Re: [h-cost] Dress Form Class: was williamsburg suit

2006-02-05 Thread Tania Gruning
One of the problems with the papertape and ducttape forms is that they are not 
really corrected after being made. Standing up for 2 hours or so, getting glued 
up with automatically make you slouch, so what you get is a dressform with a 
bad posture ;-)
   
  The teacher is using some special strong paper and glue to get the form, then 
the form is cut up and corrected to your normal bodyshape, a thin layer of 
padding is put on, and a fabric cover is made. What you get is an exact copy of 
yourself, minus the slouching.
  Oh, those 3000 danish kr is a long weekend course Friday noon to Monday night 
with overnight stay and food.
  Tania

WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Clearly I won't be able to make the class, but I am interested, if you 
have a little information, about what materials will be used and what 
the process is.
I wonder if it isn't like the kits you can buy over here with a video...

Sg

Tania Gruning wrote:

Hi Bjarne.
 My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite 
 expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The course 
 itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My mother has 
 one and it is wonderful.
 
 Tania
 


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Re: [h-cost] Oseberg textiles

2006-02-05 Thread Caroline
I know vol 4 was never published.  If it is going to be published only Oslo
University would know.  I recently got some unpublished text from Perth (I
still had to pay - and I cannot publish it) on medieval textiles excavated
in the  80's.

The text for Osbergfundet 4 may also be available in this form.  Write to
them and ask.

On 05/02/06, Judy Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Caroline wrote:
  As volume 5 was published in 1919 - I doubt anyone is alive who had any
 hand
  in volume 4.  I would sugest contacting Oldsaksamling University, Oslo
 to
  see if there is any manscript survives.
 
 
 ah but volumes 1-3  5 were published as you said, but volume 4
 was
 never published! there's been that rumour that it's coming out for quite
 a while - not a clue on reality though.

 -Judy Mitchell
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Caroline
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Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image

2006-02-05 Thread Lloyd Mitchell
Here's a wild guess.
The answer might  be cued from the piece of paper in his hand.  Since the
rest of the people in the scene seem to be laborers, the man in the robe
could be what we might now call a foreman of some sort.  The part of the
garment that has the effect of a yoke appears to me to be separate add-on.
There seem to be no gather as we see in later images of the robes that
became academic or judicial garb of honor.

Kathleen

- Original Message - 
From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image


 Kimiko Small wrote:

  http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
 
 
  It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the
  upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the
  shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
  positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
 


 It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
 clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
 yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
 is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.

 Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's


 Dawn


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query

2006-02-05 Thread Lloyd Mitchell
Wouldn't that be too flimsy?  Seems to me that the weight of any garment
would crush the extension.  I have read somewhere (Godey's) that piano wire
was one of the reliable wires for making these cages.  I have at least three
crins of this period and the wire in them is not quite tubular (think
'linguini and not speggitti).It is flexable but is not bent easily. The
originals were fiber cased. One I use for contemporary use ad shed most of
this covering in it's long history.  I recovered it with white florist tape.
This allows it to move freely in its traces and retards the rusting of the
steel. Another one has had the vertical tapes replaced with drapery
header.  I found one that was the width of the original and had the neat
tracers that accommodated the wire exactly.
Kathleen
- Original Message - 
From: Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 2:00 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings
query


 I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in
measuring
 tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the
manufacturer.

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
 Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query


 I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.

 I've never managed to find the watch spring that the originals were made
 from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
 (though if
 anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)

 Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
 it
 in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the
verticals,

 and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
 and
 the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached
it
 using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
 was
 for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
 dragged around a muddy field).

 Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many
things
 on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I
 never seem to find the time for :-(

 Debs




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Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query

2006-02-05 Thread Katy Bishop
Farthingale's has crin steel a Thread Covered Hoop Steel, I've
never tried it but it looks much like what is in original cage hoops,
don't know about the weight/stiffness.  I've wanted to try it for a
cage hoop or bustle if my budget ever allows.

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php

Text from their website:

Hoop Steel/Crin Steel/Tutu Steel

We have several weights of hoop steel and you will likely be able to
find one to suit your purpose. One style is thread covered, it can
be bent but not easily, comes in 3 widths and two colours; the
narrowest is known as tutu steel as it is used in tutus for partner
work. The second type of steel is plastic coated and this comes in
varying widths and weights. Both require tin snips to cut.

Greengerg and Hammer sells bons casing to fit 1/4 and 1/2 inch bones,
this could alaso be used to construct a cage hoop or bustle.  And it's
cotton.  I also use this for corset bone casings.

http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=1340

Katy

On 2/5/06, Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in measuring
 tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the manufacturer.

