Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos

2006-04-13 Thread Carolyn Kayta Barrows



Of course, there would still be art interpretation issues,
much as there are for miniatures (e.g., was this color chosen for its
symbolism?  or because it was an easily available paint pigment? or because
people actually wore it?)


There's always a difference between dyestuff, for fabric, and paint 
pigment.  And what's good for one isn't necessarily good for the other.



   CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
 www.FunStuft.com

 ///\
-@@\\\
      7 )))
)((   ))(
 * )   ( *
  /\   /---\

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


[h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?

2006-04-13 Thread Ailith Mackintosh

I found the link in a friend's blog - fabric made from corn. Really!

http://msnbc.msn.com/id/12225701/site/newsweek/

Wonder how much it truly costs...

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?

2006-04-13 Thread Carolyn Kayta Barrows



I found the link in a friend's blog - fabric made from corn. Really!


There are knitting yarns made of this already, and yarns made of milk.  In, 
I believe, the 1880s, the new fiber was one made of wood (Rayon).



   CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
 www.FunStuft.com

 ///\
-@@\\\
      7 )))
)((   ))(
 * )   ( *
  /\   /---\

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Re. leather and stays

2006-04-13 Thread Tania Gruning
I would not use those for binding corsets. I do bookbinding as a hobby and 
those skins are vegetable tanned and very stiff and non stretchy as that is the 
qualities useful in bookbinding. I believe washing skins are alumtanned or 
something like that. At least they are much softer and pliable that bookbinding 
skins
   
  Tania

E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  By the way, I've seen kidskin for sale as a bookbinding supply--in fact, at 
the moment there's some up for sale on ebay:
http://stores.ebay.com/LEATHER-OUTLET
(click on kid skins under the store categories on the left)
It's about the same cost as buying a similar amount of chamois.

-E House 

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



-
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ 
countries) for 2¢/min or less.

-
Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min 
with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?

2006-04-13 Thread WickedFrau
Milk???  Hmmm, now I have heard of textiles made from the cellulose in 
soy, but milk?  I can't remember right now which product, but either 
Silk soy milk, or Vitasoy has a little history of all the textile 
stuff that Henry Ford tried to use soy for.  Some of my spinner friends 
don't particularly like spinning with soy silk, but then I suppose it is 
all what you get used to and what you have access to. 


Funny, when I tried to google on soy silk, I got this:
Soy Silk and Ingeo Corn Fiber 
http://www.earthguild.com/products/spinning/spsoycor.htm Soy Silk is 
made of left-overs from the tofu manufacturing process. ... Blending 75% 
Soy Silk with 25% fine wool adds memory and bounce while maintaining 
...www.earthguild.com/products/spinning/spsoycor.htm - 4k -


But when I clicked on it, I couldn't find anything else about the 
Inego.I wonder how long it has been around?   Bummer that it can 
melt when it gets ironed...I wonder how bad it isthanks for sharing!


Sg


Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:




I found the link in a friend's blog - fabric made from corn. Really!



There are knitting yarns made of this already, and yarns made of 
milk.  In, I believe, the 1880s, the new fiber was one made of wood 
(Rayon).




___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos

2006-04-13 Thread Melanie Schuessler

Susan B. Farmer wrote:
 
You can also see this line of trip just above the belt on some statues

from St. Loup de Naud.  This is a large scan (ca. 1 MB in size) so that
you can see the details quite nicely.

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/stLoupDeNaud_LeftPortal-detai2l.jpg


This is very interesting--where is St. Loup de Naud, and is it known 
when the statuary was done?


Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos

2006-04-13 Thread Robin Netherton

On Thu, 13 Apr 2006, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

 Susan B. Farmer wrote:
   
  You can also see this line of trip just above the belt on some statues
  from St. Loup de Naud.  This is a large scan (ca. 1 MB in size) so that
  you can see the details quite nicely.
  
  http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/stLoupDeNaud_LeftPortal-detai2l.jpg
 
 This is very interesting--where is St. Loup de Naud, and is it known 
 when the statuary was done?

It's by Provins -- e.g. not far from Paris or Chartres. The portals are
12th c. See
http://perso.magic.fr/relet/StLoup/Saint_Loup_de_Naud/Saint_Loup_de_Naud.htm
for some discussion of the portals
For the French-impaired, that's
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=ensl=fru=http://perso.magic.fr/relet/StLoup/Saint_Loup_de_Naud/Saint_Loup_de_Naud.htmprev=/search%3Fq%3DLoup%2Bde%2BNaud%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26client%3Dgooglet
but as usual this is a little cockeyed! First time I've seen Moyen Age
(Middle Ages) translated as the Average Age ;-)

The page says that the portal is not precisely dateable, but probably is
around 1160, when the church received a major relic.

