KR>Landing gear

[Stef den Boer via KRnet]

A vriend of mine is rebuilding / finishing a KR2 and want to change from tial 
drager to nose gear. Is there someone out there who is having a set second hand 
nose and main gear or drawings.

I hope there is someone.

Stef 

Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see 
http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2 http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2

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KR>landing gear photos

[Flesner]

I was searching through the garage today for an item and came across 
some photos of my landing gear construction from 25 years ago.  As we 
were discussing this area recently I thought they might be of interest 
to some current builders.


original install before beefing up the gear leg.  That date should be 
12/95 not 96


https://www.dropbox.com/s/43x3lzk8w6j4s15/kr%20gear%20bracket%20001.jpg?dl=0

Later opened up the wing to reinforce the gear leg.  It looked too 
flexible under load


https://www.dropbox.com/s/dlqvvg5wo0gh1mk/kr%20landing%20gear%202%20001.jpg?dl=0

Closing up the cutout.  Note foam on front and rear of leg to streamline 
and brake line run through lead edge.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/wgm3jrcyh853syg/kr%20landing%20gear%203%20001.jpg?dl=0

Closed up right leg with one additional layer of KR cloth to finish.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ssnc1oba7ju4zj/kr%20landing%20gear%202%20002.jpg?dl=0

Closed up right leg with added ledge to install landing light and lens.  
That edge was covered with several layers of deck cloth for easier 
layup. The small notch at the gear leg is where the brake line will pass 
and route through the stub wing to the fuselage.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/ob4kj6989oktskm/kr%20landing%20gear4%20001.jpg?dl=0

My lower bracket that replaced the Diehl lower bracket that was later 
recalled.  The wheels, brakes, axles, and wheel pant brackets came from 
a salvaged C150.  The complete 600X6 wheel setup was later replaced with 
500X5 Clevelands.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/6h8x7s9ehc9pdti/kr%20landing%20gear5%20001.jpg?dl=0

If I ever need to get to the gear bracket I can remove the landing / 
taxi light assembly, cut out the foam and have complete access to the 
gear leg.


Finished leg.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dv7dh9ctflwbjv8/gear%20leg%20photo.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/knmplw6d5runmtn/kr%20gear%20leg%20-.jpg?dl=0

Larry Flesner



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KR>Landing gear drawing

[Craig Williams]

I just posted a drawing over on the FB page and here it is again.  I have 
reached out to a few companies that do this to see what can be made.  I'll 
update as necessary.

Craig
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Re: KR> Landing gear configuration details

[tinyauto via KRnet]

Agree..  When an article appears by Wainfan, I stop and read it!  Kevin 
Golden.Harrisonville, MOSent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Mark Langford via KRnet 
 Date: 1/5/20  9:18 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: KRnet 
 Cc: Mark Langford  Subject: KR> Landing 
gear configuration details Kitplanes is doing more web-based content these 
days, and one of the links they sent me recently is pretty germane to some of 
the discussions we've had about gear and the resulting fuselage angle and 
flying characteristic ramifications.  I found it interesting anyway...another 
great one from Barnaby Wainfan.   
Seehttps://www.kitplanes.com/design-process-landing-gear-part-6/?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=KITPLANES+Weekly&utm_campaign=KP+Weekly+2019%2F12%2F18If
 you're not getting Kitplanes Magazine, you're really missing out of some good 
stuff.  I read every word when I get them, while Sport Aviation mags stack up, 
still wrapped in plastic and unread.  Maybe someday I'll retire and have a 
little time to look for some gems in those Sport Aviation magazines.-- Mark 
LangfordML@N56ML.comhttp://www.n56ml.com___Search
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KR> Landing gear configuration details

[Mark Langford via KRnet]

Kitplanes is doing more web-based content these days, and one of the 
links they sent me recently is pretty germane to some of the discussions 
we've had about gear and the resulting fuselage angle and flying 
characteristic ramifications.  I found it interesting anyway...another 
great one from Barnaby Wainfan.   See


https://www.kitplanes.com/design-process-landing-gear-part-6/?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=KITPLANES+Weekly&utm_campaign=KP+Weekly+2019%2F12%2F18

If you're not getting Kitplanes Magazine, you're really missing out of 
some good stuff.  I read every word when I get them, while Sport 
Aviation mags stack up, still wrapped in plastic and unread.  Maybe 
someday I'll retire and have a little time to look for some gems in 
those Sport Aviation magazines.

--
Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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Re: KR> landing gear

[Ppaulvsk via KRnet]

Stephen wrote:I believe this is true in Texas too but does vary from state to 
state.

I know the feeling that you're talking about when a highway patrolman passes 
you.  As a heavy haul trucker. I have pulled over dimensional Freight all over 
the country. The maximum width is 102" in all states. It was 96"  back when 
some of us were still in diapers. There are a couple exceptions for certain 
commodities. As in round hay bales and farm equipment in certain states.  
Maximum height is 13 ft 6 in east of the Mississippi. 14 feet west of the 
Mississippi. With Ohio and Minnesota being the exceptions.  When I haul my 
airplane to the airport.  I already have my route planned. As in  back roads. 
Paul ViskBelleville Il.618-406-4705
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Re: KR> Landing gear

[Teate, Stephen via KRnet]

"maximum width that you can be without a permit is 8' 6""

I believe this is true in Texas too but does vary from state to state. However, 
I will say that when you are transporting a plane down the highway it is 
amazing at what people notice. I moved my Diehl casting outside of the 
propeller slip stream to avoid the energize flow of that region. To compensate 
for that I laminated a 1/4" piece of plywood to the aft side of my main spar 
from bracket to bracket. No real engineering, I just thought the additional 
sheer web should be adequate. This was before I saw the spar test that Mark 
mentioned. If I had seen that I would never have added the plywood. 
Anyway the result was that my tires will no longer fit on my goose neck trailer 
so I had to make special ramps to get the airplane on the trailer. The ramps 
that were attached to the trailer had to be removed because they interfered 
with the new ones. No big deal, pull a cotter pin, pull the one inch steel pin 
for each ramp and they are off. What never crossed my mind was that the trailer 
license plate was mounted to the bottom of one of those ramps so that when it 
gets flipped up for transport you can see the plate. Long story short, not only 
was I over width, I didn't have a tag on my trailer at all! I got passed by a 
State Trooper and a local Police Officer on the way to the  airport and neither 
one ever slowed down. I am not suggesting you do this but if you do you might 
just get away with it.

Stephen Teate
Paradise, Texas


Paul ViskBelleville Il.618-406-4705
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Re: KR> Landing gear

[Mark Langford via KRnet]

Paul Visk wrote:

> Another thing I'm worrying about being that the gear mounts or so far 
out from center is that on a hard landing the center spar would snap in 
half. <


I can answer that one for you.  I broke the fiberglass gear leg off 
clean when I had to put N56ML into a pasture, and the spar never 
noticed.  I'm pretty sure that same concern is what the "locate as close 
as possible to the fuselage" instruction is aimed at.  But if you saw 
the spar test that we had at the Gathering about ten years ago, you 
would have no fears of the  main spar snapping.  The force of the crash 
would certainly kill you by itself, if the impact was hard enough to 
break the spar.  To my knowledge, nobody has managed to break a main 
spar yet, even in a serious crash, and certainly not in anything that 
resembles a controlled landing.  I've seen WAFs tear out of the spar, 
and a broken outer spar, but the plane was in a million pieces too.


Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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KR> Landing gear

[Ppaulvsk via KRnet]

My main gear wheels are just outside the wing attach mounts.  I forgot to take 
in account the wheel fairings so to be able to trailer the airplane legally I 
would have to take the fairings off cuz the maximum width that you can be 
without a permit is 8' 6".  Another thing I'm worrying about being that the 
gear mounts or so far out from center is that on a hard landing the center spar 
would snap in half. 


Paul ViskBelleville Il.618-406-4705
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Re: KR> landing gear

[Mark Wegmet via KRnet]

Which one gives better ground handling though? Isn't that what we are
looking for?

Mark W.
N952MW

-
Mark L wrote...

...gear leg castings as close as possible to the fuselage.  This yielded an
airplane that just 
barely fits into the back of a typical U-Haul

N56ML's castings were located considerably further out the spar to give 
it a wider stance...

Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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Re: KR> landing gear

[Mark Langford via KRnet]

Bob Russell wrote:

>>I am changing the gear on GSJS to fixed and I have my castings to 
fasten to the spar. I am just not sure of the proper placement and the 
archives appear to be having a problem. Can someone tell me how far 
inboard from the stub wing tip they should be? <<


I believe N891JF was built per the plans, with gear leg castings as 
close as possible to the fuselage.  This yielded an airplane that just 
barely fits into the back of a typical U-Haul trucka consideration 
that can be very important if (when) you need to take advantage of it!


N56ML's castings were located considerably further out the spar to give 
it a wider stance, but it always craps out near home, so I just replace 
the tailwheel with a trailer hitch and tow it home on its wheels, which 
can be very convenient.  Not sure how that would work towing a thousand 
miles though!


Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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Re: KR> landing gear

[Flesner via KRnet]

I am changing the gear on GSJS to fixed and I have my castings to fasten to the 
spar.
Bob

+++

Bob,

I think the answer is "where would you like them to be mounted"?

Larry Flesner

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Re: KR> landing gear

[Randall Smith via KRnet]

I can tell you my gear was 8‘6“ from center to center of the wheel I’m not sure 
how far that put the brackets from the fuselage but I was thinking it’s right 
around 18 inches

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 29, 2018, at 1:46 PM, Chris Gardiner via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> Bob,
> The Diehl plans say to place them as close to the fuselage as possible.
> Use the appropriate AN bolts and lock nuts to mount to the spar.
> Regards
> Chris Gardiner
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On May 28, 2018, at 9:27 PM, Robert Russell via KRnet  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I am changing the gear on GSJS to fixed and I have my castings to fasten to 
>> the spar. I am just not sure of the proper placement and the archives appear 
>> to be having a problem. Can someone tell me how far inboard from the stub 
>> wing tip they should be? 
>> 
>> Thanks 
>> Bob 
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Re: KR> landing gear

[Chris Gardiner via KRnet]

Bob,
The Diehl plans say to place them as close to the fuselage as possible.
Use the appropriate AN bolts and lock nuts to mount to the spar.
Regards
Chris Gardiner

Sent from my iPad

> On May 28, 2018, at 9:27 PM, Robert Russell via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> I am changing the gear on GSJS to fixed and I have my castings to fasten to 
> the spar. I am just not sure of the proper placement and the archives appear 
> to be having a problem. Can someone tell me how far inboard from the stub 
> wing tip they should be? 
> 
> Thanks 
> Bob 
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Re: KR> landing gear

[Flesner via KRnet]

On 5/28/2018 8:27 PM, Robert Russell via KRnet wrote:

I am changing the gear on GSJS to fixed and I have my castings to fasten to the 
spar. I am just not sure of the proper placement and the archives appear to be 
having a problem. Can someone tell me how far inboard from the stub wing tip 
they should be?
Bob

++

I recall the Diehl plans call for them to be placed near the fuselage.  
I moved mine outboard a bit for a wider stance and with my "stretch" it 
worked out just fine.  The outside of my wheels are even with the end of 
the stub wing.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/giqgoybe8r1l7z3/002.jpg?dl=0

Larry Flesner

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Re: KR> landing gear

[Robert Russell via KRnet]

OOOps... I also meant to ask what bolts to fasten and also Mark Langford, you 
mentioned on your site about blind nuts so the legs can be taken off for 
sanding the leading edge. What bolts etc. do you recommend?
Thanks
Bob R
Winnipeg

- Original Message -
From: "Robert Russell via KRnet" 
To: "KRnet" 
Cc: pi...@mymts.net
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2018 8:27:08 PM
Subject: KR> landing gear

I am changing the gear on GSJS to fixed and I have my castings to fasten to the 
spar. I am just not sure of the proper placement and the archives appear to be 
having a problem. Can someone tell me how far inboard from the stub wing tip 
they should be? 