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
 Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query


 I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.

 I've never managed to find the watch spring that the originals were made
 from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
 (though if
 anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)

 Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
 it
 in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,

 and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
 and
 the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it
 using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
 was
 for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
 dragged around a muddy field).

 Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things
 on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I
 never seem to find the time for :-(

 Debs




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[EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image

2006-02-05 Thread ruthanneb
It looks to me like an add-on, too--an applied exaggerated collar (fur?), most 
likely, considering how well it fits the neck edge of the gown. (Those points 
would have been the envy of Carnaby Street back in the 'Sixties!) It doesn't 
look like a turn-back of the gown's natural edge.
I initially thought of a separate mini-surplice-like thing, but how it would 
maintain its shape and also line up along the neck edge I don't know.
I know nothing of this illustrator--did he reliably work from original 
illustrations such as paintings and illuminations, or was he one of the 
nineteenth-century fact-plus-imagination types?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Lloyd Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 5, 2006 8:16 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image

Here's a wild guess.
The answer might  be cued from the piece of paper in his hand.  Since the
rest of the people in the scene seem to be laborers, the man in the robe
could be what we might now call a foreman of some sort.  The part of the
garment that has the effect of a yoke appears to me to be separate add-on.
There seem to be no gather as we see in later images of the robes that
became academic or judicial garb of honor.

Kathleen

- Original Message - 
From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image


 Kimiko Small wrote:

  http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
 
 
  It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the
  upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the
  shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
  positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
 


 It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
 clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
 yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
 is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.

 Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's


 Dawn


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query

2006-02-05 Thread Carol Kocian
I have at least three crins of this period and the wire in them is 
not quite tubular (think 'linguini and not speggitti).It is flexable 
but is not bent easily. The originals were fiber cased.


 Needle  Thread in Gettysburg, PA (USA) carries this hooping. 
At least they did some years back when I got it.  They have patterns, 
fabric and supplies for historic reenactors.


 -Carol
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Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear

2006-02-05 Thread Helen Pinto

angela wrote:


Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
feel,


If what you're looking for is US military uniforms, do an image search at 
www.altavista.com  on bonus march, which was in 1932, and 1930's + strikes 
and you will get plenty of images of army uniforms.
 -Helen/Aidan 


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Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear

2006-02-05 Thread Helen Pinto
I should have paid more attention to the title, but the search on 1930's 
strikes should also get you pictures of steel and auto workers.
 -Helen/Aidan 


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[h-cost] Re: posture and cut, was williamsburg suit

2006-02-05 Thread Kahlara
I have been watching this topic with interest. Just my uneducated opinion, but 
I think there are a number of factors at play here.
   
  We are healthier and better fed than our ancestors so yes, our bodies are 
'modern' and in many cases lager scaled, but life style has a great deal to do 
with it as well.
   
  For the most part we are trying to reproduce fashions of the middle and upper 
classes, whose lifestyle was considerably different than the working man. If 
burly shoulders were an indication of a man that had to labor to eke out a 
living, then I can see where the fashion would be towards making the silhouette 
as narrow as possible to indicate that a person did not have to labor for his 
living. These days a more muscular appearance seems to be favored through all 
social strata.
   
  Young men from prosperous families in previous eras engaged in 'leisure 
activities' that required an upright back straight, shoulders up and square 
posture such as horseback riding, fencing, shooting, etc. And young women 
similarly - I defy anyone to slouch and play the piano well for example.
   
  By comparison, many modern day people drive to work, sit at computers, and 
for entertainment watch television. Those striving for fitness often work out a 
gym or health spa which gives a different body structure again than someone 
whole engages in physical labor for a living.
   
  And, as has been mentioned already, posture was an indicator of social status.
   
  Also, modern medical science and chiropractic support a more natural posture, 
advocating allowing for the natural curvature of the spine. To me this looks 
like slouching btw, but it does open the shoulders wider. Just for an 
experiement and out of curiosity - I had my shoulder width measured while 
sitting up square and straight and then when slouching - there was a 5 
difference in the width of my shoulder measurement!
   
  There are still a wide variety of body types out there. For example, I have a 
friend who would probably need very little alteration or scaling up for that 
matter to be fitted well.
   
  Lastly, if the stereotype for physical appearance/stature being related to 
country or geographical area of origin has any basis in fact, would not the 
clothing made for an 18th cent. Frenchman, (who were supposedly shorter and 
smaller in stature), be a bit tight for an 18th cent. contemporary from a 
different geographical origin?
   
