Re: Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-18 Thread d.cutter
In the old days we used to call it tropicallising, now it's called conformal 
coating and refers to a material either sprayed, painted or dipped onto the 
electrical parts.  Conformal coating for military is very expensive and time 
consuming involving inspection with a uv lamp to pick up the uv die in the 
material, to descover imperfections and can be up to 3 layes thick.  

If you don't keep you equipment in an air tight box, then leave it switched on 
to slow down the deposition of salt products.  I think this works by keeping 
the interior warmer and thus higher air pressure to prevent the ingress from 
the surroundings.  Of course when you switch off it cools and the pressure 
falls and drags in the cooler contaminating air from the surroundings and 
that's when the damage starts.  So, switch off and immediately put into an air 
tight box.  It all sounds a bit excessive, but the other way is to coat 
everything with bare metal with a suitable coating, like the one mentioned from 
another reply.  The lacquer and and varnish sprays that you hold 6 away are 
only partly effective because tall components create shaddows and the spray 
doesn't get in properly.  They work on the solder side fairly well, but the cut 
off component wires do not get a coating - it runs off.  Genuine conformal 
coating comes expensive, is thick and does not run.  Last time I boug
 ht some it was about £40 for 400mL (circa 1990) made by Dow Corning but there 
are more types to choose from now.  If you spray, use several layers and get 
right in between the components; let it dry between sprays.  Take care that on 
some rf components you may get a small shift in value upsetting your carefully 
trimmed filters etc.

David
G3UNA  
 
 From: Tom Zeltwanger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2007/04/17 Tue PM 03:34:29 BST
 To: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?
 
 I operate from the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. The water there 
 is 
 only moderately salty but corrosion is very rapid compared to my experience 
 with inland QTHs. I was wondering if this would be a problem for my 
 equipment. 
 So far, no problem. I imagine anyone near the sea shores has this problem.
 
 73,
 
 Tom KG3V
 
 
 
 Quoting Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
 
  RUSTY Florida area?
  
  I'm surprised to hear about corrosive salty-air
  regions in Florida.  Just never heard of it?
  Our son lives on big island of Hawaii - near
  Hilo.  The salt water air type of corrosion, on
  things like bicycles, etc. - is notorious in Hawaii. 
  Things there - not protected, don't last so long.
  
  Islands of Hawaii - are in the trade winds region
  of the Pacific - and I guess get their daily dose
  of salty air, naturally.  I'm not sure this is 
  the case on either coast of Florida.  I'm probably
  wrong tho.  The big island, above city of Hilo -
  gets a daily dose of natural rain, like 2 pm
  every afternoon.  Perhaps the rain there, has
  some salinity.
  
  For some reason I've not heard this about Florida.
  
  We live 8 miles from the Gulf Coast of mid-western
  Florida.  I can't say I see anything around our home,
  or in my garage, etc. - that has any appearance
  of salt corrosion.  Cars look exceptional - easy
  to keep clean.  No visible corrosion on anything
  we have?  No rust on tools, etc.  
  
  I wonder what the salinity is of the Florida
  Atlantic ocean, vs the Hawaiian Pacific ocean
  and the trade winds?
  
  Fred,
  N3CSY
  
  
  
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-18 Thread Brett gazdzinski
 My guess would be you would spend more energy heating the
oven up drying out the silica gel than leaving the rig on
all the time.

I would just turn it off and cover it up.

What about the rest of the stuff in the house?
Does the toaster rust and the TV crap out?

What about your poor car?

Brett
N2DTS

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron 
 D'Eau Claire
 Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 11:54 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?
 
 Since a major uproar over energy conservation seems to have erupted on
 another thread here G I'll ask the question I raised there again:
 
 Has anyone considered using desiccants rather than leave the 
 power on 24/7
 if you're in an area where considerable moisture condenses in 
 your rig? I
 believe the one used most often around electronic gear is 
 silica dioxide
 (SiO2). It's a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly sold in an
 indicating form, small crystals that change from blue to pink as the
 material absorbs moisture. It can absorb up to 40% of its own 
 weight at
 normal room temperatures and is quite easy to recharge. You 
 just put it in
 a warm oven for a while until it turns blue again! It's often sold in
 inexpensive five-pound cans by stores catering to the 
 dried-flower trade. 
 
