Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K3] K3S to be discontinued

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Perhaps since that is the standard voltage for cars, trucks, RVs and other 
vehicles. 

I run my power supplies at 14.2 v to be as clean as possible. 

Rick NK7I

Smell Czech correction happens

> On Nov 4, 2019, at 12:53 PM, David Gilbert  wrote:
> 
> 
> Their continued insistence upon everything being 12 volt capable is a bit of 
> a puzzlement for me.
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[Elecraft] Fwd: (OT) Ca Fires

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Plus every time trimming or thinning is required, homeowner and legal processes 
(including court time in some cases) the utility (not just PG&E or SCE) must 
follow, take an inordinate amount of time and resources thanks to 
‘environmental’ groups failing to realize it is a renewable resource and a fact 
of living within a wildland urban interface (WUI).

It doesn’t have to be moonscaped, there are methods to manage forests and allow 
safe access for all, including utilities while lowering the fire risk.  

So we can also be more safe while operating our Elecraft products in the woods 
or at home too. ;-)

Rick NK7I  <<<—— was wa6nhc

Smell Czech corrections are inevitable

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Wayne Burdick 
> Date: November 4, 2019 at 8:50:38 AM PST
> To: "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
> Subject: [Elecraft] (OT) Ca Fires
> 
> There are at least three factors making fires both more intense and more 
> frequent in recent years:
> 
> 1. Our power companies (including PG&E) have not been diligent about clearing 
> trees away from residential and HV lines. In my own neighborhood I've spotted 
> many houses with power feeds that are intertwined with tree branches. When I 
> do, I alert the home owners to the existence of a hotline for PG&E trimming 
> service. 
> 
> 2. Due to either negligence or budget problems, they're not replacing old 
> equipment fast enough. Like gas infrastructure, there are transmission towers 
> and poles 50 to 100 years old in active service.
> 
> 3. Trees in California (and in the west, generally) have seen rapid increases 
> in die-offs due to extended drought, as well as bark beetles, sudden oak 
> death (SOD) and other infections. I travel around California often, and 
> everywhere I go I see patches of brown, dead trees in what used to be 
> pristine forest. 
> 
> Historically, bark beetle larvae were suppressed by winter freezes. But 
> average temperatures have been steadily rising. (First-hand experience: When 
> we moved to Belmont 25 years ago, we used to have a couple of days every 
> winter with lows below 30 degrees. Over the past three years the lowest I've 
> seen was 39.) As far as trees are concerned, it only takes a couple of 
> degrees to shift the balance. The larvae now survive most winters and 
> reproduce furiously, eating everything in sight. They're also able to migrate 
> to higher elevations, getting into more stands of trees.
> 
> Information on this phenomenon abounds, but one particularly good summary, 
> from Yale, can be found here:
> 
>
> https://e360.yale.edu/features/small-pests-big-problems-the-global-spread-of-bark-beetles
> 
> Of course we're used to disasters both man-made and natural in CA, and still 
> we persist  :)
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> 
>> On Nov 4, 2019, at 8:20 AM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> All public companies operate to benefit the investors/shareholders.
>> 
>> That means balancing dividends and profits against things that may impact 
>> their bottom line like destroying customer assets and legal threats.
>> 
>> SCE is no different, but they went more toward safety as a way to maximize 
>> shareholder value.  Safe, happy customers with homes and assets pay their 
>> bills better than dead or burned-out ones.
>> 
>> 73 -- Lynn
>> 
>>> On 11/3/2019 5:12 PM, Wes wrote:
>>> I'm shocked to hear that PG&E would actually think to pay dividends to 
>>> investors who put their money at risk.  The government of CA should put a 
>>> stop to this capitalist idea. and turn the management over to the MVD or 
>>> the bullet train people.
>>> Wes  N7WS
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 original - ALC erratic

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Is the tone frequency changing with the ALC changes?

Not all sound cards are ‘flat’ levels across a range. 

Verify it’s the ALC by not changing tones. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happens

> On Sep 15, 2019, at 9:23 PM, Jim Miller  wrote:
> 
> K3 original - ALC erratic
> 
> Noticeable on digital mode(s?) (FT8).  The ALC  - set at 4 solid and 5th
> flashing - is far more critical than I remember. Seems like I could easily
> set it exactly where I wanted it and it would stay there.  Now not so.
> Just wondering what can affect the adjustment to where it will drop to 2
> bars sometimes and the small change of the "mic" gain will make it higher
> than wanted.  Not sure it is a continuous condition.  Just far more critical
> than usual.
> 
> Thanks, Jim KG0KP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] RS-35M noise

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

I took the easy way out.  A used notepad provided the cardboard which was 
folded and wedged under the top cover.  Problem solved. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happens

> On Jun 9, 2019, at 3:24 PM, inventor61 .  wrote:
> 
> Hank
> 
> I am only fabricating new top covers for the 35A size Astron units.
> 
> For the majority of acoustic noise situations in the 35 amp size units (the
> variable and the fixed voltage models) the height of the steel cabinet is
> insufficient to keep the sheet metal of the lid away from the flux lines of
> the transformer.
> 
> The resulting eddy currents decay and 'fight' against the transformer field
> itself.
> This results in the buzzing type hum people experience.
> 
> Over time this vibration can loosen the transformer windings so it can buzz
> by itself.
> But generally, the bulk of the objectionable acoustic noise is from the top
> cover..
> 
> You can confirm the cause by simply removing the cover and operating the
> supply.
> There are only seven screws, as you probably already know.
> 
> Suitable electrical safety precautions are to be taken, of course.
> 
> If you have a 35A Astron unit and by the above method you can show yourself
> that the buzzing/hum noise is a result of the magnetic coupling /
> circulating current scenario I have described, this new composite cover
> will solve the problem - as well as reducing the obvious waste heat from
> the supply.
> 
> Steve KZ1X
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 6:17 PM HB  wrote:
>> 
>> Some more of the factory cork pieces between the transformer and case
>> fixed mine up – the 50 also.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hank
>> 
>> K4HYJ
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> *From: *inventor61 . 
>> *Sent: *Sunday, June 9, 2019 1:48 PM
>> *To: *li...@w2irt.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> *Subject: *[Elecraft] [OT] RS-35M noise
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I now have the prototypes completed of a composite material cover to
>> 
>> replace Astron 35A size power supply covers.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> This solves the acoustic noise problem.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The new cover looks terrific and is a 1:1 swap with the old one.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I went through *exactly* the same problem you describe, and then buying the
>> 
>> same replacement supply, then modifying it, ad nauseum, before fixing the
>> 
>> original issue.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I expect to be able to produce these (it's done on a CNC machine) in the
>> 
>> coming weeks.
>> 
>> I have several requests already.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I do not yet know the cost but it won't be outrageous.
>> 
>> Would this interest you?  It has certainly interested others!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 73 Steve KZ1X
>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Help with K3S upgrades

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

By ear is very close but if you already have WSJT-X, there is a calibrate mode 
for the last few Hertz. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On May 25, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Hank,
> 
> You don't need a highly accurate frequency counter.  You can get closer with 
> the beat note method.
> 
> You can use an audio spectrum analyzer (like Spectrogram or SpectrumLab) 
> running on your computer and the K3S rear headphone jack connected to your 
> soundcard Line In.
> 
> That will give you a visual display.  When you turn on SPOT, if the two audio 
> frequencies are far enough apart, you will see two both of them.
> When both frequencies are quite close, they will appear as one signal.
> When they are VERY close, you will see the "signal" begin to oscillate in 
> amplitude - when that oscillation slows to zero, that is the beat point you 
> are seeking.  In practice it is difficult to get it to exactly zero, but get 
> it as slow as possible - one or two oscillations each minute is practical 
> using that method.
> 
> If you need Spectrogram (Windows application), go to my website www.w3fpr.com 
> and scroll near the bottom of the opening page to find the links.  Those are 
> internal links on my website, and the files have been thoroughly scrubbed for 
> virus - although Norton does not like them because they do not have a large 
> enough user list for that application.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 5/25/2019 1:23 PM, h...@optilink.us wrote:
>> I have just installed the 1 PPM TXCO in my K3S.  I bought the K3S last
>> October as a kit and have installed many options since then.
>> One thing I'm concerned with is the reference calibration.  Without a good
>> frequency counter, I'm using WWV on 15Mhz and using beat cancelation.  My
>> ears are pretty good, but no match for a good frequency counter.
>> Any guys in the NW GA area (Tennessee, Alabama, and North Carolina area
>> really) that would be willing to help me set that reference calibration with
>> a good counter?  I'd be willing to pay you for your time!
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Notch Filter

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

1). The design of the K3 notch filter predates most digital modes currently 
used (excluding RTTY).   Earlier digital modes, were wider.  It may be possible 
to change the behavior.  

2). The use of legal limit or not isn’t the issue; as it may be needed to make 
the DESIRED contact, typically often required on the lower bands.  Your ability 
to hear such a strong signal has many factors, including band conditions and 
proximity. 

3). I defy anyone to determine without going to the other station or asking, if 
the ‘offending’ station is using a 10 dB amp or 10 dB gain antenna.   
Gain=gain, the means isn’t important.   Use what is needed to complete the 
contact. 

Without an amp, I would not have been able to work enough stations this past 
winter, for a 160 M DXCC (inverted L, 600 watts, 108 worked).  It would have 
been simpler has most of those I worked, also had more signal.  Full legal 
limit is very common there. 

I don’t listen to the digital modes but enjoy the quiet, volume down, ears safe 
(too late now).  I also run with AGC off, which doesn’t stop the audio system 
from using its AGC and causing blocking. 

