Re: [h-cost] Horse Hair Canvas

2007-09-27 Thread Diana Habra
Tori,

I sell hair canvas that is made with goat hair and wool.  You can see it
here:

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?id=317

It is mainly used in tailoring men's suits but may work for your project.

Diana


On 9/27/07, Tori Ruhl [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Does anyone know where one could purchase horsehair canvas?
 Or horsehair felt for that matter.

 Thanks!
 Tori

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RE: [h-cost] last embroidery

2007-08-25 Thread Diana Habra
Bjarne,

Your patience and devotion to these projects amazes me!  It is stunning!

Diana
(whose new love is 18th century)

--
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer
 
Be the change you want to see in the world
--Ghandi
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 11:26 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] last embroidery


Hurray! Now i have compleated all the embroidery for the jacket of the 
silver spangeled suit.
This has ben a lot of work, with moments of dispare and solitude.
10 years ago i baught these flower spangels with the leaves in Beak Street, 
London, and had no idea, i would use it for such a slow and tedious work. I 
am glad i baught them, and really pleased with the result.
Jacket is not sewed finnished yeat, but i just finnished the last embroidery

on the second pocket flap
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] book - Natural Dyes by Cardon

2007-06-16 Thread Diana Habra
 Finally published! ... but the booksellers are still waiting.

 Natural Dyes - sources, tradition, technology, science by Dominique
 Cardon ISBN: 190498200x

 http://www.archetype.co.uk/ click on 'recently published'

Looks like a cool book but $170??!!  Yikes!

Diana

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Everything for the Costumer

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RE: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening

2007-06-05 Thread Diana Habra
I second the hair canvas suggestion.  I use it to stiffen all of my bodices
and sleeves (if they need it).  It is lightweight, gives a natural-looking
stiffness, and breathes well.

Diana

P.S. I will be carrying it soon if you want to check back on my website in a
few weeks.

--
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer
 
Be the change you want to see in the world
--Ghandi
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of michaela de bruce
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 1:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening

 Is buckram washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add some
 stiffness to the collar?

Buckram; never get it wet! I just recently managed to reshape my
Stickelchen (headdress like Anne of Cleves wore) after it was deformed
from water from the hoses putting out our housefire.  It has still
stretched but most of the shape is fine. But I also have a layer of
felt and silk over mine so fine ripples can't really be noticed.

I would recommend hair canvas. It's possibly called horse hair canvas
in places but it's not relaly horse hair.. at least not only... It's a
mottled grey colour and is reasonably easy to get. It's light weight
and washable. After washing it loses a little stiffness but it sound
slike it will still be quite ideal for a light linen.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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[h-cost] Speaking of Williamsburg....

2007-05-01 Thread Diana Habra
I was there recently and had the pleasure of meeting with Linda Baumgarten,
the curator of clothing at textiles at Williamsburg.  She actually
volunteered this information (although I was planning to ask anyway) and I
think people on this list might be interested:

There WILL be a reprint of Costume Close-Up and I think she indicated that
it will happen within about a year.

Sorry to those folks who are trying to get upwards of $200 for it on EBAY
but those of us in the know don't need to pay that.

So if you wanted a copy but didn't get one on the first go-around, you will
have another chance!

Diana

--
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Everything for the Costumer
 
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[h-cost] Need Help

2007-01-25 Thread Diana Habra
Hello list,

Does anyone out there have a link to color descriptions that they could
share?  

I am looking to find out what the color dove gray really is.  I thought I
knew but now I am not so sure.  

Is it a light gray with a blue tone or light gray with a pinkish-brown tone
(kind of closer to taupe)?  Also, which color would you most likely want to
use for Victorian costuming and/or men's suits?

Thanks!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] As a courtesy .. .. ..

2007-01-22 Thread Diana Habra


 so.

 could somebody please tel those of us in the real(ish) world what it
 means???

 debbie

She's letting people know that she has changed her SCA name.

And I was sorta hoping she would come forth and apologize for spamming the
various lists with this announcement.  My advice is:

NEVER e-mail your whole address book without double-checking :~)

Diana

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Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
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Re: [h-cost] As a courtesy .. .. ..

2007-01-21 Thread Diana Habra
With all due respect, your announcement is off-topic.  Let's stick to
costuming-related items, please :~)

Diana


 Unto my friends and all the noble and gentle folk to whom this message
 comes, Greeting and Salutation.

 Let it be known amongst the Land, that as of this day 20 Ianuarii , I,
 until now known as Norayn of The Wood, from the great lands of the Kingdom
 of Atlantia ,shall henceforth be known as Vederun (Frederun),in conformity
 with the rules and usages of the Current Middle Ages.


 Vrederun
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Re: [h-cost] Looking For Fabric Info

2007-01-19 Thread Diana Habra
To me, the colors and overall look of the pattern is fine but looking
closely at the weave pattern, it looks very modern.

Diana




 I was wondering if the amazingly knowledgable folks on this list could
 give me some feedback on what eras a woolen fabric would be appropriate
 for? I have a picture of it posted at my LiveJournal for those interested
 in taking a look. It's wool, the colors are good for most eras, and the
 slightly open twill is good for most of the eras I'd want to make. I'm
 just not sure about the overall look of the fabric. Opinions?

 http://seamstrix.livejournal.com/

 Karen
 Seamstrix
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RE: [h-cost] Schaube

2007-01-05 Thread Diana Habra

Just my 2 cents

It seems to me that the term schaube has the same problem as the term coat
or jacket in modern terms.  We call all jackets the same thing but it does
not indicate what style they are (long, short, leather, wool, nylon, etc.)  

So perhaps a schaube to them was just a term for a coat and using our
modern context, we are trying to differentiate the styles by finding
different words for them.  But in period there was really only one term for
them.

I liken this issue to one I had when trying to differentiate different
styles of renaissance German lady's dresses.  In period they would have just
called them dresses or rocks even though they had different features.  

Diana 

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Re: [h-cost] German 1830's-40's lower classes?

2006-12-10 Thread Diana Habra

 Any body know where I can look for images of German (or surrounding areas)
 lower to middle classes -- also military and mental wards?  Doing a
 production of Woyzeck by Beuchner (died 1836) and the director would
 like
 to use this time frame but we seem to find mostly upper class.

Have you tried looking at the paintings of Bruegel?  He painted some
lovely peasant scenes.  I think he is Dutch but it is in the surrounding
area.  Also, the woodcuts of Durer might have some ideas for you also (he
was German).

Good luck!

Diana

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Everything for the Costumer

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Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again

2006-11-25 Thread Diana Habra

 Hi,
 I would like to have your oppinions about the fitting of the stays on my
 lady.
 My lady wich also sew for herself, says they fit perfect, but i  am not
 sattisfied.
 When you look at the profile picture, you clearly see that the stays are
 two
 big at the tip of the breast.. I would remake it, by reducing the front
 piece at the curved sides at the armhole, this would push in the front a
 little more.
 Am i wrong?
 Please take a look its here:
 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm

Bjarne,

I agree with you that the top of the corset seems too big.  However, some
ladies have different ideas on how tight they want their corset to fit. 
Perhaps she doesn't want it to be too tight?

It is always hard to balance what people want and what is accurate when we
sew for others.

Maybe tell her what you think and ask her why she doesn't feel that it is
too big in front?

Good luck! The project so far looks lovely.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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Re: [h-cost] dress type

2006-11-12 Thread Diana Habra

 Hi,
 This is excactly what there are not. No patterns of such a dress.
 Because the dress only consist of one skirt, i wonder how the skirt
would be attached to the bodice.
 Could it be that the whole front skirt was put to some tape ties, where it
 would be attached to the back of the skirt at the middle of the bodice,
 and
 then the pointed bodice would be pinned in the front over the skirt?
 What i would be very interrested in was how the cut would have ben like in
 the back, perhaps the fourreau style or the mantua style with sewn down
 pleats?

