Re: A polite netiquette back and forth
Howdy, My favorite way to do this is to setup a filter. I look for the from address and send it to a special folder I call Garbage. I check that folder infrequently and after I do that for a while, I have changed the filter to actually delete the email. I have just one person in my kill filter at the moment. Strictly speaking, the email would still get to your inbox, but you never see it. Good day, Ralph On Sun, 2009-06-14 at 12:40 -0500, Brian wrote: How about an on topic discussion for once? How about this: how do I block messages frm certin email addresses from reaching my inbox in Mail? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: G4 Triple boot question
Howdy, I have not installed YDL for a while. When I last tried it, it worked fine to dual boot if I installed OSX first. OSX does not really understand having Linux as a boot option. If you install OSX first, then you end up with a boot menu installed that lets you choose what you want to run. These tests were dual booting with YDL and OSX Tiger. I assume Leopard is about the same, but maybe someone else will comment on that. Have a good day, Ralph On Tue, 2009-06-16 at 23:07 -0400, Paul Kemner wrote: I recently got a G4 Dual 1.42, with Tiger on the 80g drive. I'd like to install Yellow Dog Linux, and possibly Leopard on a 2nd ... Any thoughts on which OS to install first, and which should be in the first partition on the extra drive? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: A polite netiquette back and forth
Howdy, HTML is rejected by most lists I am on. How well does this demime work? It might be friendlier than rejecting. I think a better approach to 2 is to limit the quoted text to a percentage. In a very long response, it might be reasonable to have more than 20 quoted lines. I had never heard of the List-id header. Thanks. I am going to have to check the lists I am responsible for to see that they implement it. Have a good day, Ralph On Sun, 2009-06-14 at 14:06 -0600, Doug McNutt wrote: 1: Use demime to get rid of useless HTML submitted by posters. There are reasons for HTML but list postings rarely need it. Perhaps a procedure for allowing HTML in short attachments for special cases. After a few postings get mangled users would get wise to submitting in ASCII text only. 2: Limit quoted text to, say, 20 lines and enforce it by truncating in software. ... 6: Either get rid of the [G3-5] list identifier in the subject line or make it optional for each client. Encourage list users to filter based on the List-id: header --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Cable Select OR Master / Slave in a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz? (and DA Dual 533)
Howdy, Use any flat IDE cable you want. Use 80 pin cables if you want speeds greater than 33 megabytes per second. Use CS if you are prepared to have your computer guess which drive is which and whether you have the right cable. Set the master/slave settings if you want to know it will work. The master/slave settings do have to be set right, so some companies and people don't want to do it. Some drives have separate settings for Master with slave and Master without slave(aka Single). I am not saying you won't get it to work any other way. But, follow those simple rules and it will work. Good luck, Ralph On Mon, 2009-06-15 at 15:18 -0400, insightinmind wrote: Just for the main hard drive connection: So it is NOT ok to use the UltraATA cable (Space Shuttle-D, Cd Pb Free, 80wire/40pin) supplied in a Retail Box Kit along with a Seagate UltraATA drive as the cable off the Apple mobo, because of a HP/ Compaq patented method of interrogating the drive at Startup, in my Quicksilver 2002 Dual 1GHz? I need to put back the short one with the slit (hence Cable Select cable), and set my Seagate to Master, because ... --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
G5 Heat
I had planned on using my old dual G5 as a file server (yes, using Leopard), with occasional use as web browser plus multimedia box. It serves all three purposes admirably, but the problem is that it generates way too much heat. In the winter, this wasn't too much of a problem, but now that it's summer here in Alabama, it gets my computer room way too hot, even running at idle. Is there a way to reduce heat production on this thing, perhaps by throttling the CPUs? I seem to recall a utility that would let you shut down individual CPUs on a multiple CPU machine, but I can't recall the name of the utility. Machine specs below... Eric Powermac G5 (1.8GHz x 2) 2GB DDR RAM 500GB SATA Seagate 7200 RPM drive 80GB SATA Drive NVidia GeForce 5200 FX 64MB RAM Video Card Echo Indigo IO Audio Card SIIG PCI-PCMCIA Bridge Card Buffalo 802.11g Wireless Card (recognized as Airport) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: [G3-5]Re: Horrible, horrible, horrible video
On Jun 16, 2009, at 11:01 PM, MaGioZal wrote: On 6/16/09 1:28 AM, Po-en Tsai at poen.t...@gmail.com wrote: Or, like me, I would switch onto my Panther 10.3 partition, running Firefox 2.04 to watch anything Flash based. It seems to work for me, and Youtube works fine like that. Upgrading ram may help, with my iMac, I had 512mb ram, but upgraded to 768mb, which sped flash up a bit. Well, when I run primairly Mac OS 9 here with Mozilla 1.2.1 and Flash 7, YouTibe videos also ran very badly, too. I am a Beige G3 owner. I made a mistake saying it was 768, I actually have the ram maxed out at a gig. This is really sad. -- MaGioZal. http://magiozal.blogspot.com/ --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Mozilla apps - Optimized for G3/G4
On Jun 16, 2009, at 9:07 PM, Kris Tilford wrote: PPC, G3, G4, G5, Someone may have answered this, but which version, of the 7450 or 7400, should I get from RPM for a Titanium G4. I relent, I'd try this build and see if my horrible internet video playback is improved on this 400 Mhzm 1GB machine. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Cable Select OR Master / Slave in a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz? (and DA Dual 533)
On Jun 17, 2009, at 4:11 AM, Ralph Green wrote: Use any flat IDE cable you want. Use 80 pin cables if you want speeds greater than 33 megabytes per second. I thought an IDE cable is an IDE cable is anso when you say to use 80 pin IDE for increased speed, what do you mean? Please expand on this as I'd like to go through my box of cables and pick out all the 80 pins and use them. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Mozilla apps - Optimized for G3/G4
On Jun 16, 2009, at 8:31 PM, Dan wrote: Note that once you've hit the system and apps with this tool, they are forever damaged. This is a very very very important thing to know about Monolingual. If you're installing your OS with the disk, why can't people just simply use the advance install option and uncheck languages they don't need and printers they don't have? That seems simple to me. Dan, there was Monolingial and another app mentioned in this threadis that other one...name escapes...damage files as well? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: A polite netiquette back and forth
At 2:21 AM -0500 6/17/2009, Ralph Green wrote: HTML is rejected by most lists I am on. How well does this demime work? It might be friendlier than rejecting. Not very well. The problem is that html mails tend to use indent tags, instead of the normal , to denote quoting,. So when you strip the html, the text flattens - then you can't tell who wrote what. I think a better approach to 2 is to limit the quoted text to a percentage. A hard limit doesn't always work well either. Sometimes a post is just so convoluted that even after you've removed the noise, you end up with a lot of necessary context to quote. I had never heard of the List-id header. Tell your mail client to view some messages in their raw form, so you can visually review all the headers. There are some useful / interesting things there! Mailing lists aren't consistent with header use, tho. So I tend to just filter on the To header, or sometimes any header. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Mozilla apps - Optimized for G3/G4
