Will this power supply work in my G4 MDD?

[Tom]

My G4 1.42 GHz DP Mac tower won't start up anymore (it got harder and
harder to start and finally quit), and I replaced the motherboard
battery with no effect, so I guess the power supply has died.

There is a G4 power supply for sale on eBay right now:  but neither I nor the seller knows whether it
will work in this Mac. Can anybody tell me if it will?

If it won't, then where can power supplies for this Mac be looked for?
And is the swap-out a simple matter of unplugging the old power supply
and plugging in the new?

Any advice on this would be appreciated. This MDD has been a faithful
old beast over the years, a real workhorse, and never gave any trouble
before this. It would be worth resurrecting if a new power supply
would do it.

Tom

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Re: USB Question

[Kris Tilford]

On Dec 5, 2010, at 1:50 AM, Stephen Conrad wrote:


Were they right or do I need to order a cord from Belkin?


Yes, they were right. No, you don't need to order from Belkin, ANY 5v  
with the correct plug, current, polarity, and amperage will work fine.  
It may be simplest to get the Belkin. You could probably buy a new  
powered USB hub for the same price as the power supply from Belkin.


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Re: Will this power supply work in my G4 MDD?

[Kris Tilford]

On Dec 5, 2010, at 2:14 AM, Tom wrote:


Can anybody tell me if it will?


The action description says it model# 614-0108, which Google says is  
for a Rev.2 Sawtooth, so it appears the answer is no, it probably  
won't work. The one you need is likely #614-0183 in 400 watt.


On YouTube there are plenty of videos showing how to modify a standard  
ATX power supply for use in a MDD Mac, which is a LOT cheaper:



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Re: Nanny note Re: 2 Questions

[Ted Treen]

Professor John Michael Tamine
Department of Chemistry
Waynesburg University
51 W College St
Waynesburg, PA 15370

Inspiring students to pursue lives of purpose since 1849

   


You've been working for 161 years?

Or is that since 11 minutes to 7?

Ted


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Re: Quicksilver Freezes during software update

[Jonas Ulrich]

I think I might have figured it out. I was reading a website about
adapting ATX power supplies to G4 powermacs, and something the  author
said caught my attention. He said that one drawback is that deep sleep
requires 5v and the ATX power supply can't do this, and putting it to
sleep could result in freezes upon waking.

While this machine has the stock power supply, what if it is faulty,
and that is why it freezes after waking up.

Just a thought.

-Jonas

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Re: USB Question

[Clark Martin]

On Dec 4, 2010, at 11:50 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:

The folks as The Apple Store on the Country Club Plaza (Kansas  
City, MO) said I'd be fine using a 6V DC power cord on my USB 4- 
Port Hub that says it needs a 5V DC power cord (they said it would  
only draw 5V DC). I asked them as the only Universal AC Adaptor I  
could find has 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9 and 12V settings (Voltage Selector).

Were they right or do I need to order a cord from Belkin?


First go back to the store and tell them they are quite wrong.

General rules of power supplies in particular, wall warts.

1 Polarity is most important, get it wrong and BAD things happen  
faster than you can see.


2 Voltage needs to be right.
	In some cases it can be higher or lower than spec'ed but only if you  
know what you are doing.
	Otherwise it should be as spec'ed.  Devices don't "draw" voltage,  
they get what you give them.


3 Current needs to be at least what is required but can be more.
	Caveat to this rule is that many power supplies are expected to be  
loaded down by a certain amount of current.
	That is the output voltage drops as the load (current) increases.   
This is factored into the design.
	So if you use a power supply that has a significantly higher current  
rating that the device it may well supply

too much voltage.

4 The connector needs to match.  This is last because if it doesn't  
match nothing happens.


The typical power supply for a USB hub is a regulated supply.  This  
means that whether it has no load on it or it's maximum load the  
output voltage is regulated to within a few percent of 5V.  Your  
typical universal wall wart isn't regulated so it's voltage could be  
several volts above or below 5V.


