Re: [h-cost] 1620s jacket vs waistcoat
Thank you everyone for your thoughts on this question. It has both been enlightening, and a bit frustrating, but in some ways that is not surprising. Thanks again, :-) Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns
Kayta used to do that, too. Must have shown me years ago, because I've been doing it for at least 20 years myself. It really DOES make things easier. And Kayta never even added the grommets-- just used heavy denim and poked holes with a pointy tool (never an *edge* tool, which would cut fibres). == Marjorie Wilser (missing my dear fitting buddy so much today) =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Jan 7, 2011, at 9:56 PM, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote: A note on fitting corset muslins: A hint I got several years ago - don't remember from where - was to create two strips out of heavy material - old jeans will do in a pinch. Make them at least double thickness, and put a narrow bone of some sort along the edge fold. Then put in grommets about every inch. Make them longer than you think you'll need for any possible corset style you might ever make. These can then be basted into a muslin so you can lace it up properly to check the fit, without having to put in grommets, try to pin it to fit (not happening), or making slits that then rip out after one fitting. Once you have the fit, remove them and use them for the next corset muslin. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns
A note on fitting corset muslins: A hint I got several years ago - don't remember from where - was to create two strips out of heavy material - old jeans will do in a pinch. Make them at least double thickness, and put a narrow bone of some sort along the edge fold. Then put in grommets about every inch. Make them longer than you think you'll need for any possible corset style you might ever make. These can then be basted into a muslin so you can lace it up properly to check the fit, without having to put in grommets, try to pin it to fit (not happening), or making slits that then rip out after one fitting. Once you have the fit, remove them and use them for the next corset muslin. These have made corset making much easier!! Sandy At 07:17 PM 1/7/2011, you wrote: I've made the LM corset, both styles, six time in total. They all went together easily, the instructions are clear and they fit well. The only thing that isn't clear s where the boning goes: on every seam and in between if you're a large size. The problem with all corset patterns is that they need to be fitted correctly before you even get to the sewing of them. Make a muslin! LynnD On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 2:18 PM, penhal...@juno.com wrote: > > I have used the Laughing Moon pattern and found it to be a very good > pattern. It is easy to make (comparatively speaking) and the instructions > are clear. I know other people who have used it and heard nothing but good > things about it from them. KarenSeamstrix -- Original Message > -- > From: "Rebecca Schmitt" > To: "'Historical Costume'" > Subject: [h-cost] question on corset patterns > Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 16:02:49 -0600 > > I am planning on making a bodice and dress from Truly Victorian's line > (TV490 Ball Gown Bodice & TV298 Umbrella Skirt, both from 1892). But, of > course before that, I need a corset! I went to GBACG Pattern Review, and > found nothing on TV's corset, but lots of great reviews on Laughing Moon's > Dore corset. > > My usual era is Elizabethan, so if I wear a corset, it is of a very > different construction. I would consider myself an intermediate sewer. > > Question: Do you prefer TV or LM corset, especially for a first-time > Victorian sewer? > > > Rebecca Schmitt > aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire > * International Costumers' Guild Archivist http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php "Those Who Fail to Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly - Why They Are Simply Doomed." Achemdro'hm "The Illusion of Historical Fact" -- C. Y. 4971 Andromeda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns
I've made the LM corset, both styles, six time in total. They all went together easily, the instructions are clear and they fit well. The only thing that isn't clear s where the boning goes: on every seam and in between if you're a large size. The problem with all corset patterns is that they need to be fitted correctly before you even get to the sewing of them. Make a muslin! LynnD On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 2:18 PM, penhal...@juno.com wrote: > > I have used the Laughing Moon pattern and found it to be a very good > pattern. It is easy to make (comparatively speaking) and the instructions > are clear. I know other people who have used it and heard nothing but good > things about it from them. KarenSeamstrix -- Original Message > -- > From: "Rebecca Schmitt" > To: "'Historical Costume'" > Subject: [h-cost] question on corset patterns > Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 16:02:49 -0600 > > I am planning on making a bodice and dress from Truly Victorian's line > (TV490 Ball Gown Bodice & TV298 Umbrella Skirt, both from 1892). But, of > course before that, I need a corset! I went to GBACG Pattern Review, and > found nothing on TV's corset, but lots of great reviews on Laughing Moon's > Dore corset. > > My usual era is Elizabethan, so if I wear a corset, it is of a very > different construction. I would consider myself an intermediate sewer. > > Question: Do you prefer TV or LM corset, especially for a first-time > Victorian sewer? > > > Rebecca Schmitt > aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire > * > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > Globe Life Insurance > $1* Buys $50,000 Life Insurance. Adults or Children. No Medical Exam. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d2791785a9daae6a9st01duc > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] corset patterns & bust size