  JMHO
   
  Annette M 
  
 
  Message: 4
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 20:13:25 +
From: Jean Waddie 
Subject: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit

The cut of clothes seems to be still moving (not surprising really..) I 
would say my husband and I both have pretty good posture, and recently 
we have both found that shirts or blouses from Next are too narrow 
across the front and too wide across the back. If we stand normally 
they strain at the buttons - if we slump our shoulders a little they fit 
better! Only from the one shop, so far, but Next must think this is the 
shape of the modern torso.

Are there any other periods when you find a wider back and narrower 
front? We know fashion is cyclical - waistlines go up and down, 
shoulders and hips go out and in - do shoulders go forward and back as 
well?

Jean



Kelly Grant wrote
It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but 
if you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the 
shoulders as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still 
have the 'look' you are trying to achieve.

I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he 
felt the same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get 
a good fit by scaling up historical garments, we are built differently.

The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of 
mine, is to practice the movements and excercises of the period. Mark 
taught Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the 
city. When I went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the 
shape of his body pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was 
exciting for both of us to see the way we move in different ways from 
our historical counterparts.

Good luck on the new draft!

Kelly in Nova Scotia



Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, 
faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers 
in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, 
despite your fears
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





From: Bjarne og Leif Drews 
Reply-To: Historical Costume 
To: 
Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100

Hi,
Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as 
much as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a 
dress stand of myself.
I cant stop thinking about all our words for 

[h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35

2006-02-05 Thread Kahlara
In my translation anyway it says...
   
  Clause 35. Let there be one measure.., and one width of cloth whether 
dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the selvedges.
   
  Dyed I understand.
   
  Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth.
   
  And does anyone know what halberjet is?
   
  These are the only definitions I got when I googled.
   
  Russet- a coarse, home-spun cloth much used by the peasantry. 
  Halberjet- probably a superior type of cloth.   
  Ell- a standard measure of length said to have been based on the length of 
the right arm of king Henry 1. 
   
  Annette M


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Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear

2006-02-05 Thread Land of Oz
Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
feel,


http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/fsowhome.html


photos from 1935-1945 in color and black and white, searchable to some 
degree.


Denise
Iowa 


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query

2006-02-05 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi,
Not that it is my period, and i dont want to interfer your disgussion, but i 
was thinking about the thin, narrow boning i used from Wissner for my red 
taffeta stays.
This is only 4 mm. wide. Would that be something you could use for a 
crinoline cage? You would have to make many hoops for this, but it surely 
would give it flexibility.


Bjarne
- Original Message - 
From: Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings 
query




Farthingale's has crin steel a Thread Covered Hoop Steel, I've
never tried it but it looks much like what is in original cage hoops,
don't know about the weight/stiffness.  I've wanted to try it for a
cage hoop or bustle if my budget ever allows.

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php

Text from their website:

Hoop Steel/Crin Steel/Tutu Steel

We have several weights of hoop steel and you will likely be able to
find one to suit your purpose. One style is thread covered, it can
be bent but not easily, comes in 3 widths and two colours; the
narrowest is known as tutu steel as it is used in tutus for partner
work. The second type of steel is plastic coated and this comes in
varying widths and weights. Both require tin snips to cut.

Greengerg and Hammer sells bons casing to fit 1/4 and 1/2 inch bones,
this could alaso be used to construct a cage hoop or bustle.  And it's
cotton.  I also use this for corset bone casings.

http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=1340

Katy

On 2/5/06, Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in 
measuring
tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the 
manufacturer.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query


I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.

I've never managed to find the watch spring that the originals were 
made

from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
(though if
anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)

Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and 
encased

it
in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the 
verticals,


and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
and
the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached 
it
using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing 
(it

was
for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
dragged around a muddy field).

Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many 
things
on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that 
I

never seem to find the time for :-(

Debs




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--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com
Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35

2006-02-05 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 17:08 05/02/2006, you wrote:

In my translation anyway it says...

  Clause 35. Let there be one measure.., and one width of cloth 
whether dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the selvedges.


  Dyed I understand.

  Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth.

  And does anyone know what halberjet is?

  These are the only definitions I got when I googled.

  Russet- a coarse, home-spun cloth much used by the peasantry.


And for livery in Tudor times


  Halberjet- probably a superior type of cloth.


Sorry, this one passes me by.

  Ell- a standard measure of length said to have been based on the 
length of the right arm of king Henry 1.


An ell is (AFAIK) a yard and a quarter, that is 45. (I think there 
is something in Shakespeare about it, possibly in Comedy of Errors, 
but memory fades with my hair)! (2 ells = 90 - that's a very wide 
width of cloth?)


