Re: [Emc-users] Spindle drive

2009-11-15 Thread Frank Tkalcevic
 range, but allow you to run up to 1500 watts and 20,000 rpm 
 or more, 

I looked at those motors once, but was stumped with finding a suitable power
supply.  Where do you find a 12v 125A power supply? (or whatever it works
out to be)


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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle drive

2009-11-15 Thread Erik Christiansen
On Sun, Nov 15, 2009 at 07:00:28PM +1100, Frank Tkalcevic wrote:
  range, but allow you to run up to 1500 watts and 20,000 rpm 
  or more, 
 
 I looked at those motors once, but was stumped with finding a suitable power
 supply.  Where do you find a 12v 125A power supply? (or whatever it works
 out to be)

It's nice to have supply voltage headroom for the H-bridge, and an
inductive load would allow the PWM to transform e.g 24v 65A to your
needs, given good flywheel diodes.

A Cosel P1500E-24 is pricey new:
   http://www.plccenter.com/buy/COSEL/P1500E24

but maybe something similar can be found on fleabay.

The thing's only the size of a shoebox, and the one I had was also good
for 240v input.

Erik

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[Emc-users] PWM MESA 5i20

2009-11-15 Thread Martin Kříž
 

Hello,

 

I need this configuration to apply the PWM output for output to m5i20 

 

net spindle-cmd = motion.spindle-speed-out = pwmgen.0.value

net yenable = pwmgen.0.enable

net spindle-pwm = pwmgen.0.pwm

setp pwmgen.0.pwm-freq 50.0

setp pwmgen.0.scale 82

setp pwmgen.0.min-dc 0.05

setp pwmgen.0.max-dc 0.1

setp pwmgen.0.offset 0.048

setp pwmgen.0.dither-pwm true

net spindle-cw = motion.spindle-forward

 

net spindle-pwm = parport.0.pin-17-out

 

The frequency of PWM signal is 50Hz
Modulation range is 1-2ns PWM output controls the regulator hobby in
openloop
What is the configuration m5i20 for the same function?

thanks Martin

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[Emc-users] 5i20+7i33 connection to Servo Drive has +21mV of drift.

2009-11-15 Thread Pat Lyons
Hello again,

first off thank to all the suggestions about the encoders I was asking
about.  I think I'm just gonna go with the requirement of zero'ing position
prior to milling any part.

My new question has to do with the servo drive's input.  When it should be
at 0v, the input to the drive sits at about 21mV, which causes the motor to
drift slowly,  I though this might just mean the balance pot needs to be
adjusted, but turning it all the way in either direction has no effect.

it's been a while since I've dealt with anything on this level, but I was
wondering to myself could this be an impedance mismatch issue?  maybe I
should try a pullup or pulldown resistor?  I read in the manual something
about the 7i33 already having one or the other, I'll be lookin into that
again today, I just wanted to see if anyone had any immediate suggestions or
had encountered this before.

Thanks again!!!

-pat
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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle drive

2009-11-15 Thread Kent A. Reed
Gentle persons:

I've admired the brushless DC motors used in radio-controlled aircraft 
for some time. Their power and torque per size and weight 
characteristics are mindboggling (and a testament to the evolution of 
magnetic material in the last ten years) but I worry about their ability 
to run in our applications without frying themselves.

In a model airplane they typically run for 5-10 minutes and have tons of 
aircooling. Can they run all day in a CNC-mill? If they weren't so 
expensive I'd buy several and strap them to an instrumented testbed. As 
Ben Franklin wrote experience is an expensive teacher and I'd rather 
someone else make the investment :-)

Regards,
Kent


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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle drive

2009-11-15 Thread Ian W. Wright
Kestreltom wrote:-
 A guy, Matt Shumaker has an interesting web site 
documenting his electric bike
project here:
http://www.recumbents.com/WISIL/shumaker/default.htm

He has a cnc Sherline style micro mill with a brushless 
outrunner motor on the
spindle:
http://www.recumbents.com/WISIL/shumaker/CNC1.jpg

I highly recommend reading his informative posts and maybe 
even shoot him an
email about how he is controlling the spindle. 

Thanks Tom, excellent info. I have emailed him and am 
awaiting his reply. The motors and controllers certainly 
look affordable on Ebay although I'm not too sure about the 
drive shafts which mostly look puny - still, I might just go 
and hunt around the garage to see if I have an old welder to 
make a power supply and then order a motor to play with...

