[h-cost] Looking for picture link

[Pierre & Sandy Pettinger]

Hello, all,

IIRC sometime in the last 2 months or so, someone posted a bunch of 
links to various Elizabethan-era portraits.  One of them (which may 
or may not have been actually Elizabeth I) showed a very large 
standing collar - not quite a ruff, but definitely higher than the 
top of the head.  Something you would need the supportasse from h**l 
to hold up.


And now I can't find it when I need it.  Does this sound familiar to 
anyone?  If it does, can you re-post the link, please?


I'm building a fantasy-oriented Elizabethan, and that large collar is 
exactly the look I want - I just can't find an image in any of my 
books and I can't seem to explain it to hubby so he can visualize it.


TIA,
Sandy   (who hopes that this will teach her to bookmark stuff she 
likes immediately!!)


"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
 -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  



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RE: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes

[Linda Rice]

Long, long ago, before I understood the finer points of historical
accuracy in fabrics, I once had a lovely piece of heavy darkdark blue
linen. It was s nice, so I made my very first all-hand-sewn kirtle
out of it. I wore it for a year or so and was very happy. Then I learned
some stuff and I realized that I really shouldn't have such a darkdark
blue linen gown. So I endeavored to lighten it. Should be easy peasy, or
so I thought in my still-not-quite-educated mind. 

I put the dress into the washer with a couple of boxes of color remover.
I followed the directions to a T, and I waited. And waited. And, waited
some more. Finally after a full day and night of nothing happening to
the color, I rinsed it out. Bleach I thought, I bet bleach would do the
trick. So, I carefully mixed the bleach into the washer water and added
the still damp dress. And I waited and watched. 

Nothing happened. Nothing at all. 

So, I kept at this all day- a whole second day of futzing around with
this dress- and the color didn't budge. By evening I was pretty much
over this dress so I left it in the washer over night. In the words of
the great Hagrid- I "Prolly shouldna done that". Next morning the dress
was a gawdawful splotchy gray. It looked like it had been wadded up
while wet and left to mildew. Gack! What to do? 

Two boxes of Rit dye, of course! Now my dress was a mauve-elous color,
and not too splotchy looking either. Ta da! Or so I thought, in my
still-not-very-smart-but-about-to-get-a-clue brain. 

I wore the dress to an event. It was hot, so I pulled at the front of
the neckline to get a little air. RIIPP went the neckline. A few
minutes later, RIP went the elbows! Crap! I'm disintegrating in
front of the whole herd of people! Thank goodness I had an apron dress
on, or else I'da been very nervous indeed. 

Now, because I hand sewed each and every stitch in that dress, and then
went over every seam with a contrasting herringbone stitch, I was not
about to give up so easily! I cut off the top and made a linen Viking
apron dress out of it. It doesn't have any stress on it anywhere so it's
held up pretty good, even 6+ years later. 

I do not at all recommend trying to remove darkdark blue dye from linen.
YMMV, but don't count on it! 

::Linda::


On Behalf Of Dawn
Subject: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes

I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to make a 16th century 
dress out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly black, and I'd like 
to lighten it a bit. Fade it, even.

I washed a test piece and some color came out in the water, but did not 
noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was excess dye.

I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution and the fabric 
turned a chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I wanted. And even 
then, it has dark blue dye spots all over it.

I suspect that dye remover will get me the same result.

Does anyone know of another method I could use for getting a more faded 
blue out of this?


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Re: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes

[Saragrace Knauf]

Dawn, I would contact Dharmatrading company.  They are very helpful. 
http://www.dharmatrading.com/
They can recommend the best color remover for linen and they probably sell it 
too!

Sg
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dawn 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 7:55 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes


  I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to make a 16th century 
  dress out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly black, and I'd like 
  to lighten it a bit. Fade it, even.

  I washed a test piece and some color came out in the water, but did not 
  noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was excess dye.

  I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution and the fabric 
  turned a chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I wanted. And even 
  then, it has dark blue dye spots all over it.

  I suspect that dye remover will get me the same result.