I looked through What clothes reveal and I saw several examples
(especially in paintings) of dresses with only one skirt.  But they would
only show one angle of the dress so it is hard to tell where the gown
opening was and whether the skirt attached to the bodice or not.

It looks like the bodice does not close in the front with this type of
dress.  And I still think that the skirt is attached all the way around. 
The pleats need to be nice and neat for this style and you could not
achieve that if the skirt is separate.

 It is strange that all costume historians leaved this type out, because it
 surely was very popular, also in Denmark

 Besides its not as much fabric consuming as a francaise is or anglaise for
 that matter, because it only has one skirt.
 Bjarne

 - Original Message -
 From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 2:20 PM
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type


 At 13:00 12/11/2006, you wrote:
I have seen this dress.  In the original movie, The
King And I, Anna is wearing one during the State
Dinner seen when she is dancung with Yul Brenner.

--- Diana Habra [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
   I have finally found a propper picture to show.
  This is a painting of the
   view over the thames. Its from the mid century.
  You can clearly see that
   the
   ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in
  the back. I have seen
   this type of dress in many danish paintings two,
  yeat this type of dress
   is
   never spoken of in any history books.
   So i ask you!
   Please take a look at this painting wich i
  uploaded, it is cropped just to
   show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so
  its not the best
   quality.
   What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt,
  or is the skirt
   attached
   to the bodice?
   I am so curious to hear what you think!
  
   http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm
 
  To me it looks like a version of the Anglaise
  style dress.  Or am I
  missing something?
 
  If they are Anglaise dresses, then the skirt is
  attached to the bodice,
  they close in the front with small straight pins,
  and the bottom of the
  bodice comes to a point in the front and back.  The
  skirt is also pleated
  to the bodice all the way around.
 
  Hope that helps!

 This is taken from a painting by Canaletto in 1747. It's one of his
 London
 from the Thames paintings. Here is the full painting.

 http://www.abcgallery.com/C/canaletto/canaletto31.html (I hope).

 Are there dresses like this in Fitting and Proper, or Costume
 Close-up, or Costume in Detail, or Historic Fashion in Detail? (the
 18th century one.) I'm away from my books and can't check right now.

 Suzi

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Re: [h-cost] dress type

2006-11-11 Thread Diana Habra

 I have finally found a propper picture to show. This is a painting of the
 view over the thames. Its from the mid century. You can clearly see that
 the
 ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in the back. I have seen
 this type of dress in many danish paintings two, yeat this type of dress
 is
 never spoken of in any history books.
 So i ask you!
 Please take a look at this painting wich i uploaded, it is cropped just to
 show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so its not the best
 quality.
 What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt, or is the skirt
 attached
 to the bodice?
 I am so curious to hear what you think!

 http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm

To me it looks like a version of the Anglaise style dress.  Or am I
missing something?

If they are Anglaise dresses, then the skirt is attached to the bodice,
they close in the front with small straight pins, and the bottom of the
bodice comes to a point in the front and back.  The skirt is also pleated
to the bodice all the way around.

Hope that helps!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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Re: [h-cost] help - velveteen colour running

2006-06-25 Thread Diana Habra

 Thanks for all the hints - I might try this one first. Any type of
 vinegar? I've got both white and apple cider.
 Cheers, Aylwen


Usually one would use white vinegar.  But I suppose cider vinegar would
work in a pinch

Diana


 Diana Habra wrote:

I need to fix a red cloak that keeps rubbing off its colour all over the
linen shirt. It has red velveteen inside and black velveteen outside and
is finished, ready to wear. It was pre-washed before being made.
Any help would be appreciated, Aylwen



You can try a vinegar rinse in the wash machine (1 cup does the trick, I
think).  Vinegar will help set the dye.  But try a small area first to
make sure it doesn't do something funky to the color.

Good luck!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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Re: [h-cost] help - velveteen colour running

2006-06-23 Thread Diana Habra

 I need to fix a red cloak that keeps rubbing off its colour all over the
 linen shirt. It has red velveteen inside and black velveteen outside and
 is finished, ready to wear. It was pre-washed before being made.
 Any help would be appreciated, Aylwen

You can try a vinegar rinse in the wash machine (1 cup does the trick, I
think).  Vinegar will help set the dye.  But try a small area first to
make sure it doesn't do something funky to the color.

Good luck!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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[h-cost] Question for the list

2006-06-20 Thread Diana Habra
Hello everyone,

I may have found some honest-to-goodness 100% silk velvet at one of my
suppliers.  It is a white-ish color and would be of limited quantity (less
than 35 yards available).

I don't know how much it would cost butI would like to ask how much
people would be willing to pay for 100% silk velvet if they could get it.

I am asking not because I want to charge as much as possible for it (I
have a standard markup formula) but I am asking becuase it would cost ME a
lot to order it and I only want to do so if people would be willing to buy
it.

So please give me your feedback and if it is something people want and I
can sell it for a price they would pay, I will order some and make it
available to you :~

Thanks so much!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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RE: [h-cost] Question for the list

2006-06-20 Thread Diana Habra

 Do you think it would be dye-able?

If it is 100% silk, yes.  *Very* dyeable ;~

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
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Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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Re: [h-cost] book of interest on dyes

2006-06-13 Thread Diana Habra

 This book is being offered at a very good pre-order discount by Amazon..
 $81.90 (list price $130).

 The book is due out next month (July 30): 500 pages, 560 Illustrations. I
 pre-ordered a copy.

 Beth

Beth, you are EVIL!!  I have dabbled in natural dyeing and this book
sounds absolutely divine!  I ordered a copy, too.  How could I not order
one when it is $50 off and has free shipping?!

Guess I will have to work some overtime...sigh

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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Re: [h-cost] When the fabric shop employee asks So what are youmaking with ...

2006-06-09 Thread Diana Habra
I see no reason for the customer to act rudely
 to
 me when I ask but sometimes they do anyhow.  Curt, sarcastic comebacks
 are
 not called for in my opinion.Why do salespeople have to be treated
 as
 if they are just cogs in the corporate machine (even though I feel that
 way often)?

 Sylrog


 like I said only use such answers if they are being rude enough to make it
 blatantly obvious that they are not interested (e.g. instead of standing
 there and paying attention to you while you answer their question turning
 away and doing something else or [something I've only encountered once]
 actually starting a conversation with another employee before you've
 finished answering) because if they are being rude a bit of a shock might
 make them aware of their own behaviour and perhaps make them less rude to
 the next customer.

Ya know, I keep hoping that things like that will actually work but they
usually don't.  Being rude to someone does not make them realize that they
were rude to you in the first place.

I agree with Sylvia that you shouldn't be rude or curt with someone just
because you don't like the fabric store that they work in.

And if they are being rude, then say Your service hasn't been very good
and I don't feel like telling you what I am going to make. Or if they are
just asking because they are told to, you can always just say a
historical outfit or anime costume or the like.  If they don't care,
they won't ask further.  If they are truly interested, they will ask more
questions and you can be more specific and enthusiastic.

Just my pennies worth,

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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Re: [h-cost] Another Hancock's closing

2006-06-02 Thread Diana Habra

 Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
 The good news is that Hancock Fabrics at 7900 Florin Road in Sacramento
 CA has everything marked off at least 30%. The bad news is that the sale
 is because they are closing up the store.
 Julie wrote:
 The Hancock Fabrics in
 Bremerton, Washington (on Wheaton Way) is also closing, and also has
 everything currently at 30% off.
 The Hancock Fabrics near 85th and Greenwood in Seattle is also closing.

