[h-cost] Victorian hat terminology
Dear all, I was asked by a friend about the correct name for a hat type worn by women in late 19th century England. And while I do historical costuming, the 19th century is really not my thing, so I thought I would ask the experts here. She described it as a small top hat, bigger and flatter than the miniature top hats you see in steampunk garb, often swathed in ribbon and tulle. Picture examples: - http://100megspop3.com/adira/victoria/1882estacaoa.jpg, the one on the far left, though that may be a mutant bonnet. - http://100megspop3.com/adira/victoria/1884myraa.jpg, on the right. That's bigger and less frouffy (technical term :-) ) than I was thinking of. - http://100megspop3.com/adira/victoria/1881estacaob.jpg , the middle hat, which makes me think that maybe what I'm seeing is a small bonnet worn on top of the head? Is there a common name for this type of hat? Or are there several different ones depending on minute details in appearance and/or construction, alternatively no specific name at all? With thanks, Lena (mostly lurking) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The OriginalRe-Enactor's Market
I was there on Saturday. Did you get anything nice? /Lena (often lurking, rarely posting) --- On Sun, 15/3/09, sjpater...@eastlink.ca sjpater...@eastlink.ca wrote: From: sjpater...@eastlink.ca sjpater...@eastlink.ca Subject: [h-cost] The OriginalRe-Enactor's Market To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Date: Sunday, 15 March, 2009, 12:09 AM -Inline Attachment Follows- in Coventry, UK I got to go today then felt dumb when I saw names I thought I recognized from this list - who else was there? Sarah Paterson (SCA: Bess Darnley) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions
I'll give it a shot (Bjarne can correct me where/if I'm wrong): A white bride Bridesdresses have hot always been white. It was first at the end of the 18th century, that the white bride with veil and garland became fashionable. Until then you always got married in your best clothes. There have never been any firm rules for, what a bridesdress should look like. The cut of the dress, fabrics, colour and length followed the fashion of the times. From the end of the 18th century white has dominated bridal fashion, at least for those that could afford it. This custom has remained until our times, also in periods where the white colour wasn't fashionable in other dresses. Among peasants and the common townspeople a black bridesdress has been the most common. It was not just a question of economy, but also of tradition. In that part of the population white did not belong: white was for the posh. The fashionable white chemise dress of nettle cloth - fabric of nettle fibres - has probably been worn by the baroness Eleonora Sophie Rantzau (born 1779), when she in 1797 got married to the county count Preben Bille-Brahe, Hvedholm. Description of the garment The dress consists of skirt and bodice. The skirt has a coarse white embroidery at the bottom. The very short bodice is lined and has an internal lacing in front. At the back the fabric is pleated at the waist. The front parts are gathered at the waist, go up over the shoulders and meet in a point on the bakc, where they form a collar-like [besætning = decoration???]. The skirt is tied in front. The sleeves are half-length and lined. The skirt is long and with a train at the back. Dress, white [moll = ?], Museum number W.8.h Nettle cloth, i.e. fabric of nettle fibres. White, with white embroidery. Skirt, Length at the back: 135 cm Skirt, length at the front: 113 cm Hope this helps, Lena --- On Thu, 18/12/08, Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com wrote: From: Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com Subject: [h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Date: Thursday, 18 December, 2008, 11:17 PM Dear h-costume Is there anyone here who has translated the pattern instructions for this regency gown at http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=8 or is able to help me with translation? Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books 1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian Upcoming Events: Christmas Carol Ball 20 Dec 2008 Back from the Beach Ball 17 Jan 2009 Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009 http://www.earthlydelights.com.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Early Medieval horisontal looms
A while ago, someone on this list asked for reference to a shuttle found in Waterford, Ireland. I've come across a completely unrelated object, but relevant for the early medieval horisontal looms: A pulley from Sigtuna, Sweden (dated to 11th-12th centuries). Picture here: http://mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/fid.asp?fid=117780 My source (in swedish): http://histvarld.historiska.se/histvarld/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2335 If you want more info, either contact me, or ask the forum directly (scroll down the main forum page for the English forum). Hope this can be of use to some of you. /Lena ___ What kind of emailer are you? Find out today - get a free analysis of your email personality. Take the quiz at the Yahoo! Mail Championship. http://uk.rd.yahoo.com/evt=44106/*http://mail.yahoo.net/uk ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Norse poufy pants
--- Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have someone wanting a pair of those Birka poufy pants. Does anyone have a general assembly, pattern sort of thing out there that I might use? I swear someone out there had a fairly definitive how to, but I can no longer locate it. Kathy There's a pattern and info at the Swedish Historiska världar website: http://www.historiska.se/histvarld/eng/drakter/vherre/vherrefr.htm http://www.historiska.se/histvarld/drakter/monster/dvmpasbyxor.pdf The drawing ought to make the construction fairly straightforward, but if you have problems, contact me and I can translate the pattern pdf. /Lena Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Norse poufy pants
--- Lauren Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: snip but the Swedish Historiska pdf sure seems to imply the pants were gathered around the knee, and I had heard rumors that the pants weren't really gathered, just looked that way because of tighter wraps on the lower legs. Has this been resolved anywhere? AFAIK, no-one knows how these trousers looked like below the knee. All (two?) archaeological finds consist of fragments of the seat. You can ask at the english forum over at Historiska världar (http://www.historiska.se/histvarld/forum). Ny Björn or someone else ought to be able to tell you about the current state of research. /Lena Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] shuttle
I managed to find the Waterford excavation book at the university library, and scanned the image (p.597). Download image (387 kb) here: http://www.sendspace.com/file/1pi2y8 Figure text (p.596): fig. 16:15:9: Weaving shuttle: E257:1339:30+386: Backyard sill-b hses PS2/3:L11:L12th-E13th C: Yew. L. 195mm. Lentoid in overall shape. Max. W. 41mm tapering to 6mm at terminals. Max. Th. 20mm tapering to 5 mm at terminals. Centre hollowed out. L. 100mm x W. 25mm. One terminal has three holes bored vertically D. 2mm, 3.5mm and 5.5mm. The smallest does not perforate. The largest has an extant peg L. 27mm. The peg as a tapering hole wich corresponds to the 'horizontal' perforations on the inner faces of the terminals. At the opposing terminal this perforation has two points and has worn or been fashioned throught to the surface suggesting that whatever fixture was inserted could be easily detached at this end. One arm also has a hole through it which may function to store the artefact safely. The terminals have slight scoring evident which may be the result of binding. / Lena Does someone have access to: Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover) by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator) Institute of Public Administration (Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986 It is out of print and unavailable for Interlibrary loan. I understand that a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could someone scan or photocopy the image and text about the shuttle for me, please? Thanks. Beth Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Waterford excavation book (WAS: [h-cost] shuttle)
The Waterford book is _very_ rare. IIRC only 500 books were printed. $600 wouldn't be an unusual price. I don't know how many copies made it over the Atlantic, so perhaps your best bet is to contact someone at a museum or university (archaeology department) in Ireland and ask them for a photocopy of that page. /Lena --- Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I would much prefer to add the book to my collection of archeology reports. I ordered the book from Amazon-UK last year... and after many delays, they finally cancelled my order saying that the book was unavailable. Up until last month, there was a copy at a bookseller in Ireland.. I just could not make myself pay $600 for it! I'd quite willingly pay $134 for the book. I'm not an ILL librarian (live in rural Arkansas), but the librarian in my county is good about ordering things for me. She said that all copies listed did not circulate, so she couldn't get it... even paying an additional fee (which I frequently do). Beth At 01:04 PM 11/23/2006, you wrote: Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 14:01:24 -0800 From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] Does someone have access to: Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover) by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator) Institute of Public Administration (Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986 It is out of print and unavailable for Interlibrary loan. I understand that a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could someone scan or photocopy the image and text about the shuttle for me, please? Thanks. Beth Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Trip to London
Hi Cin, AFAIK, I'm not booked for anything on those weekends, so give me a shout off-list regarding time and place. Oh, and if you're interested in the medieval period, I'd recommend a (weekday) visit to Oxbow bookshop in Oxford. /Lena --- Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello UK h-cost members, I've got a surprise short notice trip to London on Sunday. I'd love to meet up with any of the locals for tea, museum crawling, the fabric store used bookstore tour or even a tour at a historic site or theater where you work or volunteer. We're ariving Mon. I will have 25-26 Nov and 29-31 by myself. I can meet up on other days, but will have my dear fiance on hand. Bribes facilitating payments: we live in Silicon Valley, very close to ThaiSilks. Hollar if you'd like us to bring something in particular. I used to tempt people with treasures from California wineries, but the latest travel restrictions into the UK forbid hand-carried wine. It's a cruel world. Raz I also do a lot of historic dance styles, Renn to Ragtime. If anyone knows of a dance event or class we'd love to have your advice and companionship. Thanks so much, --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Lund, Sweden
However, if you contact them, maybe you can arrange to be shown clothes that are not on exhibit? ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) I went there on a behind the stage day a few years ago, and they have wonderful stuff. /Lena --- Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Cin, There is the museum called Kulturen wich has a department with Historical Costumes, i think they change their exhibitis from time to time. I was there 3 years ago to see womens clothes from early 18th to 20th century. I know they have a ruff from 16th century amongst other rare things. Thanks so much, Bjarne. He said the exhibit had closed. His note is copied below. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] I was at that Museum. The exhibits changed and they did not have the women's clothes exhibit. Their bookstore did not have anything (in any language) on clothes. That was the first thing I looked for :) I was hoping to surprise you with a good catalog but no such luck. Raz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ All new Yahoo! Mail The new Interface is stunning in its simplicity and ease of use. - PC Magazine http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lack of thread in extant garments
--- Ailith Mackintosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Greetings. I have received a request for help: It seems that in a lot of extant garments, the protein fibers (wool and silk) have survived, while the plant fibers have not. We can only speculate that linen thread was used because there are stitching holes and no thread (and it seems unlikely that they would have pulled the silk or wool sewing thread out before tossing the rest in the trash). I was hoping you might be able to help me find some sort of documentation that I can use as a reference that explains how this works? It doesn't have to be overly technical. Right now I cannot get to my books and my brain is not working...so I'm turning to the best group of costuming/clothing/historians that I can think of. Can any of you help, please? Quoting Museum of London: Textiles and clothing, page 2: ...surviving textiles are biased by the types of deposit in which they are preserved. They occur most frequently where anaerobic conditions prevail, along the Thames waterfront, for example, and occasionally in cesspits. These acid conditions have the effect of causing cellulose fibres to break down very rapidly, particularly through fungal attack, and linen is, therefore, poorly represented. Hope this helps, Lena ___ Inbox full of spam? Get leading spam protection and 1GB storage with All New Yahoo! Mail. http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: any interest in remaindered book?
I agree with Eva. Also, would you mind if I passed your mail on to the 75years group on Yahoo, as it's right in their time period? /Lena --- Eva Andersson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I wonder if you would mind giving the name of the british remainder dealer? There seem to be little point for me, as a European, to buy something that already is in Britain from someone in the US, risking customs fees and with more expensive shipping. /Eva Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 22:06:47 -0400 From: JAMES OGILVIE [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] any interest in remaindered book? To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 A British remainder dealer just notified me that RECORDS OF THE WARDROBE AND HOUSEHOLD 1285-1286 , published by HMSO, has been sent to them. I have no idea whether it has much information for costumers but I thought I'd ask if there are folks interested in taking the gamble. There are 2 volumes, one with a list price of 35 pounds and one with a list price of 47 pounds. I would be selling each volume for $24 plus shipping. Their next U.S. consolidated shipping should arrive in mid-August (while we're at Pennsic). ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ All new Yahoo! Mail The new Interface is stunning in its simplicity and ease of use. - PC Magazine http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 12c crusades clothing
Have you asked the people on the 12centurygarb list? http://groups.yahoo.com/group/12thcenturygarb/ /Lena --- Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I need some help. I'm trying to find some ideas on costumes from the crusades, I mean that kind of mixture of christian and arabian clothing worn approx. at the end of 12th century. Maybe something like the costumes from the Kingdom of heaven, but rather some sort of noble-costume. I've really been searching for it quite long and I still can't find anything. Please if someone has any idea of some web page about it or whatever sort of information, tell me:-)) Zuzana __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Movies-things that make you cringe!
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I never could figure out why everyone was so crazy about Sound of Music, especially costume historians! So I'm not the only one. Considering the amount of comments in the journal, you are most certainly not alone. Personally I just love them escaping _towards_ Germany... /Lena ___ Switch an email account to Yahoo! Mail, you could win FIFA World Cup tickets. http://uk.mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Movies-things that make you cringe!
In the spirit of these movie related threads: I would like to draw your attention to History Spork, where two (or sometimes) three historians spork historical movies. In the archives are Braveheart, Sound of music, The patriot, and many more. http://history-spork.livejournal.com/ In the same vein, a lovely King Arthur review: http://ajhalluk.livejournal.com/174695.html Enjoy! /Lena Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: monk underwear
--- Heather Rose Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: snip There's an even better example in Walter Map's De Nugis Curialium where he tells a story of a monk whose order disdained underpants as being too luxurious, so that when he took a tumble in the street he exposed his ... parts for all and sundry to see. Walter gives the moral of the story as something roughly equivalent to sometimes discretion is the better part of asceticism. Heather Do you know where in De Nugis Curialium this story is? I've been wanting to follow up this reference for quite a while, but the book is reference only, and rather thick, so I can't justify an entire photocopy. /Lena ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: monk underwear
--- Lloyd Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: snip Makes one wonder what the daily Rule was. Kathleen Well, since the copies were still in my bag... In English only, 'cos I'm lazy: The clothing distributed to the brothers should vary according to local conditions and climate, because more is needed in cold regions and less in warmer. This is left to the abbot's discretion. We believe that for each monk a cowl and tunic [cucullam et tunicam] will suffice in temperate regions; in winter a woolen cowl is necessary, in summer a thinner or worn one; also a scapular [scapulare] for work, and footwear - both sandals and shoes [pedules et caligas]. [...] To provide for laundering and night wear, every monk will need two cowls and two tunics, but anything more must be taken away as superfluous. It doesn't say anything about hosen, but I'm not sure if that's due to the translation, or if Benedict wrote it with a mediterranean climate in mind. Or possibly they should just put up with the cold. /Lena ___ Win a BlackBerry device from O2 with Yahoo!. Enter now. http://www.yahoo.co.uk/blackberry ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Medieval clerical underwear
From The Rule of St Benedict, chapter 55. In latin: (for those who don't trust translations :-) Femoralia hi qui in via diriguntur de vestario accipiant, quae revertentes lota ibi restituant. Et cucullae et tunicae sint aliquanto a solio quas habent modice meliores; quas exeuntes in via accipiant de vestario et revertentes restituant. And in English: Brothers going on a journey should get underclothing from the wardrobe. On their return they are to wash it and give it back. Their cowls and tunics, too, ought to be somewhat better than those they ordinarily wear. Let them get these from the wardrobe before departing, and on returning put them back. On a related note, I'd like to bring attention to the book Requiem. The Medieval monastic cemetery in Britain, by R. Gilchrist and B. Sloane (2005). In chapter 5, they discuss burial clothing and dress accessories. Apparently, in quite a few cemeteries dating to the 14th century, pairs of annular (round) buckles have been found at the upper femurs of males. They argue that these would have been used to attach the hose to the breech-belt. These bodies may have belonged to laymen rather than monks, though. /Lena --- Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Below forwarded from another list. I could swear we've talked about this before -- it's in one of the monastic rules, I think, perhaps the passage that mentions femoralia that gets brought up every so often? Anyone have a source? -- Forwarded message -- I think that medieval monastic legislation on dress often specified that underwear had to be worn by monks or friars when going outside the monastery: i.e. there was a pragmatic concern for modesty when travelling about, which would not apply, of course, at burial. I've just looked in Giancarlo Rocca, ed., La sostanza dell'effimero: gli abiti degli ordini religiosi in occidente (Rome: Edizioni Paoline, 2000) for verification, but without success. Someone else may have a source to hand. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Medieval clerical underwear
I have that one somewhere. I'll go look in my office sometime in the week. I'm moving house right now, but I'm fairly certain I know where those papers should be. /Lena --- Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Below forwarded from another list. I could swear we've talked about this before -- it's in one of the monastic rules, I think, perhaps the passage that mentions femoralia that gets brought up every so often? Anyone have a source? -- Forwarded message -- I think that medieval monastic legislation on dress often specified that underwear had to be worn by monks or friars when going outside the monastery: i.e. there was a pragmatic concern for modesty when travelling about, which would not apply, of course, at burial. I've just looked in Giancarlo Rocca, ed., La sostanza dell'effimero: gli abiti degli ordini religiosi in occidente (Rome: Edizioni Paoline, 2000) for verification, but without success. Someone else may have a source to hand. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] knuckle length sleeves - how to?
--- Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: When I make cuffed sleeves, I simply cut them on the bias, and add enough length at the wrist to turn up to make the cuff. I fully line the sleeves. That way you can wear them knuckle length *and* turned back. I don't think I left them open at the wrist either - the bias cut gives quite a bit, enough to slip your hand through unless you have very big bones. Hope that makes sense. Do you cut the lining on the bias as well? How would cutting on the bias affect the rest of the sleeve, in comparison to the usual on the grain cutting? Also, do you cut your sleeves on the true bias or on a slight bias? I'd prefer not to cut the sleeve on true bias, mainly as that wastes a lot of expensive fabric which can be used for other things. /Lena ___ NEW Yahoo! Cars - sell your car and browse thousands of new and used cars online! http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] knuckle length sleeves - how to?
--- Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I haven't looked up your source, but do I gather
that you're saying the
source doesn't have knuckle-length sleeves, but
you're adding them because
you like the look for your purposes?
That's right. The Bodleian 264 sleeves are tight and
end at the wrist. I've seen images of knuckle length
sleeves from later in the 14th century, but my notes
from that lecture are safely tucked away somewhere in
my office, so I can't get any details on time period
and/or region.
My plan was to make the sleeves knuckle length ('cos I
find it stylish), and later fix the dress up for
re-enactment/living history purposes (haven't decided
yet on removing cuffs for an earlier fashion or fixing
the neckline for a later fashion).
If I were doing them for my purposes, I'd follow
clues from my source.
However,
If I were doing them just for show, and not worried
about
historically correct methods, I'd try the following:
1. Build in the flare to the sleeve
2. If that doesn't work, add a small gusset as you
describe
3. If that looks wonky, make it a separate
attachment as you describe.
Hmm, that sounds like a good way to start with the
design that requires the least amount of extra bits
and then add on if it doesn't work.
I should note that I always create a first sleeve
for someone as a mockup,
which I baste into the armhole and fit on the body,
so it would be easy to
test various options. I try not to cut into my my
real fabric for the
sleeves till I know where I'm going. I will cut with
impunity on body
pieces, but I have found so many ways to screw up
sleeves, I'd rather make
my mistakes on something I don't mind wasting. And
then it saves me time
in the long run.
Cheap mock-up fabric is your friend... :-) Normally,
this would be my way of doing it as well, but lack of
time and no knowledgeable people to help me fit
clothes (within reasonable time distance) makes it
slightly awkward, so I have to resort to alternative
methods (i.e get it right the first time).
/Lena, who finds sleeves really awkward and difficult.
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[h-cost] knuckle length sleeves - how to?
Hi, I'm on my first attempt of making a gothic fitted dress. It's for a modern ball, so I'm taking a bit liberty with historical correctness. It's basically a MS Bodleian 264 dress, with a shallow wide neck opening and tight buttoned sleeves. The sleeves are supposed to go down over the knuckles with a small flare, which IIRC are a later development. Now, for my problem. What would be the easiest/best/authentic way of cutting the sleeves? I'm thinking either to cut the sleeve in one piece, with a flare at the end, and then insert a gore in the middle (i.e. where the thumb is when wearing the dress) to make the flare symmetrical, OR make an ordinary sleeve first and then add a (two?) curved piece for the cuff. Naturally, I'm behind schedule, so quick replies are very appreciated. /Lena (38 buttonholes to go... *shudder*) - To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] knuckle length sleeves - how to?
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My sleeves are cut completely on the bias with a gusset in the seam line.. sorta between the sleeve seam and the arm hole. (I have broad shoulders and long arms). Or are you asking how to make the cuff part?? Just the cuff. The rest of the sleeve is (in theory) ok. /Lena ___ Win a BlackBerry device from O2 with Yahoo!. Enter now. http://www.yahoo.co.uk/blackberry ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
