Re: [Elecraft] Best Coax for Jumpers and Interconnections for SO2R operation with K3 & KX3

2016-02-24 Thread kd7gc
My suggestions are LMR400UF or Andrew FSJ1-50.  They are the only cables I
use for low-power jumpers in my shack.  Down stream from  my larger amps, I
use LMR600UF.  BTW, Tessco is a great place to buy all of your cable and
connector hardware.

 

Alan - N7MIT

 





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Re: [Elecraft] K5P and VP8STI

2016-01-23 Thread kd7gc
My good friend Stan, KE5EE, currently has 22 slots on the K5P.  On Thursday
he put up temporary inverted V's for both 60 and 160.  Within 12 hours, he
had worked K5P on 60 SSB and CW, as well as on 160 CW.  He doesn't have as
many slots with the VP8, but he hasn't really been chasing them.  He is
having fantastic success with his 3 element 80 meter M Square, as well as
the first of his DB42's, this one at 120 feet.  The bottom DB42 will be
going up shortly at 72 feet.  We are both looking forward to seeing how well
the stacked DB42's work.  The first of his 200 foot rotating towers will be
going up shortly with a stack of 6 three element SteppIrs, mostly for 17
meters thru 10 meters.  The rotating base has been fully installed, and the
8 foot by 8 foot building near the base of the tower is up and filled with
all of the control boards for the 6 stack.  K7NV and K1TO will be going to
Molino to build the tower, and SteppIr's techs and engineers, led by K7MX,
will be going there to assemble the yagis and tune them so that they can be
installed on the tower.  We both are anxious to see how the 6 stack will
perform.  The next 200 foot rotating tower will go up 2 or 3 months after
the SteppIr tower.  It will have 6 over 6 over 6 over 6 on 20, and 3 over 3
over 3 over 3 on 40.  The next step in the project will be the 4 square on
160 with several receive arrays.  The rest of the towers and antennas will
follow, including a stacked pair of 80's and a converted 2  element Optibeam
80 meter yagi for 60 meters.  So far, so good.  The only failure so far has
been the OR2800 rotator turning the 3 element 80.  High winds went thru one
night and totally destroyed the rotator.  Kurt will be bringing a new prop
pitch to replace the chewed-up OR2800.  I am really looking forward to
getting the remote capability installed.  I told Stan that I just might take
down my whole station and just use his via remote, HiHi.

 

Alan - N7MIT

 

 





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Re: [Elecraft] Whole house surge protector at the main breaker?

2016-01-06 Thread kd7gc
Square D Homeline is the cheapest of the Square D family of breakers.  You
are much better off using the Square D QO line.  They cost more, but they
are of much higher quality and reliability.  Ask your electrician or
electrical contractor what panel and breakers they have at home, and most
will use the QO line.

 

Alan - N7MIT

 

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Frontier ac2ev [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7612410...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 5:24 PM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Whole house surge protector at the main breaker?

 


I  use a Square D Homeline SurgeBreaker 
Model HOM2175SB 
As that's what fits my panel. Your panel may be different. You need to mount
it as close to the top as possible and it takes up two spots, so that it
covers both legs. 
It has a small neutral pigtail that also gets connected. 

I also use surge suppressors at each piece of electronic, home theater, TVs,
computers, etc. 

I have an L-Com unit on the telephone line coming into the house that is
grounded to the electrical service panel. The cable TV is also tied to
ground. 

My main shack computer goes through a protected UPS. 

Does it work? I hope so. All our services are underground but I've had one
strike to tree next to the house and one strike across the street. No
problems yet. 


73 
Don AC2EV 


> On Jan 6, 2016, at 18:43, [hidden email] wrote: 
> 
> [Elecraft] Whole house surge protector at the main breaker? 
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Re: [Elecraft] Marking cables.

2015-09-09 Thread kd7gc
In my experience, Scotch/3M ELECTRICAL TAPE 35 comes in many different
colors.  #33 has been replaced by Super 88, which is of course black.  I
have never found any #33 in colors other than black.  I generally buy cases
of each color available in #35, plus cases of Super 88.

 

Alan - N7MIT

 

 

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: k...@juno.com [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7607334...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2015 9:56 AM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Marking cables.

 

I've found the Brother "touch system to be inadequate.  The labels fade very
quickly in sunlight and fade (albeit much more slowly) indoors. 

For cables both inside and outside, I prefer coloured tape.  Scotch 33 is
available 
in standard colours for this purpose and can be purchased at a real hardware
store 
or "big box" retailer. 

To differentiate between cables, I make the first colour 1.5 times the width
of the 
roll and subsequent colours standard width. 

For example: cable 45 vs cable 54. 

Cable 45 would have a wide yellow band and a regular width green band. 

Cable 54 would have a wide green band and a regular width yellow band. 

I do not use black or grey tape as they do not contrast well against black
or grey 
cables. 

I do not use the same colour more than once so the colours can be
distinguished. 

My experience is that violet tape does not stand up to outdoor use as well
as the other colours. 

I use an arbitrary classification system so: Note that there are no same
colours 
on the same cable so there are no lines 22,33,44,55,66,77,88,99. 

1x series  Lines to HF antennas   

2x series  Lines between equipment (rig to antenna tuner, for example) 

3x series  Control lines rotor, remote antenna switch, remote
antenna tuner 

4x series  DC power 

5x series  AC power 

6x series  Grounds 

7x series  Lines to VHF-UHF antennas including repeaters 

8x series  not used yet 

9x series  not used yet 

Should you need additional lines for a specific classification, it is easy
to add 
a 3rd digit with another normal width piece of tape.  For example, another
HF 
antenna line could be line 125:   wide brown, normal red, normal green. 

Signal direction of travel can be indicated so: 
At the source, place the wide band right up to the connector, at the load,
place the narrow band(s) right up next to the connector. 

I made up a table to indicate what goes where: (partial example below) 
 CAPITALS indicate wide band. 

LINECOLOURS  FROM  TONOTES 
74  VIO - yelIC-7000  HF out   6m beam   8214 64' new
7-2013 

75  VIO - grnIC-7000 VHF out   2m beam   8214 56' new
8-2012 

I've found it important to date each iteration of the Line sheet to keep
track of 
changes like adding another antenna. 

In each junction-remote tuner box, there is a waterproofed line sheet copy. 
I used a laser printer and then spray the sheets with Krylon matte clear
until the 
paper is soaked and then let it hang-dry.  I've had good results with this.
Inkjet 
printing will run when it gets wet or even humid. 

For labeling outdoor objects, metal Dymo tape is hard to beat.  The catch is

that it is wildly expensive and takes vast amounts of money to purchase the
specially constructed die-cast metal lettering tool.  I spent half-vast sums
of money for mine at a hamfest.  The metallic tape comes (came?) in aluminum
and stainless steel.  UV proof and the adhesive is quite strong. 

For permanent writing, use a paint-based marker as the common "magic marker"
ink 
is subject to quickly fading. 

Markal (company name) makes a line of high-quality paint markers as does
Nissen.   
If you state permits it, the xylene-based paints work better than
water-based. 
Check with WW Grainger or Fastenal. 

These paint markers mark on metal quite well but will flake off anything
that 
flexes. 

The "Sharpie" metallic markers are suitable only for inside work.  I've not
had 
much experience with their "Sharpie" paint markers. 

72, 

Tim Colbert  K3HX 





 
Protect what matters 
Floods can happen anywhere. Learn your risk and find an agent today. 
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/55f0642926b364284f83st01duc
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Re: [Elecraft] Good time to buy Begali products

2015-01-24 Thread kd7gc
I currently have a Begali Magnetic Classic, and have ordered the 60th 
Aniversary special edition which is based on the Sculpture.  Mine is serial #72 
out of a total of 214 that will ever be built.  My friend Stan, KH6CG has 
serial #69.  My next paddle will be the Stradivarius.  I love the Begali line.

 

73

N7MIT

 

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Ken G Kopp [via Elecraft] 
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7597479...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2015 7:28 PM
To: kd7gc
Subject: OT: Good time to buy Begali products

 

On Jan 24, 2015 7:25 PM, "Ken G Kopp" <[hidden email]> wrote: 


> Jim 
> 
> Check the keys on N3ZN's website. 
> 
> I have one of his straight keys and one of his paddles.   Wonderful keys! 
> On Jan 24, 2015 7:20 PM, "Jim Lowman [hidden email] [KX3]" < 
> [hidden email]> wrote: 
> 
>> 
>> 
>> I recently became aware that the Euro has hit a ten-year low against the 
>> US dollar. 
>> Thus, if you've been wanting a Begali key or paddle, now is a good time 
>> to buy it. 
>> 
>> I'm looking at this beauty: 
>> 
>> http://www.i2rtf.com/html/sculpture_arrow.html
>> 
>> The only other straight key that I have is a Vibroplex. 
>> 
>> Just a heads-up for anyone who is interested. 
>> I have a Begali Sculpture paddle, and it's one of my favorites. 
>> Excellent craftsmanship! 
>> 
>> 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW 
>>  __._,_.___ 
>>   -- 
>> Posted by: Jim Lowman <[hidden email]> 
>> -- 
>> Reply via web post 
>> <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/KX3/conversations/messages/50721;_ylc=X3oDMTJybWo4dmJvBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzc0NTIwOTQ3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2MzEwOARtc2dJZAM1MDcyMQRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNycGx5BHN0aW1lAzE0MjIxNTI0Mjc-?act=reply
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>>  
>> (1) 
>> Visit Your Group 
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for specs for finger pieces for Begali Pearl

2014-12-02 Thread kd7gc
Just have him send an email to the factory asking for the info.  Otherwise,
he could get the measurements from his stock finger pieces.

 

73

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Millerhill [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7595383...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2014 9:08 AM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Looking for specs for finger pieces for Begali Pearl

 

I want to make some wood fingerpieces for a buddy of mine for his Pearl. I'm
looking for some measurements...especially screw size and hole spacing. 




Best 72/73 
Steve 

- 
Steve Roberts-W1SFR 
Sudbury, VT 
http://www.kx3helper.com
Stuff for Portable ops and Keys too 
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain
Wireless Society 
(802)779-7489 (cell) 









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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW decoder . . .

2014-12-01 Thread kd7gc
Begali paddles are more like jewelry than something so plain-jane and 
ubiquitous as a code key.  I send my CW via keyboard now, but I still want to 
have a number of Begali’s many models on my desk, even though I will probably 
hardly ever use them.  They are simply fantastic!

 

 

73

Alan/KD7GC

 

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Dauer, Edward [via Elecraft] 
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n759532...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 11:13 AM
To: kd7gc
Subject: K3 CW decoder . . .

 

FWIW, I agree 100% with Dale (below) and with some of the other comments 
in this thread, based on 57 years of 99.9% CW.  Specifically: 

Although I used a straight key for my novice year (in 1957) and a 
Vibroplex bug from then until about 10 years ago, I doubt that any of that 
learning helped my electronic fist when I started using electronic keyers 
like those in the K3 and the KX3.  Although I have been tempted by a 
Begali, I am hard pressed to explain to myself why I want one (which, 
truthfully, I do.) 

Forget the decoder.  Learn to copy Morse from its sound.  If you are 
serious about DXing, an experienced brain will be a vastly better 
discriminator of the almost-identical sounds in a typical non-³up² pile-up 
than any practical decoder could be, and probably so in any heavy QRM 
especially where you are constantly using RIT.  Without much trouble 
you¹ll learn to follow three or four simultaneous calls - useful for 
positioning your own. 

Above all, try NOT to develop a distinctive fist if it makes what you¹re 
sending less comprehensible.  Just last week I worked a new (for me) DX 
station who was using an idiosyncratic way of sending ³R², which was how 
he began every transmission after his own call.  It went ³DIT [long space] 
DH [log space] DIT."  It took me ten rounds to realize that his call 
[disguised here to avoid insulting a station from whom I need a QSL] was 
XX5YY rather than XX5YYE. 