 I wonder what's going on?  I've had fairly good luck finding nice wools at
 Hancock in the winter.

Colleen,

If you need nice wools, please check out my website:

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net

My wool flannels are supplied by the same people that supplied Hancocks. 
And I try to keep my prices reasonable.  I also will do special orders. 
Not being able to find good fabrics is why I started my fabric business
:~

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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[h-cost] Re: Silk velvet...a question.....

2006-05-05 Thread Diana Habra

Since we are talking about silk velvet.

...If I can find it and offer it for sale, how much are you willing to pay
per yard for it?  And remember that it will have at least 3 times as much
silk in it as a dupioni or taffeta.

You can send responses directly to me at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thanks for helping me to know my audience better :~

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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Re: [h-cost] Fabric Resources for 18th c.

2006-04-28 Thread Diana Habra

 It looks like I will be helping a local community theater costume
 Moliere's The Miser.  I've worked with this director once before, he
 would like a period look and respects my attempts to be as authentic as
 possible for the chosen era (18thC)  That being said, since I will be
 relying on family members of the cast for some of the costume
 construction I will probably be resorting to some of Butterick's
 patterns (#4315 4317) to get these made.

 So, I would like to try to get the fabric as authentic as possible.
  My 'eye' however is more trained for 16th C and earlier.  Does anyone
 have suggestions for a couple of books I could use to browse through to
 get a feel for fabrics and patterns for this era?

I just picked up the book Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in
the 18th Century and it has page after page of paintings and real
clothing from the time period.  It was put out by the Met and (this is the
best part) has multiple views of some outfits.  Surprisingly it was only
$30 but you may also be able to borrow a copy or get it through
interlibrary loan.

The Kyoto costume book (Fashion: The Collection of the Kyoto Costume
Institute) also has many examples of real clothing from that time period. 
And I think that they are having a 25th anniversary sale right now so all
the books are even more reasonably priced than normal.  If you can borrow
or buy this book, it is a great fashion reference for 18th century through
the present.

Good luck with your project!

Diana

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Everything for the Costumer

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Re: [h-cost] Fabric Resources for 18th c.

2006-04-28 Thread Diana Habra


 In a message dated 4/28/2006 12:44:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Surprisingly it was only
 $30 but you may also be able to borrow a  copy or get it through
 interlibrary loan.



 Less than $14 on Amazon!


Did ya *HAVE* to tell me that?


Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Fabric Resources for 18th c.

2006-04-28 Thread Diana Habra

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 In a message dated 4/28/2006 12:44:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Surprisingly it was only
 $30 but you may also be able to borrow a  copy or get it through
 interlibrary loan.



 Less than $14 on Amazon!

 Ann Wass

 Dangerous Liaisons : Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century
 (Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications)


 Is there a good selection of men's clothing in this book, or is it
 strictly women's gowns?

There are both men's and women's.  I don't have it in front of me right
now but I know that there was at least 30% men's stuff

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen/dyed linen

2006-04-22 Thread Diana Habra

 I've read all the posts about the mouldy linen but what about a white
 linen
 that dye has bled into?  I have heavy white linen and it has blue black
 stains on it from another fabric that was touching it.

Rit makes something called color remover.  I haven't used it myself but
it may help your linen.

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight to an actress

2006-04-10 Thread Diana Habra

 Recently we costumed for the play A Little Princess.  One of the
 characters is a young girl with a bit of a weight problem.  She was
 superbly portrayed by a rather thin young girl.  We stuffed a bodystocking
 with fiberfill at first during rehearsals but it was so hot she nearly
 passed out and became very flushed.  So we tried having her wear three
 cotton teeshirts but that didn't work too well either.  We finally just
 used the fiberfill  stuffed her blouse, a fitted Victorian high-collared
 style, after she put it on to fill out the necessary areas.  That didn't
 work really either, because after every scene we had to readjust the
 fiberfill because it kept shifting  even falling out below the skirt.
 She left puff-bunnies all over backstage but fortunately none fell out on
 stage --although in one of the final scenes she suddenly developed a
 hernia on her left side.

   Please --we may do this play again for the lower schools.  Can anyone
 give us any ideas on making a Mrs. Doubtfire-type removable bodyshape
 suit on a low budget that won't cause the young actress to expire with
 heat?

   Thanks for any  all suggestions.

   Blessings,
   Susannah


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Re: [h-cost] 16th century term for cartridge pleats

2006-04-09 Thread Diana Habra

 Hiya everyone,
 I just read a bit of info that says the term cartridge pleats has it's
 roots
 in the late 19th century so what is the correct term for the 16th century.
 I
 know it was gauging in the mid 19th century but do we have a record of
 what
 it was called prior to that?

Have you tried looking at the Juan de Alcega book?  There might be a clue
in there.

But my guess is that trying to name pleats is like trying to name
historical dress styles.  What we call a Cranach dress or a gothic
fitted dress was most likely just called a dress at the time it was
worn.

Diana

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[h-cost] Visiting Washington DC soon....

2006-04-05 Thread Diana Habra
Hello all,

I will be traveling to Washington DC soon and wanted to hear
recommendations from folks on the list about what to see.  My interests
are existing costumes from Europe 1100-1890 and paintings of the
Renaissance  Baroque periods.

Thanks!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII movie question

2006-04-05 Thread Diana Habra

 Hey all,

 I am thinking of getting a movie, A Man For All Seasons
 (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060665/), to watch while I am working on my
 Henrician gown. Our Henry VIII faires are often set during the marriage
 question. But I have never seen the movie. Is it worth getting? How is the
 storyline? How good/bad are the costumes? Is my money better spent on a
 different movie of a similar time frame?

One of my early favorites is Anne of the Thousand Days.  The costumes
are pretty good, the story is entertaining if it isn't strictly true.

This has been a favorite of mine for years.  Then I tried to watch A Man
for All Seasons and didn't like it much.

Another great Tudor style movie is Lady Jane.  AWESOME costumes if not a
little later than you are portraying.  Early Helena Bonham Carter and Cary
Elwes.  Also has Patrick Stewart.

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] New book on medieval braid

2006-03-22 Thread Diana Habra

  From another list I use

 Suzi

COOL!  Thanks for sharing :~  You people are so evil

Diana


 ADVANCE NOTIFICATION

 Tak v Bowes Departed: A 15th Century Braiding Manual Examined
 by Elizabeth Benns and Gina Barrett

 Tak v bowes departed is an in-depth study of Article 4, British
 Library Manuscript Harley 2320. This treatise, which dates to the
 fifteenth century, gives instructions for making forty different
 braids of varying complexity.

 Braids such as these were used for a variety of purposes during the
 medieval period; lacing clothes, purse strings, decorative trim and
 seal tags. This book discusses the background of the original
 manuscript; who may have owned it, how it was made, and compares the
 spelling and language with other similar documents.

 Tak v bowes departed concludes with modern instructions to make each
 of the braids; original errors have been corrected and noted, and
 each braid is clearly illustrated for reference. The instructions are
 provided as both text and diagrams, and include a detailed overview
 of the technique of 'fingerloop braiding' for those new to this skill.


 For further information and to order your advance copy, visit
 http://www.takvbowes.co.ukhttp://www.takvbowes.co.uk
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Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term

2006-03-18 Thread Diana Habra

 Has anyone run across a reference to some sort of early 19th-century
 tool for pinking fabric called an arrache-pièce à dents?  (I'm not sure
 the accents will come through in the email you receive, but I tried.
 The only modern reference I've found to this terms to a tool called a
 gear puller in English, and this is certainly not that.)  If so can
 you point me to any more info?

