RE: [Elecraft] OT - Solar panel output
Hi Actually 33 watts is more than enough to power a QRP K2. You only transmit about 25 % of the time and receive the rest so running a K2 at 10 watts will only require about 15 watts to keep the battery charged. For a 100 watt K2 you will need about 75 watts of panels and about a 35 amp hour battery to run continuously. I know this works because this is the setup one of the operators used on field day here in Tyler Texas a couple of years ago. The panel was set up out in a field about 100 ft away from the rig. The controller was one of my Solar Controller Kits and the battery was a 35 amp hour gel cell like used on electric wheel chairs. We operated night and day CW at 75 watts out. The battery kept us running all night and the solar panel had the battery back fully recharged by mid day. Don Brown KD5NDB > Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 10:34:21 -0700> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: > [Elecraft] OT - Solar panel output> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; > Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> CC: > > > --- Ken Kopp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:> > > > We have an RV with 12A of solar panels on the roof.> > They charge a bank > of 4 golf cart batteries with a> > total> > capacity of 440 AH> > > > It's > surprising the amount of energy they will> > deliver,> > even on a rainy day. > Nothing near the 12A, but> > still> > several amps.> > > > We have the > experience to back this up ... 5 years> > of six (winter) months each on the > Oregon coast.> > (:-))> > > > Didn't want the idea that solar panels are > useless> > in> > the rain or a on a cloudy day to get started.> > > > 73! Ken > Kopp - K0PP> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]> 12 AMPS of solar cells is a lot bigger than > the 33> watt unit that we were discussing. 12 amps X 14 volts> is 168 watts. > The 33 watt unit is less than 2.5 amps,> barely enough to run a transceiver > continuously during> good sunlight.> > > Willis 'Cookie' Cooke > K5EWJ> > ___> Elecraft mailing list> Post > to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: > http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: > http://www.elecraft.com___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solar Controller Kits for Sale
Hi I am kitting another batch of my Solar Controller Kits. There are two versions, a high power and a low power. The low power is good for about 40 watts or about 2.5-3 amps and sells for $20. The high power version can handle up to 200 watts or about 15 amps and sells for $30. The kits include a circuit board and all parts required to build the controller. You will need to supply a box to mount the controller into or install it into your battery box. This controller works with a flooded lead acid or sealed lead acid (gel cell) with a current rating of 2 to 100 amp hours. Solar panels of 3 to 40 watts for the low power and 2 to 200 watts for the high power can be used with these controllers. The controller is an analog design and does not generate any RF or switching noise. Order from : Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 Check or MO only Thanks Don___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 power cable
Hi The K3 has a PowerPole connector on the back of the radio and includes a kit to build up a 5 ft cable to plug into the radio. The power supply end is not supplied so you will need to connect the bare wires to your power supply or supply your own connector for your power supply. The cable kit includes 5 ft of #12 red/black zip cord, a set of red and black PowerPole connectors with terminal pins and instructions. The instructions recommend soldering the pins. Don Brown KD5NDB > Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 19:37:47 +0400> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: > elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power cable> > Does the K3 > come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at > least in the > kit?> Tnx> Tom> CX7TT> ___> > Elecraft mailing list> Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> You must be a > subscriber to post to the list.> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub > etc.):> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: > http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: > http://www.elecraft.com___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3/10 For Sale or Trade
Hi I also found the black 4-40 1/4 screws to be short. I had 8-10 of the 3/16 black pan heads, 5 or 6 of the black flatheads and 5 or 6 silver 4-40 1/4 left over. I also had plenty of lockwashers. I just used three of the silver 4-40 1/4 on the transistors in place of the black screws. I think Elecraft needs to increase the number on these 1/4 inch screws and maybe include a couple of spares like the rest of the black hardware. The case screws are the ones that tend to get lost when options or mods are installed so a few extra is always nice. Don Brown KD5NDB > Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 09:23:35 -0700> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: > elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/10 For Sale or Trade> > > > > Luther B. Phillips wrote:> > > > Only deviation from instructions was the > use > > of 2 zinc pan-head screws to secure the output transistors to the > bottom > > panel. (was short two black screws)> > > I did the same when > building mine, and so did a couple of other people> judging by a couple of > recent posts on the Zerobeat K3 forum. I wonder how> common this is, and > whether Elecraft has actually miscalculated the number> of screws required?> > > -> Julian, G4ILO K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392> G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com> > Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf> -- > View this message in context: > http://www.nabble.com/K3-10-For-Sale-or-Trade-tp16080516p16080801.html> Sent > from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.> > > ___> Elecraft mailing list> Post > to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: > http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: > http://www.elecraft.com___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] wattmeter calibration
