Re: [lace] antique pricking
Sharon wrote: Turns out it is a piece of torchon! The pricking is ½ inch wide and the footside holes are 1mm apart. Who on earth would do such a fine piece of work...in torchon? I would! I love the shapes and patterns of fine torchon ( but can't stand most of the coarser patterns ), and the geometry makes it easy to follow the pattern (no need for detailed instructions,etc). Gets a bit boring after 20 repeats, but at least I stand a chance of finishing a piece the same year I started it! Beth In a frosty Cheshire, England -looks like we might actually get some sunshine today. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] RE: cattern cakes
This is the recipe for Cattern Cakes given by Hertfordshire Lacewings in October 1991. (Have I really been making them every year for so long? VBG) 9 oz (275gm) self raising flour 4oz (100gm) melted butter 2oz (50gm) ground almonds 7oz (200gm)caster sugar 1oz (25gm) currents 2 teaspoons caraway seeds 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 medium egg, beaten A liitle extra sugar, cinnamon and possibly, caraway seeds. Method Sift the flour and cinnamon into a bowl and stir in the currents, almonds, caraway seeds and sugar. Add the melted butter and beaten egg, mixing well to give a soft dough. Roll out, on a floured surface, into a rectangle, 12 X 10 (30X25cm) Brush the dough with water and sprinkle with the extra sugar and cinnamon. Roll up, like a swiss roll, and cut into 3/4 (2cm) slices. Place the slices, spaced well apart, on a greased baking tray. Bake for 10 minutes at 400F (200C) or gas mark 6. Cool on a wire rack. If wanted, the slices may be sprinkled with the extra caraway seeds. Enjoy! I make these for my students every year as my birthday is also St Catherine's day and it's how we celebrate! Lynne. Lynne Cumming Baldock, North Herts, UK email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Nottingham lace thread
I can vouch for the fact that the lace came off the machines in a very grubby state. A friend of mine, some years ago showed me a sample piece of lace which had been cut from a lace machine in Nottingham during one of his visits and it was a dirty grey colour. I remember him explaining that this was always the state of the lace coming from the machines before cleaning. Annette Meldrum South Coast of NSW Australia -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, 19 November 2004 7:34 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [lace] Nottingham lace thread In a message dated 11/18/04 4:46:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The history of linen thread was fascinating. Another fact I found out when researching family history, was that Nottingham lace was bleached after it was made. Presumably if the thread was bleached, it would be more likely to break on the lacemaking machines. If anyone can confirm this I would appreciate it. In my family line I have a family of dyers and bleachers living in Mansfield and Nottingham in the 19th century. This would be true. Also, the machine oils and grit present in the weaving rooms would have made the lace very dirty. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] 13th cent needlelace from China?
Thank you, Devon, for the Met Museum link. Its a wonderful piece and the photography is awesome. http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=20viewmode=0item=1987.277 A few years ago I saw a similar peice of Chinese needlelace at an antique dealer's in London. It was dated early 14th century, the colours were as fresh as the day it was made. The design was floral, more naturalistic than the Met piece, quite similar to later Chinese satin stitch embroideries. But the stitch was definitely detatched buttonhole. The dealer showed me another example in a beautiful (very expensive) book on Chinese embroidery. Alas, I could afford neither the book nor the embroidery! I tried (with permission) to take photographs, but it was framed, behind glass and rather high up, so there was no chance of getting detail. As others have said, this was the time of Marco Polo and the beginnings of trade between Europe and the Far East. Even though the (male) explorers may not have been particularly interested in embroidery, some pieces must have been brought back. The only puzzle is why it took the Venetians so long to realise the potential of detatched buttonhole stitch and to develop it into their own art form - the exquisite needlelace which took fashionable Europe by storm in the 16th century. Bridget in Watford, England - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Royal Mail
I'm sure Annette is right about the possible delay being within Pipers - waiting for new stock to come, for example. It is common practice here for mail purchases to come with the rider Allow 28 days for delivery. Things are certainly not being sent out on packhorse :-) It simply alows minor delays to be incorporated into the routine without special letters of the type Sorry for the delay. This item is temporarily out of stock but should be with us within a week. having to be sent out. It also stops customers phoning up to find out why they haven't received their order by return of post. Most things I have odered come long before the 28 days rider. Patricia in Wales [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] re:antique pricking
