Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns

2011-01-08 Thread Carol Kocian


For 18thC stays, which have straighter lines than the later era  
corsets, a possibility for making a muslin is to use cardboard.  
Ordinary heavy fabric won't have the vertical stiffness. The  
cardboard will help determine if the stays are too long, digging into  
an armpit, etc etc. And, of course, se duct tape to hold the  
cardboard pieces together!  :-)


-Carol



On Jan 7, 2011, at 9:56 PM, Pierre  Sandy Pettinger wrote:


A note on fitting corset muslins:

A hint I got several years ago - don't remember from where - was  
to create two strips out of heavy material - old jeans will do in  
a pinch.  Make them at least double thickness, and put a narrow  
bone of some sort along the edge fold.  Then put in grommets about  
every inch.  Make them longer than you think you'll need for any  
possible corset style you might ever make.  These can then be  
basted into a muslin so you can lace it up properly to check the  
fit, without having to put in grommets, try to pin it to fit (not  
happening), or making slits that then rip out after one fitting.   
Once you have the fit, remove them and use them for the next  
corset muslin.


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Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns

2011-01-08 Thread Lisa A Ashton
The LAughing Moon Corset is the one I use to teach my corset workshops,
although I use both the Dore and the Silverado.  The Silverado has the
advantage of  having bust gores, which make it much easier to adjust the
bust fit (they can also be used as hip gores if extra fabric isneeded at
the hip.).  I would say that the instructions aren't bad, although I
 have my own corset method, which makes a much more durable corset than
Ive ever made from a published pattern.  The main thing, is to get the
size right--and that means  make a muslin!  And make sure the side areas
aren't rubbing too high.  

I haven't made a corset from TV patterns, although other patterns Ive
used from TV, including many bodices, skirts and jackets, have worked out
extremely well.

Yours in cosutming,Lisa A


On Fri, 7 Jan 2011 16:02:49 -0600 Rebecca Schmitt
lotsofteap...@charter.net writes:
 I am planning on making a bodice and dress from Truly Victorian's 
 line
 (TV490 Ball Gown Bodice  TV298 Umbrella Skirt, both from 1892). 
 But, of
 course before that, I need a corset! I went to GBACG Pattern Review, 
 and
 found nothing on TV's corset, but lots of great reviews on Laughing 
 Moon's
 Dore corset.
  
 My usual era is Elizabethan, so if I wear a corset, it is of a very
 different construction. I would consider myself an intermediate 
 sewer.
  
 Question: Do you prefer TV or LM corset, especially for a 
 first-time
 Victorian sewer?
  
 
 Rebecca Schmitt
 aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
 *
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Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns

2011-01-08 Thread Data-Samtak Susan

This method has been promoted on the 18th century Rev War list as well.

Susan
NJ



On Jan 8, 11, at 8:45 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:



For 18thC stays, which have straighter lines than the later era  
corsets, a possibility for making a muslin is to use cardboard.  
Ordinary heavy fabric won't have the vertical stiffness. The  
cardboard will help determine if the stays are too long, digging  
into an armpit, etc etc. And, of course, se duct tape to hold the  
cardboard pieces together!  :-)


-Carol



On Jan 7, 2011, at 9:56 PM, Pierre  Sandy Pettinger wrote:


A note on fitting corset muslins:

A hint I got several years ago - don't remember from where - was  
to create two strips out of heavy material - old jeans will do in  
a pinch.  Make them at least double thickness, and put a narrow  
bone of some sort along the edge fold.  Then put in grommets about  
every inch.  Make them longer than you think you'll need for any  
possible corset style you might ever make.  These can then be  
basted into a muslin so you can lace it up properly to check the  
fit, without having to put in grommets, try to pin it to fit (not  
happening), or making slits that then rip out after one fitting.   
Once you have the fit, remove them and use them for the next  
corset muslin.


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Re: [h-cost] hair work

2011-01-08 Thread Lisa A Ashton
Thanks for the recommendation---I ordered the book, surprisingly, Lacis
had it for less than Amazon, but it does look like what I need to do
this.  IT could be a whole new venture for me, esp. since I could learn
to make the findings from PMC.

Yours in cosutming, Lisa A
 
On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 14:10:17 -0600 Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com
writes:
 On 12/31/2010 10:46 AM, Lisa A Ashton wrote:
  Does anyone have a book suggestion for learining to make Victorian 
 hair
  lockets/brooches?  It's my dearest wish to start making these.
 
 Hi Lisa,
 
 I don't know whether it's exactly what you had in mind, but Lacis 
 publishes a reprint of an 1875 book called The Art of Hair Work by 
 Mark 
 Campbell (shown here: http://lacis.com/catalog/).  It mainly seems 
 to 
 involve the different types of braid you can make.
 