  Annette M







Suzi



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Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query

2006-02-05 Thread aquazoo
 i was thinking about the thin, narrow boning i used from Wissner for my
 red taffeta stays.  This is only 4 mm. wide. Would that be something you
 could use for a crinoline cage? You would have to make many hoops
 for this, but it surely would give it flexibility.

 I think Wissner does make a product of a weight that is good for
hoops.  It's thicker than the corset weight.

 -Carol

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query

2006-02-05 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 19:03 05/02/2006, you wrote:

 i was thinking about the thin, narrow boning i used from Wissner for my
 red taffeta stays.  This is only 4 mm. wide. Would that be something you
 could use for a crinoline cage? You would have to make many hoops
 for this, but it surely would give it flexibility.

 I think Wissner does make a product of a weight that is good for
hoops.  It's thicker than the corset weight.

 -Carol



The crinoline steel I use is like the stuff they sell at 
Farthingales, and is specifically made for hoops. The cotton covered 
sort, (we have three widths and I use the medium width) will take 
heavy petticoats and skirts and is flexible without collapsing, and 
does not de-form even when you pack it tightly in a suitcase (for 
using in lectures.)


Maybe I've missed the point here, but if the covered steel is what 
was used, on some crinolines, originally, is there any reason to look 
for anything else? I have photos, as I am sure so do other people, of 
cotton covered crinolines in museums, which is why I use that. If you 
use bare steel, you cannot get the original 19th century connectors, 
unless you have them made specially, so it would be a problem to copy 
exactly anyway.


Suzi (rather puzzled)


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[h-cost] Re: hoop steel...

2006-02-05 Thread cahuff

At 7:57 AM -0700 2/5/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I've never managed to find the watch spring that the originals were made
from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
(though if
anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)

Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
it
in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,


Hi
We got some stuff that acted like the old caged hoop I have in an 
airplane/RC hobbiest shop. It was a short (3') length--but was spring 
steel. My DH needed to make a new spring for and old box camera. The 
stuff came in a variety of gauges. I bet you could get it in longer 
lengths from the mill.

Ta
Carol
--
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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[h-cost] Re: Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query

2006-02-05 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I haven't been following this thread, but this sounds very similar to what 
is known as fish tape used by electricians to fish (pull) a wire 
through a conduit (tubing). These are rolls of spring wire (flat with 
rounded edges) that come in a case with reel in 5'0', 100'  200' lengths. 
Lightweight 50' rolls available quite inexpensively from tool places like 
Harbor Freight. The heavier professional ones are more expensive. They 
occasionally break under the load than an electrician puts on them.. you 
might find a friendly electrician who'll give you one that has (how I got 
mine).


Beth


Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 23:00:19 -0800
From: Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
casings query
I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in measuring
tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the manufacturer.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.

I've never managed to find the watch spring that the originals were made
from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
(though if
anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)

Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
it
in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,

and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
and
the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it
using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
was
for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
dragged around a muddy field).

Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things
on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I
never seem to find the time for :-(

Debs


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[h-cost] Archaeological citation

2006-02-05 Thread Susan Carroll-Clark
Greetings--

I'm working on a group research project with several
other folks, and we're trying to track down a more
in-depth citation for some information.

It's from the following book:
Weinstein, Rosemary.  Tudor London.  London:  Museum
of London, 1994
ISBN:  0-11-290495-5

The book says this find came from a swampy area in
London--Moorfield, just north of the city wall.

The find consisted of:
a leather ankle boot
child's choe
knitted woollen cap
silk smocking on a woollen cloth (looks like a sleeve
to me)
coarse woollen sleeve
child's sock
c. 1530-90

The book doesn't cite any publication info for the
find.  Anyone got any ideas where we might find it?

Susan

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and

2006-02-05 Thread katherine sanders
Thanks for all the help - 

Suzi - thanks for the link to your site: that
crinoline is certainly the shape and style I am going
for and if you've not had any quibbles from museums,
there's no reason why I should from general M.o.t.Ps

Deb, 
I didn't see your reply before it was included in a
message so my digest is still skipping but yes, I
think I'll go with Suzi's suggestion initially. I
found some 'roman blind' tape which would do the job
so I just need to check it will take the width of
steel - I may order narrower steel so it can be
enclosed in a tape (at least that way the ends will
look neater).  I found some rather coarse red twill
tape which looks like a narrow version of the stuff
used on this crinoline
http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11182-popup.html

The measuring tape steel is (over here in the UK) too
wide and does that weird and painful crinkling thing
when I try and measure stuff... not sure I want it
near my legs, drawers or not! I think the piano cables
are about the right size but I'll have to talk to a
friend who owns one first.

Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
as close as they need to be to be sure.
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php

I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)

Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo
when it's done!