As near as I can translate it (from my 4+ years of high school french) the
literal translation is a piece puller with teeth.  So your modern
reference is very close to the french term.

Could it be like the antique pinking tools you can see on EBay where you
turn a crank and run the fabric through to pink the edge?

Hope that helps...

diana

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Re: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified

2006-02-26 Thread Diana Habra

 Okay, the cool stuff everyone has been looking forward
 to: Underwear Mythbusting.

Kathy,

I finally was able to look at the pictures on Bella's website and see what
you were talking about in your post.  How totally cool that you were able
to find out this info for yourself but also share it with us!  Thanks!

And I will certainly buy your book when it comes out ;~

Diana

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RE: [h-cost]Redwork,

2006-02-22 Thread Diana Habra

 Why does the painting have Maria Regina written on it?
 Just curious, Anne

 http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html


That's a really good question!! Anybody know?

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth

2006-02-21 Thread Diana Habra

 Re the perception of color in these portraits:
 For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed
 textiles
 of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some
 chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate
 over a period of time.  In the present world, I have seen color changes on
 bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go entirely
 from one color to another.
 For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C, that
 seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span.  My daughters pale blue
 taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose.  I
 have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an interesting
 shade of lavender.

 In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on the
 canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'?

I would say yes.  Paint colors change, fabric colors change and/or fade. 
I have some wool floss that was dyed with period dyes and it has faded
after only 10 years.

As for your personal fabrics, I have heard that acetate changes colors
after many years.  I'm not sure how rayon behaves but maybe it is similar.

The more likely reason for the Princess Elizabeth painting changes is that
there were copies made.  I have personally seen a copy of the famous
Eleanora of Toledo wedding dress painting in Sacramento, California at a
small museum.  It is one of 4 copies of the painting and was copied close
to the time it was originally painted.

I'm not sure why painters would have made more than one copy of a
portrait, but they did.

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric

2006-02-21 Thread Diana Habra

 After a chilly first night at Estrella this year, I was able to purchase
 a pair of Merino wool socks at merchants row to keep my tootsies warm
 for the following nights.  They are soft and not at all itchy.  I began
 to think how lovely it would be to have an entire nightie made from such
 a wool.  I have started looking on the internet and haven't come up with
 much.  Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really
 soft and not itchy?

 Thanks,

 Sg

Saragrace,

Do you have a specific color in mind?  I have a butter yellow cashmere
wool that is very soft:

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?id=115

but my softest is a purple cashmere wool that feels more like fleece than
wool:

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?id=52

I would be happy to send you swatches if you like either one or both. 
Just send me your address again and I can get those out to you tomorrow.

Cheers,

Diana



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Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth

2006-02-20 Thread Diana Habra

 When did you see it in the Portrait Gallery? I was in England in 2002, and
 saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange to
 it
 at all.
 The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base cut and
 voided velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is gold
 thread (looks distinctly metallic).
 --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there

Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too.

But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
discovered that her chemise had redwork on the cuffs!  I hadn't heard of
redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't have
enough detail to show it.   Very cool!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question

2006-02-18 Thread Diana Habra

 Hi,

 Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
 And it got a shokking salmon pink.
 http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
 I wonder if this would be right for that period.

 I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.

That sounds like madder root.

 It is a root that gives orange to red colour and was used in medieval
 times.
 And then put in water with a little ammonia sinse orange is really not a
 colour for me.
 But I am not totally sure if this is much better :-\ .
 I would love to hear other opinions.

Which chemical mordant did you use?  Mordants are things like alum,
nickel, iron, and I forget the last one.  You put the mordant into the dye
bath and each chemical gives a different shade of red-orange.  You can
also pre-treat the cloth with a bath of the mordant and then dye it
separately.

You can look up which one gives a more red color and try re-dying it with
that.  There are some good books about natural dyes that you can either
order or find in your library.  And there are some places online that sell
the dye items and mordants that you would need.  Sorry I can't tell you
any specific books or websitesI haven't done natural dyeing in years!

And I agree that the orange isn't a bad color for you.

Diana

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RE: [h-cost] colonial

2006-02-17 Thread Diana Habra

 Or maybe, the underskirt opposite of the main body of the dress, so if the
 dress is light with dark flowers, make the underskirt dark with light
 flowers.
 Sharon

Wow...I hadn't thought of that and it would probably work really well! 
Thanks for the idea :~

Diana

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RE: [h-cost] colonial

2006-02-16 Thread Diana Habra

 Perhaps a very faint hint of color of purple/ blue (periwinkle?) for the
 dress material with eggshell white bows and underskirt.
 If you have the split, were you thinking of a quilted underskirt or
 leaving
 it plan?

For a split skirt, I would decorate the underskirt or make it a different
color.  I was thinking of making a quilted underskirt but it may just be a
petticoat that I can use later with a pet-en-l'air jacket or something
like that.

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] colonial

2006-02-15 Thread Diana Habra

 Holy Crapola, that dress is beautiful, but really badly mounted.  So I
 wouldn't trust all of their information, especially about the gown meeting
 edge to edge at the centrefront.  I wish they had taken the time to mount
 the dress proprely, then you would be able to see all it's glory in the
 photos...they are great photos, I'm bummed ;-(

 If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time
 period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period, also Louisbourg
 National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time
 period
 a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details.
 Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact
 them for a copy.

 For those who are interested in this era, come join me and a few hundred
 others at Louisbourg's Grande Encampment this year!

 Kelly/estela
 - Original Message -
 From: Diana Habra [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 2:11 AM
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial



 Ooo...look what I found.
 http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
 De

 I LOVE this website!  I know that they show the details to help sell the
 clothing but it is AWESOME for us historical costumers that may not ever
 get to study garments like these in person.

 Thanks so much for sharing!  I am trying to design my wedding gown which
 will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can
 about construction techniques.  This new colonial dress will be a big
 help.

 Diana

 www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
 Everything for the Costumer

 Become the change you want to see in the world.
 --Ghandi

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RE: [h-cost] colonial

2006-02-15 Thread Diana Habra

 Oooo wedding dress!:) What color?
 De

Well, that has been the hardest part.  I want to do a white-ish color
white, cream, chanpagne, etc.) but my accent color is a deep purple-blue. 
I originally intended to make it white with the blue accents but the
contrast is so big!  I am still trying to figure out how to do it.

I am very inspired by this painting:

http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?32697+0+0

But I also like the split-skirt style like the garment just posted. 
Sighso many ideas and I only get to choose one!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] colonial

2006-02-15 Thread Diana Habra

 Holy Crapola, that dress is beautiful, but really badly mounted.  So I
 wouldn't trust all of their information, especially about the gown meeting
 edge to edge at the centrefront.  I wish they had taken the time to mount
 the dress proprely, then you would be able to see all it's glory in the
 photos...they are great photos, I'm bummed ;-(

Sorry, I hit send accidently!


If you think that one is mounted badly, check this one out:

http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_431.htm

I LOVE this jacket, but it looks so awful there!

 If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time
 period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period,

I have the book but I don't remember many construction pictures in it. 
And I work much better from pictures than somebody's description.  I will
take a look at it again now that I know more about the period.

also Louisbourg
 National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time
 period
 a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details.
 Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact
 them for a copy.

Thanks, I will check it out.

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] colonial

2006-02-15 Thread Diana Habra

 Holy Crapola, that dress is beautiful, but really badly mounted.  So I
 wouldn't trust all of their information, especially about the gown meeting
 edge to edge at the centrefront.  I wish they had taken the time to mount
 the dress proprely, then you would be able to see all it's glory in the
 photos...they are great photos, I'm bummed ;-(

Sorry about the other post, I hit send accidently :~


If you think the mounting was bad for that one, check this one out:

http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_431.htm

I LOVE this jacket, but it looks so awful there!

 If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time
 period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period,

I have it but I don't remember too many pictures with construction
details.  Maybe I will have to look at it again.

also Louisbourg
 National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time
 period
 a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details.
 Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact
 them for a copy.

Thanks!  I will look into that.  Costume Close-Up has been helpful for
construction information but they only have limited close-ups and usually
only one per garment.  But every little bit helps!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] colonial

2006-02-14 Thread Diana Habra

 Ooo...look what I found.
 http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
 De

I LOVE this website!  I know that they show the details to help sell the
clothing but it is AWESOME for us historical costumers that may not ever
get to study garments like these in person.

Thanks so much for sharing!  I am trying to design my wedding gown which
will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can
about construction techniques.  This new colonial dress will be a big
help.

Diana

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Everything for the Costumer

Become the change you want to see in the world.
--Ghandi

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Re: [h-cost] my first doll

2006-02-13 Thread Diana Habra

 Hi,
 Couldnt waite for my dolls i ordered will be released, so i baught 1 Emme
 doll at ebay:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/Emme-Effervescence-Doll_W0QQitemZ5665834380QQcategoryZ11698QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Being a plus-sized woman myself, I respect Emme, but gosh those dolls are
expensive!

 Why is it i want to make something like Dangerous Liasions

I am sure it will look wonderfulas always ;~

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] pinker alert

2006-02-09 Thread Diana Habra

 Ah alas, these are for paper Only. I have a friend that uses a rotary
 cutter
 that comes with a variety of blades for fancy cuts.


I bought a wavy rotary cutter to use for 18th c. edging.  I haven't used
it on a whole outfit but the inital testing worked well.

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Wool

2006-02-02 Thread Diana Habra

 I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is
 there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys
 pre-wash wool?

I always pre-wash my wool.  As someone said, it washes out any chemicals
used in processing and it leaves you the *option* of washing it again.

Honestly, I have never had to wash an entire garment that I have made in
my 15-odd years of sewing historical costumes.  Spot cleaning works fine
or putting my hem in the bathtub ;~

 It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly
 period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century
 pirate coat out of it.

Also, washing a wool gabardine will shrink it and thicken it up a bit so
it will be less modern-looking.  Every little bit helps!

Diana

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Become the change you want to see in the world.
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Re: [h-cost] What's it called?

2006-01-21 Thread Diana Habra

 http://www.newadvent.org/images/04351aax.jpg
 that little square thing at the top edge? What is that called?

I don't know what it is called, but it sure looks like there was another
one on the other side that may have fallen off (look above the chevron
square, third to left of the first tab).

Someone mentioned that the tab or tabs came across the chest to hold
the cloak on.  I agree with this idea.  I think even modern priests have
the same setup on their altar cloaks.

HTH,

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Taffeta question again...

2006-01-16 Thread Diana Habra


 1 oz = 7.54 mommes so...
 4 oz = 30.2 mommes
 5.3 oz = 40.0 mommes

Kimiko,

Thanks for the translation from ounces to mommes!  I had been looking for
a way to convert them...

Diana

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[h-cost] Taffeta question again...

2006-01-13 Thread Diana Habra
Hello everyone,

For those of you who had input on my silk taffeta question, I have another
question related to the first one:

When you buy your taffeta, what weight do you look for?

I found 2.25 oz. silk taffeta for $16.98/yard (denverfabrics.com)
I found 4 oz. silk taffeta for $22.00/yard (distinctivefabrics.com)
I found ? weight silk taffeta (labeled lightweight) for $11.00/yard
(fashionfabricsclub.com)
I found ? weight silk taffeta for $30.99/yard (fabrics.net)

The weight silk I would buy would be the 4 oz. kind and my supplier has
even heavier silk taffeta (5.30 oz.) but I don't know the cost yet.

Is 4 oz. considered heavy enough for what we do?  Or is 5.30 oz. preferable?

Thanks!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Stolen Items-question

2006-01-09 Thread Diana Habra
I was thinking about Toni Whyte's costume and jewelry being stolen and it
is a terrible thing to have happen.  It has been cross-posted to almost
every list I am on so the word is definitely getting out.

My question iswhat is one supposed to do if they find an item on ebay
or for sale somewhere?  How can the item be recovered safely and who are
you supposed to tell?

I am sure someone out there has had experience with this--please share
your knowledge!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source

2006-01-04 Thread Diana Habra

 These are the only two images I found online; not so detailed though:

 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-525.jpg

 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-526.jpg

 I'm thinking you're going to have to grab yourself a copy of the movie; I
 made the blue gown in 2004 and the movie was invaluable for the detailing.

Well, if people on this list barely remember that she wore a gold dress
and it is difficult to find pictures of it, I wouldn't worry about copying
it exactly.  Who will know if it is a good reproduction or not?

Just a thought

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Hello-new member

2006-01-03 Thread Diana Habra
Rebecca,

I have a fabric website specifically for people making historical costumes.

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/

I carry wool, silk, linen, and some cottons.  For a hot summer and
historical accuaracy, I recommend linens for shirts, pants, and maybe a
doublet.  Lightweight wool is even better for a doublet and can also be
used for pants.  Most people think wool is too warm but it breathes so it
isn't that bad if you get a lightweight kind.  And it is more historically
accurate than cotton.  Silk would be accuarate as well, but if he is going
to be outside in hot weather, silk is impractical because it will get
sweat (salt) stains.  You could use it as a trim fabric, though.

Someone mentioned Margo's patterns.  They are awesome and heavily
researched and tested (I know her personally).  I recommend them also.

And someone else said to use cotton for his outfit.  I would recommend
linen over than cotton because it is sturdy and more accurate.  I also
carry a cotton/linen blend that is good because it isn't as expensive as
pure linen but it has a better look than 100% cotton.  I also can order
other colors than the ones listed on the website so if you are looking for
a specific color, let me know and I will see if it is available.

Other websites you can check for fabrics are www.fabrics.com, 
www.denverfabrics.com, and www.fashionfabricsclub.com

I am a costumer myself so I will be happy to answer any construction or
other questions you may have!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Hello-new member

2006-01-03 Thread Diana Habra
I am SOOO sorry!  That was supposed to be private!

Diana


 Rebecca,

 I have a fabric website specifically for people making historical
 costumes.

 http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/

 I carry wool, silk, linen, and some cottons.  For a hot summer and
 historical accuaracy, I recommend linens for shirts, pants, and maybe a
 doublet.  Lightweight wool is even better for a doublet and can also be
 used for pants.  Most people think wool is too warm but it breathes so it
 isn't that bad if you get a lightweight kind.  And it is more historically
 accurate than cotton.  Silk would be accuarate as well, but if he is going
 to be outside in hot weather, silk is impractical because it will get
 sweat (salt) stains.  You could use it as a trim fabric, though.

 Someone mentioned Margo's patterns.  They are awesome and heavily
 researched and tested (I know her personally).  I recommend them also.

 And someone else said to use cotton for his outfit.  I would recommend
 linen over than cotton because it is sturdy and more accurate.  I also
 carry a cotton/linen blend that is good because it isn't as expensive as
 pure linen but it has a better look than 100% cotton.  I also can order
 other colors than the ones listed on the website so if you are looking for
 a specific color, let me know and I will see if it is available.