 Emily
 
 
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[h-cost] Costume Con 29

2011-01-08 Thread Lisa A Ashton
Hello everyone, Lisa Ashton here.  I am the PRogram Director for Costume
Con 29 to be held at the end of April in Hasbrouck Heights, NJ.  

http://cc29nj.com/default.aspx

We would LOVE to have you come and join us in t he costume adventure.  If
you are attending, I would LOVE to put you on a panel or two about
historical costumes, using primary sources, or if you ahve a special
costume itnerest.  Please feel free to email me directly, or through the
website if you would like to be a program participant.  Single Day
memberships will also be available at the door.  Unfortunately , I am not
able to offer any complimentary memberships, even if you are
participating--the convention is too small to allow it, even the 
Committee members pay themembership fee.  But it will be a great time!

Yours in costuming, Lisa A
lis...@juno.com
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Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns

2011-01-08 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
Have you looked at the Mantua-Maker patterns?  My Mid-Victorian corset 
might be better if you have lots of curves since it has gores, but my Late 
Victorian corset was intended to go with that type of dress.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns, Renaissance 
to Victorian

  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, 
Definitions  Uses

  www.mantua-maker.com

I am planning on making a bodice and dress from Truly Victorian's line
(TV490 Ball Gown Bodice  TV298 Umbrella Skirt, both from 1892). But, of
course before that, I need a corset! I went to GBACG Pattern Review, and
found nothing on TV's corset, but lots of great reviews on Laughing Moon's
Dore corset.

My usual era is Elizabethan, so if I wear a corset, it is of a very
different construction. I would consider myself an intermediate sewer.

Question: Do you prefer TV or LM corset, especially for a first-time
Victorian sewer?


Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire 


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Re: [h-cost] hair work

2011-01-08 Thread Emily Gilbert
You're welcome!  I'd spotted the book at my local library a while back, 
and when you mentioned wanting to learn hair work, I thought of it right 
away.  Have fun experimenting with it - it sounds like a really neat craft!


Emily


On 1/8/2011 9:08 AM, Lisa A Ashton wrote:


Thanks for the recommendation---I ordered the book, surprisingly, Lacis
had it for less than Amazon, but it does look like what I need to do
this.  IT could be a whole new venture for me, esp. since I could learn
to make the findings from PMC.

Yours in cosutming, Lisa A

On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 14:10:17 -0600 Emily Gilbertemchantm...@gmail.com
writes:

On 12/31/2010 10:46 AM, Lisa A Ashton wrote:

Does anyone have a book suggestion for learining to make Victorian

hair

lockets/brooches?  It's my dearest wish to start making these.


Hi Lisa,

I don't know whether it's exactly what you had in mind, but Lacis
publishes a reprint of an 1875 book called The Art of Hair Work by
Mark
Campbell (shown here: http://lacis.com/catalog/).  It mainly seems
to
involve the different types of braid you can make.

Emily


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Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary

2011-01-08 Thread Margo Anderson
I'm still here!  I just don't have as much time to post these days,  
and most of the discussion of my main interest area has moved over to  
my own Yahoo list.


I joined in '96, when I was typing one handed because I was  
breastfeeding a newborn.  Now he's in high school, and taking an  
interest in costuming. He was the only kid to attend his eighth grade  
gradation in an impeccable vintage tuxedo.


The H-costume list saved my sanity, such as it was, during my early  
Mommy years.  it gave me a way to talk to grownups about my interests,  
and, wow, did I.  For several years I was vying with Penny and  
Maggiros to be the most prolific poster.


In 1999, when I started my business, h-cos was my source for vending  
vendors and suppliers, my focus group, and an eager customer base. It  
would have been far more difficult to do without the list members.


Just to point out how different things were back then,  I used to get  
up in the morning, start my email program, go to the kitchen and make  
a cup of coffee, put a load of laundry in, and come back to my  
computer just in time for the 100+ H-costume messages to show up.   
Most websites were Netscape grey with Times Roman fonts and no  
pictures, and pictures on E-bay were a rarity as well.  On the other  
hand, spam was so rare as to be remarkable when you got some in your  
email.


Here's to many more years!

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] hair work

2011-01-08 Thread Lists
Lisa -
There will be a merchant in the Marketplace at the 1860s Conference that
makes very nice reproduction hair jewelry. She may have some suggestions on
learning the craft and where to find findings, etc. Another merchant always
has a great selection of original hair jewelry for sale or inspiration. 

Regards,
Carolann Schmitt
cschm...@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies  Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011


  Does anyone have a book suggestion for learining to make Victorian 
 hair
  lockets/brooches?  It's my dearest wish to start making these.
 

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Re: [h-cost] hair work

2011-01-08 Thread Vicki Betts
If it is the same person that was there several years back, she did an
excellent job of weaving some of my own hair to put into an antique brooch
that had no hair in it at all when I bought it.  (I wouldn't have taken out
original hair to put my own in.)  Luckily I have past my waist length hair
so I only had to send her a little, because it went a long way.

