Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Thanks Gernot. The RF board was already assembled when I bought the unit - I didn’t do any soldering. I’ve spent two days going through the boards with a fine tooth comb (aka strong magnifier) and I can’t find any solder bridges or poorly seated components. I did wake up with an idea in my head at 3am though, so I have another avenue of attack to try this afternoon. Thanks for the suggestions everyone! I’ll post when I’ve tested my idea. 73 -Adrian KJ7SOY > On Feb 16, 2021, at 7:10 AM, g...@gmx.net wrote: > > The resistance checks are meant to measure at U13 after being placed and > soldered. It is not a component check, but it will check if you have done the > placement and soldering of all the connected stuff correctly. IAW, a > different value could mean you did a mistake somewhere else. Visually inspect > the boards, solder joints etc before you pull out the component. In case you > already did it, then just test the 7808 outside of the board. Put 12V to > Pin1, GND to Pin 2 and check if you get 8V at Pin 3. > > Happy building, > Gernot DF5RF > >> Am 14.02.2021 um 22:32 schrieb KJ7SOY: >> Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general. >> Thanks for bearing with me while I learn! >> I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been >> sitting in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags >> since 2009. I’ve hit a snag and I’m hoping someone here can help. >> I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. >> Voltage regulators U12 and U13 are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 >> passes but U13 tests at 87 ohms. This unit has never been powered up so I >> suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a board just fine and >> assemble PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve >> removed the side cover and checked for loose boards, bad connections, etc. >> with no success. Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed? Do I just >> replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? >> Thanks! >> 73 >> -Adrian >> KJ7SOY >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to g...@gmx.net > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to kj7...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
The resistance checks are meant to measure at U13 after being placed and soldered. It is not a component check, but it will check if you have done the placement and soldering of all the connected stuff correctly. IAW, a different value could mean you did a mistake somewhere else. Visually inspect the boards, solder joints etc before you pull out the component. In case you already did it, then just test the 7808 outside of the board. Put 12V to Pin1, GND to Pin 2 and check if you get 8V at Pin 3. Happy building, Gernot DF5RF Am 14.02.2021 um 22:32 schrieb KJ7SOY: Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general. Thanks for bearing with me while I learn! I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been sitting in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags since 2009. I’ve hit a snag and I’m hoping someone here can help. I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. Voltage regulators U12 and U13 are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 passes but U13 tests at 87 ohms. This unit has never been powered up so I suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a board just fine and assemble PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve removed the side cover and checked for loose boards, bad connections, etc. with no success. Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed? Do I just replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? Thanks! 73 -Adrian KJ7SOY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to g...@gmx.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Unassembled Heathkits have sold for amazing amounts of money. (I use the past tense because I doubt there any of those treasures left these days.) I have even heard of people "making" an unassembled kit by buying a built one, taking it apart, unsoldering all the components, and replacing the soldered parts with new ones. Apparently it is financially worthwhile to do that. :=) Alan N1AL On 2/14/2021 4:20 PM, John Oppenheimer wrote: Hi Adrian, welcome to the hobby and to the Elecraft list, Wow, that's quite a collector's item! I'd consider asking Elecraft what they'd charge to assemble and align for you. John KN5L On 2/14/21 3:32 PM, KJ7SOY wrote: Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general. Thanks for bearing with me while I learn! I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been sitting in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags since 2009. I’ve hit a snag and I’m hoping someone here can help. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Hi Adrian, welcome to the hobby and to the Elecraft list, Wow, that's quite a collector's item! I'd consider asking Elecraft what they'd charge to assemble and align for you. John KN5L On 2/14/21 3:32 PM, KJ7SOY wrote: > Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general. > Thanks for bearing with me while I learn! > > I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been > sitting in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags > since 2009. I’ve hit a snag and I’m hoping someone here can help. > > I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. > Voltage regulators U12 and U13 are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 > passes but U13 tests at 87 ohms. This unit has never been powered up so I > suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a board just fine and > assemble PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve > removed the side cover and checked for loose boards, bad connections, etc. > with no success. Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed? Do I just > replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? > > Thanks! > 73 > -Adrian > KJ7SOY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Same as "MAC" for the computer, or an urban legend -- they picked it up somewhere and repeated it and someone else picks it up from them. On Sun, Feb 14, 2021, 17:31 Gwen Patton wrote: > Just don't scream "ham". It's not an acronym, and there's no reason to put > it in all caps. I have no idea why people keep insisting on capitalizing > it? I know it's off-topic, but why do people do that? Does anyone know? > > -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- > 73, > Gwen, NG3P > > > On Sun, Feb 14, 2021 at 5:26 PM Bill Frantz wrote: > > > When I have had issues like this, I have gotten excellent support from < > > supp...@elecraft.com>. > > > > 73 Bill AE6JV > > > > On 2/14/21 at 4:32 PM, kj7...@gmail.com (KJ7SOY) wrote: > > > > > I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. > > Voltage regulators U12 and U13 > > > are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 passes but U13 tests at 87 > > ohms. This unit has never been > > > powered up so I suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a > > board just fine and assemble > > > PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve > > removed the side cover and checked > > > for loose boards, bad connections, etc. with no success. Anyone have > any > > ideas how I should proceed? > > > Do I just replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? > > > > > --- > > Bill Frantz| Re IOT: "How many access control systems does it > take > > www.pwpconsult.com | to change a light bulb?" - Dean Tribble > > > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Message delivered to ard...@gmail.com > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to ju...@juliatuttle.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Just don't scream "ham". It's not an acronym, and there's no reason to put it in all caps. I have no idea why people keep insisting on capitalizing it? I know it's off-topic, but why do people do that? Does anyone know? -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- 73, Gwen, NG3P On Sun, Feb 14, 2021 at 5:26 PM Bill Frantz wrote: > When I have had issues like this, I have gotten excellent support from < > supp...@elecraft.com>. > > 73 Bill AE6JV > > On 2/14/21 at 4:32 PM, kj7...@gmail.com (KJ7SOY) wrote: > > > I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. > Voltage regulators U12 and U13 > > are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 passes but U13 tests at 87 > ohms. This unit has never been > > powered up so I suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a > board just fine and assemble > > PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve > removed the side cover and checked > > for loose boards, bad connections, etc. with no success. Anyone have any > ideas how I should proceed? > > Do I just replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? > > --- > Bill Frantz| Re IOT: "How many access control systems does it take > www.pwpconsult.com | to change a light bulb?" - Dean Tribble > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to ard...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
When I have had issues like this, I have gotten excellent support from . 73 Bill AE6JV On 2/14/21 at 4:32 PM, kj7...@gmail.com (KJ7SOY) wrote: > I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. > Voltage regulators U12 and U13 > are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 passes but U13 tests at 87 ohms. > This unit has never been > powered up so I suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a board > just fine and assemble > PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve removed > the side cover and checked > for loose boards, bad connections, etc. with no success. Anyone have any > ideas how I should proceed? > Do I just replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? --- Bill Frantz| Re IOT: "How many access control systems does it take www.pwpconsult.com | to change a light bulb?" - Dean Tribble __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly voltage regulator failure
Adrian, If you can find no solder bridges, then Yes, replace the regulator. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/13/2021 9:15 PM, KJ7SOY wrote: Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general. Thanks for bearing with me while I learn! I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been sitting in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags since 2009. I’ve hit a snag and I’m hoping someone here can help. I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. Voltage regulators U12 and U13 are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 passes but U13 tests at 87 ohms. This unit has never been powered up so I suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a board just fine and assemble PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed? Do I just replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly slide show
Very nicely done Chuck! 73, Tom - W4BQF -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Charles Yahrling Sent: Tuesday, March 3, 2015 5:38 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly slide show FYI here is a slide show of basic K3-100 kit assembly SN8760. I'm just now calibrating but will add slides later as I open it up again and install KPA3 100W internal amp. If you've never built one or opened yours up this would be a good study to see how easy it is to get various panels off. Note that there are no KANT3, KRX3 or other options in this one. Not yet, anyway. The slide show is at the top of the home page for ab1vl.com. 73, chuck -- de AB1VL NAQCC #6799 ab1vl.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to alderm...@windstream.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.
Hi Eric, Nice log of the build, thanks for sharing! -- Thanks and 73's, For equipment, and software setups and reviews see: www.nk7z.net for MixW support see; http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info for Dopplergram information see: http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info for MM-SSTV see: http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info On Thu, 2014-06-05 at 21:41 -0700, Eric Ross wrote: I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I sure enjoyed the build. https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/ Eric wb7sde __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to d...@nk7z.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.
I received the boxes on Thursday and started Friday evening. I was on the air on Sunday. As you noticed, I had several of the upgrades installed. The basic turn on was done on Saturday. I probably spent about 15 hours total but I went real slow to make sure I didn't screw something up. Eric wb7sde On Fri, Jun 6, 2014, at 05:05 AM, David Cole wrote: Hi Eric, Nice log of the build, thanks for sharing! -- Thanks and 73's, For equipment, and software setups and reviews see: www.nk7z.net for MixW support see; http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info for Dopplergram information see: http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info for MM-SSTV see: http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info On Thu, 2014-06-05 at 21:41 -0700, Eric Ross wrote: I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I sure enjoyed the build. https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/ Eric wb7sde __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to d...@nk7z.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to e...@evross.com -- Eric Ross __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.