http://www.f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dorte_zielke/my_photos Sorry by mistake I did send it private. . Turns out it is a piece of torchon! The pricking is ½ inch wide and the footside holes are 1mm apart. Who on earth would do such a fine piece of work...in torchon? I would, torchon can allso be done in 1 mm, I have follow the discussion of how to get the prickings, and if it is a torchon, why don't you just make a colour drawing on 5 mm squared paper, and the pricking on ?mm squared paper to size of the tread you whant to use, how difficult can that be? Is there a chance to the prickings that you have so much problems with? Regard Dorte ps. There is a lot of torchon lace made here i DK We're still puzzling about the fan..or is it a fan? :) Sharon on dull Vancouver Island - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dorte_zielke/my_photos - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Cattern Cakes
Hi All, I would agree with the methods for the making of the dough, but when that has been done, the dough is rolled out flat, caraway seeds are sprinkled over the dough, and then the dough is rolled into a large Swiss-roll fashion, cylinder-shape, and the biscuits are cut from the 'Swiss roll' - that then gives them the characteristic *wheel* look, commemorating the wheel on which St Catherine was martyred - so they are *not* named after Catherine of Aragon! I love caraway seeds, and don't just make Cattern Cakes for St Catherine's day - I'd eat them any time! Carol - in Suffolk UK. Cattern Cakes ( as we call them in Norfolk UK) are named after Catherine of Aragon who once lived at Amphill Castle. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking
Since things are quiet and you are encouraging newbies, I have method that I would like feedback on and it might help those of you who don't have much time. I never prick patterns. I copy them on heavy blue cardstock (heavy paper) and then put clear contact paper over the top. They seem to hold the pins really well and it saves a ton of time. Then I just pin as I work the lace with no prior pricking. Some of you are probably gasping in horror, but it works. I don't reuse them, just make more as needed. It is cheap and quick. I don't every have to worry about pin pricks I might have missed. The only down side is that I have dozens of these around that I have not used yet. A case of more optimism than time, I guess. I don't know when or why I started doing this. (Remember I am self taught.) Is there any reason, besides not being the traditional method, that I shouldn't be doing this? Damage to pins, thread, etc.? - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking
In spite of the time it takes to actually prick all the holes, I find that I learn a lot about the pattern if I prick them before making the lace. I try to prick them in order of work (footside, ground, motif, next motif, headside, back to footside, etc). I often find myself figuring out the sequence of work, passage of threads, or identifying where I don't understand the pattern and even, if its an old pattern, where a pin hole is missing or off true. To start without pricking would be strange to me now. I will sometimes prick out part of a pattern, even if I don't particularly want to produce the lace, if the pattern is in a sequence of difficulty between a pattern I've already done and another I wish to do. I did this a lot with bucks point when I was just learning it. I collected as many patterns as I could from our guild library, sorted them out by difficulty, then started pricking at least two repeats of most of them to learn the logic of this lace technique. Its faster than making the lace, takes less room, and I found it a great intellectual challenge. I also learned to read bucks point patterns better than just looking at them in books, and faster than making the samples of lace. Than again, its the internal logic of the various techniques that fascinates me more than the actual making of the lace... go figure... Lucie DuFresne Ottawa Canada Since things are quiet and you are encouraging newbies, I have method that I would like feedback on and it might help those of you who don't have much time. I never prick patterns. I copy them on heavy blue cardstock (heavy paper) and then put clear contact paper over the top. They seem to hold the pins really well and it saves a ton of time. Then I just pin as I work the lace with no prior pricking. Some of you are probably gasping in horror, but it works. I don't reuse them, just make more as needed. It is cheap and quick. I don't every have to worry about pin pricks I might have missed. The only down side is that I have dozens of these around that I have not used yet. A case of more optimism than time, I guess. I don't know when or why I started doing this. (Remember I am self taught.) Is there any reason, besides not being the traditional method, that I shouldn't be doing this? Damage to pins, thread, etc.? - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: fine linen thread -- history