However, FT4 and FT8 are very adept at hearing around the very strong, to hear 
the very weak. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On May 12, 2019, at 3:47 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> It appears from my measurements that the manual notch is about 200 Hz wide at 
> the 6 dB points.  That's the width of only 2 FT-8 signals and the depth of 
> the notch is about 40 dB.  Certainly will take out 1 or 2 signals and not 
> affect others in the 2.7 kHz BW of the normal FT-8 receiver bandwidth.
> 
> As to the bleeding ears, turn the volume down.   I don't find it necessary to 
> hear any FT-8 data.   Also, correct attention to AGC parameters does a lot to 
> deal with strong signals in the midst of weaker signals.   Also the use of 
> ATTN and RF Gain reduction is a big advantage, specially on 160M - 40M and to 
> some extent on 20M.
> 
> As to those running "legal limit", that depends on band and conditions, thus 
> one may find legal limit is necessary to make contacts.   It is a weak signal 
> mode not a low power mode. {Flame shields up.}
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
>> On 5/12/2019 5:27 PM, HB wrote:
>> Unfortunately you can’t.  I miss that feature from several other lesser 
>> radios.  You could target a particular audio frequency and set the width of 
>> the notch filter and make the offending sound go away!
>> 
>> Hank
>> K4HYJ
>> 
>> From: Richard
>> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2019 6:24 PM
>> To: Elecraft Reflector
>> Subject: [Elecraft] K3s Notch Filter
>> 
>> Is there any way to make the manual notch filter really narrow to keep 
>> morons running legal limit on FT8 from wiping out my waterfall and making my 
>> ears bleed?
>> 
>> Don’t like what AGC does.
>> 
>> Cheers!
>> Richard Kunc - W4KBX
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Feature Request

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Sticky timer; turn the K3 on at a set time each day. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happens

> On Apr 6, 2019, at 2:12 PM, Dick Dickinson  wrote:
> 
> Sticky Noise Blanker.through on/off cycle and band changes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dick - KA5KKT
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [FS] PX3

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

And if large/heavy enough, transport to HI is via shipping (actual ships); 
which bundle loads for efficiency and the arrival time can often be measured in 
weeks (and still not cheap); a place where no overnight UPS/USPS service exists 
to/from the mainland. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Jan 2, 2019, at 1:25 AM, Edward R Cole  wrote:
> 
> I would have bought the PX3.  But get the list by digest so not fast enough 
> with my offer.
> 
> I LIVE IN ALASKA so I am well aware of USPS rates for shipping in/out of AK.  
> Flat-rate Priority Mail  to  anywhere in  the USA is  the  same.
> Parcel Post is by zone and can be expensive for large/heavy items and takes 
> about 12-16 days delivery, depending on destination.
> 
> USPS/UPS/FedEx all take 3-days (min) for delivery to AK (even though listed 
> as 2-day delivery).  UPS/Fedex are typically twice as expensive for the same 
> package, so if it fits a flat-rate box its much cheaper.  All my mail is sent 
> to the PO where I have a PO Box (no home delivery) so much more secure than 
> UPS/FedEx that drop the box on my front porch and scoot.  Unless I order 
> signature required.
> 
> I ship 15 to 20 items per year to US and International locations so I am not 
> talking theory!
> 
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
>  http://www.kl7uw.com
> Dubus-NA Business mail:
>  dubus...@gmail.com 
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Re: [Elecraft] Ideas for an FT8 Radio

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

You run the amount of power required to make the contact, up to the legal 
limit.  If you wish to operate QRP, that’s your choice.

I remind you that RTTY is also digital and full legal limit is common; FT8 is 
semi-automated RTTY with complex pattern but improved reception.  High power is 
also common.  On some bands (160M) its nearly a requirement.

There is no difference between antenna gain, when possible or amp gain of equal 
dB raise.  Many folks can’t use improved antennas (no space or budget), so 
power is an answer. 

The true issue is when folks don’t run clean power.

73,
Rick wa6nhc

Spiel Czech happens

> On Jan 1, 2019, at 8:42 PM, Ken  wrote:
> 
> Geesh, how much power are people running?  I've always thought 50 watts was 
> excessive for digital modes!
> 
> As for the concept of a dedicated FT8 radio, what's going to happen when FT9 
> becomes the latest craze?  How many people operate Olivia (or even JT-65) now?
> 
> Ken WA8JXM
> 
> 
>> On 12/29/18 5:23 PM, Rick Bates (WA6NHC) wrote:
>> 50-70 watts out is fine, that will provide adequate drive for most amps to 
>> run their full rated power out.  If you don’t want that much, turn it down.
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Re: [Elecraft] Ideas for an FT8 Radio

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

50-70 watts out is fine, that will provide adequate drive for most amps to run 
their full rated power out.  If you don’t want that much, turn it down. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Dec 29, 2018, at 1:54 PM, Bill Rowlett  wrote:
> 
> 25 watts out max.
> 
> KC4IM  Bill
> 
> 
>> On Dec 29, 2018, at 4:16 PM, Doug Millar via Elecraft 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Ok, I am going out on a limb. I have been trying to imagine an FT8 all in 
>> one radio. How about this- A radio that is 6 by 10" or so with a screen that 
>> lays flat on top and swivels up for use. Mouse but only and an optional 
>> keyboard since the programs are primarily mouse driven. The computer 
>> (raspberry pi et al.)  inside the radio box. 50watts output, 160-6m and all 
>> mode. A jack for an external monitor would be good. This would make a very 
>> portable digital radio that only needs an antenna, dc, and a mouse or track 
>> pad to make it work, but also have the ability to expand for more fixed use. 
>>What do you think? 
>>  61, Doug K6JEY
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Re: [Elecraft] Opportunism, bravery, insanity: putting the "eXtreme" in Elecraft's KX and AX gear

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

It’s also a growing, dynamic therefore unstable collection of code.  Wait for 
it to mature. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Dec 19, 2018, at 5:55 PM, Neil Zampella  wrote:
> 
> FWIW ... easier said than done, there's a lot more to it than there is to CW, 
> RTTY, or even PSK.
> 
> Neil, KN3ILZ
> 
>> On 12/19/2018 9:44 AM, Andy McMullin wrote:
>> I’d vote for that idea too!
>> 
>> Regards
>> Andy, G8TQH
>> 
>>> On 19 Dec 2018, at 14:36, Bob N3MNT  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Maybe add WSJT-X capability to PX3
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
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Re: [Elecraft] CODEC

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

I’ve had zero issues with WSJT-X over HRD and now that the logging hooks were 
added to HRD, no more importing logs (or a third party program to link logs) is 
required. 

It just works. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Oct 1, 2018, at 12:42 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> While I use both WSJT-X, V1.9.1,  and HRD, I allow WSJT to create and save 
> its own log.  Then I transfer the entries from the WSJT log to my other log 
> system.  That then uploads the selected entries to LOTW.I've more often 
> than not found that if I allow one software to run within or under another 
> software, there's just two many cooks in the kitchen tasting the pot. In 
> other words, I run WSJT as a stand a lone application and do not have any 
> conflicts.  The operating system is a current version of Windows 10 with all 
> of their updates.
> 
> As suggestions, I would open WSJT as a stand a lone and see if it connects to 
> the rig and operates correctly.   Then close WSJT and open HRD using one of 
> its modes, i.e. PSK-31, and see if it operates correctly.If so on both, 
> and mine does, then there is no specific issue with either application or the 
> computer or the radio.   I use the USB communication with my K3S.  Then with 
> both applications running I find is the area where the hand shake is 
> supported to occur but indeed a fist fight breaks out.   That says HRD will 
> need to be update in order for Windows 10 to handle the activity.  The bottom 
> line, when Microsoft updates Windows 10, all other application software is 
> likely in need of an update as well.
> 
> Good luck in resolving the issue.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
>> On 10/1/2018 12:36 PM, ROBERT MUELLER wrote:
>> Mike, I would be interested in what you find.  Since Microsoft and then HRD 
>> did upgrades I have not been able to get WSJT to work with HRD and my K3S, 
>> therefore, the logging from FT* to HRD will not work.  When I try to set 
>> things up I get a message:   Hamlib error: IO error while opening connection 
>> to rig.  I am running a USB cable which worked fine until all the upgrades.  
>> Very interested in what you find.
>> Bob, k8...@comcast.net
>>> On October 1, 2018 at 11:49 AM Mike Greenway  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I have used for years a K3 on EME with WSJT using Line In/Out audio.  
>>> Recently got a K3S and I am now using USB (CODEC) audio in and out of the 
>>> radio.  In WSJT-10 they have Rate In/Rate Out monitors that should normally 
>>> run at 1.000. Using the K3 analog audio these always stayed right on 1.000 
>>> but now that I am using the USB audio they are jumping around quite often 
>>> and getting out of range indicated in WSJT with a red marker.  I have tried 
>>> two different computers and the same result.  I tried changing the sample 
>>> rate in the computer audio settings but no change in the problem.  I plan 
>>> to go back to analog Line In/Out on the K3S unless someone has an idea on 
>>> how to settle down the Rate In/Out fluctuations.  I have not found anything 
>>> in the K3S that might affect this.  You can reply off line if you like.  73 
>>> Mike K4PI
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and WSJT-X Split operation.

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Good to know for DX mode, also good to learn something.   Had I thought it 
through it makes sense on harmonics alone. 

In regular mode, I stay between 1500 and 2200 Hz, so I don’t have to futz with 
the input level (either the sound card or the line in is not flat, then it 
power hunts).   That means also that harmonics are well out of the filtered 
range. 

Thanks!  I’ll try it. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Jun 29, 2018, at 12:45 PM, Mike Cizek W0VTT  wrote:
> 
> Hello Rick,
> 
> You really DO need to use some sort of frequency control, either split or
> fake-it, especially in F&H mode.  When you transmit the lower audio tones,
> their harmonics and distortion will still be in your audio passband and be
> transmitted along with the desired tones.  The purpose of using proper rig
> control is to keep the audio tones above 1500 Hz so the harmonics and
> distortion are out of your transmit passband.  
> 
> -- 
> 73,
> Mike Cizek WØVTT
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick WA6NHC
> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2018 14:06
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and WSJT-X Split operation.
> 
> I run WSJT-X via HRD rig control (SignaLink audio) for CAT PTT (and VFO) 
> on the K3.
> 
> I do NOT set WSJT-X for any split.  The (sole) VFO doesn't move once set.
> 
> In everyday FT8, it's fine to let the audio determine actual frequency 
> (the other uses one 'tone', I stay on mine or not, think of it as cross 
> band ops).
> 
> In hound mode, the change in 'tone' is determined by the program (once 
> ack'ed by the fox); no VFO shift is required.
> 
> It's been flawless without moving a VFO (except when initially selecting 
> a band or changing to the fox frequency).  No added commands to the K3, 
> life is simple.
> 
> There is a designed lag from keyup to actual generation of tone, which 
> is fine, it lets all the hardware (amps, pre-amps) have time to get 
> 'safe' if needed (the KPA line doesn't require it).
> 
> Yes, WSJT-X whines every startup in hound configuration that it 'needs' 
> split, but that isn't the case in reality.  This setup works, it's 
> simple and simple ROCKS on any day.
> 
> Rick nhc
> 
> 
>> On 6/29/2018 10:44 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:
>> Do you have the same mode selected for both VFOs?  Give the A -> B a 
>> double tap to be sure. Understand that in Hound mode you need to set 
>> your TX frequency above 1000 Hz.  If the Fox calls you he will move 
>> your TX down to his frequency.
>> 
>> I'm still experiencing a TX delay, which I think is WSJT commanding 
>> the K3 to go Split and then waiting for confirmation. This has been 
>> discussed before.  Also, I use VOX and we still don't have VOX 
>> settings remembered by mode, so there is constant fiddling to get the 
>> VOX to activate.
>> 
>> Wes  N7WS
>> 
>> 
>>> On 6/29/2018 9:46 AM, K1RI wrote:
>>> I too run split FT8 Data A.  I cannot get the K3 to transmit in the WSJT
>>> DXPedition Hound. What am I missing?  My IC-7610 works great and I 
>>> would run
>>> a comparison.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Tnx,  Bob K1RI
>>> 
>> 
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[Elecraft] KPA1500 s/n 122

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Has arrived home safely.  However since I just returned from 10 days of travel, 
including 3300 road miles (in part to collect a SteppIR DB42 and a 55’ tower), 
it’ll have to wait for a couple days. 