This was so helpful, mere words can't describe! Thanks Eric. '73. Brian. Sent from my iPad On 6 Jun 2014, at 05:41, Eric Ross e...@evross.com wrote: I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I sure enjoyed the build. https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/ Eric wb7sde __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to br...@chirpytom.plus.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.
Thanks Eric. I enjoyed going through your photos! Brian KB1VBF (jealous K2 owner) Sent from my iPad On Jun 6, 2014, at 12:41 AM, Eric Ross e...@evross.com wrote: I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I sure enjoyed the build. https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/ Eric wb7sde __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to b.den...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly.
I have always enjoyed the tinkering aspect of amateur radio. Many of us started out building our rigs from old radios and TV's (back in the 50's). The K3 is not difficult for anyone able to follow the detailed and excellent instructions provided. Age alone should not be a pro or con decision makerand yes I am over 70. On Mon, May 27, 2013 at 2:35 PM, Mark n...@verizon.net wrote: I highly recommend building the kit version. Besides saving some money it will also remove any hesitancy in opening the rig up later to add whatever filter or module you may want. To make the build go easier 1. Be sure you have a good philips screwdriver. (No chewed up tip) 2. A well lit work area 3. Anti-static mat 4. Sort the parts out, calipers are handy to separate the various lengths of similar screws. Mark. N2QT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- 73, William (Bill) Rogers / W3UL Annapolis, Maryland U.S.A. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Resistance Check is low
Brian, you are fine. The manual says The following resistance checks confirm that the main power busses in the K3 aren't shorted to ground. Orienting your leads one way shows a very high value of resistance, so there is definitely no short. You will encounter this situation a lot in building and troubleshooting. Your DMM applies a small voltage to the circuit when measuring resistance. Depending upon the circuit you are testing and your DMM, that voltage may cause some junctions in various components to start to turn on, causing the measured resistance to drop. So, when checking for shorts, if you see a marginal reading, reverse the leads and see what happens. If it meets specs that way, you are good to go. 73 Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brian F. Wruble Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 10:26 AM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Resistance Check is low My K3 fails the test on page 45 of the assembly manual. The resistance from a pin on U12 to ground is 447 ohms. One of you asked a question ... was the reading the same with the leads reversed? The answer is no, that reading is about 4.5 kohms, and it acts like the meter is charging a capacitor in that direction. It takes a long time for the meter reading to settle down. I put a fresh battery in the Fluke DMM, and I also tested a batch of 5% tolerance 1/4 watt carbon resistors I had. They all read a little low, none read high, but none were low outside the 5% tolerance. So, my reading of U12 to ground is 10% low. The manual is pretty clear that the resistance must be 500 ohms. What is my next step? Thanks. Brian W3BW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Assembly (again) Front head
That's exactly what I experienced on #474 just after I built it. The washer rattled. There were a few supportive posts here alluding to the same issue at that time. However, Elecraft support said it was something obvious that I had done incorrectly in construction. I went back and retraced all the hardware assembly on my front panel and all was consistent with the manual. Trying to tighten the knurled nut further with my fingers simply deformed the front panel until I released the pressure. All the buttons and other projections were equal in their distance from the front panel and were visually spot on. All functioned perfectly. I ended up putting a small glob of hot glue on the washer to stop the noise. Slept better that night, if nothing else. 73, Terry, W0FM -Original Message- From: Josh Fiden [mailto:j...@voodoolab.com] Sent: Friday, December 28, 2012 8:31 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Assembly (again) Front head I tried that first. In my case it resulted in what I considered an unacceptable deformation of the front panel. Maybe I just had a bad stackup of tolerances. YMMV! 73, Josh W6XU On 12/28/2012 4:14 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Rick, Apply some pressure between the board and the front panel metalwork - Squeeze with thumb and fingers while tightening the knurled nut with the other hand. Tighten until the washer is tight. That method will do no harm. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Assembly (again) Front head
I had the identical issue. After verifying that all other hardware was correct and connectors mated fully, I added an additional thin lock washer on the jack behind the panel to take up the space. I'm sure it wasn't necessary, but the little gap bugged me. 73, Josh W6XU On 12/28/2012 2:51 PM, Rich wrote: Hi all I had nearly finished assembly when I picked up the unit and heard a rattle, process of elimination I found it in the front head unit and its the flat washer between the phones socket and the front panel plate itself. Even with the knurled nut screwed on the front, the flat washer is still loose - is that right?? With everything done up e.g. the DSP board etc it doesn't push it all together enough. Just want to see if this is how it should be? The page in the guide is 41, Thanks Rich __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Assembly (again) Front head
Rick, Apply some pressure between the board and the front panel metalwork - Squeeze with thumb and fingers while tightening the knurled nut with the other hand. Tighten until the washer is tight. That method will do no harm. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/28/2012 5:51 PM, Rich wrote: Hi all I had nearly finished assembly when I picked up the unit and heard a rattle, process of elimination I found it in the front head unit and its the flat washer between the phones socket and the front panel plate itself. Even with the knurled nut screwed on the front, the flat washer is still loose - is that right?? With everything done up e.g. the DSP board etc it doesn't push it all together enough. Just want to see if this is how it should be? The page in the guide is 41, __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Assembly (again) Front head
I tried that first. In my case it resulted in what I considered an unacceptable deformation of the front panel. Maybe I just had a bad stackup of tolerances. YMMV! 73, Josh W6XU On 12/28/2012 4:14 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Rick, Apply some pressure between the board and the front panel metalwork - Squeeze with thumb and fingers while tightening the knurled nut with the other hand. Tighten until the washer is tight. That method will do no harm. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Assembly (again) Front head
I remember having the same problem when I built my K3 about four years ago. It was never going to work without an additional washer which is what I installed. 73 Barry VK2BJ On 29 December 2012 02:31, Josh Fiden j...@voodoolab.com wrote: I tried that first. In my case it resulted in what I considered an unacceptable deformation of the front panel. Maybe I just had a bad stackup of tolerances. YMMV! 73, Josh W6XU On 12/28/2012 4:14 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Rick, Apply some pressure between the board and the front panel metalwork - Squeeze with thumb and fingers while tightening the knurled nut with the other hand. Tighten until the washer is tight. That method will do no harm. 73, Don W3FPR __**__**__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htmhttp://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:elecr...@mailman.qth.**net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly questiion
Hi Rich: If you look at Figure 43, part 2, on that page you'll see both a before and after photo with an oval around the pins in question. Trim the pins on the back side of the board to look like the after. The issue is that if the pins stick out too far above the solder pads, they will short against the adjacent board when the front panel is assembled. 73 Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rich Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2012 11:08 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly questiion Hi all Am hoping someone can answer this one quickly. I am building my K3 at the moment and am on page 32 of the manual just putting in VFO B and I don't understand the instructions. It says 'Cut only the five pins shown close to the back of the pc board so they do not extend above the solder points' Up until now everything has been easy to do but this has stumped me, can someone explain what this means please? Thanks Richard, M5RIC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly questiion
Rich, Does the illustration following that text help at all? They are the short ends of the 5 pin connector. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/23/2012 2:07 PM, Rich wrote: Hi all Am hoping someone can answer this one quickly. I am building my K3 at the moment and am on page 32 of the manual just putting in VFO B and I don't understand the instructions. It says 'Cut only the five pins shown close to the back of the pc board so they do not extend above the solder points' Up until now everything has been easy to do but this has stumped me, can someone explain what this means please? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly, resistance checks
Thanks for curing my builder's paranoia, Ron. That's all it was. :-) Mike ab3ap On Aug 3, 2010, at 11:18 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: ...It sounds like your meter is supplying enough voltage to start to turn some junctions on so they draw more current resulting in a lower resistance, then your meter switches ranges to one with less voltage and they again turn off and so on. Try using a manually-selected fixed range and see how it acts. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Markowski Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 7:57 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly, resistance checks ...Of the 4 checks all are fine except for U12. Instead of getting a resistance reading on my digital meter, it never settles down. It cycles through a range of values up through the Mohm range... __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly, resistance checks
Sounds like a meter issue Mike. All you're looking for there is a short circuit or not. The values given are those that should be the least on normally sees due to normal currents through the circuits, but there are a lot of solid state junctions in the transistors and i.c.s. It sounds like your meter is supplying enough voltage to start to turn some junctions on so they draw more current resulting in a lower resistance, then your meter switches ranges to one with less voltage and they again turn off and so on. Try using a manually-selected fixed range and see how it acts. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Markowski Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 7:57 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly, resistance checks Hi all, In the K3 Assembly Manual Rev L, I reached the point of doing resistance checks on pages 44 and 45. Of the 4 checks all are fine except for U12. Instead of getting a resistance reading on my digital meter, it never settles down. It cycles through a range of values up through the Mohm range. Does this sound like a meter issue or a problem? Thanks for any advice, Mike ab3ap Readings: Across 12 VDC IN: infinite (should be 3 kohms) R36/gnd: 240 ohms ( 150 ohms) U13/gnd: 424 ohms ( 150 ohms) U12/+5V leg: cycles through readings U12/+12V leg: 240 ohms __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly: split lockwasher: #4 same as 4-40 ?
Andrew: Yes they are the same. 73, Doug VE3MV Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 11:38:18 -0400 From: andrew.n...@gmail.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly: split lockwasher: #4 same as 4-40 ? K3 manual Rev L, page 16, references 4-40 split lockwasher and #4 split lockwasher Are these the same? All the inventory pages say #4 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly: split lockwasher: #4 same as 4-40 ?
