[h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
Do anyone on this fine list knows how to make a tricorn hat and wants to share the info? I'll appreciate it very much. JP ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
A tricorn is just a regular round brimmed hat with the brim folded up in three places. You can fashion a tricorn out of any round brimmed hat. The particular style varied thru it's time of fashion with the brim being wider/higher vs narrower/lower so it will depend on exactly where in the timeline you are trying to be. Do you have a particular year or fashion you are trying to do? Karen Seamstrix -- Original Message -- From: HAGIOS FENUM hagiosfe...@prtc.net To: h-cost...@indra.com, h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 07:26:16 -0400 Do anyone on this fine list knows how to make a tricorn hat and wants to share the info? I'll appreciate it very much. JP ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Digital Photography - Click Now. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTDvmQkFgfjrvDn5HDF58GBISDMiWOXXKQErA8qGgB68zBzcDSoOHW/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Edwardian maternity dresses
I figure you're the one I should ask! A friend of mine in America is going to a PEERS picnic in August (Not sure what that is, but I'm guessing it's a historical recreation group) she'll be about 5 months pregnant by then, so she's looking for ANY images of what a pregnant woman would have worn in the Edwardian period (specifically 1910-1914), any suggestions about where she should start looking? So far I've suggested that the empire line fashion of that era should work OK but has anyone got better resources. In this period it wasn't proper to be showing, outside your own house, but women had to go out during pregnancy. So search for things like a box coat, which hangs straight down in front, without a waist. Then, for the event, keep it on. Make it lightweight so you can do this. Outerwear shaped like this show up in the 1880s and are seen straight through the early 1900s. Original sources never, of course, mention pregnancy, which is probably why you can't find it by searching on that. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
In a message dated 4/6/2009 9:13:55 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, penhal...@juno.com writes: A tricorn is just a regular round brimmed hat with the brim folded up in three places. You can fashion a tricorn out of any round brimmed hat. The particular style varied thru it's time of fashion with the brim being wider/higher vs narrower/lower so it will depend on exactly where in the timeline you are trying to be. Do you have a particular year or fashion you are trying to do? ** Yes, they are very easy. Just turn the brim up in 3 places to get 3 corners (Tri-corn). Mostly the crowns are low and rounded. At 1st the turning up is evenly placed, but then later in the century they start playing with it. Like in the 80's and 90's the turn up in the back will be bigger than the other two. (One corner is always worn to the front so you always have a turn up in back) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621488x1201450096/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Edwardian maternity dresses
In a message dated 4/5/2009 11:47:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, katybisho...@gmail.com writes: a 1911 day dress The waist could be raised a bit and the skirt altered, and I wonder if nursing slits could be hidden under the yoke for post-pregnancy. * Good heavens, woman! This is 1912! You aren't supposed to out and about...pregnant and nursing! SeriouslyI like the 1st dress #8109. Imagine it in a busy, Art Nouveau patterned fabric. The lines running down each side front from neckline to hem seem perfect for your condition. Add a narrow scarf that goes around your neck with ends hang to the hem...one in front and one in back maybe? Very spiffy and many elements to detour from a pregnant figure. (I doubt in this era anyone would display their pregnancy... if not try to hide it completely.) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621488x1201450096/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Edwardian maternity dresses
The tea gown or wrapper seems to have been common maternity wear in the late Victorian and Edwardian periods. This is not made very explicit. But if you look at some illos you can see, for example, things like a sack-like front with a very loose waist sash tied at the bottom of the abdomen. And in pattern descriptions, read references to things like can be closed with hooks and eyes or if necessary lacing (the lacing could of course be loosened). Tea gowns and wrappers were made of a much wider variety of materials than the lightweight silks commonly associated with fancy tea gowns, and the homey flannels and calicos associated with morning wrappers. In other words, they were made in materials you could wear all day. I am not sure how much they were worn outside the home. But as someone said, some version of a loose boxy coat was often available and that could cover a lot in terms of not only pregnancy but the gown worn for it. I have an original circa 1911 brown velvet dress with a bertha-like cape that covers a bound slit on each side of the bodice. The skirt is not ample enough for pregnancy, but it's certainly a nursing dress. It's a nice dress and quite suitable for wear outside the home. I did not even realize it was a nursing dress till after I bought it. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com albert...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 4/5/2009 11:47:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, katybisho...@gmail.com writes: a 1911 day dress The waist could be raised a bit and the skirt altered, and I wonder if nursing slits could be hidden under the yoke for post-pregnancy. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 18th Century Market Fair
That could be interesting. Thanks Judy! Might even be lucky convince some of the nieces nephews to go, too. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com --Forwarded Message-- Do you know about the 18th Century Market Fair at Fort Frederick that weekend (Apr 23-26)? Just head west on I70 to just a bit beyond Hagerstown (Big Pool, MD) and Ft Fred is a State Park. Many folks are in assorted garb, lots of assorted vendors, dunno if they're still doing the rendezvous shooting (I don't think so, but I could be wrong). http://www.friendsoffortfrederick.info/market_fair.htm -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] The fit of 17th century stockings?
