2 of the assembly. So far all seems to be well. There is a quirky little thing that I wanted to ask about. From page 63, PLL Reference Oscillator Range Test, step 3. When you're in frequency counter mode, the BAND+ and BAND- switches can be used to check the range of the PLL reference oscillator. First, tap BAND+ and write down the frequency reading below (typically about 12100 KHz). Then tap BAND- and write down this frequency reading (typically 12080-12090 KHz). The range is fine, 13.25 KHz, but I noticed that when I tapped the BAND- switch that the Ref. Low Freq. was only displayed for a short time, from a fraction of a second to a couple of seconds, and then the screen went back to the Ref. High Freq.. I was expecting the Ref. Low Freq. to stay displayed until BAND+ was tapped again, as it does for the BFO Test on page 65. Is this normal behaviour for this test? If not, is it anything to be concerned about? Thanks, Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 alignment part 2 question
I'm doing the alignment at the end of part 2 of the assembly. So far all seems to be well. There is a quirky little thing that I wanted to ask about. From page 63, PLL Reference Oscillator Range Test, step 3. When you're in frequency counter mode, the BAND+ and BAND- switches can be used to check the range of the PLL reference oscillator. First, tap BAND+ and write down the frequency reading below (typically about 12100 KHz). Then tap BAND- and write down this frequency reading (typically 12080-12090 KHz). The range is fine, 13.25 KHz, but I noticed that when I tapped the BAND- switch that the Ref. Low Freq. was only displayed for a short time, from a fraction of a second to a couple of seconds, and then the screen went back to the Ref. High Freq.. I was expecting the Ref. Low Freq. to stay displayed until BAND+ was tapped again, as it does for the BFO Test on page 65. Is this normal behaviour for this test? If not, is it anything to be concerned about? Thanks, Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] securing toroids in K2, why not?
I just installed the first toroid, RFC14, in my K2 kit. After winding it, I sprayed it with conformal coating, and just before installing it I put a small dab of RTV3145 (non-corrosive) silicone seal on the end next to the PC board and then soldered it in place. So I turn the page in the manual and the very next thing in bold is Do not use adhesives or fixatives of any king to secure toroids to the PC board. Would this also apply to conformal coating? Should I remove RFC14 and take the RTV off it? Thanks, Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] securing toroids in K2, why not?
Thanks Don, good point on the LCR meter, it measures values at 1KHz. The remaining coils are being installed as per the manual. I service avionics for living, the better gear has conformal coated boards. The coating is very thin, applied as an aerosol, and hasn't been a problem for repairs, a soldering iron will melt through it no problem. Older coatings, which were applied very thick, were a headache. Its hard not to want to use it, I've had my gear end up in puddle at Field Day after a gust of wind blew over the tent, tables, and all. First things first, I'll finish it as per the manual. The help here has been wonderful, and fast! Thanks everyone, and enjoy your long weekend! Ron VE8RT On Sat, 2011-07-02 at 22:14 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: Ron, Forget the LCR meter with the K2 kit - other than to evaluate the effects of various fixatives for toroids. Wind the toroids with the number of turns specified and all will be OK. As far as conformal coating, again, it makes repair or rework a pain - but if you insist ... What I can say is that I have worked on many K2s (over 600 to date), and some have been subjected to extreme environmental conditions (salt spray, high humidity, etc.), and on all of those, even though the exterior of the K2 shows signs of corrosion from that environment, all those I have seen look pristine on the surfaces of the boards. Based on that, I would discourage using any conformal coating, it is just not necessary unless you intend to dip your boards in salt water. I have no idea what problems may occur if you would use a conformal coating, other than that the coating must be worked through if any repairs or upgrades are needed in the future. When measuring with an LCR meter, be certain it is working at the frequency that the toroid will actually be used. Many LCR meters work at a low fixed frequency, and the results obtained from those meters can be misleading when the toroid is used at the frequency that it was designed for. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/2/2011 9:48 PM, Ron VE8RT wrote: Thanks Don, I've received a few helpful responses already, which I appreciate. I could do without the RTV, except I like it at RFC14 because its jammed into a tight space, and as you mentioned, its a RF choke which wouldn't be critical. For a very long time conformal coating has been used in my field, avionics. Its great stuff to reduce board corrosion in damp environments, even if its just from condensation. That is if its applied carefully and the board and adjustable components and contacts are well masked. If it won't mess things up, when its finished I'd like to apply conformal to parts of the board, especially the underside of the board. Back to the RTV on RFC14, there is a very small dab of it on the bottom of the core, just to keep it upright. Anymore than a small dab would be a waste. OK, future cores I'll leave alone unless the manual says otherwise. And conformal coating parts of the board can wait until I look into this further. I have spare cores and wire, and an reasonably good LCR meter at work, I'll see what difference the coating makes in the value of toroidal coil. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] securing toroids in K2, why not?