Andrew, They are the same, although for a washer or lockwasher, the 4-40 is a misnomer, the #4 designation for the hole size is correct, but the -40 refers to the thread pitch, and there are no threads in a washer. Just for additional information, most of the screw hardware in the K3 is 4-40 although there are a few 2-56 size. There is a big difference in the diameter, so you are not likely to mix the two. 73, Don W3FPR Andrew Moore wrote: K3 manual Rev L, page 16, references 4-40 split lockwasher and #4 split lockwasher Are these the same? All the inventory pages say #4 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly / Static Dissipation
Jim, Assuming you have modern electrical wiring (2 wires plus ground) at all your wall receptacles, just connect it to the center screw of a nearby receptacle plate. That is sufficient grounding for anti-static protection. It will not suffice for station grounding for lightning, but that is quite another subject. For anti-static purposes, the important thing is for everything in your work area to be at the same potential, and that is not necessarily earth ground. If you are working on carpet, wearing nylon undies, have a fabric chair or stool, then spray the area and your clothing with an anti-static spray (Static Gard is available at most grocery stores - it is sold for removing static-cling from garments) - that helps tremendously. 73, Don W3FPR Jim Bennett / W6JHB wrote: Hi All, Getting ready to take delivery of my K3/100 kit on Tuesday afternoon and expect to start assembly after I stop slobbering all over the cool box of stuff! I've got a nice anti-static mat and attached wrist connector that I got from Fry's just for this project. That was the good news. The bad news is that I'm unsure where to hook the alligator-terminated ground wire. Obviously, if I was going to do the assembly out in the garage I'd connect it to a copper water or ground pipe. But, I'll probably be doing it here in the corner of my microscopic bedroom. Would an aluminum window frame be of sufficient size / mass to dissipate any static buildup by connecting said ground wire? I've looked around the room and don't see a lot of metal objects to connect to. I did have several long screws put in my leg from a skiing accident last year, but that probably doesn't count!!! :-) Any suggestions? Tnx 73, Jim / W6JHB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly / Static Dissipation
Don (and all) - Thanks for the info. I had totally forgotten about using that center screw terminal on the grounded outlets. D'hhh! Homer Simpson mode after too many Memorial Day cold Heinekens! 73, Jim -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Assembly-Static-Dissipation-tp5123895p5124092.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
My washer was equally loose so I put an extra one in to fill the gap. Then it fitted very snug. Barry VK2BJ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
In a recent message, Barry Simpson vk...@optusnet.com.au writes My washer was equally loose so I put an extra one in to fill the gap. Then it fitted very snug. I had no issue with this personally, but as it is a common problem there would appear to be a need for a compression type spring washer in this position. FWIW 73 David G4DMP -- + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -+ | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds, England | | K1:1117 KX1:0052 K2:1583 XV144 K3:0186 | + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -+ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
Are you shaking the radio? Bob, Yes. That's exactly what I am doing. When I would flip my K3 over onto its back or side during initial assembly and subsequent modifications, the sound of the rattling washer always caused me to stop and check the inside of the radio for potentially lost hardware, connectors, parts, etc. I always shake a radio that I've had apart for service. A few times I actually discovered an errant nut or washer before I reassembled the radio. I spent a lot of unnecessary time checking for the source of this rattle before coming up with the hot glue solution. Now, if I shake the radio during reassembly and hear nothing, I sleep better that night. ;o) 73, Terry, WØFM -Original Message- From: Bob Naumann [mailto:w...@w5ov.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 9:31 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question Exactly what is going on to make this washer rattle? Are you shaking the radio? Sorry - I just don't get it. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
And what's the washer's purpose? Mike wrote: When I built my K3, I was not able to get a tight enough fit between the DSP board and the front panel to keep that thick washer (that goes over the phone jack) from rattling. I pulled the DSP board this morning to send in for the upgrade, and would like to fix the washer when I re-install it. Any tips, or am I making a molehill out of a flat plat? 73, Mike NF4L __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
It was a bit loose on my K3 #1122, but I've seen it as a close fit on other K3's and a slack fit on a couple of others. Mine rattled when the internal speaker was used so I put a little bit of stuff called Blu-Tak on mine to stop it rattling. Subsequently, on removing the DSP from the front panel to make changes, I used a tiny dot of superglue to fix it to the front panel. After finger tightening the nut on the jack socket there's still a tiny gap but it doesn't rattle any more. 73 DaveL G3TJP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
Thanks, David. I'm considering just leaving it out, it seems to serve no purpose. 73, Mike NF4L David Lankshear wrote: It was a bit loose on my K3 #1122, but I've seen it as a close fit on other K3's and a slack fit on a couple of others. Mine rattled when the internal speaker was used so I put a little bit of stuff called Blu-Tak on mine to stop it rattling. Subsequently, on removing the DSP from the front panel to make changes, I used a tiny dot of superglue to fix it to the front panel. After finger tightening the nut on the jack socket there's still a tiny gap but it doesn't rattle any more. 73 DaveL G3TJP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
I think it acts as a spacer and prevents you distorting the board by pulling it too close. Get the nut tight enough and it doesn't rattle 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 -- The trees that are slow to grow bear the best fruit. -Moliere, actor and playwright (1622-1673) On 17 Mar 2010, at 13:04, Mike wrote: Thanks, David. I'm considering just leaving it out, it seems to serve no purpose. 73, Mike NF4L David Lankshear wrote: It was a bit loose on my K3 #1122, but I've seen it as a close fit on other K3's and a slack fit on a couple of others. Mine rattled when the internal speaker was used so I put a little bit of stuff called Blu-Tak on mine to stop it rattling. Subsequently, on removing the DSP from the front panel to make changes, I used a tiny dot of superglue to fix it to the front panel. After finger tightening the nut on the jack socket there's still a tiny gap but it doesn't rattle any more. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
Mike, Do not leave it out. That washer is a spacer. Apply pressure between the board and the front panel metalwork and tighten the nut until the washer is firmly captive. If you have the board plugged in correctly, nothing will be harmed. If you don't have the board pluggin in correctly, it should be obvious because you will not be able to engage the nut on the phone jack. 73, Don W3FPR Mike wrote: Thanks, David. I'm considering just leaving it out, it seems to serve no purpose. 73, Mike NF4L __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
I might add that if the spacer is left off, the DSP board will flex every time the Phone plug is removed and can lead to future failure. 73, Don W3FPR Don Wilhelm wrote: Mike, Do not leave it out. That washer is a spacer. Apply pressure between the board and the front panel metalwork and tighten the nut until the washer is firmly captive. If you have the board plugged in correctly, nothing will be harmed. If you don't have the board pluggin in correctly, it should be obvious because you will not be able to engage the nut on the phone jack. 73, Don W3FPR Mike wrote: Thanks, David. I'm considering just leaving it out, it seems to serve no purpose. 73, Mike NF4L __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2752 - Release Date: 03/17/10 03:33:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
My washer was quite loose on the build of K3 #474. The rattle bothered me on such an otherwise fine piece of engineering. Elecraft service said they had heard of it once before and that I probably didn't have the front panel seated properly. Then I began to read that many others had the problem on their K3's. So I added a dab of hot glue to the washer and it rattles no more. Just FYI, when I snugged the nut down enough to stop the washer from rattling, I could see the front panel visibly bending under the force (fingers only). So I backed the washer off to where it was just snug (and the panel stopped bowing) and went with the hot glue fix. Terry, W0FM -Original Message- From: David Lankshear [mailto:d...@lanks.plus.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:53 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question It was a bit loose on my K3 #1122, but I've seen it as a close fit on other K3's and a slack fit on a couple of others. Mine rattled when the internal speaker was used so I put a little bit of stuff called Blu-Tak on mine to stop it rattling. Subsequently, on removing the DSP from the front panel to make changes, I used a tiny dot of superglue to fix it to the front panel. After finger tightening the nut on the jack socket there's still a tiny gap but it doesn't rattle any more. 73 DaveL G3TJP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
Thanks, Don, If I pull the nut up that tight, I'm afraid I'll distort or break something. I can't measure it right now, but it's a pretty big gap (meaningless phrase, I know). I'll look closer when the DSP board gets back. All it has to do is just touch, right? Mike Don Wilhelm wrote: I might add that if the spacer is left off, the DSP board will flex every time the Phone plug is removed and can lead to future failure. 73, Don W3FPR Don Wilhelm wrote: Mike, Do not leave it out. That washer is a spacer. Apply pressure between the board and the front panel metalwork and tighten the nut until the washer is firmly captive. If you have the board plugged in correctly, nothing will be harmed. If you don't have the board pluggin in correctly, it should be obvious because you will not be able to engage the nut on the phone jack. 73, Don W3FPR Mike wrote: Thanks, David. I'm considering just leaving it out, it seems to serve no purpose. 73, Mike NF4L __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2752 - Release Date: 03/17/10 03:33:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
If I get the nut that tight, for sure I'm going to distort or break something. :-( 73, Mike NF4L David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: I think it acts as a spacer and prevents you distorting the board by pulling it too close. Get the nut tight enough and it doesn't rattle 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
Thanks, Terry, Yeah, I don't want to bend anything. I'm pretty sure the board is seated properly, as it is in contact with the stand-offs. Maybe the stand-offs are a tad long. Don's explanation that the purpose is to keep the DSP board from flexing sounds good, so leaving it out isn't the best idea I've had. If I can't tighten it enough, I m thinking I may stack some more washers with it, making sure they don't contact anything they shouldn't. If it's a problem on more than a coupe (and it seems to be), I'm really surprised that Elecraft hasn't addressed it. 73, Mike NF4L Terry Schieler wrote: My washer was quite loose on the build of K3 #474. The rattle bothered me on such an otherwise fine piece of engineering. Elecraft service said they had heard of it once before and that I probably didn't have the front panel seated properly. Then I began to read that many others had the problem on their K3's. So I added a dab of hot glue to the washer and it rattles no more. Just FYI, when I snugged the nut down enough to stop the washer from rattling, I could see the front panel visibly bending under the force (fingers only). So I backed the washer off to where it was just snug (and the panel stopped bowing) and went with the hot glue fix. Terry, W0FM -Original Message- From: David Lankshear [mailto:d...@lanks.plus.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:53 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question It was a bit loose on my K3 #1122, but I've seen it as a close fit on other K3's and a slack fit on a couple of others. Mine rattled when the internal speaker was used so I put a little bit of stuff called Blu-Tak on mine to stop it rattling. Subsequently, on removing the DSP from the front panel to make changes, I used a tiny dot of superglue to fix it to the front panel. After finger tightening the nut on the jack socket there's still a tiny gap but it doesn't rattle any more. 73 DaveL G3TJP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
On Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:53:00 -, David Lankshear d...@lanks.plus.com wrote: I presume you considered that if there was ever a reason to remove the washer in the future, you may have to damage the front panel to remove it, and decided that was not an important issue. It was a bit loose on my K3 #1122, but I've seen it as a close fit on other K3's and a slack fit on a couple of others. Mine rattled when the internal speaker was used so I put a little bit of stuff called Blu-Tak on mine to stop it rattling. Subsequently, on removing the DSP from the front panel to make changes, I used a tiny dot of superglue to fix it to the front panel. After finger tightening the nut on the jack socket there's still a tiny gap but it doesn't rattle any more. 73 DaveL G3TJP Tom, N5GE K3 #806 with SUB RX, PR6, KRC2 and K144XV K3 #1055 with PR6 and XV432 W1, 2 W2's and other small kits http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
The fitting of the washer is indeed a trivial matter, Tom. It's on the inside of the front panel, so if it had to be chiseled off, the marks wouldn't show and I'm sufficiently competent to use the minimum amount of adhesive to hold it in place. I won't tighten down the nut on the front panel beyond finger tight because it would distort the panel and probably damage the panel coating, besides being quite unnecessary. A gap of a few thou is irrelevant to the washer's fitting and function, but a large gap, such as would remain if the washer was not in place, would potentially stress the DSP board unreasonably, as pointed out by Don. A rattling washer is a nuisance and stopping that by whatever means - adhesive, hotmelt, Blu-tak, chewing gum etc. is a positive contribution to the K3's usability. This topic has gone beyond its sell by date and is now about as useful as QRM. 73 DaveL G3TJP Tom, N5GE wrote: I presume you considered that if there was ever a reason to remove the washer in the future, you may have to damage the front panel to remove it, and decided that was not an important issue. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
Exactly what is going on to make this washer rattle? Are you shaking the radio? Sorry - I just don't get it. -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Lankshear Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 4:38 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question The fitting of the washer is indeed a trivial matter, Tom. It's on the inside of the front panel, so if it had to be chiseled off, the marks wouldn't show and I'm sufficiently competent to use the minimum amount of adhesive to hold it in place. I won't tighten down the nut on the front panel beyond finger tight because it would distort the panel and probably damage the panel coating, besides being quite unnecessary. A gap of a few thou is irrelevant to the washer's fitting and function, but a large gap, such as would remain if the washer was not in place, would potentially stress the DSP board unreasonably, as pointed out by Don. A rattling washer is a nuisance and stopping that by whatever means - adhesive, hotmelt, Blu-tak, chewing gum etc. is a positive contribution to the K3's usability. This topic has gone beyond its sell by date and is now about as useful as QRM. 73 DaveL G3TJP Tom, N5GE wrote: I presume you considered that if there was ever a reason to remove the washer in the future, you may have to damage the front panel to remove it, and decided that was not an important issue. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
Bob, If the washer is loose, vibration can be created by the internal speaker. Just squeeze the board up to the front panel and tighten the nut on the headphone jack - no rattle, no stress when the headphone plug is removed, !no problem!. It seems some owners are overly concerned about a small amount of pressure on the board. It is sufficiently flexible to withstand more stress than you can induce with your fingers and thumb. OTOH, if there is a large gap (more than a millimeter), you have some other problem - check to make sure the connectors are plugged correctly. 73, Don W3FPR Bob Naumann wrote: Exactly what is going on to make this washer rattle? Are you shaking the radio? Sorry - I just don't get it. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly-p32 VFO B Encoder: Trim 5 pins???
Rich, If you will look at the photo #2 at the lower right quadrant of page 32- You will see that what you are to cut are the bits of the pins that stick out of the back of the small board attached to the encoder. Do this before you install the encoder. This is done to prevent these from shorting out to the DSP board after assembly. Trim them nice and flush to the board. 73 and have fun, Bruce N1RX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools
Phil, The DL2 has an included diode detector which can be used in conjunction with a DMM to measure power accurately. and is not very expensive. 73, Don W3FPR Phil Hystad wrote: Don and Chuck, Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it is yet another kit to build but I doubt that I will get such a meter. Well, maybe I will if I can find a cheap working on somewhere. No rush though. I just realized though that I doubt that I have anything that can measure under 5 watts with any degree of accuracy. phil __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools
Phil, Those optional tools are for those who are not satisfied with the default settings - in the case of the 50 uV signal generator, it will allow you to set your S-meter at the S-9 point. My K3 was 'right on' with the default settings, but since I have an XG2, I checked it anyway. The 1 mW, 5 W power meter is for calibrating the wattmeter - if you do not have the KXV3 option, the 1 mW output is not available. Again, the default settings will be very close. So, the question becomes - What degree of accuracy in power output and S-meter reading do you wish to achieve? The default settings will be very close, but with the added instruments, one can achieve a higher degree of confidence in those parameters. Warning - power measurement instruments normally available to hams can vary a lot (up to 20% of full scale), so unless you have something comparable to the Elecraft DL2, Elecraft W2 or a calibrated LP-100 from TelePost, the K3 default setting for the wattmeter are likely to be as good as or better than your ability to read power output. 73, Don W3FPR Phil Hystad wrote: Don, Thanks for the pointer to the XG2 -- yes, that is what I was trying to think of. About them being optional, I did see that but I was curious as to what what gains by the precise adjustments. If the default settings give you a fully working K3, what is being done by those who are making precise adjustments? phil On Dec 11, 2009, at 10:29 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Phil, Note that those are optional - not required, but they are useful if one wants to do the precise adjustments - the default settings will give you a fully working K3. The Elecraft XG2 has a 50 uV output level, look at the Mini Kits. 73, Don W3FPR Phil Hystad wrote: The K3 Assembly guide says that you would need a accurate power meter measuring 1 mW to 5 W. Also, a signal generator calibrated 50 microVolts output at 20 or 40 meters. I have a signal generator that goes up to 5 MHz but I am pretty certain that the voltage adjust does not go down to 50 microVolts (it is pretty cheap). So, where does one get these things. I thought I remember someone telling me that there was a signal generator kit for generating the test signals needed for K3 assembly but I just can grab enough of that memory to do anything with it. Also, these tools are marked optional. Why are they optional and if they are useful for a particular purpose why would it not be a required tool to achieve the best of whatever they are being used for. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools
I didn't use the optional tools when building my K3. I really don't need to have that degree of precision. Just build it and enjoy it. 73, Mike NF4L Phil Hystad wrote: The K3 Assembly guide says that you would need a accurate power meter measuring 1 mW to 5 W. Also, a signal generator calibrated 50 microVolts output at 20 or 40 meters. I have a signal generator that goes up to 5 MHz but I am pretty certain that the voltage adjust does not go down to 50 microVolts (it is pretty cheap). So, where does one get these things. I thought I remember someone telling me that there was a signal generator kit for generating the test signals needed for K3 assembly but I just can grab enough of that memory to do anything with it. Also, these tools are marked optional. Why are they optional and if they are useful for a particular purpose why would it not be a required tool to achieve the best of whatever they are being used for. Thanks, phil, K7PEH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools
Don and Chuck, Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it is yet another kit to build but I doubt that I will get such a meter. Well, maybe I will if I can find a cheap working on somewhere. No rush though. I just realized though that I doubt that I have anything that can measure under 5 watts with any degree of accuracy. phil On Dec 12, 2009, at 4:04 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Phil, Those optional tools are for those who are not satisfied with the default settings - in the case of the 50 uV signal generator, it will allow you to set your S-meter at the S-9 point. My K3 was 'right on' with the default settings, but since I have an XG2, I checked it anyway. The 1 mW, 5 W power meter is for calibrating the wattmeter - if you do not have the KXV3 option, the 1 mW output is not available. Again, the default settings will be very close. So, the question becomes - What degree of accuracy in power output and S-meter reading do you wish to achieve? The default settings will be very close, but with the added instruments, one can achieve a higher degree of confidence in those parameters. Warning - power measurement instruments normally available to hams can vary a lot (up to 20% of full scale), so unless you have something comparable to the Elecraft DL2, Elecraft W2 or a calibrated LP-100 from TelePost, the K3 default setting for the wattmeter are likely to be as good as or better than your ability to read power output. 73, Don W3FPR Phil Hystad wrote: Don, Thanks for the pointer to the XG2 -- yes, that is what I was trying to think of. About them being optional, I did see that but I was curious as to what what gains by the precise adjustments. If the default settings give you a fully working K3, what is being done by those who are making precise adjustments? phil On Dec 11, 2009, at 10:29 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Phil, Note that those are optional - not required, but they are useful if one wants to do the precise adjustments - the default settings will give you a fully working K3. The Elecraft XG2 has a 50 uV output level, look at the Mini Kits. 73, Don W3FPR Phil Hystad wrote: The K3 Assembly guide says that you would need a accurate power meter measuring 1 mW to 5 W. Also, a signal generator calibrated 50 microVolts output at 20 or 40 meters. I have a signal generator that goes up to 5 MHz but I am pretty certain that the voltage adjust does not go down to 50 microVolts (it is pretty cheap). So, where does one get these things. I thought I remember someone telling me that there was a signal generator kit for generating the test signals needed for K3 assembly but I just can grab enough of that memory to do anything with it. Also, these tools are marked optional. Why are they optional and if they are useful for a particular purpose why would it not be a required tool to achieve the best of whatever they are being used for. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools
The Elecraft dummy load DL1 can be used as a watt meter, using a DMM. Peter On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 8:33 AM, Phil Hystad k7...@comcast.net wrote: Don and Chuck, Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it is yet another kit to build but I doubt that I will get such a meter. Well, maybe I will if I can find a cheap working on somewhere. No rush though. I just realized though that I doubt that I have anything that can measure under 5 watts with any degree of accuracy. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools
Sometimes learning to achieve greater precision for its own sake can be an enjoyable and educational pursuit, even if it makes no significant difference in how the rig performs on the air. And then there are the occasional Hams who are using their rigs in a special way that wants greater precision for their own satisfaction. One example that turns up here regularly is a QRP operator who wants to know the output power with high precision in order to run as close to 5 watts as possible while feeling confident his power does not exceed 5 watts. Others here have done careful adjustment of the AGC/S-meter to make the K3's meter match another rig's meter or a standard of their own. Those are just two of several threads I recall in recent months. Those optional calibration and adjustments are there for them, if they choose to pursue them. Ron AC7AC - Don, Thanks for the pointer to the XG2 -- yes, that is what I was trying to think of. About them being optional, I did see that but I was curious as to what what gains by the precise adjustments. If the default settings give you a fully working K3, what is being done by those who are making precise adjustments? phil __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools
Phil, The DL2 has an included diode detector which can be used in conjunction with a DMM to measure power accurately. and is not very expensive. 73, Don W3FPR Phil Hystad wrote: Don and Chuck, Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it is yet another kit to build but I doubt that I will get such a meter. Well, maybe I will if I can find a cheap working on somewhere. No rush though. I just realized though that I doubt that I have anything that can measure under 5 watts with any degree of accuracy. phil __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools
Phil, Note that those are optional - not required, but they are useful if one wants to do the precise adjustments - the default settings will give you a fully working K3. The Elecraft XG2 has a 50 uV output level, look at the Mini Kits. 73, Don W3FPR Phil Hystad wrote: The K3 Assembly guide says that you would need a accurate power meter measuring 1 mW to 5 W. Also, a signal generator calibrated 50 microVolts output at 20 or 40 meters. I have a signal generator that goes up to 5 MHz but I am pretty certain that the voltage adjust does not go down to 50 microVolts (it is pretty cheap). So, where does one get these things. I thought I remember someone telling me that there was a signal generator kit for generating the test signals needed for K3 assembly but I just can grab enough of that memory to do anything with it. Also, these tools are marked optional. Why are they optional and if they are useful for a particular purpose why would it not be a required tool to achieve the best of whatever they are being used for. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools
Don, Thanks for the pointer to the XG2 -- yes, that is what I was trying to think of. About them being optional, I did see that but I was curious as to what what gains by the precise adjustments. If the default settings give you a fully working K3, what is being done by those who are making precise adjustments? phil On Dec 11, 2009, at 10:29 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Phil, Note that those are optional - not required, but they are useful if one wants to do the precise adjustments - the default settings will give you a fully working K3. The Elecraft XG2 has a 50 uV output level, look at the Mini Kits. 73, Don W3FPR Phil Hystad wrote: The K3 Assembly guide says that you would need a accurate power meter measuring 1 mW to 5 W. Also, a signal generator calibrated 50 microVolts output at 20 or 40 meters. I have a signal generator that goes up to 5 MHz but I am pretty certain that the voltage adjust does not go down to 50 microVolts (it is pretty cheap). So, where does one get these things. I thought I remember someone telling me that there was a signal generator kit for generating the test signals needed for K3 assembly but I just can grab enough of that memory to do anything with it. Also, these tools are marked optional. Why are they optional and if they are useful for a particular purpose why would it not be a required tool to achieve the best of whatever they are being used for. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly video - 7 minutes!
Dick Dievendorff wrote: Maybe this is old news, but it's an amusing video. I obviously spent way too much time assembling mine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfUMZcwtIyw You must not have used those Scott Joplin CDs. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Question
Refer to page 67 of the Rev G or H manual for more information about where the wattmeter or sig generator are used. They are entirely optional, as the text explains, but some builders want to perform the calibration procedures requiring them anyway. There are a variety of ways to measure 1 MW other than an actual power meter. A good oscilloscope is one option. As an aside, the K3 with the KXV3 module providing milliwatt level output makes a nice signal generator for bench testing :-) Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I'm considering ordering a K3 kit soon. I wonder how 'optional' these items listed in the assembly manual really are: Optional Equipment: 1. RF Power Meter with accurate readout from 1 mW to 5 watts, minimum. 2. Signal generator with calibrated 50 uV output at 20 or 40 meters. I have a Bird 43 wattmeter, but don't know of any element in the HF range that would read 1 mW. --Dave, W8OV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Question
Serious QRO. | perform the calibration procedures requiring them anyway. There are a | variety of ways to measure 1 MW other than an actual power meter. A good | oscilloscope is one option. Regards, Mike VP8NO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Question
A very big oscilloscope attenuator for a megawatt, I agree ;-) Ron -Original Message- Serious QRO. | perform the calibration procedures requiring them anyway. There are a | variety of ways to measure 1 MW other than an actual power meter. A good | oscilloscope is one option. Regards, Mike VP8NO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Question
Dave, W8OV wrote: I'm considering ordering a K3 kit soon. I wonder how 'optional' these items listed in the assembly manual really are: Optional Equipment: 1. RF Power Meter with accurate readout from 1 mW to 5 watts, minimum. 2. Signal generator with calibrated 50 uV output at 20 or 40 meters. Thanks to all who have responded in such a helpful manner. 73 de Dave, W8OV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Question
You don't need a wattmeter. If you have one, you can set the K3 so that its internal watt meter matches yours (at 5 and/or 50 watts). You don't need a 1 mw wattmeter. You don't really need a signal generator. Dick, K6KR -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave, W8OV Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 8:48 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Question I'm considering ordering a K3 kit soon. I wonder how 'optional' these items listed in the assembly manual really are: Optional Equipment: 1. RF Power Meter with accurate readout from 1 mW to 5 watts, minimum. 2. Signal generator with calibrated 50 uV output at 20 or 40 meters. I have a Bird 43 wattmeter, but don't know of any element in the HF range that would read 1 mW. --Dave, W8OV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Question
Dave, Those pieces of equipment are entirely optional. They are not required at all. In fact the 1 mW level is only used if you include the KXV3 option. The Power Meter can be used to obtain more accurate power calibration (but the K3 does a good job of it without that meter), and the signal generator is only used to obtain precise adjustment of the S-meter response - again, the stock S-meter response is adequate for most purposes - if you want a truly calibrated S-meter, then the generator can be used - the Elecraft XG2 will do that job nicely. 73, Don W3FPR Dave, W8OV wrote: I'm considering ordering a K3 kit soon. I wonder how 'optional' these items listed in the assembly manual really are: Optional Equipment: 1. RF Power Meter with accurate readout from 1 mW to 5 watts, minimum. 2. Signal generator with calibrated 50 uV output at 20 or 40 meters. I have a Bird 43 wattmeter, but don't know of any element in the HF range that would read 1 mW. --Dave, W8OV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Frank, it's not 'on the List' anymore, it's been implemented in F/W for quite a while now. You can read all about it if you search for quick memories in the pdf version of the K3 User Manual. You can find all details on page 16, about halfway down the left column (Memories 00-09 are quick memories). Works like a charm, especially with the four in band memories M1-M4 which you can use to store different frequencies modes within each band. Try it, I'm sure you'll like it. 73 es GL Glenn ON4WIX - Original Message - From: W6NEK w6...@socal.rr.com To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 2:02 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly That is an outstanding suggestion Joe! Simple and elegant. I hope it makes it to The List! Frank- W6NEK - Original Message - From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly SNIP All that's necessary is to set MEM 0-9 to Band Sel in the configuration menu. After that, M-V followed by 1 through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each band 160 - 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14, 6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz). 73, ... Joe, W4TV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.41/2040 - Release Date: 04/03/09 17:54:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Yeah, band buttons would be nice if the panel were larger. But there is a good work-around that doesn't require a computer. If you're new here, you may have missed it. Just use quick-recall memories 0-9. This results in two taps instead of one (MV, n) but it sets you up with all variables the way you want them. I use this mnemonic: Memory 0=160, 1=10, 2=20, 3=30, 4=40, 5=15, 6=60, 7=17, 8=80, 9=12. (That last one isn't really mnemonic.) Some folks go in frequency sequence. Take the time to set up exactly what you want in both VFOs on each band. I put my favorite CW freq in VFO A, my favorite SSB freq in VFO B and set up AGC and DSP parameters just the way I (usually) like them. It's a breeze once you get it set up. /Rick N6XI On 4/3/09, John N1JM jlmerr...@cox.net wrote: My only quibble is that I wish it had band buttons( and yes, I know, there is software for that and I use HRD) and band stacking registers. I just don't like a radio tied to a Mac(or PC) all the time, otherwise I might have a Flex :-). But it sure beats my PRO3 and TS480. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Yeah, band buttons would be nice if the panel were larger. But there is a good work-around that doesn't require a computer. If you're new here, you may have missed it. Just use quick-recall memories 0-9. This results in two taps instead of one (MV, n) but it sets you up with all variables the way you want them. All that's necessary is to set MEM 0-9 to Band Sel in the configuration menu. After that, M-V followed by 1 through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each band 160 - 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14, 6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz). 