Re: [h-cost] 1880's casual dress question

2011-07-04 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
IIRC,  1879-80 is sort of between bustle periods.  What would a young 
English lady living on the coast of Cornwall be wearing? ...


If your young ladies have any pretense to fashion*, they'd wear the nearly 
bustle-less (they might wear a small bustle pad), very narrow skirts, but 
probably not as narrow as the fashion plates.


*If a girl wasn't out working, she had the free time to renovate her skirts 
to the narrower fashions.  Even house maids often did their best to copy 
the fashions, and making a narrow skirt was far cheaper than creating a 
full bustle dress.


Fran's books are absolutely brilliant.  I use them every time I need 
inspiration or details for that period.  Highly recommended!


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Quality historical sewing patterns, Renaissance to Victorian
  Now available:
  Elephant's Breath and London Smoke:
  Historical Colors, Names, Definitions  Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com


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Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns

2011-01-08 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
Have you looked at the Mantua-Maker patterns?  My Mid-Victorian corset 
might be better if you have lots of curves since it has gores, but my Late 
Victorian corset was intended to go with that type of dress.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns, Renaissance 
to Victorian

  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, 
Definitions  Uses

  www.mantua-maker.com

I am planning on making a bodice and dress from Truly Victorian's line
(TV490 Ball Gown Bodice  TV298 Umbrella Skirt, both from 1892). But, of
course before that, I need a corset! I went to GBACG Pattern Review, and
found nothing on TV's corset, but lots of great reviews on Laughing Moon's
Dore corset.

My usual era is Elizabethan, so if I wear a corset, it is of a very
different construction. I would consider myself an intermediate sewer.

Question: Do you prefer TV or LM corset, especially for a first-time
Victorian sewer?


Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire 


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[h-cost] Victorian Greek artistic dress

2010-12-14 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
Does anyone know of a link to Victorian Artistic Greek-style dresses?  I'm particularly looking for the source 
for the dress in English Women's Clothing in the Nineteenth Century, on page 345, labeled Greek costume 
embroidered in gold (Peter Robinson), 1888 - but I'd be happy to see any Victorian Greek or Classical dinner 
dress, ball dress, etc.  Not allegorical, though, or fancy dress.  Something real women wore (or might wear, 
as in fashion plates).


Thanks!
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns, Renaissance to 
Victorian
  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
 Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com

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Re: [h-cost] white and red cotton

2010-12-11 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
I suspect he is referring to a cotton like nankeen, which naturally grows in shades from yellow to dull red. 
I know it grows (grew?) in the far east, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was found in the middle east.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns, Renaissance to 
Victorian
  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
 Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com



In The Book of the Islamic Market Inspector (Oxford University Press,
1999), written in 12th-century Cairo by al-Shayzari, he says:

You must not mix new cotton with old nor red cotton with white. p.  89

What does he mean by red cotton?

Thank you.
Nancy

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.nancyspies.blogspot.com_ (http://nancyspies.blogspot.com/)
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html)


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Re: [h-cost] pseudo historic costume

2010-08-01 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
I agree with Nancy; you were robbed!  You gals did a great job.  Tell your 
daughter she gets my vote, hands down!


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns, Renaissance 
to Victorian

  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, 
Definitions  Uses

  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com

the only costume sewing I've done this year is for my daughter's 4H 
costume.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/21642...@n06/4833605329/

She fit the costume and made the armor and accessories and cut out all the
silver fabric applique. I had to iron it on because she melted the first
one, and I sewed the seams just to save needles and/or a trip to the repair
shop. (she's a rather careless seamstress)

Sadly (for us), the girl behind her won the class

Denise B
Iowa 


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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
I recently read (will try to hunt down the source, so this isn't official) 
that they normally wore the train over one arm.  The point was to bring the 
skirt close to the legs to emphasize the nearly naked look.