At 6:56 AM -0600 6/17/2009, Nestamicky wrote: which version, of the 7450 or 7400, should I get from RPM http://firefoxmac.furbism.com/whichbuildforme/ - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Cable Select OR Master / Slave in a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz? (and DA Dual 533)
On Jun 17, 2009, at 8:44 AM, Nestamicky wrote: On Jun 17, 2009, at 4:11 AM, Ralph Green wrote: Use any flat IDE cable you want. Use 80 pin cables if you want speeds greater than 33 megabytes per second. I thought an IDE cable is an IDE cable is anso when you say to use 80 pin IDE for increased speed, what do you mean? Please expand on this as I'd like to go through my box of cables and pick out all the 80 pins and use them. It is not 80 pin, it is 80 wires. The cables still have the standard 40 pins. The newer ATA specs (starting with Ultra DMA/33) call for 80 wires to cut down on crosstalk between the wires. The extra wires are ground wires not connected to any pins and are in between each signal wire. Most modern drives in their specs say they require 80 wire cables to operate at full speed. You can still use 40 pin, but your throughput MAY not be at the drives maximum. HTH, Len --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Mozilla apps - Optimized for G3/G4
Title: Re: Mozilla apps - Optimized for G3/G4 At 7:00 AM -0600 6/17/2009, Nestamicky wrote: On Jun 16, 2009, at 8:31 PM, Dan wrote: Note that once you've hit the system and apps with this tool, they are forever damaged. This is a very very very important thing to know about Monolingual. If you're installing your OS with the disk, why can't people just simply use the advance install option and uncheck languages they don't need and printers they don't have? They could. Or perhaps they change their mind later. Then there are the apps that ship with umpteen (language) localizations in them. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Cable Select OR Master / Slave in a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz? (and DA Dual 533)
On Jun 17, 2009, at 3:11 AM, Ralph Green wrote: Use any flat IDE cable you want. Only if you want to force the lowest possible performance, as without the additional information available using the technique previously mentioned, the 'puter has no other choice but to force basic mode (16.67 MB/sec), and all models from the BW on make the provision for enhanced mode (33 MB/sec, or faster). Use 80 pin cables if you want speeds greater than 33 megabytes per second. That is but one (and only one) reason to use 80-wire/40-pin cables. Another is most modern optical drives, although these never use faster than 33 MB/sec, these require 80-wire/40-pin cables for more than 8X writing. Although the OEM packaging never says so, the retail packaging certainly does: in order for the drive to operate faster than 8X an 80-wire/40-pin cable is required, even if the host bus is 16.67 MB/sec. An 80-wire/40-pin cable may also be required for some of the improved burning strategies (always write, etcetera). Bottom line: to ensure the highest percentage of good burns, and, conversely, the lowest percentage of coasters, an 80-wire/40-pin cable is required. All desktop Macs from BW on use an 80-wire/40-pin cable for both ATA buses, whether those buses are ATA-2, ATA-3 or ATA-4 (and higher ATA modes on the MDD). Only the Beige used a 40-wire/40-pin cable, and that model series was limited to 16.67 MB/sec, and two masters if Revision 1, and two masters and two slaves if Revision 2 or 3. (The Revision 2 or 3 models could accept slaves on the optical bus, but the HD bus was never provided with a slave connector on any revision, for the reason that the slave drive would be located more than 18 inches from the host connector, although that limit could be exceeded with specially designed and tested cables). Use CS if you are prepared to have your computer guess which drive is which and whether you have the right cable. There is no guessing involved. The drive which is connected to the black connector is master; the drive which is connected to the gray connector is slave. But, as master and slave are actually peers, it doesn't matter which drive is master and which drive is slave, just as long as the following rule is met: if there is only one drive on a bus, it must be master and it must be at the end of the cable. The black connector is on the end of the cable. Incidentally, the black, gray and blue connectors are not identical. There are pins missing (open) or are present and are grounded (closed) in certain strategic positions. In this way, the host may determine if the cable is 40-wire/40-pin or is 80-wire/40-pin, or is not present at all, and also the maximum operating speed of each connected device. 80-wire/40-pin cables allow for asymmetric operation (16.67 MB/sec for one device, and 33 MB/sec or faster for the other device). Set the master/slave settings if you want to know it will work. Well, yeah, but all of the above must be met, too. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Cable Select OR Master / Slave in a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz? (and DA Dual 533)
On Jun 17, 10:37 am, PeterH peterh5...@rattlebrain.com wrote: On Jun 17, 2009, at 3:11 AM, Ralph Green wrote: Use CS if you are prepared to have your computer guess which drive is which and whether you have the right cable. There is no guessing involved. The drive which is connected to the black connector is master; the drive which is connected to the gray connector is slave. Yes. Convenience was the main reason I preferred using CS back towards the end of the days when I was primarily using PATA drives. Having to muck around with the master/slave jumpers every time I moved a drive was extremely tedious annoying. Typically I would *always* drop a jumper while trying to change things around. At this point in my life my eyes don't function well enough to make finding a jumper buried in a carpet in bad lighting a minor glitch. But whatever works ... and to each their own ... -irrational john --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Mozilla apps - Optimized for G3/G4
On Jun 17, 2009, at 6:00 AM, Nestamicky wrote: On Jun 16, 2009, at 8:31 PM, Dan wrote: Note that once you've hit the system and apps with this tool, they are forever damaged. This is a very very very important thing to know about Monolingual. If you're installing your OS with the disk, why can't people just simply use the advance install option and uncheck languages they don't need and printers they don't have? That seems simple to me. So long as you know which button to click and when. Dan, there was Monolingial and another app mentioned in this threadis that other one...name escapes...damage files as well? The other one was 'Delocalizer' and it does not do anything about alternate architectures. Truthfully, stripping fat binaries never gains you a whole lot of free space, because the vast bulk of most applications lies in the resources and help files. For example: TextEdit is 22.1 MB in size. The actual textEdit compiled binary part, which includes both PPC and X86 code? 264K. Monolingual will strip the extra language resources out of the app, too, I think, which will result in a lot of savings. Manually stripping the extra language resources from TextEdit cut it down to 1.9 mb. No need to screw up the binaries as well. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Cable Select OR Master / Slave in a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz? (and DA Dual 533)