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick Tavan N6XI Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:41 PM To: John N1JM Cc: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Yeah, band buttons would be nice if the panel were larger. But there is a good work-around that doesn't require a computer. If you're new here, you may have missed it. Just use quick-recall memories 0-9. This results in two taps instead of one (MV, n) but it sets you up with all variables the way you want them. I use this mnemonic: Memory 0=160, 1=10, 2=20, 3=30, 4=40, 5=15, 6=60, 7=17, 8=80, 9=12. (That last one isn't really mnemonic.) Some folks go in frequency sequence. Take the time to set up exactly what you want in both VFOs on each band. I put my favorite CW freq in VFO A, my favorite SSB freq in VFO B and set up AGC and DSP parameters just the way I (usually) like them. It's a breeze once you get it set up. /Rick N6XI On 4/3/09, John N1JM jlmerr...@cox.net wrote: My only quibble is that I wish it had band buttons( and yes, I know, there is software for that and I use HRD) and band stacking registers. I just don't like a radio tied to a Mac(or PC) all the time, otherwise I might have a Flex :-). But it sure beats my PRO3 and TS480. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Wow that was fast! It's already in there! Guess it's time to review all the menu settings. Who knows what other nifty things I'll find! Red faced, Frank - W6NEK - Original Message - From: W6NEK w6...@socal.rr.com To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 5:02 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly That is an outstanding suggestion Joe! Simple and elegant. I hope it makes it to The List! Frank- W6NEK - Original Message - From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly SNIP All that's necessary is to set MEM 0-9 to Band Sel in the configuration menu. After that, M-V followed by 1 through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each band 160 - 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14, 6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz). 73, ... Joe, W4TV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Frank, No need for it to go on The List - it is reality now. You can set it up for any combination of 'which 0-9 button corresponds to each band' - make your own decisions on that. See Quick Memories in the manual, the CONFIG:MEM 0-9 and CONFIG: BAND SEL in the menu listing. There is also information retaining the last used frequency addition in the firmware release notes. 73, Don W3FPR W6NEK wrote: That is an outstanding suggestion Joe! Simple and elegant. I hope it makes it to The List! Frank- W6NEK - Original Message - From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly SNIP All that's necessary is to set MEM 0-9 to Band Sel in the configuration menu. After that, M-V followed by 1 through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each band 160 - 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14, 6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz). __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
That is an outstanding suggestion Joe! Simple and elegant. I hope it makes it to The List! Frank- W6NEK - Original Message - From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly SNIP All that's necessary is to set MEM 0-9 to Band Sel in the configuration menu. After that, M-V followed by 1 through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each band 160 - 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14, 6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz). 73, ... Joe, W4TV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
I suspect many of us had some degree of fear factor when lowering the subrx into the depths for the first time. If you look carefully at how it's aligned, it would be really difficult to get it wrong. This isn't apparent during the first attempt though. And yes - a terrific radio is the K3. It's very cool to have a radio that you can add features into whether they're firmware or hardare. Basic performance with/without all the available features makes it worth owning just a plain jane K3/10 though... Enjoy! 73, matt W6NIA K3 #24 (subrx was my last addition a couple months ago) On Fri, 03 Apr 2009 21:33:37 -0700 (PDT), you wrote: After 2 months sitting on the bench and 2 weeks of on and off assembly, I finally have my K3/KPA3/KRX3, etc., up and running. I was a little apprehensive about lowering the sub receiver into the radio with all the RF cables in the way and difficulty in seeing the sub-in and sub-out connectors, but it went in relatively smoothly. So far it is a terrific radio. My only quibble is that I wish it had band buttons( and yes, I know, there is software for that and I use HRD) and band stacking registers. I just don't like a radio tied to a Mac(or PC) all the time, otherwise I might have a Flex :-). But it sure beats my PRO3 and TS480. 73, John N1JM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly, Resistance Checks
You are fine. Fire it up. 73, Steve NN4X On Wed, Jan 21, 2009 at 10:04 PM, Walter V. Gilles wvgil...@yahoo.comwrote: Greetings, K3/100 assembly in work. I just did the four resistance checks that verify the power buses are not shorted to ground. All R measurements exceeded the minimums specified. However, that kind of leaves a big range of what constitutes nominal values. Can anybody provide what are typically nominal values for these? Below are what I measured on my particular K3 with respect to minimums required. 1. 12VDC IN connectors. Required: 50K ohms Measured: 20M ohms (out of range) 2. Between R36 (test point) and ground. Required: 150 ohms Measured: 234 ohms. 3. Between U12 (test point) and ground. Required: 500 ohms Measured: 4.8K ohms. 4. Between U13 (test point) and ground. Required: 150 ohms Measured: 423 ohms. Thanks much. Any advice appreciated. Walter, N0DZJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly, Resistance Checks
All are good. The next rev of the assembly manual reduces that 50K ohm value. Ron AC7AC From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Walter V. Gilles Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 7:05 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly, Resistance Checks Greetings, K3/100 assembly in work. I just did the four resistance checks that verify the power buses are not shorted to ground. All R measurements exceeded the minimums specified. However, that kind of leaves a big range of what constitutes nominal values. Can anybody provide what are typically nominal values for these? Below are what I measured on my particular K3 with respect to minimums required. 1. 12VDC IN connectors. Required: 50K ohms Measured: 20M ohms (out of range) 2. Between R36 (test point) and ground. Required: 150 ohms Measured: 234 ohms. 3. Between U12 (test point) and ground. Required: 500 ohms Measured: 4.8K ohms. 4. Between U13 (test point) and ground. Required: 150 ohms Measured: 423 ohms. Thanks much. Any advice appreciated. Walter, N0DZJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 assembly problem
The connectors are very tight, Mike, especially when mating them for the first time. Are the connectors on the bottom of the RF board mating properly with the connectors on the front panel assembly (not offset to one side or the other by a pin)? They're shown in Fig 59 of the Rev E assy manual. Is the screw out of the 2D fastener (Fig 60 of the Rev E assy manual)? It tends to hang up on the edge of the main DSP board near the mic connector if it's in place when mounting the FP assy. Ron AC7AC From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Barbara Maloney Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 4:07 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly problem Hi, Has anyone else had big difficulty getting the front panel connector jacks to match up with the plugs on the RF board when installing the front panel? The problem appears to be the plug behind the mic connector (p50) not wanting to mate. Pins appear to be straight and equally spaced like the other side. Very frustrating in that you cant see thru the RF board or shield to see what is preventing the connection. From the side (mic connector end) I can see that the pins appear to line up, as well as, thru the hole in the RF board on the inside end of the plug. But still NO GO after several attempts. Any suggestions? Mike, AC5P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Special Tools or Gotchas
Sounds like yours wont fall out then - which is an issue SOME people have with APPs. Lots of alternatives to using the pin, including not using anything (they stay together pretty well) - to using hot-melt glue in the hole, which quite easy to undo when you want to take the connectors apart for any reason 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 -- When one door closes another door opens; but we so often look so long and so regretfully upon the closed door, that we do not see the ones which open for us. -Alexander Graham Bell, inventor (1847-1922) On 27 Aug 2008, at 12:25, Bob DeHaney wrote: I had never seen a Power Pole connector and there are no specific instructions except for soldering and contact alignment. My problem was inserting the small pin that holds the connector together. At first I tried pressing it in using needle nose pliers and it spoinged away in some direction. I found it behind the couch 5 days later when it refused to go into the vacuum cleaner. The second time my lady found it all the way across the room. My solution was to align the connector halves, hold the pin in place with needle nose pliers, and whack it with a small hammer. Perfect!! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Special Tools or Gotchas
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 13:25:06 +0200, Bob DJ0MBC/WU5T wrote: My solution was to align the connector halves, hold the pin in place with needle nose pliers, and whack it with a small hammer. Perfect!! Vy 73, Bob DJ0MBC/WU5T Oh, yeah... I forgot about the power cable. I also had never seen a powerpole connector before. After the big discussion months ago I decided to just order the crimped cable with my kit. Weirdly, the power pole connectors were the first thing I searched for when I opened my K3 package-- I had to see what all the squawking was about! I recalled numerous other times fooling around with connectors and cables when I was itching to get some piece of electonic gear going, even resorted to machining my own connector housings in one case when I had none on hand! So, with a freshly assembled K3 begging to be powerd up...? No thanks! I really enjoyed putting the K3 together, but soldering the cable connectors (and counting sorting screws washers) was more fun than I needed to have... 73, Drew AF2Z ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Special Tools or Gotchas
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:48:11 -0400, drewko wrote: Oh, yeah... I forgot about the power cable. Power Pole connectors are VERY easy to wire and put together once you understand how they work. You do NOT need any special tools beyond what you would need for any common soldered connector. I've long ago converted all my DC wiring to Power Poles, including all the wall warts that run computer equipment and miscellaneous electronics. 73, Jim K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Special Tools or Gotchas
What do you use at the other end? I have a single sturdy powersupply that I'm using for 4 devices. It doesn't really look good with all the bananaplugs connected together... 73 Svend, OZ7UV Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:48:11 -0400, drewko wrote: Oh, yeah... I forgot about the power cable. Power Pole connectors are VERY easy to wire and put together once you understand how they work. You do NOT need any special tools beyond what you would need for any common soldered connector. I've long ago converted all my DC wiring to Power Poles, including all the wall warts that run computer equipment and miscellaneous electronics. 73, Jim K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com TDC Bredbånd for 0 kr. - Spar 695 kr. Se http://tdc.dk/freemailtilbud/ Denne mail er sendt via Mail på TDC Online - Læs mere om TDC's mailtjeneste på http://mail.tdconline.dk/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover!