 Even though I've lived within a few hundred feet of the 
 Pacific Ocean I've
 yet to encounter any corrosion problems. If I did my first 
 choice would be
 to reduce the humidity in some energy-efficient way rather 
 than simply leave
 the power on. If one wanted to be really rigorous about it, a 
 small solar
 oven could handle the recharging process G. Even on ships, 
 it takes months
 -- often a year or two -- for something like the 
 old-fashioned lifeboat
 radios that enclosed about a cubit foot of air inside their 
 case to have a
 desiccant tube about 1 inch in diameter and 4 inches long 
 become saturated.
 
 Ron AC7AC
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Zeltwanger
 Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 2:30 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Don Wilhelm
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?
 
 
 Thanks Don,
 
 That is probably ood advice. I keep the equipment in a closed 
 room, but I
 think I will cover it. I generally keep my radios for a long 
 time (this K2
 is replacing a Kenwood TS-930, bought in about 1980!).
 
 73,
 
 Tom KG3V
 
 
 Quoting Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
 
  Tom,
  
  I recently repaired a K2 that had lived for several years 
 in the salt
  air of Houston Texas.  The external case screws and the 
 connectors on 
  the rear panel were corroded enough that they were changed. 
  However, 
  the inside of the K2 still looked just fine.
  
  If I can base any conclusions on that one K2, I would 
 suggest that you
  cover your K2 when it is not in use - just a sheet of plastic would 
  probably do the job although you may want to look into some kind of 
  custom cover for it.
  
  Remember that this comment is based on my brief observation 
 of one K2
  that had been in a salt air environment - it would be 
 unwise for me to 
  generalize any further on the subject.
  
  73,
  Don W3FPR
  
  Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
   I operate from the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. The 
   water
  there is
   only moderately salty but corrosion is very rapid compared to my 
   experience
  
   with inland QTHs. I was wondering if this would be a 
 problem for my
  equipment.
   So far, no problem. I imagine anyone near the sea shores has this 
   problem.
   
   73,
   
   Tom KG3V
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-18 Thread Jack Brindle
Conformal coating is actually meant to solve a completely different  
problem. Imagine an environment that regularly goes from high heat/ 
high humidity to very cold/dry conditions in just a few minutes. When  
that happens, condensation is sure to happen. Conformal coating takes  
care of this situation very nicely.


Oh, this situation happens thousands of times every day - it is the  
environment for aircraft avionics...


To the original poster: Don't worry about it. It really isn't a  
problem where you live. If you worry about this, you also need to  
worry about the sand particles from the Sahara that are regularly  
carried into South Florida on the tradewinds (and also effect  
hurricane development).


On Apr 18, 2007, at 4:54 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


In the old days we used to call it tropicallising, now it's called  
conformal coating and refers to a material either sprayed, painted  
or dipped onto the electrical parts.  Conformal coating for  
military is very expensive and time consuming involving inspection  
with a uv lamp to pick up the uv die in the material, to descover  
imperfections and can be up to 3 layes thick.


If you don't keep you equipment in an air tight box, then leave it  
switched on to slow down the deposition of salt products.  I think  
this works by keeping the interior warmer and thus higher air  
pressure to prevent the ingress from the surroundings.  Of course  
when you switch off it cools and the pressure falls and drags in  
the cooler contaminating air from the surroundings and that's when  
the damage starts.  So, switch off and immediately put into an air  
tight box.  It all sounds a bit excessive, but the other way is to  
coat everything with bare metal with a suitable coating, like the  
one mentioned from another reply.  The lacquer and and varnish  
sprays that you hold 6 away are only partly effective because tall  
components create shaddows and the spray doesn't get in properly.   
They work on the solder side fairly well, but the cut off component  
wires do not get a coating - it runs off.  Genuine conformal  
coating comes expensive, is thick and does not run.  Last time I boug
 ht some it was about £40 for 400mL (circa 1990) made by Dow  
Corning but there are more types to choose from now.  If you spray,  
use several layers and get right in between the components; let it  
dry between sprays.  Take care that on some rf components you may  
get a small shift in value upsetting your carefully trimmed filters  
etc.


David
G3UNA


From: Tom Zeltwanger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2007/04/17 Tue PM 03:34:29 BST
To: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

I operate from the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. The  
water there is
only moderately salty but corrosion is very rapid compared to my  
experience
with inland QTHs. I was wondering if this would be a problem for  
my equipment.
So far, no problem. I imagine anyone near the sea shores has this  
problem.


73,

Tom KG3V



Quoting Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


RUSTY Florida area?