Ian

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[Emc-users] Mister for small mill

2009-11-15 Thread Gene Heskett
Greetings all;

I find that I can get brass tubing in pretty small sizes, like 1/16 OD, 
usually sized to be a slip fit in the next larger size, so this makes it easy 
to solder up a small nozzle, with the far end built up to 1/4 for attaching 
the air supply.

Now, I'm wondering if there is a standard formula that would tell me the 
exact geometry it would take to make a 2 tube, one blowing across the end of 
the other with air, and the second pulling from a nearby quart of cutting 
oil, in the same manner as the old hand pumped Hudson sprayers, to add a 
slight mist of cutting oil to the air blowing on the mill?  Angles, center 
separations etc?  I think I can just solder the tubing(s) to another small 
piece of sheet brass to maintain the alignment.

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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle drive

2009-11-15 Thread Dave
Kirk,  Where did you find that high speed Sole washer motor?  I did 
an internet search and not much showed up.

Dave

Kirk Wallace wrote:
 On Sat, 2009-11-14 at 09:38 -0800, Kirk Wallace wrote:
   
 On Sat, 2009-11-14 at 16:37 +, Ian W. Wright wrote:
 
 Hi, I'm wanting to change the spindle motor on my little 
 mill to one which I can speed control and which has a bit 
   
 ... snip
   
 maybe suggest a suitable circuit? Thanks

 Ian
   
 Off the top of my head, If I had a little mill with a small budget, I
 would consider shopping for a KBIC controller,
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/kbic/ 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/KB-ELECTRONICS-KBIC-120-DC-MOTOR-CONTROL-REMANNED_W0QQitemZ250527988998QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a54a1bd06
  
 (Short URL) http://preview.alturl.com/sfrw 

 scrounge a free 110 VAC universal motor and use a PWM signal from EMC2
 
 ... snip

 Another thing that comes to mind, these universal motors tend to be very
 noisy.

 I have one of these three phase washer motors:
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/wash_motor/ 

 which spins up to 16 kRPM, is quiet, and works well with my VFD's (but
 I'm lusting for a Danfoss). It's cheap, but out of the dirt cheap range
 though. I wish I could find the time to mount it to a small mill
 spindle. I need a mill to do PCB milling, someday.

   


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Re: [Emc-users] Mister for small mill

2009-11-15 Thread Leslie Newell
Here is how I did it. I took a short piece of brass bar and drilled most 
of the way through with a drill slightly bigger than the smallest tube I 
could easily obtain. This creates the air jet. I then drilled the rest 
of the way with a drill the same size as the tube. Next I drilled 
diagonally in from the back to allow air to pass around the oil pipe to 
the air jet. The small tube is pushed right through and soldered  in 
place. It projects about 1mm past the end of the jet. The whole lot is 
then pressed into the plastic nozzle on one of those cheap loc-line 
hoses. A small plastic pipe runs from the small tube in the jet, down 
the loc-line and out of a made-up block at the bottom. It sounds more 
complicated than it is.

I found the trick is to make sure the pipe down the middle projects past 
the end of the air nozzle. This way you get a stream of fine droplets in 
a cylinder of fast moving air. If the oil pipe is flush with the air 
outlet you get a fine mist that hangs in the air rather than going on 
the work.

Note that I use a pressurized oil feed as this setup doesn't generate 
much vacuum. The pressurized oil is supplied with one of those cheap 
combined air regulator/filter and oiler units on eBay like item 
#250528218868. I took out the air filter bits and added a pipe fitting 
on the bottom of the water trap. The water trap now becomes the oil 
reservoir. The reservoir is only small but it lasts quite a long time as 
you only need a trace of oil.

It pays to use oil designed for misters as it is less toxic than the 
usual cutting oils. The stuff I use is vegetable oil based and a gallon 
was damn expensive. However it will last many years.

Les



I used the smallest tube I could find.

Gene Heskett wrote:
 Greetings all;
 
 I find that I can get brass tubing in pretty small sizes, like 1/16 OD, 
 usually sized to be a slip fit in the next larger size, so this makes it easy 
 to solder up a small nozzle, with the far end built up to 1/4 for attaching 
 the air supply.
 