Yours gratefully,
Katherine



A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright



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[h-cost] h-cost digest 107

2006-02-05 Thread katherine sanders
Hello! Could someone please send me the digest 107? I
can't find it in my in-box and Im worried I missed a
message for me.
Ta very much!

Katherine


A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright



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Re: [h-cost] h-cost digest 107

2006-02-05 Thread Robin Netherton
On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, katherine sanders wrote:

 Hello! Could someone please send me the digest 107? I
 can't find it in my in-box and Im worried I missed a
 message for me.

Try checking recent messages at these sites:

http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/maillist.html

http://news.gmane.org/gmane.culture.studies.history.costume

--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and

2006-02-05 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 21:23 05/02/2006, you wrote:

Thanks for all the help -

Suzi - thanks for the link to your site: that
crinoline is certainly the shape and style I am going
for and if you've not had any quibbles from museums,
there's no reason why I should from general M.o.t.Ps


Katherine

Talk to the people at the address I gave you - you will find they do 
different widths of crinoline steel, and strong twill tape. (E-mail 
me for my phone number and I can talk you through it if you want - I 
make hoops of all shapes and sizes all the time.)




Deb,
I didn't see your reply before it was included in a
message so my digest is still skipping but yes, I
think I'll go with Suzi's suggestion initially. I
found some 'roman blind' tape which would do the job
so I just need to check it will take the width of
steel - I may order narrower steel so it can be
enclosed in a tape (at least that way the ends will
look neater).  I found some rather coarse red twill
tape which looks like a narrow version of the stuff
used on this crinoline
http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11182-popup.html

The measuring tape steel is (over here in the UK) too
wide and does that weird and painful crinkling thing
when I try and measure stuff... not sure I want it
near my legs, drawers or not! I think the piano cables
are about the right size but I'll have to talk to a
friend who owns one first.

Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
as close as they need to be to be sure.
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php

I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)

Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo
when it's done!

Yours gratefully,
Katherine



A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright



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Re: [h-cost] Archaeological citation

2006-02-05 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 21:21 05/02/2006, you wrote:

Greetings--

I'm working on a group research project with several
other folks, and we're trying to track down a more
in-depth citation for some information.

It's from the following book:
Weinstein, Rosemary.  Tudor London.  London:  Museum
of London, 1994
ISBN:  0-11-290495-5

The book says this find came from a swampy area in
London--Moorfield, just north of the city wall.

The find consisted of:
a leather ankle boot
child's choe
knitted woollen cap
silk smocking on a woollen cloth (looks like a sleeve
to me)
coarse woollen sleeve
child's sock
c. 1530-90

The book doesn't cite any publication info for the
find.  Anyone got any ideas where we might find it?



I suggest you contact the Museum itself

Department of Early London History and Collections
Museum of London
150 London Wall
London. EC2Y 5HN
Tel: 020 7814 5732
Fax: 020 7600 1058

www.museumoflondon.org.uk

Suzi



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Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown

2006-02-05 Thread Kelly Grant


What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the same 
sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week!

Kelly


Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears

Caius Merlyn Britannicus






From: Cabbage Rose Costumes [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800

Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period.  (It's 
actually the future, I believe).


I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought perhaps 
someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time for my 
inspiration.


As always, thanks in advance.

angela
+
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech...
W. Shakespeare


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query

2006-02-05 Thread Ann Catelli


--- Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Farthingale's has crin steel a Thread Covered
 Hoop Steel, I've
 never tried it but it looks much like what is in
 original cage hoops,
 don't know about the weight/stiffness.  I've wanted
 to try it for a
 cage hoop or bustle if my budget ever allows.
 
 http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
 --
 Katy Bishop

You will certainly get good service if/when you do
order from her, even with the border crossing to cause
problems.  She is also fascinated by what creations
her clients come up with.

Ann in CT

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[h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat

2006-02-05 Thread Wanda Pease
I'm going to try and make a Tudor Style tall hat with the pleated crown.  I
went to the local GoodWill and they had a hat that fitted perfectly of 100%
wool felt. Problem is that it is a domed crown rather than square.  Is there
a way to steam that crown and get it fairly fat?

I intend to play with an thick interlining that I have to get the brim
shape, then I'll cut the actual hat brim.

Does this sound reasonable, or does it sound like it will be more work than
simply creating the under-structure out the interfacing and paper and going
from there?


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness


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RE: [h-cost] pants

2006-02-05 Thread Wanda Pease
Pants... You mean bloomers like they might have worn bicycling or underwear
type pants?

Wanda

 -Orig


 Does anybody have a pattern for 19th century women's pants? Thanks




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