The female figure is probably the Queen of Sheba (biblical, royal,
foreign). There's a Queen of Sheba image in some costume books -- I think
it's in Payne, among others, or maybe it was Davenport? -- but I don't
know if it's the same one.

--Robin


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


[h-cost] Arrowhead Reinforcement?

2006-04-13 Thread Cynthia Schrage
Dear All,

Long time, no write. Sorry.

I'm looking for information on how to make something I
think is called Arrowhead Reinforcement. It's a
finishing technique where the top of a slit (usually
on shirt tails, I think) is reinforced at the end by a
hand stitched arrowhead style design. 

Does anyone have information on how to make these?

Thanks a bunch,
Cynthia

__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


[h-cost] Portugal clothing in the 15th century

2006-04-13 Thread Dawn
I've been asked to help find sources for  costumes for a school play... 
I believe they are doing the Columbus story. My information on Portugese 
clothing of that time is very thin... would it be safe to use Spanish 
sources? English?




Dawn


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] kid leather binding stays

2006-04-13 Thread aquazoo
 I doubt you would need a leather needle to sew Kid, but you might get one
 just in casefor the machine I mean. And since it stretches a bit, if
 you have a walking foot...one with feed dogs to move the fabric on top
 as well as underneath, you might find that helpful. This assuming you're
 doing it by machine.
 If you plan to bind it by handnever mind...

 There is that small matter of the boning...

 I did do a binding on lightly boned stays by machine - stitch for two
inches, skip the 1/4 inch over the bone, stitch another 2...  then I
went back and hand-stitched where the bones were.

 The idea, of course, is to enclose the end of the bone in leather,
otherwise it will wear and poke through just below the leather.

 I suppose with light plastic boning you can sew right through it, but
the Wissner is a harder plastic.  I'm not sure you could put a needle
through it without breaking the plastic, even if you have an
industrial machine that could sew through it!

 By the way, some original stays have a single stitch through each
bone (whalebone) about an inch from the top and an inch from the
bottom to anchor it in the channel and keep it from sliding.

 -Carol

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


[h-cost] Subject heading was: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 332

2006-04-13 Thread otsisto
Those with digest please try to put something in the subject heading so that
those of us who glean through will know ahead of time what subject you are
commenting on or if it is a new topic.

Thank you,
De


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] kid leather binding stays

2006-04-13 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi Carol.
Thanks for your informations. I didnt know that some bones were anchored to 
the channels.
Wiessner boning is hard plastic, but you actually can sew trough it with a 
strong sewing needle on the machine.
But i plan to bind all the edges by hand, i also sewed all the sections 
together by hand. I cant do it on a machine, because i use bones in all the 
channels of the tabs, and it s very difficult to control the sewingmachine 
on top of the bones.
Its a comission and i think i just want to bind the edges with ivory silk 
taffeta i have. I dont have the time to find kid, and i think i would have 
to praktise a lot with it before i use it on a pair of stays.

But thanks all for helping  me with the questions i had about kid skin.

Bjarne

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather  binding stays



I doubt you would need a leather needle to sew Kid, but you might get one
just in casefor the machine I mean. And since it stretches a bit, if
you have a walking foot...one with feed dogs to move the fabric on top
as well as underneath, you might find that helpful. This assuming you're
doing it by machine.
If you plan to bind it by handnever mind...


There is that small matter of the boning...

I did do a binding on lightly boned stays by machine - stitch for two
inches, skip the 1/4 inch over the bone, stitch another 2...  then I
went back and hand-stitched where the bones were.

The idea, of course, is to enclose the end of the bone in leather,
otherwise it will wear and poke through just below the leather.

I suppose with light plastic boning you can sew right through it, but
the Wissner is a harder plastic.  I'm not sure you could put a needle
through it without breaking the plastic, even if you have an
industrial machine that could sew through it!

By the way, some original stays have a single stitch through each
bone (whalebone) about an inch from the top and an inch from the
bottom to anchor it in the channel and keep it from sliding.

-Carol

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje

2006-04-13 Thread E House
Wow, they have some really interesting 18thC stuff that I've never seen 
before!


