KR> switch labeling - Actually Fuel Pumps.

[Daniel Heath]

I had the pumps on a separate switch and a separate breaker.  I ran both
pumps all the time.  If one had ever failed, I would not have known it until
the next start up.



See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



2016 KR Gathering - Mt. Vernon, Ill.



Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 



Best Interior and Panel at 2008 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN





Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

KR> DPDT ignition and fuel pump switch

[Mark Langford]

Larry Flesner wrote:

> If that's the design, I'd certainly want a VERY RELIABLE "one"
> switch. Is that the switch that failed on Mark (on the ground,
> thankfully) that kept him from making the California trip?

Yep, so I replaced it with an identical new Otto switch, also supposed 
to be good for 25,000 cycles at 16A at 28V, which failed while flying back 
from SNF a few months later. Since it's a DPDT (double pole double 
throw) switch, there was a fresh unused pair of poles available at a 
flip of the switch, and the prop didn't even even spin down before it 
fired back to life again.  A bi-color LED next to the switch was my 
instant clue...when the bright green LED went out at the same time the 
ignition quit.  I've since replaced that DPDT switch with a much higher 
quality Honeywell DPDT relay rated at 15A at 250VDC.

That story is at http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/index.html#switches, 
with pictures of the fried contacts (and the pristine ones).
The overall electrical system layout and schematic are at
http://www.n56ml.com/electrical/index.html .

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> switch labeling

[Paul Visk]

I got the switch that Mark replaced it with.


Paul Visk?Belleville IL ?618 406 4705
Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4

 Original message 
From: Larry Flesner via KRnet  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 08/20/2016  3:54 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: KRnet  
Cc: Larry Flesner  
Subject: Re: KR> switch labeling 

At 03:33 PM 8/20/2016, you wrote:
>That is why I followed Mark's design. One flip of the switch, changes
>ignition, fuel pump and battery.

++

If that's the design, I'd certainly want a VERY RELIABLE "one" 
switch.? Is that the switch that failed on Mark (on the ground, 
thankfully) that kept him from making the California trip?

Larry Flesner

KR> switch labeling

[PPaulVsk at aol.com]

That is why I followed Mark's design. One flip of the switch, changes  
ignition, fuel pump and battery. If  it doesn't restart look for  a place to 
land.

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618 406 4705   


QW Saote:
>Yea, I know, think of that and flip the switch...you  hope!  Trust 
>me, it gets awful foggy when the prop  stops.

KR> switch labeling

[Larry Flesner]

At 03:33 PM 8/20/2016, you wrote:
>That is why I followed Mark's design. One flip of the switch, changes
>ignition, fuel pump and battery.

++

If that's the design, I'd certainly want a VERY RELIABLE "one" 
switch.  Is that the switch that failed on Mark (on the ground, 
thankfully) that kept him from making the California trip?

Larry Flesner
flesner at frontier.com

KR> switch labeling

[Larry Flesner]

At 01:00 PM 8/20/2016, you wrote:
>Yea, I know, think of that and flip the switch...you hope!  Trust 
>me, it gets awful foggy when the prop stops.
++

I can't imagine having the presence of mind to use a checklist if my 
engine quits.  Systems should be simple and all switches well labeled 
( https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8619.JPG ) .

The one time I lost my main electrical buss it only required the flip 
of one switch (on the red panel) to keep me in the air.  At that 
point I had plenty of time to consider options.

If my engine goes dead I only need to remember to turn off the 
"master" (that shuts off everything electrical in the aircraft) and 
shut off the fuel.  I shouldn't need a check list for that and can 
accomplish that 10 seconds before touchdown.  If you have time after 
an engine failure,  a check list with items like "carb heat / 
alternate air", "fuel tank selector", "ignition source", and the like 
might be a good memory jogger but in the end "shut off master" and 
"shut off fuel" are the critical items.   In my case the "master" is 
the last thing to switch off as it kills everything including radio, 
GPS, etc..

Larry Flesner
flesner at frontier.com 

KR> switch labeling

[Craig Williams]

Good that's exactly my thinking.  Many crashes have been caused by confusion or
just BAD design (John Denver fuel selector).  I know whats what in my plane but
the next poor SAP should not have to figure it out in an emergency.  By the way
I will use that switch to prime and start the engine and then it gets turned
off.