An unregulated 6 volt wall wart, especially one rated for 2.5 amps is  
likely to put out about 8 volts with just the hub connected.  But  
even if it's spot on at 6 volts you run the risk of blowing the hub  
and everything plugged into it.


You may be able to find a suitable replacement power supply as all 4  
port USB powered hubs I've checked use a 5V power supply rated at 2.1  
to 2.5A.  But do watch out for polarity and the connector.


You are probably better off just going out and buying a new hub.  The  
latest hubs I've bought were Belkin 4 port at the local Target store  
for $15-$20.  IF Belkin will sell you a new power supply it may run  
nearly that much to buy it, including shipping and handling.  If you  
buy a replacement locally then you can still use your old one as a  
bus powered hub (for light loads only.


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Re: Nanny note Re: 2 Questions

[Dennis Myhand]

ah...clem wrote:

On Dec 4, 7:34 pm, Len Gerstel  wrote:
  

John,

I know it is very small, and probably part of your sig, but please do not send 
any attachments to the list.

Thanks,
Len Gerstel
List Nanny



exsqueeze me, mr. list nanny sir, but why are you picking on only one
person here, john carmonne? (Rest of rambling diatribe edited out for pity's 
sake)

THANK YOU.

  
Why is asking someone to "please not send any attachments to the list," 
picking on someone?  If you have a beef with the list nanny, have the 
courtesy to take it up with them.  If there is something that they are 
allowing, like some of the stupidest tag lines in existence, take it up 
with the nanny instead of trying to use it to make them look bad in 
front of the list.  But don't subject the rest of the list to your bad 
manners.  And stupid tag lines are not against the list rules.  
Attachments are.  Grow up.  Dennis Myhand


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Re: Beating a dead horse? - Flashing "PC" video cards for a Power Mac

[Justin The Cynical]

On 12/4/10 6:43 PM, dc wrote:
>> I recently brought my old 733 Digital Audio back to life.  Currently
>> it's sporting a modified 5200 from a G5, but after digging in my parts
>> pile, I've found a 9600XT from Sapphire.
> 
> If the VRAM chips (there should be 4 of them on the fan side of the
> card) are square it can probably be flashed, if they are rectangular
> it cannot be flashed for a Mac. If it looks like it may be compatible
> the info on themacelite website is still good.

Looking at the card I have handy, it's not BGA RAM, so by the wiki, it's
not compatible.

I don't know if the incompatibility is because the ROM can't deal with
the different RAM type or it's just speed, in which case there are tools
to slow down the speed the ROM tells the card to use.

That's one of the questions that I can't seem to find an answer for.
Any insight?

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Re: G4 DP 450 Gig-E issues

[Amanda Ward]

On Dec 4, 2010, at 10:51 PM, Dan wrote:

> At 10:01 PM -0500 12/4/2010, rtows...@aol.com wrote:
>> 1. Pulled video card, ram & HD, replaced pram battery. Still no 
>> beeps/chimes/fans or HD spin.
>> 2. Power Supply shows no 28v so guess it's the supply.
> 
> Sounds like it.
> 
>> Going looking for one now :-(
> 
> The GigE and DA use the same basic supply.
> 
> When you get done gasping at the power supply prices, check this out:
> 

Nice. I ended up buying a parts machine (with P/S) for less than a power supply 
alone would have cost me. 

Amanda


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Re: USB Question

[Stephen Conrad]

On Sun, Dec 5, 2010 at 4:02 AM, Clark Martin  wrote:

>
> On Dec 4, 2010, at 11:50 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:
>
>  The folks as The Apple Store on the Country Club Plaza (Kansas City, MO)
>> said I'd be fine using a 6V DC power cord on my USB 4-Port Hub that says it
>> needs a 5V DC power cord (they said it would only draw 5V DC). I asked them
>> as the only Universal AC Adaptor I could find has 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9 and 12V
>> settings (Voltage Selector).
>> Were they right or do I need to order a cord from Belkin?
>>
>
> First go back to the store and tell them they are quite wrong.
>

-> I spoke to the Genius Bar folks on the phone. Apple's own Tech Support
folks agreed with these guys.