Purchase time was: 24 Aug @ 23:59, processed 25 Aug @ 2:00 AM, payment cleared 
30 Aug. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen
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Re: [Elecraft] Infamous red blinking LED

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Many desktops of recent vintage don’t truly go ‘off’ at shutdown.  There are 
mobo elements still powered (by the p/s), including USB. 

To reset a ‘stuck bit’ the power cord must be unplugged then wait a time period 
until the caps STILL holding power deplete (a LED on my Asus board goes out and 
a soft relay click is heard).  Only then does the USB reset and starts to 
function normally at boot up. 

My current station setup is not ideal, the USB is the weak link under QRO HF.  
I’m in the process of building a better quality station. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Apr 28, 2018, at 9:41 AM, Mark E. Musick  wrote:
> 
> 
> Don suggested rebooting the PC to clear the USB port. You indicate you have 
> done that with no success.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Faulting on high SWR on power rise

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

In my case, the 4:1 was shown as correct by comparing to a 1:1 (for me).  I was 
able to find more usable bands with the 4:1 (meaning closer matches). 

If the dipole is single band only, using a 75 ohm feed (choke at the transition 
from feed to antenna) is best.   A resonant dipole is closer to 72 ohms, 
ignoring local conditions, one of which is elevation above ground.   Inverted 
vee systems are lower impedance so 50 ohm is the proper choice (again, single 
band only).

For this example of multiband use AND open wire feed (for dramatically lower 
feed loss at high SWR) which alters the impedance of the system and the length 
of the feed matters; one can use an analyzer to find which transformer works 
best or simply try both. 

The 4:1 presents a bit more device loss compared to a 1:1, but if it also 
provides near resonance on more bands, so that loss is negligible. 

With open line (75-600 ohm typical) you don’t match the line with the balun, 
you match what the SYSTEM presents, antenna and feed. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Feb 24, 2018, at 7:30 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> I question the 4:1 balun being the correct nor best choice. Typical of that 
> antenna the feed Z of the radiator is more likely 25 to 35 ohms. The 4:1 
> balun is presenting something like 10 ohms to the tuner. Worst case for high 
> current and hi loss in the tuner causing heating.   A 1:1 balun would seem 
> more likely correct. 
> 
> Many seem to "think" a 4:1 balun is correct when using open wire or a 
> balanced line to "match the line". 
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 faulting on high VSWR on power rise

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

I’ve always presumed that the ratings were based on 1:1 SWR as there is no 
reasonable way to define it otherwise.   Actual ratings at other loads can be 
inferred on that basis. 

An end fed dipole is MUCH harder to tame than a dipole (or fan dipole) and 
inherently challenging to keep the RF away from places like the shack. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Feb 24, 2018, at 11:42 AM, Erik Basilier  wrote:
> 
> So, the manufacturer of the protective device should probably not just tell 
> you a wattage rating, but also the acceptable swr level for that power.

> Or abandon the ladder+balun+coax approach and go to an end-fed dipole with 
> transformer that can provide low impedance coax feed on all bands.
> 
> 73,
> Erik 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Faulting on high SWR on power rise

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

It appears that the higher voltages at QRO are enough on return to fault the 
amp.  That could be an arc or the match isn’t really 1:1.   Using an antenna 
analyzer at the balun would be useful. 

If you’re on 80M, without the tuner, you’re likely to see ~3:1 untuned at the 
balun, within the range that should almost work, BUT it also depends on the 
length of the open wire feed.  (Using a 75 ohm feed would be wiser if used for 
only 80M). 

Try modeling it on EZ-NEC, then adjust the feed (in the model) by some feet to 
see what that does.  If you’re using it for multiband, you’ll have to run it 
for each band.  Getting it to work well on all bands is a serious challenge, 
near impossible; something has to give. 

It’s likely too that the model won’t show coupling or losses exactly to the 
real world (metal, trees, walls), so if it suggests you make changes, you’ll 
still have to adjust to your real antenna.  In short, go play. 

My 340’ 80M EDZ was textbook perfect (2 opposing 5/8 wave, center fed, NOT 
resonant) but didn’t load that way, until I added almost 30’ more antenna AND 
shortened the feed by 50’ in the real world.  After more than 200 countries 
later (on all bands 160-10), I’d say it worked pretty well.   Not easy, but I 
was patient.  Having a K3 made the difference, often the DX did too. 

Good luck, it’s one of the fun things to do in ham radio. 

73, 
Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Feb 23, 2018, at 9:42 PM, Chris Hallinan  wrote:
> 
> Greetings from southwest Florida.
> 
> My KPA500 is kicking out with REFL HI warning (high SWR).  But here is the
> strangeness. My setup is K3->KPA500->40' coax->MFJ 600W remote tuner -> 4:1
> balun -> open wire feedline to 80-meter doublet.  In words, I have a remote
> autotuner feeding an 80-meter doublet fed with 600-ohm open wire line.  A
> Balun Designs 4:1 balun provides the interface from the open wire line to
> the tuner.
> 
> With the autotuner tuned at low power, the SWR shows 1.5:1 on my KPA500 and
> external SWR meter.  As I run the power up to 300, 400, 500 watts,
> somewhere in there all of a sudden the SWR instantly jumps off the scale,
> into the red LEDs on KPA500, and it faults.  It's as if the SWR were
> dependent on power.
> 
> Even stranger, when I back the power off to say 250 Watts, holding key down
> the SWR is stable in the green (<1.5:1), but when I key it at CW rates, the
> SWR bounces into the red on every dit and eventually faults, when at steady
> state key down it never leaves the green zone!
> 
> I fear it is the tuner falling over, but it should be able to handle the
> power.  I see this on all bands from 80-20.
> 
> Operating into my 20-meter resonant vertical, with no tuner, everything
> works fine.
> 
> Any ideas or hints on how to correct this?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Chris
> 73 de K1AY
> 
> 
> -- 
> Life is like Linux - it never stands still.
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Re: [Elecraft] Ordered KPA1500 on 8/30

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

08/25/17 @2:00 am. Paid in full. 

No call. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Feb 7, 2018, at 6:09 PM, Ed Gray W0SD  wrote:
> 
> My Invoice is dated 8/29/2017 for the full amount.  I am sure we are all 
> curious what the invoice date is of those being shipped with admittedly the 
> warning that is not an absolute but it would give us that ordered some clues.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Ed W0SD
> 
> 
>> On 2/7/2018 7:47 PM, W1PEF wrote:
>> Just FYI ordered on 8/30 but over charged. Deposit/adjustment on 9/5 with 
>> apology from Elecraft. No call here yet for the KPA1500.
>> Paul - W1PEF
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
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>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Operation of K Line Over LAN

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

One of the simplest ways is to use HRD at the station; TeamViewer to run the 
station remotely and Skype for audio (I use the SignaLink for that for SSB) 
from a laptop, tablet or smartphone.   (I also run the KAT and KAP utilities, 
so I have complete station control.)

The software is free (after the initial HRD support purchase) and I’ve used 
that method all over the continent and Hawaii.  The only issues are satellite 
latency if the local internet access isn’t wire based (not an issue for a LAN).

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Jan 11, 2018, at 6:49 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Tom,
> 
> Look in the archives for the post by Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft on 
> 1/5/2018 - I received it at 3:32 PM Eastern time.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 1/11/2018 8:05 PM, Tom Richardson wrote:
>> I will be bed-ridden with a broken leg for a few weeks. Does anyone
>> know of any straightforward methods for operating my K3S and KPA500
>> over my wireless LAN using my laptop plus Ham Radio Deluxe or another
>> software package?
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Why don’t we all just chill?  It’s like waiting for the birth of a baby; which 
happens, when it’s both ready and in its time. 

It’s cheaper to wait until it’s ready than shipping it back and forth. 

It’s close, you can see the head crowning. 😜

But before Bouvet would be nice. 

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech correction happen

> On Dec 12, 2017, at 3:11 PM, ROBERT MUELLER  wrote:
> 
> Why don't we tell Wayne it is time to stop tweaking and start telling us what 
> their production schedule is and when they will start shipping. If they 
> intend to ship mid-December then they should have production schedules in 
> place right now.
> 
>> On December 12, 2017 at 6:00 PM Jim Rhodes  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Just in time to be held up by Christmas shipping! ;-)
>> 
>> Jim Rhodes
>> K0XU
>> 
>>> On Dec 12, 2017 12:37, "GRANT YOUNGMAN"  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Website says …. mid to late December. http://www.elecraft.com/
>>> elecraft_shipping_status.htm >> elecraft_shipping_status.htm>
>>> 
>>> 
 On Dec 12, 2017, at 1:18 PM, Art via Elecraft 
>>> wrote:
 
 What's the status of shipping these?
 
 
 Art KZ5D
 __
 
>>> 
>>> Grant NQ5T
>>> K3 #2091, KX3 #8342
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 100% Duty Cycle - Operating Temperature

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Pffft.

Use only enough power to allow the completion of the contact.  Even if it’s 
legal limit. 

It’s a common misconception.   

Rick WA6NHC

Smell Czech happens

> On Nov 4, 2017, at 4:59 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
>  wrote:
> 
> 20 watts is a lot of power on PSK-31.
> 
> 10 watts is a lot of power on PSK-31.
> 
> 73 -- Lynn
> 
>> On 11/4/2017 3:55 PM, K1FFX wrote:
>> I started running some 100% duty cycle operation with my KPA100 (PSK31 and
>> Olivia).  I was running 20 watts ..
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 additional info

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

The KPA500, my only amp, will happily run up to the device limits (~600 watts) 
on all HF bands (500 watts on 6 M).