The problem I was having may have been due to a nearby PCI card crimping the Apple supplied short mobo ATA cable: I had also mounted my drive in the top position of the QSs piggyback sled, for better air flow. Of course when trying to debug a sole drive dropping off the desktop, you can go different routes: UltraATA (or UltraDMA) drives not being supported as Cable Select off a Cable Select setup in a QS 2002, according to an Apple manual, was one of the places. Someone stated (Peter, I believe, if I understood correctly) Apple, historically, uses an HP/Compaq patented Startup protocol that requires the Cable Select (slitted) off the mobo ATA cable at Startup, then, depending on the machine and particular hard drive specs, uses whatever the drive is set to (CS/Single/Master/Slave). (Note: Maxtors others, are sometimes different from Seagates). Several links in a chain of IDE channel events, any one of which MAY break the desired result of a good connection being established AND then maintained. As recently suggested, to be on the safe side, I decided upon returning to using the un-crimped Apple slit CS ATA cable with my Seagate Ultra ATA(DMA) 750GB 7200.10 drive, jumpered to Master. So far, the drive has not started clicking, and dropping off the radar ... which to me could indicate a failing drive and/or a bad connection. With it being a year old, light use, Seagate, and the crimped cable, I'm going with it having been a bad connection, for now. And I am using the symbolically unpleasant terms of Master/Slave to solve my hard drive dropping dead while over-working issue ... although I have no Slaves in my household. Bill Connelly artsite: http://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudio myspace: http://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudio --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where Do I Find Reliable Info On Color Critical Monitor Choices?
Hi Bruce, thank you for the suggestion re: Scott Kelby's book, I'll add it to my acquisition list - which grows ever longer, but good reference materials are always a great 'first buy'. Here's my thoughts on your responses :-) A: I want my 'pictures' to appear consistently the same when I open then, no matter how far apart they're opened over time :-) Monitors drift. Also, store you images in a cool, dry place, heat can cause color shifts :-P Very Correct Bruce - Displays do drift in their 'representations' of what's being sent to it, even if those files haven't changed a whit. It's an inherent variable within any of our display technologies with some of the variables being the Bulbs/LED's in our LCD's, CRT's and LCD's chemicals and electronic bits aging, changing, or wearing out over time. -FURTHER- The 'place' we use a Display is usually variable, too. Frequently there is a window and the 'color' of the Daylight changes depending on time, weather, season, and how we may have our blinds, curtains, or shades, positioned at any given time. Even if we've avoided the 'window' variable by just having artificial illumination in our work space, those lamps, bulbs, and fixtures, bring both the 'inherent' issues of the light they give and the variability of their output in use and over time. Ooops almost forgot to mention the variables we can introduce by having a desk lamp on sometimes, but not other times, or switching between overheads or floor lamps during the day. Variable Soup! :-) -Further- Since we as 'users' are 'Human Beings', it means we are Biological and therefore are Variable. It's inherent in the 'technology' of the Bodies we use to Perceive the world around us. :-) It's neither a good thing, a bad thing, or any thing at all beyond a statement of the our variability. As a Diabetic and someone with both an inherent sense of color and the habits and experiences my 20+ years in Photography bring to the table, I can state categorically and irrefutable that something as simple as a variance in my Blood Sugar Level changes my Perceptions of Color! (InMyHumbleUnderstanding - the changed density and content of the fluids in my eye work to 'filter' the colors reaching the rods and cones in the eye and changing the 'appearance' of the world around me!). B: I want the images I send to a home printer to bear a close resemblence to what I see on my monitor before hitting print :-) This is where printer and paper (don't forget the paper!) profiles come in so useful. True, Profiles are 'where' it's at, but that is the wonder of the 'Color Munki' by xRite. It will calibrate most any display and projector and printer also! it has the ability to 'sample' the color of a physical object much like those systems they have at paint stores for matching paint to the color of a fabric sample you bring in by holding it under a sensor.. quite cool. C: I want to take advantage of the 'profiles' available from a Photo Lab I use to primarily print my photographs. :-) I would get on some pro/semi-pro digital photographer boards and ask your questions there. Surprisingly, The boards haven't been especially helpful, at least the ones I have interacted with. It boils down to the fact there is simply a low statistical probability of encountering someone who a: knows what they're talking about, b: can explain it, and/or c: has any experience implementing a color control process usable beyond the equipment and variables the person coped with 'fixing' their own color/ display/printing gremlins! My forlorn hope for finding a 'recipe' for implementing some color consistency or a straight forward list of do's and don't's has been utterly dashed at this point! I just got a book by Scott Kelby http://www.kelbytraining.com/books/ (The Photoshop CS4 for Digital Photographers book) which has a good section on calibrating and using profiles. I found the book easy to read and understand; he's got a reputation as a good teacher. I'll definitely aquire the book! -- Bruce Johnson Thanks Again Bruce --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Cable Select OR Master / Slave in a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz? (and DA Dual 533)
On Jun 17, 10:15 am, insightinmind billycarm...@verizon.net wrote: Someone stated (Peter, I believe, if I understood correctly) Apple, historically, uses an HP/Compaq patented Startup protocol that requires the Cable Select (slitted) off the mobo ATA cable at Startup, then, depending on the machine and particular hard drive specs, uses whatever the drive is set to (CS/Single/Master/Slave). First the caveat that I am only familiar ... to whatever extent I have an understanding ... with the hard drive side of this discussion. I haven't worked with PATA drives in a Mac and I certainly have *never* worked with a PPC Mac (though I *have* worked on PPC systems so the PPC is not a complete mystery to me ;-). What confuses me in the above is the speculation that the hardware might somehow require Cable Select. Support for Cable Select is mostly about the cable you use. The hardware/controller has a relatively small part to play. I'm basing that on what I read in this Wikipedia article which sounds credible to me. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AT_Attachment#Cable_select In particular ... Cable select is controlled by pin 28. The host adapter grounds this pin; if a device sees that the pin is grounded, it becomes the master device; if it sees that pin 28 is open, the device becomes the slave device. and Pin 28 is only used to let the drives know their position on the cable; it is not used by the host when communicating with the drives. To that I'd add that I can't see any way in which a controller could interegate pin 28 to learn anything about the attached drives. So I don't see how the hardware could require Cable Select in any way. Bottom line as I see it, there are three reasons why Cable Select might not work: 1) The drive doesn't support it (correctly). 2) The cable doesn't implement it correctly. (Most likely scenario and easiest to test for/fix IMO. PATA cables are one big PITA IMHO :) 3) The controller doesn't properly ground Pin 28. (Can't say how likely or not this might be. Depends on the age of the hardware, I suppose.) But, then again, I've been wrong before ... -irrational john --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where Do I Find Reliable Info On Color Critical Monitor Choices?