  Does anyone know of another method I could use for getting a more faded 
  blue out of this?



  Dawn




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Re: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes

[Sylvia Rognstad]

I don't think it's possible.  Usually when you bleach dyed fabric, it 
turns a different color.  Only thing to do is to bleach the hell out of 
it and then overdye it.  If you do that, however, you run the risk of 
damaging the fabric.  You should buy some Antichlor to remove the 
excess bleach.


You could try another lightening agent, like hydrosulfite, but I 
suspect it will do the same thing.


Sylrog

On Aug 27, 2007, at 8:55 PM, Dawn wrote:

I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to make a 16th century 
dress out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly black, and I'd like 
to lighten it a bit. Fade it, even.


I washed a test piece and some color came out in the water, but did 
not noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was excess dye.


I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution and the fabric 
turned a chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I wanted. And even 
then, it has dark blue dye spots all over it.


I suspect that dye remover will get me the same result.


Does anyone know of another method I could use for getting a more 
faded blue out of this?




Dawn




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[h-cost] questions about linen and dyes

[Dawn]

I've got a very dark blue linen that I'd like to make a 16th century 
dress out of. However, it's very very dark, nearly black, and I'd like 
to lighten it a bit. Fade it, even.


I washed a test piece and some color came out in the water, but did not 
noticeably lighten the fabric. I think this was excess dye.


I soaked a test piece in a very weak bleach solution and the fabric 
turned a chocolate brown color. Nice, but not what I wanted. And even 
then, it has dark blue dye spots all over it.


I suspect that dye remover will get me the same result.


Does anyone know of another method I could use for getting a more faded 
blue out of this?




Dawn




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Re: [h-cost] reporting copyright violations

[aquazoo]

> Nothing is stoping ANYONE on this list from taking the
> trouble to contact the Metropolitan Museum and letting
> them know that there might be derrivative work going
> on, since ALL of us now know about the potential
> violation...

 I tend to approach the potential violater first — if someone is using
images on their web page that were scanned from a book, for example. 
There are a lot of people who are unaware of the laws, or just don't
think about it.

 -Carol

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Re: [h-cost] Chinese costuming help

[Ann Catelli]

--- Julie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I bought Folkwear's cheongsam dress and Chinese coat
> patterns.  Now I'm looking for some embroidery
> and/or applique details.  An image search turned up
> some gorgeous coats/gowns from museums.  I'm trying
> to find sketches or schematics of decorative facings
> and embroidery that are usable to someone who
> doesn't draw.  I've been begging hubby to draw some
> of the details off the museum photos for me but
> nothing so far.
> 
> Julie

The cheongsam, while a truly lovely garment, was
developed in Shanghai around 1930 from an earlier and
looser coat/robe garment (rather like this men's
garment (center one) from the late nineteenth century
in Max Tilke:
).

This information only brings you back to the
nineteenth century, though.  sorry.


Ann in CT


   

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Re: [h-cost] Chinese costuming help

[Dawn]

Julie wrote:
My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575.  We don't have to be particularly authentic, just recognizably Chinese. 



I know Dover books has a couple on Chinese designs. They are cheap and 
readily available through most bookstores. It's all black and white line 
drawings and easy to reproduce, and permission is given with each 
purchased book to do so.


Joann's is advertising brocade on sale for $5.99 this week. You might be 
able to cut strips of that and use it as edging on something. I'm not 
sure using poly brocade for the whole dress is a good idea this time of 
year.




Dawn

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Re: [h-cost] Chinese costuming help

[Andrew T Trembley]

On Aug 27, 2007, at 2:33 PM, Julie wrote:
My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575.  We  
don't have to be particularly authentic, just recognizably  
Chinese.  She's supposed to be the widow of a Chinese trader in  
spices, silks & opium visiting the Spanish court.


It'll be a smidge expensive on the used/rare book market, but find a  
copy of "5000 years of Chinese Costume."


It's the most comprehensive resource I've ever found on Chinese  
clothing.


andy
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[h-cost] Chinese costuming help

[Julie]

My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575.  We don't have to 
be particularly authentic, just recognizably Chinese.  She's supposed to be the 
widow of a Chinese trader in spices, silks & opium visiting the Spanish court.