 Other websites you can check for fabrics are www.fabrics.com,
 www.denverfabrics.com, and www.fashionfabricsclub.com

 I am a costumer myself so I will be happy to answer any construction or
 other questions you may have!

 Diana

 www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
 Everything for the Costumer

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Re: [h-cost] 18th 19th Century corset questions

2005-12-04 Thread Diana Habra

 We went to Phoenix Art Museum yesterday to see their history of lingerie
 exhibit.  They have an early American (1780) corset on display that has
 a feature I have a question about.  The corset laces up the back, but
 across the front (now only on the point mostly) there are some very fine
 cords laced at very close distances (~3 mm) to one another.  You can see
 that they extended all the way up the front at one time.  The cord is a
 little thicker than upholstery thread and has been drawn through the
 fabric with a needle.  The holes are not reinforced in anyway so I
 assume it didn't take much stress.

Maybe the lady did it because she got pregnant and needed more room. 
Then she stitched it back together afterward?  Just a guess...

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] ironing

2005-11-30 Thread Diana Habra

 My problem with the Rowenta is that they 'spit' after a while.  When
 behaving Well, it is still my favorite for long distance ironing.
 Presently, I am enjoying the Sunbeam...especially since I discovered how
 to
 use the self -cleaning mode.  I can even get the 'burst of steam' which
 was
 also a best feature with the Rowenta.

I love how my Rowenta presses (and the steam is great) but the spitting
is SOOO annoying!  I went to press out my tablecloth yesterday and there
was water everywhere!!  This is my second one and I can't recommend them. 
I might just go get me a Sunbeam even though my iron isn't dead yet
because I am tired of the problems.

And it seems like an iron would be such a simple device!! Who knew?

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Regency question

2005-11-13 Thread Diana Habra



 Diana Habra wrote:
Day dress
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_537.htm
 
 Wow!  I got lost on this site for about an hour.  And 100 pages of
 printer

 Yes, isn't that a wonderful site! I also found this one quite helpful:
 http://demode.tweedlebop.com/realvict/

The main thing that I liked about the site was that it had *many* detailed
pictures of the same garment.  Often an extant garment will be pictured
but usually only the whole front (and maybe the back) will be shown.  And
I haven't seen any of the museum sites offer a look at a gown or outfit
unfastened so that we can see how it really works.  That was what I liked
the most :~

 Seeing the construction details are marvelous. One thing I did find
 challenging about these extant gown sites, though: very often they
 display the clothes on modern mannequins or dress forms. It gives one an
 improper impression of how the gown should hang, usually because the
 bust is lower and shaped differently than a corseted figure. Just
 something to take into account when making the gown...

I totally agree with you on this however I am fairly familiar with how
these styles should look already so it wasn't too much of a problem for
me.

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Regency question

2005-11-12 Thread Diana Habra

 Hi,

 My husband and I will go to our fhirst Regency ball next year.
 http://www.nehelenia-designs.com/costumeevents/costumeevents.html

I am SOO jealous!!  We don't have wonderful places like this where I live 
(California).  It is beautiful!

 I have two Butterick patterns, 3648 and 3723.
 Are those of any use?
 Or is there a better male pattern?
 Ireally don't know anything from this period.

 I have the La Mode Bagatelle pattern
 and I made a fantasy version with that pattern.
 http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/Regfront.jpg
 http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/Regback.jpg
 I think I'll need to make the skirt smaller so that I don't have to
 pleat it to the bodice.

Actually, if you look closer at the embroidered white dresses, they use a
very light cotton fabric and leave it smooth across the front.  Then start
your pleating around where the arms hang and the majority of the pleats
are in the back.  It is much more flattering than pleating or gathering
all around the top of the skirt.

The Museum of Bath has an exhibit of Jane Austen dresses right now that
you can see online.  If you look closely at the seam lines and adjust any
of the patterns you already have, you will be fine.  Here is a link to the
Bath exhibit:

http://snipurl.com/jtdw

If you can't get the snipURL to work, just go to www.museumofcostume.co.uk
and click on Special Displays and Exhibitions.

Have fun!!  You do such nice work I am sure you will look fabulous!

Diana

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RE: [h-cost] Regency question

2005-11-12 Thread Diana Habra


 Day dress
 http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_537.htm

Wow!  I got lost on this site for about an hour.  And 100 pages of printer
paper later.I have up-close pictures and information about real
antique clothing!  Even though the garments are for sale, this website has
better detail pictures than any costume museum website I have seen.

If you like to look at details and figure out how they did that from the
1750's onwardspend some time and look through this site :~

My favorite detail picture is from the 1800-1810 apron front dress:

http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_190.htm

It is an apron front dress where the front of the bodice flips up in
to place.  Scroll down to the second-to-last picture.  They have splayed
the dress out so that you can see exactly how it was constructed and how
it all goes together.  Awesome!!!

Sorry to get all weirdly excitedbut I love finding out how things are
truly done on period clothing ;~

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] 18th Century Fabric

2005-11-07 Thread Diana Habra


 Hello,

 Does anyone know of an on-line source for reproductions of 18th century
 fabrics?  I've found a few, but don't want to miss any before I choose the
 fabric for a 1780s-1790s  dress.

Anita,

If you can wait for a few monthsI will be carrying Duran Textiles
starting in Februrary.  If you haven't seen the website, it is really
great (especially the photographs that Laila takes)!  Here is a link:

http://www.durantextiles.com/

I will be starting with the cotton prints and eventually hope to carry the
full line.  And next to each style of fabric she says where the original
pattern was found.  Very cool!

Diana

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[h-cost] OT-Question about Silk Taffeta

2005-11-04 Thread Diana Habra
Hello everyone,

I was hoping that any of you who use silk taffeta in your costuming could
help me..

I have been told that dupioni is not really appropriate for historical
costuming but I know that many of us use it to cut down on costs.  Taffeta
is closer to the weave/weight/sheen that is appropriate for the 1500's
through the 1800's but it is more expensive.

I have a supplier that has a nice range of colored taffetas but I am not
sure if the price is reasonable or not.

If you use silk taffeta, what do you typically pay per yard for it?  What
colors would you like to be able to find?  Any other input?  (Please
respond to me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] so that we don't clog up the list)

Thanks for your help!  And if I can offer silk taffetas at good prices, I
will do so.

Happy Sewing,

Diana


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Re: [h-cost] a holiday idea

2005-10-23 Thread Diana Habra

 Is there any interest among listmembers for a holiday gift exchange? I
 envision it working something like this: folks sign up with their name,
 address, and a 'favorite' (color, period, animal, technique).  Each
 participant receives the name of another participant and is then charged
 with buying or making a small ($10 -ish) gift and sending it to that
 person by Dec. 20th.

 I'm willing to coordinate, of course. :)

Sounds like alot of fun!  Count me in!

Would we get some other info about the person so that it can kinda be a
get to know you thing also?  I know the names of many people on the list
but don't know all that much about them.  It would be neat to know a
little more.

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] OT vacuums

2005-10-17 Thread Diana Habra

 Don't know if you get Dyson vacuum cleaners in the U.S. Mine is a
 heavy brute, but takes up cat hairs and cat litter and crumbs and
 threads like nothing I have ever had before. And the brush thingy on
 the end of the hose gets in all the corners I try to avoid.

We do have Dyson vacs but they are around $400 and according to Consumer
Reports they work but may not be worth the big price tag.

Diana

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[h-cost] Interesting article...