>
> General rules of power supplies in particular, wall warts.
>
> 1 Polarity is most important, get it wrong and BAD things happen faster
> than you can see.
>
> -> I got this right, made sure to do that. It is a + 5V tip


> 2 Voltage needs to be right.
>In some cases it can be higher or lower than spec'ed but only if you
> know what you are doing.
>Otherwise it should be as spec'ed.  Devices don't "draw" voltage,
> they get what you give them.
>
> 3 Current needs to be at least what is required but can be more.
>Caveat to this rule is that many power supplies are expected to be
> loaded down by a certain amount of current.
>That is the output voltage drops as the load (current) increases.
>  This is factored into the design.
>So if you use a power supply that has a significantly higher current
> rating that the device it may well supply
>too much voltage.
>

-> Should I drop it to 4.5 then?


>
> 4 The connector needs to match.  This is last because if it doesn't match
> nothing happens.
>

-> When I switched it from Bus-Powered to Self-Powered it worked fine

>
> The typical power supply for a USB hub is a regulated supply.  This means
> that whether it has no load on it or it's maximum load the output voltage is
> regulated to within a few percent of 5V.  Your typical universal wall wart
> isn't regulated so it's voltage could be several volts above or below 5V.
>
> An unregulated 6 volt wall wart, especially one rated for 2.5 amps is
> likely to put out about 8 volts with just the hub connected.  But even if
> it's spot on at 6 volts you run the risk of blowing the hub and everything
> plugged into it.
>
> You may be able to find a suitable replacement power supply as all 4 port
> USB powered hubs I've checked use a 5V power supply rated at 2.1 to 2.5A.
>  But do watch out for polarity and the connector.
>

-> How do I know the Amps? Nowhere in the paperwork of on the card does it
say anything about this.

>
> You are probably better off just going out and buying a new hub.  The
> latest hubs I've bought were Belkin 4 port at the local Target store for
> $15-$20.  IF Belkin will sell you a new power supply it may run nearly that
> much to buy it, including shipping and handling.  If you buy a replacement
> locally then you can still use your old one as a bus powered hub (for light
> loads only.


-> If only I had a target closer than Kansas City (45 miles roughly).
Walmart USED to sell lots of computer stuff but after the remodel that
section was pretty much gutted.

>
>
> --
Steve Conrad
Henrietta, MO 64036

"The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle behind; to go
forth and claim our place in outer space."
   - Capt. Henry Gloval


(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
Help Bunny Take Over The World!

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Re: Nanny note Re: 2 Questions

[Tina K.]

On 2010/12/05 00:12, ah...clem so eloquently wrote:

Dija read the rules ah...clem?

No attachments.  Simple as that.

-- 
Tim 
list moderator


wow.




Plonk.

Tina

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10.5.8


PowerBook G4 15" HiRes DLSD 1.67GHz G4 2GB RAM Radeon 9700 128MB DDR 
Leopard 10.5.8


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Re: Cube processor upgrade?

[Vic]

On Dec 4, 2:19 pm, John Carmonne  wrote:
> Hi All
> I have a Cube with a Sonnet 1.2 and 1.5 GB RAM. I get a lot of SPOD (beach 
> ball) when trying to do a Carbon Copy Clone Between 2 FW ports  and it 
> doesn't matter which drive I'm booted to. It seems to be real slow and I'm 
> wondering if a Logic board can do this. I've tested it with all the apps I 
> have and they all say everything's OK. It seems any time I do any thing with 
> drives like CCC for instance it will SPOD forever and I have to force 
> shutdown and restart.
>
> John Carmonne
> Yorba Linda USA
> Sent from my MBP

While I don't have a processor upgrade in my Cube, I noticed a similar
effect with a G4 upgrade in my Pismo: it would never boot in target
mode with the upgrade card - stock processor; no problem.  You may
wish to swap them out to verify if this is the case with your Cube.
V Mabus
[no signature]

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Re: Nanny note Re: 2 Questions

[Len Gerstel]

OK folks a few things.