Hi Same here. I also ran out of range with a setting of 30. I usually use a OHR WM2 and the OHR 100 watt dummy load modified with a 20 db pad output. However the K3 seems to work fine and the internal wattmeter is accurate at 100 watts Don Brown KD5NDB > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: Re: > [Elecraft] wattmeter calibration> Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 10:34:30 -0400> CC: > > > Todd brings up a good point. I ran out of range while calibrating at the > 5W > and 50W level.. I got pretty close but ran out of adjustable range.> > > Also, I am confused as to what is happening with the RF Gain Calibration > > procedure. The routine calls for setting power level at a pre-set level > and > running through the bands. But how is the value adjusted and saved ? > And if > TUNE is depressed later, are the saved values affected? Or, is it > the fact > that the RF Gain procedure is conducted while in CONFIG that the > those > settings are saved? It's just a very strange procedure and I don't > > understand how a relationship is established between the displayed power and > > RF Gain setting during setup. Can anyone explain? Tnx!> > Paul, W9AC> > > > - Original Message - > From: "Todd Ruby" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> To: > > Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 10:09 AM> Subject: > [Elecraft] wattmeter calibration> > > >I finished assembly except for PA last > week and went through the > >calibration sequences. I am not able to have the > wattmeter on the K3 match > >the output reading on the Bird wattmeter. Any > suggestions?> >> >> >> >> > 73> > de> > todd> > > WB2ZAB___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 build report
Hi This seems the thing to do so here it is: The K3 was ordered on 8/17/2007 with a deposit Basic K3/100 2.8kHz 8 pole, 400Hz 8 pole, general coverage, FM Shipped 3/7/08 arrived at home QTH 3/13/08 by UPS S/N 0575 K3/10 build time four hours. Calibration and tinkering with menus 1 hour. Add KPA3 1 hour check out and calibration of KPA3 0.5 hr Total 6.5 hours Everything worked except I made one mistake mounting the standoffs for the front panel shield on the wrong side of the board. Easy fix required removing the front panel reversing the hardware and reinstalling the front panel. I did not realize the problem until I needed to install the bottom cover. I had one other problem with audio feedback when turning the AF gain up more than half way. Corrected problem by changing AF gain in Config menu to LO (it was set to HI) No other problems and I have to say the radio is a beautiful work of engineering both electronic and mechanical. Those of you waiting on yours or on the fence about buying one just hang in there or make the plunge. You won' be sorry. I have built everything Elecraft makes multiple times and the K3 is the easiest to assemble radio kit I have built even though it is the most complex electronicly Thanks Don BrownKD5NDB___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 AGC/S Meter
Hi This is usually caused by the 8 volt regulator output on the low side of its tolerance. Check the 8 volt supply if it is low say around 7.5 volts ask support to send you a replacement. In the mean time just go ahead with the build the agc and S meter are finalized later in the alignment. Don Brown KD5NDB > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 > 08:36:55 -0400> CC: > Subject: [Elecraft] K2 AGC/S Meter> > Building K2 S/N > 6430 and at page 48, AGC and S meter alignment. I can only> get a maximum of > 3.60V from the pin 5 of U2 with R1 set at its ccw limit.> Additionally, for S > meter alignment, both CAL S LO and S HI I am not seeing> the LEDs illuminate > at all with either dot or bar settings. All other tests> up to this point > have worked as described. Any thoughts on where to look?> > > > Thanks,> > > > > Tim> > KK9T___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KUSB - Vista Issues
Hi I don't have my K3 yet but I have had a problem like this with digital camera firmware update. The problem was the Vista firewall. I had to turn off the firewall to get it to work. Anyway it may be worth a try Don Brown KD5NDB > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 > 10:35:03 +1100> Subject: [Elecraft] KUSB - Vista Issues> > Hi All,> > Just > installed a KUSB to run my K3, but it doesn't seem to want to install > > correctly under Vista.> > I've tried just plugging in the cable and letting > Vista install the drivers > automatically. I've also tried downloading the > drivers from prolific and > loading them manually, and finally I've also > tried installing the drivers > from the supplied disk.> > In each case I can > see the device in Device Manager, listed as 'Prolific > USB-to-Serial Comm > Port (Port 5)', but it shows the little yellow '!', and > it says that the > 'Device Cannot Start. (Code 10).> > The Driver version is listed under > 3.0.0.0 under the Driver Tab, which I > believe should be 2.0.2.8 ??> > Any > ideas what I'm doing wrong ??> > Cheers> > David, VK2NU > > > ___> Elecraft mailing list> Post > to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: > http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: > http://www.elecraft.com___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] My Katiegram