Hello Tortise! thank you for your response. I think it's length demonstrates the incredible maze of complex variables, theory, and differing goals, people are both interacting with and attempting to achieve. The option of giving easy answers to 'simple' questions is almost precluded by the difficulty of the topic itself and the challenges of the technologies involved. My personal choice at this time is to reach for something to give me a fixed point to interact with my variables from. Right now, I have the variability of my Display, the variability of my Perception, and the variability of how I transmit my images (internet, cd/dvd, or print). I can see and quantify the consistency or lack thereof depending on what I've done (or had done to me) with the variables I interact with. I have chosen to use a Color Calibration Device to quantify and measure my variables. It is the 'Yardstick' I will pick up to measure what various equipment is providing me at a given point in time or method of usage. Instead of measuring the deviation between the 'varying' display I am using against the 'varying' output method I used using the 'varying' perception provided by my human eyes and brain, I will be using a 'fixed' measuring device. I see my challenge as analagous to needing 1 foot sections of 2x2 lumber and cutting the board by 'eyeballing' my cuts. When I line up the '1ft' pieces up alongside each other, none of them will be the same length. If I'm experienced, practiced, and used to the saw I'm using, they might be close, but they won't be the same. If I'm inexperienced or suddenly using equipment I've not used before, those boards can be wildly disparate in their length and even if they are consistent, might not be anywhere close to exactly 12 inches in length because I have no benchmark for what 12 inches actually means! This is the Section of my Decision Tree I feel the most confidence about. I am acquiring a 'ruler' to make my measurements with. Where the 'rubber' meets the road is actually having positive things come of the 'Measurements' I make with my device. I ancedotally hear good things about the Software included with the ColorMunki ColorSpyder type devices and the 'relative' consistency the programs can bring to a users life. I have little info about using the software or their methodologies and zero experience actually physically using them. I am lucky in that I am implementing a system in order to satisfy personal goals and needs. A commercial or business imperative isn't involved here - ie: a Wedding Photographer spending a week doing his color balancing and image edits only to have his thousand dollar print and album order turn out to be jacked up and worthless. (Hint: Pro Labs aren't Walmart - you pay for what you as the customer send to print, if the bride is a subtle hint of orange in some and a subtle hint of plum in others because of the color of the light outside your window or you turned all the lights off in the evening, you get to pay twice for your client's prints. OUCH! As you can see, a 500 buck Color Calibrator is 'expensive', but if it saves a Single 1,000 buck print order it pays for itself. As a Home User, it can pay for itself in the Inkjet Ink you DIDNT waste across the months and years trying to make your 4x6's/5x7's/ 8x10's and such LOOK the way they ought and the way you expect them to. I am an ex-Darkroom Jockey. I recall the glory and satisfaction of having 'calibrated' my Camera, my Meter, my Film Development, and Print Processing, to reference standards. Instead of chasing my tail for an hour to get an 'acceptable' print from my negative, I could reliably get a usable 8x10 from it the first time thru the 'soup' and make creative choices from there! To be able to hit print and get a photo print out of my inkjet that might not be 'perfect' the first time, but isn't something I'd be ashamed to have seen is something I'd move heaven and earth for! I don't expect there to be an exact 'clone' of the image I interact with on my screen - physics and biology make that impossible - but 'consistently close' is more than enough! I know there is a challenge implementing a Color Calibration Scheme and that I have quite the range of theory and knowledge to more fully acquire and appreciate, but at least as an Informed Consumer I now know the things 'I Don't Know' and am acting to alleviate the gaps. Please remember the topic I gave this thread I started. I came asking if someone had somewhere to look or learn more about specific displays from the viewpoint of someone who values colors and images in a somewhat similar manner to myself. Richard :-) On Jun 17, 12:29 am, tortoise cymraeg...@gmail.com wrote: On Jun 15, 5:29 pm, aussieshepsrock ilovaussiesh...@yahoo.com wrote: Hi Adrian, good question re:Color Calibration's Usefulness To Me? It's easy to overlook the variable knowledge bases and interests of the list members in one's quest for assistance with
Re: Cable Select OR Master / Slave in a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz? (and DA Dual 533)
On Jun 17, 2009, at 10:14 AM, irrational john wrote: I'm basing that on what I read in this Wikipedia article which sounds credible to me. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AT_Attachment#Cable_select As usual Wiki is Wiki. Take it or leave it, as you choose. The background for the CS, first, during device initialization, and M/ S, second, during normal device operations, as employed by Apple in the BW and all later models, is ... US Patent 5761460 - Reconfigurable dual master IDE interface ... which patent teaches how an IDE interface may be utilized in a new and inventive way to: 1) determine if a cable is attached at all, 2) if a cable is attached, to determine which of 40-wire/40-pin or 80- wire/40-pin cable it is, 3) if a master device exists, to determine the fastest it is capable of being operated, 4) if a slave device exists, to determine the fastest it is capable of being operated, and, finally 5) given all of the above, the possible two semi-independent channels (on the one single bus) may be appropriately programmed for the best device utilization. Implicit in the above objectives, the devices themselves may interrogate the connector and its cable to determine how best to communicate with the host. In all of these discussions, the computer itself is the initiator (host), and the attached devices are responders (dependents whether master or slave doesn't matter as masters and slaves are actually peers of each other). For the particular case of modern optical drives, such as fast DVD burners, the burner needs to know if it can depend upon the host to ship data with high data integrity, and at a rate which will not cause the device to under-run (implicitly, a device cannot be over- run as the host is programmed to ensure this). So, the burners specifically look for the differences between the 40- wire/40-pin and the 80-wire/40-pin cable, and it limits the burn rate to 8X or less for the 40-wire/40-pin case, and possibly 20X or more (but surely more than 8X) for the 80-wire/40-pin case. From the patent text (abbreviated): ... SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION A dual-master