My apologies to John. That was supposed to have gone to him off list. Sorry.

Attachments are not allowed on any Low End Mac mailing list. No exceptions for 
sigs, screen shots of a problem, cute kitty cats, viruses from a windows pc or 
any thing else. NO attachments.

As to overly long sigs. The LEM guide to netiquette at:

http://lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml

States:

Signature lines

• Signature blocks (sigs) are considered personal expression as long as 
the poster's name comes between the body of the message and the sig.
• Please keep your signature concise. Six lines or less is best. Ten or 
more is excessive.
• Many email clients wrap text at 80 characters or less (sometimes as 
little as 72); check that your signature doesn't wrap badly because of this.
• Taglines should be clearly separated from the body of the email and 
should come after your name.
• Avoid vulgar and offensive taglines.

Both the netiquette guide and the full G Group FAQ are linked to from the 
Google Groups G List page. 

Len Gerstel
List Nanny

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Re: Nanny note Re: 2 Questions

[Al Poulin]

On Dec 5, 2:12 am, "ah...clem"  wrote:

> ya know, rules are made by people, so that the rules can serve us.
> not so we can serve them.  and when they are broken, then they need to
> be fixed.  not saluted.  clearly the spirit of the rule is not only to
> save bandwidth (which is today, on google, a moot point), but to keep
> irrelevant, repetitive, and annoying garbage out of the threads.

Moot point?  Not entirely.  Let's all respect those of us who receive
list content in e-mail, not only in feed mode, but also in digest
mode.  Bandwidth has to do with my eyes rapidly scanning text for
relevant information.  Bandwidth impacts those of us on dial-up
service.  Bandwidth has an impact in some countries where service is
charged to the end receiver by connection time.  And yes, the
netiquette calls for a reasonable, specified limit on the size of the
signature, obviously somewhat exceeded here.

Al Poulin

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Re: Nanny note Re: 2 Questions

[John Carmonne]

On Dec 5, 2010, at 8:56 AM, Len Gerstel wrote:

> OK folks a few things.
> 
> My apologies to John. That was supposed to have gone to him off list. Sorry.
> 
> Attachments are not allowed on any Low End Mac mailing list. No exceptions 
> for sigs, screen shots of a problem, cute kitty cats, viruses from a windows 
> pc or any thing else. NO attachments.
> 
> As to overly long sigs. The LEM guide to netiquette at:
> 
> http://lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml
> 

No problem Len happy I'm allowed to post:-)
Ok back to the OT,  "2 Questions"has anyone else fried USB devices using 
the prementioned adaptors?

John Carmonne
Yorba Linda USA
Sent from my MBP




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Re: Nanny note Re: 2 Questions

[John Callahan]

On Dec 5, 2010, at 7:17 AM, Dennis Myhand wrote:


ah...clem wrote:

On Dec 4, 7:34 pm, Len Gerstel  wrote:


John,

I know it is very small, and probably part of your sig, but  
please do not send any attachments to the list.


Thanks,
Len Gerstel
List Nanny



exsqueeze me, mr. list nanny sir, but why are you picking on only one
person here, john carmonne? (Rest of rambling diatribe edited out  
for pity's sake)


THANK YOU.


Why is asking someone to "please not send any attachments to the  
list," picking on someone?  If you have a beef with the list nanny,  
have the courtesy to take it up with them.  If there is something  
that they are allowing, like some of the stupidest tag lines in  
existence, take it up with the nanny instead of trying to use it to  
make them look bad in front of the list.  But don't subject the  
rest of the list to your bad manners.  And stupid tag lines are not  
against the list rules.  Attachments are.  Grow up.  Dennis Myhand




Way to go Dennis!!
SO WATCH IT!!!

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Re: G4 933 quicksilver

[Bruce Johnson]

On Dec 4, 2010, at 6:17 PM, Baldassare Guzzo wrote:

> Thank you.  Ill give it a try.  I just delete it from the accounts panel or 
> do I remove it from the system somewhere also?