Thanks 
Bob 
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KR> landing gear

[Robert Russell via KRnet]

I am changing the gear on GSJS to fixed and I have my castings to fasten to the 
spar. I am just not sure of the proper placement and the archives appear to be 
having a problem. Can someone tell me how far inboard from the stub wing tip 
they should be? 

Thanks 
Bob 
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Re: KR> landing gear question

[Mark Langford via KRnet]

Bob Russell wrote:

>> I picked up the landing gear yesterday from the guy I bought C-GSJS 
from. It is ( I think) from a Grumman or something similar. The 
fireglass legs are quite wide and heavy so will need to be cut down and 
streamlined and the axles are 1.5 in. I am wondering if there are wheels 
I can use fort he KR with that axle size or if I need to come up with a 
different plan.I did search the archives and came across a thread where 
someone made their gear legs from the bar used in the original retracts. <<


Those 1.5" axles are for 600x6 wheels, which are rather large for a 
KR...they look like tundra tires to me.  Most use the 500x5 wheels, 
which have 1.25" axles, but are otherwise similar.
A quick trip to Aircraft Spruce and a search for "axle" will explain a 
lot about this.  Some older KRs even use solid steel 5/8" axles, but 
they are really not up to the job for a heavier KR, and are marginal for 
a light one.


See 
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?cache=4fad7ef2ac4e5a6506201fe0c54e5744&filter=&perpage=all&pageno=1 



Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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KR> landing gear question

[Robert Russell via KRnet]

I picked up the landing gear yesterday from the guy I bought C-GSJS from. It is 
( I think) from a Grumman or something similar. The fireglass legs are quite 
wide and heavy so will need to be cut down and streamlined and the axles are 
1.5 in. I am wondering if there are wheels I can use fort he KR with that axle 
size or if I need to come up with a different plan.I did search the archives 
and came across a thread where someone made their gear legs from the bar used 
in the original retracts. 
Everyday is a new research area. Thanks for all the feedback guys. 
Bob R 
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KR> Landing gear

[S B]

Owen,

I used a cut-in-four Corvette leaf spring for my tailwheel spring, it seems to 
be well adapted for that use. However, I consider it is not thick and large 
enough for a KR-2S main gear leg.
By the way, the Corvette leaf spring is fiberglass and not carbon fiber.

Regards,

Stefan Balatchev
Ottawa, ON, Canada

I would be tempted to look at the carbon fiber leaf springs from a junked very 
low milage Corvette or NOS. The Corvette carbon springs are light, high 
modulus, and remarkably cheap. I think they can be machined down to provide a 
lighter spring rate if thats desired.

KR> Landing gear

[svd]

Hi Bill,

With the hesitation that (in my sometimes bitter, sometimes sweet experience) 
any deviation from the well trodden path leads to excessive completion delays 
and unpredictable results, this is after all ?experimental? aviation. 

The project I took on already had gear, but if I was at that stage I would be 
tempted to look at the carbon fiber leaf springs from a junked very low milage 
Corvette or NOS.  The Corvette carbon springs are light, high modulus, and 
remarkably cheap. I think they can be machined down to provide a lighter spring 
rate if thats desired.  

On the other hand, the new Sonex gear is Titanium and they certainly know about 
these carbon springs, so there may very well be a good reason they wouldn?t 
work well.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corvette_leaf_spring 


http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-96-Corvette-C4-REAR-Fiberglass-Mono-Leaf-Spring-NYR-/371806860016?hash=item56916a72f0:g:KD8AAOSw4GVYRaGa&vxp=mtr
 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOkahjvooRY 


Cheers,
Owen Hughes


Bill - reading the well trodden path, I also noticed this:

https://longisland.craigslist.org/for/5892694326.html 
 

or 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KR2-Aircraft-Deihl-Aero-Nautical-Landing-Gear-Kit-Brakes-Wheels-Tires-New-/291951590750
 




On Dec 10, 2016, at 9:00 AM, krnet-request at list.krnet.org 
 wrote:

Message: 1
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Fri, 9 Dec 2016 15:58:32 -0500
From: "ol' weirdo" mailto:wmiweir at gmail.com>>
To: krnet at list.krnet.org 
Subject: KR> DIEHL LANDING GEAR LEGS
Message-ID:
mailto:CADs5vE3KvHnwGnPQ9W0oa7=Y4C-B4xerTXiQdZuNBLTa1vDRpQ at mail.gmail.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Would someone be kind enough to submit to the group or to me the size of
the blank one must have to cut out the Diehl landing gear legs. With the
Canadian dollar trading at 75 cent US the thought importing them just
doesn't exist. And there is a firm nearby that sells cutoffs.

Thanks

Bill Weir

KR> Landing Gear legs

[Stef den Boer]

Hi Stan,

We use the old type landing gear. It is all 7075T6 alluminium. 3 brackets aft of
the fwd spar. I think this one give you more propclearce.

I think the aluminium gear is more weight than the new glass system.

On my website you see 3 KR2s. The PH-OMI and the PH-MIJ uses the old aluminium.
The PH- KRS is using the new system. At the page flight controlls you see the 3
brackets.

Stef


> 
> Op 2 september 2016 om 4:43 schreef Mark Langford via KRnet
> :
> 
> 
> Stan wrote:
> 
> > I was looking in to the landing gear for a Kr2S
> > Would I be ahead to bend something like this in the press brake or go
> > the Deli Gear route?
> 




> 
> been a function of loading though. That's all I can offer you on that
> comparison...no real facts.
> 
> See http://www.n56ml.com/kgear.html for more on what Diehl gear looks
> like. nvAero sells them now, as well as Scotchply gear legs.
> 
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> http://www.n56ml.com
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
> slight amount more damping. That might have
> 

Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2
http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2

KR> Landing Gear legs

[Mark Langford]

Stan wrote:

 > I was looking in to the landing gear for a Kr2S
 > Would I be ahead to bend something like this in the press brake or go
 > the Deli Gear route?

The Diehl gear consists of two cast aluminum spar brackets, two lower 
axle attach brackets, and two Scotchply fiberglass gear legs connecting 
the two.

I don't have personal experience with the aluminum gear legs, which is 
why I haven't piped up on this until now.  But I do know somebody that 
had it, Troy Petteway.  I believe his plane used the normal spar 
castings, but he used aluminum gear legs. He got them from Steve 
Bennett.  That way there's no bending involved.  He did manage to break 
one in an engine-out landing on curvy road, but I have also broken a 
Scotchply gear in a similar situation.  My first landing was 5.5g's, so 
they were already proven to exceed the design parameters.

  It obviously works, but I wouldn't want to put a continuous aluminum 
gear leg under my plane unless I'd built a bunch of them and they tested 
with no failures (think minimum bend radius stuff), or somebody else had 
done the same.  Grove Aircraft makes bent aluminum gear that is one 
piece, and I'm pretty sure Rand Robinson sold something similar, if not 
exactly that. See http://www.groveaircraft.com/landing_gear.html for 
plenty of options. They also sell aluminum gear legs that could be used 
with spar brackets.

Troy's opinion was that the aluminum was more springy than the 
Scotchply, which has some slight amount more damping. That might have 
been a function of loading though.  That's all I can offer you on that 
comparison...no real facts.

See http://www.n56ml.com/kgear.html for more on what Diehl gear looks 
like.  nvAero sells them now, as well as Scotchply gear legs.

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> Landing Gear legs

[Tommy Waymack]

With extensive mods all bets are off.Good luck.Both options are good.Tommy W

On Wed, Aug 31, 2016 at 9:11 PM, Global Solutions via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Hi Folks
> I was looking in to the landing gear for a Kr2S. The boat is going to be
> 6" wider then the stock plans.
> I was looking at the NVaero site and they have the castings for the Deli
> gear which because they have no picture I am guessing I would still need to
> make the actual legs. they also do not specify if the castings they sell
> are priced each or for the pair.
> I then came across this which is made from Material: 7075-T6 Aluminum
> KR2 One Piece Landing Gear
> The airport I have access to for the moment is a grass strip and I was
> thinking the aluminum may act as a bit of a shock suppressor and may be
> lighter then the wood/glass that others have used.
> Would I be ahead to bend something like this in the press brake or go the
> Deli Gear route?
>
> Also I was thinking of going with MATCO brakes as per NVAERO or am I
> better off with Cleveland or some other brand. I also noted on Mark
> Landfords site that he played with wheel sizes. What is the overall
> consences with respect to tire size?
>
> Thanks
> Stan
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Landing Gear legs

[Global Solutions]

Hi Folks
I was looking in to the landing gear for a Kr2S. The boat is going to be 
6" wider then the stock plans.
I was looking at the NVaero site and they have the castings for the Deli 
gear which because they have no picture I am guessing I would still need 
to make the actual legs. they also do not specify if the castings they 
sell are priced each or for the pair.
I then came across this which is made from Material: 7075-T6 Aluminum
KR2 One Piece Landing Gear
The airport I have access to for the moment is a grass strip and I was 
thinking the aluminum may act as a bit of a shock suppressor and may be 
lighter then the wood/glass that others have used.
Would I be ahead to bend something like this in the press brake or go 
the Deli Gear route?

Also I was thinking of going with MATCO brakes as per NVAERO or am I 
better off with Cleveland or some other brand. I also noted on Mark 
Landfords site that he played with wheel sizes. What is the overall 
consences with respect to tire size?

Thanks
Stan

KR> Landing gear question

[Jeff Scott]

?
?


>I recently bought a couple of gear legs that are fiberglass and for
>a Grumman Should I make them narrower or thinner
>Mark W.
+

Seeing no replies to your question I'll offer my "opinion". If you
are building a tail dragger I'd leave them full length. A nose
dragger may require you to shorten them to match the nose gear. If
you expect your KR to come in around the 700-750 pound range, many do
now days, I'd leave them original thickness and cut them to the
contour of the Diehl legs. I've got 30" Diehl gear legs and I
thickened them a bit. That's my "opinion" based on my
experience. Jeff Scott has the only other set of 30" inch legs and I
don't know if he "thickened" them or not. Mine seemed to be a bit
soft with two people , early in the build process.

Larry Flesner

---

My gear legs have the micro with soda straws formed into the leading and 
trailing edges for brake lines and a wrap of BID glass to finish.  I've been 
pounding this poor plane on the ground relentlessly for over 1100 hours, 
usually at or near 1200#, and have never had any issues related to the landing 
gear.  Mine are a bit softer than many others, but that doesn't seem to affect 
them adversely. Soft gear makes for smooth landings.  :o)

Like Larry, I think I would taper them to match the contour of the Diehl gear, 
give them a wrap with glass to finish and call it close enough.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamso, NM

KR> Landing gear question

[Larry Flesner]

>   Mine are a bit softer than many others, but that doesn't seem to 
> affect them adversely. Soft gear makes for smooth landings.  :o)
>Like Larry, I think I would taper them to match the contour of the 
>Diehl gear, give them a wrap with glass to finish and call it close 
>enough. -Jeff Scott

+++

I finished mine using a piece of foam (approx 1") on lead and trail 
edge.  I hogged out a channel on the lead edge before attaching for 
the brake line.  I rounded the lead edge foam and tapered the trail 
edge and wrapped the entire thing with a layer of glass.  Not a great 
photo but if you zoom in a bit you can see the 
gear.  https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/100_5553.JPG

This photo shows the brake line running through the landing light 
area and then down the lead edge of the 
leg.  http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/02092583.jpg   If I ever 
need to get to the gear leg attach bracket I can cut out the foam on 
the back side of this opening.  I located the light in that area for 
that purpose but a better spot for the light is outside the prop arc 
unless the back side of the prop is painted black.  If it's not black 
you see a giant prop reflection at night and when else do you need 
the light, unless of course you have flashing landing lights for 
daylight recognition.  That's one of those "don't ask me how I know" deals.