Hi This seems the thing to do so here it is: Got my Katiegram on my K3 shipping in about 10 days yesterday. The K3 was ordered on 8/17/2007 with a deposit Basic K3/100 2.8kHz 8 pole, 400Hz 8 pole, general coverage, FM Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Question for Optivisor users
Hi I have the #3 and #4 plates with the Optiloupe swing down on the left eye I use the #4 plate because of the slightly higher magnification but it only has about 12 inches of eye relief. Not really a problem for bench work except placing the soldering iron back into the stand is a little challenging. The #3 has better eye relief and if your vision is good you may like it better (at 60 years I need the extra magnification) I can easily read the values on 1206 size resistors with either plate. The Optiloupe is good to examine your work after installing the part. I have used the round magnifier with the fluorescent light but the Optivisor is much better and more comfortable to use. I sometimes forget I am wearing the Optivisor with it pushed up on my head. Looks dorky but it is there when I need it. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 > 06:27:37 +> CC: > Subject: [Elecraft] Question for Optivisor users> > I > know there are at least a couple of Optivisor users on the list. I wonder > which number visor plates you're using for SMD work? I just bought a visor > with a #3 plate. I preferred the magnification level of a #4 or #5, but the > focal distance was so short with them they seemed to defeat the purpose; I'm > 46 and can still see tiny parts pretty well if I get up a couple of inches > from them, which I had to do with a #4 plate in order to have it be in focus. > I also got an Optiloupe for it but haven't tried it yet. Just wondering if > anyone has any wisdom to share. Thank you.> > --> 73,> de Mike, KC0KBC> > ___> Elecraft mailing list> Post > to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: > http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: > http://www.elecraft.com___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] SMD video? (was: Mystery Mods)
Hi There are several videos at howardelectronics.com google them They also have a nice soldering station on close out for $79 So far everything I have bought from them is first class. If you only need to remove and replace one or two SMD devices the Chip-Quick removal method and the solder drag install method with the mini-wave soldering iron tip looks good. For real service work on a regular basis the hot air remove and drag method install would be a better way to go, but that requires more equipment and cash outlay. Look at the videos to see what I am talking about. I just bought the JBC DI3000 kit and this is by far the best soldering equipment I have ever seen or used but it is extremely pricey. I can only justify because I am in the business of SMD board design and assembly of prototypes. This thing is the most powerful and controllable iron I have ever used. It heats to temp in 2 seconds and you can change tips an be soldering again in 10 seconds. The smallest tips can solder something as small as a SMD cap and then solder two copper penny's together then back to SMD's without adjusting the iron. When you place the iron on the stand the iron goes to sleep at a low temp then when you pick up the iron it is back to the set temp before you can wipe the tip. Don BrownKD5NDB No affiliation just a customer> > Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 15:26:28 -0800> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: > elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: [Elecraft] SMD video? (was: Mystery Mods)> > > > Any videos out there showing nice closeups of simple/safe/inexpensive> > techniques to solder SMD? Many (most?) of us have zip experience with the> > little buggers.> > 73,> Barry N1EU> > > wb8yqj wrote:> > > > I have a pair of > 15 watt Radio Shack grounded tip IC> > soldering irons and some old tips. > I'll file the old> > tips small and flat.> > -- > View this message in > context: > http://www.nabble.com/K3-hardware---The-Mystery-Mods--tp15725030p15726020.html> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.> > > ___> Elecraft mailing list> Post > to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: > http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: > http://www.elecraft.com___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 lid with KAT2
Hi The K2 lid with KAT2 is sold Thanks ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 lid with KAT2 for Sale, Solar controllers
Hi I have a K2 lid wired, with speaker and KAT2 antenna tuner. I no longer have a K2 (K3 on order) so I no longer need this. For sale at $150 shipped con US I also will also be kitting another batch of my Solar Controller Kits. There are two versions, a high power and a low power. The low power is good for about 40 watts or about 2.5-3 amps and sells for $20. The high power version can handle up to 200 watts or about 15 amps and sells for $30. The kits include a circuit board and all parts required to build the controller. You will need to supply a box to mount the controller into or install into your battery box. The battery needs to be a flooded lead acid or sealed lead acid with a current rating of 2 to 100 amp hours. The solar panels of 3 to 40 watts for the low power and 2 to 200 watts for the high power can be used with these controllers. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS K2 QRP lid with speaker and KAT2 installed