Just deleting it from the accounts panel should do the trick, although earlier 
versions of the HP software checked to see of it was installed whenever you 
used the scanner, and re-installed it. IN that case I reccomend ripping out all 
the HP software and just using something like VueScan to do the scanning. 
However I last encountered that behavior back in the 10.2 days; I'm pretty sure 
HP has gotten more civilized since then.


-- 
Bruce Johnson

"Wherever you go, there you are" B. Banzai,  PhD

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Re: pic

[John Callahan]

On Dec 3, 2010, at 10:59 PM, Kris Tilford wrote:




Thanks for the explanation, must be that's what happened. Much obliged.



I'm not as young as I used to be But
I'm not as old as I'm going to be!
SO WATCH IT!!!

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Re: G4 933 quicksilver

[Dan]

At 11:55 AM -0700 12/5/2010, Bruce Johnson wrote:
Just deleting it from the accounts panel should do the trick, 
although earlier versions of the HP software checked to see of it 
was installed whenever you used the scanner, and re-installed it. IN 
that case I reccomend ripping out all the HP software and just using 
something like VueScan to do the scanning. However I last 
encountered that behavior back in the 10.2 days; I'm pretty sure HP 
has gotten more civilized since then.


"Civilized" is relative.

Yes, remove "HP ScanJet Manager" from the user's login items list. 
It will stay removed.


Then you can just use the PrecisionScan software, etc, normally.  It 
all lives in /Applications/ Hewlett-Packard/.  What I did was create 
an alias to that directory, and stick it into my Pictures folder. 
That way I can easily access all of it.  I do NOT recommend moving 
the Hewlett-Packard folder out of /Applications, as that seems to 
break things.


If you want the front buttons and such to work, then you can manually 
launch the ScanJet Manager.app as-needed.  Just DON'T leave it 
running -- it has several serious memory leaks!  Easiest way to kill 
it when you're done is with Activity Monitor.


- Dan.
--
- Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth.

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Re: Can I boot a quicksilver off an internal SCSI drive?

[Dana Collins]

On 12/1/10 8:43 PM, Deiniol ap Deiniol of autolycus.mercat...@googlemail.com
sent

> My latest Quicksilver is a 933 G4 with 1.5GB memory, running 10.4.11.
> I've installed  a 120GB first drive, along with another 120GB drive
> which was the Time Machine drive for the Leopard that came on its
> original 60 GB hard drive.
>  I fancy transferring the SCSI card from my 733 QS along with its
> 80GB  drive, with a view to either:
>  installing Leopard on it,
> or putting a Linux on there.
> Is this feasible. I've done a quick Google without really getting
> anywhere, but on this list there are people who know this stuff!
> Dan (in ice-bound North Wales)


Hello Dan,
I don't know if you received a response yet to this query, but perhaps I can
share with you my experience to date. Afaik, as long as the issue involves
PCI-based New World Macs (from the G3 smurfs to the earlier MDDs) and an OS
no later than Tiger, booting off of a SCSI hosted drive is quite feasible,
providing the firmware of the card in question supports it. In my case, I
was always able to boot into OS X and OS 9 by using the Adaptec 2930CU/
card, which were OEM-provided for many a G3 unit that I worked on. The
similarly designed 2930B card was mountable under OS X, but any drive
attached to it was non-bootable (hence the CU vs. B designation was quite
important). I am pretty sure there are other SCSI host cards made that do
this (by Initio and Orange Micro), but I have not had experience with such.

I will not say that your projected goal is not compatible with this card
(i.e. Leopard, or Linux, or using a PCI-based G5), but I have no experiences
with such scenarios to be able to speak of. Hope this helps somewhat.
Best regards,
Dana


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Re: USB Question

[Clark Martin]

On Dec 5, 2010, at 5:55 AM, Stephen Conrad wrote:

> On Sun, Dec 5, 2010 at 4:02 AM, Clark Martin  wrote:
> 
> On Dec 4, 2010, at 11:50 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:
> 
> The folks as The Apple Store on the Country Club Plaza (Kansas City, MO) said 
> I'd be fine using a 6V DC power cord on my USB 4-Port Hub that says it needs 
> a 5V DC power cord (they said it would only draw 5V DC). I asked them as the 
> only Universal AC Adaptor I could find has 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9 and 12V settings 
> (Voltage Selector).
> Were they right or do I need to order a cord from Belkin?
> 
> First go back to the store and tell them they are quite wrong.
> 
> -> I spoke to the Genius Bar folks on the phone. Apple's own Tech Support 
> folks agreed with these guys.
> 
> General rules of power supplies in particular, wall warts.
> 
> 1 Polarity is most important, get it wrong and BAD things happen faster than 
> you can see.
> 
> -> I got this right, made sure to do that. It is a + 5V tip
>  
> 2 Voltage needs to be right.
>In some cases it can be higher or lower than spec'ed but only if you 
> know what you are doing.
>Otherwise it should be as spec'ed.  Devices don't "draw" voltage, they 
> get what you give them.
> 
> 3 Current needs to be at least what is required but can be more.
>Caveat to this rule is that many power supplies are expected to be 
> loaded down by a certain amount of current.
>That is the output voltage drops as the load (current) increases.  
> This is factored into the design.
>So if you use a power supply that has a significantly higher current 
> rating that the device it may well supply
>too much voltage.
> 
> -> Should I drop it to 4.5 then?
>  
> 
> 4 The connector needs to match.  This is last because if it doesn't match 
> nothing happens.
> 
> -> When I switched it from Bus-Powered to Self-Powered it worked fine
> 
> The typical power supply for a USB hub is a regulated supply.  This means 
> that whether it has no load on it or it's maximum load the output voltage is 
> regulated to within a few percent of 5V.  Your typical universal wall wart 
> isn't regulated so it's voltage could be several volts above or below 5V.
> 
> An unregulated 6 volt wall wart, especially one rated for 2.5 amps is likely 
> to put out about 8 volts with just the hub connected.  But even if it's spot 
> on at 6 volts you run the risk of blowing the hub and everything plugged into 
> it.
> 
> You may be able to find a suitable replacement power supply as all 4 port USB 
> powered hubs I've checked use a 5V power supply rated at 2.1 to 2.5A.  But do 
> watch out for polarity and the connector.
> 
> -> How do I know the Amps? Nowhere in the paperwork of on the card does it 
> say anything about this. 

"Card"?  Do you mean the hub?

The hub will require 2.1 to 2.5A.  Each port needs to be able to supply .5 A 
and the hub itself needs some.

> 
> You are probably better off just going out and buying a new hub.  The latest 
> hubs I've bought were Belkin 4 port at the local Target store for $15-$20.  
> IF Belkin will sell you a new power supply it may run nearly that much to buy 
> it, including shipping and handling.  If you buy a replacement locally then 
> you can still use your old one as a bus powered hub (for light loads only.
> 
> -> If only I had a target closer than Kansas City (45 miles roughly). Walmart 
> USED to sell lots of computer stuff but after the remodel that section was 
> pretty much gutted. 

Office supply, something.

Sorry, I live on the edge of Silicon Valley so finding a store that sells 
computer stuff isn't too hard.

Clark Martin
Redwood City, CA, USA
Macintosh / Internet Consulting

"I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway"

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Re: Beating a dead horse? - Flashing "PC" video cards for a Power Mac

[Clark Martin]

On Dec 5, 2010, at 4:30 AM, Justin The Cynical wrote:


>> If the VRAM chips (there should be 4 of them on the fan side of the
>> card) are square it can probably be flashed, if they are rectangular
>> it cannot be flashed for a Mac. If it looks like it may be compatible
>> the info on themacelite website is still good.
> 
> Looking at the card I have handy, it's not BGA RAM, so by the wiki, it's
> not compatible.
> 
> I don't know if the incompatibility is because the ROM can't deal with
> the different RAM type or it's just speed, in which case there are tools
> to slow down the speed the ROM tells the card to use.
> 
> That's one of the questions that I can't seem to find an answer for.
> Any insight?