Larry Flesner

KR> Landing gear question

[Sid Wood]

Mark,
I used the same Grumman gear leg blanks you describe.  I ran them through my 
wood power planer to 3/4 inch thickness and tapered with a sweep back to get 
20 inches for the wheel axil from the leading edge of the stub wing for the 
stock KR-2.  The amount of sweep will depend on tail dragger or nose dragger 
configuration; they are NOT interchangeable.  I used the full 26 inch 
length.  I used the original Diehl casting to mount to the aft face of the 
main spar.I rounded the leading and trailing edges for stream lining and 
stress riser relief,  I put soda straws in the trailing edges, wrapped with 
fiberglass and foam, for brake line conduits.  Have done lots of taxi 
testing and on a particularly bad speed bump at a taxiway intersection.  The 
gross weight is 1170 pounds.  No problem so far.  No landings yet on these 
gear legs.  Expect to fly soon as the weather cooperates.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

--
I recently bought a couple of gear legs that are fiberglass and for a 
Grumman which have indicated that they will support a 2200 to 2400 pound 
aircraft. Obviously a KR as about 2/3's to 1/2's  that. Should I make them 
narrower or thinner (i.e., split them to reduce the thickness by about 50%) 
or narrower (i.e., make the width about 1/3 less than they are now)? They 
measure 3 3/4" X 1" at the bottom and 7 3/4" X 1" at the top and are 26 1/2" 
long.

I think the length is good, but the other dimensions will be too stiff.

What do you guys think? Thanks.

Mark W.
N952MW (res)

---
I left my legs the same thickness and extrapolated dimensions from some 
pictures and a visit to some airplanes.I'm tapering the front and back edges 
to help forum the round nose and tapered trailing edge.
Paul ViskBelleville IL618,406 4705

+

Seeing no replies to your question I'll offer my "opinion".  If you
are building a tail dragger I'd leave them full length.  A nose
dragger may require you to shorten them to match the nose gear.  If
you expect your KR to come in around the 700-750 pound range, many do
now days, I'd leave them original thickness and cut them to the
contour of the Diehl legs.  I've got 30" Diehl gear legs and I
thickened them a bit.  That's my "opinion" based on my
experience.  Jeff Scott has the only other set of 30" inch legs and I
don't know if he "thickened" them or not.  Mine seemed to be a bit
soft with two people , early in the build process.

Larry Flesner
---

My gear legs have the micro with soda straws formed into the leading and 
trailing edges for brake lines and a wrap of BID glass to finish.  I've been 
pounding this poor plane on the ground relentlessly for over 1100 hours, 
usually at or near 1200#, and have never had any issues related to the 
landing gear.  Mine are a bit softer than many others, but that doesn't seem 
to affect them adversely. Soft gear makes for smooth landings.  :o)

Like Larry, I think I would taper them to match the contour of the Diehl 
gear, give them a wrap with glass to finish and call it close enough.

-Jeff Scott

KR> Landing gear question

[Larry Flesner]

At 06:33 PM 5/8/2016, you wrote:
>I recently bought a couple of gear legs that are fiberglass and for 
>a Grumman  Should I make them narrower or thinner
>Mark W.
+

Seeing no replies to your question I'll offer my "opinion".  If you 
are building a tail dragger I'd leave them full length.  A nose 
dragger may require you to shorten them to match the nose gear.  If 
you expect your KR to come in around the 700-750 pound range, many do 
now days, I'd leave them original thickness and cut them to the 
contour of the Diehl legs.  I've got 30" Diehl gear legs and I 
thickened them a bit.  That's my "opinion" based on my 
experience.  Jeff Scott has the only other set of 30" inch legs and I 
don't know if he "thickened" them or not.  Mine seemed to be a bit 
soft with two people , early in the build process.

Larry Flesner 

KR> Landing gear question

[Paul Visk]

I have the same legs. ?I left my legs the same thickness and extrapolated 
dimensions from some pictures and a visit to some airplanes.I'm tapering the 
front and back edges to help forum the round nose and tapered trailing edge.
Paul ViskBelleville IL618,406 4705



Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4

 Original message 
From: Mark Wegmet via KRnet  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 05/08/2016  6:33 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: 'KRnet'  
Cc: Mark Wegmet  
Subject: KR> Landing gear question 

I recently bought a couple of gear legs that are fiberglass and for a Grumman 
which have indicated that they will support a 2200 to .

I think the length is good, but the other dimensions will be too stiff.

What do you guys think? Thanks.

Mark W.
N952MW (res)

KR> Landing gear question

[Mark Wegmet]

I recently bought a couple of gear legs that are fiberglass and for a Grumman 
which have indicated that they will support a 2200 to 2400 pound aircraft. 
Obviously a KR as about 2/3's to 1/2's  that. Should I make them narrower or 
thinner (i.e., split them to reduce the thickness by about 50%) or narrower 
(i.e., make the width about 1/3 less than they are now)? They measure 3 3/4" X 
1" at the bottom and 7 3/4" X 1" at the top and are 26 1/2" long.

I think the length is good, but the other dimensions will be too stiff.

What do you guys think? Thanks.

Mark W.
N952MW (res)


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

KR> LANDING GEAR

[samantha toner]

Hi Steve what have you now got for 350?? I don't understand 

On Monday, 22 February 2016, 17:50, Steve G. via KRnet  wrote:


 We now have a gram and gear at $350 at sets. $425 at set if you want them Cut 
to shape. If you want them faced from 1 inch to three quarters add another $25. 
If you would prefer, we can leave them at 26 inches instead of 24.

Steve Glover

Sent from my electronic leash. 

> On Feb 22, 2016, at 09:31, tinyauto via KRnet  wrote:
> 
> I drug one home to cut on and see if it would work.? It cuts about as easy as 
> any thick fiberglass but the rubber bump stops are hard to get off.? Never 
> put it on a plane but I think it would work.
> 
> Kevin Golden
> Harrisonville MO
> Streak Shadow
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung Mobile.
> 
>  Original message From: ol' weirdo via KRnet 
>  Date:02/22/2016? 10:17 AM? (GMT-06:00) 
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org Cc: ol' weirdo  gmail.com> Subject: KR> LANDING GEAR 
> Has anyone used the "plastic" spring from a Pontiac van for landing 
> gear? I
> know it is pretty heavy to start with. Can it be cut?
> 
> Bill Weir
> 
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email>
> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
> ___
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> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.orgto change options

KR> LANDING GEAR

[Larry Flesner]

>
>I have new Grumman fiberglass gear legs. They are 26 inches long.
>Steve Glover
++

I'd suggest leaving them at 26 inches, regardless of the model you 
build.  Mine are 30 inches and with a 24 inch fuselage stretch they 
are just right.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8669.JPG

Larry Flesner

KR> LANDING GEAR

[Virgil N. Salisbury]

Check the Archives. One was from a Chevy Astro, Virg


On 2/22/2016 11:17 AM, ol' weirdo via KRnet wrote:
> Has anyone used the "plastic" spring from a Pontiac van for landing gear? I
> know it is pretty heavy to start with. Can it be cut?
>
> Bill Weir
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com 
> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options
>

KR> LANDING GEAR

[tinyauto]

I drug one home to cut on and see if it would work. ?It cuts about as easy as 
any thick fiberglass but the rubber bump stops are hard to get off. ?Never put 
it on a plane but I think it would work.

Kevin Golden
Harrisonville MO
Streak Shadow


Sent from Samsung Mobile.

 Original message From: ol' weirdo via KRnet 
 Date:02/22/2016  10:17 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: krnet at list.krnet.org Cc: ol' weirdo  Subject: KR> LANDING GEAR 
Has anyone used the "plastic" spring from a Pontiac van for landing gear? 
I
know it is pretty heavy to start with. Can it be cut?

Bill Weir

This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email>
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
___
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To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
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options

KR> LANDING GEAR

[ol' weirdo]

Has anyone used the "plastic" spring from a Pontiac van for landing gear? I
know it is pretty heavy to start with. Can it be cut?

Bill Weir

This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
www.avast.com 
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

KR> LANDING GEAR

[Steve G.]

I have new Grumman fiberglass gear legs. They are 26 inches long. 

Steve Glover

Sent from my electronic leash. 

> On Feb 22, 2016, at 10:26, samantha toner via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Steve what have you now got for 350 ? I don't understand 
> 
>On Monday, 22 February 2016, 17:50, Steve G. via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> 
> We now have a gram and gear at $350 at sets. $425 at set if you want them Cut 
> to shape. If you want them faced from 1 inch to three quarters add another 
> $25. If you would prefer, we can leave them at 26 inches instead of 24.
> 
> Steve Glover
> 
> Sent from my electronic leash. 
> 
>> On Feb 22, 2016, at 09:31, tinyauto via KRnet  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I drug one home to cut on and see if it would work.  It cuts about as easy 
>> as any thick fiberglass but the rubber bump stops are hard to get off.  
>> Never put it on a plane but I think it would work.
>> 
>> Kevin Golden
>> Harrisonville MO
>> Streak Shadow
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from Samsung Mobile.
>> 
>>  Original message --------From: ol' weirdo via KRnet 
>>  Date:02/22/2016  10:17 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
>> To: krnet at list.krnet.org Cc: ol' weirdo > gmail.com> Subject: KR> LANDING GEAR 
>> Has anyone used the "plastic" spring from a Pontiac van for landing 
>> gear? I
>> know it is pretty heavy to start with. Can it be cut?
>> 
>> Bill Weir
>> 
>> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
>> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email>
>> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.orgto change 
>> options
>> ___
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>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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>> options
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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KR> LANDING GEAR

[Steve G.]

We now have a gram and gear at $350 at sets. $425 at set if you want them Cut 
to shape. If you want them faced from 1 inch to three quarters add another $25. 
If you would prefer, we can leave them at 26 inches instead of 24.

Steve Glover

Sent from my electronic leash. 

> On Feb 22, 2016, at 09:31, tinyauto via KRnet  wrote:
> 
> I drug one home to cut on and see if it would work.  It cuts about as easy as 
> any thick fiberglass but the rubber bump stops are hard to get off.  Never 
> put it on a plane but I think it would work.
> 
> Kevin Golden
> Harrisonville MO
> Streak Shadow
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung Mobile.
> 
>  Original message From: ol' weirdo via KRnet 
>  Date:02/22/2016  10:17 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org Cc: ol' weirdo  gmail.com> Subject: KR> LANDING GEAR 
> Has anyone used the "plastic" spring from a Pontiac van for landing 
> gear? I
> know it is pretty heavy to start with. Can it be cut?
> 
> Bill Weir
> 
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email>
> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options

KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

[Mark Langford]

Somebody asked about having shims made.  One way to do it if it's not 
too bad it to cut them out of aluminum, which only requires a drill bit 
and a cheap tin snip from Harbor Freight.  I made these for N56ML, 
"temporarily", and like a lot of things, they ended up doing 2825 
landings.  So they do work.  Each of these two in the enclosed picture 
is .020" thick, and I estimate that each is good for about .9 degrees of 
toe-in or -out, camber, or the combination when overlapping (as in the 
photo).  The dotted red line denotes useless material (based on wear 
marks) that I shouldn't have been carry around all those years.