Hi I have an extra QRP lid for a K2 with a wired speaker and assembled KAT2 20 watt antenna tuner installed. This is new never used, built for sale. $160 plus shipping. Thanks Don Brown ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KAT100-1 conversion
Hi The conversion kit includes the front and rear panels punched and silkscreened. The rest of the panels and hardware comes in the EC2 kit Don Brown KD5NDB > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 > 16:11:27 -0600> Subject: [Elecraft] KAT100-1 conversion> > OK, thanks to > everyone for you replies.> > Looks like I'll be building the K2 with all > internal options.> > I'll build the KPA100 and the KAT100 into an EC2 > enclosure.> > Brings up the next question !> > I see the panels on the web > site to convert the> KAT100-1 to the KAT100-2> > What I don't see are the > side panels needed. Does the conversion kit > include the taller side panels > ??> > Thanks again and everyone have a great weekend.> > 73 Jerry N0JRN > > > ___> Elecraft mailing list> Post > to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: > http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: > http://www.elecraft.com___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 and or K2 for sale
Hi All I still have a Fully loaded assembled K2/100 for sale. This radio is new built for sale and consists of the following: K2 - radio KSB2 - sideband adapter 2.6KhzKAF2 - Audio filterKNB2 - noise blankerK160RX - 160 meter Receive antenna inputKPA100 - 100 watt amplifierQRP Lid with KAT2 - 20 watt antenna tunerAlso includes the VCO shield mod kit installed in the K2 and all other current mods This radio could be used as is or built up as a K2 pair by purchasing the KIO2 and EC2 and mounting the KPA100 in the EC2 and installing the QRP lid on the K2 or you could just swap the lids for QRO or QRP operation I have built all of the Elecraft products many times. This is the 16th K2 I have built including Eric and Wayne's personal K2's that you see at all of the hamfests. $1400 plus shipping for all above Check Or money order only. $1250 plus shipping for K2/100 only (no QRP lid or antenna tuner) $1050 plus shipping for QRP version (no KPA100) Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] For sale K2/100
Hi All I have a Fully loaded assembled K2/100 for sale. This radio is new built for sale and consists of the following: K2 - radio s/n 5363KSSB - sideband adapter 2.6KhzKAF2 - Audio filterKNB2 - noise blankerK160RX - 160 meter Receive antenna inputKPA100 - 100 watt amplifierQRP Lid with KAT2 - 20 watt antenna tunerAlso includes the VCO shield mod kit installed in the K2 This radio could be built up as a K2 pair by purchasing a EC2 and mounting the KPA100 in the EC2 and installing the QRP lid on the K2or you could just swap the lids for QRO or QRP operation I have built all of the Elecraft products many times. This is the 16th K2 I gave built $1400 plus shipping for all above Check Or money order only. $1250 plus shipping for K2/100 only (no QRP lid or antenna tuner) $1050 plus shipping for QRP version (no KPA100)___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] For Sale 4 band KX1 with tuner
I have new assembled KX1 For sale with the following options: KX1 - Radio KXB3080 - 30 and 80 meter module upgrade for 4 bands KXAT1 - internal antenna tuner KXPD1 - paddle kit The price for all of the above from Elecraft is $522 I am selling for $500 plus shipping check or money order only Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft radios for sale
Hi All I have a Fully loaded assembled K2/100 for sale. This radio is new built for sale and consists of the following: K2 - radio s/n 5363KSSB - sideband adapter 2.6KhzKAF2 - Audio filterKNB2 - noise blankerK160RX - 160 meter Receive antenna inputKPA100 - 100 watt amplifierQRP Lid with KAT2 - 20 watt antenna tunerAlso includes the VCO shield mod kit installed in the K2 Includes the very rare Mountain-Ops TacPac carrying case in orange This radio could be built up as a K2 pair by purchasing a EC2 and mounting the KPA100 in the EC2 and installing the QRP lid on the K2 I have built all of the Elecraft products many times. This is the 16th K2 I gave built $1400 plus shipping for all above Check Or money order only. $1250 plus shipping for K2/100 only (no QRP lid or antenna tuner) $1050 plus shipping for QRP version (no KPA100) Note: the kit prices from Elecraft for the above is $1440 not including shipping, mod kits and Tec-Pac case I also have new assembled KX1 For sale with the following options: KX1 - Radio KXB3080 - 30 and 80 meter module upgrade for 4 bands KXAT1 - internal antenna tuner KXPD1 - paddle kit The price for all of the above from Elecraft is $522 I am selling for $500 plus shipping check or money order only Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] New K2/100 For Sale
Hi All I have a Fully loaded K2/100 for sale. This radio is new built for sale and consists of the following: K2 - radio 5000+ s/n KSSB - sideband adapter KAF2 - Audio filter KNB2 - noise blanker K160RX - 160 meter Receive antenna input KPA100 - 100 watt amplifier QRP Lid with KAT2 - 20 watt antenna tuner Also includes the VCO shield mod kit installed in the K2 Includes the very rare Mountain-Ops TacPac carrying case in orange This radio could be built up as a K2 pair by purchasing a EC2 and mounting the KPA100 in the EC2 and installing the QRP lid on the K2 I have built all of the Elecraft products many times. This is the 16th K2 I gave built $1600 including insured shipping con USA by UPS Check Or money order only Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB 19123 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 903 894 8353___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Anyone know this info about switching supplies?