 Now, I'm wondering if there is a standard formula that would tell me the 
 exact geometry it would take to make a 2 tube, one blowing across the end of 
 the other with air, and the second pulling from a nearby quart of cutting 
 oil, in the same manner as the old hand pumped Hudson sprayers, to add a 
 slight mist of cutting oil to the air blowing on the mill?  Angles, center 
 separations etc?  I think I can just solder the tubing(s) to another small 
 piece of sheet brass to maintain the alignment.
 

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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle drive

2009-11-15 Thread kestreltom
Ian W. Wright watchma...@... writes:

 

 
 Thanks Tom, excellent info. I have emailed him and am 
 awaiting his reply. The motors and controllers certainly 
 look affordable on Ebay although I'm not too sure about the 
 drive shafts which mostly look puny - still, I might just go 
 and hunt around the garage to see if I have an old welder to 
 make a power supply and then order a motor to play with...
 
 Ian
 
 --


You bet Ian. 

btw I ordered a motor and esc to experiment with as part of my desire to make a 
better waste veggie oil transfer pump for my diesel truck. I will be running it 
at lower rpms (2500 - 3500) than you would, but it might lead me to do a 
spindle 
retrofit to my little LightMachines cnc mill. In that case I will post relevant 
info here. 
Kent's post is spot-on regarding getting rid of heat (both motor and esc) when 
you run these little things. It is not so much that they make more heat than a 
comparable motor on a rated power basis (actually they make less heat per 
motive 
force generated) but what is amazing is the amount of heat coming from such a 
small package! For an inrunner, I would use a heat sink and a fan.
Also, if you order a cheap chinese esc, you might want to beef up the capacitor 
bank which is usually puny when you look at the amount of current being 
switched 
(usually at 16K Hz)and the resulting ripple. 

Tom



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Re: [Emc-users] Mister for small mill

2009-11-15 Thread Roland Jollivet
If it's organic, it's bound to be Castor oil, an excellent lubricant.
Because it gums up over time, you could just let it go to drain.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXS627P=8

Roland



2009/11/15 Leslie Newell les.new...@fastmail.co.uk

 Here is how I did it. I took a short piece of brass bar and drilled most
 of the way through with a drill slightly bigger than the smallest tube I
 could easily obtain. This creates the air jet. I then drilled the rest
 of the way with a drill the same size as the tube. Next I drilled
 diagonally in from the back to allow air to pass around the oil pipe to
 the air jet. The small tube is pushed right through and soldered  in
 place. It projects about 1mm past the end of the jet. The whole lot is
 then pressed into the plastic nozzle on one of those cheap loc-line
 hoses. A small plastic pipe runs from the small tube in the jet, down
 the loc-line and out of a made-up block at the bottom. It sounds more
 complicated than it is.

 I found the trick is to make sure the pipe down the middle projects past
 the end of the air nozzle. This way you get a stream of fine droplets in
 a cylinder of fast moving air. If the oil pipe is flush with the air
 outlet you get a fine mist that hangs in the air rather than going on
 the work.

 Note that I use a pressurized oil feed as this setup doesn't generate
 much vacuum. The pressurized oil is supplied with one of those cheap
 combined air regulator/filter and oiler units on eBay like item
 #250528218868. I took out the air filter bits and added a pipe fitting
 on the bottom of the water trap. The water trap now becomes the oil
 reservoir. The reservoir is only small but it lasts quite a long time as
 you only need a trace of oil.

 It pays to use oil designed for misters as it is less toxic than the
 usual cutting oils. The stuff I use is vegetable oil based and a gallon
 was damn expensive. However it will last many years.

 Les



 I used the smallest tube I could find.

 Gene Heskett wrote:
  Greetings all;
 
  I find that I can get brass tubing in pretty small sizes, like 1/16 OD,
  usually sized to be a slip fit in the next larger size, so this makes it
 easy
  to solder up a small nozzle, with the far end built up to 1/4 for
 attaching
  the air supply.
 
  Now, I'm wondering if there is a standard formula that would tell me the
  exact geometry it would take to make a 2 tube, one blowing across the end
 of
  the other with air, and the second pulling from a nearby quart of cutting
  oil, in the same manner as the old hand pumped Hudson sprayers, to add a
  slight mist of cutting oil to the air blowing on the mill?  Angles,
 center
  separations etc?  I think I can just solder the tubing(s) to another
 small
  piece of sheet brass to maintain the alignment.
 