You can probably pick up aluminum from some airport scraps, or buy a 
1'x1' piece from AS&S for cheap...but then there's shipping.  Make sure 
you clamp the piece to the table when drilling...this stuff is thin 
enough to cut you.  I almost lost a fingertip this way when I was in 
college...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

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KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

[John Martindale]

Hi Jeff

I did something similar. I just set the toe in and camber using those offset
washers as required between the axle plate and the leg bracket. Then I just
forced epoxy and flox into the gap until it squeezed out the other side. I
smeared the faces lightly with vaseline to prevent bondage. In situ poured
shims you might say :-)

One other thing..both toe in and camber will vary with aircraft weight
due to the offset angle of the gear legs.

And another..  You need to set both with wheels on ball bearing plates
because the friction of the tyres on hanger floor affects the results
depending on whether the aircraft is rolled forward or backward. 

Too whroo

John Martindale
29 Jane Circuit
Toormina NSW 2452
Australia

ph:61 2 6658 4767
m:0403 432179
email:john_martindale at bigpond.com

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Jeff Scott
via KRnet
Sent: Tuesday, 24 March 2015 9:03 AM
To: smwood at md.metrocast.net; krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: Re: KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

You guys are supposed to be airplane builders with skills snip



-
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KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

[Jeff Scott]

You guys are supposed to be airplane builders with skills to build composite 
parts.  Fabricate a small box with the appropriate slant to it for the shims 
you need, then lay up a shim with the dimensions you need. If it's not quite 
right, you can grind, file or cut to suit yourself.  Do a test fit to see if 
it's right, then when you install it, bed it in a thin slurry of milled fibers 
for a no slip perfect fit.  If you have to go a bit oversized on the holes 
through the gear leg to get a proper fit (and keep the bolts straight), grease 
your bolts up with wax (so you can get them back out and backfill the holes 
with a milled fiber slurry.

Additionally, try to drill things so your bolts are straight and use a set of 
self aligning washers on the side where the head of the bolt or nut appears to 
be an an angle to the surface.  Self aligning washers are a pair of washers, 
one with a concave surface and the other with a convex surface. The concave 
surface of one washer sits on the convex surface of the second washer allowing 
them to cock off sideways from the bolt head and adapt to the surface of the 
gear leg.   When you pull a bolt down onto them with a hole that isn't normal 
to the head of the bolt, the two washers will swivel a bit to properly 
distribute the pull of the bolt onto the surface without side loading the axle 
attach bolt.  Just google "self aligning washers".

I used this technique to repair the landing gear on a GlasAir that had the gear 
badly misaligned, then the holes overdrilled and the bolts literally bent in 
the bolt holes hanging onto the axles.  

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

[Sid Wood]

Dave,
Sounds like you have already drilled the holes for the lower ends of the 
gear legs.  If not, clamp in place and drill the holes for the legs and 
brackets; no shims needed.  If so, try Aircraft Spruce 
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/lg/axlesandaxlenuts_shims.html
 
Need to get more correction: get two or three kits and double up.  The "how 
to" guide on the AS page may be of some use. 
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/axleShims.php
With the Whitman type spring gear (Diehl) what is the concern with camber?

Reversing the Diehl gear legs is not a practical thing to do.  The shapes of 
the gear legs for the tri-gear versus the tail-dragger are different and not 
interchangeable.  Using the tail-dragger legs for the tri-gear will set your 
main wheels 3-inches further forward from where they need to be.  The axle 
center should be 20 inches aft from the leading edge of the stub wing. 
Otherwise the airplane tends to fall on the tail when you climb aboard or 
dismount.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

From: Dave Acklam 
Due to my use of 'conventional Diehl gear-legs, reversed' to make a
tri-gear config, I need 7.5 degrees camber & 7 degrees toe in order to
track straight

The only source of pre-made shims I know of (Grove) sells them for 25/ea,
but only in increments up to 3/4-degree (Toe) and 2 degree (Camber).

Anyone have an idea on where to get larger-angle shims made?

KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

[Dave Acklam]

I actually had an idea along these lines, as a solution to this problem...

If I were to stack enough washers under the axle-attach bracket to bring
the gear into alignment, coat the attach-bolts & bracket with grease as a
release-agent, and seal the bottom 3 sides with tape

I could then pour a suitable 'structural filler' (Hysol 960F, or (if we're
going to be redneck about it) JBWeld should work) in from the top and
create composite shims with a perfect clamping-surface...

That said, Mark L & everyone else seemed to be using fabricated metal, so I
thought I'd investigate that option first...

On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Jeff Scott via KRnet 
wrote:

> You guys are supposed to be airplane builders with skills to build
> composite parts.  Fabricate a small box with the appropriate slant to it
> for the shims you need, then lay up a shim with the dimensions you need. If
> it's not quite right, you can grind, file or cut to suit yourself.  Do a
> test fit to see if it's right, then when you install it, bed it in a thin
> slurry of milled fibers for a no slip perfect fit.  If you have to go a bit
> oversized on the holes through the gear leg to get a proper fit (and keep
> the bolts straight), grease your bolts up with wax (so you can get them
> back out and backfill the holes with a milled fiber slurry.
>
> Additionally, try to drill things so your bolts are straight and use a set
> of self aligning washers on the side where the head of the bolt or nut
> appears to be an an angle to the surface.  Self aligning washers are a pair
> of washers, one with a concave surface and the other with a convex surface.
> The concave surface of one washer sits on the convex surface of the second
> washer allowing them to cock off sideways from the bolt head and adapt to
> the surface of the gear leg.   When you pull a bolt down onto them with a
> hole that isn't normal to the head of the bolt, the two washers will swivel
> a bit to properly distribute the pull of the bolt onto the surface without
> side loading the axle attach bolt.  Just google "self aligning washers".
>
> I used this technique to repair the landing gear on a GlasAir that had the
> gear badly misaligned, then the holes overdrilled and the bolts literally
> bent in the bolt holes hanging onto the axles.
>
> -Jeff Scott
> Los Alamos, NM
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

[Dave Acklam]

I bought the legs pre-drilled from another KRlister & at least so far,
other than the 7-degrees-each-side toe-out/8-degrees-camber-out alignment,
they don't seem to be causing trouble with balance on my particular
plane... In it's nose-lightest configuration (eg, fuel tank empty), I can
get in and out without disturbing the plane - although I haven't tried this
with any sort of baggage behind the seats...

They are also expoxied to the aluminum spar-attach mounts, so getting them
off and replacing them (Say, with sawn-in-half Grumman gear legs) would be
rather tough...

This does, however, mean that I am stuck with the hole-pattern I have
now...

If camber-out isn't really a big deal, then that would make shimming
easier



On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 2:17 PM, Sid Wood via KRnet 
wrote:

> Dave,
> Sounds like you have already drilled the holes for the lower ends of the
> gear legs.  If not, clamp in place and drill the holes for the legs and
> brackets; no shims needed.  If so, try Aircraft Spruce
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/
> menus/lg/axlesandaxlenuts_shims.html Need to get more correction: get two
> or three kits and double up.  The "how to" guide on the AS page may be of
> some use. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/axleShims.php
> With the Whitman type spring gear (Diehl) what is the concern with camber?
>
> Reversing the Diehl gear legs is not a practical thing to do.  The shapes
> of the gear legs for the tri-gear versus the tail-dragger are different and
> not interchangeable.  Using the tail-dragger legs for the tri-gear will set
> your main wheels 3-inches further forward from where they need to be.  The
> axle center should be 20 inches aft from the leading edge of the stub wing.
> Otherwise the airplane tends to fall on the tail when you climb aboard or
> dismount.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> 
> From: Dave Acklam 
> Due to my use of 'conventional Diehl gear-legs, reversed' to make a
> tri-gear config, I need 7.5 degrees camber & 7 degrees toe in order to
> track straight
>
> The only source of pre-made shims I know of (Grove) sells them for 25/ea,
> but only in increments up to 3/4-degree (Toe) and 2 degree (Camber).
>
> Anyone have an idea on where to get larger-angle shims made?
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

[Larry]

You may also check with aircraft salvage yards for shims. I've seen lots of 
them in years past on factory built airplanes. Mostly on tail drag airplanes. 
I've seen tiny and large and also large plus tiny on same axle to get the 
proper alignment.
Larry H

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 22, 2015, at 5:47 PM, Flesner via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
>> ..
>> 
>> The only source of pre-made shims I know of (Grove) sells them for 25/ea,
>> but only in increments up to 3/4-degree (Toe) and 2 degree (Camber).
> ++
> 
> Check with a local Ford dealer.  Ford used shims at one time to align front 
> ends on ford trucks.  I know they have them but whether they are useable for 
> landing gear is something you'll have to determine.
> 
> Larry Flesner 
> 
> __

KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

[Flesner]

>..
>
>The only source of pre-made shims I know of (Grove) sells them for 25/ea,
>but only in increments up to 3/4-degree (Toe) and 2 degree (Camber).
++

Check with a local Ford dealer.  Ford used shims at one time to align 
front ends on ford trucks.  I know they have them but whether they 
are useable for landing gear is something you'll have to determine.

Larry Flesner 

KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

[Dan Heath]

I got mine made at a machine shop, not cheap but perfect.



See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



2015 KR Gathering - McMinnville, OR.  September 3 - 6 -- See U There.



Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 



Best Interior and Panel at 2008 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN





Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC





-Original Message-





Anyone have an idea on where to get larger-angle shims made?

KR> Landing Gear Shims - Where to have made

[Dave Acklam]

Due to my use of 'conventional Diehl gear-legs, reversed' to make a
tri-gear config, I need 7.5 degrees camber & 7 degrees toe in order to
track straight

The only source of pre-made shims I know of (Grove) sells them for 25/ea,
but only in increments up to 3/4-degree (Toe) and 2 degree (Camber).

Anyone have an idea on where to get larger-angle shims made?

KR> Landing Gear

[laser147 at juno.com]

I should have done a little looking before commenting that I thought
Grove made the Sonarai gear that Steve sells.  Steve's website shows the
Sonarai gear sells for $495 and is made of 2024-T351, 5/8ths inch thick. 


The Grove gear (Grove is right here on my airport incidentally) is 3/4"
thick and made from 7075-T6.  Cost is $1205.00.  

The reason I thought Grove made the Sonarai gear is that the Grove gear
looks just like my gear.  I wonder why they want so much money.  As
usual, Great Plains has the best prices for just about everything.  

Mike
KSEE




Apple's Crazy New Gizmo
Forget the iPhone 6. Next hit Apple product leaked. (see picture)
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/548cb8a2dabc438a2616cst01vuc

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Sid Wood]

Concur with Larry Flesner regarding using the Yankee gear legs.
You will need a power bench planer to take the stock thickness down to 3/4 
inch.  The fiberglass is abrasive and will dull the planer blades somewhat. 
A metal cutting band saw will do well for cutting the outline.  Getting a 
consistent leg shape can be difficult to achieve without a pattern and pin 
router.  Of concern for the leg shape is getting the correct cant forward 
for tail dragger legs or cant aft for nose wheel installations.  I used 20 
inches for the main wheel location aft of the leading edge of the stub wing. 
With the dog-leg shape, it is not possible to keep the fiberglass grain 
completely straight the entire length of the leg.  Wrapping with 45 degree 
bias fiberglass cloth will definitely help regarding the twisting action. 
Beware of the fiberglass splinters that the planer and saw will create; sand 
every edge smooth to keep those glass splinters out of your hide.
I have my home-built gear legs installed.  Empty weight is 804 pounds 
including ballast.
Worrying about balance issues now.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


--
At 10:56 PM 12/12/2014, you wrote:
>The Yankee leg is 1" thick and I've heard estimates of 3/4" to 1"
>and about 3" wide for the Diehl.  A little change in the thickness
>and stack can make a big difference in the stiffness.