According to the assembly manual page 55, The NOTE states The three screws marked A must be 1/4 black pan head with inside tooth lock washers under the screw heads. Also read the CAUTION. Bob Serwy - N9RS Bob Serwy - N9RS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 6:51 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover! Hey gang, Just spent 4 hours assembling K3 s/n 1318 and all went well except for one slight but potentially serious hardware problem. When installing the bottom heat sink cover over the LPA I noticed that the required 4-40 x 1/4 screws bottomed out in the standoffs under the TO-220 LPA transistors before they would compress the cover to the transistors (and yes I can measure screw lengths). This will leave a gap between the transistor and the heatsink and not provide proper heat sinking! It is strange to note that one of the Manual Errata changes was to point out that the heat sink cover was slightly thicker than the other bottom cover. Wonder if this part has changed? Any way, I added 3 #4 stainless steel flat washers under the screw heads and that allows the screws to fully compress the heat sink against the transistors. For a belts and suspenders fix I also added a dab of heat sink compound to the transistors as well. I did not check the screws coming from the top side of t! ! he LPA assy to see if the factory may have used the wrong/longer screws taking up extra standoff threads. A #4 split washer could have also been left off of this top side screw and create the same issue or tol. stack up of the parts? Any way HEADS UP! 73, Rodger N4NRW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover!
Rodger, I assembled my K3 a couple of weeks ago (s/n 1217), and did not experience your problem. The three transistors clamped nicely against the (thicker) bottom cover using only the hardware specified in the instructions. As I recall, there are both 3/16 and 1/4 screws in the kit. You sure you've used the correct screws everywhere? Took me about 10-11 hours to assemble my K3 (100W). I'm amazed you could do it only 4 hours! 73, Jim W8ZR Hey gang, Just spent 4 hours assembling K3 s/n 1318 and all went well except for one slight but potentially serious hardware problem. When installing the bottom heat sink cover over the LPA I noticed that the required 4-40 x 1/4 screws bottomed out in the standoffs under the TO-220 LPA transistors before they would compress the cover to the transistors (and yes I can measure screw lengths). This will leave a gap between the transistor and the heatsink and not provide proper heat sinking! It is strange to note that one of the Manual Errata changes was to point out that the heat sink cover was slightly thicker than the other bottom cover. Wonder if this part has changed? Any way, I added 3 #4 stainless steel flat washers under the screw heads and that allows the screws to fully compress the heat sink against the transistors. For a belts and suspenders fix I also added a dab of heat sink compound to the transistors as well. I did not check the screws coming from the top side of the LPA assy to see if the factory may have used the wrong/longer screws taking up extra standoff threads. A #4 split washer could have also been left off of this top side screw and create the same issue or tol. stack up of the parts? Any way HEADS UP! 73, Rodger N4NRW ft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover!
Thanks Bob! I bet this is it. At midnight I was beginning to go cross eyed. I must have missed the internal tooth lock washers! Better RF ground this way as well. Thanks Gang! 73, Rodger N4NRW Original message Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 07:06:04 -0500 From: Bob Serwy [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover! To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] According to the assembly manual page 55, The NOTE states The three screws marked A must be 1/4 black pan head with inside tooth lock washers under the screw heads. Also read the CAUTION. Bob Serwy - N9RS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 6:51 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover! Hey gang, Just spent 4 hours assembling K3 s/n 1318 and all went well except for one slight but potentially serious hardware problem. When installing the bottom heat sink cover over the LPA I noticed that the required 4-40 x 1/4 screws bottomed out in the standoffs under the TO-220 LPA transistors before they would compress the cover to the transistors (and yes I can measure screw lengths). This will leave a gap between the transistor and the heatsink and not provide proper heat sinking! It is strange to note that one of the Manual Errata changes was to point out that the heat sink cover was slightly thicker than the other bottom cover. Wonder if this part has changed? Any way, I added 3 #4 stainless steel flat washers under the screw heads and that allows the screws to fully compress the heat sink against the transistors. For a belts and suspenders fix I also added a dab of heat sink compound to the transistors as well. I did not check the screws coming from the top side of t! ! he LPA assy to see if the factory may have used the wrong/longer screws taking up extra standoff threads. A #4 split washer could have also been left off of this top side screw and create the same issue or tol. stack up of the parts? Any way HEADS UP! 73, Rodger N4NRW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Assembly Issue - U12 Test
Mine measured either 6K or 60K ohms (can't read my own scribbling) according to a marginal note in the assembly manual. 73, Ken K3IU K3 #202 ~ Joe Word wrote: My resistance test (page 39) on U12 is less than the 500 ohms per manual. It is 350 to 400 ohmn (different scales on digital meter). My analog meter shows 270 ohms. Anyone else had this issue? I emailed support, but thought I would check here also. K3 S/N 841 Joe N9VX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Assembly manual question
Here is what I did I printed out the manual and read it through several times. Even thought I did that, some things did not make sense until I have the part in hand and could actually see what was going on. I guess I am a visual person. I took notes and wrote in the manual and did some highlighting. I also put tabs in so I could find information quickly. The manual does come with the parcel, but I left that alone to have a pristine copy of the manual. Lee - K0WA In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Assembly manual question
In a message dated 15/04/2008 16:43:25 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: A cardinal rule at Elecraft is that the manuals are written by someone who has actually done the procedures, usually several times! If it's operating information, that's Wayne on the K3. If it's assembly procedures it's myself. So thats how you produce such wonderful Manuals! That way the process and how to describe each step is based on real-life hands-on experience doing it. Because each step of the procedure is based on real life and *not* what I like to call a thought experiment (a thought experiment is when someone sits back and imagines how it should work), sometimes the way a step is worded looks strange until you have the parts in hand. Very true I found having the colour version on the screen as well as the book in front of me enabled me to see three pages at once and save turning over. 73 Alan G8FMH k3 #540 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3, assembly, use of DeoxIT/DeoxIT Gold
I have used Caig Labs Red and Blue liquid for years and it was used in all of the AM, FM and TV transmitters by our staff. They swore by it and made me aware of it 30++ years ago. I have a small bottle of the BLUE 100% liquid which they don't sell any longer because of some EPA regulation I guess. I used it with a piece of Q-tip lightly wetted and swabbed all of the male pins before installing the boards. They mate more easily and will maintain better conductivity with this product applied. The DeoxIt should be about the same product but haven't used it much. You could contact the Caig factory and ask their advice. I wiped the Blue 100% liquid on my Heathkit tuner roller inductor. That kit was built many years ago and it looks like new today and makes no electrical noise at all when tuning it. In case anybody is curious the Red cleans and improves conductivity and the Blue just protects and maintains conductivity. No cleaning! I was assistant Chief Enginer for 17 years out of 28 years with a major broadcast operation. Learned a lot from the old transmitter engineer. Roger Walter Gilles wrote: Does anybody have any experience using or thoughts on using Caig Lab's DeoxIT or DeoxIT Gold (or similar) products while assembling their K3? I have had good outcomes using these and other Caig Labs products in a professional venue both in preventive and corrective maintenance functions, especially in critical hardware where you just didn't want to go back into the equipment due to aging or contamination issues downstream. Since I'll probably be into my K3 periodically for (authorized) mods, upgrades et al, I am more interested in the lubrication aspect on cable/board connectors than oxidation issues near-term. Of course, there is the oxidation/contamination protection long-term as well. I realize that use of these or similar products are probably unwarranted for a new K3 assembly, but can anybody think of a downside to this approach, assuming correct use of the products? Thanks. Walter N0DZJ You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K3%2C-assembly%2C-use-of-DeoxIT-DeoxIT-Gold-tp16467037p16472584.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3, assembly, use of DeoxIT/DeoxIT Gold
There was a LOT of discussion on this list for this very topic last year. Run a search on the archives to uncover everyone's thoughts. 73, Mike KW1ND ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Ken, you will need to procure your anti-static mat and wrist strap from a separate source. 73 Ed, N0EHQ Is the kit sent with an antistatic mat and ground wrist band, or should the buyer purchase these items elsewhere? Ken K5WK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly
On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 16:39:31 EST, you wrote: It may also be helpful to mention that using the correct size philips head is very important in maintaining the appearance of the rig. It's worth the rip to the tool store with a screw in your pocket to get a new driver with a large enough tip to fit snuggly. There is such a wide variety of screwdrivers available, that even the size number printed on the driver is not a good indication. I've had many a #1 driver with too sharp a tip to get a tight fit, the result is slippage and a damaged screw head and loose screw. The screw drivers with the sharp tip are Reid Prince screw drivers. When you buy a screw driver be sure you are getting a Philips screw driver. The Philips screw drivers can be recognized by the blunt or squared off tip. The K3 flatheads are very shallow because of the type of head and they will slip easily with a #0 or 'sharp' #1. [snip] Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. http://www.n5ge.com http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Dave, G4AON, hit it right on the head when he said: That is the whole point of the reflector, simple 'how does it fit' or 'where does that go' questions are easily resolved I've been waiting for my K3 and reading the mail for some time and printing out those messages that I feel will be helpful to me when mine arrives. This is what I have understood this reflector to be; a quorum that is meant to be helpful in the building, operating and understanding the K3 and other Elecraft products. Tom Brereton, W0TOM Ex: W2TJO, DL4BT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly special tools