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Re: [Emc-users] Mister for small mill

2009-11-15 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 15 November 2009, Leslie Newell wrote:
Here is how I did it. I took a short piece of brass bar and drilled most
of the way through with a drill slightly bigger than the smallest tube I
could easily obtain. This creates the air jet. I then drilled the rest
of the way with a drill the same size as the tube. Next I drilled
diagonally in from the back to allow air to pass around the oil pipe to
the air jet. The small tube is pushed right through and soldered  in
place. It projects about 1mm past the end of the jet. The whole lot is
then pressed into the plastic nozzle on one of those cheap loc-line
hoses. A small plastic pipe runs from the small tube in the jet, down
the loc-line and out of a made-up block at the bottom. It sounds more
complicated than it is.

I must confess I had to think about this to get the right mental picture, but 
now its clear, almost exactly the same as an air brush gun, where the liquid 
comes out of the center.  So that center tube feeding in the oil is 
surrounded by by the air exiting through the gap between the OD of that tube 
and the drilled holes walls.  Neat, and looks to be fairly rugged too.  I'll 
see what I can come up with.  The nearest tubing is probably the Hobby Stop 
25 miles up the interstate in Bridgeport, he carries that whole line of 
graduated size tubing in brass, alu and even plastic for the model makers.

Neat idea, thanks.

I found the trick is to make sure the pipe down the middle projects past
the end of the air nozzle. This way you get a stream of fine droplets in
a cylinder of fast moving air. If the oil pipe is flush with the air
outlet you get a fine mist that hangs in the air rather than going on
the work.

Good to know that the atomization can be overdone.

Note that I use a pressurized oil feed as this setup doesn't generate
much vacuum. The pressurized oil is supplied with one of those cheap
combined air regulator/filter and oiler units on eBay like item
#250528218868. I took out the air filter bits and added a pipe fitting
on the bottom of the water trap. The water trap now becomes the oil
reservoir. The reservoir is only small but it lasts quite a long time as
you only need a trace of oil.

That I can source at Lowes, and probably for no more that that one by the 
time you pay ebays usually outrageous SH. I also have a pair of those in the 
tank electric fuel pumps, which also might serve as the flow regulator and 
pump, triggering it with a spare relay on the spindle controller, spindle 
running, get oil in the air.

It pays to use oil designed for misters as it is less toxic than the
usual cutting oils. The stuff I use is vegetable oil based and a gallon
was damn expensive. However it will last many years.

I'll also check that when I am out of the quart of cutting oil I am using 
now.

Thanks Les,  appreciate the help.

-- 
Cheers, Gene
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
The NRA is offering FREE Associate memberships to anyone who wants them.
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Re: [Emc-users] Mister for small mill

2009-11-15 Thread dave
Castor oil is a good guess but not the only one. It's fatty acids are a
couple of carbons longer than the average cooking oil and does seem to
survive well as a lube in model airplane engines. On the industrial
market it is about 30% more expensive than canola. If I wanted to go
cheap I'd simply go with canola right off the shelf. Indeed inexpensive
enough to not recover. 

Tea (seed) oil might be another interesting choice. About 88% C18:1
(mono-unsaturated) it has a high smoke point (485 F). Common cooking oil
for southern China and available in this country as specialty cooking
oil. 

If you wanted something different blend fat from hamburgers with canola
and enjoy the smell of frying beef food while machining. ;-)

Probably more than you really wanted to know. 

Dave 

On Sun, 2009-11-15 at 20:57 +0200, Roland Jollivet wrote:
 If it's organic, it's bound to be Castor oil, an excellent lubricant.
 Because it gums up over time, you could just let it go to drain.
 
 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXS627P=8
 
 Roland
 
 
 
 2009/11/15 Leslie Newell les.new...@fastmail.co.uk
 
  Here is how I did it. I took a short piece of brass bar and drilled most
  of the way through with a drill slightly bigger than the smallest tube I
  could easily obtain. This creates the air jet. I then drilled the rest
  of the way with a drill the same size as the tube. Next I drilled
  diagonally in from the back to allow air to pass around the oil pipe to
  the air jet. The small tube is pushed right through and soldered  in
  place. It projects about 1mm past the end of the jet. The whole lot is
  then pressed into the plastic nozzle on one of those cheap loc-line
  hoses. A small plastic pipe runs from the small tube in the jet, down
  the loc-line and out of a made-up block at the bottom. It sounds more
  complicated than it is.
 
  I found the trick is to make sure the pipe down the middle projects past
  the end of the air nozzle. This way you get a stream of fine droplets in
  a cylinder of fast moving air. If the oil pipe is flush with the air
  outlet you get a fine mist that hangs in the air rather than going on
  the work.
 