I bought Folkwear's cheongsam dress and Chinese coat patterns.  Now I'm looking 
for some embroidery and/or applique details.  An image search turned up some 
gorgeous coats/gowns from museums.  I'm trying to find sketches or schematics 
of decorative facings and embroidery that are usable to someone who doesn't 
draw.  I've been begging hubby to draw some of the details off the museum 
photos for me but nothing so far.

Any leads?  Thanks in advance.
Julie
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Re: [h-cost] copy rights

[AlbertCat]

In a message dated 8/27/2007 3:30:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> It  may also be that as a foreign artist

 

Is he an artist? I mean, it looks like bad paint-by-number of someone  else's 
photos... of someone else's display of someone else's handiwork. At least  
when Andy Warhol did Campbell Soup cans and Roy Lichtenstein did comic book  
images, there was a point.
 
Of course the quality has nothing to do with copyright  laws



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Re: [h-cost] last embroidery

[MaggiRos]

Yet again this work just takes my breath away. I'm
just continually in awe, Bjarne.

MaggiRos
--- Saragrace Knauf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Aside from it's beauty, I amazed at the speed at
> which you work!  Wow!
> It is beautiful!
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Bjarne og Leif
> Drews 
>   To:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 11:26 AM
>   Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery
> 
> 
> 
>   Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery
> for the jacket of the 
>   silver spangeled suit.
>   This has ben a lot of work, with moments of
> dispare and solitude.
>   10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with
> the leaves in Beak Street, 
>   London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a
> slow and tedious work. I 
>   am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the
> result.
>   Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just
> finnished the last embroidery 
>   on the second pocket flap
>  
>
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
> 
> 
>   Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   Leif og Bjarne Drews
>  

Vikings? What Vikings? We are but poor, simple farmers. The 
village was burning when we got here.

Anon.
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Re: [h-cost] reporting copyright violations (Digest, Vol 6, Issue 398)

[Lavolta Press]

Fran, it almost sounds like YOU ought to be one of the
ones to take the inititive, since it's something you
appear to feel strongly about.  And if it isn't, then
may I ask why you're telling someone else that they
should bother?


I have missed messages in this thread because I have Bjarne in my spam 
filter list, which routes all messages with "Bjarne" in the body of the 
email to my trash folder. I usually only see his messages when quoted in 
other people's emails, and then only by accident.


Therefore, I do not know who the artist is, where the exhibition is, and 
so forth. It is useless to contact the Met saying, "I think some painter 
somewhere in Scandanavia is violating your copyrights, but I don't know 
what their name is, or at what museum or gallery the violating works are 
exhibited."  I do not even have any information as to whether any of 
these works are on a website, or whether Bjarne saw them in person 
somewhere.  The Met needs information that will enable them to contact 
the artist.


Normally, whenever I run across a copyright violation I DO immediately 
report it to the copyright owner.  As Bjarne has the necessary contact 
information, I thought it best that he do it.


Why do you find it objectionable that I suggest that Bjarne, who has the 
most information, should do this?


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Re: [h-cost] Luttrell psalter in motion

[Joan Jurancich]

At 12:09 PM 8/27/2007, you wrote:

 http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/

This is forwarded from another list, but I thought some of you might 
appreciate it.


Sg


For some reason your original link was doubled, so I edited it in this reply.

What a wonderful project!  I really liked the sheep milking 
scene.  Thank you for sending this link.



Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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Re: [h-cost] Luttrell psalter in motion

[Beteena Paradise]

Curiously enough... the woman who is costuming this project just bought two 
pairs of poulaines from me. :)
   
  Teena

Saragrace Knauf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/

This is forwarded from another list, but I thought some of you might appreciate 
it.

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] copy rights

[Dawn]

Kimiko Small wrote:

It may also be that as a foreign artist, he may be
working under different copyright laws than we in the
US are familiar with. 