Apparently it wasn't just Irish immigrants who grew their own flax in order to produce their own cloth; while on a nostalgic surf through the website of Historic Bethlehem (PA, where I used to live) I found the following snippet: Linen comes from flax and almost every Pennsylvania German farmer planted a flax patch each spring to produce enough fiber to clothe his family. A labor-intensive crop, flax slowly declined in importance as wool and cotton production increased in the early 1800s. Devon, the reference here is: http://www.historicbethlehem.org/collections/shirt.jsp Must say I didn't realize self-sufficiency went that far that recently in the US! Another point or two Tamara's discussion raised in my mind--I have heard that the useful fiber in flax runs from the tip of the root to the top of the stalk, so the plants were pulled up rather than cut to be harvested for the finest (and smoothest) results--a much more tedious and dirtier process! Also, since harvesting for fiber meant losing most of the flax seed (which has since become the primary reason for growing flax, being the source of linseed oil) it wouldn't be difficult to lose the entire seed supply of a desireable fiber strain--all it would take would be one over-zealous harvest that failed to leave a few plants to ripen the seed completely. In unsettled or greedy times this seems horribly likely to have happened Sue in Raleigh At 01:48 AM 11/19/2004 -0500, Tamara wrote: But, to come back to the thread and the thread... :) The Irish homestead grows flax for home use (which is then hand spun and woven, as it would have been whenever the family immigrated). When I last visited it...the man of the house was gearing up for flax harvest. Many of the flax stalks were about my height (5ft2in; 62 inches, ca 157cm), some were above my head, some no higher than my waist (all were in a cramped environment, as the whole field is miniature). Naturally, I was *extremely interested* in how he was going to deal with that, and, like all the other curators/interpreters, he responded with relish to genuine interest... He wasn't going to hunt up the longest stalks one by one, the way they might have been hunted even in his lifetme (late 18th century I think), but he still wasn't going to wade in with an undiscriminate scythe, cutting everthing at the same level (as low as possible). He was gonna take a sickle, and harvest the clumps of longest stalks first - they'd make the finest fabric - for handkerchiefs, childrens' wear, women's underwear, etc. Only then he'd take a scythe to the rest. But, even so, the slightly shaded spot, where the flax was stunted and the stalks short, would be harvested separately - only good for sacks, he said. Susan Lambiris Raleigh, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
re: [lace] Cattern cakes
Hi everyone and Carol who wrote: fashion, cylinder-shape, and the biscuits are cut from the 'Swiss roll' - that then gives them the characteristic *wheel* look, commemorating the wheel on which St Catherine was martyred and the caraway seeds supposedly represent the spikes on the wheel, chilling thought...or, they add spice to the dough in approaching winter I prefer the Cattern cookies 'short' with no leavening. Mixed lightly but thoroughly they are not heavy. bye for now Bev in Sooke, BC (west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins www.woodhavenbobbins.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] filet crochet in Piecework
Hi everyone Check out the Piecework issue here: http://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/default.asp There are a couple of nice freebies from the web, too. However if I was feeling cranky I would take issue with them about their 'holiday bells in filet crochet' - the crochet isn't a bell at all, but a scarf-end with bells in the design. But it is a free pattern ;) -- bye for now Bev, not cranky because it is sunny g, in Sooke, BC (west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins www.woodhavenbobbins.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Catterns Cakes
Thanks for the recipe, Lynne. I might try that for next Saturday - when it is a Bring a Plate Lace Day! It looks like a nice version of the recipe. And Happy Birthday, when it arrives! from Liz in Melbourne, Oz, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] re: reticent list members
I have been lurking on this list for awhile now - seeing all the posts about a quiet list - maybe you won't mind my asking a few questions. I am a wannabe lacemaker, not even a beginner - I have bobbins, some thread and pins, even a few prickings - I have balked at the purchase of a pillow and would like to know: 1. What type of pillow most of you would recommend? Is there such a thing as an economically priced lace pillow? g 2. And how would you recommend that a beginner learn on her/his own? I live in an area where there are no lacemakers and no lacemaking classes. Is there a book that's especially good for beginners? A particular type of lace that is best for beginners to start with? Thanks for any advice and I hope you pardon such ignorance. :-) Sherri - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] re: reticent list members
