RE: [H] Asus bad
At 02:57 PM 30/10/2007, Tim \The Beave\ Lider wrote: All these Caps being damaged messages reminds to let you guys know that you can drastically reduce the problem by actually buying high end Power Supplies. If you spent $50.00 or less on a power supply, well may I say you get what you paid for. While I agree with you that a good PS is critical, it isn't a panacea when it comes to puffed caps. I had a motherboard in last week with eight bad caps (five by the CPU and three by the AGP slot.) I replaced them, and the three by the AGP slot puffed again within 24 hours. So I replaced them again and used an Enermax 350W PS to test for the next 24 hours. The caps puffed again. So I replaced them again with caps that were phyically bigger and these held. So it may be the caps or it may be another component puffing them, but it isn't always the PS. The original caps I used were Nichicon UVZ0J332MPD (6.3V 3300uf) and the final ones I used were Nichicon UPW0J332MHH (6.3V 3300uf) - I have been assured by Mouser that they are the same when it comes to use on motherboards, but possibly there is some quality difference between the two. I also had a machine in last week with 13 bad caps, and an el cheapo PS that was whining like a two year old in a candy store - I think the bad caps on the motherboard were directly due to the PS in that case. T
Re: [H] Asus bad
Thane Sherrington wrote: At 02:57 PM 30/10/2007, Tim \The Beave\ Lider wrote: All these Caps being damaged messages reminds to let you guys know that you can drastically reduce the problem by actually buying high end Power Supplies. If you spent $50.00 or less on a power supply, well may I say you get what you paid for. While I agree with you that a good PS is critical, it isn't a panacea when it comes to puffed caps. I had a motherboard in last week with eight bad caps (five by the CPU and three by the AGP slot.) I replaced them, and the three by the AGP slot puffed again within 24 hours. So I replaced them again and used an Enermax 350W PS to test for the next 24 hours. The caps puffed again. So I replaced them again with caps that were phyically bigger and these held. So it may be the caps or it may be another component puffing them, but it isn't always the PS. How much time did this take you in total? It seem to me that the problem is cheap, cheap, cheap all the way around. The original caps I used were Nichicon UVZ0J332MPD (6.3V 3300uf) and the final ones I used were Nichicon UPW0J332MHH (6.3V 3300uf) - I have been assured by Mouser that they are the same when it comes to use on motherboards, but possibly there is some quality difference between the two. I also had a machine in last week with 13 bad caps, and an el cheapo PS that was whining like a two year old in a candy store - I think the bad caps on the motherboard were directly due to the PS in that case. I guess there must be good money to be made in fixing cheap partsbut it seems like there should be some decent mobo upgrades that would end up costing about as much to the end customer.
Re: [H] wify printer ?
resending this because it got bounced last night Ahaha.. ermm yes.. well, its not terribly difficult. Since I don't see a mention of a particular make and model of printer I'll just summarize how most network printers are configured and installed. Hopefully you are already using a wireless access point or wireless router (an all-in-one device that includes an access point). Depending on whether the printer is just a printer or a multifunction printer that scans and faxes can change the complexity of the installation. If you don't have a wireless router or access point then you are going to have to configure the printer for ad-hoc mode instead of infrastructure mode. In ad-hoc mode you also need to have a wireless adapter on each computer that will talk directly to the printer. I'm going to assume you already have a wireless router or AP. This will make your printer available to all devices on the network whether they are hardwired or using the wifi connection. Make sure your printer is set to the same SSID as your AP. Factory default SSID on most routers will be something like 'linksys', 'netgear', 'default', etc. Once the printer is properly connected to the wireless network it will most likely be assigned an IP address through DHCP. If there is a LCD screen on the printer you can probably print a report of the printers current network settings. I'd recommend that you give the printer a static IP address on your network, the setup software on most HP wifi printers I've seen recently will recommend and do this at some stage of the installation wizard. Once you successfully configure the printer from one computer and can print to it, it is pretty easy to configure the rest of the computers on your network to use the printer. All network printers wireless or wired are essentially a combination of a print server and of course, a printer. This means that you should be able to access the printer through one or more protocols through the network such as RAW TCP, LPR, NetBEUI, AppleTalk, IPX/SPX, etc. I like to use either LPR w/ byte counting or RAW TCP. To install the printer on any additional Windows computers you can usually use the Add Printer Wizard from the Printer Control Panel. You can always re-rerun the printer setup disc but I prefer manual installations. First start the wizard, next choose the option for a local printer (deselect plug n' play detection), choose create a new port, select standard tcp/ip port, enter the ip address of the printer, choose printer driver in the selection window. Voila, you're through! Wash, rinse, repeat on the rest of your computers. If the printer is a multifunction device that can scan and print then you will definitely have to install the printer software from the installation disc. Are they shipping printers without install instructions now??? :) -Tharin O. DHSinclair [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well, according to Tharin, there just might be... .I always assumed not too I'll wait. Best, Duncan At 17:39 10/29/2007 -0700, you wrote: Have to set up a wireless printer, at the moment have no idea how the network is setup, whether a router or direct. I assume this is no big deal if there is a router. Fp snip
Re: [H] Private IP classes
resending another email that bounced.. did hardwaregroup.com go down yesterday? I'm not certain because I've never tested it, but I think on the LAN side you must use a subnet that would be confined to a single Class C network when using a consumer router. Using 255.255.0.0 as a subnet mask would actually be subnetted as a Class B network since only the first two octets would be the network portion. It could be that a router would let you enter this type of subnet on the LAN configuration but would not function as expected. Nice choice on the router btw; I own the very same unit. I wanted a router with a gigabit switch and tests on Tom's Hardware showed that it could support a high speed WAN connection as well as many active sessions, thus making it P2P file-sharing friendly. My previous router would spontaneously reboot if I had too many active connections due to Kademlia. It simply wasn't powerful enough to handle the load. Anyway.. back to the subnets.. I think the only valid choices for a subnet mask when using these kinds of routers would be one that restricts you to functioning under a single Class C network. (when I say Class C I mean that when looking at an IP of AAA.BBB.CCC.xxx only hosts whose first three octets are matching, can communicate directly) The usable subnet masks are the following 255.255.255.0 (1 network, 254 hosts) 255.255.255.128 (2 networks, 126 hosts each) 255.255.255.192 (4 networks, 62 hosts each) 255.255.255.224 (8 networks, 30 hosts each) 255.255.255.240 (16 networks, 14 hosts each) 255.255.255.248 (32 networks, 6 hosts each, used with 5 ip accounts) 255.255.255.252 (64 networks, 2 hosts each, what most ISPs assign) If you were using a Class C address of 192.168.1.x and a subnet mask of 255.255.255.192 you would essentially be chopping up 192.168.1.x into 4 subnets. There would be a total of 64 ip addresses in each subnet but since the first and last address of any network are reserved, there are only 62 usable addresses for your hosts. The same logic can be seen in the other subnet masks. I know I'm probably repeating/rephrasing some of what I already said but I think more examples help me when trying to understand something. -Tharin O. DHSinclair [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Tharin, Thank you for the reply. The smoke clears. I want to read your reply a few more times.
Re: [H] Asus bad
At 11:09 AM 31/10/2007, Anthony Q. Martin wrote: How much time did this take you in total? It seem to me that the problem is cheap, cheap, cheap all the way around. I'd say a little under an hour and a half of labour. The whole thing cost the customer $93. I charge by the job, not by the hour. So comparatively, he could have paid ~$90 for a new motherboard (assuming I could have found one that worked with his CPU and RAM) then $59 to install the board, another $59 to install Windows, then $49 to restore his data to the new Windows installation, and of course he'd be stuck reinstalling and reconfiguring everything. I'd say $93 was reasonable. It was an Asrock motherboard, so it isn't the worst of the low end motherboards. I guess there must be good money to be made in fixing cheap partsbut it seems like there should be some decent mobo upgrades that would end up costing about as much to the end customer. Not really, as I pointed out above. The cost of a new motherboard install (assuming one can get a motherboard that will match all components) and the work involved is a lot more than just the cost of a new motherboard. T
Re: [H] wify printer ?
thanks, big help fp At 11:13 AM 10/31/2007, Tharin Olsen Poked the stick with: resending this because it got bounced last night Ahaha.. ermm yes.. well, its not terribly difficult. Since I don't see a mention of a particular make and model of printer I'll just summarize how most network printers are configured and installed. Hopefully you are already using a wireless access point or wireless router (an all-in-one device that includes an access point). Depending on whether the printer is just a printer or a multifunction printer that scans and faxes can change the complexity of the installation. If you don't have a wireless router or access point then you are going to have to configure the printer for ad-hoc mode instead of infrastructure mode. In ad-hoc mode you also need to have a wireless adapter on each computer that will talk directly to the printer. I'm going to assume you already have a wireless router or AP. This will make your printer available to all devices on the network whether they are hardwired or using the wifi connection. Make sure your printer is set to the same SSID as your AP. Factory default SSID on most routers will be something like 'linksys', 'netgear', 'default', etc. Once the printer is properly connected to the wireless network it will most likely be assigned an IP address through DHCP. If there is a LCD screen on the printer you can probably print a report of the printers current network settings. I'd recommend that you give the printer a static IP address on your network, the setup software on most HP wifi printers I've seen recently will recommend and do this at some stage of the installation wizard. Once you successfully configure the printer from one computer and can print to it, it is pretty easy to configure the rest of the computers on your network to use the printer. All network printers wireless or wired are essentially a combination of a print server and of course, a printer. This means that you should be able to access the printer through one or more protocols through the network such as RAW TCP, LPR, NetBEUI, AppleTalk, IPX/SPX, etc. I like to use either LPR w/ byte counting or RAW TCP. To install the printer on any additional Windows computers you can usually use the Add Printer Wizard from the Printer Control Panel. You can always re-rerun the printer setup disc but I prefer manual installations. First start the wizard, next choose the option for a local printer (deselect plug n' play detection), choose create a new port, select standard tcp/ip port, enter the ip address of the printer, choose printer driver in the selection window. Voila, you're through! Wash, rinse, repeat on the rest of your computers. If the printer is a multifunction device that can scan and print then you will definitely have to install the printer software from the installation disc. Are they shipping printers without install instructions now??? :) -Tharin O. DHSinclair [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well, according to Tharin, there just might be... .I always assumed not too I'll wait. Best, Duncan At 17:39 10/29/2007 -0700, you wrote: Have to set up a wireless printer, at the moment have no idea how the network is setup, whether a router or direct. I assume this is no big deal if there is a router. Fp snip -- Tallyho ! ]:8) Taglines below ! -- Join hands across the seas. Stop continental drift.
Re: [H] Private IP classes
inline below. Great share btw.. I'll move ahead and address this share even though I have not readied my return query to the bottom half of your last share.. :) Apologies to the remaining List members if this discussion is causing problems At 11:29 10/31/2007 -0700, you wrote: resending another email that bounced.. did hardwaregroup.com go down yesterday? I'm not certain because I've never tested it, but I think on the LAN side you must use a subnet that would be confined to a single Class C network when using a consumer router. Using 255.255.0.0 as a subnet mask would actually be subnetted as a Class B network since only the first two octets would be the network portion. It could be that a router would let you enter this type of subnet on the LAN configuration but would not function as expected. OK. I understand. I will again attempt to apply a class C network strategy. Even though the LAN runs very much better using class A with a full (25.255.255.0) netmask. Even the router is happy at 10.0.0.1/255.255.255.0. Nice choice on the router btw; I own the very same unit. I wanted a router with a gigabit switch and tests on Tom's Hardware showed that it could support a high speed WAN connection as well as many active sessions, thus making it P2P file-sharing friendly. My previous router would spontaneously reboot if I had too many active connections due to Kademlia. It simply wasn't powerful enough to handle the load. Anyway.. back to the subnets.. Superb, another resource for future router questionsHayes, now there are 3 of us!. :) I think the only valid choices for a subnet mask when using these kinds of routers would be one that restricts you to functioning under a single Class C network. (when I say Class C I mean that when looking at an IP of AAA.BBB.CCC.xxx only hosts whose first three octets are matching, can communicate directly) The usable subnet masks are the following 255.255.255.0 (1 network, 254 hosts) 255.255.255.128 (2 networks, 126 hosts each) 255.255.255.192 (4 networks, 62 hosts each) 255.255.255.224 (8 networks, 30 hosts each) 255.255.255.240 (16 networks, 14 hosts each) 255.255.255.248 (32 networks, 6 hosts each, used with 5 ip accounts) 255.255.255.252 (64 networks, 2 hosts each, what most ISPs assign) OMG. I did miss this business 2 years ago. So, this is how true subnets - actual seperate channels for groups of PCs get done. Amazing, truly amazing. I do not fully grasp, but now know which chapters of my book to re-read. :) Now, I just finished trying to use a 192.168.218.x IP series. Maybe boneheaded, but I used the value of 218 in the 3rd octet just because my home address is 218. It seemed like a valid way to differentiate my LAN from all of the plethora of 192.168.?.? LANs on planet Earth. The fun started from this decision. It took, but was slow and glitchy. When I make a major LAN change to my LAN topography (like an IP address series choice), should I be using some tool or reset process for the winsock when I make these changes (class A to class C)? I never did. And still have not. Even though I am back to almost where I started with some minor address changes. If you were using a Class C address of 192.168.1.x and a subnet mask of 255.255.255.192 you would essentially be chopping up 192.168.1.x into 4 subnets. There would be a total of 64 ip addresses in each subnet but since the first and last address of any network are reserved, there are only 62 usable addresses for your hosts. The same logic can be seen in the other subnet masks. I know I'm probably repeating/rephrasing some of what I already said but I think more examples help me when trying to understand something. Do not apologize, please! Your examples help draw the mental pictures I need to grasp these really subtle things. I was working for Xerox back when this ethernet thingy came to be. Thought I had a good grasp. Perhaps not. It just seems to have gotten so much more complicated - for obvious reasons! I do appreciate the level of detail. Best, Duncan -Tharin O. DHSinclair [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Tharin, Thank you for the reply. The smoke clears. I want to read your reply a few more times.
Re: [H] Asus bad
I am doing something similar with an old Soyo(/AMD/VIA) MB of my own... I managed to find a NEW exact rev. sealed board from a dealer... I think I'm good to go for another three years... And all for only $40(US)... grin Lots of RAM, and runs at 2.6G AMD... I'm beginning to think it was a bad idea to stray away from Intel... Rick Glazier From: Thane Sherrington The cost of a new motherboard install (assuming one can get a motherboard that will match all components) and the work involved is a lot more than just the cost of a new motherboard.
Re: [H] Asus bad
At 05:03 PM 31/10/2007, Rick Glazier wrote: I am doing something similar with an old Soyo(/AMD/VIA) MB of my own... I managed to find a NEW exact rev. sealed board from a dealer... I think I'm good to go for another three years... And all for only $40(US)... grin Lots of RAM, and runs at 2.6G AMD... I'm beginning to think it was a bad idea to stray away from Intel... Because of the puffed caps problem? Intel-based motherboard have had plenty of those. The P4 doubles as a cap-puffer due to the ridiculous power strain it puts on components. T
[H] Dynamic DHCP re the ISP
All you folk that are blessed with static IP addys from you ISP need not respond. I already envy you. Here owning a static IP addy is $16/mo. I know there is no free lunch, but still. :) So, I use Dynamic DHCP with my ISP (BellSouth). It works, but from time to time they (BellSouth or ATT) rotate me to an IP addy that appears to me to be completely dead. No browse, no email, no nothing other than ping. Is this to be expected, or, am I just dealing with two massive IT departments (networks) trying to fully converge on each other? The good news is that my router gives me a /Connect/ button and a /Disconnect/ button. With these I can most always get a new Internet IP addy that is alive. Odd to me, because my upstream gateway address never seems to change. So far, so good. And the router has /on-demand/ and /always on/ selections also. Just now I am using the /on-demand/ setting. I figure that if I am not using the internet there is no need to allow the internet a connection to my LAN. Yes, I do still own a tiny tin hat! LOL! Your thoughts, suggestions and comments are welcome. Best, Duncan
Re: [H] Asus bad
Actually, the remark about AMD/VIA and Soyo stems from the fact they don't last over 3.75 years. You can squeeze them a little longer, but two of mine went pretty belly up, and my wifes was VERY sensitive to moderate heat this summer... The minute the temp dropped a couple degrees it worked fine... (I have case fans, I replaced the NorthBridge fans, and even the CPU fans...) For a short while, I was using an old retired Dell 800M Win_ME to surf and get e-mail... It is Intel and still works perfect under the same conditions, in the same room... JMHO, YMMV... Rick Glazier From: Thane Sherrington Because of the puffed caps problem? Intel-based motherboard have had plenty of those. The P4 doubles as a cap-puffer due to the ridiculous power strain it puts on components. At 05:03 PM 31/10/2007, Rick Glazier wrote: I'm beginning to think it was a bad idea to stray away from Intel...
Re: [H] Asus bad
Thanks, Thane. And why I passed on the whole P4 scene...back when?.. Best, Duncan At 16:34 10/31/2007 -0300, Thane wrote: snip Because of the puffed caps problem? Intel-based motherboard have had plenty of those. The P4 doubles as a cap-puffer due to the ridiculous power strain it puts on components. T
Re: [H] Asus bad
I've definitely had issues with a few VIA based mainboards, BUT I also have 3 epia mini-itx systems that have been rock solid running 24/7 for about 4 years. The mini-itx ones seem to be very stable when configured as these ones are. I used the same drive image for all of them, running win2k server. lopaka DHSinclair [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Rick, Agree totally even w/o any technical specifics. Every AMD/VIA m/b I have ever used has been a problem, or, suffered what I perceive to be an early RTF. Maybe, just my situation, but still.. Best, Duncan At 16:11 10/31/2007 -0500, you wrote: Actually, the remark about AMD/VIA and Soyo stems from the fact they don't last over 3.75 years. You can squeeze them a little longer, but two of mine went pretty belly up, and my wifes was VERY sensitive to moderate heat this summer... The minute the temp dropped a couple degrees it worked fine... (I have case fans, I replaced the NorthBridge fans, and even the CPU fans...) For a short while, I was using an old retired Dell 800M Win_ME to surf and get e-mail... It is Intel and still works perfect under the same conditions, in the same room... JMHO, YMMV... Rick Glazier From: Thane Sherrington Because of the puffed caps problem? Intel-based motherboard have had plenty of those. The P4 doubles as a cap-puffer due to the ridiculous power strain it puts on components. At 05:03 PM 31/10/2007, Rick Glazier wrote: I'm beginning to think it was a bad idea to stray away from Intel...
Re: [H] Asus bad
more VIA then AMD IMO I shy from VIA anymore. At 02:15 PM 10/31/2007, DHSinclair Poked the stick with: Rick, Agree totally even w/o any technical specifics. Every AMD/VIA m/b I have ever used has been a problem, or, suffered what I perceive to be an early RTF. Maybe, just my situation, but still.. Best, Duncan At 16:11 10/31/2007 -0500, you wrote: Actually, the remark about AMD/VIA and Soyo stems from the fact they don't last over 3.75 years. You can squeeze them a little longer, but two of mine went pretty belly up, and my wifes was VERY sensitive to moderate heat this summer... The minute the temp dropped a couple degrees it worked fine... (I have case fans, I replaced the NorthBridge fans, and even the CPU fans...) For a short while, I was using an old retired Dell 800M Win_ME to surf and get e-mail... It is Intel and still works perfect under the same conditions, in the same room... JMHO, YMMV... Rick Glazier From: Thane Sherrington Because of the puffed caps problem? Intel-based motherboard have had plenty of those. The P4 doubles as a cap-puffer due to the ridiculous power strain it puts on components. At 05:03 PM 31/10/2007, Rick Glazier wrote: I'm beginning to think it was a bad idea to stray away from Intel... -- Tallyho ! ]:8) Taglines below ! -- Let your mouth write no check that your tail can't cash.
Re: [H] Asus bad
Good choice IMHO. To me, VIA means an experience. Best, Duncan At 16:28 10/31/2007 -0700, you wrote: more VIA then AMD IMO I shy from VIA anymore. At 02:15 PM 10/31/2007, DHSinclair Poked the stick with: Rick, Agree totally even w/o any technical specifics. Every AMD/VIA m/b I have ever used has been a problem, or, suffered what I perceive to be an early RTF. Maybe, just my situation, but still.. Best, Duncan snip