data storage interface is disclosed which flexibly configures and connects data storage drives in the portable computer to optimize performance when the portable computer is operating in a stand-alone mode. The invention further optimizes accessibility to additional data storage drives when the portable computer is docked to an expansion unit. The interface has first and second channels adapted to control first and second data storage drives and registers for configuring each drive as a master drive or a slave drive. When the portable computer operates as a stand-alone unit (i.e., not docked to the expansion unit), each drive on the portable is configured to operate as a master drive which is separately connected to a channel to optimize performance. ... Upon separation, each drive on the portable computer is configured and remapped as a master on a separate channel for maximizing data transfer performance. Thus, by allowing for flexibility in changing the drive configuration and channel connection, the invention ensures compatibility with the standard BIOS when the portable computer is docked with the expansion unit. Further, the present invention optimizes data transfer performance from the drives when the portable computer is separated from the expansion unit. ... --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
(SOLVED) Re: Cable Select OR Master / Slave in a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz? (and DA Dual 533)
Thanks all. I'm satisfied that this thread is finished, problem solved, and then some. Bill Connelly --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
browser speed
Greetings, I am on an upgraded BW500mhz, 896MB RAM. Sonnet G4 upgrade. I have been using Firefox as my main browser, but decided to give a couple of other browsers a try to see if they showed video any better. I noticed that SeaMonkey showed a YouTube video much more smoothly that Firefox or the latest Safari. I am interested in learning why one browser is faster than another, and if there is anything I can do to my version of Firefox to make it run as fast on videos as SeaMonkey. I have Firefox 3.0.11. Firefox and Safari were badly out of sync when showing the same video. SeaMonkey was smoother and much less out of sync. Also: I noticed that some of my favorite sites (that require a login) did not recognize me when I used a different browser. What can I do to fix this annoying problem? Do I have to re-register? Thanks for any suggestions. Larry Eden --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: browser speed
That's probably just because they set cookies in your browser when you login to remember your login. Cookies are browser-specific, and I'm not sure if you could make a link to the cookies in Firefox from SeaMonkey, but just logging in on the website in SeaMonkey should fix your problem. Also, some sites are more security-conscious than others, and will expire your cookies if you login in another location, so if you login with Firefox and then SeaMonkey, the Firefox side you will have to re-login. Hope this helps... :) On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 2:12 PM, Lawrence David Edenlde...@comcast.net wrote: Also: I noticed that some of my favorite sites (that require a login) did not recognize me when I used a different browser. What can I do to fix this annoying problem? Do I have to re-register? -- ' With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured, the first thought forbidden, the first freedom denied, chains us all irrevocably.' Those words were uttered by Judge Aaron Satie as wisdom and warning... The first time any man's freedom is trodden on we’re all damaged. - Jean-Luc Picard, quoting Judge Aaron Satie, Star Trek: TNG episode The Drumhead - Alex Smith (K4RNT) - Murfreesboro/Nashville, Tennessee USA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
G5 bad choice?
I bought a G5 2.3 Dual on e-bay. I've been wrestling with my 2002 Quicksilver 933mhz for a long while. The next step on the Quicksilver was replacing the power supply and there was no way of knowing if that would solve my problems for sure. So, like I say, I bought the G5 2.3 Dual. A good friend who is much more computer savvy than me has advised me to sell it before getting it out of the box, that the G5 is at best highly problematic. I am aware that the next OS is leaving all but the intel behind, so that the G5 meant a commitment to a vestigal OS for a while, but I don't have the $ for the next step up. Thank goodness I bought an air-cooled model because subsequent research revealed a world of trouble with the liquid-cooled varieties). Please, if you would be so kind, share your experiences with the G5. What are the problems you've had and/or heard of? Thank you Vince Meghrouni --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Mozilla apps - Optimized for G3/G4
On Jun 17, 2009, at 11:03 AM, Bruce Johnson wrote: Manually stripping the extra language resources from TextEdit cut it down to 1.9 mb. A long time ago (meaning I don't know if this is currently true, I hope not?) I manually striped the language resources from Webkit and it destroyed the ability to search within Safari, and some versions wouldn't even launch after removal of some languages. I filed a bug report on this phenomenon, and very quickly I got a super-rude reply from a Webkit developer saying who did I think I was to 'lobotomize' their code and why should ANY software that's been manually 'butchered' by a user be expected to function normally? I was taken aback, and replied that I didn't think that hiding active code within the language files was a good idea, and that AFAIK no other applications did such a thing. It seemed as if this developer was acknowledging that the bug that I reported was in actuality purposeful and they were not only aware of it, but were dismissing my bug report because Webkit was designed to not work if certain languages were removed. I thought this was crazy, and still do. I hope things have changed since then? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Mozilla apps - Optimized for G3/G4
At 2:53 PM -0500 6/17/2009, Kris Tilford wrote: A long time ago (meaning I don't know if this is currently true, I hope not?) I manually striped the language resources from Webkit and it destroyed the ability to search within Safari, and some versions wouldn't even launch after removal of some languages. I filed a bug report on this phenomenon, and very quickly I got a super-rude reply from a Webkit developer saying who did I think I was to 'lobotomize' their code and why should ANY software that's been manually 'butchered' by a user be expected to function normally? While I cannot comment on what code was or was not included with the localizations,,, I agree with the sentiment. Developers work hard to produce *working* products. Having a user lobotomize them intentionally is just bad juju. Then there's the horrible support problem... As to the need for localization code... I can think of quite a few reasons for it. Depends on the languages involved - quite a few are not simple word-for-word substitutions to engrish. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: G5 bad choice?