General observation about Victorian corsets designed by modern persons (no matter how "historical" they are!): If you're big-busted even by a little, please note that many designers forget that more area *around* the boob itself is more area *up* and *down* in the corset itself -- ie, they fail to allow for cup size. If you need that adjustment, just remember that if you add to the sides of the bust, you need to add to the top of the bust cup too-- so you get the support you need (nothing to do withoverall coverage- that's your own lookout!). Been there, found that out :) == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Jan 7, 2011, at 2:18 PM, penhal...@juno.com wrote: I have used the Laughing Moon pattern and found it to be a very good pattern. It is easy to make (comparatively speaking) and the instructions are clear. I know other people who have used it and heard nothing but good things about it from them. KarenSeamstrix -- Original Message -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns
I have used the Laughing Moon pattern and found it to be a very good pattern. It is easy to make (comparatively speaking) and the instructions are clear. I know other people who have used it and heard nothing but good things about it from them. KarenSeamstrix -- Original Message -- From: "Rebecca Schmitt" To: "'Historical Costume'" Subject: [h-cost] question on corset patterns Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 16:02:49 -0600 I am planning on making a bodice and dress from Truly Victorian's line (TV490 Ball Gown Bodice & TV298 Umbrella Skirt, both from 1892). But, of course before that, I need a corset! I went to GBACG Pattern Review, and found nothing on TV's corset, but lots of great reviews on Laughing Moon's Dore corset. My usual era is Elizabethan, so if I wear a corset, it is of a very different construction. I would consider myself an intermediate sewer. Question: Do you prefer TV or LM corset, especially for a first-time Victorian sewer? Rebecca Schmitt aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire * ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Globe Life Insurance $1* Buys $50,000 Life Insurance. Adults or Children. No Medical Exam. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d2791785a9daae6a9st01duc ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] question on corset patterns
I am planning on making a bodice and dress from Truly Victorian's line (TV490 Ball Gown Bodice & TV298 Umbrella Skirt, both from 1892). But, of course before that, I need a corset! I went to GBACG Pattern Review, and found nothing on TV's corset, but lots of great reviews on Laughing Moon's Dore corset. My usual era is Elizabethan, so if I wear a corset, it is of a very different construction. I would consider myself an intermediate sewer. Question: Do you prefer TV or LM corset, especially for a first-time Victorian sewer? Rebecca Schmitt aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire * ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary
This discussion is not complete without thanking the list moderator who enables us all to enjoy this list. Moderation is inherently a hard, time-consuming job. It requires a lot of system administration to keep the list going technically and to avoid oodles of non-costume-related-spam. Thanks, Eliz! Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 1/7/2011 12:05 PM, Cin wrote: I remember that! --cin On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 11:27 AM, Agnes Gawne wrote: I have been on the list since at least spring of 1994. I remember we tried to have H labels for our name badges at the Costume Con in Santa Clara... I think that was CC12. Agnes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary
I remember that! --cin On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 11:27 AM, Agnes Gawne wrote: > > I have been on the list since at least spring of 1994. I remember we tried > to have H labels for our name badges at the Costume Con in Santa Clara... I > think that was CC12. > > Agnes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary
I have been on the list since at least spring of 1994. I remember we tried to have H labels for our name badges at the Costume Con in Santa Clara... I think that was CC12. Agnes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Queen Maud's wardrobe
It is lovely, indeed!? I have sewn the sideseams so I can continue the ribbon effect that extends to the train.? Maud is still traveling (held over at the Bradford house gallery) so I will wait until she returns to do a first fitting.? I have some lovely crimson silk velvet for the Robe and even a handful of ermine tails for effect (the remainder will be a dense antique plush.)? Found some great crowns to be appliqued to the back.? I know they were embroidered on the original, but I am not up to doing 50 or more motiffs. I finally got a good view of the coronation crown and that will be crafted also. ... -Original Message- From: Sent 1/6/2011 3:27:03 PM To: "'Historical Costume'" Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Maud's wardrobeWOW What a beautiful dress! Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 14 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1620s jacket vs waistcoat
According to a talk by Stuart Peachey which I heard last August, a waistcoat was a close-fitting sleeved upper garment worn by working women. Kimiko, the modern meaning of what Americans call a vest, as a man's garment, dates from the eighteenth century onwards. I think of a jacket in the seventeenth century context as the loose, often fur-trimmed women's garments often seen in Dutch genre paintings, but I don't know if that's a period term. The heavily embroidered ones from earlier in the century are also described as jackets in the modern context. My two penn'orth, Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary--A shout out!