Craig


> On August 20, 2016 at 1:30 PM Mark Langford via KRnet  list.krnet.org>
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Craig Williams wrote:
> 
> > My second switch is to bypass all that and provide a ground to run
> > the pumps when priming and starting and if the oil pressure switch
> > was to fail. How would you label thatswitch?
> 
> "Emergency Pump".  You need it to be as clear as possible when you or 
> the guy who flies it later needs it, and only has 2% of their wits about 
> them due to the prop stopping!
> 
> You realize that you won't have any fuel pressure until the engine turns 
> over enough to trip the oil pressure switch, right?  That's going to 
> prolong starting.  Personally, I'd use a VW fuel pump relay, which has a 
> connection to the coil and powers the fuel pump during cranking and also

KR> switch labeling

[Mark Langford]

One more thing on this.   The engine will continue to run for a few 
(maybe five) minutes with NO oil pressure.  It would be a shame to have 
to put it in a field or in the woods because the fuel pump quit because 
oil pressure dropped below whatever the min oil pressure the switch 
breaks contact.  Yea, I know, think of that and flip the switch...you 
hope!  Trust me, it gets awful foggy when the prop stops.  Also, oil 
pressure switches normally trigger a tiny light or an electronic 
circuit, and fuel pumps (Facets) draw about .8A.  Make sure it has beefy 
contacts on it, and again...I hope you remember...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> switch labeling

[Flesner]

At 11:54 AM 8/20/2016, you wrote:
>Ok, so I have my fuel system installed and I am wiring the pumps.

+

A small LED next to the switch for a visual indication the switch is 
on is also nice.

Larry Flesner
flesner at frontier.com

KR> switch labeling

[Craig Williams]

Ok, so I have my fuel system installed and I am wiring the pumps.  They will
have voltage all the time and the ground will be selected to each pump as it is
selected with a spdt switch.  That switch is labeled "pump 1 and pump 2".  That
ground comes from my 5psi oil switch.  So that the pump selected will only run
when the engine is running and producing oil pressure.  My second switch is to
bypass all that and provide a ground to run the pumps when priming and starting
and if the oil pressure switch was to fail.  How would you label that switch?

pump bypass
emergency pump
fuel pump on
ground use only
pump bkup power

Thanks
Craig

KR> Experienced with Solid Works at the Gathering

[Mark Wegmet]

Thanks Bernie. Once I opened my eyes, it fell under the category (as I used
to tell my daughter) of 'if it was a snake, it would have bit me!!'

Regards.

Mark

-Original Message-
From: Wunder [mailto:mdkr2s at comcast.net] 
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2016 8:14 AM
To: Mark Wegmet
Cc: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: Re: KR> Experienced with Solid Works at the Gathering


I went to the EAA web site and found the link to download the Solid Works
software (search on SolidWorks).  But it is a multistep process.  You have
to fill in a form and then you get a message back with another link.  Then
you go to that link, download software, and fill in another form and you are
to get a key to unlock the software.  Doing all this resulted in me not
getting emails sent back.  So I went to the EAA forums (there is one for
Solid Works) and found out that the Solid Works  system rejects emails for
whatever reason.  SO I tried other email addresses.  It did not like my
first comcast.net one but accepted by second one.  When I went to get the
key the only one accepted was my gmail.com account and that message was sent
to my junk folder.  Like I stated previously, there are some twists and
turns but eventually I got there.  When a form is submitted, you should get
a return message in a couple of minutes...if not, might try another address.

That is what worked for me.
r/Bernie
Lsuby MD


-Original Message-
From: Mark Wegmet
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 7:23 PM
To: 'Wunder'
Subject: RE: KR> Experienced with Solid Works at the Gathering

So how do you do that? I am a member and went on to the site and it must be
the best hidden secret on it.

Thanks!

Mark W.
N952MW (res)


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

KR> Outer spar airfoil taper

[Matt Quimby]

"Recently someone posted a link to a picture showing how they had built a
jig setup to cut the taper using what appeared to be a wood rasp.?

Jim, I picked up a partially completed plane with the spars pre-built. I didn?t 
think about the airfoil taper until it was too late - after the spars were in 
place and foam glued in (along with fuel tanks.) I used a hand plane to shape 
the spars, and while it is a little more effort than a table saw and jig, it 
produced really nice results. None of the pictures on my blog highlight that 
very well? because it was a small step and really easy to get right. Just do 
yourself a favor and sharpen the blade OFTEN.

-Matt
http://kr2pilot.blogspot.com/

KR> Speeds

[Flesner]

>
>My question is simply this; On a stock retractable gear KR2 what is the
>maximum safe continous safe real world operating speed assuming a properly
>built aircraft?
>
+++

Design Vne is 200 mph.  You decide what's comfortable in anything but 
smooth air.  Unless you're flying a 550 pound KR with 100+ hp you'll 
never see 200mph in cruise.