This includes 60 M and 30 M where US hams are power limited by the rules (to 
100 watts ERP relative to a half wave dipole on 60; and 200 watts for 30).

It is of course, up to the operator to manage the station within the 
appropriate rules. 

Rick WA6NHC

Tiny iPhone keypad & spiel Czech happens

> On Apr 23, 2017, at 1:42 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
>  Do any amps take into account for power limit on 30 m or 60 as well?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Line-In issues

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Don't forget to check the driver settings in your software. 

Rick WA6NHC

Tiny iPhone keypad & spiel Czech, errors happen

> On Mar 5, 2017, at 12:04 PM, CAS  wrote:
> 
> I have been using my K3 with a SignaLink USB for some time without issue. 
> This last week I had everything working and then did a firmware upgrade to 
> the latest version. I now get nothing in or out of the Line-In/Line-Out ports 
> on the back of the radio. The microphone seems to work fine, but I am no 
> longer able to work digital using the ports on the back
> 
> I have tried adjusting the gain by setting MIC GAIN to Line In and this also 
> has no effect.
> 
> I am sure it is a confused setting after the reflash of the firmware, but at 
> this point I am unable to locate the problem. Does anyone have any 
> suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Corky
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ham funeral processions

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

That sounds like a proper send off for one that QSY'ed to a higher band. 😜

Rick WA6NHC

Tiny iPhone keypad & spiel Czech happens

> On Jan 9, 2017, at 8:11 PM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
> 
> Rose and I were in W7OIO's funeral procession a few years ago ... there
> were -LOTS- of us on his "home" repeater with many BV's, 73, etc., 
> even a bit of CW   such things -do- happen.  😁
> 
> 73 K0PP
> 
> 
> On Jan 9, 2017 8:49 PM, "Alan Bloom"  wrote:
> 
> On 01/09/2017 07:13 PM, K9ZTV wrote:
> 
>> Hi Ron ...
>> 
>> We customized the head-panel of Tom Hammond's (N0SS) casket to
>> incorporate his picture, call sign, tower, K2, and K3.  Most anything
>> is possible these days.  What you suggest is definitely doable.  The
>> difficulty lies in helping some people understand what the word
>> "appropriate" means.
>> 
> 
> I was once listening to a ham yakking on a local repeater when I figured
> out from his conversation that he was operating from a funeral procession.
> I guess he couldn't tear himself away from ham radio long enough to pay his
> respects to the dear departed.
> 
> What is that line from the Radio Amateur's Code?
> 
> "The Radio Amateur is balanced.  Radio is a hobby, never interfering with
> duties owed to family, job, school or community."
> 
> :=)
> 
> Alan N1AL
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 shutting down

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

It could also be tiny livestock nibbling at the wiring, making nests etc. (or 
large livestock tripping, kicking ...)  Just because you didn't do anything 
doesn't mean they're idle.  Natural events such as lightning, icing of the 
antennas or something else could make things go wonky (usually a reset of power 
clears electrical issues and it might NOT be KPA related if one of the other 
connected devices went whack).  If you haven't been there in a year, perhaps 
loneliness?  ;-)

If you are using a remote computer, the readings you seek to know (voltage, 
current, SWR) are available via the utility program (that's how I control mine 
remotely).

I'd be VERY curious if shutdown was truly random as opposed to happening when 
the transmitter was on.  But that would tend to point to a non-RF issue.

Ultimately, it appears you'll have to take a day trip to investigate.

73,
Rick

Spell Czech happens

> On Nov 22, 2016, at 11:04 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV  wrote:
> 
> Perhaps outdoors you have had a ground go bad, or a connector go bad, to
> all of a sudden have RF in the shack. Connection work loose, that kind of
> thing. These could happen without your seeing SWR on the line you are
> transmitting on.
> 
> 73, Guy K2AV
> 
> On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 8:53 AM, Michael Walker 
> wrote:
> 
>> I run a remote base with a KPA500.  The Amp is a 3 hour drive away.
>> 
>> I can control just about everything remotely without effort.  The
>> installation has been rock solid for years (Flex 6300 / KPA500)  and lots
>> of chokes everwhere.
>> 
>> Last week the unit worked fine.  Today the KPA500 appears to shut down
>> based on the Remote GUI.
>> 
>> I will be on SSB, and then I see the bar at the bottom go to PWR OFF, reset
>> and go back to Powering ON/ Amp On.  This is when the amp is only producing
>> about 300 watts peak (about 24 watts drive).
>> 
>> There are no error messages displayed at all and the only thing I suspect
>> it might be is low AC voltage into the amp.
>> 
>> RF could be the problem, however in 2 years running contests, this is the
>> first time I have seen a shutdown like this.  I run many Mix 43 chokes on
>> all coax and signal lines.
>> 
>> Are there other messages I can see by monitoring the Serial port at all?
>> Any thing else I can do remotely?
>> 
>> I can recreate this on 160/80/40m.  Those antennas are at least 150 ft from
>> the station.
>> 
>> Also, at times, the GUI will seem to freeze.  The buttons work, but the bar
>> graphs are stuck frozen in time at a peak reading.  Yet, I can power off
>> the amp when this happens.
>> 
>> Currently, the amp is about 34F ambient temp.  In the past, I have used it
>> well below that (-25F) without issue (last winter).
>> 
>> My question is to the Elecraft guru's.  Any thoughts?  I am trying to
>> retrieve more data from the KPA500 remotely.
>> 
>> Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] circuit breaker

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Is it possible that it 'belched' and the power reset is what really fixed it?

73,
Rick WA6NHC

Tiny iPhone keypad, spell check happens

> On May 16, 2016, at 1:40 PM, Todd Ruby  wrote:
> 
> Well Ron, I guess there's a first time for everything. Although the radio was 
> deaf and dumb, I had display function and it looked as it normally does after 
> turning on the power. There was just no receive nor output power. 
> 
> I turned it off, pressed the 20 amp circuit breaker on the rear panel and 
> sigs were coming through the headphones and I had full power. 
> 
> Today it's also operating perfectly. 
> 
> 73
> 
> Todd
> 
>> On May 16, 2016, at 3:30 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
>> 
>> Todd responded to me off the reflector that he lost all power to the K3 so 
>> it wasn’t the 20A breaker. That only controls power to the KPA3. The front 
>> panel is still powered and the receiver continues to work.
>> 
>> I suggested it might be the self-resetting breaker inside the K3. That will 
>> turn it off completely. Actually power will still be on the KPA3 module and 
>> anything plugged into the 12V external power connector on the K3 rear panel, 
>> but the K3 itself will look dead with no front panel lights, receive or 
>> other functions until it cools and resets itself.
>> 
>> I’ve never had an issue with either breaker opening unexpectedly.
>> 
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>> 
>> From: a...@sbcglobal.net [mailto:a...@sbcglobal.net] 
>> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 12:18 PM
>> To: Ron D'Eau Claire; 'todd ruby'; 'Elecraft Reflector Reflector'
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] circuit breaker
>> 
>> I believe Todd is referring to the breaker on the K3, not his house panel 
>> circuit?
>> Ron has some good advice, but I wonder how common this circuit breaker 
>> operates? 
>> 
>> I looked thru my manual for more info on it.  The block diagram shows it as 
>> a 25A fuse,
>> text and device indicate 20A circuit breaker, but NO  info on the type 
>> operating curve, or current vs. time for minimum trip?
>> 
>> I have a 10A circuit breaker on my 40Ahr battery supply and it has never 
>> tripped.  It is a thermal time delay like most house breakers.
>> 
>> Anyone out there have any clue?   Wayne? 
>> 
>> Mike  AC5P
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Monday, May 16, 2016 12:28 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> The normal underlying cause for the breaker to open is over-current. That's
>> a 20A breaker that protects only the KPA3 100 watt amplifier module. The
>> first thing I'd do is check the current drain from your power supply on the
>> band where you experienced the problem. First set the power to 10 watts so
>> the KPA3 is bypassed and note the total current drain key down. Now crank up
>> the power and see if the part used by the KPA3 is pushing 20A. For example,
>> if your total current at 10 W was 3A, does the total at 100 watts approach
>> 23A? IF so, the breaker was simply doing its job. Note that circuit breakers
>> are not precision devices so it may trip a couple of amperes one way or the
>> other from 20A. 
>> 
>> A primary reason for excessive KPA3 current is a high SWR on your antenna
>> system. The higher the SWR, the less efficient the KPA3 becomes and the more
>> current it has to draw to produce the power. 
>> 
>> A defective breaker can also start tripping at lower currents. 
>> 
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of todd
>> ruby
>> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 9:08 AM
>> To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
>> Subject: [Elecraft] circuit breaker
>> 
>> Would anyone venture to guess what would cause the circuit breaker to trip
>> on a K3? Mine did all of a sudden yesterday. Fortunately, my friend
>> suggested the reset and voila, I am back on the air. But if there is an
>> underlying cause, I think it would be wise to be aware of it so as to
>> preclude this episode from repeating. Any thoughts are welcome.
>> 
>> 73
>> 
>> todd
>> 
>> WB2ZAB
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Pigtails on ANT1 and ANT2 UHF Bulkhead Connectors

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

Remove the trailing zero (.htm only) and the link will work.

Rick nhc

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 17, 2016, at 9:42 AM,   
> wrote:
> 
> http://www.wa1mba.org/UHFconn.htm0
> 
> bob k3djc
> 
> On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 09:31:28 -0800 Jim Brown 
> writes:
>> On Wed,2/17/2016 6:21 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
>>> Please cite your authority for the "superiority" of "UHF
>> Connectors" to quality N-Connectors.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] DIY Hard-drawn copper wire

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

All true Ron, but remember that copper is only the main element in the alloy at 
hand. 

The one time you take something in safety for granted is the one time it turns 
on you.  It waits...