Hi All I ran the engineering department at a semiconductor burn lab for some years and we had well over a thousand power supplies of analog, switchers and SCR pre-regulated designs. We even modified Hobart MIG welders into power supplies (0-60 volts up to 600 amps). It has been my experience that the switchers will fail in a no output mode most of the time. This makes sense because the usual failing part is the switching transistors. If one or more of them fail the primary fuse will usually blow. With the output fed from transformer secondary there will be no output voltage or low output even if the fuse does not blow because of the distorted waveform driving the transformer. Analog power supplies usually fail by going to the rail because the series pass transistor shorts and connects the raw supply to the output. This is why most high end analog power supplies have some kind of crowbar circuit on the output that shorts the output if it exceeds some set voltage. It is always possible that the regulator could fail or even the feedback circuit that sets the output voltage could fail and cause an overvoltage condition although this is very rare. A dirty pot or loose connection at the Kelvin jumpers can cause any supply to go to the rail. A crowbar circuit would be easy to add to any power supply. A power SCR, a few resistors, a zener and a fuse is all that is needed. Some of the power supply Mfg sold these as an outboard add on for their supplies.Don Brown KD5NDB > Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 09:35:11 -0600> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net> From: > [EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [Elecraft] Anyone know this info about switching > supplies?> > Folks:> > A local discussion has 'erupted' regarding switching > poser supplies and whether> they can fail in an UNregulated (e.g. high) > output voltage condition, or if> when they fail will they (almost) always > fail in a NO OUTPUT mode?> > I think this discussion may have been started as > a result of a subject here on> the reflector about overvoltage protection > (OVP), but it's managed to take on> a life of its own with respect to the > MODES in which a switching P/S > can/will fail.> > Anyone have enough real > experience to express their thoughts on this subject.> > Must admit... I have > no clue myself. I've 'heard' that most switchers fail in> the NO OUTPUT mode, > but this is strictly hearsay.> > Let's try to get several responses and the > let the subject drop before IT takes> on a life of its own on the reflector > and Eric has to step in... he's > busy enough> right now. > > 73,> > Tom > N0SS> > ___> Elecraft mailing > list> Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> You must be a subscriber to post to > the list.> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: > http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: > http://www.elecraft.com___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 AGC Threshold Adjustment
Hi This voltage will depend on the tolerance of the 8 volt regulator. If the 8 volt supply is on the low side of the tolerance then you will not be able to reach the 3.8 volts. However 3.75 should be close enough as this is just a ballpark adjustment. The final adjustment will be made later by turning the AGC on and off and adjusting for no change in the background noise. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: "Jim Stoneback" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 1:53 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 AGC Threshold Adjustment > Hi, > > When I built my K2/100 the threshold adjustment didn't go right, I turn > trimmer R1 full CCW to get 3.74v on pin5 of U2 (full CW pin 5 goes to > 2.6v). > This adjustment is supposed to swing U2 pin 5 fom from 4 to 8 v. I > checked > diode polarity, resistor values, everything but never did find the > problem. > > Now I'm building another K2 and have encountered exactly the same result. > Anybody got a clue? > > 73, > > Jim > Jim Stoneback > K4AXF > Drake SW8 > K2.ssb.100 sn 6194 > K2 sn 6263 (underway) > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2: C55 Adjustment
Hi I have a method that works well for me to adjust the power/SWR bridge. You will need to make up two additional dummy loads besides your 50 ohm. These need to be 25 ohms and 100 ohms. I used 2 50 ohm 2 watt MOS resistors mounted inside a PL239 connector wired in series for the 100 ohm and in parallel for the 25 ohm. For the kAT2 you will also need UHF to BNC adapters. After you do the procedure below from the manual set the forward power pot per the manual. Set the reverse power pot to about the same position as the forward pot. Now using about 2-3 watts with the 25 ohm load note the SWR reading. Now install the 100 ohm load and adjust the null in very small amounts until you get the same reading with both the 25 and 100 load. It does not matter what the reading is yet, just so it is the same. Once that is done adjust the reverse pot so the K2 displays 2.0:1 with either load. Now go back and check the power and SWR with the 50 ohm load. The SWR should be 1.0:1. If the power is off adjust the forward power pot to correct it and recheck the reverse again with the 25 and 100 ohm loads to make sure you still get 2.0:1. All of this will interact a little so you may need to go through it several times. Hope this helps Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "JT Croteau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 8:22 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2: C55 Adjustment > JT, > > Use a fully insulated tuning tool - both ends of the trimmer cap are > floating above ground, so you will see a lot of 'hand capacitance' > effects with a metallic screwdriver. If you can achieve a null below 9 > or 10, that is a normal low value. > > Tune slowly and you can obtain the null. If you have a high impedance > input analog reading meter, you can do it easier than the 'no tools' > manual method. Connect your meter from the hot side of R2 to ground and > tune the cap for a minimum reading - the null is easier to see on an > analog meter - just tune for the smallest voltage, then check the value > displayed on the K2 - if it is less than 10, all is good. > > If you cannot achieve a decent null, then you may have a significant > amount of residual inductance or capacitance in the KAT2 - usually due > to a non-operating relay. If that is the case, first inspect the > soldering on each of the relays (yes, you will have to lift some > inductors to do that) to be certain all pins are soldered. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K rig's longevity?