Larry Flesner
flesner at frontier.com

KR> switch labeling

[Mark Langford]

Craig Williams wrote:

> My second switch is to bypass all that and provide a ground to run
> the pumps when priming and starting and if the oil pressure switch
> was to fail. How would you label thatswitch?

"Emergency Pump".  You need it to be as clear as possible when you or 
the guy who flies it later needs it, and only has 2% of their wits about 
them due to the prop stopping!

You realize that you won't have any fuel pressure until the engine turns 
over enough to trip the oil pressure switch, right?  That's going to 
prolong starting.  Personally, I'd use a VW fuel pump relay, which has a 
connection to the coil and powers the fuel pump during cranking and also 
disconnects it when the engine quits (crash).

And for those who think they'll switch the pumps off before they crash, 
these things happen quickly and when I glided for 15 minutes into a 
beanfield, I not only didn't think to turn the pumps off, but I also 
didn't think to shut the fuel petcock off.  Yep, I should of had a 
checklist for that!  I was concentrating on getting the thing on the 
ground safely.  There's more info on this setup at the bottom of 
http://www.n56ml.com/fuel/index.html ...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> Speeds

[Mark Langford]

Doran Jaffas wrote:

> My question is simply this; On a stock retractable gear KR2 what is
> the maximum safe continous safe real world operating speed assuming a
> properly built aircraft?

You didn't specify an engine, so I assume you mean airframe Vne, which 
is listed as 200 MPH in the plans (page 3 of my plans) and other 
promotional data.

If you are talking about engines, then please see
http://www.krnet.org/kr-info.html for a clue on that.

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> Flying on Top

[Mike T]

Oh, of course I agree that it was the running out of gas that killed Rand,
but flying VFR on top over a severe storm system is what gave him no
options when he ran out of gas.  I remember a report that the weather was
so bad they couldn't do search and rescue for days, although it didn't
matter because he had died instantly.

And running out of gas isn't the only reason engines stop. Nowadays it
might not be so bad bad to lose the engine flying VFR on top, because GPS
could give you some idea of what's underneath you so you won't crash into a
mountain or something.  If you're IFR qualified, that's even better. But
it's still more risky.

Mike Taglieri

On Aug 20, 2016 9:07 AM, "Paul Visk via KRnet"  wrote:

>
>
> Dan said:   I don't think that "flying on top" is what got him killed.  I
> think that itwas running out of gas
>  Whanever I was doing an IFR cross country flight. I would always get an
> "VFR on top" clearance. This gives me VFR freedom and still be able to
> maintain my IFR flight plan.  My opinion for VFR pilots flying "VFR over
> the top" should have at a minimum an attitude reference device and know now
> to keep the top side up in IMC. Just in case they have an unplanned
> descent.
> Paul Visk Belleville IL  618 406 4705
> Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Speeds

[Doran Jaffas]

Hello Everyone
   I've read quite abit about expected airspeeds. Some contradicting each
other.
   Depending on the engines used there seems to be quite a variation
   My question is simply this; On a stock retractable gear KR2 what is the
maximum safe continous safe real world operating speed assuming a properly
built aircraft?
 May have been already asked so feel free to point me in the right
direction.
   Thank You

KR> Experienced with Solid Works at the Gathering

[Wunder]

I went to the EAA web site and found the link to download the Solid Works 
software (search on SolidWorks).  But it is a multistep process.  You have 
to fill in a form and then you get a message back with another link.  Then 
you go to that link, download software, and fill in another form and you are 
to get a key to unlock the software.  Doing all this resulted in me not 
getting emails sent back.  So I went to the EAA forums (there is one for 
Solid Works) and found out that the Solid Works  system rejects emails for 
whatever reason.  SO I tried other email addresses.  It did not like my 
first comcast.net one but accepted by second one.  When I went to get the 
key the only one accepted was my gmail.com account and that message was sent 
to my junk folder.  Like I stated previously, there are some twists and 
turns but eventually I got there.  When a form is submitted, you should get 
a return message in a couple of minutes...if not, might try another address. 
That is what worked for me.
r/Bernie
Lsuby MD


-Original Message- 
From: Mark Wegmet
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 7:23 PM
To: 'Wunder'
Subject: RE: KR> Experienced with Solid Works at the Gathering

So how do you do that? I am a member and went on to the site and it must be
the best hidden secret on it.

Thanks!