73,
Rick nhc

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 13, 2016, at 9:47 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
> 
> Copper is ductile, not elastic. So pulling it will cause it to stretch but
> when it breaks it does not return to its original length releasing a lot of
> energy. It will simply separate at the point of failure, as others noted. 
> 
> Even so, I am careful any time I'm applying a lot of pressure to anything.
> Murphy reigns supreme over mere mortal Hams.
> 
> 73, Ron AC7AC 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
>> On 2/11/16 3:13 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
>> (4) If you are breaking things, such as #8 copper wire, cover them 
>> with blankets to minimize the danger of having them snap through the air.
>> (5) Keep everyone far enough away so flying wire won't hit them, or 
>> keep them in a closed vehicle.
> 
> 
> Those are what I was thinking.   Be sure to be safely inside the car and 
> be willing to damage the car.
> 
> p.s. I think it's cheaper and better to just purchase harddrawn copper or
> copperweld wire.  YMMV
> 
> Ken WA8JXM
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Re: [Elecraft] having problems connecting my K-3 to Ham Radio Deluxe

[Rick Bates (WA6NHC)]

The driver for the KUSB must match the port that HRD is looking for (each set 
to COMx).  Start there. 

I use HRD without issues on the K line. 

Rick wa6nhc

Tiny iPhone 5 keypad, typos are inevitable

> On Nov 6, 2015, at 5:44 AM, John Weber  wrote:
> 
> Here  is a general overview of my problem
> 
> 
> K-3 radio, new Lenovo desk top with windows 10 operating system
> 
> 
> HRD version 6.3 (latest Software )
> 
> 
> Elecraft KUSB black cable 
> 
> 
> Please note that I operated the radio with HRD in the past using an old 
> computer using windows 7 but that computer has gone to the grave yard.
> 
> 
> I have contacted HRD , Lenovo & Elecraft to trouble shoot the problem 
> 
> 
> When I connect the radio thru the KUSB port to the computer and load the HRD 
> program 
> 
> I get a screen indicating that the program can not find the radio.
> 
> Elecraft indicates that the drivers in the computer operating system are not 
> the drivers needed to operate the radio, so I down loaded the driver that 
> Elecraft indicated and still can not connect.
> 
> I Used an old computer with a Windows Vista operating system and connected it 
> to the radio with HRD 6.3 and it operated correctly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has any one had this problem ??
> 
> And what is the solution !
> 
> Please advise 
> 
> 
> John WA2C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Windows Mail
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Windows 7 AGC on Input

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

From my saved email files... it may help/apply.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=

Found this article posted on the Yahoo Groups Ten-Tec Omni VII group today:  
https://www.reddit.com/r/amateurradio/comments/3eytah/huge_windows_bug_ruining_your_receive_performance/
 
The article discusses a Windows Vista and later versions bug when interfacing 
with an audio device utilizing the Texas Instruments PCM2900 series PCM2904 and 
below, pre-C revisions device.  The article also shows a permanent (software 
configuration change) fix for the bug.
 
The article states that all Signalink USB digital mode interfaces are affected 
by this bug.
 
Knowing that some of you are using the Signalink USB, I’m sending you this info 
in case you were not already aware of it.
 
Some of you may have rigs with a direct computer interface for digital mode 
operation.  Your rig may use the affected TI device.  If so, you are also 
affected.
 
In my case, I use the Signalink USB.  When I first installed it, I noted I had 
to run the Signalink’s RX gain and Codec gain controls very low to get good 
levels to the computer.  As a result, I added a 10:3510 or -51db (voltage) 
divider on the Signalink’s input (mounted on the rig programming socket inside 
the unit).  Now I know why that was required – the bug in Windows for the audio 
device being used.  With the bug fix from the article, I have now reverted back 
to not using the voltage divider.  Hopefully, levels are now above noise floor 
values and results will be better.  I’ve also downloaded and installed the 
digital level meter applet the author mentioned.  It is available at 
http://www.darkwooddesigns.co.uk/pc2/meters.html, about 1/3 down in the page.
 
Hope you find this article useful.
--
 


Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Oct 4, 2015, at 8:39 AM, David Cole  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am trying to solve a slight digital problem, using my K3.  I suspect
> that Windows 7 has an AGC of some type on it controlling the Line Input
> levels.
> 
> Can someone verify if this is true, and if so, is there a way to disable
> the AGC on input?
> 
> -- 
> Thanks and 73's,
> For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
> www.nk7z.net
> 
> For MixW support see;
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
> For Dopplergram information see:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
> For MM-SSTV see:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] MCU 5.13 observation

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

While I don't use it often, I note that in MCU 5.13/FP 1.19, the CW Reader 
Speed is no longer there (telling you the CW speed you're hearing).  It's 
sometimes useful to help match QRQ inclined DX ops (I can only read MY call up 
to about 40 WPM, *IF* its a very good signal). Other times it's more like holy 
 !!!  :o)

Did I miss that change in the notes?

Rick, WA6NHC

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 Feature Request - Main: ALARM - Tap 4 to activate reminder to ID

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Tap 5 to make it sticky (repeatable) the next time period (which could be 
hourly too?)

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Feb 19, 2015, at 10:25 AM, Dwayne Rohmer  wrote:
> 
> K3 Feature Request
> 
> MAIN: ALARM - Tap 4 to activate reminder to ID (two beeps every ten minutes)
> 
> 73,
> 
> Dwayne WV5I
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Re: [Elecraft] getting started with QRP

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Signing /qrp is not a great idea.  Just make your call and see where it takes 
you.

There are plenty of receivers in the Reverse Beacon Net that will cluster spot 
for you when you simply call CQ (in nearly any digital mode, including CW).

Having said that, some DX clusters mismanage the /qrp if your CQ gets beacon 
posted.  That can raise the frustration level of folks watching the cluster 
because it may give a false country allocation.  Um, some folks handle that 
frustration better than others... ;)

Only a few DX stations actively working contacts will take the time for QRP.

Life is too short for QRP.  ;o) but opinions may vary.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Jan 4, 2015, at 11:51 AM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
> 
> Fred's certainly correct with his advice about not signing "/QRP".  Many
> see it as some form of "I'm special,  take pitty on me" or "whining".
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Re: [Elecraft] kpa1500?

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

It would be for those of us that run the station remotely.  It's hard to reach 
the tuning knobs if you aren't there.

No tune amps and auto-tuners are perfect for this example.  In my belts and 
suspenders preference, I also can watch the station with Skype video and a web 
cam, should the tuner need attention (or fault out).

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Dec 13, 2014, at 11:27 AM, GRANT YOUNGMAN  wrote:
> 
> 
>> 
>> 
>> And then there would have to
>> be a KAT1500 to go with it.
> 
> Have we completely lost the ability to do anything if a mouse click or 
> one-button push won’t do it for us??? 
> 
> :-)
> 
> Grant NQ5T
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] SignaLink and K3

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

I found a similar situation.  My solution was to max the transmit audio 
(driver) from the SLUSB, the SLUSB RX/TX knobs to noon (room for fine tuning 
when needed) then adjust the line in level as described by Don.  That 
simplified setup, because there are three controls that essentially do the same 
time (driver, knob and Lin IN/Mic).

You may find that there are some TX audio artifacts (a weak tone in the 
neighborhood of 2300 Hz), because of poor power supply filtering in the SLUSB.  
It is noticed in mine when I run remote (voice through the SLUSB), but its VERY 
low level.  It is fixable, I can get you a link to more data if you wish.  The 
simple mods also reduce the audio noise floor for weak signal work (one of my 
next projects).

I further found that running LIN OUT at 001 then adjusting the SLUSB driver to 
the LEAST amount of usable audio for decodes showed consistently better decodes 
than beating it to death (or is that deaf) with way too much audio drive.  
You'll have to play with it to find your station sweet spot.  Least is best.

You do NOT want the soundcard AGC to swamp (block) from strong signals for 
modes like PSK (making the weaker stations not decodable).  So you have to find 
the least audio, but give adequate drive to avoid this.

Hint:  When watching the waterfalls for PSK, if you see 'shadows' on the signal 
of a station, either they are overdriving on transmit (common issue), or you 
are overdriving your sound card.

73 es Merry Christmas,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Dec 13, 2014, at 3:04 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> If you are using the MIC input on the K3, then that statement in the 
> SignaLink document is correct, but if you likely have the SignaLink connected 
> to the K3 LINE IN jack, and the level is too low.  Line level is about 5 to 
> 10 times the audio voltage of mic level.  Sooo --
> 
> Set that jumper for high level audio, then:
> Put the K3 in TX TEST and set your software application to transmit.
> Adjust the audio level controls and possibly the K3 LINE IN level so you have 
> 4 bars displayed on the K3 ALC meter with the 5th bar blinking.  Leave the 
> audio controls set that way.
> Adjust the desired power output level with the K3 power control - ignore the 
> advice usually given on the internet and interface help files to set power at 
> max and adjust the audio to achieve the desired power - that will not work 
> well with the K3 (or the K2 and KX3 either).
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 12/13/2014 5:47 PM, Bill Turner wrote:
>> I am installing a new SignaLink USB device and have it all working
>> fine except for low output from the K3.  I can only get about 10 watts
>> out even with the Windows volume controls set as the factory suggests,
>> and with fldigi output set to maximum. The K3 line in gain is also set
>> to max.
>> 
>> I know there is a jumper in the SignaLink USB to increase drive but
>> before I do that I'm wondering if what I'm seeing is normal. The
>> SignaLink USB manual says the default drive setting is OK for most
>> radios, so I'm wondering if the K3 is an exception or if I should keep
>> fiddling with the configuration.
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Ultimate System

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

But on the day it FINALLY arrives oh happy day!

Great memories, but things always look better when looking back.  ;o)

Just like I don't want to chop firewood to cook a meal or heat the house...  
I'm not in as good shape but conveniences leave more time to do fun things and 
the extra padding is insulation.  ;o)

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Dec 8, 2014, at 2:06 PM, Richard Solomon  wrote:
> 
> How about waiting 3 years for the card for a new one from Box 88 !!
> 
> 73 es HH, Dick, W1KSZ
> 
> 
>> On 12/8/2014 2:53 PM, Jim Miller wrote:
>> But, The memories are great.  73, Jim KG0KP
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Ultimate System

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Let's see... You're supporting making the contact, hand writing in the log 
details, taking the time to fill out, mail then wait for a returning QSL card 
all to fill your day.

I submit that electronic logging, with automatic upload to services like LOTW, 
Clublog, QRZ and getting a near immediate return confirmation results in one 
huge benefit... I can get back to operating quicker to make more contacts (be 
it DX, a contest or a ragchew).  It's simply a more efficient use of time, 
sometimes in places where time and numbers matter (like contests).  It allows 
me to do more of what I want to do, operate.