Hi I am an OEM supplier of controllers used in the waste water business. I have needed to do a redesign at least 3 or 4 times in the last 10 years because the MPU's or other IC's are fazed out and no longer made by the manufacture. They will usually spec a replacement but it is usually not pin or software compatible. This is the problem I see with all ham radios that use large scale IC's and or custom IC's. As long as the radio is working I don't see any problem with it lasting 15 to 35 years. But if you get a lightening hit or some part just fails you you be out of luck unless it is just some discrete part like a resistor, capacitor or transistor (even some transistors are no longer made although you can usually find something that will work) Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 6:52 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K rig's longevity? > That last one is a biggie. A lot of vintage gear survives on the air > because > it's easy to keep going. A lot of newer gear is relegated to the heap > because > you can't get parts, or the skills/tools/test gear/documentation needed to > fix > it are rare and expensive. > > Will it be possible to keep a K2 working 35 years? I don't see why not, > given > that almost all the parts are readily available, the documentation is wide > open and free, and expert assist is available from several sources. Plus > when > you get right down > to it, the hardware part isn't all that complicated because so much is > done > in software. > > 73 de Jim, N2EY > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] solution to sliding paddles
Hi My Profi II came with a chunk of this stuff. Anyway you might find it at a store that sells wood working tools or power tools. The mat is used to hold the work piece when using a router. Good luck Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: "David Ferrington, M0XDF" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 4:09 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] solution to sliding paddles > Anyone in the UK know where this stuff can be bought over here? > > Seems to me, you guys in the US have lots of good stuff just sitting > around > on shelves crying out to be purchased - over here, we have to search for > it > - rather like a trek up the Amazon to find a rare species! > > > That stuff is sold as shelf and drawer liner, and is available at just > > about everywhere kitchen supplies are sold. (Mine came from that mecca > > of > > capitalism, Wal-Mart.) > -- > The nice thing about standards is that there are so many of them to choose > from. -Andrew Tannenbaum, computer science professor (1944- ) > > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Waiting for my K3
Hi All I have been having a chuckle at all of the posts about the K3 shipping schedule. I started with Elecraft almost at the outset, maybe 6 months after the K2 started shipping. I have built around 16 K2's with all of the options, several K1's several KX1's, all of the transverters and all of the mini modules. I ordered my K3 with no reservations and complete trust in the guys at Elecraft. Elecraft has always delivered more than I expected and several times simply amazed me with the design and quality of their products. For those new to Elecraft and considering a K3 or any other Elecraft product go ahead and order it, You want be sorry. Foe those waiting on their K3 order just be patient. I ordered a Browning T-Bolt rifle back in November of last year and just got it this month. This was also a new product release and it had several production delays. It was worth the wait. Beautiful machining and even before it is broke in it makes ten shot groups in a dime size hole at 25 meters. The K3 will be worth the wait also. Don Brown KD5NDB K3 on order in the third production run. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 alignment confusion...
Hi To help any more we need some measurements in the transmitter. Did you build the RF probe and go through the troubleshooting section of the manual? What test equipment do you have. A scope would be nice but the RF probe/multimeter should be good enough to find the problem. Basically you start at the transmit mixer and check each stage following looking for a loss of signal. 70-80% of the time the problem is a toroid wound wrong or a toroid lead not tined properly and not making a good connection to its solder pad. I will be away from my computer for a week so I can not give you any more help but if you make the measurements in the manual someone on the reflector should be able to help you out. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 5:52 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 alignment confusion... Thank you Don. I got the peak at the earlier receiver stage. I have also gone back over the solder joints and all the relays three times since last night with nothing spotted. I'll comb through the toroid connex again... Adjusting the power with the front panel "power" control while in Tune makes no difference...and neither does moving L1 or L2. dk ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 alignment confusion...