SK, de KN1CBR (Ted) 


> 
>Message: 17 
>Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 08:52:43 -0500 (EST) 
>From: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> 
>To: "Tom Blahovici" <[hidden email]> 
>Cc: [hidden email] 
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW decoder and CQ CW contest 
>Message-ID: 
> <[hidden email]> 
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 
> 
>Tom, 
> 
>Congratulations on your discovery of CW, and on your desire to learn it 
>and use it. I've been using CW for about 48 years now for about 90% my 
>operating. Tons of fun! 
> 
>But PLEASE DO develop the habit of using the characters "DE" to preface 
>the sending of your callsign, whether calling CQ or in exchange with 
>another station. When conditions are poor, or your signal is weak, it has 
>much value as a delimiter or announcement that you are about to send your 
>call. This used to be standard practice for years, but unfortunately 
>appears to have become optional. I have no idea why; it's so short, and 
>easy to send... 
> 
>73, and have fun! 
> 
>DE WA8SRA (Dale) 
> 
> 
> 
>> 


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Re: [Elecraft] BNCs Enough!

2014-10-13 Thread kd7gc
For what it might be worth, I only use 7/16 DIN connectors for my jumpers
and transmission lines.  When I have coax switches and baluns made, as well
as accessories such as power meters, I always order them with 7/16 DINs.  I
also always buy either Andrew or Times Microwave connectors depending
whether I am using hard line or coax such as LMR600 or LMR900.  It costs a
bunch more, but the 7/16 DIN connectors can't be beat.

 

Alan/KD7GC

 

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Fred Townsend-2 [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7593827...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 2:52 PM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Re: BNCs Enough!

 

Without sounding my horn too loudly I have servered on IEEE connector
committees and been paid big bucks to solve the production line problems.
Counterfet connectors is too mild a term. There is some real crap out there
and your eyeballs won't be able to detect it. Things like finish and and
spring tention problems can not be seen. I recall one particular connector
that was causing a 2db measured loss over a prefered Kings or Amphenol
connector. The imported brand X connector was available in both 50 and 75
ohm versions, both of which were unmarked. When actually measured with a TDR
they both measured 62 ohms. 

Folks, life is too short to mess with S T U F F like this. Do you really
have to touch the wet paint or believe the sign. 

73, Fred, AE6QL 


-Original Message- 


>From: Fred Jensen <[hidden email]> 
>Sent: Oct 13, 2014 12:49 PM 
>To: [hidden email] 
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BNCs 
> 
>On 10/13/2014 10:42 AM, Sandy Blaize wrote: 
> 
>> There is a lot of "crap" parts available at hamfests these days!  Be 
>> careful what you buy!! 
> 
>Had cable problems with P3 when I first got it.  Bob, K6XX, at Elecraft 
>and who I know well called me and said [only slightly tongue-in-cheek] 
>they'd send me a replacement cable ... *if* I promised to cut the old 
>one in small pieces and bury it at the bottom of our trash can so it 
>never could appear at a ham swap. :-)  I did. 
> 
>If you want connectors that fit, and that work all the time, you'll need 
>to totally avoid the cheap stuff.  I use only Amphenol coax connectors. 
> 
>73, 
> 
>Fred K6DGW 
>- Northern California Contest Club 
>- CU in the 2015 Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015 
>- www.cqp.org 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] BNC connectors for RG-8X Coax

2014-10-09 Thread kd7gc
Hello Phil, 

 

I use very few BNC connectors, but the few that I have used were all
crimp-on.  You might want to look at www.tessco.com to see what is
available.  I buy most of my connectors from Tessco, and they have a
tremendous selection of all manner of connectors.

 

HTH

 

Alan

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Phil Hystad-3 [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7593717...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2014 10:20 PM
To: kd7gc
Subject: BNC connectors for RG-8X Coax

 

I am looking to use BNC (male) connectors for RG-8X cable.  I have found a
number of crimp style connectors but I am wondering if there are any other
kind to consider.  Are the crimp style the best for reasonable cost? 

My application does not need to be weather protective -- all use indoors. 