Hi Jim, I've worked on aircraft for over 30 years and know what engineers can do :-) There are many airworthiness directives issued after the engineers have finished their work. I'd better not get something started, as I really do appreciate the work of the engineers. More field experience would help some of them. Ron VE8RT On Sat, 2011-07-02 at 22:47 -0400, Jim Campbell wrote: Reminds me of a story that I heard years ago while on an assignment in England. Seems that the Rolls Royce company didn't have an automatic transmission in their cars. Since automatic transmissions were the up-and-coming thing they decided that they needed one to offer in the Roolls Royce. Rather than design one from scratch they surveyed the field and decided that the best of breed was one made by General Motors. They entered into an agreement with GM to use theirs. They took a GM automatic transmission into their shop and tore it down completely. They wanted any transmission that was going into a Rolls Royce to be top quality, inside and out. Everything passed muster except for one part. It had a rough surface. That just wouldn't do so they machined the surface to a Rolls Royce standard. The trouble was that when the transmission was assembled it wouldn't work. They contacted GM and found out that the surface in question had to be rough or the transmission wouldn't work. Best to trust the judgment of the design engineers. 72, Jim - W4BQP K2 #2268 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Front Panel assembly question
Thanks Don, I installed the LCD last night and I used the remaining spacers (that I hadn't lost) and stacked on top of one of them the spacer used for the switches (so that the larger switch spacer would clear the cut off leads. It looks good to me, flat, level, and no visible gap, when held up to a bright light, between the LED panel and the LCD panel. Ron VE8RT On Fri, 2011-06-17 at 18:51 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: Ron, You need only some kind of spacers that are the thickness of 2 PC boards stacked one upon the other. While it is convenient to have the proper spacers that fit over the leads of the backlight assembly, that is not necessary. Find two pieces the thickness of the PC board material used by Elecraft - the switch spacing tool is one thickness - find something (anything, even popsicle sticks or matchsticks!) that matches it. Use that to hold the backlight assembly above the front panel board while you solder the leads on one end of the backlight assembly, then move the same stack to the other end and solder those leads - job done, remove the spacing tool and proceed with the assembly. Do be careful to obtain the correct size for whatever spacing tool you improvise. If the backlight assembly is not spaced the correct distance from the board, then the LCD will not fit correctly, and you may have interference problems when you attach the front panel metalwork. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/16/2011 11:47 PM, R Thompson wrote: While assembling my new K2, I've lost some of the LED backlight spacers that are broken off of the Spacer Set PC board. Ref. Figure 5-1 on page 23 of the assembly manual. I don't see where the LED backlight spacers are used, are they? If so I should order a replacement. Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Front Panel assembly question
Thanks, I spent almost 2 hours looking for the missing pieces, without success. There are several alternatives I can think of to use as temporary spacers. Fortunately this has been the only mishap during assembly, and hopefully the last. Ron VE8RT On Fri, 2011-06-17 at 15:26 -0700, Mike K8CN wrote: Hi Ron, Check Figure 5-9 on page 27 of the rev. H manual - the spacers are used only temporarily to set the height of the backlight assembly prior to soldering its pins in place. I suppose any other means you might devise to keep the backlight 1/8 inch off the front panel board and parallel to it would be acceptable (presuming you can extract the spacer after the backlight pins are soldered :) ). Don, W3FPR may have a better suggestion. 73, Mike, K8CN -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Front-Panel-assembly-question-tp6485680p6489056.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 Front Panel assembly question
While assembling my new K2, I've lost some of the LED backlight spacers that are broken off of the Spacer Set PC board. Ref. Figure 5-1 on page 23 of the assembly manual. I don't see where the LED backlight spacers are used, are they? If so I should order a replacement. Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