If I were to use the "Yankee" gear leg, I'd have someone send me a
tracing of the Diehl leg on heavy stock, cut the Yankee leg to same
profile keeping the "grain orientation" the same as the Deihl leg,
plane down the leg to the same thickness as the Diehl leg, put a foam
lead and trail edge on the leg for shaping and a tunnel for brake
line, and wrap with two layers of KR cloth.  Put the KR cloth on the
leg "on the bias", 45 degree angle.  I would go with a 25" leg on a
KR2 and a 26 1/2" leg on the 2S (tail dragger) and make any
adjustments to the the three point stance with the tail wheel
spring.  Tri-gear will have to stick with the 24" leg unless
modifying the nose gear assembly.

I was led to believe the Diehl gear material is the same material as
the Yankee gear.  Dan did the testing, including drop test I was
told,  and his setup works just fine.  I wouldn't change a thing.  If
you are building to fly and not as a project for your retirement, go
with what we know works and spend your worry time on other parts of
the project.  I'm still smiling from yesterdays 50 mile flight for
lunch and stop and go landing practice on return.  Get it
built..

Larry Flesner

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Flesner]

At 10:56 PM 12/12/2014, you wrote:
>The Yankee leg is 1" thick and I've heard estimates of 3/4" to 1" 
>and about 3" wide for the Diehl.  A little change in the thickness 
>and stack can make a big difference in the stiffness.


If I were to use the "Yankee" gear leg, I'd have someone send me a 
tracing of the Diehl leg on heavy stock, cut the Yankee leg to same 
profile keeping the "grain orientation" the same as the Deihl leg, 
plane down the leg to the same thickness as the Diehl leg, put a foam 
lead and trail edge on the leg for shaping and a tunnel for brake 
line, and wrap with two layers of KR cloth.  Put the KR cloth on the 
leg "on the bias", 45 degree angle.  I would go with a 25" leg on a 
KR2 and a 26 1/2" leg on the 2S (tail dragger) and make any 
adjustments to the the three point stance with the tail wheel 
spring.  Tri-gear will have to stick with the 24" leg unless 
modifying the nose gear assembly.

I was led to believe the Diehl gear material is the same material as 
the Yankee gear.  Dan did the testing, including drop test I was 
told,  and his setup works just fine.  I wouldn't change a thing.  If 
you are building to fly and not as a project for your retirement, go 
with what we know works and spend your worry time on other parts of 
the project.  I'm still smiling from yesterdays 50 mile flight for 
lunch and stop and go landing practice on return.  Get it 
built..

Larry Flesner 

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Jeff Scott]

I wouldn't have an issue with using the Grumman gear legs, but I would 
certainly give serious consideration to cutting them down to add some flex to 
them. As Pete points out, they are quite stiff as they are designed for a much 
heavier aircraft than even the fattest KR.  

When Dan Diehl first saw my KR with the 30" Diehl gear legs, he told me he was 
concerned about having the 30" length of gear leg vs the standard 24" leg.  
When I asked why, Dan told me he had never done any drop testing with anything 
other than the 24" gear legs, so was concerned about the leverage of the 30" 
legs on the upper gear mount castings.  This was back in 1997.  It wasn't too 
many years prior to that time when Dan had recalled all of the aluminum lower 
gear leg castings and replaced them with welded steel mounts, so his concern 
was justified.  In the years since, a number of KRs have broken their gear legs 
in crashes, but I haven't heard of any failed gear mount castings.  However, I 
would be very cautious about using a super stiff leg mounted to the same 
aluminum casting.  

I'll try to remember to take a measurement on my 30" legs tomorrow.  The Diehl 
legs are cut to a taper, which makes them more flexible towards the wheel end 
of the gear leg.  My 30" legs are quite soft.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


> Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 at 9:56 PM
> From: "Pete and Karen Gauthier via KRnet" 
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Subject: Re: KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS
>
>
> I had a mishap involving a broken rudder peddle assembly and partialy 
> developed ground loop (partially developed because at 90 deg. the gear legs 
> parted the aircraft and terminated the loop).  I have the Yankee legs and I 
> am trying to determine a spring constant to design my replacement legs.  Dan 
> Prichrd gave me a scrap from his Yankee leg and I have been doing some 
> load/deflection testing. I don't have a clue what the stack is but I'm 
> reasonably sure it's symetrical based on the striations in the profile cut.  
> It's looking to me like the 1" yankee leg is going to be real stiff for my 
> 600# KR2.  I'm beginning to think the Diehl leg might be a better choice in 
> my case and would like to know a bit more about them.  I have asked Steve 
> GLover for dimensions but haven't heard from him.  Can anybody give me 
> measured dimensions of a diehl leg?  The Yankee leg is 1" thick and I've 
> heard estimates of 3/4" to 1" and about 3" wide for the Diehl.  A little 
> change in the thickness and stack can make a big difference in the stiffness. 
>  Does anyone have, or know a source for, a set of the 30" legs they care to 
> part with? I may be interested!
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Pete Gauthier,  
> 
> Woodburn, OR (real close to McMinnville) 
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Pete and Karen Gauthier]

I had a mishap involving a broken rudder peddle assembly and partialy developed 
ground loop (partially developed because at 90 deg. the gear legs parted the 
aircraft and terminated the loop).  I have the Yankee legs and I am trying to 
determine a spring constant to design my replacement legs.  Dan Prichrd gave me 
a scrap from his Yankee leg and I have been doing some load/deflection testing. 
I don't have a clue what the stack is but I'm reasonably sure it's symetrical 
based on the striations in the profile cut.  It's looking to me like the 1" 
yankee leg is going to be real stiff for my 600# KR2.  I'm beginning to think 
the Diehl leg might be a better choice in my case and would like to know a bit 
more about them.  I have asked Steve GLover for dimensions but haven't heard 
from him.  Can anybody give me measured dimensions of a diehl leg?  The Yankee 
leg is 1" thick and I've heard estimates of 3/4" to 1" and about 3" wide for 
the Diehl.  A little change in the thickness and stack can make a big 
difference in the stiffness.  Does anyone have, or know a source for, a set of 
the 30" legs they care to part with? I may be interested!



Thanks,

Pete Gauthier,  

Woodburn, OR (real close to McMinnville) 


- Original Message - 

From: krnet-request at list.krnet.org 

To: krnet at list.krnet.org 

Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2014 9:00 AM

Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 2, Issue 322



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KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Tony King]

"28" for a better three point attitude on the ground."

That'd be nice, but the Yankee legs I bought are only 26 3/4" long.

Cheers,

Tony

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Mark Langford]

See http://www.n56ml.com/gear/broken_leg.jpg (or attached) for the 
structure of the Deihl gear leg.  Definitely unidirectional, so a little 
something to tie the strands together couldn't hurt.

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

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KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com]

The other reason Diehl wanted them wrapped is because the glass in the
legs is unidirectional and the wrap prevents them from splitting with
the grain.  Apparently Grumman never had that problem and I don't know
if an unwrapped KR leg ever would split, but I could see a crack
potentially developing through the bolt holes.

I know I did not put foam on the leading edges of my gear legs.  It has
been years, but I seem to recall that they were beveled and I finished
sanding to a radius or used a router.  As stated, the straw on the
trailing edge is good for the brake line and good to taper the back end
to streamline it.


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS
From: Sid Wood via KRnet 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, December 10, 2014 11:08 am
To: 

The wrap also allows you to to put some foam streamlining on the leading
and 
trailing edges plus letting you embed a plastic soda straw conduit for a

brake line.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


The reason the?Diehl gear legs are wrapped is because the legs have a 
tendency to twist when the brakes are applied. ?So the glass stiffens to

legs. With our legs being 1" thick we may not need to wrap them.

Paul Visk
Belleville I'll
618-406-4705?





___
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KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Flesner]

At 06:16 PM 12/10/2014, you wrote:
>On the KR2S I'd cut them to no less than 26" and more likely, 28" 
>for a better three point attitude on the ground.
+++

That's with a tail wheel, not a nose dragger.  Nose wheel using Diehl 
nose gear setup will have to stick with the 24" leg.

Larry Flesner 

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Flesner]

At 12:23 PM 12/10/2014, you wrote:
>The Grumman gear is also a lot wider to start with than the Diehl 
>gear which is why they don't twist.
>

Based on my experience with 30" Diehl gear legs, if I were using the 
Yankee gear legs I would cut them to the same shape and dimensions as 
the Diehl legs, and wrap them with one or two layers of KR cloth to 
add foam on lead and trail edge to shape and run brake lines.  On the 
KR2S I'd cut them to no less than 26" and more likely, 28" for a 
better three point attitude on the ground.  I feel my gear at 30" is 
just right for my slightly longer KR over the 2S.  My KR is 765 
pounds empty and I routinely fly at 1065 to 1100 pounds gross and 
have on occasion flown  as heavy as 1250 to 1300 pounds.  The flex 
seems to be just right without being too springy.  I have video shot 
from the belly back by the tail showing the gear during takeoff and 
landing and they seem to flex no more than maybe 2 or 3 inches at the 
wheel.  They handle just fine on grass strips also.

Your results may vary...

Larry Flesner 

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Sid Wood]

The wrap also allows you to to put some foam streamlining on the leading and 
trailing edges plus letting you embed a plastic soda straw conduit for a 
brake line.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


The reason the?Diehl gear legs are wrapped is because the legs have a 
tendency to twist when the brakes are applied. ?So the glass stiffens to 
legs. With our legs being 1" thick we may not need to wrap them.

Paul Visk
Belleville I'll
618-406-4705?

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Ronald Wright]

The Grumman gear is also a lot wider to start with than the Diehl gear which is 
why they don't twist.

On Wed, 12/10/14, Sid Wood via KRnet  wrote:

 Subject: Re: KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS
 To: krnet at list.krnet.org
 Date: Wednesday, December 10, 2014, 12:08 PM

 The wrap also allows you to to put
 some foam streamlining on the leading and 
 trailing edges plus letting you embed a plastic soda straw
 conduit for a 
 brake line.

 Sid Wood
 Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
 Mechanicsville, MD, USA
 

 The reason the?Diehl gear legs are wrapped is because the
 legs have a 
 tendency to twist when the brakes are applied. ?So the glass
 stiffens to 
 legs. With our legs being 1" thick we may not need to wrap
 them.

 Paul Visk
 Belleville I'll
 618-406-4705?





 ___
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 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Tony King]

Yep.  Just mark them out with a Sharpie, cut them on a sawbench and round
the edges with a router.  Once you've done that just follow the same steps
as for the 'standard' legs - i.e. wrap them with fibreglass, etc.

The Grumman legs are thicker than the 'standard' legs - by about 1/4" I
think.  I'm still thinking about whether to leave them thicker (to make
them a bit stiffer at the 600kg MTOW I'm aiming for) or plane them down to
the normal thickness.