Thanks, 

73, phil, K7PEH 

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Re: [Elecraft] Tuning your radio and amplifier to your amtenna

2014-08-27 Thread kd7gc
Hello Jim,  In major part I agree with your suggested method for tuning up
and amp, but I would never begin my tuning with an output from my
transceiver of 4 watts.  I have never heard of anyone suggesting that tuning
should begin with anything close to 4 watts.  I generally go thru 3 or 4
steps, but I start with my transceiver set to about 25 or 30 watts output.
I bring my drive up in say 3 or 4 increments until I reach my desired amp
output, usually in the range of about 60 or 70 watts of drive, at least for
smaller amps.  However, when I tune up my Henry 5K I don't exceed about 45
watts of drive because I would already be over 1500 watts out.  At 70 watts
of drive I would be running over 3KW, or 3.5 KW on 40 or 75 meters.  

 

HTH

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: hf4me [via Elecraft] [mailto:ml-node+s365791n7592596...@n2.nabble.com]

Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 7:15 PM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Tuning your radio and amplifier to your amtenna

 

Manual tuner - Manual amplifier: 

Or, any tuner and amplifier - tune with low power and radio only to start. 

I don't use "tune" unless I am using the internal tuner.  Set your tune 
power setting to 4 watts, place your amp in standby, press xmit (xmit only, 
not tune) get your tuner properly adjusted, press xmit to release, turn your

power output down to 4 watts, enable your amplifier, place your radio in CW 
mode, tune to a frequency CLOSE to where you want to transmit - NOT on top 
of other QSOs, use your CW key to cause the radio to transmit, tune your 
amplifier and refine your tuner settings, let off the key every few seconds 
to not heat up everything, if your are happy with the current settings, 
increase your power out slowly as you watch it on each increase until you 
have achieved the output power you are looking for. 

1 lower your output power 
2 Transmit only a few seconds at a time 
3 Find an unused frequency - close is plenty good 
4 Tune with your radio without any amp 
5 When happy, enable the amp 
6 Adjust settings 
7 Increase power slowly 
8 Readjust if necessary. 
9 Tune to your target frequency 

73, Jim 

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna choices

2014-05-25 Thread kd7gc
Joshua, Multi-band yagis operate on the bands that they are designed to work
on.  If they worked on other bands, then all of the bands that it worked on
would be listed just as all of the others.  A tuner may be able to tune an
antenna up on a band other than what it was designed for, but it would
likely generate terrible SWR, and would therefore be very inefficient.
Determine what bands you want you yagi to cover, and buy one that matches
your needs.  The cost of a rotor depends in large part on the size of the
yagi that it will be turning.  A yagi with a 14 foot boom could be turned by
a very small rotor, but a yagi with a 50 foot boom will require a very
large, and very expensive rotor.

 

HTH

 

Alan/KD7GC

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Joshua Gould [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7589505...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2014 5:36 PM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Antenna choices

 

Ok, I know that this is a topic much like the Ford vs. Chevy debates or the 
Android vs. Apple debates, but I do have a few questions... 

I am going to be acquiring a 56 foot Rohn BX tower.  I already have a G5RV 
that I am planning on putting up (still not sure where I'm going to attach 
the other end of it to, One end will go on the tower.) I'm going to put up 
a 2m/440 vertical at some point up near the top of the tower.  I keep 
throwing around an HF vertical or a beam.  The verticals seem to cover more 
bands, but the beams are directional.  (Would also need a rotor,.. 

Can a multi band yagi be tuned to a different band, or will it only work on 
the bands that it's designed for? 

I'm thinking long term and I'll probably be adding a K3/100 with a KPA500 
to the mix in the next year or so...  Trying to figure out what will give 
me the best bang for my buck, so to speak. 

73, 
Joshua Gould 
K8WXA 
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Re: [Elecraft] 6 meters openings

2014-05-25 Thread kd7gc
I have been working up into VE1, VE2, and VE3, plus quite a few states in
the mid west.