Stockings in 17th century are more likely to be baggy. Specially if without clocks so don't need to show off pattern. Woven or knitted, expensive silk stockings didn't have as much stretch. In paintings such as Van Dyck's they're oftentimes deliberately wrinkly and that's meant to be attractive, not a sign the wearer was too poor to buy good stockins or too lazy to pull them up! Sometimes the gusset is shown in the side of the shoe so it's not over-romanticising the garment for artistic effect. Sewers and knitters of cheaper woollen ones still tried to follow fashion even if at a distance. They'd aim for a good fit, but not the skin-tight svelte fit of modern stretchy machine-made pantyhose. It's generally unfair and patronising to assume that past craftsmen and artists didn't know what they're doing. Often it's true they used certain methods because they didn't know anything else. Eg some oil paintings discoloured because that artist or their paint supplier hadn't been taught how to grind and mix the paints correctly so the colours fade and distort over time, or they only knew how to create certain effects by using colour glazes and varnishes removed by overcleaning in the more recent past. But oftentimes they knew exactly what they were doing, experience and sensible deduction frequently highlight why. It's also mistake to view period fit through modern eyes. What we find attractive and commonsense isn't guaranteed attractive and commonsense in period. Very quick and ungrammatical as I'm going out! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Edwardian maternity dresses
I own a lovely pink silk day dress about 1894 with lacing for the entire length of the side front seams to let out for pregnancy, probably wouldn't have worked for the entire pregnancy but would have helped disguise the first few months after one has started to show. It has a false jacket front that disguises the lacing and expanding waistline. It is a very high fashion outfit made by a Boston (I think) dressmaker. It's wonderful in that it is actually pretty. I agree that ideally it was not proper to appear very pregnant in public. Disguise is the catch-word. A friend copied an original 1910s 2 piece dress when she was pregnant, the top consisted of a loose, smock-like, top which was belted with a sash at the high waist, above the belly, and a separate skirt. I have come across several articles on maternity sewing in 'teens magazines. Wish I had gathered then together at the time, but I didn't think I'd be pregnant again.:~) Katy On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 3:10 PM, albert...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 4/5/2009 11:47:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, katybisho...@gmail.com writes: a 1911 day dress The waist could be raised a bit and the skirt altered, and I wonder if nursing slits could be hidden under the yoke for post-pregnancy. * Good heavens, woman! This is 1912! You aren't supposed to out and about...pregnant and nursing! SeriouslyI like the 1st dress #8109. Imagine it in a busy, Art Nouveau patterned fabric. The lines running down each side front from neckline to hem seem perfect for your condition. Add a narrow scarf that goes around your neck with ends hang to the hem...one in front and one in back maybe? Very spiffy and many elements to detour from a pregnant figure. (I doubt in this era anyone would display their pregnancy... if not try to hide it completely.) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621488x1201450096/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Edwardian maternity dresses
'teens magazines? oh, my. (Sorry) LynnD On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 1:09 PM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote: I own a lovely pink silk day dress about 1894 with lacing for the entire length of the side front seams to let out for pregnancy, probably wouldn't have worked for the entire pregnancy but would have helped disguise the first few months after one has started to show. It has a false jacket front that disguises the lacing and expanding waistline. It is a very high fashion outfit made by a Boston (I think) dressmaker. It's wonderful in that it is actually pretty. I agree that ideally it was not proper to appear very pregnant in public. Disguise is the catch-word. A friend copied an original 1910s 2 piece dress when she was pregnant, the top consisted of a loose, smock-like, top which was belted with a sash at the high waist, above the belly, and a separate skirt. I have come across several articles on maternity sewing in 'teens magazines. Wish I had gathered then together at the time, but I didn't think I'd be pregnant again.:~) Katy On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 3:10 PM, albert...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 4/5/2009 11:47:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, katybisho...@gmail.com writes: a 1911 day dress The waist could be raised a bit and the skirt altered, and I wonder if nursing slits could be hidden under the yoke for post-pregnancy. * Good heavens, woman! This is 1912! You aren't supposed to out and about...pregnant and nursing! SeriouslyI like the 1st dress #8109. Imagine it in a busy, Art Nouveau patterned fabric. The lines running down each side front from neckline to hem seem perfect for your condition. Add a narrow scarf that goes around your neck with ends hang to the hem...one in front and one in back maybe? Very spiffy and many elements to detour from a pregnant figure. (I doubt in this era anyone would display their pregnancy... if not try to hide it completely.) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! ( http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621488x1201450096/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.comhttp://www.vintagevictorian.com/ Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Edwardian maternity dresses