On Mon, 2007-12-10 at 19:17 +, David Cutter wrote: Some builders have suggested that a special tool in needed for some of the assembly, eg a grabber type to hold screws and washers. It's not necessary, my magnetised screwdriver did just fine but I would have managed just fine without that too. It's a pretty easy assembly job and nothing is hard to get at. BTW there is nothing in there that a magnetised screwdriver is going to hurt 73 Brendan EI6IZ K3 #39 -- Don‘t complain. Nobody will understand. Or care. And certainly don‘t try to fix the situation yourself. It‘s dangerous. Leave it to a highly untrained, unqualified, expendable professional. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Exactly! :-) This is one the primary reasons we set up the list. 73, Eric WA6HHQ --- THOMAS BRERETON wrote: Dave, G4AON, hit it right on the head when he said: That is the whole point of the reflector, simple 'how does it fit' or 'where does that go' questions are easily resolved I've been waiting for my K3 and reading the mail for some time and printing out those messages that I feel will be helpful to me when mine arrives. This is what I have understood this reflector to be; a quorum that is meant to be helpful in the building, operating and understanding the K3 and other Elecraft products. Tom Brereton, W0TOM Ex: W2TJO, DL4BT ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly special tools
I had no problem putting mine together with the specifed tools. Long nose pliers worked for me in all tight situations. 73, doug From: David Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 19:17:50 - Some builders have suggested that a special tool in needed for some of the assembly, eg a grabber type to hold screws and washers. If this is a necessity for proper assembly, it would do us all a favour if Elecraft would make a bulk purchase and include it (or offer it as an accessory) with the kit. Then these useful tools will be in our tool kits for future work to the advantage of us all. Let's face it, a lot of us are becoming less finger-agile than we used to be. 73 David G3UNA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly special tools
Some builders have suggested that a special tool in needed for some of the assembly, eg a grabber type to hold screws and washers. There were only two times when I needed anything other than my fingers to hold a nut or washer. I was able to use a magnetized screwdriver in one case and a needle-nose pliers in the other and it worked fine. One was related to the KPA3 module and I think the other was the general-coverage receive module. Craig NZ0R K3/100 #25 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly special tools
I did the whole thing with a small Phillips head screwdriver and a 1/2 inch wrench for the front panel shafts. The lock washers provided plenty of friction so I didn't need any other nut drivers. The resistance checks can be handled with a $4.95 ohm meter. Oh yes, you need a thermometer to measure room temperature if you want to calibrate the PA temperature reading. You will also need magnification appropriate to your age. If you don't use reading glasses, you probably won't have a problem. Craig Buck k4ia Fredericksburg, Virginia USA **See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: If you read the step or look at the illustrations you'll see what size screw to use and exactly where to use PAN heads and FLAT heads. Mixing up hardware will do more than produce an ugly K3, it can cause short circuits, bent PC boards and a variety of other not-so-nice situations. That's why each step is very specific about the exact hardware to use, but you really have to read the steps! Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? Ian, They are not packaged separately. While it is a bit of an effort to located the correct screw amongst the others, my problem was in not reading pan head which was in bold letters and assuming flat head. No amount of packaging could have helped me. Gordon, KA2NLM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1178 - Release Date: 12/8/2007 11:59 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
I initially made the EXACT same mistake ... but after a few moments of reflection, realizing that something just didn't 'smell right', I re-read the assembly manual carefully ... and sorted it out. Not a big deal! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gordon Lois Duff Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 8:08 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? Ian, They are not packaged separately. While it is a bit of an effort to located the correct screw amongst the others, my problem was in not reading pan head which was in bold letters and assuming flat head. No amount of packaging could have helped me. Gordon, KA2NLM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1178 - Release Date: 12/8/2007 11:59 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com This email message, including any attachments, is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is proprietary, confidential, and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure, or distribution is prohibited. If you have received this email in error please notify the sender by return email and delete the original message. Please note, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The organization accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this email. = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
Ian GM3SEK asked: Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? --- No, the folks organizing the kit packaged the parts roughly by assembly such a front panel, KIO3 Interface, etc. The assembly manual illustrated parts list is broken down to show what parts are in each package. In this case, both flat head screws and pan head screws are in the K3 Miscellaneous Bag containing much of the enclosure hardware. That's why we specify the specific size and type of screw and show a picture of where each one goes throughout the manual. In this case I think it's clear more emphasis on the bottom screws being PAN head screws is justified and should appear in future revisions of the manual. However, it's very important to read and check off every step in the procedure and, if something doesn't fit right, the first thing to do is to go back and read the step and look at the picture again. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
Hi All, One bag of parts, the miscellaneous bag I think, has most of the screws used in the assembly. Other accessories and parts do often include additional hardware necessary for assembly of that part. But generally, you are digging screws from the general package. With 20/20 hindsight, I would recommend that you separate all the hardware carefully into muffin tin compartments. I spent way too much time carefully measuring each screw with a ruler--the 3/16 inch screws are hard to distinguish from the 1/4 inch, etc. You have flat head screws, black pan head screws, zinc pan head screws, and in varying sizes. Then you have different types of washers also. Most other parts are readily identifiable, but the screws and washers can be a little confusing. You probably will have a few extra as well, and the manual makes note of that fact. Also, when you add the KPA3 shield and amp, you will actually change a few pieces of hardware. So take care when you get to that step. As noted earlier, the bottom panels are not countersunk, and use panhead screws rather than flathead screws. While I'm at it, I will pass on a couple of very small glitches I ran into. One was attaching the plastic cover which goes over the LCD display. I had a little trouble exactly matching the holes in the cover with the holes on the front panel. It made it difficult to get the screws to catch, but eventually it all worked. When attaching the control board to the front panel, I found it a bit tricky to get the microphone jack to slide fully through the hole in the front panel. The manual also makes mention of this. I didn't have to do any reaming or anything, but it does take a little careful jiggling to get the microphone connector to fully pass through the hole. Finally, when mounting the KPA3 to the shield, I think you will find that it is very difficult to get your fingers (fat or otherwise) in where you can get the screws to seat into the hole for tightening. You probably would be wise to use a screwdriver that is magnetic so that you can move the screw down over the hole and begin to screw it in. The required washer can be places over the hole by just sliding them into position using the small slots on the side where the screwholes are located. But those slots aren't big enough to do the same with the screw itself. But using a magnetic tipped screwdriver also can cause a small problem as you approach the screwhole where you have already placed the washer. The washer wants to move due to the magnetic attraction. So you have to aim and shoot somewhat deftly. But it works. Somebody else probably has a much simpler solution to this. Overall, I think the K3 goes together quite nicely. Everything fits! Just be sure to mate and seat connectors properly. You are told when a connector might not seat 100%. The little jumper cables, like the ones from the coax connectors, have pin conncetors on them, and you need to make sure you fully mate those as well. Dave W7AQK - Original Message - From: Ian White GM3SEK [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 1:14 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: If you read the step or look at the illustrations you'll see what size screw to use and exactly where to use PAN heads and FLAT heads. Mixing up hardware will do more than produce an ugly K3, it can cause short circuits, bent PC boards and a variety of other not-so-nice situations. That's why each step is very specific about the exact hardware to use, but you really have to read the steps! Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Ian GM3SEK asked: Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? --- No, the folks organizing the kit packaged the parts roughly by assembly such a front panel, KIO3 Interface, etc. The assembly manual illustrated parts list is broken down to show what parts are in each package. In this case, both flat head screws and pan head screws are in the K3 Miscellaneous Bag containing much of the enclosure hardware. That's why we specify the specific size and type of screw and show a picture of where each one goes throughout the manual. In this case I think it's clear more emphasis on the bottom screws being PAN head screws is justified and should appear in future revisions of the manual. However, it's very important to read and check off every step in the procedure and, if something doesn't fit right, the first thing to do is to go back and read the step and look at the picture again. Thanks, Ron and everyone. It won't be a problem here, as both the assembly work and the completed rig will be shared with my wife, who is sure to enjoy sorting out the screws. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly
In a recent message, Corboy-Poteet [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote ... This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but: if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. Ah, but mind you don't erase the firmware ;-) 73 -- David G4DMP Leeds, England, UK -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