I'm surprised to hear about corrosive salty-air
regions in Florida.  Just never heard of it?
Our son lives on big island of Hawaii - near
Hilo.  The salt water air type of corrosion, on
things like bicycles, etc. - is notorious in Hawaii.
Things there - not protected, don't last so long.

Islands of Hawaii - are in the trade winds region
of the Pacific - and I guess get their daily dose
of salty air, naturally.  I'm not sure this is
the case on either coast of Florida.  I'm probably
wrong tho.  The big island, above city of Hilo -
gets a daily dose of natural rain, like 2 pm
every afternoon.  Perhaps the rain there, has
some salinity.

For some reason I've not heard this about Florida.

We live 8 miles from the Gulf Coast of mid-western
Florida.  I can't say I see anything around our home,
or in my garage, etc. - that has any appearance
of salt corrosion.  Cars look exceptional - easy
to keep clean.  No visible corrosion on anything
we have?  No rust on tools, etc.

I wonder what the salinity is of the Florida
Atlantic ocean, vs the Hawaiian Pacific ocean
and the trade winds?

Fred,
N3CSY



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-18 Thread David Cutter

Hi Jack

You may well be right about the origination of conformal coating but it 
was quickly taken up by other services who saw its benefits.  I agree that 
for MOST amateur situations it's probably over the top, but one of the 
respondents to this thread has done it because he feels it necessary in his 
situation.


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?


Conformal coating is actually meant to solve a completely different
problem. Imagine an environment that regularly goes from high heat/
high humidity to very cold/dry conditions in just a few minutes. When
that happens, condensation is sure to happen. Conformal coating takes
care of this situation very nicely.

Oh, this situation happens thousands of times every day - it is the
environment for aircraft avionics...

To the original poster: Don't worry about it. It really isn't a
problem where you live. If you worry about this, you also need to
worry about the sand particles from the Sahara that are regularly
carried into South Florida on the tradewinds (and also effect
hurricane development).

On Apr 18, 2007, at 4:54 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

In the old days we used to call it tropicallising, now it's called 
conformal coating and refers to a material either sprayed, painted  or 
dipped onto the electrical parts.  Conformal coating for  military is very 
expensive and time consuming involving inspection  with a uv lamp to pick 
up the uv die in the material, to descover  imperfections and can be up to 
3 layes thick.


If you don't keep you equipment in an air tight box, then leave it 
switched on to slow down the deposition of salt products.  I think  this 
works by keeping the interior warmer and thus higher air  pressure to 
prevent the ingress from the surroundings.  Of course  when you switch off 
it cools and the pressure falls and drags in  the cooler contaminating air 
from the surroundings and that's when  the damage starts.  So, switch off 
and immediately put into an air  tight box.  It all sounds a bit 
excessive, but the other way is to  coat everything with bare metal with a 
suitable coating, like the  one mentioned from another reply.  The lacquer 
and and varnish  sprays that you hold 6 away are only partly effective 
because tall  components create shaddows and the spray doesn't get in 
properly.   They work on the solder side fairly well, but the cut off 
component  wires do not get a coating - it runs off.  Genuine conformal 
coating comes expensive, is thick and does not run.  Last time I boug
 ht some it was about £40 for 400mL (circa 1990) made by Dow  Corning but 
there are more types to choose from now.  If you spray,  use several 
layers and get right in between the components; let it  dry between 
sprays.  Take care that on some rf components you may  get a small shift 
in value upsetting your carefully trimmed filters  etc.


David
G3UNA


From: Tom Zeltwanger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2007/04/17 Tue PM 03:34:29 BST
To: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

I operate from the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. The  water 
there is
only moderately salty but corrosion is very rapid compared to my 
experience
with inland QTHs. I was wondering if this would be a problem for  my 
equipment.
So far, no problem. I imagine anyone near the sea shores has this 
problem.


73,

Tom KG3V



Quoting Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


RUSTY Florida area?

I'm surprised to hear about corrosive salty-air
regions in Florida.  Just never heard of it?
Our son lives on big island of Hawaii - near
Hilo.  The salt water air type of corrosion, on
things like bicycles, etc. - is notorious in Hawaii.
Things there - not protected, don't last so long.

Islands of Hawaii - are in the trade winds region
of the Pacific - and I guess get their daily dose
of salty air, naturally.  I'm not sure this is
the case on either coast of Florida.  I'm probably
wrong tho.  The big island, above city of Hilo -
gets a daily dose of natural rain, like 2 pm
every afternoon.  Perhaps the rain there, has
some salinity.