On Jun 17, 2009, at 2:37 PM, Meghrouni Vince wrote: Please, if you would be so kind, share your experiences with the G5. What are the problems you've had and/or heard of? I have an air-cooled dual 2.3 G5 that was new old-stock in 2007, manufactured mid-2005. It had a power supply failure within the first week of usage, something that was a known issue for certain G5's, and was covered under an extended warranty program (caused by a lawsuit). See: http://www.apple.com/support/powermac/powersupply/repairextension/ Unfortunately my G5 was outside the serial group, although I mistakenly though it was included because I misread a 6 as an 8 in the serial. I made an appointment with an Apple Genius Bar and confidently thought it was covered, but then they showed me my error, and said the single digit meant mine was manufactured a single week too early to qualify (the serial contains date of manufacture info). I started to complain bitterly. I'd also had an iBook with the famous bad video chip that was excluded from the extended warranty by a matter of weeks, and I said so, and to my surprise Apple caved in and did my repair for free. There was a small glitch in the repair, they forgot to calibrate the thermal system, and the fans ran full out like a small airplane. I had to return it again, and wait another week, so it required 4 round trips to the Apple Store, nearly 560 miles driving, and $100 in gas toll for me. It took 4 weeks to get it back in working condition. Since then, no problems. My complaints would be that RAM is relatively expensive still, and there are almost no PCI-X cards that take advantage of the extra bandwidth, everything moved to PCI-e which the next G5's had (along with water cooling, a bad trade off). If you're being cheap and have some tech skills, the hackintosh route is cheapest and fastest, but again, it's always a trade-off: hassle and time vs. speed and cost. The G5 is ok in my book, as long as the power supply isn't in the warranty group. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Cable Select OR Master / Slave in a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz? (and DA Dual 533)
On Wed, 2009-06-17 at 09:27 -0400, Len Gerstel wrote: On Jun 17, 2009, at 4:11 AM, Ralph Green wrote: Use any flat IDE cable you want. Use 80 pin cables if you want speeds greater than 33 megabytes per second. I thought an IDE cable is an IDE cable is anso when you say to use 80 pin IDE for increased speed, what do you mean? Please expand It is not 80 pin, it is 80 wires. The cables still have the standard 40 pins. Yes. I should have said 80 wire. The connectors are all 40 pin. I usually save the 40 pin cables for older systems. But, it is good to know that you can use them for any parallel ATA drive, in a pinch. I help people rebuild older systems pretty often. To tell if you have a 80 wire cable, you can count the wires. Or, a shortcut is to look at one end. Count how many wires are in the width of one column of 2 pins. Look at the connector that plugs into the drive as 20 columns by 2 rows. If there are 2 wires for every row of 2 pins, it is a 40 wire cable. If there are 4 wires for every row of 2 pins, it is a 80 wire cable. Does that make sense? You could also hold the cables up against a cable you know is 40 or 80 wires. The 80 wire cables are noticeably different. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: G5 bad choice?
On 17/06/09 3:37 PM, Meghrouni Vince foomc...@sbcglobal.net wrote: A good friend who is much more computer savvy than me has advised me to sell it before getting it out of the box, that the G5 is at best highly problematic. I am aware that the next OS is leaving all but the intel behind, so that the G5 meant a commitment to a vestigal OS for a while, but I don't have the $ for the next step up. Thank goodness I bought an air-cooled model because subsequent research revealed a world of trouble with the liquid-cooled varieties). Please, if you would be so kind, share your experiences with the G5. What are the problems you've had and/or heard of? It depends on which dual you bought. Do you mean dual core or dual G5 processors? The dual G5 processors (2 actual G5 processors on a single mobo) had problems and I believe they had PCI-X slots. I have a dual-core 2.3GHz G5 that I bought back in 2007. These have the PCI-e slots. The ram for these are inexpensive as far as RAM goes and you can have a maximum of 16GB. I have had no trouble with it so far (knock on wood). Yes your friend is right that all Powermacs will be abandoned by Apple with Snow Leopard, however if you're not into having the latest and greatest then Leopard itself will suffice. Editing and burning home movies has been so much LESS cumbersome since I got my G5. I used to work on a BW modded with a G4 and oc'd to 600MHz - huge difference with the computing power. A lot of listers have expressed their anger/disappointment with Apple regarding the intel only requirement for 10.6, but aside from video editing and photography, I'm mostly surfing the web, reading e-mail or using Office so I'll stick with Leopard for now. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: G5 bad choice?
Much useful information, thank you. Vince On Jun 17, 2009, at 1:22 PM, Kris Tilford wrote: On Jun 17, 2009, at 2:37 PM, Meghrouni Vince wrote: Please, if you would be so kind, share your experiences with the G5. What are the problems you've had and/or heard of? I have an air-cooled dual 2.3 G5 that was new old-stock in 2007, manufactured mid-2005. It had a power supply failure within the first week of usage, something that was a known issue for certain G5's, and was covered under an extended warranty program (caused by a lawsuit). See: http://www.apple.com/support/powermac/powersupply/repairextension/ Unfortunately my G5 was outside the serial group, although I mistakenly though it was included because I misread a 6 as an 8 in the serial. I made an appointment with an Apple Genius Bar and confidently thought it was covered, but then they showed me my error, and said the single digit meant mine was manufactured a single week too early to qualify (the serial contains date of manufacture info). I started to complain bitterly. I'd also had an iBook with the famous bad video chip that was excluded from the extended warranty by a matter of weeks, and I said so, and to my surprise Apple caved in and did my repair for free. There was a small glitch in the repair, they forgot to calibrate the thermal system, and the fans ran full out like a small airplane. I had to return it again, and wait another week, so it required 4 round trips to the Apple Store, nearly 560 miles driving, and $100 in gas toll for me. It took 4 weeks to get it back in working condition. Since then, no problems. My complaints would be that RAM is relatively expensive still, and there are almost no PCI-X cards that take advantage of the extra bandwidth, everything moved to PCI-e which the next G5's had (along with water cooling, a bad trade off). If you're being cheap and have some tech skills, the hackintosh route is cheapest and fastest, but again, it's always a trade-off: hassle and time vs. speed and cost. The G5 is ok in my book, as long as the power supply isn't in the warranty group. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: G5 bad choice?