Cheers,

Tony

On 10 December 2014 at 08:23, ol' weirdo via KRnet 
wrote:

> Has anyone cut down and used Grumman Yankee surplus landing gear legs for
> his/her KR2?
> And if you did, how did you do it?
>
> Bill Weir
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[ppaulvsk]

The reason the?Diehl gear legs are wrapped is because the legs have a tendency 
to twist when the brakes are applied. ?So the glass stiffens to legs. With our 
legs being 1" thick we may not need to wrap them.

Paul Visk
Belleville I'll
618-406-4705?


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S?4

 Original message 
From: Dan via KRnet  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date:12/10/2014  12:18 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: 'ol' weirdo' ,'KRnet'  
Subject: Re: KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS 

Bill, 

Sure have.? Kept them at 1" thick.? If you want I can send you the drawings
of the legs, photos and the bracket CAD.? Email me at dprich01 at comcast.net .
As the plane sits right now with me in it there is about .5" deflection.
I'm not sure why folks wrap the legs in fiberglass.? Grumman doesn't.

Dan Prichard
Portland Oregon

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of ol' weirdo
via KRnet
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 2:23 PM
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

Has anyone cut down and used Grumman Yankee surplus landing gear legs for
his/her KR2?
And if you did, how did you do it?

Bill Weir
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KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[Dan]

Bill, 

Sure have.  Kept them at 1" thick.  If you want I can send you the drawings
of the legs, photos and the bracket CAD.  Email me at dprich01 at comcast.net .
As the plane sits right now with me in it there is about .5" deflection.
I'm not sure why folks wrap the legs in fiberglass.  Grumman doesn't.

Dan Prichard
Portland Oregon

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of ol' weirdo
via KRnet
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 2:23 PM
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

Has anyone cut down and used Grumman Yankee surplus landing gear legs for
his/her KR2?
And if you did, how did you do it?

Bill Weir
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KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[ol' weirdo]

Has anyone cut down and used Grumman Yankee surplus landing gear legs for
his/her KR2?
And if you did, how did you do it?

Bill Weir

KR> Landing gear location

[Sidney wood]

My KR-2 is sitting on jack stands.  Main wheels are off the airplane.   Next 
will be the struts: these will come off tomorrow.  Don't know when will get the 
new struts and proceed to put those on.  Making some progress, but slow.
Sure missing the flight to Chino.  Have fun.
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

Sent from my iPhone

KR> Landing Gear Location

[Sid Wood]

Reading the nV Aero web site looking to buy another set of fiberglass gear 
legs: Looks like I have the gear legs for a tail dragger version on my 
tri-gear KR-2.  The nV Aero site says that the two versions of the Diehl 
gear legs are NOT interchangeable because the wrong version will put the 
main wheels in the wrong location.  I purchased the  old set years ago 
before nV Aero bought the Diehl rights and started getting the story 
straight.  I do appreciate Steve's efforts to get some standardization in 
the KR parts.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Landing gear position, CG

[jon kimmel]

There is one thing stated incorrectly...the kr2s should actually have a
smaller cg range than the kr2.  This is because the kr2s has a shorter mean
aerodynamic chord.  15% to 35% mac is a smaller range on the kr2s than a
kr2.

https://sites.google.com/site/mykr2stretch/
https://sites.google.com/site/mykr2stretch/parts-for-sale

KR> Landing gear position, CG

[Mark Langford]

Paul Visk wrote:

>> With Sid's landing gear being 17" aft of datum (leading edge) and the 
>> problem with the tail falling down. What would be a good position for the 
>> landing gear if you haven't drilled your legs yet? I know you wouldn't 
>> wanna make the nose to heavy because you would have problems rotating. <<

The Diehl gear installation instructions read "The taildragger conversion 
mounts the main gear on the forward side of the main spar with castings 
bolted on just outside the fuselage sides.  The gear legs angle forward. 
The tri-gear mounts the gear legs on the aft side of the main spar with legs 
angled back."

So with the Diehl gear, it's simply assembled and it works out close enough 
to have served people well over the years.  If you aren't using Diehl 
(nvAero) gear legs, you'll have to get the angle from somebody who has them 
and cut yours to match.

Along the same line, the plans call for a CG centered exactly on the 25% 
chord line, 10% each way (15%-35%).  That's an impressively large CG range 
for a plane that is short-coupled and has no flaps, and is a departure from 
the more average range of about 15% from forward to aft CG limit.  For many 
years, conventional wisdom in the KR community is to NOT use the aft 2" of 
the CG range, as the aircraft is likely to be unstable there.(likely gained 
from actual flight experience, rather than choosing nice round numbers). 
This is mentioned in various newsletters as well.   In the 90's Dr. Richard 
Mole did a very methodical stability analysis on the KR2S (which shares the 
same CG range, and should have an even larger range than the plain KR2 due 
to the longer fuselage and larger tail volume).  Below is what I wrote about 
it in my "KR Opinions" piece at  http://www.n56ml.com/kopinion.html :

"An analysis of the KR2S by PhD aeronautical engineer Dr. Richard Mole has 
revealed that using the aft two inches of the published CG range results in 
a fundamentally "unstable" airplane! Don't go there! I've done it 
(accidently) and I can tell you that I'm lucky to survive to tell the story 
(which is also on my webpage somewhere). And if you'll ditch the header tank 
and go with wing tanks (and maybe a SMALL header tank) the CG will not 
migrate nearly as far during a flight, allowing you to set up the plane 
towards the front end of the CG range, where you'll enjoy a nicely 
controllable airplane."

So smart builders will use the range of 8"-14" aft of the leading edge of 
the stub wing, and gravitate toward the front end of it, rather than the aft 
end, or at least start out flying it there...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com

KR> Landing gear position

[smwood]

Using my weight and balance Excel spread sheet, I can do all manner of "what 
if" math quick and easy.  (Don't know if Mr. Pazmany had Excel, but his math 
is still valid.)  My datum is the leading edge of the stub wings per the 
KR-2 plans.  At my max gross weight I would not be able to load my KR-2 
without tipping on the tail at 17 inches main wheel location.  For flight 
the cg would be 14.6 inches; fly-able but not recommended.  With the main 
wheels at 19 inches that would be the balance or tipping point.  Any loading 
less than the max gross weight would work ok at the 19 inch setting.  The cg 
for flight would 14.7 inches (moving the weight of the main wheels will move 
the empty cg).  To get the cg less than 14 inches at max fuel would require 
limiting the passenger weight to less than 100 pounds.
To get a safe margin regarding tipping, the main wheel location on my KR-2 
needs to be set at 20 inches from datum.  I am fairly certain I have enough 
elevator authority for takeoff rotation.  Time will tell.
Regarding drilling the gear legs for initial installation, just use C-clamps 
to hold everything in position and measure the distance to the axels.  Set 
it where you want it to be.  A carpenter square and your stub wing templates 
are all the measuring tools you will need for that.  Right now I would 
recommend 20 inches.  As Larry says: "Your results may vary."

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
---
> With Sid's landing gear being 17" aft of datum?(leading edge) and the 
> problem with the the tail falling down. What would be a good position for 
> the landing gear if you haven't drilled your legs yet? I know you wouldn't 
> wanna make the nose to ?heavy because you would have problems rotating.?
>
> Paul Visk
> Belleville Il
> 618 406 4705
>

KR> Landing gear position

[Paul Visk]

With Sid's landing gear being 17" aft of datum?(leading edge) and the problem 
with the the tail falling down. What would be a good position for the landing 
gear if you haven't drilled your legs yet? I know you wouldn't wanna make the 
nose to ?heavy because you would have problems rotating.?

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618 406 4705

Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4.

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS

[ol' weirdo]

Has anyone made landing gear legs from the fiberglass rear springs that
Pontiac used on vans a while ago?

Bill Weir

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS - Pontiac Leaf Springs

[Peter Johnson]

Hi Bill.

I took a pair of the springs and tested them for flex.  They would have been 
a bit soft, but quite doable with some additional wrapping.

I wrote of the efforts some years ago, along with concerns for converting 
the springs to gear legs.  You'll have to search the archives.


Peter Johnson
Kenora, Ontario




- Original Message - 
From: "ol' weirdo via KRnet" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 7:43 AM
Subject: KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS


> Has anyone made landing gear legs from the fiberglass rear springs that
> Pontiac used on vans a while ago?
>
> Bill Weir
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options 

KR> landing gear legs and brackets

[Becky Carpenter]

Hi, is the landing gear retractable? And how much are you asking for it
Thanks, Becky

> On Jul 2, 2014, at 5:14 PM, Brad Ankerstar via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> I could not find the original requester, but I have a complete set of Diehl
> landing gear parts to include the axles, wheels, tires, tubes, brakes, and
> brackets (slightly used and still assembled) plus master cylinders for the
> mains as well as the entire nose gear which is damaged (strut broke) and
> mounting bracket bent.   This could save someone a lot of time if you don't
> mind a little repair and fabrication.  Items are from N774A which was
> destroyed on its first test flight.  Power loss.  Parts are located in SW
> Ohio.
> 
> If you are interested I'd be happy to email photos.
> 
> Brad Ankerstar
> ankerstarb at embarqmail.com
> (513) 313-9265 cell
> 
> 
> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Flesner
>> via KRnet
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2014 5:22 PM
>> To: Dan Prichard; KRnet
>> Subject: KR> landing gear legs and brackets
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>>> Could someone tell me the angle of the Diehl main gear brakets? I
>>> intend to make my own. I also remember a post  regarding composite
>>> legs that some of you had used. Any idea if they might still be
>>> available ? ps at what position are the mounting brackets attached to
>>> the main spar? Thanks Mark
>> options
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options

KR> landing gear legs and brackets

[Tony King]

Hi Larry,

Thanks for that comprehensive overview.  It was very helpful.

Cheers,

Tony


On 3 July 2014 07:21, Flesner via KRnet  wrote:

>
>
>
>  > Could someone tell me the angle of the Diehl main gear brakets? I
>> intend to make my own. I also remember a post  regarding composite legs
>> that some of you had used. Any idea if they might still be available ? ps
>> at what position are the mounting brackets attached to the main spar?
>> Thanks Mark
>>
> 
> 
>
>> You can find the fiberglass legs on eBay. Aviation parts/ Grumman tiger
>> undrilled. Contact me direct and ill sen you photos of my setup with PDFs
>> of drawings. I'm also using the legs cut down for the front gear.
>> Dprich01 at comcast.net
>>
> 
> +++
>
> The Diehl upper brackets are mounted to the spar with the leg angled at 45
> degrees.  The lower bracket is also 45 degrees.  If you want to increase
>  the camber a bit I'd suggest you modify the lower fitting a bit to the
> angle you want.  I went with 45 / 45 and it has worked out well for me.
>  The Grumman gear legs are made of the same material as the Diehl legs but
> are slightly thicker and wider.  You will have to modify them a bit to get
> similar results, i.e., cut a bit narrower or run through a planner to
> modify the thickness.  Some builders make upper gear brackets using 1/8"
> steel plate. I added about 1/8" of fiberglass to my 30 inch legs for a bit
> more stiffness.  If you use the Grumman legs with more than 24" length I'd
> suggest leaving them a bit thicker than the 24" Diehl leg.  With my 24"
> fuselage stretch I needed longer legs to get the correct 3 point stance.
>
>   https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8669.JPG
>
>  I made my lower brackets using a piece of 2"X6"X1/4" 4130 steel plate.  I
> cut through the plate at center going about 3/4 of the way through the
> metal.  I bent the plate at the cut to 45 degrees with the cut on the
> outside.  I had a gusset welled to the inside and had the cut welded shut
> and then sanded the weld to a nice radius.  I think the Diehl lower bracket
> is 2 1/2 inches wide.  http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/21.jpg
>
> Diehl instructions say to mount the upper brackets next to the fuselage.
>  I moved my brackets outboard 4 to 6 inches on each side for a slightly
> wider gear stance.  That and 30 inch legs instead of the Diehl 24 inch legs
> give me a nice 8 foot wide gear track.
>
> There is much discussion about  "toe-in, toe-out".  I set my track at zero
> / zero and love the ground handling and I get zero tire side ware. I also
> run a slightly lower tire pressure (25 pounds) than some and my tires seem
> to last forever.  On an annual once I found them both to have deflated to
> 15 pounds each.  They still looked and  performed perfectly normal although
> I'd not recommend running them below the 25 pound range if possible or
> unusual side loads might cause a problem.  Keep the aircraft aligned with
> the direction of travel when on the ground and that won't be an issue. :-)
>  500+ hours and still wearing the KR grin
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> landing gear legs and brackets

[Brad Ankerstar]

I could not find the original requester, but I have a complete set of Diehl
landing gear parts to include the axles, wheels, tires, tubes, brakes, and
brackets (slightly used and still assembled) plus master cylinders for the
mains as well as the entire nose gear which is damaged (strut broke) and
mounting bracket bent.   This could save someone a lot of time if you don't
mind a little repair and fabrication.  Items are from N774A which was
destroyed on its first test flight.  Power loss.  Parts are located in SW
Ohio.