  Note that I use a pressurized oil feed as this setup doesn't generate
  much vacuum. The pressurized oil is supplied with one of those cheap
  combined air regulator/filter and oiler units on eBay like item
  #250528218868. I took out the air filter bits and added a pipe fitting
  on the bottom of the water trap. The water trap now becomes the oil
  reservoir. The reservoir is only small but it lasts quite a long time as
  you only need a trace of oil.
 
  It pays to use oil designed for misters as it is less toxic than the
  usual cutting oils. The stuff I use is vegetable oil based and a gallon
  was damn expensive. However it will last many years.
 
  Les
 
 
 
  I used the smallest tube I could find.
 
  Gene Heskett wrote:
   Greetings all;
  
   I find that I can get brass tubing in pretty small sizes, like 1/16 OD,
   usually sized to be a slip fit in the next larger size, so this makes it
  easy
   to solder up a small nozzle, with the far end built up to 1/4 for
  attaching
   the air supply.
  
   Now, I'm wondering if there is a standard formula that would tell me the
   exact geometry it would take to make a 2 tube, one blowing across the end
  of
   the other with air, and the second pulling from a nearby quart of cutting
   oil, in the same manner as the old hand pumped Hudson sprayers, to add a
   slight mist of cutting oil to the air blowing on the mill?  Angles,
  center
   separations etc?  I think I can just solder the tubing(s) to another
  small
   piece of sheet brass to maintain the alignment.
  
 
 
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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle drive

2009-11-15 Thread Kirk Wallace
On Sun, 2009-11-15 at 12:08 -0500, Dave wrote:
 Kirk,  Where did you find that high speed Sole washer motor?  I did 
 an internet search and not much showed up.
 
 Dave

I got mine from eBay by searching washer motor, then carefully looking
through the ads. In the US, it seems that most motors are are
multi-speed single phase induction motors or brushed AC (universal), so
you need to make sure the dataplate shows three phase.

Here is a sample:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=220481317692 

The dataplate isn't legible, but you could send the seller a question on
what it says:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=270485157078 

I Googled the model number 205850 motor and found this:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/app/1448554050.html 

Happy hunting.
-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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Re: [Emc-users] Mister for small mill

2009-11-15 Thread Jeshua Lacock

On Nov 15, 2009, at 12:45 PM, dave wrote:

 Castor oil is a good guess but not the only one. It's fatty acids  
 are a
 couple of carbons longer than the average cooking oil and does seem to
 survive well as a lube in model airplane engines. On the industrial
 market it is about 30% more expensive than canola. If I wanted to go
 cheap I'd simply go with canola right off the shelf. Indeed  
 inexpensive
 enough to not recover.

If you want to get even more value out of your oil - you could burn it  
when it is done.

I have casted hundreds of pounds of iron and aluminum from my oil  
burner. Or you could heat your shop with it.

Here I am melting iron with vegetable oil:

http://openosx.com/hotspring/foundry/melt-iron/melt-iron.html


Cheers,

Jeshua Lacock
Founder/Programmer
3DTOPO Incorporated
http://3DTOPO.com
Phone: 208.462.4171


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Re: [Emc-users] Parallel ports on laptops

2009-11-15 Thread Andy Pugh
2009/11/15 Bryan Mumford n...@bmumford.com:

 . Can I successfully use a p-port on a laptop like
 a new Dell Latitude E5400 that has an E Legacy Extender to add a
 parallel port?

I don't know for sure, but the P-Port in the docking station of my
Latitude (D630) is a proper pin-addressable port.

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Re: [Emc-users] Parallel ports on laptops

2009-11-15 Thread Dave Caroline
Be aware that some laptops cannot be used due to power management so
do the latency test before you buy anything

Dave Caroline

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Re: [Emc-users] Parallel ports on laptops

2009-11-15 Thread Bryan Mumford
Be aware that some laptops cannot be used due to power management so
do the latency test before you buy anything

Can't do a latency test on a mail order Dell. How likely am I to have 
this problem, and is there no work-around?

How do you do the latency test?

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Re: [Emc-users] Mister for small mill

2009-11-15 Thread Leslie Newell
Hi Gene,


almost exactly the same as an air brush gun, where the liquid 
 comes out of the center.  So that center tube feeding in the oil is 
 surrounded by by the air exiting through the gap between the OD of that tube 
 and the drilled holes walls.