It is a dual core, late 2005 series. Sounds like good news to me. I don't like the idea of not being able to keep up with the latest OS, but that's my own lack of computer savvy considering my own needs. My uses are similar to your stated uses, except I don't do video editing. If I started with some video editing, however, it would advance some of my causes. The plan is also to do audio work via Pro Tools on this machine as well, and to my knowledge that will not require being down with the latest and greatest OS. This machine was meant to keep me in the digital world until I can get on board with the Intel. At $650 I figured it would give me processing power, memory, etc., to do what I intended to do until I had the dough to make the next step. The hope was that I'd get a good three or four year run. Maybe this wasn't such a naive idea? Thanks for your extremely useful input. One thing I do believe I've learned is that I don't know enough about this stuff to be buying used computers. Vince On Jun 17, 2009, at 1:40 PM, Arnel Tuazon wrote: On 17/06/09 3:37 PM, Meghrouni Vince foomc...@sbcglobal.net wrote: A good friend who is much more computer savvy than me has advised me to sell it before getting it out of the box, that the G5 is at best highly problematic. I am aware that the next OS is leaving all but the intel behind, so that the G5 meant a commitment to a vestigal OS for a while, but I don't have the $ for the next step up. Thank goodness I bought an air-cooled model because subsequent research revealed a world of trouble with the liquid-cooled varieties). Please, if you would be so kind, share your experiences with the G5. What are the problems you've had and/or heard of? It depends on which dual you bought. Do you mean dual core or dual G5 processors? The dual G5 processors (2 actual G5 processors on a single mobo) had problems and I believe they had PCI-X slots. I have a dual-core 2.3GHz G5 that I bought back in 2007. These have the PCI-e slots. The ram for these are inexpensive as far as RAM goes and you can have a maximum of 16GB. I have had no trouble with it so far (knock on wood). Yes your friend is right that all Powermacs will be abandoned by Apple with Snow Leopard, however if you're not into having the latest and greatest then Leopard itself will suffice. Editing and burning home movies has been so much LESS cumbersome since I got my G5. I used to work on a BW modded with a G4 and oc'd to 600MHz - huge difference with the computing power. A lot of listers have expressed their anger/disappointment with Apple regarding the intel only requirement for 10.6, but aside from video editing and photography, I'm mostly surfing the web, reading e-mail or using Office so I'll stick with Leopard for now. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
emac hard drive
Does anyone know if I can add a second hard drive to my emac? It is 1.25 Ghz 1gb ram 80 gb HD, 10.5.7 usb 2.0 superdrive model. Thanks so much --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: emac hard drive
On Jun 17, 2009, at 3:11 PM, deftone_75 wrote: Does anyone know if I can add a second hard drive to my emac? It is 1.25 Ghz 1gb ram 80 gb HD, 10.5.7 usb 2.0 superdrive model. Internally, there is no space, unless you remove the optical drive and cobble up a bracket to hold the second drive. Your best bet would be to add an external drive -- either firewire or USB. -- Jim --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: emac hard drive
If you go with an external hard drive I would definately reccommnd a firewire drive. USB sucks on mac. Firewire is definately the way to go. -Jonas On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 2:50 PM, Jim Scottjesco...@gmail.com wrote: On Jun 17, 2009, at 3:11 PM, deftone_75 wrote: Does anyone know if I can add a second hard drive to my emac? It is 1.25 Ghz 1gb ram 80 gb HD, 10.5.7 usb 2.0 superdrive model. Internally, there is no space, unless you remove the optical drive and cobble up a bracket to hold the second drive. Your best bet would be to add an external drive -- either firewire or USB. -- Jim --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: emac hard drive
On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 7:01 PM, Jonas Ulrichjonasulrich3...@gmail.com wrote: USB sucks on mac. Firewire is definately the way to go. While I wouldn't completely agree that USB 2.0 sucks compared to Firewire, I have no problem asserting that USB 2.0 is definitely a lot less special than Firewire is when it comes to throughput for an external drive. I have found this to be true regardless of the platform. Firewire is (slightly but definitely) better than USB 2.0 on both a Mac and a PC. (At least in my experience). That said, I saw my first USB 3.0 article today. Dang! And I was just beginning to reconcile myself to a world dominated by USB 2.0 and eSATA ... -irrationa john --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: A polite netiquette back and forth
Previously, at 3:14 pm -0400 6/16/09, Len Gerstel wrote: Now as Len, a regular member of the G3-5 List: If you noticed, some of the most vocal supporters of bottom posting and trimming camp are the most prolific and helpful posters on the list. Wouldn't you want to suck up to them to get their help? Wouldn't you want to make it (what they see as) the easiest way for them to read the posts and help you? Len Point well made. And the wise will take - and benefit from - it. P. -- 'Eternal Vigilance Is The Price of Liberty' used to mean we watched the government- not the other way around. -- Bill Stewart --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: A polite netiquette back and forth
Previously, at 3:28 pm -0400 6/16/09, Peter wrote: You shouldn't suckup to anybody. Perhaps not the best choice of words, but the meaning was clear to me! p. -- All power corrupts, but we need the electricity. -- Unknown --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: emac hard drive
deftone_75 wrote: Does anyone know if I can add a second hard drive to my emac? It is 1.25 Ghz 1gb ram 80 gb HD, 10.5.7 usb 2.0 superdrive model. Thanks so much You can but only externally via FireWire (preferred) or USB. Considering the price of HDs it's pretty trivial to replace the 80Gb with a much bigger drive. I recently had to replace the HD in my Mini. When I looked around I found a 320Gb drive for something like $80 and that is for a laptop drive. So instead of adding a drive just replace it with a big enough drive. -- Clark Martin Redwood City, CA, USA Macintosh / Internet Consulting I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: G5 bad choice?