Dear Sherri, Welcome! And let me, on behalf of the Arachne list, assure you that we don't mind questions of any sort!! Asking questions is how you learn. Pillows: there are all sorts of pillows around the world, and, depending on where you live, I'm sure that someone will be able to recommend a supplier of an economical pillow to start with. Here in Australia, most beginners start with a styrene-type pillow (not just the fruit box variety, which breaks down as soon you put a pin in it), shaped a bit like a mushroom. They are quite economical to buy, last quite a long time. I usually advise a beginner to use one of these pillows to learn the basics. Then, once you've learnt a bit more, and perhaps developed the feeling about which type of lace you're likely to specialise in, buy a pillow especially suited to that type of lace. For instance, I make a lot of long lengths of lace, so I have a pillow which has a roller in it, and I just work round and round the roller until I've got enough length for whatever project I'm working. I taught myself lacemaking from Rosemary Shepherd's book An Introduction to Bobbin Lacemaking. It was based on a series of correspondence lessons which Rosemary wrote especially for lacemakers living hundreds of miles away from a teacher (in Australia). So, as you can imagine, it contains step by step and detailed instructions which enable someone to become a competent lacemaker on their own. Most people would prefer to have a teacher beside them, but I honestly feel that having to nut out a problem by myself made me a better lacemaker. I frequently meet lacemakers who've been making the same type lace for 20 or 25 years, and still need someone to tell them what to do next - because they've always been so reliant on a teacher to give them minute instructions (and because the teacher has been silly enough to do so!) Again, depending on where you live, someone should be able to tell you where you can get Rosemary's book, or some other substitute. Good luck with the lacemaking! Ruth Budge (Sydney, Australia) Sherri Butler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:I have been lurking on this list for awhile now - seeing all the posts about a quiet list - maybe you won't mind my asking a few questions. I am a wannabe lacemaker, not even a beginner - I have bobbins, some thread and pins, even a few prickings - I have balked at the purchase of a pillow and would like to know: 1. What type of pillow most of you would recommend? Is there such a thing as an economically priced lace pillow? 2. And how would you recommend that a beginner learn on her/his own? I live in an area where there are no lacemakers and no lacemaking classes. Is there a book that's especially good for beginners? A particular type of lace that is best for beginners to start with? Thanks for any advice and I hope you pardon such ignorance. :-) Sherri Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies. http://au.movies.yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Royal Mail
I've had mixed luck with sending/receiving packages from the UK and environs, but it's usually not to bad for stuff coming, what, 7000 miles? I've mostly shipped books, so my experience may be a bit biased, but the shipping time has averaged between a week and three weeks. Quickest was a hug box of books from the Royal Irish Academy, and slowest was a slender volume on shetland lace (see? obligatory lace content! ;o), but I suspect that with the latter, there was the waiting for things to clear with my funds, so no biggy. And heck, the huge boxes of books I had shipped home when I was over there on vacation in 2002 actually beat me home! (and I was shipping from a fairly small town) I like to think the wait and the anticipation are part of the fun, or at the very least, part of the learning process I occasionally have to go through when life reminds me to order supplies ahead of time, and not at the last minute. Just my two pennies' worth! --sue, on a snowy-but-it's-not-sticking November evening in Montana (USA) Annette Gill wrote: Pipers silk is being shipped from *UK*, not from US and, currently, they're telling me that the delivery time *within UK* is 21 days (as I'd said in my message). Possibly, there's a problem with the British PO; I wouldn't know, it has not been reported in my newspaper. I think the 21 days being quoted by Pipers includes the possible delay in sending out the threads. Standard post in Britain, whether first or second class, doesn't take anywhere near that long. There have been well-publicised problems with the Royal Mail in the last year or two, but it usually means that first class post might not get there the next day (as it's supposed to) and second class post could take several days. (Don't get me started on things going missing completely...) Pipers don't guarantee to send orders out immediately, though in practice I've found they usually do. I think that's why they won't commit themselves to anything faster than 21 days. Regards, Annette, London (where the post is particularly bad these days) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Sherri's pillow question