Hi You must set the power control to about 1/2 scale and hold the tune button to get into tune mode then as you tune L1 and L2 as the power comes up readjust the power pot up or down a little to make the MPU re-measure the power. You should reach a point where L1 and L2 will peak. If this does not work and you got a peak when doing the receiver test earlier then you have a problem in the transmitter somewhere. Usually a bad solder joint on a toroid or a missed solder joint. Look at the relays it is easy to miss pin one on the relays as they look like feed throughs Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 11:13 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 alignment confusion... I am at the 40-meter transmitter alignment stage in Alignment and Test, Part III. It instructs me to "Place the K2 into tune mode and activate the built-in wattmeter by holding "TUNE". Using the alignment tool, adjust L1 for maximum output." And, do the same with L2, etc. etc. etc. Any direction would be appreciated. This build has checked out on every step to date...but I'm stumped. David King ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Proper Crimper
Hi I have a Paladin PAL 1645 tool that works on the small pins used in the speaker/counter probe connectors and also works on the larger pins used on the RF and 12V AUX connectors. I have had the tool for about 20 years. Digikey has them but they are now around $150 http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=PAL1645-ND I have a selection of crimp tools for just about any connector I run across that I have acquired over the last 30 years. Red blue yellow barrel terminals, D-sub, Molex, Amp, Anderson PP, crimp RF connectors. I do not like to solder a crimp pin if I can use the proper tool to crimp the pin. The tools are expensive but last a lifetime. There are also some tools with interchangeable die sets. The ratchet handle is about $100 and the die sets are about $60 each. You may run across a tool at a swap meet at a good price. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: "JT Croteau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 11:05 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Proper Crimper > What is the proper crimper to use for the female pins (E620022) used > in Elecraft kits? Mouser part number would be wonderful. > > Thanks > > -- > JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Part 1 - Setting AGC Threshold
Hi This voltage will depend on the tolerance of the 8 volt regulator. If the 8 volt supply is on the low side of the tolerance then you will not be able to reach the 3.8 volts. However 3.75 should be close enough as this is just a ballpark adjustment. The final adjustment will be made later by turning the AGC on and off and adjusting for no change in the background noise. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: "JT Croteau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Part 1 - Setting AGC Threshold > I am currently building K2 6233. > > Setting AGC Threshold - Manual states to turn R1 until pin 5 on U2 > reads 3.8V. However, I can't get the voltage this high. When I turn > R1, the voltage range is from 3.75V to 2.638V. > > Anyone have any ideas? > > Thanks > > -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KBT2 and solar power?
Hi The resistor and diode in the KBT2 limit the charge current to the internal battery but really do not prevent overcharging. If the input voltage to the K2 id about .2-.3 volts greater than the float charge value of the battery (13.8V) then all is well but if the voltage is higher you may overcharge the battery. The switch off point on my solar controller is set at 14.1 volts. With the duty cycle the average voltage to the battery will be about 13.8 volts or equal to the float charge rating of the battery. If the charge controller is connected to the K2 power input the diode drop in the battery charging circuit would lower the voltage switching point to the battery and the battery will not come up to a full charge. There are two ways to solve this problem. The best way is to install a fused connector on the back of the K2 that connects directly to the battery terminals. The solar controller would connect to this connector when using a solar panel to charge the battery. A power supply will still operate the K2 and charge the battery through the normal power input when not using the solar panel. The other way to solve the problem is to increase the controller switching point to about 14.5 volts by installing a 220K resistor at R9. I have not tried this but should work. The controller would plug directly into the K2 power connector to charge the battery. If you use this method then the controller should not be connected directly to the battery. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: "Peter Wollan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 7:33 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - KBT2 and solar power? > After using my K2 for its first Field Day, I now see a reason to install > the KBT2 built-in battery. But, I particularly liked using solar power > -- a 10-watt panel running through Don Brown's solar charge controller > to a gel-cell battery in parallel with the radio while operating. Worked > really well. Can something like that be done with the KBT2? > > The charge controller cuts off the solar panel when the battery gets to > about 14 volts, but it needs to be near the battery to sense the voltage > correctly. The solar panel can generate 20 volts at 1/2 amp -- what > happens if this particular charge controller is plugged in between the > K2+KBT2 and the solar panel? My guess is that the controller would keep > the voltage down to 14 volts, but would never see the battery as fully > charged. Do the diode and resistor in the KBT2 prevent overcharging? > It sounds less controlled than the KBT2 is designed for. Anyone have > experience with this? > > Peter N8MHD > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: ext battery suggestions?