On 17/06/09 4:56 PM, Meghrouni Vince foomc...@sbcglobal.net wrote: It is a dual core, late 2005 series. Sounds like good news to me. I don't like the idea of not being able to keep up with the latest OS, but that's my own lack of computer savvy considering my own needs. My uses are similar to your stated uses, except I don't do video editing. If I started with some video editing, however, it would advance some of my causes. The plan is also to do audio work via Pro Tools on this machine as well, and to my knowledge that will not require being down with the latest and greatest OS. This machine was meant to keep me in the digital world until I can get on board with the Intel. At $650 I figured it would give me processing power, memory, etc., to do what I intended to do until I had the dough to make the next step. The hope was that I'd get a good three or four year run. Maybe this wasn't such a naive idea? Thanks for your extremely useful input. One thing I do believe I've learned is that I don't know enough about this stuff to be buying used computers. Vince The thing with Macs is they were always built with foresight. Apple always seem to predict what was going to be needed in the future. Look at USB, when the BW came out people were saying that Apple took a gamble going USB only (although they did include one ADB port for use with old school keyboards and track pads). Now everything is USB. Your G5 (I'd get more RAM if I were you) should last you at least 3 more years before you'd start considering a new machine. You'll be just fine using Pro Tools with your G5. As I said before always consider what you will use your machine for before you buy it. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
USB Need
I have a camera that takes a USB connector to connect it to my Mac. The problem is I need a Male to Male connector. Rat Shack (Radio Shack) wants $40 for one with software (and if it does not work you CANNOT return it at all since it comes with Software). Where might I cheaply find such a beast? -- Steve Conrad Henrietta, MO 64036 The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle behind; to go forth and claim our place in outer space. - Capt. Henry Gloval (\__/) (='.'=) ()_() Help Bunny Take Over The World! --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: [G3-5]USB Need
On 6/17/09 11:20 PM, Stephen Conrad at khel...@gmail.com wrote: Where might I cheaply find such a beast? Wow... Pretty expensive! But it depends on the kind of male conector is needed for your camera. But even considering this I cannot conceive anything beyond a 10-dollar price tag, sincerely. -- MaGioZal. http://twitter.com/magiozal/ --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: USB Need
On Jun 17, 2009, at 9:20 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote: I have a camera that takes a USB connector to connect it to my Mac. The problem is I need a Male to Male connector. Rat Shack (Radio Shack) wants $40 for one with software (and if it does not work you CANNOT return it at all since it comes with Software). Where might I cheaply find such a beast? Dare I suggest looking on eBay? I found what I was looking for there and the price was under $10.00 shipped for two of them. If I remember correctly. It has been a while now. Regards, Mike --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: USB Need
I have a camera that takes a USB connector to connect it to my Mac. The problem is I need a Male to Male connector. Rat Shack (Radio Shack) wants $40 for one with software (and if it does not work you CANNOT return it at all since it comes with Software). Where might I cheaply find such a beast? This is a Type A to Type A Male-to-Male connector, am I correct? If that's what you're looking for, Amazon seems to have one for $2: http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-USB-Cable-Male-Beige/dp/B000BSJFFC And yes. RadioShack is overpriced. Hope that helps, Isaac --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Orig. Airport card vs. PCI wireless card
On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 9:46 PM, Arnel Tuazona.tua...@gmail.com wrote: Quick question: Which is better (more stable) an original Airport card (802.11b) or a PCI wireless card that is 802.11n ? IMO that's a question that can't really be answered as asked. I don't believe the stability of a connection has much to do with whether the protocol used is 802.11b or n. I wouldn't approach the question of what adapter to use this way. In no particular order some of the questions I'd ask are ... * How many devices would be using your wireless network initially? Would they all be capable of using 802.11n or only some of them? If only some, what protocols could the other devices use? * What's your best guess as to how your wireless network will change with time? That is, what new stuff do you think you might get that you'd want to also include in your network? * What sort of distances and what sort of signal barriers are you expecting your wireless network to work over. Would there be interference from other devices such as cordless phones, other people's wireless nets, et cetera? * What would you use the network for? It can range from just surfing the net via a web browser to trying to streaming 1080p HD video to trying to move large files routinely via wireless. I know the n is WAY faster, but I'm thinking of stability in terms of dropped connections, problems re-connecting, etc. 802.11n can be noticeably faster than 802.11b. But if you don't think things through ahead of time you might not realize the potential the marketeering types allege in their cryptic ad bites. That said, 802.11b is pretty well dead at this point in time and I wouldn't advise anyone to go that route unless they had very compelling reasons to do so. Or equivalently, compelling reasons why they would NOT want to go with 802.11n. The fact that you would be using an 802.11n capable router makes me wonder why on earth you'd stick with b. But I really don't know your context and doing so may very well make sense for you. Which flavor of Airport Extreme base station would you be using? The original version which I believe can only use either 2.4GHz or the 5GHz band, but not both bands simultaneously? Or the newer, Early 2009 flavor which apparently can use both the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands simultaneously? (Not sure just what simultaneously means in this context, but it sure sounds neat, doesn't it? I wonder if it actually is neat or just more marketeer-speak. ;-) -irrational john --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: USB Need
On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 10:40 PM, Isaac Smithsmith...@sprynet.com wrote: I have a camera that takes a USB connector to connect it to my Mac. The problem is I need a Male to Male connector. One of the reasons I have always disliked the USB protocol is that the designers seemed to have a connector fetish. Why else would they have included so many different types of connectors. Anyway, at times like this I don't really know how else to figure out what the other person thinks they need than to reference some sort of USB connector chart. For convenience I just went to the dreaded wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Types_of_USB_connector Do any of those connector types look familar? Could you say which of them your camera need to connect to a PC? Type-A or Type B or the mini or micro flavors? And are you sure both ends need to be the same type of connector? (That's less common in my experience with USB ... but maybe I'm just showing my lack of experience?) -irrational john --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: USB Need
If you have Big Lots stores in your area, they usually have various usb items cheap. I remember seeing one that included a pile of different adapters, and it didn't come with software. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: USB Need
On Jun 17, 2009, at 10:19 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote: Type-A The same one you see on USB Flash Drives OK. Buy the $2 cable from Amazon that was previously posted: http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-USB-Cable-Male-Beige/dp/B000BSJFFC --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