I have been lurking on this list for awhile now - seeing all the posts about a quiet list - maybe you won't mind my asking a few questions. I am a wannabe lacemaker, not even a beginner - I have bobbins, some thread and pins, even a few prickings - I have balked at the purchase of a pillow and would like to know: 1. What type of pillow most of you would recommend? Is there such a thing as an economically priced lace pillow? g 2. And how would you recommend that a beginner learn on her/his own? I live in an area where there are no lacemakers and no lacemaking classes. Is there a book that's especially good for beginners? A particular type of lace that is best for beginners to start with? Thanks for any advice and I hope you pardon such ignorance. :-) Sherri Dear Sherry, If you want to try bobbin lace and don't want to make a large investment in a pillow until you know you want to continue, there are several solutions: 1. You could wrap a roll of toilet paper in a cloth. Smoothly and tightly wrap the cloth a couple of times around the roll and whip stitch the end of the cloth on the roller. Put the roller in any convenient box or basket to keep it from rolling around and that allows access to the top half of the roll. You can also pad the space in front of the roll with a towel or anything that would make a smooth apron for the bobbins to rest on. 2. A piece of pool noodle can be used instead of the roll of toilet paper in #1. 3. A flat pillow can be made that is good for a couple of uses simply by covering a piece of half inch thick foam core board (available at craft and framing supplies shops.) Double stick tape the board to a substantial piece of wood or heavy cardboard and cover with cloth, tightly and smoothly, mitering the corners. Tape or tack the cloth to the bottom. An alternative to a bottom piece for weight is to use Rubbermaid shelf padding. It is a roll of rubber mesh. Place a piece of the rubber mesh under the board to prevent it from slipping. 4. The Lace Museum uses foam kick boards (swimming helps for new swimmers) for large numbers of pillows for school classes. Use with or without a cloth cover. This works well with the rubber mesh also. 5. If you want a useable pillow for the longer term, there are foam cookie pillows for US$20-25 from some of the lace vendors. See http://www.lacefairy.com for online lace vendors. Some foam pillows are sold with a cover and some without. You may like the look of a block pillow and there are pillows called All in One, that have a removable block that can be replaced by a roller. 6. If you want to make your own pillow, the lacefairy site has good directions or links to directions for several different kinds of pillows. Rollers are good for yardage, flat cookie pillows or block pillows are good for tape lace and making motifs. The place to start making lace almost inevitably is what I have always called the beginner's bandage. This is a plain, straight strip of samples of the various basic stitches. From there, you have a choice of simple Torchon or simple Tape Lace. Some people start with Honiton, because that is where their heart is. Since you are not near other lacemakers or lace teachers, I would highly recommend a beginner's book such as Rosemary Shepard's Bobbin Lacemaking. I recommend getting a book because you will get a unified approach with a thought out sequence of skill building. In the beginning you can lean on the book, but you will probably become independent quite rapidly. Whatever you decide to do, make lots of notes. Record what works and what doesn't. Record your questions and answers and how you got them answered. A beginner's lace journal would be a fabulous record. Before you start to play with the bobbins on any piece, think of what you expect it to look like. When you make a piece of lace, make a note of where you got the pattern, what size thread you used and how long it took you prepare the pattern, wind the bobbins and work the lace. Prick your patterns before you start working the lace. While you may eventually decide that you prefer not to pre-prick patterns, at least at the beginning, pre-prick you patterns so that you have one less element to think about. If you are going to make several samples, wind half of your bobbins as full as you can, then wind off enough to work the sample onto an empty bobbin. When you finish the first sample, unwind and discard the small amount of thread from the second bobbin, wind off more thread from the full bobbin and make some more lace. The bottom line is that everything depends on you; what you want, how much you are willing or able to invest, how adventurous you are, how quickly you usually learn new things and most of all: how hungry you are to make lace! Good luck and remember that we all were in you shoes at one time. Don't hesitate to ask questions on Arachne. Personally, there
[lace] The Rocks excavated bobbins.