So trains didn't trail, they helped you look naughty.  ;-)

And they stayed clean!  The few trained muslin dresses I've seen had 
suspiciously unstained trains.  I'd wondered how the museums had gotten the 
mud out without damaging the fabric.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns, Renaissance 
to Victorian

  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, 
Definitions  Uses

  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com



I'm looking to make my first (non-fantasy-tinged) Regency gown, out of
white on white windowpane cotton.

I am finding that during my target time period (1800-1810) many (all?)
dresses had a train, even for day.

I'm considering eliminating this to reduce wear and tear (it's fine
white fabric after all), but if I choose to make one, what can I do to
minimize damage? Is it documented to include a lining, or loop the
train up, or detach it in some way? Arnold and Bradfield aren't
showing much so far, except for looped-up riding gowns, which isn't
the style I'm after.

Thoughts?

And thanks in advance,

Allison T. 


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[h-cost] Dictionary of colors in history

2010-01-04 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
 Uses  is a dictionary of colors as used in history that I put together. 
There are no color plates, only the descriptions in the original wording 
with the source cited.  It includes entries from around 1350 to 1922.


For example, there are nine entries on umber (not including burnt umber), 
dated 1600 to 1921.  The 1890 entry, in part, says a yellowish brown, 
while the 1708 entry describes it as a dark yellowish Colour us'd in 
Painting.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns, Renaissance 
to Victorian

  www.mantua-maker.com


From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com



Me, too, but there is a book (available at Amazon) which supposedly has

examples of all the old colors. I think the title has something to do with
elephants or smoke. Sorry, I don't remember exactly. It may also have
been discussed on the Elizabethan Clothing Tribe.


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Re: [h-cost] Thank you for info about a wooden loom

2009-07-29 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
Thank you to everyone who replied!  I have directed them to the Weaver's Guild, and will pass on the great instructions Rebecca 
provided.  I appreciate the help!


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
 Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com - See my Color of the Day


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[h-cost] I have a request for info about a wooden loom

2009-07-27 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

I have a new friend whose daughter inherited a large wooden loom - which 
unfortunately was disassembled.

Does anyone know of a website for general information about reassembling a very large loom?  He knows almost nothing about the loom 
(it's in another state).  His daughter could not find any markings on it.  It was manually operated.  Disassembled, it fit (barely) 
in the back of a pickup.


Is there a website he can use to get some idea of how to put it back together?

Thanks,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
 Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com - See my Color of the Day


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[h-cost] Costume Maker's Art

2009-05-08 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

BTW, if you're the same Deb Salisbury who designed the wizard tabard I wore

in Costume Maker's Art, now my 21-year-old has started making one.

How fun! But no, that was Deborah Jones. We met at BayCon about the time you made the Emperor's New Clothes. I think your daughter 
was 3 or 4 at the time.


I'd like to put in a plug for Costume Maker's Art, even if I'm not in it. ;)  
It's a brilliant book!

I've heard rumors occasionally that they want to put together a new version. 
Has anyone heard about that?

Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
 Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com - See my Color of the Day


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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about documentation

2009-05-07 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

Hi Kayta,

May I put your article on my website? I think it was very well done, and a good 
resource for historical costumers.

Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
 Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com - See my Color of the Day


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[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

2009-02-21 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

LOL! My fair lady is wearing a white cap, a white princess petticoat and a red 
corset. She's not ready for the Oscars.


It's Oscar weekend, theater season, it's almost spring. There must be
something!


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
 Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com 



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Re: [h-cost] Elephant's Breath and London Smoke Now Available

2009-02-06 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
My copies of Elephant's Breath and London Smoke are in the post. I plan to it on my website as soon as they get here, but since I 
don't know when they'll arrive ...


I'll put a notice on my website about it, though!

Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  Available any day now:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
 Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com



I've tried the links and I've tried to access your site

independently to order this book. Each time I get an error message and
get kicked out of IE. And there's no mechanism to order the book on
Deb's site. Is there an another way to order or get more information?

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Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question

2008-12-17 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

There is no overall easy change to grade a garment. You need to change one part 
a lot, and the other end just a hair in many cases.