By the way, there's an English version of the site--on the front page, near 
the middle, you'll see a link that says 'Welcome' which will lead you to it. 
Also, you have to go to Gallery under Collections before you can get to the 
indumentaria histórica/ historical dress section, and you may want to go 
straight to the catalog section (under Collections) where you can search for 
images.  Unfortunately, there's no English version of the search engine.


-E House USED to be a fluent Spanish-speaker... 


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje

2006-04-13 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Ahh,
Would someone please send the URL again?
Clumsy Bjarne who delited it!

Bjarne


- Original Message - 
From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje


Wow, they have some really interesting 18thC stuff that I've never seen 
before!


By the way, there's an English version of the site--on the front page, 
near the middle, you'll see a link that says 'Welcome' which will lead you 
to it. Also, you have to go to Gallery under Collections before you can 
get to the indumentaria histórica/ historical dress section, and you may 
want to go straight to the catalog section (under Collections) where you 
can search for images.  Unfortunately, there's no English version of the 
search engine.


-E House USED to be a fluent Spanish-speaker...
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] kid leather binding stays

2006-04-13 Thread LuAnn Mason
Bjarne, this place is local for me, but they mail order.  They have a nice 
supply of kid leather in their bridal/specialty department.  It's reasonable as 
well:

Mill End Retail Fabric Store
(503) 786-1234
9701 SE McLoughlin Blvd
Portland, OR 97222

www.millendstore.comhttp://www.millendstore.com/


HTH--

LuAnn in Washington


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje

2006-04-13 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 4/13/2006 3:40:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Wow,  they have some really interesting 18thC 


***
 
Yes, that beautiful embroidered 1740 woman's jacket! And the very BLUE  man's 
suit from the 1760s.
 
And the woman's jerkin is really beautiful [ like cinbarnes said]
 
What fun! Let's all go!
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje

2006-04-13 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 4/13/2006 2:00:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

museodeltraje.mcu.es



*
 
 
there ya go, Bjarne.
 
BTWcheck out the wonderful stuff under Popular Costume [Indumentaria  
popular]
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] 16th century men query

2006-04-13 Thread Sharon at Collierfam.com
The new book, The Tudor Tailor has a line drawing of almost exactly what
you want, on page 63. You would just have to make the hanging sleeves.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 9:32 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 16th century men query



O.K. I give up! I have searched all the usual suspects, Arnold, 
Mikhaila, Waugh, Tudor Images, Costume in the Western World, 
Davenport, Ashelford etc., the costume books edited by James Laver, a 
beautiful Czech book I have and so on. I cannot find an image of a 
gentleman in breeches and skirted doublet for about 1560-80.

It is for my husband to wear to an SCA event we have been invited to 
in the summer. I have all the garb for me for gentry, and my husband 
has a pair of wool breeches and  a pair of slightly non-authentic 
boots that will have to do. However, as he is only going to be 
wearing this doublet once, and i am totally tight for time, I need 
something simple and thought that a plain but rich wool skirted 
doublet would be ideal. He has his own peascod belly so won't need 
padding, but the only images I can find are of upper class servants, 
or peasants, and my husband would not have been a peasant!! 
(Me?  marry a peasant? - bah!)

I may have to go with what I want rather than what is strictly 
authentic, but any advice or images would be most welcome.

Suzi

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://vassun.vassar.edu/~jasaeger/
img/maps/hoefnagel_1024x-2g.jpegimgrefurl=http://vassun.vassar.edu/~jasaege
r/img/maps/london-a.htmlh=768w=973sz=166tbnid=5x31pXSylFzxVM:tbnh=116t
bnw=148hl=enstart=14prev=/images%3Fq%3DHoefnagel%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%2
6lr%3D%26sa%3DG

The young man on the left is wearing the kind of doublet I mean. 
(Sorry I don't know how to compress the url.) 
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] 16th century men query

2006-04-13 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 4/13/2006 9:07:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The new  book, The Tudor Tailor has a line drawing of almost exactly what
you  want, on page 63. You would just have to make the hanging  sleeves.



**
I don't see any breeches on page 63.
 
I thought her dilemma was she cannot find a pictorial reference to a  doublet 
with long skirts worn with breechesby which I think she means  
Venetians. There is a rendering of a man in a skirted doublet [one looks like a 
 
jerkin] with paned hosen that come to just above the knee on pages 11, 15  and 
19.
The paintings these details are from are
 
The Fete at Bermondsey  by Joris Hoefnagel c1570 [page 11]
The Embarkation at Dover in the Royal Collection [page 15]
and
The Field of the Cloth of Gold, also in the Royal Collection [Page  19]
 
The whole paintings [I think] are on the Contents pagebut get your  
magnifying glass out.
 