All of Europe is signatory to the Berne Convention. Most of the world is 
actually. Notable exceptions are Iran, Iraq, Burma, Laos and Cambodia, 
Ethiopia and Somalia, and Taiwan -- a major source DVD piracy.


He may be working under the *impression* that the laws are different 
over there, but they are not.




Dawn

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[h-cost] reporting copyright violations (Digest, Vol 6, Issue 398)

[Stephanie Smith]

Nothing is stoping ANYONE on this list from taking the
trouble to contact the Metropolitan Museum and letting
them know that there might be derrivative work going
on, since ALL of us now know about the potential
violation... If Bjorn isn't that fussed by it (and if
I'm not) that's our own problem.  

Fran, it almost sounds like YOU ought to be one of the
ones to take the inititive, since it's something you
appear to feel strongly about.  And if it isn't, then
may I ask why you're telling someone else that they
should bother?

On a related topic: if an oil painting of a costume in
an exhibit is a derivative work and a copyright
violation, is a costume based on a painting (or other
media)?  Most historical ones are probably
sufficiently well known that we're ok, but what if
someone wanted to, say, make a costume based off a
portrait/photo of, say, one of the (American) First
Lady's Inaguration Gown?  

Steph 

> Message: 15
> Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 09:04:56 -0700
> From: Lavolta Press <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights
> To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
> format=flowed
> 
> Personally, I think you should tell them, and then
> leave it up to them 
> whether to do anything about it.  But otherwise,
> with this being a 
> foreign artist, they may not know.
> 
> Fran
> 
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> > Dear Fran,
> > I am not conserned about the matter, i was just
> curious about if this 
> > was legally ok to do.
> > 
> > Bjarne



  

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Re: [h-cost] copy rights

[Lavolta Press]

As most countries have agreed to respect each others' copyright laws, 
you cannot legally violate the copyright of someone in a foreign country.


Fran

Kimiko Small wrote:


It may also be that as a foreign artist, he may be
working under different copyright laws than we in the
US are familiar with. 


Kimiko

--- Lavolta Press <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



Personally, I think you should tell them, and then
leave it up to them 
whether to do anything about it.  But otherwise,
with this being a 
foreign artist, they may not know.


Fran





   

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[h-cost] Luttrell psalter in motion

[Saragrace Knauf]

 http://www.luttrellpsalter.org.uk/

This is forwarded from another list, but I thought some of you might appreciate 
it.

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] copy rights

[Kimiko Small]

It may also be that as a foreign artist, he may be
working under different copyright laws than we in the
US are familiar with. 

Kimiko

--- Lavolta Press <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Personally, I think you should tell them, and then
> leave it up to them 
> whether to do anything about it.  But otherwise,
> with this being a 
> foreign artist, they may not know.
> 
> Fran



   

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Re: [h-cost] copy rights

[Lavolta Press]

Personally, I think you should tell them, and then leave it up to them 
whether to do anything about it.  But otherwise, with this being a 
foreign artist, they may not know.


Fran

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


Dear Fran,
I am not conserned about the matter, i was just curious about if this 
was legally ok to do.


Bjarne

- Original Message - From: "Lavolta Press" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 4:37 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights


Yes, I think it is. There was, BTW, a legal case where an artist took 
a Victoria's Secret catalog lingerie photo, and did a painting from it 
for the cover of a romance novel, changing the clothes a bit (such as 
they were).  He was sued and lost.


If Bjarne is concerned he should contact the Metropolitan Museum.

Fran

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


it does look like a derivative work.


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Re: [h-cost] copy rights

[Bjarne og Leif Drews]

Dear Fran,
I am not conserned about the matter, i was just curious about if this was 
legally ok to do.


Bjarne

- Original Message - 
From: "Lavolta Press" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 4:37 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copy rights


Yes, I think it is. There was, BTW, a legal case where an artist took a 
Victoria's Secret catalog lingerie photo, and did a painting from it for 
the cover of a romance novel, changing the clothes a bit (such as they 
were).  He was sued and lost.


If Bjarne is concerned he should contact the Metropolitan Museum.

Fran

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

it does look like a derivative work.

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