Hi The following taken from the instructions for my Solar Controller Kit may be helpful. I have also used a 35 amp hour electric wheelchair gel cell battery and 2 35 watt solar panels with my controller on field day to run a K2/100 at about 75 watts out. This allowed operation for the full duration of the field day (day and night) without using any external power. Don Brown KD5NDB Sizing Your Solar Charging System The solar panel and battery needs to be matched to your system requirements. Although there is a wide range of specifications that will work, there are certain limits that must not be exceeded or damage to your battery may occur or at least may shorten its life. The first requirement is the amount of power in amp/hours you will need to operate your equipment. This is simply the average ampere draw times the number of hours you want to operate the equipment. This number will be the size of battery you will need. You should add 15 to 25% to this number to have some reserve capacity. Next you need to determine the size of your solar panel. Solar panels are rated in watts or sometimes current. If it is rated in current multiply by 14 volts (the fully charged battery terminal voltage) to get watts. Unless your panel can track the sun as the earth rotates you will need to figure on only about 4 hours of charging time near the rated output of the panel with several hours at reduced output. To make the math easy let's use four hours of sun per day. Divide the battery capacity by four to get the charging current. To convert to watts multiply by 14 volts. This is the size panel you will need. You can use a larger panel but you must not exceed the maximum charging current of the battery. This is about 1/3 of the batteries amp hour capacity. Just make sure the charge current is not higher than this number. OK let's design a system for the Elecraft K2. Suppose you want to operate for 4 hours per day. The K2 draws 250 ma on receive and about 2.5 amps on transmit. Let's assume 75% of the time is receiving and 25% is transmitting. So .25 amps times 4 hours times .75 is 0.75 amp/hours for receive. When transmitting assume about a 50% duty cycle so 2.5 amps times 4 hours times 25 times .50 is 1.25 amp/hours. Add the receive requirement to the transmit requirement and we get 2.0 amp/hours. Add 25% for a reserve and we get 2.5 amp/hours. The internal battery option for the K2 has a 2.9 amp/hour battery so lets design for it, as it is a little larger than we need in the above example. 2.9 amp/hours divided by four hours is 0.73 amps for our charging current. Multiply by 14 to get watts and we get 10.2 watts. The maximum charge current for this battery is 2.9 amps divided by 3 or 0.97 amps times 14 volts is 13.5 watts. A 10 watt panel would be perfect for this application. You could probably use a 15 watt panel safely because most of the panels will not reach their rated output unless they are exactly perpendicular to the sun at high noon at a mid latitude. The panels should be mounted facing south at an angle equal to your latitude so they get direct exposure to the sun for the most hours. Solar Panels are constant current devices. Constant current devices seem a little strange because most of us are familiar with constant voltage devices like batteries and power supplies. A constant current device like a solar panel will supply the same current into any load up to its open circuit voltage as long as the load current is equal to or greater than the current supplied by the device. For instance if a solar panel is capable of supplying 1 amp of current it will supply that same one amp into a short circuit, a 6 volt battery or a 12 volt battery. The current supplied is determined by the size of the cells in the panel and the amount of light falling on the panel. Panels will supply 18 to 30 volts open circuit determined by the number of cells in series. This is the reason for a controller. Without one the panel would keep supplying the charging current as long as the panel is in the light possibly overcharging the battery shorting its life. - Original Message - From: "J F" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft Discussion List" Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:20 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2: ext battery suggestions? > I use sealed GelCells Doug... > > These are the found in UPS units, usually in pairs. > The price is right I can get them for free when the > cells "fail". It seems that one battery will go well > before another. > > I use them in tandem with the internal battery for > QRP. Picked up a Solar panel to keep a charge on them, > but haven't deployed it yet. > > You could use motorcycle or mower batteries as well. > My preference is to stay away from anything that can > spill. > > Cheers, > Julius > n2wn > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
[Elecraft] Solar Controller Kits - Field Day
Hi Field Day is just around the corner, get those extra points by operating with solar power. I still have a quantity of my solar controller kits for sale. There are two versions. A low power version good up to 40 watts and a high power version for up to 200 watts. The controller kit is an analog design that does not generate any RF noise. The kit comes with a silk screened and solder masked fiberglass circuit board and all parts needed to build the controller. You will need to supply the box to mount it into. There are 6 pages of documentation and application notes. The controller is designed to work with almost any size solar panel up to the limits stated above. It is designed to work with 12 volt Sealed lead Acid (gel Cell) or flooded lead acid batteries only. It will not work with NiCad or NiMh batteries. (There is also a 6 volt version) The low power version will power a KX1, K1 or QRP K2 with a properly sized panel and battery (5-15 watts). The high power version will supply enough power for a K2/100. (50-150 watts) The controller kits are $20 for the low power version or $35 for two kits with one set of documentation. The high power version is $30 or $55 for two kits with one set of documentation. Check or money order only I do not accept credit cards or PayPal. US postage is included. Order from Don Brown 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 Harbor freight and Northern Tool usually have solar panels of various sizes at good prices. Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] solar controller kits
Hi I still have my solar controller kits for sale. There are two versions. A low power version good up to 40 watts and a high power version for up to 200 watts. The controller kit is an analog design that does not generate any RF noise. The kit comes with a silk screened and solder masked fiberglass circuit board and all parts needed to build the controller. You will need to supply the box to mount it into. There are 6 pages of documentation and application notes. The controller is designed to work with almost any size solar panel up to the limits stated above. It is designed to work with 12 volt Sealed lead Acid (gel Cell) or flooded lead acid batteries only. It will not work with NiCad or NiMh batteries. (There is also a 6 volt version) The controller kits are $20 for the low power version or $35 for two kits with one set of documentation. The high power version is $30 or $55 for two kits with one set of documentation. Check or money order only I do not accept credit cards or PayPal Order from Don Brown 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 Harbor freight and Northern Tool usually have solar panels of various sizes at good prices. Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