For some reason I've not heard this about Florida.

We live 8 miles from the Gulf Coast of mid-western
Florida.  I can't say I see anything around our home,
or in my garage, etc. - that has any appearance
of salt corrosion.  Cars look exceptional - easy
to keep clean.  No visible corrosion on anything
we have?  No rust on tools, etc.

I wonder what the salinity is of the Florida
Atlantic ocean, vs the Hawaiian Pacific ocean
and the trade winds?

Fred,
N3CSY



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-18 Thread rohre
Actually, Jack very little electronics is outside the building, but inside
the inside air conditioner unit.  Outside is the compressor, and a relay.
In some parts of Tx, the outside residential units fail regularly, becauser
the field of electric current for the relay attracts fire ants who try to
nest in the relay box, thus shorting it out.

Stuart
K5KVH

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RE: Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Tropicalizing can help with fungi and other stuff that grows in
excessively humid and warm climes. It's not specific to a sea air
environment. Indeed, salt tends to kill many fungi! In warm climates water
evaporates from the sea. Such water vapor does not carry salt. It's pure
water. But when it condenses on things it provides the moist environment
where, combined with warm temperatures, fungi thrive!

And that might be a significant difference. I notice that those like Tom,
who reported seeing some corrosion issues, are on the eastern coast of the
USA. I'm on the west coast where it's much, much cooler. The Pacific ocean
along the US mainland coast about 51F year around - cool enough to produce
hypothermia in a short period of time if someone is in the water without a
survival suit. (There's a reason the neoprene 'wet-suit' used by surfers and
divers was invented independently by three different avid surfers - all who
lived on the California coast!)

We don't get the humid, moist air here folks along warmer waters experience.
Mold and fungi can be issues here, but only where people carelessly allow
high temperatures and condensation to occur repeatedly such as laundry rooms
with poorly-ventilated clothes dryers. I've never found condensation in any
radio equipment.

Ron D'Eau Claire 


-Original Message-

In the old days we used to call it tropicallising, now it's called conformal
coating and refers to a material either sprayed, painted or dipped onto the
electrical parts.  Conformal coating for military is very expensive and time
consuming involving inspection with a uv lamp to pick up the uv die in the
material, to descover imperfections and can be up to 3 layes thick.  

If you don't keep you equipment in an air tight box, then leave it switched
on to slow down the deposition of salt products.  I think this works by
keeping the interior warmer and thus higher air pressure to prevent the
ingress from the surroundings.  Of course when you switch off it cools and
the pressure falls and drags in the cooler contaminating air from the
surroundings and that's when the damage starts.  So, switch off and
immediately put into an air tight box.  It all sounds a bit excessive, but
the other way is to coat everything with bare metal with a suitable coating,
like the one mentioned from another reply.  The lacquer and and varnish
sprays that you hold 6 away are only partly effective because tall
components create shaddows and the spray doesn't get in properly.  They work
on the solder side fairly well, but the cut off component wires do not get a
coating - it runs off.  Genuine conformal coating comes expensive, is thick
and does not run.  Last time I boug  ht some it was about £40 for 400mL
(circa 1990) made by Dow Corning but there are more types to choose from
now.  If you spray, use several layers and get right in between the
components; let it dry between sprays.  Take care that on some rf components
you may get a small shift in value upsetting your carefully trimmed filters
etc.

David
G3UNA  
 
 From: Tom Zeltwanger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2007/04/17 Tue PM 03:34:29 BST
 To: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?
 
 I operate from the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. The water 
 there is
 only moderately salty but corrosion is very rapid compared to my
experience 
 with inland QTHs. I was wondering if this would be a problem for my
equipment. 
 So far, no problem. I imagine anyone near the sea shores has this problem.
 
 73,
 
 Tom KG3V

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-17 Thread Tom Zeltwanger
I operate from the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. The water there is 
only moderately salty but corrosion is very rapid compared to my experience 
with inland QTHs. I was wondering if this would be a problem for my equipment. 
So far, no problem. I imagine anyone near the sea shores has this problem.

73,

Tom KG3V



Quoting Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 RUSTY Florida area?
 
 I'm surprised to hear about corrosive salty-air
 regions in Florida.  Just never heard of it?
 Our son lives on big island of Hawaii - near
 Hilo.  The salt water air type of corrosion, on
 things like bicycles, etc. - is notorious in Hawaii. 
 Things there - not protected, don't last so long.
 
 Islands of Hawaii - are in the trade winds region
 of the Pacific - and I guess get their daily dose
 of salty air, naturally.  I'm not sure this is 
 the case on either coast of Florida.  I'm probably
 wrong tho.  The big island, above city of Hilo -
 gets a daily dose of natural rain, like 2 pm
 every afternoon.  Perhaps the rain there, has
 some salinity.
 
 For some reason I've not heard this about Florida.
 
 We live 8 miles from the Gulf Coast of mid-western
 Florida.  I can't say I see anything around our home,
 or in my garage, etc. - that has any appearance
 of salt corrosion.  Cars look exceptional - easy
 to keep clean.  No visible corrosion on anything
 we have?  No rust on tools, etc.  
 
 I wonder what the salinity is of the Florida
 Atlantic ocean, vs the Hawaiian Pacific ocean
 and the trade winds?
 
 Fred,
 N3CSY
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-17 Thread Norm Havercroft
I live on the southern shore of Fidalgo Island where the fresh salt air turns 
metal of most sorts into new colors.  In order to minimize corrosion I have 
come up with the following technique.  After all the soldering and close 
trimming is done on a project, I go back over every lead end and give it a 
touch of solder to cover those copper ends that are anxious to turn green.  It 
takes less than a second on each component lead.  Doing so also makes for a 
very smooth board.  Next comes a very thorough cleaning with Q tips, tooth 
brush and denatured alcohol the remove all the flux.  After cleaning, I give 
the board a thin coating of Boeshield, an anti-corrosion spray developed by 
Boeing Aircraft.  If you use the thin red extension straw and very gently 
depress the spray button, you can get a very thin coating on the board without 
getting it on the components.  Quickly tipping the board back and forth will 
cover everything before the solvent flashes off.  You can also just spray some 
into a small cup and use Q tips to apply if you are wary of variable caps.  
After it dries, you can either leave it with a slightly waxy coating or wipe it 
down with no loss of protection.

I have 20 year old projects that look as bright and shiny as the day the were 
built.  This stuff works well to keep tools from rusting.  I also use it on 
boat electrical systems with great success.  And no, I don't own Boeing.

72/73,

N7NSD
Norm  

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

I recently repaired a K2 that had lived for several years in the salt 
air of Houston Texas.  The external case screws and the connectors on 
the rear panel were corroded enough that they were changed.  However, 
the inside of the K2 still looked just fine.


If I can base any conclusions on that one K2, I would suggest that you 
cover your K2 when it is not in use - just a sheet of plastic would 
probably do the job although you may want to look into some kind of 
custom cover for it.


Remember that this comment is based on my brief observation of one K2 
that had been in a salt air environment - it would be unwise for me to 
generalize any further on the subject.


73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
I operate from the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. The water there is 
only moderately salty but corrosion is very rapid compared to my experience 
with inland QTHs. I was wondering if this would be a problem for my equipment. 
So far, no problem. I imagine anyone near the sea shores has this problem.


73,

Tom KG3V

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-17 Thread Tom Zeltwanger
Thanks Don,

That is probably ood advice. I keep the equipment in a closed room, but I think
I will cover it. I generally keep my radios for a long time (this K2 is
replacing a Kenwood TS-930, bought in about 1980!).

73,

Tom KG3V


Quoting Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 Tom,
 
 I recently repaired a K2 that had lived for several years in the salt 
 air of Houston Texas.  The external case screws and the connectors on 
 the rear panel were corroded enough that they were changed.  However, 
 the inside of the K2 still looked just fine.
 
 If I can base any conclusions on that one K2, I would suggest that you 
 cover your K2 when it is not in use - just a sheet of plastic would 
 probably do the job although you may want to look into some kind of 
 custom cover for it.
 
 Remember that this comment is based on my brief observation of one K2 
 that had been in a salt air environment - it would be unwise for me to 
 generalize any further on the subject.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
  I operate from the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. The water
 there is 
  only moderately salty but corrosion is very rapid compared to my experience
 
  with inland QTHs. I was wondering if this would be a problem for my
 equipment. 
  So far, no problem. I imagine anyone near the sea shores has this problem.
  