If you are interested I'd be happy to email photos.

Brad Ankerstar
ankerstarb at embarqmail.com
(513) 313-9265 cell



> -Original Message-
> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Flesner
> via KRnet
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2014 5:22 PM
> To: Dan Prichard; KRnet
> Subject: KR> landing gear legs and brackets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > > Could someone tell me the angle of the Diehl main gear brakets? I
> > intend to make my own. I also remember a post  regarding composite
> > legs that some of you had used. Any idea if they might still be
> > available ? ps at what position are the mounting brackets attached to
> > the main spar? Thanks Mark
> options

KR> landing gear legs and brackets

[Flesner]

> > Could someone tell me the angle of the Diehl main gear brakets? I 
> intend to make my own. I also remember a post  regarding composite 
> legs that some of you had used. Any idea if they might still be 
> available ? ps at what position are the mounting brackets attached 
> to the main spar? Thanks Mark

>You can find the fiberglass legs on eBay. Aviation parts/ Grumman 
>tiger undrilled. Contact me direct and ill sen you photos of my 
>setup with PDFs of drawings. I'm also using the legs cut down for 
>the front gear.
>Dprich01 at comcast.net
+++

The Diehl upper brackets are mounted to the spar with the leg angled 
at 45 degrees.  The lower bracket is also 45 degrees.  If you want to 
increase  the camber a bit I'd suggest you modify the lower fitting a 
bit to the angle you want.  I went with 45 / 45 and it has worked out 
well for me.  The Grumman gear legs are made of the same material as 
the Diehl legs but are slightly thicker and wider.  You will have to 
modify them a bit to get similar results, i.e., cut a bit narrower or 
run through a planner to modify the thickness.  Some builders make 
upper gear brackets using 1/8" steel plate. I added about 1/8" of 
fiberglass to my 30 inch legs for a bit more stiffness.  If you use 
the Grumman legs with more than 24" length I'd suggest leaving them a 
bit thicker than the 24" Diehl leg.  With my 24" fuselage stretch I 
needed longer legs to get the correct 3 point stance.

   https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8669.JPG

  I made my lower brackets using a piece of 2"X6"X1/4" 4130 steel 
plate.  I cut through the plate at center going about 3/4 of the way 
through the metal.  I bent the plate at the cut to 45 degrees with 
the cut on the outside.  I had a gusset welled to the inside and had 
the cut welded shut and then sanded the weld to a nice radius.  I 
think the Diehl lower bracket is 2 1/2 inches 
wide.  http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/21.jpg

Diehl instructions say to mount the upper brackets next to the 
fuselage.  I moved my brackets outboard 4 to 6 inches on each side 
for a slightly wider gear stance.  That and 30 inch legs instead of 
the Diehl 24 inch legs give me a nice 8 foot wide gear track.

There is much discussion about  "toe-in, toe-out".  I set my track at 
zero / zero and love the ground handling and I get zero tire side 
ware. I also run a slightly lower tire pressure (25 pounds) than some 
and my tires seem to last forever.  On an annual once I found them 
both to have deflated to 15 pounds each.  They still looked 
and  performed perfectly normal although I'd not recommend running 
them below the 25 pound range if possible or unusual side loads might 
cause a problem.  Keep the aircraft aligned with the direction of 
travel when on the ground and that won't be an issue. :-)  500+ hours 
and still wearing the KR grin

Larry Flesner

KR> landing gear...

[Pdoug]

Ooops!!! Sorry guys, just made a bg hash of this. It is 2.45meters and
NOT 2 meters 45 mm.

My sincere apologies.

Cheers,
Pierre

>Mmmm, I'll have to answer in metric. Mine is 2 meters and 45 millimeters,
outside to outside. Reason I know is I had to widen my trailer to accept the
KR2S main gear. It's a bit wider than the Tailwind:-)

KR> landing gear...

[GaryH]

Thanks all for wheel base info.  I've got a good range.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Pdoug
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 3:58 AM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: Re: KR> landing gear...

Mmmm, I'll have to answer in metric. Mine is 2 meters and 45 millimeters,
outside to outside. Reason I know is I had to widen my trailer to accept the
KR2S main gear. It's a bit wider than the Tailwind:-)

Cheers,
Pierre

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of GaryH
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:34 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: KR> landing gear...


Can some of you guys tell me what is the wheel base on your tail dragger KR?
That is, distance between tires on main gear?  

Thanks,
Gary H
Georgetown,TX



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KR> landing gear...

[Pdoug]

Mmmm, I'll have to answer in metric. Mine is 2 meters and 45 millimeters,
outside to outside. Reason I know is I had to widen my trailer to accept the
KR2S main gear. It's a bit wider than the Tailwind:-)

Cheers,
Pierre

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of GaryH
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:34 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: KR> landing gear...


Can some of you guys tell me what is the wheel base on your tail dragger KR?
That is, distance between tires on main gear?  

Thanks,
Gary H
Georgetown,TX



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KR> landing gear...

[Larry&Sallie Flesner]

>  Mine is 2 meters and 45 millimeters,
>outside to outside.
++

6 feet, 8.5 inches

Larry Flesner

KR> landing gear...

[Roger Bulla]

Gary

My gear is the fixed gear that Rand use to offer and it is 62 inches from 
the center of the tires.

Roger Bulla

-Original Message- 
From: GaryH
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 1:33 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: KR> landing gear...


Can some of you guys tell me what is the wheel base on your tail dragger KR?
That is, distance between tires on main gear?

Thanks,
Gary H
Georgetown,TX



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KR> landing gear...

[Larry&Sallie Flesner]

At 02:33 PM 8/27/2013, you wrote:
>Can some of you guys tell me what is the wheel base on your tail dragger KR?
>That is, distance between tires on main gear?


The outside edge of my wheels / tires are within an inch of 8 
feet,  right at the outboard edges of the center section spar.

Larry Flesner

KR> landing gear...

[GaryH]

Can some of you guys tell me what is the wheel base on your tail dragger KR?
That is, distance between tires on main gear?  

Thanks,
Gary H
Georgetown,TX

KR> Landing gear

[Mark Langford]

Becky Davis wrote:

> Hi, sending this for my dad who is building a KR1. It has been his dream 
> his whole life and now at 75 he's doing it. He would like to know where to 
> get the landing gear?

Good for him!  Most builders use the "Diehl" gear, which is now available 
from NVaero at 
http://www.nvaero.com/categories/Aircraft-Components/Landing-Gear/.  It can 
also be bought used from builders who've given up the dream, but those finds 
are somewhat rare...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com
 

KR> Landing gear

[Becky Carpenter]

Hi, sending this for my dad who is building a KR1. It has been his dream his 
whole life and now at 75 he's doing it. He would like to know where to get the 
landing gear? His name is Wayne Davis and I'm Becky his daughter.  Thanks

"The next thirty years are going to be the best years of my life!"

KR> Landing Gear.

[Glenn Martin]

I wanted to thank all of you who responded to my call for help. Mike 
Sylvester of Birmingham is sending out a set of gear with locking 
improvements and I think that this should work excellently. I can't tell 
you how much it meant to me that all of you would this kind as to help 
me. Over the last 3 years spent with aviators, it is people like all of 
you who have renewed what was a greatly diminished (read: non-existent) 
faith in other people through many acts of kindness like this.  It's 
going to take me a while to get 1333A up and running, but you can be 
sure that the motivation y'all have provided me was as instrumental in 
this process as anything. THANK YOU AGAIN!!!
-- 
Glenn Martin,
KR2 N1333A,
Biloxi, MS

KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Brian Coss]

Thx lee, gd advice! Guna keep it simple for now! :) I will just fabricated a
nice latch mechanism, I have a nice pic of 1 in a newsletter. been trying to
send a picture to virgil, :)
On Oct 1, 2011 11:23 PM, "Lee Van Dyke"  wrote:
> Stick with the retract gear. Get it flying again
>
> Lee Van Dyke
>
> On Oct 1, 2011, at 12:18 PM, Brian Coss  wrote:
>
>> Im in the retract dilemma, gonna have to stick with it 4 now, very
>> pricey!!!, I'd like to make a 6 care system out of the old spring bar cut
in
>> half, would like to find drawings on mounting bracket an attachment
points
>> to make a fixed gear out of my spring bar.
>> On Oct 1, 2011 2:12 PM, "Virgil N. Salisbury" 
wrote:
>>>
>>> Is there a POSITIVE lock down system for the retracts ? Virg
>>>
>>>
>>> On 9/28/2011 10:21 PM, Brian Coss wrote:
 Thanks for the info on the retracts,Dave, much appreciated,leaning to
the
 fixed gear is gettin more interesting, a used, proven, fixed type for
krs
 would be nice,if I can find one?
 On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech"
wrote:
> Hello Brian,
> I have a Plans Built KR2 with retracts too. The retracts arn't bad.
The

>>>
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>
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KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Lee Van Dyke]

Stick with the retract gear.  Get it flying again

Lee Van Dyke

On Oct 1, 2011, at 12:18 PM, Brian Coss  wrote:

> Im in the retract dilemma, gonna have to stick with it 4 now, very
> pricey!!!, I'd like to make a 6 care system out of the old spring bar cut in
> half, would like to find drawings on mounting bracket an attachment points
> to make a fixed gear out of my spring bar.
> On Oct 1, 2011 2:12 PM, "Virgil N. Salisbury"  wrote:
>> 
>> Is there a POSITIVE lock down system for the retracts ? Virg
>> 
>> 
>> On 9/28/2011 10:21 PM, Brian Coss wrote:
>>> Thanks for the info on the retracts,Dave, much appreciated,leaning to the
>>> fixed gear is gettin more interesting, a used, proven, fixed type for krs
>>> would be nice,if I can find one?
>>> On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech" wrote:
 Hello Brian,
 I have a Plans Built KR2 with retracts too. The retracts arn't bad. The
>>> 
>> 
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> 

KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[peterdif...@googlemail.com]

I have a set of diehl springs and brackets in my lockup, not sure what ups will 
be from uk.