Yup. The tricky bit is finding the right drill diameter. You only need a 
very small gap otherwise you end up using LOTS of air. With a small gap 
you can use a higher pressure and most of the flow is then air dragged 
in by the high velocity air stream.

A better way may be to drill the other way round. A big hole followed by 
a smaller hole that is the jet size. The oil tube is then fitted through 
a star shaped insert that fits in the larger hole. The air travels 
through the gaps in the star. Slightly more complicated but it reduces 
the restriction on airflow so again you can decrease the jet gap and 
increase efficiency. Mine uses a fair amount of air and the compressor 
kicking in on a fairly regular basis can get annoying.


Oh yes, I forgot to mention you really need a needle valve and one-way 
valve in the oil line. If you don't have a one-way valve the oil drains 
back and takes a while to start flowing next time you turn on the air. I 
used 4mm nylon pipe from the oil reservoir to the mister. You can buy 
4mm push fit needle valves and one way valves designed for pneumatics.

  Neat, and looks to be fairly rugged too.


The thin inner tube is a little vulnerable but so far it has survived on 
my lathe where it often gets wrapped up in swarf.

 Good to know that the atomization can be overdone.

Yes you want to keep atomization to a minimum.

 pump, triggering it with a spare relay on the spindle controller, spindle 
 running, get oil in the air.

I use a solenoid valve on the air supply, driven from the mist coolant 
output.

Les

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Re: [Emc-users] Parallel ports on laptops

2009-11-15 Thread Michael Buesch
On Sunday 15 November 2009 23:59:26 Bryan Mumford wrote:
 Be aware that some laptops cannot be used due to power management so
 do the latency test before you buy anything
 
 Can't do a latency test on a mail order Dell. How likely am I to have 
 this problem, and is there no work-around?

I'd say it's very likely on modern laptops.
In fact, I don't think _any_ modern laptop is usable for realtime due
to excessive powersaving features implemented by the firmware.

 How do you do the latency test?

EMC ships a latency-test script.

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Greetings, Michael.

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Re: [Emc-users] Mister for small mill

2009-11-15 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 15 November 2009, Leslie Newell wrote:
Hi Gene,

almost exactly the same as an air brush gun, where the liquid
 comes out of the center.  So that center tube feeding in the oil is
 surrounded by by the air exiting through the gap between the OD of that
 tube and the drilled holes walls.

Yup. The tricky bit is finding the right drill diameter. You only need a
very small gap otherwise you end up using LOTS of air. With a small gap
you can use a higher pressure and most of the flow is then air dragged
in by the high velocity air stream.

A better way may be to drill the other way round. A big hole followed by
a smaller hole that is the jet size. The oil tube is then fitted through
a star shaped insert that fits in the larger hole. The air travels
through the gaps in the star. Slightly more complicated but it reduces
the restriction on airflow so again you can decrease the jet gap and
increase efficiency. Mine uses a fair amount of air and the compressor
kicking in on a fairly regular basis can get annoying.


Oh yes, I forgot to mention you really need a needle valve and one-way
valve in the oil line. If you don't have a one-way valve the oil drains
back and takes a while to start flowing next time you turn on the air. I
used 4mm nylon pipe from the oil reservoir to the mister. You can buy
4mm push fit needle valves and one way valves designed for pneumatics.

That latter I haven't found yet.

Starting with some tube that was .093 OD, I drilled the next size bigger 
drill bit about 2/3rds through a small block of brass.  This looks usable 
although I'd druther see a smaller air gap.  I haven't drilled the side hole 
for the air inlet yet, need to go see what size of tubing I can find, in 
between getting an oil leak looked at on the wifes car.  I suddenly need two 
of me, life keeps getting in the way...
  
  Neat, and looks to be fairly rugged too.

The thin inner tube is a little vulnerable but so far it has survived on
my lathe where it often gets wrapped up in swarf.

I figure on milling this down to pretty small, so it can be aimed just by 
bending the air supply tubing.

 Good to know that the atomization can be overdone.

Yes you want to keep atomization to a minimum.

 pump, triggering it with a spare relay on the spindle controller, spindle
 running, get oil in the air.

I use a solenoid valve on the air supply, driven from the mist coolant
output.

I haven't stumbled over one of those yet...