I also use a remotely controlled station, automatic antenna tuner and antenna 
switch and an instant on amplifier.  I started with much less and I enjoy the 
reduced load on me so I can focus on different things and enjoy them more.  I 
know I can manage with less but have no desire to return to my earlier stations.

I look at it as combining my interests (and toys like computers, networks, 
radios) into ways that make things both complex to set up (any modern radio), 
but easier to use once that is completed.  It has allowed me to do some super 
cool things such as having my morning cuppa while watching the sunrise on an 
Alaskan volcano while participating in the local 'old guy' net at home, several 
thousand miles away, thanks to the new technology I use.  (I bluetooth audio to 
a laptop or iOS device and use the remote control features of my home station 
from the same device.)  I can go back to old school, but at what cost in this 
example?

In fairness, the 'new' method of logging and QSL isn't as elegant or personal 
as receiving a hand written card, akin to texting instead of mail or a phone 
call compared to email.  I get that.  But with the limited time we have in this 
place, I'll take the fun over the tedious.  I'll leave the personal touches for 
the contact itself and hopefully recontact that station on several band/modes 
to develop a relationship over time.

73 es Happy Christmas,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Dec 8, 2014, at 5:17 AM, G4GNX  wrote:
> 
> Stan.
> 
> I felt the same way, having returned to Ham Radio after 20 years away (shame 
> on me!!!).
> 
> I still feel the same way in some circumstances and I still hand write my 
> QSOs and transfer to a computer log later. One reason for this is that I 
> don't believe in using one media to prop-up another. i.e. The Internet to 
> prop-up Ham Radio. Ham Radio is quite capable of standing on its own two 
> feet, but it takes some work on our part. This seems to be part of the 
> problem - the World is getting lazy. However, as in all things, progress must 
> be made and I truly welcome such enhancements as DSP, high quality filters, 
> transistors replacing tubes and my one major indulgence - an auto-tuner 
> (apart from the one in my K3).
> 
> I suppose that if all of this extra 'stuff' had been available in the very 
> early days, we would all have accepted it as part of the scene and looked for 
> new challenges to occupy our time.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KPA500 power on 24/7

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Always on here, I use it remotely too.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Nov 17, 2014, at 10:08 AM, hsherriff  wrote:
> 
> Same here
> Harlan
> NC3C
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> 
>  Original message 
> 
> 
> K3, KPA500, KAT500, and P3 are on 24/7 most of the time unless we're 
> leaving for a day or two.  Works for me.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the 50th Running of the 2015 Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
> - 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 bricked by F/W upgrade attempt

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

This may sound stupid, but reboot the computer and try again.  It might not be 
the radio not understanding the data coming in the i/o port, but rather it may 
be the computer (driver) got hosed and isn't sending proper data streams.  Who 
among us hasn't had an OS go stupid?

Then keep it simple, attach to ONLY the radio directly (you did).  I also 
suggest that you do not have the computer attached to the radio during the 
(radio or computer) boot process because on occasion, the USB device reader 
(what is attaching?) may 'read' the device improperly and attach the incorrect 
driver.

If that doesn't work, then 'prove' that the interface cable is still good (test 
it).

With all the complexity of attaching various components (OS, firmware, 
hardware) together, it's a wonder any work at all.

You should be able to get it back to working without EEINT, once the firmware 
is reloaded.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Nov 16, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Randy Diddel  wrote:
> 
> As I stated. I have read the manua (RTFM)l and tried the EEINT proceedure
> stated there. It will NOT respond to a Parameter INIT.  It still says "MCU
> LD." I have tried all documented solutions to get it back right.  I realize
> that I would have to recalibrate or load original config file after but I
> cannot even get there
> 
> 73
> 
> K5RHD
> 
> /randy
> 
> On Sun, Nov 16, 2014 at 10:09 AM, Don Palmer 
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi hope this may help you if you go to page 43 of your owner’s manual.
>> 
>> Look for Parameter Initialization and see if that will help you.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Don
>> 
>> G6CMV
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power In Digital Modes

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

I would submit that if they're no good for QRO, they're no good for QRP as well 
(where every erg counts).  Buy then use quality materials, it matters.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Nov 11, 2014, at 12:02 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
> 
>   Save them for QRP--that's all they are good for.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 No RF output

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

It means TX Inh(ibit) has been activated.  Check your menu setting.

73,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Nov 9, 2014, at 10:14 AM, Gregg W6IZT  wrote:
> 
> I am getting 0 RF output from my K3 on all bands regardless of the commanded
> power level. Pressing the TX button results in -- where the SWR would
> normally be displayed.
> 
> Any suggestions or ideas on how to resolve this issue are greatly
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> Gregg w6izt
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] autotuner for K3 with AL-811 amp (KAT500 or other) / random wire antenna

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Same thing here except my doublet is a stealthy Extended Double Zepp cut for 80 
meters (340' long).  Works on all bands (6 countries on 160; 200+ countries on 
the other bands)... 100' of 450 ohm line, 4:1 common mode choke, some coax and 
the K line is happy.  I just wish the oaks were taller, 30' above dirt just 
isn't enough height.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Nov 6, 2014, at 7:29 PM, James Bennett  wrote:
> 
> John, 
> 
> Don's suggestion is for sure the way to go. My K3, KPA500, and KAT500 sit 
> next to each other on my desk. I run about ten feet of RG-8 to the outside 
> where I have my 4:1 balun, and then 110 feet of 450-ohm ladder line to my 
> doublet at the other end of my property.
> 
> Jim / W6JHB
> 
> Jim Bennett / W6JHB
> Folsom, CA
> 
>> On Nov 6, 2014, at 11:32 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> John,
>> 
>> Use the 15' coax, but make sure it is low loss RG-8 size coax and all should 
>> be well.
>> At HF, there will be little loss in that 15' run.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
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Re: [Elecraft] OK... I give up on what is happening...

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Since it is running via a serial port, is it possible that the software is 
overrunning the buffers?  Too much data, too fast?  If it were close, that 
would certainly cause an issue that could require a reset of the system.

Rick, WA6NHC

PS It ain't pretty, but I'm doing the happy dance, Tromelin at LAST!

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Nov 4, 2014, at 7:26 AM, rs500  wrote:
> 
> Dave, you are not alone.  I have observed the same issue on my K3.  I am
> running a Signalink and FLDigi.  Changing the Mode does seem to reverse the
> direction on the waterfall but then I no longer trust the frequency display.  
> What I have found that consistently solves the problem (until the next
> occurrence) is using the K3 Utility program to restore a saved
> configuration.  Unfortunately I need to close FLDigi in order for the
> utility program to connect to the K3.
> I have not definitively identified a set of events that causes the problem,
> but it seems reasonable that it is a communication problem on the serial
> port.  I already have a variety of ferrite beads on the serial port and
> other cables to the computer.  Good luck
> 
> Ron
> K2RAS
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/OK-I-give-up-on-what-is-happening-tp7594377p7594388.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 on SSB Mobile

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Like any great station, most of the budget should go into the antenna.  The 
Hustler will load and it might even radiate, but the resonators have low Q and 
are not very efficient.  I just gave mine away last week, I now use a Tarheel 
(screwdriver) on my truck.

If your budget insists on that choice, at least make double sure that is it as 
high as you can safely afford with everything bonded well to (and ON) the 
vehicle for the best efficiency.  If you get a screwdriver antenna, same rules 
but get the coil as high as you can and use a capacity hat instead of a tall 
whip.

Next you'll want to pay attention to how you power the radio.  Cigar lighters 
are notorious for noise because they are not well grounded and often have other 
devices (noise makers) on the same circuit.  Find a better power source, 
preferably connection directly to the battery (automotive self-resetting 
circuit breakers at the battery, fuses near the radio; BOTH leads to the 
battery AND both fused).  The battery will act as a HUGE capacitor, keeping a 
lot of noise out of the rig.

Once that is taken care of, you can set up your transmitter audio as you've 
been instructed and there are plenty of 'scopes out there to get accurate 
reports.  I might also cut the lows in the TX EQ which helps add more 'punch' 
but don't overdo that or it sounds like crap (pinched noise while breathing 
helium).

Don't forget that since it is a wider signal, SSB won't have near the energy 
you're used to (you'll need more power than you do on CW).

So it can be done.  The question (for you): is the time and frustration worth 
the fewer contacts you'll make (compared to a 100 watt mobile).  For me, life 
is too short for QRP but some folks thrive on it.  I'd seriously consider 
adding the KXPA with tuner into the mix.  Then you can consider one of the 
other larger amps...  ;o)

73 es GL,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)


> On Oct 30, 2014, at 8:26 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> After a half-century of CW only I am about, at last, to try SSB.  The rig is 
> a KX3 operating from my car, into a Hustler mast with 15 and 20 meter 
> resonators.  For the moment the power supply is the car's cigar lighter; and 
> the headset is Elecraft's standard-issue Heil, which I own but have never 
> used.  So, I am looking for suggestions and advice.
> 
> One specific question:  I do not have a 'scope or any other equipment with 
> which to look at the transmitted waveform.  I expect to do some practical 
> experimentation; but are there good starting points for the mic and audio 
> settings, and whatever else, in order to get the most effective and cleanest 
> signal?
> 
> Another:  Is SSB mobile on HF with 5 or 10 watts going to be practical, or 
> will it just be frustrating? The plan - now that my life affords the time for 
> it - is to put some rare counties in CO, NM, AZ and WY on the air.
> 
> Suggestions, ideas, comments, imperatives, opinions - all are most welcome.
> 
> Tnx,
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] Unhook *ALL* connections before Lightning storm

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Did you tell them to never try buying lottery tickets?  :-P

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Jul 14, 2014, at 5:19 PM, Keith Trinity WE6R  wrote:
> 
> Hi all, I work on K3's all day and would like to advise/remind folks that 
> lightning comes in through ANY path it pleases, not just the antenna.
> Time and time again folks say they unhooked their antenna but the lightning 
> took out the DSL modem, computer and K3 via the RS232 port!
> Anything connected is a potential path...
> Be safe! '73
> Keith WE6R
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in the US

The problem with the bow or slingshot is when (if) the projectile comes down.  

The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and doesn't have 
enough mass to pass through some branches or allow gravity to pull it down.  
Should it comes later, the risks of impalement can ruin the day.

The slingshot can improve over the arrow by increasing mass but can be equally 
dangerous.  Accurate shots are challenging.

Here is what I use (no pecuniary interest) and it solves those issues.
http://www.antennalaunchers.com/antlaunching.html 

It is simple to use, moderately safe (standard weapon rules about pointing etc) 
and accurate shots are simple.  I've used it to clear (and then some) 200' 
trees.