  73,
  
  Tom KG3V
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Since a major uproar over energy conservation seems to have erupted on
another thread here G I'll ask the question I raised there again:

Has anyone considered using desiccants rather than leave the power on 24/7
if you're in an area where considerable moisture condenses in your rig? I
believe the one used most often around electronic gear is silica dioxide
(SiO2). It's a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly sold in an
indicating form, small crystals that change from blue to pink as the
material absorbs moisture. It can absorb up to 40% of its own weight at
normal room temperatures and is quite easy to recharge. You just put it in
a warm oven for a while until it turns blue again! It's often sold in
inexpensive five-pound cans by stores catering to the dried-flower trade. 

Even though I've lived within a few hundred feet of the Pacific Ocean I've
yet to encounter any corrosion problems. If I did my first choice would be
to reduce the humidity in some energy-efficient way rather than simply leave
the power on. If one wanted to be really rigorous about it, a small solar
oven could handle the recharging process G. Even on ships, it takes months
-- often a year or two -- for something like the old-fashioned lifeboat
radios that enclosed about a cubit foot of air inside their case to have a
desiccant tube about 1 inch in diameter and 4 inches long become saturated.

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Zeltwanger
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 2:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Don Wilhelm
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?


Thanks Don,

That is probably ood advice. I keep the equipment in a closed room, but I
think I will cover it. I generally keep my radios for a long time (this K2
is replacing a Kenwood TS-930, bought in about 1980!).

73,

Tom KG3V


Quoting Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 Tom,
 
 I recently repaired a K2 that had lived for several years in the salt
 air of Houston Texas.  The external case screws and the connectors on 
 the rear panel were corroded enough that they were changed.  However, 
 the inside of the K2 still looked just fine.
 
 If I can base any conclusions on that one K2, I would suggest that you
 cover your K2 when it is not in use - just a sheet of plastic would 
 probably do the job although you may want to look into some kind of 
 custom cover for it.
 
 Remember that this comment is based on my brief observation of one K2
 that had been in a salt air environment - it would be unwise for me to 
 generalize any further on the subject.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
  I operate from the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia. The 
  water
 there is
  only moderately salty but corrosion is very rapid compared to my 
  experience
 
  with inland QTHs. I was wondering if this would be a problem for my
 equipment.
  So far, no problem. I imagine anyone near the sea shores has this 
  problem.
  
  73,
  
  Tom KG3V
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[Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-16 Thread LAMB, Dick and Judy
During the winter  I live about 200 meters from the Florida Atlantic 
beach.  Usually I have windows open, and although the salty sea breeze 
is pleasant,  it greatly speeds corrosion of metal.


Perhaps a maritime electronics expert could advise me as to whether I 
should leave my K2 (and other gear) on all the time, or power off when 
not it use.  I can speculate that the slightly increased temperature 
from leaving it on might prevent some condensation of moisture.  On the 
other hand, I recall from chemistry classes that increased temperature 
accelerates chemical reactions (like corrosion).  Are there any other 
reasonable precautions I can take?


Thanks
Dick, K0KK
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[Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-16 Thread Fred (FL)
RUSTY Florida area?

I'm surprised to hear about corrosive salty-air
regions in Florida.  Just never heard of it?
Our son lives on big island of Hawaii - near
Hilo.  The salt water air type of corrosion, on
things like bicycles, etc. - is notorious in Hawaii. 
Things there - not protected, don't last so long.

Islands of Hawaii - are in the trade winds region
of the Pacific - and I guess get their daily dose
of salty air, naturally.  I'm not sure this is 
the case on either coast of Florida.  I'm probably
wrong tho.  The big island, above city of Hilo -
gets a daily dose of natural rain, like 2 pm
every afternoon.  Perhaps the rain there, has
some salinity.

For some reason I've not heard this about Florida.

We live 8 miles from the Gulf Coast of mid-western
Florida.  I can't say I see anything around our home,
or in my garage, etc. - that has any appearance
of salt corrosion.  Cars look exceptional - easy
to keep clean.  No visible corrosion on anything
we have?  No rust on tools, etc.  

I wonder what the salinity is of the Florida
Atlantic ocean, vs the Hawaiian Pacific ocean
and the trade winds?

Fred,
N3CSY



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Fw: [Elecraft] K2 near the sea: leave on or not?

2007-04-16 Thread Ken Kopp

Lived in Florida for 16 years ... in Melbourne and St.Petersburg.
Some salt air-related rust, corrosion, mildew but nothing like here 
on the Oregon coast where we spend winter months away from 
Montana.  Except for the mildew ... we have a dehumidifier.  It's 
a must here.  (:-))


I'd leave the radio ON continously ... better for it in the long
run than turning it on/off ... for several reasons.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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