I can't remember exactly when I joined the list, but I do remember Penny starting up her website. Most of it is way after my main period of interest, but congratulations and thanks for the free access! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1620s jacket/waistcoat.Website help,
Hi Kimiko, You could bop over toKass McGann's website "Reconstructing History".. Kass makes,researches and sell Historic patters,(much like Margo) she and her husband also portray people of this time period at one of the local historical villages near her. She answers email questions on all periods she does. Hope that helps Melody (waving to you from Margo's Patterns Group) --- On Thu, 1/6/11, Kimiko Small wrote: From: Kimiko Small Subject: [h-cost] 1620s jacket vs waistcoat To: "Historical Costume" Date: Thursday, January 6, 2011, 1:09 PM Hi all, I've been reading through the old Plymouth Plantation embroidery blog for their reproduction embroidered jacket, and they were talking about waistcoats and jackets, but in a way that made them seem interchangeable. I've tried googling their blog directly to see if they explain anywhere what the differences or similarities are, but all I found was one article that mention jackets, while the links themselves mention 3 waistcoats and 1 jacket. http://thistle-threads.com.mytempweb.com/blog/index.php/2009/01/new-jackets-to-view/ There was an earlier article where they said that the women would wear their smocks, petticoats and stays while indoors, but would not leave their homes without wearing a waistcoat or a jacket. I had thought waistcoats were like vests, but this is a time period that is new to me so I am not sure what they meant by waistcoat. Would anyone here be able to explain what the differences are, if any? Thank you, Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com "Be the change you want to see in the world." ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary--A shout out!
I wanted to give a shout out to the many people who have made my wonderful job so much easier over the years...many, many have been h-costumers. You all are such a great support group and a wealth of information!!! Many of our websites' visitors, subscribers, and students have been from this list. A large majority of our instructors and intern volunteers I met on this list. Some of you have loaned your collections or donated to go online in our Research Library. Kathleen Mitchell has loaned us several books, given me a vast collection of 1st Communion photos, and sold me her collections of antique wedding photos and antique fashion magazines. She has been such a wonderful supportive person over the years. Something that I didn't learn in my college business law class was copyright laws. Boy, I really learned them with the discussions between Fran and RL Shep!!! Kimiko, you have to be the fastest person that I have ever seen at restoring antique fashion plates for me. Shirley Hobbs, a quiet lurker, was one of our first typist interns and is still with us. She typed almost all the fashion trends reports in our 1860s A Year in Fashion series and a lot of sections of the Costume Dictionary. Franchesca Havas has been a Costume Classroom instructor for so long that I have forgotten when she started. She knows more about gloves than anyone I have ever met. Many are h-costumers are perfectly preserved our Online Costume Balls. That was such a blast doing the ball with all of you. It was fun to see you try to guess who some of the others were. Sandy and Pierre I looked forward to your entries every year. Robin, I believe you are a walking costume encyclopedia and it was a joy to meet you at Costume-Con. It was also fun having Sandy and Pierre to stalk you at CC so that I could meet you in person...with standing up. Ann Wass was one of our instructors and I met her in person not long after I graduated from college. I have rarely met up with you when you were not in costume! A BIG thank you to Eliza for being such a wonderful list-mom to all of us for so many years. You are a costume saint! Gosh, so many fun memories and great times with h-costume. I could write a novel on the fun we have all had here! Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 14 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