Thanks Les

-- 
Cheers, Gene
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
The NRA is offering FREE Associate memberships to anyone who wants them.
https://www.nrahq.org/nrabonus/accept-membership.asp

Oh don't the days seem lank and long
When all goes right and none goes wrong,
And isn't your life extremely flat
With nothing whatever to grumble at!

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Re: [Emc-users] Parallel ports on laptops

2009-11-15 Thread Chris Radek
On Sun, Nov 15, 2009 at 02:59:26PM -0800, Bryan Mumford wrote:
 
 Can't do a latency test on a mail order Dell. How likely am I to have 
 this problem, and is there no work-around?

Very likely.

There is no work-around because it's a hardware/BIOS issue, not
software.

Buying a new laptop mail-order for use with EMC is a very bad idea
in my opinion.

If you can, take a live CD to a local used-computers-and-stuff shop
and boot their dirt-cheap P3 systems until you find one that gives
good latency results.  Then run EMC/AXIS and see if the machine has
working OpenGL.  If you are near an AP (you will be, if they sell
laptops with wireless), see if that works.  Bonus: parallel ports
galore.  If you find one, fill it with as much RAM as it will handle
and it'll be plenty fast enough for EMC.

My local shop had no problem with me testing machines for Linux
compatibility this way.

You will almost certainly not find a realtime-capable laptop by
chance.  You must test them.


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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle drive

2009-11-15 Thread Dave
That will work  Thanks Kirk! 

Dave

Kirk Wallace wrote:
 On Sun, 2009-11-15 at 12:08 -0500, Dave wrote:
   
 Kirk,  Where did you find that high speed Sole washer motor?  I did 
 an internet search and not much showed up.

 Dave
 

 I got mine from eBay by searching washer motor, then carefully looking
 through the ads. In the US, it seems that most motors are are
 multi-speed single phase induction motors or brushed AC (universal), so
 you need to make sure the dataplate shows three phase.

 Here is a sample:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=220481317692 

 The dataplate isn't legible, but you could send the seller a question on
 what it says:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=270485157078 

 I Googled the model number 205850 motor and found this:
 http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/app/1448554050.html 

 Happy hunting.
   


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Re: [Emc-users] Parallel ports on laptops

2009-11-15 Thread Bryan Mumford
I'm very sorry to hear this, but glad I did before I spent money for 
a machine that was not going to work.

Thanks for the bad news.


At 7:34 PM -0600 11-15-09, Chris Radek wrote:
On Sun, Nov 15, 2009 at 02:59:26PM -0800, Bryan Mumford wrote:

  Can't do a latency test on a mail order Dell. How likely am I to have
  this problem, and is there no work-around?

Very likely.

There is no work-around because it's a hardware/BIOS issue, not
software.

Buying a new laptop mail-order for use with EMC is a very bad idea
in my opinion.

If you can, take a live CD to a local used-computers-and-stuff shop
and boot their dirt-cheap P3 systems until you find one that gives
good latency results.  Then run EMC/AXIS and see if the machine has
working OpenGL.  If you are near an AP (you will be, if they sell
laptops with wireless), see if that works.  Bonus: parallel ports
galore.  If you find one, fill it with as much RAM as it will handle
and it'll be plenty fast enough for EMC.

My local shop had no problem with me testing machines for Linux
compatibility this way.

You will almost certainly not find a realtime-capable laptop by
chance.  You must test them.


-- 

Bryan Mumford

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[Emc-users] Cloud computing CADCAM

2009-11-15 Thread a
Hello
I think there are so many CAD CAM on market that it is not easy to choose
one.
Start with CATIA $ 21 000, MasterCam $ 15 000 to CAD CAM that cost few
hundreds.
I think that future for CAD CAM is in Cloud Computing.
Goggle and Microsoft try to bring it up.
Pay for time you used CAD CAM, and next time you can use another CAD CAM
and new upgrades is not user problem any more.
It is very interesting, pre pay for use ( 30 days etc) log in and use it.
I think that individual, company can buy few CAD CAM and start offer Cloud
Computing to mass users. I think there is market for it. Competition will
bring price down for sure.
I personally will use it that service.

Thanks
Aram


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Re: [Emc-users] Parallel ports on laptops

2009-11-15 Thread Andy Pugh
2009/11/16 Bryan Mumford n...@bmumford.com:

 I'm very sorry to hear this, but glad I did before I spent money for
 a machine that was not going to work.

I can try booting my D630 from the LiveCD this evening and testing it
if you think it will be any help?

-- 
atp

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