2005-10-17 Thread Diana Habra
I was reading my Colonial Williamsburg magazine this morning and saw this
article about tailors in the 18th century.  It is also online so I thought
I would share it with you

The most interesting thing to me is what tailors do versus
seamstresses versus mantua makers.  Have a look:

http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/Autumn05/Tailor.cfm

Enjoy!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] OT-digital camera opinions

2005-10-14 Thread Diana Habra

 Hi Diana,
 I have a Sony Cyber Shoot 3,2 mill. pixels camera.
 In stability it works very well. I have had it for 5 years soon, and i
 have
 used it frequently. It takes good closeup pictures.
 But it has a problem with the blue colours. It does not capture the right
 blue tones.

That has been one of the problems with mine!

Someone just pointed out to me that my camera might have a light balance
setting and it does!!  I can adjust for sun, clouds, indoor lighting,
etc.  I am going to try that first before I spend more money on a new
camera.  But if it doesn't work (or when this camera wears out) I think I
will buy an Olympus next :~

Thanks so much to everyone for their suggestions!!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool?

2005-10-14 Thread Diana Habra

 I've got 14 yards of plain medium-dark green (somewhere between emerald
 and forest) wool. It's lovely and soft and about t-shirt weight. I
 thought I might make cloaks out of it, but it seems a little light.

 What would you do? Any time, any place...

I would make a lovely cotehardie with as many panels as I can handle and a
huge skirt!  Warm and soft wool in dark green?  Sounds heavenly!

Diana

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[h-cost] OT-digital camera opinions

2005-10-13 Thread Diana Habra
Hello all,

I would like to ask your help in finding a digital camera brand that gives
good color representation when photographing fabrics.

I have had 2 Canon digital cameras now and neither of them is good at
capturing fabric colors.  Since I have to put pictures on my website that
represent the true fabric colors, I really want to take pictures and have
them be correct without lots of altering (like I have to do now).

If you have any opinions or experience, please share it!

Thanks so much for your help!

Diana

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[h-cost] Kyoto Costume Book 18th-20th Century

2005-09-09 Thread Diana Habra
Dear list,

I apologize if this was already mentioned on the list butI was at my
local Half Price Books store and I bought the Kyoto Costume Institute
books (2 volumes) that covers 18th to 20th century and it was only $24.98!

I live in Concord, CA and am not sure if they have many other stores or a
website but if anyone really wants it and doesn't have access, I am
willing to buy it and ship it to you for cost+tax+shipping.  Contact me
off-list and I will help you out.

Cheers,

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] changing silk red to orange

2005-09-09 Thread Diana Habra
 I'm just not sure what I need to do to bring my red to orange or rust
 color without killing the silk.

 or would I be better off switching to a new color scheme, like the red
 and black?  I can do that, I was just hoping to stay as close to the
 original painting as possible.

I don't know if you work with Rit dye much but overdyeing your silk with
yellow dye should give you an orange.  Now if your red silk is very dark
red, you will not get the nice medium orange/rust that the painting shows.
 But if it is a basic red, you may have some luck just by adding the
yellow.

You could also try a natural yellow dye, too.  It would be much more
involved but it might be fun to try!

Hope that helps,

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze

2005-09-09 Thread Diana Habra

 I'm not having a lot of luck ordering this from the museum.  Someone
 mentioned that they had gotten it through one of the on-line booksellers.
 I've tried Bibiofind and bookfinder and no luck so I've probably
 remembered
 it wrong.

 Evil Katherine brought a copy to the Project night on Thursday and I
 really
 have to have this book!

Yes you do!  It is really fabulous...

I got mine through Abe Books.  Give them a try.

Diana

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RE: [h-cost] New to me Eleonora of Toledo

2005-09-03 Thread Diana Habra


 http://www.hermitagemuseum.org

 click on English
 go to quick search and type in A.Alessandro, click on go
 scroll down to the paintings, click on next 5-16 matches
 click on next 17 - 28 matches.
 scroll down to #25
 You probably have seen this. Someone has it on their website.
 Eleanor has a high collared cream dress with a light teal sleeveless
 overdress that has red and gold embroidery on it.
 I like this site as you can zoom in much better. Her dress is pleated
 w/red
 and green braid holding it in place w/matching pleated sleeves. Wonderful
 details.

I agree that the portrait is beautiful but I don't think it is Eleonora of
Toledo.

Firstly it doesn't really look like her and secondly, the new book that I
have entitled Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e
la sua influenza has this portrait listed as Portrait of a Woman by
Alessandro Allori 1580-1590.  In a book about Eleonora of Toledo, I would
think that if the portrait were really of her, this book would say so.  It
is a lovely portait, though.

And there are many other portraits that I hadn't seen before that are in
the book I mention above.  It is very much worth the $100 for anyone who
is passionate about Italian Renn clothing!

Diana

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RE: [h-cost] New to me Eleonora of Toledo

2005-09-03 Thread Diana Habra

 It does look very different from the portraits that we are used to from
 Bronzino.  The hairstyle is so tight to the head.  I just put it down to
 the
 difference in artist's eyes.  Also, I thought that the eyes of the girl
 did
 look much like those I'm familiar with.

 I can't wait to get my hands on a copy of this book.  It's on order and
 I'm
 waiting for them to send me the receipt to tell me how much to pay.  By
 the
 way - how did you pay for your copy or did you get it in Italy?  I'm going
 to England in two weeks and expect to get the Euro-check there.

Wanda,

I paid for it using a credit card when I ordered it through Abe Books. 
The cost was dependant on the exchange rate that day.  But with shipping I
paid about $100 for it.  And it did come from Italy

Hope that helps,

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Skirt question

2005-09-01 Thread Diana Habra

 Hello all!

 I'm wanting to make a skirt that looks like this one:
 http://ursus.smugmug.com/photos/33402851-L.jpg
 http://www.folkwear.com/120.html

 but I'm thinking it's kinda silly to buy a pattern for something that is
 essentially a series of strips of fabric, and I want mine to be much
 fuller
 than most of the commercial patterns look, as this will be used for a
 dance
 costume of the same style as the top picture.

 What I am wondering is if there is a formula for construction, such as:
 first strip is x long, second strip is double x, third strip is three or
 four x. (if that makes sense?) Once I have that, then I can figure out my
 yardage.

 Any input is appreciated. :-)

 Sheridan

Sheridan,

I don't have a formula for you, but you may want to invest in a gathering
or pleating foot for your machine.  I am a purist and never thought to get
a pleating foot or anything like that until my friend got a new version of
my machine and I saw her catalog of additional options.

Well, I went and bought a pleating foot and it is so awesome!!  Once you
learn how to thread it, it will make even pleats in a fraction of the time
(and frustration) it would normally take.  I assume a gathering foot would
be the same for your project!

Good luck!

Diana

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Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen

2005-08-25 Thread Diana Habra

 Two ccheap? fabric mentions.

   http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/wool_gabardine.htm
 $5 a yard wool gabardines, but the colors are ...BRIGHT

Remember, though, that wool takes dye very well and all you would have to
do is buy some RIT dye and use your washer to create a better or different
color!!  For example, you could overydye the bright green with a blue to
create a lovely dark green.  Or add blue dye to a pink wool to create a
lovely lavender or purple.

 also, this is a bit of a boast, and I will not be able to give the name of
 the store (i am going to go back on sat, and i just know where it is) but
 I found a bunch of 60 inch wide linen in fairly light weights for 3.50
 (plus 8 5/8th % sales tax).  I think I am going to buy a variity about
 $400

Is it 100% linen?  Sometimes the big chain stores call things linen or
linen look when they might only contain part linen or--no linen at all. 
Just be sure of what you are buying when you pay that price.  You might be
able to ask for a burn test there or get a sample and burn it outside
yourself.  I would just hate for you to buy linen and find out that it
really is linen/rayon or poly/rayon.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

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Re: [h-cost] Late 17th century brocades (take 2)

2005-08-24 Thread Diana Habra

 Oops, forgive my typo - that should read ___late 1690s___

Kerrie,

Once you find the types of patterns you need, take a look at
www.discountfabricsusa.com and let me know if you see any patterns that
might work for you.

I can offer you the fabric for *at least* half of what they list on their
website (their prices are more for decorators) and I can also order a
swatch so you can see it in person ahead of time.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

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[h-cost] The Aristocrats

2005-08-11 Thread Diana Habra
Hey there,

Anybody seen The Aristocrats?  I bought it sight unseen from a BBC
catalog and really enjoyed it.  It is set during the 1700's and is about
the Duke of Richmond's 4 daughters.

I really enjoyed the story and the costumes were pretty good (as you would
expect from the BBC).  Unfortunately it only came on VHS when I bought it
but it was very enjoyable.  I give it a thumbs up!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

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Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze and other costume sourcebooks

2005-08-03 Thread Diana Habra


 and my favorite:
 Moda a Firenze: Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza
 No, she didnt have the flu, but she did have money.  I bought 3 copies
 if this one knowing my friends would scream dibbs. They did. It's
 basically QEWU for Eleanor  Florence.  Authors are on staff at the
 Pitti Palace home of Eleanor's burial gown.  Text is Italian 
 English, side by side. The english leaves something to be desired.  It
 can be both amusing and frustrating at times.  Doublecheck by reading
 the Italian, if you can. (I cant, but fake it with French.)

I just ordered a copy via mail and it is fabulous!!  Well worth the almost
$100 that I paid for it.  And I wasn't expecting it to be in english, too.
 That was a bonus.

And I am sure that you paid much less than I did so make sure your friends
appreciate how much money you saved them ;~

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

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Re: [h-cost] 1st Regency

2005-07-28 Thread Diana Habra

 Hi -

 There's an event coming up in early September for which I'd like to make
 my first regency gown, c1815. I'm interested in authenticity (will
 gladly sacrifice modern notions of what is flattering to acheive it).
 I'll be drafting everything myself.

 Does anyone have advice on the following:

 1) As a matron of, ahem, mature years, I'm planning on making a corset.
 Though it dates to a bit later, I thought I might go with the more
 substantial corset as seen in the Kyoto Museum
 http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/1819stay.jpg) instead of the Corset á
 Ninon (http://www.regencygarderobe.com/First%20Decade%20corsetry.htm).
 Any comments on that one?

Hope,

I made a corset of the same style you are talking about at Costume College
last year.  (For those who don't know, Costume College is a weekend full
of classes and events for costumers--it is held each summer in Los
Angeles) I took an all day class from a lady and finished about 75% of it.
 It needed a little adjusting, but it came out pretty good.  One word of
advice, thoughmake the corset ALL white or ivory.  Do NOT add colored
accents of any kind.  I put lavender bias tape around the edges and it can
be seen through my gauzy white dress.  Obviously I have to change it but
haven't gotten the motivation yet ;~

The corset is very comfortable, just like it is supposed to be.  It isn't
supposed to squoosh you into an unnatural form.  It is supposed to lift
and separate the girls and just sort of smooth everything else out.  My
busk is too long which makes sitting a little difficult, so try to avoid
making the busk go below your hip line.

 This would probably mean making the gown white cotton. Would that be OK
 for a ball gown, especially for someone my age?

Ball gowns usually weren't white and were probably made out of more
expensive fabrics.  If you are trying to portray a lady of wealth and
society, you may want to try to make two different gowns.  They really
don't take long and it will probably be easier to make another dress than
to make a spencer anyway.

 4) Since the local Joann's is woefully limited when it comes to fine
 cottons, I was going to order some from online (Farmhouse Fabrics? any
 otheres?). Which is lighter: lawn or batiste? Recommendations either way?

I think lawn is lighter than batiste.  I sell it on my website for
$5.60/yd and it is very soft.  It is also very see-through.  So maybe lawn
or shirting on the outside and muslin for the lining?

 (For a future day gown I was wondering if this would be appropriate:
 http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Shopper_id=94847281015469484Store_id=198page_id=23Item_ID=8294)

You betcha!  I made my recent Regency out of something very similar.  I
can send you a picture if you like.  Mine was a nylon material but it
certainly gives the right look.  It is very sheer so I used a shirting
material (that has small stripes woven into it) as the lining fabric.  It
came out very nice.  And I strategically placed the embroidered flowers on
the bodice and sleeves to give it a great look.

Well, I didn't answer all of your questions but I hope that I helped
somewhat ;~

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

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Re: [h-cost] Fabric dying (fwd)

2005-07-25 Thread Diana Habra

 It's pretty likely that if you were wearing these colors in most of the
 Middle Ages, you wouldn't have dyed them. You'd have bought the fabric
 already dyed by a specialized dyer, or brought undyed wool or woven fabric
 to the local dyer. The exact sequences and roles (who dyes, who weaves,
 when those steps occur, and when it ends up in the consumer's possession)
 would vary from one time to another and one place to another.

I absolutely agree with Robin here.  Some people did do their own dyeing
at home.  In general, however, the fabric was generally bought already
dyed.

 If you want to know how the dyer would have achieved the colors, again for
 most of the Middle Ages, you're dealing with madder for most red shades
 and woad for all blues. Your bluish violet would have been made with some
 combination of those two, possibly with overdyeing.

Except that madder gives a more orange-red in various shades.  And
bluish-violet, depending on the actual shade, could be achieved by other
dyestuffs...logwood being one of them.  But I don't know when logwood came
to be used as a dye so the time frame you are talking about is important.

Dyeing in period is a fascinating subject and if you love chemistry and
doing experiments, natural dyeing is a lot of fun.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

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Re: [h-cost] Lacing rings

2005-07-24 Thread Diana Habra

 Does anyone know the merchant who sold me a supply of small (less than 1/4
 inch)
 but sturdy brass rings (no visible seam)

I sell these rings.  They are 20 for $1.00 and you can buy as many or as
few as you want.

Here is the link:

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/products.php?int_era_id=5start_count_url=36

or you can go to my homepage at

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/index.php

and do a search for lacing rings.  They are about 3/8 in diameter and
very sturdy!

Hope that helps!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

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Re: [h-cost] Fabric dying

2005-07-24 Thread Diana Habra

 Greetings again,

 I'm working on a couple of  gowns and will be needing to write
 something up about how I would have dyed them the color they are.
 Since, I am not a dyer (yet). Can someone give me a name of a good book
 on medieval dyes that I may be able to find at my local library?  The
 dye recipes I am looking for are a pink (more of a dusty rose) and a
 bluish violet.

I have done some natural dyeing in the past but I can't remember the books
that I used as reference (my dyeing partner bought and kept the books).

Your best bet may be to start with your library...older books are still
good references and won't cost you anything.  Once you decide to try some
dyeing yourself, you may want to invest in some books because they will
have weights and measures that will help immensely.

And if you want bonus points from the judges, mention how colorfast the
dye is.  You can achieve many colors using all kinds of natural dyestuffs
but many of them will fade either quickly or eventually.

Good luck  sorry I couldn't give you better suggestions!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

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Re: [h-cost] Bustle gown in progress

2005-07-19 Thread Diana Habra


 I made the bustle, petticoat and skirt.
 And today I will start on the bodice.
 http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html
 For the petticoat, skirt and bodice I used Truly Victorian patterns.
 The bustle I made from a drawing in Corsets and Crinolines.

 It is a bit sweet those purples...

What a fun outfit!  And it looks great :~  What are you making it for?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
Everything for the Costumer

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