If interested contact me

Pete
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Brian Coss  wrote:

How to build a fixed gear system out of the old spring bar,is what o was
trying to say, lol typo
On Oct 1, 2011 2:18 PM, "Brian Coss"  wrote:
> Im in the retract dilemma, gonna have to stick with it 4 now, very
> pricey!!!, I'd like to make a 6 care system out of the old spring bar cut
in
> half, would like to find drawings on mounting bracket an attachment points
> to make a fixed gear out of my spring bar.
> On Oct 1, 2011 2:12 PM, "Virgil N. Salisbury" 
wrote:
>>
>> Is there a POSITIVE lock down system for the retracts ? Virg
>>
>>
>> On 9/28/2011 10:21 PM, Brian Coss wrote:
>>> Thanks for the info on the retracts,Dave, much appreciated,leaning to
the
>>> fixed gear is gettin more interesting, a used, proven, fixed type for
krs
>>> would be nice,if I can find one?
>>> On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech"
wrote:
 Hello Brian,
 I have a Plans Built KR2 with retracts too. The retracts arn't bad. The
>>>
>>
>>_

>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Brian Coss]

How to build a fixed gear system out of the old spring bar,is what o was
trying to say, lol typo
On Oct 1, 2011 2:18 PM, "Brian Coss"  wrote:
> Im in the retract dilemma, gonna have to stick with it 4 now, very
> pricey!!!, I'd like to make a 6 care system out of the old spring bar cut
in
> half, would like to find drawings on mounting bracket an attachment points
> to make a fixed gear out of my spring bar.
> On Oct 1, 2011 2:12 PM, "Virgil N. Salisbury" 
wrote:
>>
>> Is there a POSITIVE lock down system for the retracts ? Virg
>>
>>
>> On 9/28/2011 10:21 PM, Brian Coss wrote:
>>> Thanks for the info on the retracts,Dave, much appreciated,leaning to
the
>>> fixed gear is gettin more interesting, a used, proven, fixed type for
krs
>>> would be nice,if I can find one?
>>> On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech"
wrote:
 Hello Brian,
 I have a Plans Built KR2 with retracts too. The retracts arn't bad. The
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Brian Coss]

Im in the retract dilemma, gonna have to stick with it 4 now, very
pricey!!!, I'd like to make a 6 care system out of the old spring bar cut in
half, would like to find drawings on mounting bracket an attachment points
to make a fixed gear out of my spring bar.
On Oct 1, 2011 2:12 PM, "Virgil N. Salisbury"  wrote:
>
> Is there a POSITIVE lock down system for the retracts ? Virg
>
>
> On 9/28/2011 10:21 PM, Brian Coss wrote:
>> Thanks for the info on the retracts,Dave, much appreciated,leaning to the
>> fixed gear is gettin more interesting, a used, proven, fixed type for krs
>> would be nice,if I can find one?
>> On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech" wrote:
>>> Hello Brian,
>>> I have a Plans Built KR2 with retracts too. The retracts arn't bad. The
>>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Brian Coss]

I hv some old news letters with some niffty designs,i could take a pik with
my ph & send it e mail if ude like, :)
On Oct 1, 2011 2:12 PM, "Virgil N. Salisbury"  wrote:
>
> Is there a POSITIVE lock down system for the retracts ? Virg
>
>
> On 9/28/2011 10:21 PM, Brian Coss wrote:
>> Thanks for the info on the retracts,Dave, much appreciated,leaning to the
>> fixed gear is gettin more interesting, a used, proven, fixed type for krs
>> would be nice,if I can find one?
>> On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech" wrote:
>>> Hello Brian,
>>> I have a Plans Built KR2 with retracts too. The retracts arn't bad. The
>>
>
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KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Virgil N. Salisbury]

Is  there a POSITIVE lock down system for the retracts ? Virg


On 9/28/2011 10:21 PM, Brian Coss wrote:
> Thanks for the info on the retracts,Dave, much appreciated,leaning to the
> fixed gear is gettin more interesting, a used, proven, fixed type for krs
> would be nice,if I can find one?
> On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech"  wrote:
>> Hello Brian,
>> I have a Plans Built KR2 with retracts too.  The retracts arn't bad.  The
>

KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Brian Coss]

Thx tony,im sure this topic about landing gear has come Up alot! guess it
will hv to wait for now,regardless,its still a beutiful little plane, :)
On Sep 28, 2011 10:11 PM, "Tony King"  wrote:
> Hi Brian,
>
> The only commercially available landing gear for KR2's I'm aware of is
Grove
> (aluminium one piece) and Diehl (composite). Cost wise I don't think
> there's much difference between the two. There are KR's with different
gear
> (e.g. there's one in Australia that has Jabiru landing gear - although
> buying that from Jabiru won't save you anything compared with the other
> options). There are also some who have made their own composite gear - a
> search of the KRNet archive will turn them up. Whichever way you slice it,
> you're up for a fair chunk of money (and time if you decide to make your
> own). I'm looking at buying some Scotchply and fabricating the mounting
> brackets for a replica of the Diehl gear, but that's driven by the added
> cost of getting an off the shelf kit shipped to Australia. If you're in
> North America I'd suggest the best option is to go with the Diehl gear (or
> Grove if that's your preference).
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tony
> Queensland Australia
>
> On 29 September 2011 12:55, Brian Coss  wrote:
>
>> Hello again,wonderin if theres other availiable fixed gear systems with
>> good
>> performance&price? Thx
>> On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech" 
wrote:
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
> ___
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Tony King]

Hi Brian,

The only commercially available landing gear for KR2's I'm aware of is Grove
(aluminium one piece) and Diehl (composite).  Cost wise I don't think
there's much difference between the two.  There are KR's with different gear
(e.g. there's one in Australia that has Jabiru landing gear - although
buying that from Jabiru won't save you anything compared with the other
options).  There are also some who have made their own composite gear - a
search of the KRNet archive will turn them up.  Whichever way you slice it,
you're up for a fair chunk of money (and time if you decide to make your
own).  I'm looking at buying some Scotchply and fabricating the mounting
brackets for a replica of the Diehl gear, but that's driven by the added
cost of getting an off the shelf kit shipped to Australia.  If you're in
North America I'd suggest the best option is to go with the Diehl gear (or
Grove if that's your preference).

Cheers,

Tony
Queensland Australia

On 29 September 2011 12:55, Brian Coss  wrote:

> Hello again,wonderin if theres other availiable fixed gear systems with
> good
> performance&price? Thx
> On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech"  wrote:
> ___
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> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Brian Coss]

Hello again,wonderin if theres other availiable fixed gear systems with good
performance&price? Thx
On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech"  wrote:

KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Brian Coss]

Thanks for the info on the retracts,Dave, much appreciated,leaning to the
fixed gear is gettin more interesting, a used, proven, fixed type for krs
would be nice,if I can find one?
On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech"  wrote:
> Hello Brian,
> I have a Plans Built KR2 with retracts too.  The retracts arn't bad.  The
only things I dont like about them is, when combined with outta-round brake
drums, the the aluminum spring bar winds-up and releases and makes it
shudder.  Plus, the hole in the fuselage for the spring bar makes for a
excellent cold-air vent at high altitudes so I have to wear double socks. I
had a horrible landing 2 flights ago and really belly-flopped and bounced it
in and the retracts held up fine.  Another benefit is you can log retract
time for insurance purposes.
> As for brakes, I run toe/cable operated Azusa go-cart drum brakes.  I dont
recommend them unless theyre already set up.  The brakes will barely hold
the plane at full power, but theyre not much use for slowing the plane down
to exit the runway.
> Good luck,
> David Robins
>
> --- On Thu, 9/29/11, Brian Coss  wrote:
>
> From: Brian Coss 
> Subject: Re: KR> Magneto
> To: "KRnet" 
> Date: Thursday, September 29, 2011, 1:05 AM
>
> Hi every one, Brian here,im the one that recently purchased a beutiful
built
> to plans kr2 with retracts, I can see the better potential of fixed
gear,but
> got abit sticker shock on price of diehl set up,its def. Nice, but is
there
> other options? Like alum.or composit one peice,or used,? with disc breaks.
> Also wonderin about break accuators,toe?or handles?or what is most used?
or
> a gd disc system & mods for retracts, thanks so much!!! :)
> On Sep 28, 2011 5:26 PM, "Bob Glidden"  wrote:
> ___
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Landing gear and brakes.

[Prototype Mech]

Hello Brian,
I have a Plans Built KR2 with retracts too.  The retracts arn't bad.  The only 
things I dont like about them is, when combined with outta-round brake drums, 
the the aluminum spring bar winds-up and releases and makes it shudder.  Plus, 
the hole in the fuselage for the spring bar makes for a excellent cold-air vent 
at high altitudes so I have to wear double socks. I had a horrible landing 2 
flights ago and really belly-flopped and bounced it in and the retracts held up 
fine.  Another benefit is you can log retract time for insurance purposes.  
As for brakes, I run toe/cable operated Azusa go-cart drum brakes.  I dont 
recommend them unless theyre already set up.  The brakes will barely hold the 
plane at full power, but theyre not much use for slowing the plane down to exit 
the runway.
Good luck, 
David Robins

--- On Thu, 9/29/11, Brian Coss  wrote:

From: Brian Coss 
Subject: Re: KR> Magneto
To: "KRnet" 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thursday, September 29, 2011, 1:05 AM

Hi every one, Brian here,im the one that recently purchased a beutiful built
to plans kr2 with retracts, I can see the better potential of fixed gear,but
got abit sticker shock on price of diehl set up,its def. Nice, but is there
other options? Like alum.or composit one peice,or used,? with disc breaks.
Also wonderin about break accuators,toe?or handles?or what is most used? or
a gd disc system & mods for retracts, thanks so much!!! :)
On Sep 28, 2011 5:26 PM, "Bob Glidden"  wrote:
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KR> Landing gear

[Pete Klapp]

Don 
Rand Robinson used to sell an alum gear with brackets for conventional setup. 
I'm not sure if she still has any for sale, but you could check. nVaero ( Steve 
Glover) is also now selling KR components including Diehl main gear systems for 
either conventional or trigear applications. He may have one since he bought 
out her parts inventory.
Hope that helps, 
Pete Klapp, building KR-2S N729PK,
Canton, Ohio

> From: don_s_gr...@symetuoo.ca
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 20:51:00 -0500
> Subject: KR> Landing gear
> 
> A question for the field.
> 
> Aside from Grove, who else makes an aluminum one-piece main gear for 
> the KR2?
> 
> Don Greer
> Belleville, Ontario
> (future) KR2SS builder
> don_s_gr...@sympatico.ca
> 
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KR> Landing gear

[Craig Williams]

 I have heard of using those for the tailwheel.  Guess that could be used for 
the mains too.

Craig
www.kr2seafury.com

--- On Fri, 1/28/11, ol' weirdo  wrote:

> From: ol' weirdo 
> Subject: Re: KR> Landing gear
> To: "KRnet" 
> Date: Friday, January 28, 2011, 5:19 PM
> I didn't note who it was but he was
> proposing to use a GM fibreglass
> leaf spring for undercarriage. Wonder how it is going.
> 
> Bill Weir
> 
> On Thu, Jan 27, 2011 at 8:51 PM, Donald Greer 
> wrote:
> > A question for the field.
> >
> > Aside from Grove, who else makes an aluminum one-piece
> main gear for
> > the KR2?
> >
> > Don Greer
> > Belleville, Ontario
> > (future) KR2SS builder
> > don_s_gr...@sympatico.ca
> >
> > ___
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> >
> 
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>