A weighted tennis ball (of a BRIGHT color so it can be seen) is simple to make 
an accurate shot; can pass through, then be pulled to earth by the increased 
mass.  If you clear the tree and want to shorten the flight path, simply 
touching the fishing line stops momentum immediately, the ball falls.

So there are several options, some safer than others, some more expensive and 
they all work.  What works best for you is the choice but please be safe and 
wear a hardhat.

I've also seen someone using the antenna launcher to shoot tennis balls for 
their dog to chase.  A 100 yard shot is pretty easily done.  By the time the 
(tiring) dog came back with the ball, the launcher was ready to shoot again.

73,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Jun 26, 2014, at 3:02 PM, Tony Estep  wrote:
> 
>> On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
>> 
>> I'm getting pretty good with the bow & arrow method
> 
> ===
> For years I used a slingshot, firing a weight attached to a spinning reel.
> Worked pretty good. But last year I bought one of these gadgets:
> http://www.kr4loairboss.com/
> 
> It has a certain gee-whiz factor that makes you feel like a naughty kid.
> 
> Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

You didn't mention your primary band (to determine how long it is).

I have an 80M EDZ (340' end to end of #14, 2- 5/8 wavelength center fed) in the 
oak trees.  It is too low but it is all I can mange (the trees rarely grow 
above 50' plus airport, HOA, CCR).  I have 230 countries (5 on 160) over the 
last few years with casual operating, so I guess it's doing ok.

Keep it out of the trees as much as possible, feed it with window/ladder line 
(much lower loss and helps transform the high impedances down) and expect 
tuning variances with seasons and weather (has to do with the feed and the 
plant moisture). Use a good common mode choke (every time, every antenna)!

If the trees are indeed parasitic, insulation won't affect that, but is still a 
good idea in pines because the needles are acidic (it'll react badly with the 
copper).  Squirrels are a bigger problem, being rodents they MUST chew to wear 
their teeth down.

Make it as high as you can get it then have fun.  Don't stress about straight 
lines and leave it sloppy enough that the wire will slide through the branches 
as they wave in the breeze (they never wave the same direction at the same 
time).  If you tension it, something will break.  I only anchor the far ends of 
the wire, everything else sags and is in motion, including the feed.  This is 
reason #2 for insulated wire, it's slicker so it slides through the branches 
better.

Although you didn't ask, if you really have real estate with tall trees and 
want to play, run the full wave 160 M loop through EZNEC and you'll see that 
165' per side  (assuming square) will allow you to have decent matches on ALL 
ham bands <30 Mhz.  Someday I'll have to try that one, hard to do on a quarter 
acre.  If you run a similar design based on say 80 meters, every other band is 
resonant; the 160 meter is good for all bands.  I don't know why.

Another option is vertically oriented loops at 90 deg angles  (because they 
have directivity) to each other with a remote antenna switch...  With a four 
port switch you could not only change directions, you could change polarity...  
Or figure out phasing lines to run them together, the phase choice would 'turn' 
the directivity...

Of course there is an absorbent factor with trees too, creating loss, another 
reason for max height, less tree cover up high.

Antenna can be fun!

73,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Jun 25, 2014, at 12:14 PM, Fred Townsend  wrote:
> 
> Richard:
> I have run a double Zepp hung from the trees as you suggest. If you can do it 
> I would get the antenna across the tops of the trees. 45' is too low for 80M 
> unless you are running NVIS in which case you are too high at 45'. Keep in 
> mind that pine trees are parasitic so keep the wire, even if insulated, away 
> from the trees. Inverted V works if you can't maintain 60'.
> 73,
> Fred, AE6QL
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
>> From: Rstafford12 
>> Sent: Jun 25, 2014 11:12 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp
>> 
>> I realize this is another somewhat not on topic post, but it is in regards 
>> to my KX1 and KX3. I have a mature pine forest; 60 -70 foot trees. How 
>> compromised would an EDZ be hung 45 feet up about four rows of trees in from 
>> the perimeter? No branches or needles inside the forest until 50 feet up. 
>> Richard KD0NPM
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] RM-11708 proposal to FCC threatens CW and digital modes

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

The First Amendment stops the government (in the US) from interfering with free 
expression.

This list is not owned by the government; the amendment doesn't apply.

Let's move on please.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Jun 23, 2014, at 10:03 AM, "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Your argument is basically free speech vs. the wishes of the forum owner.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 operation?

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

If the commentary announcing new firmware suggests a new mode, feature or 
setting, I'll read the release notes.  Most updates are tweaks, not new items, 
but I'm grateful for all of them.

I generally try to NOT read the user documentation (for the first day or so) 
and will see how far I can get by poking around the program or device.  That is 
one of my personal 'tests' on the user interface, which should make complex 
things, simple to the user.

However, in the case of the K line, eventually reading the documentation pays 
off because of the sheer complexity and number of choices available for 
personal preferences.  Elecraft still manages to keep things simple, bravo!

73,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Jun 14, 2014, at 9:35 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
> P.S. I usually do not read the actual user documentation before trying out 
> things though.  I need to get better at that.
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[Elecraft] Fwd: K2: OK to use a bypass cap on the key?

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Apparently I can't type this morning without more coffee...  sorry for the 
repeat, I didn't catch the typos...

Wouldn't it be of higher concern to keep (greatly reduce) the RF coming back 
into the shack first?  That would eliminate the need for bypassing the key and 
may help with your click issue.

What happens with lower power?  If there is no click and the key operates 
normally, that's a HUGE hint you need better RFI work.  

I'd start with copious applications of ferrites (or even coax coils) as a 
common mode choke although if it's like some shacks I've seen, improved 
housekeeping would be the first step on bands like 6M where stray capacitance 
makes a huge difference in functionality.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Rick Bates, WA6NHC" 
> Date: June 6, 2014 at 9:19:06 AM PDT
> To: Elecraft Reflector 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: OK to use a bypass cap on the key?
> 
> Wouldn't it be of higher concern to keep (greatly reduce) the RF out of the 
> shack first?  That would eliminate the need for bypassing the key and may 
> help with your click issue.
> 
> What happens with lower power?  It there is no click and the key operates 
> normally, that's a HUGE hint you need better RFI work.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: OK to use a bypass cap on the key?

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Wouldn't it be of higher concern to keep (greatly reduce) the RF out of the 
shack first?  That would eliminate the need for bypassing the key and may help 
with your click issue.

What happens with lower power?  It there is no click and the key operates 
normally, that's a HUGE hint you need better RFI work.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Jun 6, 2014, at 9:09 AM, w2bvh  wrote:
> 
> On my K2 Is it ok to put a 1 - 10 nF bypass cap across my straight key?
> 
> I've got a 6M KW amp and evidently rf was getting into the key line at power 
> levels over ~350 W and keeping the system keyed all the time.  Three turns on 
>  the keying wire (mini zip cord) through a split bead fixed it, but I'm 
> getting on air comments about key clicks.  I'm going to switch to RG174 on 
> the key and intend to add 1 - 10 nF across the key terminals, if its not 
> harmful to the K2.
> 
> 
> 73,
> Lenny W2BVH
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question 2 - remote power control

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

How are you controlling the amp?  I used the utility program (via TeamViewer 
when remote) and that works fine.  Occasionally they get out of sync, you have 
to exit the program, then restart it to be able to turn the power back on, but 
that isn't common.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On May 25, 2014, at 1:37 PM, Michael Walker  wrote:
> 
> I have just installed my KPA500 on my remote base and I noticed that it is
> possible to turn it off via the computer or via just dropping the AC power
> and not getting it to come back on.
> 
> This makes is sort of a challenge for remote operating.
> 
> Is this normal operation or did I miss something obvious.
> 
> 73 all
> 
> Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] Interfacing TS480 to KPA500

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Mmm, have to watch that greeting "Hi Jack" around an airport...  Might get you 
in trouble.

Using the KPA utility (or the remote server, haven't used it) works well for 
this, if you're running something like TeamViewer to control the home station 
computer (and then the radio).  That's what I do on the K line, everything is 
accessible on a laptop, iPad, iPhone, Nook (well you get the idea).  SUPER 
slick and I can even 'see' the P3 because I leave the web cam pointing at it 
before I leave (via Skype, same as the audio).  Pure nerd food.  ;o)

73 Mike, nice to see you on this group too,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On May 22, 2014, at 12:00 PM, Michael Walker  wrote:
> 
> Hi Jack
> 
> Thanks for the detailed reply.  Yep, I am aware of all the RS232 gotchas
> with the KRC2.  :)  I have mine wired to handle the handshaking as well.
> 
> Making the KPA500 a Passive listener should be just fine.  I can then also
> watch the amp on the RS232 port separately.
> 
> 73, Mike va3mw
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 2:54 PM, Jack Brindle  wrote:
>> 
>> Mike;
>> 
>> First, the KPA serial ports are _not_ pass-through. Each has a specific
>> purpose and don’t actually work together.
>> 
>> How you set up the XCVR serial port connection depends entirely on whether
>> there is a computer in the
>> situation or not, and whether that computer polls the radio for
>> information. Since this is a remote base, can we
>> assume that a computer is involved and it is getting info from the radio?
>> If so, then you need to set up the
>> KPA500 so that it simply eavesdrops on the conversation. You will need to
>> fabricate a Y adapter for this. In
>> the case of the KPA all signals can go through, but realistically you only
>> need pins 2, 3, 5 and (I believe) 8
>> connected. Pin 8 is the handshake pin for the TS480, and is needed to
>> allow the radio to send data on the
>> RS-232 port. It does not need to be connected to the KPA500 port, but if
>> it is the KPA will simply ignore it.
>> Note that the KPA does not make a connection to that pin, so if you set
>> the station up without a computer,
>> you will need to provide +12V for that signal to allow the TS480 to talk.
>> 
>> As the manual indicates on page 12, there are three menu items involved
>> with this situation. You will
>> need to set the RADIO item to SERIAL, then set the RS232 X item to the
>> appropriate data rate. Finally,
>> since the computer is polling the radio for data, set SER POLL to OFF. If
>> there is nothing doing the polling,
>> you will need to set this item to ON to allow the KPA to do this task.
>> 
>> With this setup, things should work just fine. But we aren’t finished, you
>> did mention a KRC2, so let’s discuss that.
>> 
>> I would suggest inserting the KRC2 in between the TS-480 and the KPA500.
>> Make sure that only pins 2, 3 and 5
>> go to the KRC2 ports. That pesky TS480 handshake signal should not go
>> through the KRC2 without making
>> changes inside the KRC2. What changes? Disconnect the W jumpers for the
>> handshake pins and then jumper
>> across the connector side of the pins so that the signal gets passed from
>> one DE9 to the other. Then set the
>> serial port data rate jumpers for the appropriate rate. The KRC2 can do
>> 4800, 9600 and 19200 bps with the V1.6
>> firmware. You probably want to run as fast as you can on the serial port,
>> which means 19200 bps.
>> You can then plug the serial port cables into their appropriate connectors
>> and try things out.
>> 
>> Be sure to check to make sure that pin 8 is the handshake pin needed for
>> the TS480. I think it is that pin, but
>> will need to check it. Also look at the KRC2 manual for the proper W
>> jumpers. I’ll also take a look and privately
>> email you what I come up with.
>> 
>> Your station should work quite well in this configuration. Good luck!
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Jack Brindle, W6FB
>> Elecraft Engineering
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 22, 2014, at 7:38 AM, Michael Walker  wrote:
>>> 
>>> All
>>> 
>>> My remote base runs on a TS480 and I will be adding a KPA500 to the mix.
>>> 
>>> In going over the documentation, I find that there is very little detail
>> on
>>> actually interfacing on the RS232 port.  From what little I can read, I
>> see
>>> it is as simple as plug it in and go, or am I missing something in the
>>> configuration.
>>> 
>>> Can I pass RS232 signal through the Amp or is it a passive listener and
>>> handles band changes.
>>> 
>>> I will also be using a KRC2 to change filters and antennas in the same
>>> solution.
>>> 
>>> Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] 270 foot (ish) Doublet & K3 ATU