But that's the problem isn't it? Most renderings of a doublet with  Venetians 
are of the later short doublet with tassets.
 
And again, these men all appear to be servants of some kind holding arms or  
something. But some are just dancing or socializing so you cannot really  tell.
 
 
 
 
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?

2006-04-13 Thread Lalah
Corn - the new peanut.  Sounds like they are trying to make corn into 
everything from clothes to gas.
However, thin, not stretcy fabric sounds good and the dress in the picture 
looks floaty enough for anyone.  Hope they don't use all the corn up - I like 
eating it.
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender



_
Netscape.  Just the Net You Need.
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Portugal clothing in the 15th century

2006-04-13 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi Dawn,
I think that a little later, portugal was ruled by a spanish king, so i 
would guess they not only are very close together regionally, but also 
fashionable.


Bjarne


- Original Message - 
From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Portugal clothing in the 15th century


I've been asked to help find sources for  costumes for a school play... I 
believe they are doing the Columbus story. My information on Portugese 
clothing of that time is very thin... would it be safe to use Spanish 
sources? English?




Dawn


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] kid leather binding stays

2006-04-13 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi Carol,
Yes i know it would be best with cotton or linnen, but really for reenacting 
will it really be worned this much?


Bjarne

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather  binding stays




Glad I could help!  I've seen the Wissner in a thicker weight
(probably for hoops rather than boning) which I can't imagine sewing
through.  If the standard weight can be sewn, all the better!

I would suggest a nice cotton or linen tape for binding rather than
silk.  Silk has poor abrasion resistance, and the edges of stays will
get a lot of wear.

-Carol

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] Portugal clothing in the 15th century

2006-04-13 Thread otsisto
During the 1500s I do believe that Portugal and Spain did not get along with
each other. Said to be like siblings trying to one up the other.
Then in 1580, Philip of Spain invaded and conquered Portugal. It was not
many years after this that you get the Jewish exodus from Spain and
Portugal. I think sometime after Holland became free of the Spanish rule as
many of the refugees went there.
I was told by someone who has research the 1500s Spain and Portugal but not
the 1400s said that the fashions were similar but there were differences.
Probably not much help but maybe something.
De


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


[h-cost] Naming kids

2006-04-13 Thread stilskin
 
 I think the identity problem is with 

Yes, the problem we will always have here is different names used by 
manufacturers and across national borders.

Here on the correct side of the Pacific, for instance, a bang, cotton, and a 
fringe have different meanings than are usual in North America.

When I go to the dealers to buy kid (leather, not half-built people) I expect a 
thinner, soft leather with a little bit of stretch to it. A skin will be around 
6 square feet in size and come from a young goat. One side is shiney in the 
traditional leather look, the reverse is more fibrous like suede. Colours can 
be standards like brown and black through to outrageous hot ones, all depending 
upon what has been done at the tannery. If you get lucky enough, you will find 
some that has been printed or stamped with a pattern.

Chamois is another kind of kid skin to my thinking, sometimes used for binding 
of clothing, often for gloves and so forth, but most commonly used for cleaning 
gooey bits of kangaroo off the grill of the Ford Falcon. It was marketed 
as shammee for many years.

Unfortunately, these are available in synthetics now. Fake chamois can be 
bought for cleaning purposes, it is somewhere between a loosely woven soft 
cloth and felt. Upholsterers have been using fake leathers for some time now 
including very soft vinyl they claim to be as close as kid as you can get -- of 
course, they can never show a kid skin with criss-cross fibres just under the 
surface!

Yeah, I know, all this is boring for most but we are all gonna keep an eye on 
language differences or we will be like the five blind men trying to describe 
an elephant.

By the way, kangaroo? Did I say kangaroo? If you like kid you will love 
kangaroo hide!

-C.



This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


[h-cost] OT: Sari for sale

2006-04-13 Thread Katie Lewis
I am selling a cotton ikat sari, approximately 5.5 yards long.  If interested 
please email me off list.

-Katie

-- 
___

Search for businesses by name, location, or phone number.  -Lycos Yellow Pages

http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC=lycos10


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume