KR> Canopy Gluing- Epoxy
Mark L. wrote ?Another key is HOW you do it...you need to sandwich the acrylic on both sides with glass to put it in a sort of "double shear" rather than glass on only one side" ?snip- Since I will be attaching my canopy soon I thought a test was in order. I gouged (very rough) an area in some bead foam and roughed up (very rough!) a piece of left over canopy material. Flox was applied to the foam, the canopy material applied to the flox (no glass)and carbon fiber was applied to the outside of the canopy material. Please note that the foam was so rough there was not 100% contact with the canopy plastic. The carbon was not completely wetted out. I purposely set up a scenario of failure to see how well the joint would hold when not even done properly. The results are the three last pictures on my photo site. After 24 hours and an insufficient cure I really had to struggle to break loose a corner. The carbon fiber separated from the epoxy (Aeropoxy) but the epoxy could not be removed from the canopy plastic! After a full cure of the epoxy I can honestly say that, if installed properly, the canopy is not going to separate in flight! The bond is unbelievable strong! The key is to roughen the plastic to the point that the epoxy has something to hold to, just like Mark L. said! Bob Johnson Willamina, OR (971) 645-9491 https://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/KR2SS#
KR> Brake bleeding
I used to do brakes (Rosenhaun) from the bottom up but dirty oil and particulates settle to the bottom of the lines - so pumping it right back up through the system doesn't seem the best way to me - besides I always made a mess in the cockpit AND at the bottom as a hose comes off from squeezing too hard on the pump handle.I was probably doing something wrong . . . These days I just crack the bleeder and pour fresh oil into the reservoirs at the top. When I get fresh bright red oil coming out the bottom I tighten the nut and top off the reservoirs and I'm done. Gravity did my work for me. I've got a vaccuum pump for brakes but haven't needed it. Another tool for the collection. Mike KSEE $65/Hr Job - 25 Openings Part-Time job ($20-$65/hr). Requirements: Home Internet Access http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d5b5ff85e6924959am07vuc
KR> Matco wheels and brakes
Gee - what am I missing here - I was always taught to fill/bleed aircraft brakes from the bottom up - every aircraft brake assembly I've ever dealt with had the "bleeder/filler" at the very bottom. Rick Human N202RH Houston, Tx RdRacer wrote: "having the bleeder on the top is definitely good for ensuring all air is out of the system."
KR> Matco wheels and brakes
If you bleed the brakes from the bottom up, it won't make any difference where the fill port is located. Ron --- On Tue, 2/15/11, rdrace...@aol.com wrote: From: rdrace...@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Matco wheels and brakes To: kr...@mylist.net List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Tuesday, February 15, 2011, 5:32 PM The brake line coming off the bottom should not be a problem, and having the bleeder on the top is definitely good for ensuring all air is out of the system. If you are still worried about the brake line hanging close to the ground, you should be able to use an "L" fitting to connect the hose to the caliper. this would allow the actual line to ext horizontally towards the back of the brake and leave plenty of clearance from the ground. In a message dated 2/15/2011 1:40:52 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, da...@windstream.net writes: I would be even more concerned about having the brake line that close to the pavement. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Matco wheels and brakes
The brake line coming off the bottom should not be a problem, and having the bleeder on the top is definitely good for ensuring all air is out of the system. If you are still worried about the brake line hanging close to the ground, you should be able to use an "L" fitting to connect the hose to the caliper. this would allow the actual line to ext horizontally towards the back of the brake and leave plenty of clearance from the ground. In a message dated 2/15/2011 1:40:52 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, da...@windstream.net writes: I would be even more concerned about having the brake line that close to the pavement.
KR> Matco wheels and brakes
Dan, Bleeding the brakes is so much easier than that. Buy your self a little pump oil can at the local auto parts store and a piece of clear tubing. Fill the can full of hydraulic fluid. Slip one end of the tubing over the end of the oil pump and the other end over the bleeder nipple. (You may have to buy a 1/4 tube to go on the pump and a 3/16 tube to slip inside the 1/4 tube and onto the bleeder nipple) Crack the bleeder nipple open and pump fluid through the system from the bottom up. Close the bleeder nipple. Your brake system is now bled. This works best if you start with an empty or nearly empty reservoir. Usually, one little pump can full of hydraulic will fill one side of your brake system. Fill the can and repeat for the other side. -Jeff ScottLos Alamos, NM -- Original Message -- From: "Dan Heath" To: "'KRnet'" Subject: KR> Matco wheels and brakes List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 16:40:36 -0500 Well, I would be even more concerned about having the brake line that close to the pavement. He said that I can turn it horizontal, but I don't think it bleeds well that way, I tried it. My plan for bleeding is to suck the fluid from the reservoir at a high volume, to suck out all the air and replace it with fluid. I have a large reservoir that I will place on top of the reservoir, that holds about a quart of fluid. I have a device that connects to the compressor and acts like a reverse paint sprayer, sucking the fluid through the system using the bleeder valve and depositing the old fluid in the container that would hold the paint, if it were a paint sprayer. I will let you know how it works when I get there. See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics� See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN There is a time for building and it never seems to end. Daniel R. Heath -�Lexington, SC -Original Message- The fluid chamber needs to have the bleeder on top to be able to easily bleed the air out. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html Refinance as low as 2.875% Most loans under $729K are eligible for Government Refinance Programs http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d5b0aa423a952cbcfast06vuc
KR> Matco wheels and brakes
Well, I would be even more concerned about having the brake line that close to the pavement. He said that I can turn it horizontal, but I don't think it bleeds well that way, I tried it. My plan for bleeding is to suck the fluid from the reservoir at a high volume, to suck out all the air and replace it with fluid. I have a large reservoir that I will place on top of the reservoir, that holds about a quart of fluid. I have a device that connects to the compressor and acts like a reverse paint sprayer, sucking the fluid through the system using the bleeder valve and depositing the old fluid in the container that would hold the paint, if it were a paint sprayer. I will let you know how it works when I get there. See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN There is a time for building and it never seems to end. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC -Original Message- The fluid chamber needs to have the bleeder on top to be able to easily bleed the air out.
KR>differential compression
Jonathan, You can do math to calculate whether this engine needs attention or not, but if an engine with this small of an individual cylinder displacement came into my shop, there would be no question in my mind that it would get some attention before leaving. It is possible that it *could* be a valve adjustment, but with all of them off just a little, my best guess would be that the heads need to come off to have the valves and seats ground. If you are thinking about buying this engine, then deduct the cost of a valve job from the value. -Jeff Scott -- Original Message -- Jonathan wrote: > I'm new and currently interested at buying a KR-2 and I was wondering 2 > things. The compressions are 58, 71, 73, 75 is this good? These numbers are the result of a differential compression test, with 80 being perfect, 0 being "dead hole". The rule of thumb is if there's more than a 20% difference in compression, something needs to be fixed. 80/58=1.38, so you've got a 38% difference in that one cylinder, so it needs fixing. It may be something as simple as a tight exhaust valve on a VW. To give you a clue of how that stacks up, the worst compression I've seen on my engine in the last 330 hours has been 78/80 on one cylinder. Most of the rest at 80/80. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html Kill Your Wrinkles Mom Reveals Shocking $5 method for erasing wrinkles...Doctors hate her http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d5aceac3ae4e3238fdst05vuc
KR> hangar in Mulberry, Florida (off-topic)
Howdy; still trying to help locate a Fairchild that is somewhere in a hangar near Mulberry, Florida (close to Lakeland). The hangar is owned by a Clarence Smith and I have more info on it. Anyone out there living near Mulberry or familiar with Mr. Smith (he owns a Taylorcraft) please contact me off-list; thanks. Oscar Zuniga Air Camper NX41CC "Scout" San Antonio, TX website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
KR>differential compression
Bob Lee wrote: >>Two questions come to mind with that good compression: 1. What brand of rings are you using? 2. Who does your valve jobs? 3. What kind of valve job do you use?<< Total Seal rings, and the valve job is thoroughly discussed at http://www.n56ml.com/corvair/valvejob.html , and more of the same at http://www.n56ml.com/corvair/phoenix/ , inlcuding a picture of pressure testing the chambers with a differential compression tester. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website www.n56ml.com
KR>differential compression
Mark, You stated: << I've seen on my engine in the last 330 hours has been 78/80 on one cylinder. Most of the rest at 80/80. >> Two questions come to mind with that good compression: 1. What brand of rings are you using? 2. Who does your valve jobs? OK 3 questions: 3. What kind of valve job do you use? Regards, Bob Lee N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA USA 92% done only 67% to go!
KR> ideal tail dragger gear height /angle of attack
I don not think that the KR can be landed full stall as the aoa would have to be about 13 degrees. Hard to do with the tail dragger configuration, Virg On 2/15/2011 6:32 AM, PilotPond wrote: > Could someone remind me what is the ideal angle the airplane should be at > when on the ground in tail dragger gear configuration? > > My thinking is that during the landing you get a full stall of the wings > which if my limited understand of design is correct; should allow the > steerable tail wheel with toe brakes to have more control as we slow down. > > > Darren > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >
KR> ideal tail dragger gear height /angle of attack
I wrote: >Most KRs are around 10" (measured at the longeron). That should have been "10 degrees (measured at the longeron)". Apparently I'm getting too stupid to answer questions here anymore. Sleep deprivation takes its toll eventually, at least that's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website www.n56ml.com
KR> ideal tail dragger gear height /angle of attack
Darren wrote: >>Could someone remind me what is the ideal angle the airplane should be at when on the ground in tail dragger gear configuration? << Most KRs are around 10" (measured at the longeron). Obviously it would be nice to be closer to stall angle, which is something like14 degrees to get the landing speed lower, but that's not as easy as it sounds. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website www.n56ml.com
KR>differential compression
Whuuups. Bad math. I knew that didn't look right. 58 is 72.5% of 80, so it's a 27.5% drop. Quick and dirty would tell you that 60 is 25% down, so I shouldn't have even needed a calculator to figure that one out and get closer than I did. Still not stellar. I'd dicker over the condition of that engine... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website www.n56ml.com
KR>differential compression
Jonathan wrote: > I'm new and currently interested at buying a KR-2 and I was wondering 2 > things. The compressions are 58, 71, 73, 75 is this good? These numbers are the result of a differential compression test, with 80 being perfect, 0 being "dead hole". The rule of thumb is if there's more than a 20% difference in compression, something needs to be fixed. 80/58=1.38, so you've got a 38% difference in that one cylinder, so it needs fixing. It may be something as simple as a tight exhaust valve on a VW. To give you a clue of how that stacks up, the worst compression I've seen on my engine in the last 330 hours has been 78/80 on one cylinder. Most of the rest at 80/80. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website www.n56ml.com
KR> ideal tail dragger gear height /angle of attack
Could someone remind me what is the ideal angle the airplane should be at when on the ground in tail dragger gear configuration? My thinking is that during the landing you get a full stall of the wings which if my limited understand of design is correct; should allow the steerable tail wheel with toe brakes to have more control as we slow down. Darren
KR> Matco wheels and brakes
Yes, I see there is a huge difference. Why can you not just switch the connections. On my set up you are able to put the fittings on either top or bottom. The fluid chamber needs to have the bleeder on top to be able to easily bleed the air out. I like your jack points. I may have to do that on my bird. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI E-mail: flyk...@charter.net Web: www.flykr2s.com - Original Message - From: "Dan Heath" To: "'KRnet'" Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2011 4:30 AM Subject: RE: KR> Matco wheels and brakes Not the same ones. Take a look at: http://krbuilder.org/NewWheelsAndBrakes/index.html I believe that these are the C90 See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN There is a time for building and it never seems to end. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC -Original Message- You must have installed yours upside down. Take a look at the right way to install them. http://www.flykr2s.com/matcobrakes.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> hanger and compression
Then consult with Joe Horvath at reva...@aol.com He is MR. Revmaster See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN There is a time for building and it never seems to end. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC -Original Message- Its a revmaster.
KR> Matco wheels and brakes
Not the same ones. Take a look at: http://krbuilder.org/NewWheelsAndBrakes/index.html I believe that these are the C90 See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN There is a time for building and it never seems to end. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC -Original Message- You must have installed yours upside down. Take a look at the right way to install them. http://www.flykr2s.com/matcobrakes.html