The type of RAM probably only indicates the version of the card.  The usual 
problem with flashing a card with Mac firmware is that the flash ROM isn't big 
enough to take the Mac firmware.  

Clark Martin
Redwood City, CA, USA
Macintosh / Internet Consulting

"I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway"

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PCMIA USB/FW card?

[John Carmonne]

I'm trying to find a PCMIA USB/FW combination card with a wall wart power 
supply for my Wally's. It seems to be a rare item.
All the ones I see on eBay state Windows but not Apple/Mac I have an HP model 
that's spotty at best as far as working at all.
I have a Belkin USB card that works and a Firewire card also, But I really 
would like a Combo USB/FW. Anyone know of one?


John Carmonne
Yorba Linda USA
Sent from my MBP




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WallStreet G3 DVD problem

[John Carmonne]

I'm not getting any joy here trying to get my Wally to play a flick. In "OS 
9.2.2" the DVD card mounts on the desktop and the DVD also mounts, but when I 
try to start "DVD Player" I get an error that says hardware can't be found and 
that I should reinstall DVD Player. Where do I find DVD player? I reinstalled 
OS 9.2.2 and the darn thing then said that my machine doesn't support DVD 
Player so I CCC'd the original system back. I"m wondering if the card maybe can 
go bad but still mount?


John Carmonne
Yorba Linda USA
Sent from my MBP




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Optical drive interface speeds

[John Carmonne]

Is there any advantage to a USB/FW400/FW800 and eSATA on an enclosure with an 
optical drive in it. Can the drive run as fast or faster than USB?


John Carmonne
Yorba Linda USA
Sent from my MBP




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Re: USB Question

[Stephen Conrad]

On Sun, Dec 5, 2010 at 1:59 PM, Clark Martin  wrote:

>
> "Card"?  Do you mean the hub?
>

-> Nope, the card that the AC Adaptor came attached to.

>
> The hub will require 2.1 to 2.5A.  Each port needs to be able to supply .5
> A and the hub itself needs some.
>
>
>> You are probably better off just going out and buying a new hub.  The
>> latest hubs I've bought were Belkin 4 port at the local Target store for
>> $15-$20.  IF Belkin will sell you a new power supply it may run nearly that
>> much to buy it, including shipping and handling.  If you buy a replacement
>> locally then you can still use your old one as a bus powered hub (for light
>> loads only.
>
>
> -> If only I had a target closer than Kansas City (45 miles roughly).
> Walmart USED to sell lots of computer stuff but after the remodel that
> section was pretty much gutted.
>
>>
> Office supply, something.
>
> Sorry, I live on the edge of Silicon Valley so finding a store that sells
> computer stuff isn't too hard.
>

-> There is an Office-something (I forget if it is Depot or Max) on Hwy 7 in
Blue Springs. I can check there next time I am in town. However, last time I
was there the sales drone was somewhat less than professional (I asked a
simple question and he acted like I was asking him to sacrifice a baby)


-- 
Steve Conrad
Henrietta, MO 64036

"The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle behind; to go
forth and claim our place in outer space."
   - Capt. Henry Gloval


(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
Help Bunny Take Over The World!

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Re: USB Question

[Charles Lenington]

On 12/5/10 7:44 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:

On Sun, Dec 5, 2010 at 1:59 PM, Clark Martin mailto:cm...@sonic.net>> wrote:


"Card"?  Do you mean the hub?


-> Nope, the card that the AC Adaptor came attached to.





you might try thrift stores, etc.

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Re: Beating a dead horse? - Flashing "PC" video cards for a Power Mac

[Justin The Cynical]

On 12/5/10 12:03 PM, Clark Martin wrote:

> The type of RAM probably only indicates the version of the card.  The usual 
> problem with flashing a card with Mac firmware is that the flash ROM isn't 
> big enough to take the Mac firmware.  

To which I have seen reduced ROM's as the 'solution' to this, which
sometimes works, sometimes not.   Right now, the best idea seems to be
looking at what is left of the wiki's and info from the various sites
and see if I can get lucky and find one of the confirmed working cards
on ebay or some place similar.

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