Mark W.
N952MW (res)

KR> Oilite bushing insertion

[Mark Langford]

Below is something I wrote for the "KROnline Newsletter" in 1996.  There 
are more of these at http://www.krnet.org/kronline/, but many are 
missing photos (due to poor linkage practices, a server move, and my 
negligence toward fixing them).  I've dug up the photo and enclosed it, 
but it's way over compressed.  I could redo that photo now five times 
bigger and perfectly clear to have the same file size. See below.
__
Oilite bearings are normally constructed of sintered bronze. Oilite is a 
commonly used brand name, but there are many sources. They are 
manufactured in a manner which leaves tiny voids throughout the 
structure, somewhat like a sponge. They are then thoroughly impregnated 
with oil, so that during use, oil is constantly released to keep the 
rotating parts lubricated. This continuous lubrication makes them 
ideally suited for KR tail surface hinges.

Oil impregnated sintered bronze flange bearings are available in many 
different shapes and sizes, but the selections are slim down in the 
.1875" ID range. The bearings shown are actually made by slicing a 
longer bearing in half (Boston Gear #FB35-3). The flanged part has a 
3/64" flange, and is cut so that the bearing extends 1/8" (full depth) 
into the larger of the two hinge channels. The remaining part of the 
bearing is then machined down to 1/8" length and is used on the inner 1" 
channel. Because there is no flange on the inner hinge, an aluminum or 
nylon spacer must be installed around the bolt as a positive means of 
preventing the spacer from slipping out of the hinge. Of course, you 
could also put another flanged bearing on the inner hinge, and cut the 
excess bearing away, or just buy a 1/8" long sleeve bearing for this 
location (Boston Gear #B25-1).

Installation instructions vary, but the bearings are usually installed 
as an interference press of about .001" for this size. The press fit 
will compress the inner diameter somewhat, so the bore will then require 
reaming to the proper bolt diameter to provide a .001" running fit. Use 
a sharp reamer, as a dull one may smear the pores of the surface, 
effectively closing off the oil supply. Follow instructions provided by 
the bearing manufacturer. Of course, the instructions say to countersink 
the flange 3/64" so that it is flush with the surface. That would almost 
certainly require a machine shop, so they were simply left on the 
outside. Longer hinge bolts will be required. I?ve also heard that after 
assembly, you can soak the bearings in a 130-150 degree oil bath to 
replenish some of the oil lost during the machining process, but have 
never seen this as part of the installation instructions from a 
manufacturer.

For the do-it-yourselfer, you could just drill the required 5/16" hole 
slightly large for a slip fit, and use "wicking" green Loctite 290 to 
hold the bearing in place.  Loctite 290 is used when joining oily 
materials, and is well suited for this job as it wicks in between 
surfaces are are already assembled.  Also, the flange will hold the 
outside, and the spacer will ensure that the inner bearings stay put. 
Also, note that tolerances on these bearings are not extremely tight, so 
treat each one as if it were different. It probably is. After a press 
fit installation, an AN3 bolt will probably not even fit in the hole, so 
expect to buy a 3/16" reamer for sure.

Any local bearing emporium will have (or can order) oil impregnated 
sintered bronze bearings. I bought mine at an Invetech bearing store for 
about 50 cents each, with two required for each hinge (mine were cut in 
half, remember?) But if there are no local sources, one is Boston Gear 
at 14 Hayward Street, Quincy, MA 02171. They can be reached at 
(617)328-3300.

There are photos of the finished hinged installed at
http://www.n56ml.com/kvs.html.

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> Flying on Top

[Paul Visk]

Dan said: ? I don't think that "flying on top" is what got him killed.? I think 
that itwas running out of gas
?Whanever I was doing an IFR cross country flight. I would always get an "VFR 
on top" clearance. This gives me VFR freedom and still be able to maintain my 
IFR flight plan. ?My opinion for VFR pilots flying "VFR over the top" should 
have at a minimum an attitude reference device and know now to keep the top 
side up in IMC. Just in case they have an unplanned descent.?
Paul Visk?Belleville IL ?618 406 4705
Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4

KR> Gathering Campers

[John Bouyea]

I just found out the "I'm Camping" button on the Gathering registration form
wasn't working correctly. So if you ARE planning to camp at the Gathering,
please send a reply to kr2s at bouyea.net and let me know. I'll summarize the
count and pass it to Larry, our fearless Gathering host. Thanks guys!

John Bouyea
N5391M/ KR2
OR81/ Hillsboro, OR
2015 KR at MMV Gathering CoHost

KR> Flying on Top

[Daniel Heath]

I don't think that "flying on top" is what got him killed.  I think that it
was running out of gas.  IMHO.



See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



2016 KR Gathering - Mt. Vernon, Ill.



Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 



Best Interior and Panel at 2008 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN





Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

-Original Message-



"Also, are you flying on top of the weather, too?  That's how Ken Rand died.