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

I use a 104 meter (340') dipole (double extended Zepp for 75/80 meters); fed in 
the middle with 100' of 450 ohm window line on all bands.  In it's original 
configuration, I fed that with a 1:1 common mode choke (a DX Engineering balun, 
converting the feed to coax) into the K3.  The K3 tuner was happy almost 
anywhere except 160M (6:1 was the best it could do there, at the higher end).  
It loaded on 6M but I don't recommend it (expensive lesson).

I found that the length of the window line was not critical; adding 30' had 
zero effect (started with 70').

The coax portion of the feed should be as SHORT as possible, in my case it is 
currently about 10' (2.8 meters).  The losses are highest there and the extreme 
SWR makes it MUCH worse, keep it short; use the best stuff, not the cheap 
stuff.  Changing the length of the coax portion has a HUGE impact on where (or 
if) the system tunes; the window line, none.

The wires are strung over/through oak trees that vary in height from 30-40' 
(oaks just don't grow taller here).  Tuning changes with the seasons (fuel 
moisture content).  Although cut for the lower portion of 75 meters, because of 
the low height, it doesn't like the low end of the band so I'm going to add 
another 12 meters of wire to bring the resonant point down on the bottom of 80 
(should help with 160 too) since DX is more available on CW than phone.

Since I added the KAT500 (to use the KPA500 et al remotely), I found that a 4:1 
CMC gives me all bands, including 160 (3:1 so I don't run a lot of power).  
That one change alone has given me 5 new band mode countries, on 160.  I 
currently stand at 229 countries worked (all bands/modes) so it all seems to 
work pretty well.  Since I live in an HOA/CC&R infested neighborhood (a mistake 
of the most grievous nature), this stealth antenna is the best I can manage.  
It's hidden in plain sight in a common area that no one uses (and no one looks 
UP anyway, human nature).

Expect to play with the dimensions and feed systems to find your sweet spot(s).

73,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On May 15, 2014, at 12:22 PM, Iain G4SGX  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Does anyone use a 270 foot doublet with the K3 ATU?
> 
> Is there a combination of feeder type/length and Balun type & coax length 
> that tunes OK on 160-10?
> 
> I am currently thinking a 1:1 balun and 33 foot of 300 ohm feeder.
> 
> Obviously the coax length should be short but too short may cause rfi probs, 
> but then I only run 100W.
> 
> Iain G4SGX
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Re: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 (fredem)

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

It is the same regardless of mode.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On May 3, 2014, at 10:40 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> Yes. But as I noted, if you're making 5 minute transmissions, the other guy 
> is probably bored to death. I would be.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Beta code 'ghost' issue; Data A revisited

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

Not with the new beta P3 code...

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Apr 27, 2014, at 12:07 PM, "Joe Subich, W4TV"  wrote:
> 
> 
> In AFSK A/FSK D the transmit/VFO B cursor is 400 Hz.
> 
> 73,
> 
>   ... Joe, W4TV
> 
> 
>> On 4/27/2014 12:54 PM, Ken Kontor via Elecraft wrote:
>> I agree with Rick's comments above. I use N1MM for FSK RTTY. I have an extra 
>> RX window set up to receive signals from VFO B in split mode so I can tell 
>> who the last worked station was while I copy the DX with VFO A. With a 
>> narrow 400 hz bandwidth and 10 khz span on my P3 I can easily tune from 
>> station to station centering his tones in the narrow P3 curser. A 2.7 KHz 
>> curser pattern on the P3 would cover up most of what I want to see. I for 
>> one would not upgrade my P3 software until this issue is corrected. A narrow 
>> 400 Hz curser is necessary for both VFO A and B in RTTY as far as I am 
>> concerned.
>> 
>> 73, Ken - W8KEN
>> On Sunday, April 27, 2014 3:34 AM, "Rick Bates, WA6NHC" 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> This evening as I was listening to a moderately weak station on 30 meters 
>> CW.  I noticed that the P3 display showed a wide (+-.75 KHz from center) 
>> pulse pattern centered on the frequency I was on.  I also noted that there 
>> was a strong (XE2, not that it matters) almost 3 KHz down.  The P3 pattern 
>> matched the CW pulses of that station down band.  I wasn't hearing anything 
>> but the weak station on the K3 (well done Elecraft).
>> 
>> So I wondered, could this anomaly be caused by the new noise blanker 
>> algorithm?  Yup.  I turned off the P3 NB function (set at 12) and the 
>> anomaly went away.
>> 
>> So if you're seeing something on the P3 that isn't there, turn off the NB 
>> function and watch again.
>> 
>> On the subject of the Data A red pattern width change; my normal set up for 
>> working RTTY/PSK (AFSK, Data A mode) split was:
>> 
>> Narrow and recenter the filter to hear only the station I want to work 
>> (sound card doesn't get hosed);
>> sync the two VFOs (double tap; copy everything over to B);
>> go split;
>> move the VFO B (now with the matching pattern of VFO A RX, in red) on top of 
>> the last station worked, fine tune by listening to the sub-RX if desired.
>> 
>> The former (pre-beta) pattern showed the same narrowed width as the main RX 
>> (shows the slot my audio tones would go out), which made it easy to spot the 
>> (TX) VFO B on or near the last station worked, simply line up their trace 
>> under the red swath.  This makes for a nice quick attack mode.
>> 
>> Having the wider red pattern (2.7 KHz) makes this much harder now since I 
>> can't 'see' where my tones are going to be.  If given a vote, I like the old 
>> way better if the P3 can't read the filter width and match the display to 
>> the actual.  At least I had a ballpark idea where my tones would go.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Rick, WA6NHC
>> 
>> iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)
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[Elecraft] P3 Beta code 'ghost' issue; Data A revisited

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

This evening as I was listening to a moderately weak station on 30 meters CW.  
I noticed that the P3 display showed a wide (+-.75 KHz from center) pulse 
pattern centered on the frequency I was on.  I also noted that there was a 
strong (XE2, not that it matters) almost 3 KHz down.  The P3 pattern matched 
the CW pulses of that station down band.  I wasn't hearing anything but the 
weak station on the K3 (well done Elecraft).

So I wondered, could this anomaly be caused by the new noise blanker algorithm? 
 Yup.  I turned off the P3 NB function (set at 12) and the anomaly went away.

So if you're seeing something on the P3 that isn't there, turn off the NB 
function and watch again.

On the subject of the Data A red pattern width change; my normal set up for 
working RTTY/PSK (AFSK, Data A mode) split was:

Narrow and recenter the filter to hear only the station I want to work (sound 
card doesn't get hosed);
sync the two VFOs (double tap; copy everything over to B);
go split;
move the VFO B (now with the matching pattern of VFO A RX, in red) on top of 
the last station worked, fine tune by listening to the sub-RX if desired.

The former (pre-beta) pattern showed the same narrowed width as the main RX 
(shows the slot my audio tones would go out), which made it easy to spot the 
(TX) VFO B on or near the last station worked, simply line up their trace under 
the red swath.  This makes for a nice quick attack mode.

Having the wider red pattern (2.7 KHz) makes this much harder now since I can't 
'see' where my tones are going to be.  If given a vote, I like the old way 
better if the P3 can't read the filter width and match the display to the 
actual.  At least I had a ballpark idea where my tones would go.

73,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft compatible WX station

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

I use an AccuRite wireless with no computer interface or radio interference.  I 
got it at WalMart.  Prices vary accordingly to features, this one has a rain 
cup for ~US$100 total.  Check the hardware department (odd place, but there it 
is).

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Mar 1, 2014, at 12:07 PM, W8OV  wrote:
> 
> I've used a Davis Vantage Pro2 wireless weather station for several years.  
> The only problem it has had with my K3 is that occasionally, when I'm on 
> certain bands, the weather station will stop displaying the outside 
> temperature while I transmit, though it resumes withing a few seconds.  I 
> also use software that sends the weather data through the computer to a 
> couple of places on the web and, again occasionally, that transmission will 
> stop and I have to restart the software to restart the transmission to the 
> web.  This does not happen every time I'm on the air.  However, so far, no 
> known problems in the other direction.
> 
> Dave W8OV
> 
> 
>> On 3/1/2014 1:24 PM, Mike KS7D wrote:
>> I would like to get a good wireless weather station that would be compatible 
>> with amateur radio use - no interference to Elecraft K2, K3 or KX3 radios. I 
>> would very much appreciate the thoughts of those on this list who have 
>> experience with wireless WX stations for home use.
>> 
>> My previous WX station, La Cross Technology WS-2010 has died. It worked 
>> fine, but didn't last long. I want a better quality WX station this time.
>> 
>> I apologize for the bandwidth for an issue that is only an indirect Elecraft 
>> radio issue. Please respond off-list if you prefer.
>> 
>> Mike, ks7d
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> www.ks7d.com
>> @ks7d
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