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Leroy [via Elecraft] [mailto:ml-node+s365791n7589493...@n2.nabble.com]

Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2014 1:30 PM
To: kd7gc
Subject: 6 meters openings

 

   I worked 12 single and 6 double hops yesterday, and band is opening now. 
  
Leroy AB7CE 

  
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Re: [Elecraft] uhf connectors

2014-05-18 Thread kd7gc
For what ever it might be worth, I use 7/16 DIN connectors instead of either
UHF or type N connectors.  Once I have connected a jumper to the back of a
rig, I then use only 7/16 DINs all the way to my SteppIr.  My DB36 also uses
a 7/16 DIN as I use a custom balun from Array Solutions.  I had Jay make my
balun with a female 7/16 DIN, just as I had him build my PMII couplers with
male and female 7/16 DINs.

 

Alan/KD7GC

 

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: riese-k3djc [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n758923...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2014 7:58 AM
To: kd7gc
Subject: uhf connectors

 


Ummm 

you may want to review this space http://www.wa1mba.org/UHFconn.htm
before making statements about UHF connectors 

Bob K3DJC 




On Sat, 17 May 2014 20:25:52 -0700 Walter Underwood 
<[hidden email]> writes: 
> And we're still using RS-232 instead of USB. And UHF connectors, 
> which have been obsolete since the 1940's (when the N connector was 
> developed). It is all kind of embarrassing. 
> 
> wunder 
> K6WRU 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions on Antenna Analyzers

2014-03-30 Thread kd7gc
The unit I was advised to purchase when ready is the VNA2180 from Array
Solutions.

I believe that it is a 2 port analyzer.

 

Alan/KD7GC

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Mark Tellez [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7586250...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2014 7:39 PM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Suggestions on Antenna Analyzers

 

Hello, 

I am considering purchasing an antenna analyzer to help me refine some of 
my homebrew antenna "experiments" and also to tune my Buddipole. 

What is most important to me is accuracy, ease of use and of course giving 
me all the info I will need to adjust my antenna.  Since I have never used 
an analyzer I am not sure what I going to need so I would appreciate advice 
from those of you who have one. 

At this stage I am considering the following:   AA-54, AA-230Pro, iPortable 
60, Comet CAA-500, and AIM 4170(not very portable).   Any others I should 
look at? 

Thanks, 

Mark 
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Re: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...

2014-02-26 Thread kd7gc
Bill, six is a very interesting band.  Are you familiar with the phrase,
hurry up and wait?  That describes six meters as it relates to CW and/or
SSB.  Generally there is no activity on six, except in major cities where
there are some six meter FM repeaters.  Other than I know that they exist,
including here in Phoenix, I know nothing further about FM on six.  A good
six meter antenna is important to hear and work CW and SSB when the band
opens.  My six meter station consists of the Kenwood TS480SAT driving a
Commander legal limit amp.  My antenna is a 9 element yagi from M Square.
My six meter antenna is at approximately 82 feet.  My six meter feed line
consists of LMR900DB from my shack out to the bottom of my tower, the
vertical run up to the top of the tower is made of LMR600, and my rotor loop
is made of LMR600UF.  I generally run about 1200 watts on six.  Here is the
thing though, the band is hardly ever open, so my TS480 basically just sits
there doing nothing.  It is important to leave it turned on though, because
if the band does open, I might easily miss it.  Band openings can last for a
matter of a few minutes, to many hours, but usually only about 15 or 20
minutes.  Therefore, if the rig isn't on, I probably won't know about it.
When I catch an opening, I can work 20 or 30 stations in a matter of 5
minutes say.  However, I haven't caught an opening now for probably 2
months, Hi.  When it happens again, I sure hope that I am in here and ready
to go, Hi.  The band is total chaos during a big opening.  It is hard to
believe how many stations instantly come out of the woodwork.

 

Six meters can be thrilling or boring at the same time.  I love it, as do
most of the gang that chase grid squares.

 

73

Alan/KD7GC

 

 

 

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Phil Hystad-3 [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7584767...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2014 11:10 AM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Advice on 6 meters...