In a message dated 4/6/2009 4:20:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, lynndownw...@gmail.com writes: A friend copied an original 1910s 2 piece dress when she was pregnant, the top consisted of a loose, smock-like, top which was belted with a sash at the high waist, above the belly, and a separate skirt. I have come across several articles on maternity sewing in 'teens magazines. Wish I had gathered then together at the time, but I didn't think I'd be pregnant again.:~) ** I wonder if there is some sort of aesthetic dress of the period that would be an unstructured thinglike a Fortuny Delphos dress with its kimono like jacketor something The avante guard was quite chic and acceptable. I watched the film Wings of a Dove again and it reminded me of all the avante guard dress that was going on in upper-crust circles. Charlotte Rampling wears things like hostess pajamas and turbans. A beautifully design, by Sandy Powell, film that was mysteriously eclipsed by the very very inferiorly costumed, and dull, Titanic. **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621488x1201450096/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
Thanks for answering; the period is 1789-1797. Know how to keep the folds put? -Original Message- From: penhal...@juno.com [mailto:penhal...@juno.com] Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 9:12 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats A tricorn is just a regular round brimmed hat with the brim folded up in three places. You can fashion a tricorn out of any round brimmed hat. The particular style varied thru it's time of fashion with the brim being wider/higher vs narrower/lower so it will depend on exactly where in the timeline you are trying to be. Do you have a particular year or fashion you are trying to do? Karen Seamstrix -- Original Message -- From: HAGIOS FENUM hagiosfe...@prtc.net To: h-cost...@indra.com, h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 07:26:16 -0400 Do anyone on this fine list knows how to make a tricorn hat and wants to share the info? I'll appreciate it very much. JP ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Digital Photography - Click Now. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTDvmQkFgfjrvDn5HDF58GBISDM iWOXXKQErA8qGgB68zBzcDSoOHW/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
In a message dated 4/6/2009 7:42:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, hagiosfe...@prtc.net writes: Know how to keep the folds put? * They can be steamed and lacquered in place. But also they are tacked to the crown. This can be done invisibly (Like place the tacking stitches where the binding of the brim is sewn) or it can be elaborately done so you can see itas seen on many military hats and on bicorns. **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621488x1201450096/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
The tricorn origin was just pinning up wide-brim hats until the floppy bits were out of the way. The most common of what we call a tricorn had a dome crown (cylindrical is not unheard of but the dome is the most common). So: Grab a hat that matches your size requirements. If you have a larger one, pin it up and cut the brim; Wet the thing with felt stiffener (there are several brands, all stink to high heaven so do it outdoors or in a ventilated area), set the shape that you want and leave it to dry; As a tip, if you do not have a reliably heavy hatblock or mannequin head to leave it dry upon, use a ball of the right size; Add decoration and edging when dry, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads ...not!
You know what the worse part of using a ball or bowl,is the shap is indeed round. Most peoples heads are actually oval, so if you set it to dry on a ball the fit is off and really hard to keep on your head. I had this happen with a very nice 1900 era straw boater, I set it to dry on a gallon paint can and when it was dry it looked like a cheap party hat,a round hat trying to sit on my oval head. If I had to do it over again, I would don a plastic shower cap and wear the darn hat til it dried.Those wig head stands usually have a very small circumference,too melody --- On Mon, 4/6/09, stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au wrote: From: stils...@netspace.net.au stils...@netspace.net.au Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 5:38 PM The tricorn origin was just pinning up wide-brim hats until the floppy bits were out of the way. The most common of what we call a tricorn had a dome crown (cylindrical is not unheard of but the dome is the most common). So: Grab a hat that matches your size requirements. If you have a larger one, pin it up and cut the brim; Wet the thing with felt stiffener (there are several brands, all stink to high heaven so do it outdoors or in a ventilated area), set the shape that you want and leave it to dry; As a tip, if you do not have a reliably heavy hatblock or mannequin head to leave it dry upon, use a ball of the right size; Add decoration and edging when dry, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
