Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems
Oscar, Instead of checking for the maximum power output, check to see if you have power control. Operate into a dummy load - if you have the KAT2 installed, set the ATU menu to CALP and exit the menu. Then set the POWER knob to 5 watts and see whether the power output goes to something quite above 5 watts. If the power is significantly higher than that set by the POWER knob, then the K2 is not measuring the power output correctly. If you have the KAT2, there is a problem with the wattmeter on the KAT2. Most likely diodes D1 and D2 have been damaged by static coming from the antenna feedline. Those diodes are the first thing to check. If no KAT2, then D9 on the RF board is the most likely suspect. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/25/2017 9:09 PM, Oscar Castillo wrote: hello all i have a problem whit my K2, on 40 meters band i have like 22 - 24 watts of power all the others bands are ok 13 - 15 watts on full power, and on SSB any band i hit the mike i get the CAL CURR sign, any clue what the problem are? thanks everyone for the advices __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems after lightning
I just wanted to offer a few general suggestions. Do follow Don's expert instructions. A lesson taught me by a fellow bench tech who did not have a lot of tech training was to initially open the unit and carefully look over the circuit board for obvious burnt items! Use your nose for burnt smell. Touch to find Hot components (carefully). Look for black marks indicating arcing. I can't tell you how well that worked for him! An approach I used when I had a dead short on the dc power, which could be anywhere on the board that the power trace went, was: divide and conquer, meaning try to isolate sections and troubleshoot each by itself. This might require cutting the power trace in certain areas (in your case, follow Don's approach as he knows these radios intimately...he will tell you if that becomes necessary). My first step after the look-sniff-touch method is check basic performance (radio lamps light-up, makes noise in Rx, keys in transmit, shows output power, etc.) Those symptoms help narrow down what to check. Then get out the multimeter and make resistance and voltage checks. Of course this assumes you have a schematic diagram and have the background knowledge to understand it. If the unit is not stable when you apply power then you will have to start out with resistance checks and/or isolation methods. The lightening hit is probably one of the worst as it may have gone anywhere in the unit. Hope you are successful in fixing it. 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com Kits made by KL7UW Dubus Mag business: dubus...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems after lightning
The easiest radio to repair is one that has had a small fire in one corner of the chassis. Tom, W6AHY (SK) 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org PS: Tom had no eyesight On 4/7/2014 10:54 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: A lesson taught me by a fellow bench tech who did not have a lot of tech training was to initially open the unit and carefully look over the circuit board for obvious burnt items! Use your nose for burnt smell. Touch to find Hot components (carefully). Look for black marks indicating arcing. I can't tell you how well that worked for him! __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems after lightning
Ian, It may be a challenge, but can be resolved by doing some orderly troubleshooting. Hopefully, you will not jump around and try to 'shotgun' it - in this case, I think that will only lead to frustration and perhaps incorrect conclusions. Perhaps with a little work on your part and the benefit of your other K2, we can get to the bottom of things. First of all, the most likely thing to have been damaged is the MCU - hopefully you have the same level firmware in both K2s, and you can swap between them to check - but I only mention that at this point, do not do any swapping first, we need to 'set the stage' for further troubleshooting. You first want to remove the KSB2 and the K60XV. Install jumpers in the headers - J9 and J10 between the two outside pins, and a .001 uF capacitor between J11 pin 7 and pin 12. The K60XV removal requires a 4.7 uF capacitor between pins 1 and 3 of J15 and a wire jumper between J13 pins 3 and 5. First check your key for shorts at both the dot and dash contacts with an ohmmeter. It is normal for a K2 to go into transmit as the key plug is inserted, so check the key first and then plug it in before powering on. Does the K2 power up in receive or in transmit? If receive, then it is OK to go on(skip the next paragraph), but if not, stop, power down and check out the key lines from the inside of the K2 (do not remove the key plug) as follows. If it goes immediately to transmit, remove the left side panel and check the resistance to ground at the rearmost end of R1 and R2 - which one is showing zero ohms? If neither, then close the dot side of the paddle - one but not both should go to zero ohms - do the same for the other paddle. All OK? If so, the key jack is acting like it should. Next, remove the capacitor from J11 (the SSB header). The K2 will not transmit without it and no harm will come to the PA transistors with a long period in transmit. Close one side of the paddles for a short string of dots or dashes as heard from the sidetone. Does it go back to receive? If so, try the other paddle, it should also go back to receive when you release the paddle. If it goes to transmit and stays there, check the DC voltages at the anodes of D6 and D7 (this is just a check to see what is going on, it is not the problem). In RX, D7 should have near zero volts and D6 near 8 volts. The opposite should be true for TX (use TUNE to check for that, it is constant rather than dots or dashes). OK, that is enough information to tell me where you should head next to solve the problem. Rather than cluttering up the reflector with troubleshooting that may not apply to anyone else, you may want to take it off-line and report the results back to the list after the problem has been solved. We will get to the bottom of it with enough checking in the right places. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/6/2014 4:45 PM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote: Not a direct hit via the antenna, but the random wire was unplugged, lying on the bench close the the Morse key, through which it discharged!! It took a while for me to identify the 'Tick, tick, tick' which were sparks from the antenna plug jhumping to the Morse key, and not necessarily the grounded bit. My S/N 6905 K2 has 60m, noise blanker and 160m accessories. From switch on, receiver seems to be functioning normally, all receiver function buttons and controls K2 receiver appear to operate. There is no response at all from the MENU button. Symptoms in CW mode: Plug key in and K2 goes immediately into CW tx mode as key jack contacts are made, and stays in tx mode. Power is variable by power control. All controls inoperable until switch off-on, and K2 back in rx mode until key is inserted again. Off-on then pressing TUNE button puts out RF momentarily then drops to nothing. Display stuck showing P 0.1 or some random power level. All controls inoperable until off-on. Presumably when the static got in through the key it did something nasty to some solid-state devices and/or capacitors. I have a no-accessory K2 to use as comparison, but don't know where to start or what to measure. I can swap bits around, but I'm reluctant to do that in case some faulty board or IC does damage on the working K2. This could be a challenge... __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problems
Brent, In cases of lightning damage to the KPA100, I normally just replace all the active devices (transistors, diodes and ICs) on the premise that if not damaged, they have been stressed and will fail later - I do not normally replace the KPA100 PA transistors because they are quite hardy.. The KAT100 does not usually endure damage other than the diodes in the wattmeter and usually the firmware IC, but you can't take my usual observations to heart with lightning damage. Most anything is suspect, so check it all out. Look at the boards - If there is evidence of charring or burning, that area will have to be cleared of carbon and any damaged PC traces replaced with wire repairs. What I am saying is that it is less expensive and easier to assume that all active devices have been damaged and arbitrarily replace then than it is to try to debug exactly the failing component and then endure the frustration of an additional failure a few weeks later when a stressed component fails. Replacing all the ICs in the KPA100 and KAT100 is not really that expensive when compared with the alternative. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/29/2012 6:48 PM, Brent Sutphin wrote: I now have the basic K2 working as it should after replacing the TX finial and bias transistors. Now to move on to the KPA100. Brent - Original Message - From: Brent Sutphin bsutp...@triad.rr.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 9:27 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Problems The symptoms I explained earlier were after an electrical storm that also took out my cable modem and wireless router. The K2 was connected to its antenna but was turned off at the time. It also had the KPA100 and KAT100 installed. I decided to remove the KPA100 and KAT100 to see if I still had the problem with the basic K2. I wanted to see if the high current warning was still there. The high current warning did not come on but the power transistors became very hot very quickly. I was not transmitting. That led me to believe that the power transistors were defective. There very well could be problems with the KPA100 as well. Now I'm not so sure. Brent WB4X __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problems
Brent, With that clarification, yes, I can say that the PA transistors in the base K2 need to be changed. If you ordered the PA transistors from other than Elecraft, I suggest that you do not use those transistors - Order the K2PAKIT from Elecraft and you will receive a matched pair of PA transistors plus 2 2NA transistors to replace those at Q11 and Q13. Do replace the Q11 and Q13 transistors because they often fail either as the cause of the PA failure (the bias goes high) or they are damaged as a secondary effect from excessive voltage on the PA transistor bases. What is happening is that the current draw is exceeding 5 amps and the resettable fuse trips turning power off (that is a good thing). If you have the KPA100, do check D16 and D17 to see if they are damaged. If they do not function properly, the K2 will go to maximum power and that places stress on the base K2 PA transistors. If you do not have the KPA100, but have either the KAT2 or KAT100, they also have wattmeter diodes that can be damaged by static. I would suggest that you install a resistor across all of your feedlines to discharge static charges that can occur from nearby lightning, wind, rain or snow. The common advice is to disconnect the antennas when not in use, but plugging in PL-259s are especially bad because the center conductor makes contact before the shell, and if there is a static charge on the feedline, there is no chance to bleed it off before it zaps those diodes. The protection must be in the feedline rather than in the K2. I use an antenna switch in the shack and switch the transmitters to dummy loads when not in use - my resistors are mounted inside the antenna switch, so I do not have to physically disconnect the antennas, just turn the switch. A resistor of 5k to 100k will be effective. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/24/2012 4:10 PM, Brent Sutphin wrote: I ordered a half dozen of the 1N5711 diodes and finals for the K2 today. I also ordered several of the 2n7000 transistors. I felt like there was some confusion last night after my original post with the nature of my problem. After reading my post today it was easy to understand the confusion. When I turned it on, it came on for a few seconds then a high current warning and then off. I meant to say, I turned it on, it came on for a few seconds before a high current warning and then the radio powered down. If I turn the power off via the front panel power switch and back on it does the same thing again. The K2 finals quickly get very hot as if they are drawing full current, all this in the RX mode not transmitting . I didn't attempt to transmit. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problems
Brent, If I were you, I would order 2 1N5711 diodes (PN E560004). I suspect that your original problem is that KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 were damaged by static, with the result that the KPA100 output was at maximum (150 t0 180 watts) no matter what the power setting. That condition continued for long enough will place stress on the base K2 PA transistors and they will die of overload. I just recently responded to a similar private enquiry, I copy my response below.. Replace Q11 and Q13 since they also can be damaged as a secondary effect. - If you did not try to transmit for long after you saw the HiCur display, the base K2 PA transistors may still be OK. Your main problem is that the KPA100 wattmeter diodes have either shorted or opened, so the K2 can no longer determine power output. Since the K2 MCU thinks there is zero power output, it increases drive to the maximum - an external wattmeter will normally show 150 to 180 watts. That does place stress on the base K2 PA transistors which may fail as a secondary effect. If that describes your situation, replacement of KPA100 D16 and D17 may normally set things in order again. To prevent similar further incidents make certain there is a good DC path across the feedline of all your antennas. Other transceivers do not have this problem will fall on deaf ears here. The other transceivers control power output only by changing the drive to the final stages. Elecraft products actually measure the power at the output stage and control the power output by a closed control loop. That does require sensitive diodes at the output of the PA, but it also means that those diodes are susceptible to static charges on the antenna. Static on the antenna can be caused by wind, rain, sleet, snow or nearby lightning charges. A 2 or 3 watt resistor with a value between 5000 ohms and 100k ohms across each feedline will be a great help in reducing the number of failures of KPA100 wattmeter diodes. -- 73, Don W3FPR On 8/23/2012 7:47 PM, Brent Sutphin wrote: We had a storms in the area here yesterday. Afterwards my K2-100 would not stay on. When I turned it on, it came on for a few seconds then a high current warning and then off. Long story short I determined that the K2 rf power transistors are bad. I plan to order new ones tomorrow. Question is, do I need to look further? Brent WB4X __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problems
I assume you want a non-inductive resistor in this application. Cheers - Bill, AE6JV On 8/23/12 at 17:49, w3...@embarqmail.com (Don Wilhelm) wrote: A 2 or 3 watt resistor with a value between 5000 ohms and 100k ohms across each feedline will be a great help in reducing the number of failures of KPA100 wattmeter diodes. --- Bill Frantz| I like the farmers' market | Periwinkle (408)356-8506 | because I can get fruits and | 16345 Englewood Ave www.pwpconsult.com | vegetables without stickers. | Los Gatos, CA 95032 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problems
Brent, Take it one step at a time; Yes, all could be damaged - the base K3 PA transistors, the KPA100 wattmeter diodes and the KAT100 wattmeter diodes. I feel your pain - I recently had a very close lightning event that did not come in on the antennas, but got me on the Ethernet connections - I lost 4 computers and a router and 2 network switches. Fortunately for backups, I did not loose any data I don't know how hokey your backup mechanism may be, but if it causes you any amount of grief at all, it is better than nothing. All it takes is one event to convince you that regular backups is the only sane answer. Your data is valid, whether that be just email or whether that includes downloads and document files 73, Don W3FPR . On 8/23/2012 9:27 PM, Brent Sutphin wrote: The symptoms I explained earlier were after an electrical storm that also took out my cable modem and wireless router. The K2 was connected to its antenna but was turned off at the time. It also had the KPA100 and KAT100 installed. I decided to remove the KPA100 and KAT100 to see if I still had the problem with the basic K2. I wanted to see if the high current warning was still there. The high current warning did not come on but the power transistors became very hot very quickly. I was not transmitting. That led me to believe that the power transistors were defective. There very well could be problems with the KPA100 as well. Now I'm not so sure. Brent WB4X __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problems
I would probably go with 2 x 1.5KE51CA-ND inverse paralleled across the diode to avoid impedance issues. -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Problems-tp7561545p7561555.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problems