My favorite grading book is Grading Techniques for Modern Design by Price and Zamkoff. It shows lots of variations, and I can 
usually find something close to the garment I am grading. It's not perfect, but it is usually very close.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  Upcoming, Spring 2009:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
 Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com


Dear List
I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency
gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into
other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this?
And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard?
When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from
my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size
patterns from an extant garment.
Many thanks,
Aylwen
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
http://www.regencyreproductions.com
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html

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Re: [h-cost] searching for a textiles textbook

2008-10-14 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
I don't know if this counts as a textbook, but I think Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide has all the information you 
mentioned.  It's a great book!


My copy was published by Chilton Book Company in 1989.   ISBN: 0-8019-7802-5

Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com

I know some of you teach or have taught textile classes, and it is you to
whom I come with a request for assistance:

I am in the process of writing up a pair of fiber classes (Fibers 101 and
102) and I am looking for a textiles textbook with useful discussions of
fiber properties including hand, drape, shrinkage, all that good stuff. I
have had Kadolph  Langford's _Textiles_ recommended to me as the one
that's used at the U of M(innesota)--are there any others that people
might recommend?

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[h-cost] Help with OT Costume

2008-09-11 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

I have been invited to a Halloween party, and I am trying to figure out

what to wear.  I have 10 yards of BRIGHT green/yellow silk brocade with
a small Chinese letter on it, that I have been wanting to use for year,
but it is not period, unless you consisted the 1980's a period.

I agree with the earlier comments.  A floor length Chinese scholar's gown with huge sleeves and wide yellow borders - what I think 
of as Mandarin, though I don't know why.  If you think it will be cold in the hall, you can put another gown under it, rather than 
spoil the effect with a coat (and you can get rid of the underlayer if it turns out too warm.)


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com


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Re: [h-cost] Woman's waistcoat 17th cent

2008-08-28 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

This is from Costume in England: A History of Dress by F W Fairholt, 
published in 1846.  Strutt died in 1802.

Waistcoat - A term originally used, as at present, for an under-garment or coat reaching only to the waist.  It ultimately, says 
Strutt, superseded the doublet, but not until such time as the latter appellation was totally dropped.  In the seventeenth century 
it regained its original position and meaning.


It's not much help.  Randle Holme was active 1683-1700, so he is a much better 
source.

I *think* the word bodice as we use it is late Victorian.  It was defined as a sort of stays in A Critical Pronouncing 
Dictionary, 1837 and in Costume in England, 1846 (boddice).  Webster's Dictionary defines it as Stays; a corset. in 1867.  In 
1884 the National Standard Encyclopedia defines it as A waistcoat quilted with whalebone, worn by women; stays; a corset.  Was 
that part of the question?



Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com


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[h-cost] New overskirt pattern from the Mantua-Maker

2008-08-22 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

I am pleased to announce that I have a new baby - no, a new pattern!  (I've 
been babysitting far too much lately!)

   1870 - 1890 Doña Madre Overskirt
   #1880-17

This overskirt is ideal as a dressy overskirt for any occasion.
Based on patterns from period sources.
Includes the full text of the original instructions.
Directions for many different styles of draperies.
This pattern has adaptations for the 1883 - 1887 aggressive bustle.
Variations and decoration ideas are included.
Foundation skirt is not included.
All sizes Petite - Full are included.
Price $12

For photos, please go to:
http://www.mantua-maker.com/new_victorian_patterns.html

Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com 


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Re: [h-cost] OT? Victorian Stage Make-Up

2008-08-07 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
I don't know of anything online, but I have a small 1890's book about Theatrical Make-up.  Do you have specific questions?  I could 
look them up.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com

Message: 8
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2008 16:46:38 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] OT? Victorian Stage Make-Up
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi!

Does anyone know of any on-line sources for information on the make-up the 
Victorian
actors and actress used?around the?1890's ?

With many thanks in advance
Jayne

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[h-cost] more fur repair-whitening

2008-07-29 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
I don't know if this will cure yellowing, but here is some advice from The Complete Dressmaker, published in 1907:  (white fur 
near the end)


 CLEANING FUR

The dark furs, such as seal, mink, sable, etc., respond to mahogany or fine cedar sawdust as a cleanser.  These may be 
purchased from any furrier.  Place the fur on a table with the hairy side up and rub sawdust in by the handful.  Use plenty of 
sawdust and rub vigorously.  Shake the fur over the table to save the sawdust that fall, as it can be used again.  Turn the fur with 
the hair side down on large pillows according to the size of the garment; beat it well with a switch.  Shake the pillows 
occasionally and continue beating until all the sawdust is removed.  White furs are cleaned in a similar fashion with corn meal.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com


While we're on the subject of furs, I have some ermine that has gone
quite yellow. Is there anything I can do to bring it back to white?



Emma


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Re: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress

2008-07-21 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
For fishnets, try Hobby Lobby, or the Party Store (I think that's the name), or anyplace that sells Hawaiian party stuff.  Even 
Albertsons used to carry it in the summer years ago.  It's Luau Time!  :-)


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 11:08:29 -0600
From: Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ancient Egyptian beaded dress
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

I havent seen any fishnet for quite some time, but I'll look around.
Thanks.

Sylvia 


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[h-cost] New Victorian bodice pattern from the Mantua-Maker!

2008-07-06 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
I wish to announce that I have a new pattern finished!  It is now available for 
pre-orders, to be shipped 7/14/08.
  
1875 - 1890 Brandy City Bodice Pattern

A fashionable everyday bodice.
The bodice may be fitted or in the Blouse Bodice style.  The photos are of the 
blouse front version.
The lower front may be full length, opened or closed.  Or it may be draped up, 
or cut away in several styles.
The back may be pleated, gathered, or shirred.  Two lengths coat style sleeves.
Many historical references and decoration ideas.
Sized 2 - 30, all included.
Price: $22

Front Photo  --  Artwork by Lorina Stephens 

Back Photo  --  Variations Drawing 

To order, please go to http://www.mantua-maker.com/ .  Thank you for looking!

Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com
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Re: [h-cost] Patterns on eBay

2008-07-02 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

Just search eBay for 'Mantua Maker', or try:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=280241030657ssPageName=STRK:MESE:ITih=018

Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com

Do you have a URL for the patterns, Deb? What should we look under?

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
publisher of? books by Lorina Stephens
purveyor of quality custom shower doors by Gary Stephens
Now Available: Shadow Song, by Lorina Stephens
Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina?Stephens
519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org -
http://5riversnews.blogspot.com

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[h-cost] Patterns on eBay

2008-06-30 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
Hello! I've put a few of my patterns on eBay, if anyone wants to get them at a discount. One is at 1/3 the usual price, the 
1825-1830 Day Dress. It is a size Small. I have reworked the pattern to include all sizes 2-30, so I am letting go of my old stock.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com


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[h-cost] New Victorian patterns

2008-06-23 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
Hello!  I would like to announce that I have three new patterns on my website.  All three come in sizes 2 - 30.  You can see them 
at:

http://www.mantua-maker.com/new_victorian_patterns.html

The first is an overskirt called the Camargo Sash Bustle Drapery, for the years 
1868 - 1888.
The second is a bodice named the Mystic Mine Basque, for the years 1875 - 1890.
The third is the You Bet Bodice, for the years 1870 - 1890.

Also, I have reworked my 1825 - 1830 Daydress so that it includes all sizes 
from 2 - 30 in the same pattern.

Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com


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Re: [h-cost] Yuan Dynasty (Chinese/Mongolian) costume?

2008-06-17 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
Plaited is the old term for what we now call Pleated. 
Threads was an informal term for fabric or clothing.


I guessing that the description of that photo was written a *long* time ago, 
and the editor didn't think to update the language.

Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com


I'm trying to recreate a Yuan dynasty outfit for my husband. He's
especially interested in the Mongolian plaited garment (pg. 140 of
5000 years of Chinese Costume). Apparently, it has a broad band made of
plaited threads [...] sewn to the waist. They have a sketch of the
back, I believe, and a picture of a pottery figurine from Jiaozuo, Henan
Province showing the front, sort of.

Does anyone have any more information on this garment? Googling was
spectacularly unsuccessful and I can't find another picture of the
pottery figurine that shows the back.




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[h-cost] London public library

2008-06-14 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

You can search some British libraries online before you go to see what they 
have in there collections.  Here are a couple of links:

British library (some branches in London)  
http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/?func=filefile_name=login-bl-list
VA  National Art Library  http://catalogue.nal.vam.ac.uk/

Museum of London http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/English/Collections/OnlineResources/  and 
http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/English/Collections/1700Today/Dress-fashion.htm  I'm not sure if these can be searched, but they do 
have a large online bookstore.


Costume Museum at Bath  www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/  or http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/  Neither of these are working just now for me 
to get the search link, but I *think* you can search the collection, and I'm sure they have an online bookstore.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  www.mantua-maker.com


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[h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants

2008-05-31 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
Have you looked at The Workwoman's Guide by a Lady?  It was published 
originally in 1838, and republished in 1986 by Opus 
Publications.

On page 110 of my copy is a description (with a tiny pattern elsewhere) of a 
High Full Gown, to open in front ... particularly 
suitable for house-maids, dairy or kitchen maids, chair [char?] and 
washerwomen;   I'm betting there are other descriptions, but 
I'm not finding them at the moment.

Regards,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com

 Does anyone know of any quotes or pictorial sources for what house maids
 or a ladies' maid would be wearing in the 1830s-40s?  I have been asked to
 make servants' dress of this date for historical interpretation, and am
 trying to find a source to replicate which will challenge the black
 gown/white apron look, which our visitors seem to associate with them.

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[h-cost] Questions on Louis XV (1760s) Costuming

2008-05-23 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
 Can anyone point me toward some historically-accurate web links or resources
 for clothing from the 1760s in France, during the reign of Louis XV?

Have a look at http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/18thlinks.htm - she has 
MANY links!  I think you'll find almost everything 
you need.

Regards,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com

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[h-cost] Lace ID Help

2008-05-16 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
  Can anyone help me identify what type of lace is on a bodice circa 
 1900-1906?  You can view a photo enlargement of the lace at:
http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/1900beigebodicelace.jpg

I'm not a lace expert, but I do have a Lace Dictionary published in 1913.  I 
went through the whole book, and the closest I could 
match it to was Crochet Lace, also known as Irish Lace, raised Rose point, 
Point de Trico or Honiton crochet to indicate the 
character of the design more than the technique.  There is more to the entry 
if anyone is interested.

There is a photo of the crochet lace at:  http://www.mantua-maker.com/id24.html
(or, if my sitebuilder gets repaired, at:  
http://www.mantua-maker.com/crochet_lace_photo.html)
Click on the photo for a larger view.

If anybody has a better guess, I'll look up the entry and post it, too.

Regards,
   Deb Salisbury
   The Mantua-Maker
   Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
   Renaissance to Victorian
   www.mantua-maker.com


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[h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes

2008-05-12 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
 Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes? 
 Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!

I haven't heard lately, but Amazon Drygoods used to have a great reputation for 
period shoes.  http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
The Shoe Catalog
Amazon Drygoods has been supplying the footwear need of the entertainment 
industry - films, stage, TV, Opera and ballet - for years. This catalog has 162 
styles of historic reproduction shoes from all periods, in all sizes and colors 
for men, women and children.
THE SHOE CATALOG: $5.00

To receive our catalogs send the correct amount (US funds only) for each 
catalog to:

AMAZON DRYGOODS
411 Brady Street
Davenport, IA 52801-1518 USA
Phone: 1-800-798-7979
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Happy sewing,
Deb

The Mantua-Maker
www.mantua-maker.com
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