He was flying VFR on top and ran out of gas."

KR> Facet pumps in series

[Mike T]

I've been thinking about this idea of not having a mechanical fuel pump on
a VW aircraft engine. There are several planes that dispense with it in
favor of the electric pump because the pump in the stock position can cause
a bump on the cowling.  This seems dubious from a reliability standpoint,
which is why so many people have multiple electric fuel pumps, backup power
supplies, etc.

But an idea occurred to me.  I had to replace a fuel pump 30 years or so
ago on my VW Beetle, and the pump is operated by a bump on the camshaft. As
the camshaft rotates, a pushrod  is moved up and down by that bump and the
top of that rod operates the pump.

This means there's no need for the stock pump to be located ON TOP of the
engine.  It could be anywhere around the case that would let the pushrod
reach the camshaft.  The pump mounts on a moveable plastic block (and there
may be a bore inside the case to guide the pushrod -- I don't remember --
but it would be fairly easy to cut this out of a junk case).

In this way, you could mount a stock VW pump to one side, allowing a normal
cowling and reliable fuel pumping with just one backup electric pump. When
I had to replace my fuel pump, my car had gone more than 100,000 miles.

Mike Taglieri

On Aug 17, 2016 1:35 PM, "Jeff Scott via KRnet" 
wrote:

> Paul,
>
> That particular configuration has a bit of a safety issue.  You always
> want at least one of your pumps before the gascolator.  Check out any low
> wing carburated Piper. The fuel flow goes from Fuel Tank -> Electric Fuel
> Pump -> Gascolator -> Mechanical Fuel Pump -> Carb.
>
> The reason why you want one fuel pump before the gascolator is that even
> the smallest leak in the gascolator will draw air under suction from the
> pumps and starve the engine for fuel.  If you have a pump before the
> gascolator, you can turn on that pump to restore fuel flow.  You may only
> have a small seep or drip at the gascolator under pressure, but that's
> enough of an air leak under suction to starve the engine.  This was a
> really common problem with the GlassAir series of aircraft.  They were
> designed with the gascolator under suction for the mechanical pump and had
> chronic problems with fuel starvation thanks to an O-ring seal that didn't
> seat well in their gascolator.
>
> Ideally, the first pump should not have to suck fuel up hill, which
> eliminates the same problem should there be an air seep at a fuel line
> junction between the tank and the pump.  But the gascolator can be a real
> problem because it is disassembled and reassembled regularly, so it's easy
> to have an air seep on occasion.
>
> -Jeff Scott
> Los Alamos, NM
>
>
> Here is a picture of my first layout of my duel facet fuel pump design.  I
> got it from flycorvair.com.  I ended up with something diferant with the
> same pumps.
> https://flic.kr/p/AoAMfe
>
> Paul Visk Belleville IL  618 406 4705
> Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Oilite bushing insertion

[s_sbal at hotmail.com]

 1: The combination of heating the receiving bore and cooling the bushing

opens up dimensions which allows for ease of installation. When the temps

normalize, the interference fit will have been achieved. I have seen

bushings simply "drop" into place and then become very secure

when normalized.



2: > I just drilled a hole, maybe reamed it to size (I forget) and used

> Loctite 620 between bushing and aluminum. If it was a press fit, I

> probably just tapped it in place.?


Many thanks to all your comments and suggestions ! Today I picked my orders 
from AS and Wicks and made some tests. I think I will use a combination of all 
suggestions (incl. ideas from Larry's comment):

- I found out my unibit drill is making slightly undersized holes, or the 
diameter of the oilite bushing is slightly bigger - the bushing will not enter 
freely at room temperature

- The 3/16 ID - 5/16 OD bushing is easily installed at room temperature using a 
regular vise and wood blocks as press-fit tool, the drilling was performed at 
room temperature. The AN3 bolt rotates freely inside the bushing

- This method doesn't work for 5/8 ID - 3/4 OD oilite bushings... even after 
heating up the 6061 plate. The bushing shrinks over the insertion tool 
(mandrel) and the latter gets jammed but gets loose from the 6061 plate when 
trying to remove the mandrel... I suppose the relative thickness of the bushing 
wall is too small and the deformation of the bushing is too big

- Loctite 620 will help to secure the bushing inside the 6061. Some rough 
surface on both the hole and the OD of the bushing shall help a lot to get a 
permanent fit

- I will probably cool down the bushing using liquid propane (at -40) and will 
heat up the 6061 to a temperatures around 150?C for easy insertion.


FYI, I will only need to do that once, for my modified Matco tailwheel where is 
needed the 5/8 ID bushing. 


Regards,

Stefan