The answer may be in the antenna field. If the SWR is in excess of 2.0:1, then the equipment will reduce power (foldback). 73, Don W3FPR On 8/23/2012 10:45 PM, vk4tux wrote: I would probably go with 2 x 1.5KE51CA-ND inverse paralleled across the diode to avoid impedance issues. -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Problems-tp7561545p7561555.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems
Don and the group, I finally got around to replacing D16 and D17, as usual your diagnosis was spot on. I now have a happy K2 again! Thanks so much for your help. 73 de Allen, W1SBY On 12/7/2010 8:53 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Alan, Remove the KPA100 shield and check the diodes with your ohmmeter. There are other possible faults that could have crept into your KPA100 wattmeter circuits, but the diodes are the first suspects since that is most common. If the diodes check good, then I can help you with the additional troubleshooting balance deleted for brevity __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems
Don, I finally got enough time to do some more tests. The KPA100 is putting out in excess of 100 watts on all bands when set for 30 watts. An interesting thing though... the radio acted fine when I first started testing, then suddenly went to bad behavior. So, my next question just to clarify; Replacing D16 D17 should fix it? Also what may have happened to cause this? You repaired and aligned this radio a couple months ago, (SSB chip was mounted backwards). All was well until I moved my shack to a different room. The ONLY difference in setup was I actually grounded the radio to a ground rod outside the new location. 73 de Allen, W1SBY On 12/4/2010 12:00 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Sorry Alan, That was to be directed to you, and not to James. 73, Don W3FPR --- James, Can you use an external wattmeter between the K2 and the dummy load? With the power control set at greater than 20 watts and less than 50 watts, what is the power read on the external wattmeter when you do a TUNE? If it is 100 watts or greater, then you need to replace D16 and D17 in the KPA100. If the actual power indicated above is in the range of 20 watts, and you still get the HiCur messages, you will have to do a bit more troubleshooting - remove the KPA100 (physically) and power the base K2 through the coaxial power connector and take the ouput to the dummy load from the BNC antenna jack. Set the power at 5 watts and do a TUNE. Do you see a HI CUR warning? If so, what is the actual power output? Next set the power knob to 12 watts and do a TUNE again - if you see HiCur and the output is less than 12 watts, you have a problem with the Low pass filter in the base K3 - but if it occurs on all bands, look for the problem at T4 rather than the low pass filter. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/3/2010 11:06 PM, Allen Wisbey, W1SBY wrote: Hi all, I am having problems with my K2 after moving it from one room to another. K2/100 into a dummy load On all bands I get a HiCur notice when I try to tune, when the PA is disabled (10 watts or less) the SWR shows 1:1 OK On all bands with the PA enabled (over 10 watts) I get the HiCur notice and the SWR indicates a fluctuating range from 3:1 to 9.9 to one depending on band and power setting. In all instances the power out indication is markedly lower than the setting. At 10 watts set, I show 4 watts, at 90 watts set I show 7 watts. I have misplaced my analog wattmeter during the moving process but my LDG autotuner shows that output is actually near or above my settings. Not a good diagnostic tool I know. I think something has definitely gone awry, any ideas on where to start? Thanks, Allen, W1SBY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems
Alan, Remove the KPA100 shield and check the diodes with your ohmmeter. There are other possible faults that could have crept into your KPA100 wattmeter circuits, but the diodes are the first suspects since that is most common. If the diodes check good, then I can help you with the additional troubleshooting. The normal cause for the failure of D16 and D17 is a static discharge coming in on the antenna. If your antenna does not have a DC path across the feedline, that can happen when you connect the antenna if the antenna has developed a static charge from wind, rain, snow, and yes lightning. With a PL-259 UHF connector, the center conductor is normally mated in the jack before the shell, so if you had a good ground on the K2 and a static charge on the feedline, that could zap the diodes. I am not certain that is how it happened, but it is a definite possibility. Is there any way you can put an RF Choke or high value resistor (above 5000 ohms) across your antenna feedlines - if you have an RF switch in the shack, that is a good place for it. Another way is to mount the choke or resistor in a PL-259 shell and add a TEE adapter at the back of the K2 - one of the female ends of the TEE connects to the PL-259 with the resistor and the antenna connects to the other female end. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/7/2010 9:27 PM, Allen Wisbey, W1SBY wrote: Don, I finally got enough time to do some more tests. The KPA100 is putting out in excess of 100 watts on all bands when set for 30 watts. An interesting thing though... the radio acted fine when I first started testing, then suddenly went to bad behavior. So, my next question just to clarify; Replacing D16 D17 should fix it? Also what may have happened to cause this? You repaired and aligned this radio a couple months ago, (SSB chip was mounted backwards). All was well until I moved my shack to a different room. The ONLY difference in setup was I actually grounded the radio to a ground rod outside the new location. 73 de Allen, W1SBY On 12/4/2010 12:00 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Sorry Alan, That was to be directed to you, and not to James. 