 

I have seen some comments recently about six meters and I have never
operated six meters.  I don't really have a descent antenna for six meters,
just my 80-meter (ladder line fed) dipole or my hex beam that I can at least
tune to six meters. 

The band is always dead quiet with the small exception of some noise spikes
here and there but very rare. 

Question:  is there any activity for six meters that I should invest in a
nice multi-element 6 meter bean antenna? 

My most dominant operating mode would be CW but maybe some SSB from time to
time.  I have no idea what's there as this band has always been blank to me.


73, phil, K7PEH 

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Re: [Elecraft] W2 Wattmeter idea

2013-12-24 Thread kd7gc
For what it might be worth, my Power Master 2 from Array Solutions has an
option called "Net Power" that does exactly what you want.

 

73

KD7GC

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Vic K2VCO-2 [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7582024...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 7:09 PM
To: kd7gc
Subject: W2 Wattmeter idea

 

I just ordered a W2 wattmeter, haven't received it yet, and I already 
want to change something! 

It displays forward power and SWR. When the SWR is 1:1, then the power 
output of the transmitter is equal to the forward power. But when it is 
greater than 1:1, then the actual power output is the forward power LESS 
the reflected power. 

I would like an option to display this output power, forward less 
reflected. This could probably be done in the firmware, a "SMOP" as 
Wayne likes to say. 

I realize that this does not tell you the power delivered to the 
antenna, for which you would need to know the line loss. But it is still 
a more useful indication than just the forward power. 

-- 
Vic K2VCO 
Fresno CA 
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Proper installation of PL 259's

2013-11-12 Thread kd7gc
For whatever it might be worth, I have been using nothing but crimped 
connectors for at least the past 5 years.  In addition, once out of the rig, I 
use nothing but 7/16 DIN connectors.  They are very expensive, some in excess 
of $100 each, but they have very low loss, and they are sealed well against WX. 
 When I order baluns or switches, I always specify that they must be made with 
7/16 DINs, and I have never been disappointed with their performance.

 

73

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: W0WFH Bill [via Elecraft] 
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n758073...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 4:06 AM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Proper installation of PL 259's

 

Having been a Motorola field tech. and shop manager for over 35 years.  I have 
installed 
thousands of PL 250's.  Motorola back in the mid 1980's start suggesting 
installers use 
crimp on connectors because of too many redoes on mobile installations.  Most 
of the 
service problems on new installations was bad solder connections of PL 259s.  


So Motorola developed a nice crimp on PL 259 an a special crimping tool to go 
with 
the connectors.  Being an old school tech.  I had some reservations as too how 
they would 
hold up in ruff service installations.  Well they held up very well an are 
still being used today. 

So, if you want good crimp on PL259s go to your local Motorola Service Shop an 
buy some 
connector. 


Bill, W0WFH 
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Re: [Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you.

2013-09-08 Thread kd7gc
Good morning from Phoenix,

 

I am in the process of trying to decide which new transceiver go purchase,
sometime around Christmas time.  I have one particular overriding
requirement in considering the various rigs.  I am totally blind, and good
access to the controls, data, and menus is obviously mandatory.  There is a
box available now that connects to the K-3 in some fashion, that offers
speech output to the blind operator.  I am investigating further as to what
is actually spoken, and the results of my investigation will be an important
factor in making my ultimate decision.  Frankly, one of the clear
disadvantages of the K-3 from my personal perspective, is its 100 watt
output.  I own an amp that requires 200 watts to drive it to full output,
and I will shortly have another.  The 100 watt limit is not a fatal "flaw,"
but it is a factor.

 

When I am closer to making my final decision, and if I have concluded that a
K-3 makes the best sense for my particular circumstances, then I will
certainly contact you.

 

 

Thank you for writing, and I will be doing my best to settle my decision as
soon as possible.

 

KD7GC

 

 

Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ

 

From: Alan Price-2 [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7578727...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 4:32 AM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Let me build a K2 for you.

 


Let me build your K2 or other Elecraft kit. My prices are reasonable, and
you have a radio, with the options you want, fully built.  Please respond
off of the reflector. 
  
73 
Alan 
W1HYV 
  
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