Vicki Betts

Lisa -
There will be a merchant in the Marketplace at the 1860s Conference that
makes very nice reproduction hair jewelry. 
Regards,
Carolann Schmitt

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Re: [h-cost] hair work

2011-01-08 Thread Lisa A Ashton
That sounds terrific.  I hope to have read the book, and possibly even
started a project by then, but we'll see.  I was planning on bringing my
two vintage pieces to show and get comments on as well, I wore one of
them  with my first 1861 recreation dress at Philcon (a SF con in theP
hila. area every November), I competed with a friend from Philly who made
a Union Officer's uniform, and we won Best in Show.  And we looked great,
I thought.  Right now I'm beginning another dress, becasue I'm at the
conference for several days and I want to ahve an extra outtfit.  Too
much else to do for other conventions (not to mention my actual job to
pay teh mortgage) to attempt a ballgown of the era at this point, but
hopefully in the future.

Yours in costuming, Lisa A

On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 13:51:56 -0500 Lists li...@genteelarts.com writes:
 Lisa -
 There will be a merchant in the Marketplace at the 1860s Conference 
 that
 makes very nice reproduction hair jewelry. She may have some 
 suggestions on
 learning the craft and where to find findings, etc. Another merchant 
 always
 has a great selection of original hair jewelry for sale or 
 inspiration. 
 
 Regards,
 Carolann Schmitt
 cschm...@genteelarts.com
 www.genteelarts.com
 Ladies  Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011
 
 
   Does anyone have a book suggestion for learining to make 
 Victorian 
  hair
   lockets/brooches?  It's my dearest wish to start making these.
  
 
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Re: [h-cost] hair work

2011-01-08 Thread penny1a
It one of you gets good at hair work, look me up.  I have my daughter's long
braid from her first haircut at 6 y.o.  I saved it to have hair work made.
The braid is very thick and curly.   

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
14 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history

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Re: [h-cost] Book review

2011-01-08 Thread Zuzana Kraemerova
I know the book, it is originally written in Czech but has been translated into 
French and English (at least). I don't remember whether there are some coloured 
pictures, but if they are, there aren't many, most of it is black and white. 
There are no redrawings, only original art, but the quality of the pictures 
isn't as good as todays books - the book is actually quite old, but has been 
re-published. Ludmila Kybalova is the leading expert in costume history in 
the Czech Republic, she has written other books on the topic that haven't been 
translated. Personally, I think her texts aren't worth reading, at least they 
are too boring and sometimes misleading. A bit too global, nothing goes into 
detail, and if it does, it is questionable. She is not exact in her theories, 
she has little proves to what she says. Nevertheless I own some of her books 
and I do lurk into them - there is still some good info, although it's mainly 
the pictures, not the text.

Hope this helps,

Zuzana
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Re: [h-cost] Silk ribbon embroidery supplies

2011-01-08 Thread Zuzana Kraemerova
ribbonconnections.com 

Zuzana
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--- On Tue, 12/21/10, Janine Crocker jan...@missameliasminiatures.com wrote:

 From: Janine Crocker jan...@missameliasminiatures.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk ribbon embroidery supplies
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tuesday, December 21, 2010, 1:17 AM
 Hi Fran
 
 I find http://threadart.com very good for silk ribbon. They
 are reasonably priced and deliver quickly and easily to me
 in Spain. I suppose the only drawback is that there are only
 between 30 and 50 shades available in each width which can
 be a bit limiting if you want lots of tones of the same
 colour.
 
 Best wishes
 
 Janine
 
 
 
 http://missameliasminiatures.com/
 
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Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns

2011-01-08 Thread Claire Clarke

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2011 23:56:59 -0600
From: Pierre  Sandy Pettinger costu...@radiks.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns
Message-ID: e1pbrmm-0001ik...@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

A note on fitting corset muslins:

A hint I got several years ago - don't remember from where - was to 
create two strips out of heavy material - old jeans will do in a 
pinch.  Make them at least double thickness, and put a narrow bone of 
some sort along the edge fold.  Then put in grommets about every 
inch.  Make them longer than you think you'll need for any possible 
corset style you might ever make.  These can then be basted into a 
muslin so you can lace it up properly to check the fit, without 
having to put in grommets, try to pin it to fit (not happening), or 
making slits that then rip out after one fitting.  Once you have the 
fit, remove them and use them for the next corset muslin.

These have made corset making much easier!!

Sandy



This is so useful, and it works well for other things that will be laced
too, like 14th/15th century fitted gowns. Pinning stuff closed just doesn't
give you a good impression of how it is working. I use an old gown opening
that I cut out of a dress I was adjusting, from the days before I started
doing hand sewn lacing holes. 

Claire

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[h-cost] hair work

2011-01-08 Thread Julie Tamura

Thanks for the recommendation---I ordered the book, surprisingly, Lacis
had it for less than Amazon, but it does look like what I need to do
this.  IT could be a whole new venture for me, esp. since I could learn
to make the findings from PMC.

Yours in cosutming, Lisa A
 
***
Oops - sorry, I  just saw this.  I've been buying everything I can find on
hair work.  I found this book as a free download on Google Books.  It's not
a crystal clear copy but you could see if it's what you want.

Julie in Ramona

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