73, Don W3FPR --- James, Can you use an external wattmeter between the K2 and the dummy load? With the power control set at greater than 20 watts and less than 50 watts, what is the power read on the external wattmeter when you do a TUNE? If it is 100 watts or greater, then you need to replace D16 and D17 in the KPA100. If the actual power indicated above is in the range of 20 watts, and you still get the HiCur messages, you will have to do a bit more troubleshooting - remove the KPA100 (physically) and power the base K2 through the coaxial power connector and take the ouput to the dummy load from the BNC antenna jack. Set the power at 5 watts and do a TUNE. Do you see a HI CUR warning? If so, what is the actual power output? Next set the power knob to 12 watts and do a TUNE again - if you see HiCur and the output is less than 12 watts, you have a problem with the Low pass filter in the base K3 - but if it occurs on all bands, look for the problem at T4 rather than the low pass filter. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/3/2010 11:06 PM, Allen Wisbey, W1SBY wrote: Hi all, I am having problems with my K2 after moving it from one room to another. K2/100 into a dummy load On all bands I get a HiCur notice when I try to tune, when the PA is disabled (10 watts or less) the SWR shows 1:1 OK On all bands with the PA enabled (over 10 watts) I get the HiCur notice and the SWR indicates a fluctuating range from 3:1 to 9.9 to one depending on band and power setting. In all instances the power out indication is markedly lower than the setting. At 10 watts set, I show 4 watts, at 90 watts set I show 7 watts. I have misplaced my analog wattmeter during the moving process but my LDG autotuner shows that output is actually near or above my settings. Not a good diagnostic tool I know. I think something has definitely gone awry, any ideas on where to start? Thanks, Allen, W1SBY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems
James, Can you use an external wattmeter between the K2 and the dummy load? With the power control set at greater than 20 watts and less than 50 watts, what is the power read on the external wattmeter when you do a TUNE? If it is 100 watts or greater, then you need to replace D16 and D17 in the KPA100. If the actual power indicated above is in the range of 20 watts, and you still get the HiCur messages, you will have to do a bit more troubleshooting - remove the KPA100 (physically) and power the base K2 through the coaxial power connector and take the ouput to the dummy load from the BNC antenna jack. Set the power at 5 watts and do a TUNE. Do you see a HI CUR warning? If so, what is the actual power output? Next set the power knob to 12 watts and do a TUNE again - if you see HiCur and the output is less than 12 watts, you have a problem with the Low pass filter in the base K3 - but if it occurs on all bands, look for the problem at T4 rather than the low pass filter. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/3/2010 11:06 PM, Allen Wisbey, W1SBY wrote: Hi all, I am having problems with my K2 after moving it from one room to another. K2/100 into a dummy load On all bands I get a HiCur notice when I try to tune, when the PA is disabled (10 watts or less) the SWR shows 1:1 OK On all bands with the PA enabled (over 10 watts) I get the HiCur notice and the SWR indicates a fluctuating range from 3:1 to 9.9 to one depending on band and power setting. In all instances the power out indication is markedly lower than the setting. At 10 watts set, I show 4 watts, at 90 watts set I show 7 watts. I have misplaced my analog wattmeter during the moving process but my LDG autotuner shows that output is actually near or above my settings. Not a good diagnostic tool I know. I think something has definitely gone awry, any ideas on where to start? Thanks, Allen, W1SBY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems
Sorry Alan, That was to be directed to you, and not to James. 73, Don W3FPR --- James, Can you use an external wattmeter between the K2 and the dummy load? With the power control set at greater than 20 watts and less than 50 watts, what is the power read on the external wattmeter when you do a TUNE? If it is 100 watts or greater, then you need to replace D16 and D17 in the KPA100. If the actual power indicated above is in the range of 20 watts, and you still get the HiCur messages, you will have to do a bit more troubleshooting - remove the KPA100 (physically) and power the base K2 through the coaxial power connector and take the ouput to the dummy load from the BNC antenna jack. Set the power at 5 watts and do a TUNE. Do you see a HI CUR warning? If so, what is the actual power output? Next set the power knob to 12 watts and do a TUNE again - if you see HiCur and the output is less than 12 watts, you have a problem with the Low pass filter in the base K3 - but if it occurs on all bands, look for the problem at T4 rather than the low pass filter. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/3/2010 11:06 PM, Allen Wisbey, W1SBY wrote: Hi all, I am having problems with my K2 after moving it from one room to another. K2/100 into a dummy load On all bands I get a HiCur notice when I try to tune, when the PA is disabled (10 watts or less) the SWR shows 1:1 OK On all bands with the PA enabled (over 10 watts) I get the HiCur notice and the SWR indicates a fluctuating range from 3:1 to 9.9 to one depending on band and power setting. In all instances the power out indication is markedly lower than the setting. At 10 watts set, I show 4 watts, at 90 watts set I show 7 watts. I have misplaced my analog wattmeter during the moving process but my LDG autotuner shows that output is actually near or above my settings. Not a good diagnostic tool I know. I think something has definitely gone awry, any ideas on where to start? Thanks, Allen, W1SBY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Problems With PSK
Jon, How do you have the RTTY FL1 BFOs set? It sounds like you are attempting to use the default settings for the RTTY filter set, and that will not work well. Enter CAL FIL (with the internal probe placed in TP2), and first set RTTY FL1 to the OP1 filter. Then go to SSB and observe the BFO settings (tap BAND-) for both LSB and USB (write them down). Then go back to RTTY mode and set the BFO for RTTY rev to the same value as the USB BFO, and set the RTTY non-rev BFO to the same value as the LSB BFO. That should produce a good signal and a good waterfall display. The FL1 BFOs are used for transmit in all cases, and RTTY will transmit through the filter on the KSB2. FL2 thru FL4 can be set to anything you want because they will only be used during receive. I normally set FL2 to 1.00, FL3 to 0.70 and FL4 to 0.40, then center those filters at 1000 Hz. Attempting to center them higher will cause you to run out of BFO range in RTTY normal. The narrow filters are good for RTTY operation (most others will likely use the full width OP1 filter) - set the Mark frequency in MMTTY (or other RTTY app) to 915 Hz and it will allow you to narrow the filters down so you can avoid QRM (tune with the VFO instead of clicking on the waterfall). If you have questions about using Spectrogram to set your filters, take a look at part 3 of the K2 Dial Calibration article on my website www.w3fpr.com. 73, Don W3FPR On 10/10/2010 8:13 PM, Jon Perelstein wrote: I'm having problems with PSK (and other digital modes) on my K2. CW and SSB seem okay. Rig -- K2/100, KSB2, power set to 20 watts. RTTY (Reverse) for PSK. MFJ-941E Versatuner to a Carolina Windom about 35 ft in the air. SignaLink USB into an Acer Aspire One running Win XP (SP3) On 80/75 meters, I can get a 1.2:1 SWR. CW and SSB look good (good forward power reading on the MFJ). However, with PSK, the best I can get is 5 watts forward showing on the MFJ, but it needs 5 bars of ALC on the K2. With 1 bar of ALC I get about 3 watts out according to MFJ. On 40 meters, I can get a 1.0:1 SWR. CW and SSB look good, and I can get about 8 watts out on PSK with 5 bars of ALC, and about 5 watts with 1 bar. 30 meters is about the same, but with a few more watts, on 20 meters it's still a few more, etc. CW and SSB are good on all the bands. I also tried PSK using SSB (USB) rather than RTTY (Reverse) and got the same results. Anybody have any suggestions about where I should start looking to see what the problem is? Thanks. Jon KB1QBZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Problems With PSK
Don, Do you ever sleep? It seems as if every time I post something, no matter what day, no matter what hour, there's a response from you within a few minutes. hihi Seriously, thanks for your reply. You had me set the RTTY FL1 BFO about a week ago using Spectrogram. At any rate, the problem I'm having happens when doing PSK with mode USB as well with mode RTTY (reverse). Jon KB1QBZ From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com To: Jon Perelstein jpere...@yahoo.com Cc: elecraft reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 8:42:59 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: Problems With PSK Jon, How do you have the RTTY FL1 BFOs set? It sounds like you are attempting to use the default settings for the RTTY filter set, and that will not work well. Enter CAL FIL (with the internal probe placed in TP2), and first set RTTY FL1 to the OP1 filter. Then go to SSB and observe the BFO settings (tap BAND-) for both LSB and USB (write them down). Then go back to RTTY mode and set the BFO for RTTY rev to the same value as the USB BFO, and set the RTTY non-rev BFO to the same value as the LSB BFO. That should produce a good signal and a good waterfall display. The FL1 BFOs are used for transmit in all cases, and RTTY will transmit through the filter on the KSB2. FL2 thru FL4 can be set to anything you want because they will only be used during receive. I normally set FL2 to 1.00, FL3 to 0.70 and FL4 to 0.40, then center those filters at 1000 Hz. Attempting to center them higher will cause you to run out of BFO range in RTTY normal. The narrow filters are good for RTTY operation (most others will likely use the full width OP1 filter) - set the Mark frequency in MMTTY (or other RTTY app) to 915 Hz and it will allow you to narrow the filters down so you can avoid QRM (tune with the VFO instead of clicking on the waterfall). If you have questions about using Spectrogram to set your filters, take a look at part 3 of the K2 Dial Calibration article on my website www.w3fpr.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Problems With PSK
Jon, Yes, I sleep - you will only rarely see a post from me between midnight and 8AM local time. I do check my email periodically throughout the day when I am home, and that is most of the time. Back to your LSB/USB problem. There should be little difference between LSB and USB provided the OP1 filter is somewhat symmetrical and is relatively flat within the passband. You should be able to see that with Spectrogram. Did the LSB and USB passband shape look about the same? If not, then the filter is to blame. Check the capacitors to be certain all are the correct value (CA thru CP). If the capacitors are OK, then first check the soldering in the filter area (re-flow it with a hot iron, adding a tiny bit of new solder and flux). If the passband for LSB and USB are still not close to the same shape, you will have to change to a new matched crystal set (7 crystals). Check the carrier balance in both LSB and USB. If you have a 'scope, you can connect it across the dummy load, and using a sensitive amplitude setting on the 'scope, plug paddles into the key jack (do not connect a mic), close the dot paddle and adjust the carrier balance pot for minimum RF - check both LSB and USB to be certain they are both the same. You can use the S-meter of another receiver to make the same check, but the 'scope is easiest. If the passband shape for USB and LSB are the same, you should have good output no matter which sideband is in use. One temporary solution - BPSK does not care which sideband you use (while others do care), so you can use the one that works well. That does not fix it, but allows you a bit more operating time. 73, Don W3FPR On 10/10/2010 10:22 PM, Jon Perelstein wrote: Don, Do you ever sleep? It seems as if every time I post something, no matter what day, no matter what hour, there's a response from you within a few minutes. hihi Seriously, thanks for your reply. You had me set the RTTY FL1 BFO about a week ago using Spectrogram. At any rate, the problem I'm having happens when doing PSK with mode USB as well with mode RTTY (reverse). Jon KB1QBZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems
Robert, Can I assume correctly that you are asking about U4 and U5 on the RF Board? If so, yes, these are digital signals and yes, the voltages listed are incorrect for normal measurements. If you look with a triggered oscilloscope during the active levels, the voltages will be correct. 73, Don W3FPR Robert Greenwalt wrote: I completed the baseline k2 kit but I seem to have some problems: The Voltage measurements from pg17 of the trouble shooting section differs from what I'm seeing in the receive case: U4 5-pin should be 5 but I get 0 U4 7-pin should be 0 but I get 5 U5 1-pin should be 0 but I get 5 U5 2-pin should be 5 but I get 0. I've traced through - U4, 5-pin is connected to U5-2 and 3 pins on the control board. I've followed the leads and they are clean. I've resistance checked them and everything appears properly connected. I've also checked resistance to ground and U4-5 is not shorted. Likewise U4-7 connets to U5-1 and two chips on the control board. They seem to be digital logic pins, so I wonder if the listed voltage is incorrect? Otherwise it seems one of my chips is bad. Suggestions? Thanks Robert __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.722 / Virus Database: 270.14.122/2590 - Release Date: 12/28/09 02:16:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problems
Hello Nick, Looking for some help please. My K2 has developed some distortion on received signals and without warning the internal speaker (and the external speaker jack) failed to work when turned on -- although headphones still work. I am about to check out the AF amp but wondered if my symptoms ring any bells with long-time K2 owners (I should add that my K2 was damaged by lightning static and these faults possibly spring from that time. Maybe the headphone jack in your K2 is (a little bit) faulty. The contacts for the headphone works sill. But the switcher inside the jack failed. This is the reason why the speacker an the external speacker jack failed too. -- 73/72 de Ingo, DK3RED - Don't forget: the fun is the power! www.qrp4fun.de - dk3...@qrp4fun.de __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problems
The failure mode that Ingo describes is not that unusual in a K2. If you cannot get speaker audio, the phone jack should be one of the first things to check. 73, Steve Kercel AA4AK Ingo Meyer, DK3RED wrote: Hello Nick, Looking for some help please. My K2 has developed some distortion on received signals and without warning the internal speaker (and the external speaker jack) failed to work when turned on -- although headphones still work. I am about to check out the AF amp but wondered if my symptoms ring any bells with long-time K2 owners (I should add that my K2 was damaged by lightning static and these faults possibly spring from that time. Maybe the headphone jack in your K2 is (a little bit) faulty. The contacts for the headphone works sill. But the switcher inside the jack failed. This is the reason why the speacker an the external speacker jack failed too. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problems
Nick, I cannot comment on the distortion with any certainty (would need more information), but the sudden lack of speaker means that the little plastic lever inside the headphone jack has broken - replacement of the headphone jack is the only known cure. If you want a 'work-around', you can place a jumper wire from the junction of R35 and R36 over to pin 1 of the speaker connector (P5). With that jumper, your speaker will be active all the time unless you put a blank 3.5mm plug into the external speaker jack. It is doubtful that the distortion and the lack of speaker audio are related. 73, Don W3FPR Nick Henwood wrote: Looking for some help please. My K2 has developed some distortion on received signals and without warning the internal speaker (and the external speaker jack) failed to work when turned on -- although headphones still work. I am about to check out the AF amp but wondered if my symptoms ring any bells with long-time K2 owners (I should add that my K2 was damaged by lightning static and these faults possibly spring from that time. 73 Nick G3RWF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems
Hello Scott. What is the current the radio draws? Is it possible that there might be an bad soldering or an forgotten one? it`s way to easy to do. 73 de Thomas LA3PNA Den 21. mars. 2008 kl. 22.53 skrev Scott McDowell: Hi I am having some problems with a K2 that I am building that I need some help with. During the part 2 alignment and test I discovered that the BFO wasn't working. While investigating that, the frequency counter and volt meter stopped working. I've been checking on the counter and volt meter and found some voltages that are not right. For instance on the control board U6 microcontroler pin ten has 0 volts instead of 5. Pin 18 has 4.9 volts instead of 0 volts. Pin 24 has 0 volts instead of 5 volts. Pin 25 has 5 volts instead of 0 volts. Pin 33 has 0 volts instead of 5 volts. Should I replace U6, or could the problem be somewhere else that is causing these crazy voltages? Also on CB U2 all the voltages are about half what they should be. CB U7 has 0 volts on pin 5 instead of 5 volts. Pin 6 has 4.94 volts instead of 0 volts. I'm not much of technition, so do I need to throw the whole mess away and start over on a new one? Thanks Scott N5SM _ How well do you know your celebrity gossip? http://originals.msn.com/thebigdebate?ocid=T002MSN03N0707A___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problems
Scott, You apparently have no BFO, and the product detector will not produce output signals without a BFO, so the lack of audio is to be expected with no BFO. To make email communications simpler, look at the RF board schematic sheet 2 and locate the components in the lower right corner (labeled BFO). Check and re-check all those components. If you have a separate set of eyes available, ask that person to examine it too - often someone else can spot a problem that we have overlooked many times. Make the DC voltage checks at U11 just to be sure it has voltage to it in the right places. You can also check L33 for continuity to be certain you have properly soldered those tiny leads to the resistor (actually an insulator with leads). Be certain D36 and D37 are the right types, and are oriented correctly (check the parts placement diagram at the back of the manual to verify orientation). Once you are convinced that all above is correct, build up the RF probe from the parts provided with your K2 and measure the RF voltage at U11 pin 6 (should be 70 mV rms or greater). 73, Don W3FPR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi I'm building a K2 and had a problem with not being able to adjust L30, which I got corrected with Don's help. So all test and alignment procedures have gone as they were supposed to up until the BFO test. I get no frequency reading on TP2, and have no audio from the receiver. I've re-soldered all the joints and checked all components, and there were as they sould be. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 problems
Scott, Go back to the Receive Bandpass filter alignment in the manual. Do not attempt transmit until you have peaked the bandpass filters on receive. If any do not peak, stop and resolve that problem before moving forward. If all bands do not show a proper peak, then you have a problem in the mixer or IF or audio stages somewhere. You may have to resort to the Receiver Signal Tracing steps in the Troubleshooting section of the manual. After the receiver is working properly, then you may move on to the transmit tests. The most likely is that you will find your problem either in the soldering or in a misplaced component. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Well I have K2 #5846 with all components in the enclosure, but it's not doing what I hoped for. Have been trying to align it and this is what I am getting. 80 meters no receive or output. 40 meters 20 watts out and no receive. 30 meters 10 watts out and very weak receive. 20 meters 1 watt out and no receive. 17 meters no output and no receive. 15 meters no output or receive. 12 meters no output or receive. 10 meters no output or receive. The output measured with a heathkit meter, which is very close to being accurate, but not calabrated. On the first power up before begining alignment I had a very weak recieive on 15 meters. The signal source for tuning it is another transceiver with output set to 5 watts. At one time I had a good receive signal on 40 meters but lost it in tuning the other frequencies. I think the problem is in the receiver, but don't know where to start looking. Have checked for cold solder joints several times. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Scott N5SM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.15/581 - Release Date: 12/9/2006 3:41 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 problems
What were your results when completeing each stage of the build? Were the alignment requirements met at each one of those stages? If they were, then you should at least have a good receive on each band. I don't know what would have changed so drastically that you now have no receive at all...not to mention the transmitter. I would probably start at the beginning and do each stage of the realignment again, and if you come to an alignment step that does not meet expectations, start your trouble shooting at that point. Stan Rife W5EWA Houston, TX -Original Message- Well I have K2 #5846 with all components in the enclosure, but it's not doing what I hoped for. Have been trying to align it and this is what I am getting. 80 meters no receive or output. 40 meters 20 watts out and no receive. 30 meters 10 watts out and very weak receive. 20 meters 1 watt out and no receive. 17 meters no output and no receive. 15 meters no output or receive. 12 meters no output or receive. 10 meters no output or receive. The output measured with a heathkit meter, which is very close to being accurate, but not calabrated. On the first power up before begining alignment I had a very weak recieive on 15 meters. The signal source for tuning it is another transceiver with output set to 5 watts. At one time I had a good receive signal on 40 meters but lost it in tuning the other frequencies. I think the problem is in the receiver, but don't know where to start looking. Have checked for cold solder joints several times. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Scott N5SM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.15/581 - Release Date: 12/9/2006 3:41 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