have just started to read another book and I have found some illustrations of the bobbins. They are not really good enough for me to speculate further than to say that one is a South Bucks with the neck and head missing(?) but the design is just the tiniest bit suspect. At first I was going to say it was not a bobbin at at all, then I tried to imagine a head and neck on it and that made me feel a bit better. The other two are slim Bedfordshire bobbins. One with circular inscribed rings halfway down the shaft (which is not typical of any particular known maker) also I suspect that the tail is missing as well as the neck and head. The second is a slim gracefull inwards curved shaft, which could be any maker, again with the neck and head missing. I have hopes to possibly identify this ones maker. It is all very well trying to identify by pictures, sometimes you can do it reasonably easily, but without head,neck and tails, most ot the maker specific detail is not there. I really hope I get to see them some time in the future. There are also illustrated some thimbles,which look quite nice; one of them in particular. The pins, very rusted, so presumably not brass. I would think that in the early 1800s they would all have been using brass pins??? Certainly the head in the middle of the pin points to the removeable head being pushed down the shaft. I am not at hoome to look at my reference books. (house sitting at our sons place) Can someone remind me re dates of brass pins and general use in lace making, please? Thanks Most interesting diversion to ponder on a cold windy day 18C!! It was 32 C yesterday when we arrived and i was planning to start swimming every day!! Not today thank you. I like to swim when the water temperature is say 23C :) [Just making you cold climate folks envious] Bye for now Brian in Copacabana.. Australia (yes, thats true) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Helping Newbies
In a message dated 11/19/04 8:07:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Again, depending on where you live, someone should be able to tell you where you can get Rosemary's book, or some other substitute. Dear Newbies, This is key to helping you. We cannot tell from some e-mail addresses where a person is writing from. If we knew, we might be able to connect Newbies with lace groups near you, and that is a very nice way to begin lacemaking. There are lacemakers in many places, but they are difficult to find on your own. They will know what supplies are available locally, and some groups even have pillows to loan to Newbies for a small deposit (which will be returned to you when you return the borrowed supplies). In this way, you would be able to try out lacemaking without a substantial investment up front - by which I mean, before you know if you like making lace. Perhaps I am naive, but I do not think someone is going to appear on your front doorstep based on an e-mail address in a country or even locality. I have not had anyone do so, and I always put my state's name and nation next to my signature. I do use a nickname, which does not appear in legal/official records. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Beginning Lacemaking
Sherry, Welcome to the wonderful, addictive, world of Lacemaking. Ruth and Patty have given you excellent advice. I, too, would have recommended the Rosemary Shepherd book if they had not got in first!! A group of ladies in Darwin - right up in the top end of Oz, used a copy of that book to learn, and they are all great lacemakers, now. They had no teacher, but just worked slowly through the book, and it got them off to a wonderful start. One other point - use 100% cotton or a linen thread only. Polycotton, or polyester threads may have pretty colours - but they are stretchy, and are very difficult to work with, as they have minds of their own!!. Cotton has no stretch, so your lace can be better tensioned, and will look much better, than if you used a man-made thread. You will have enough to think about without a non-co-operative thread! Very good luck with it. I know that everyone on the Lace List will be happy to answer any questions, so don't be shy! They all help me out with answers to anything I ask about. No question is dumb, and I doubt if you can think up any questions that we have not asked at some time!!! Learning on your own is difficult, so use this Lace List as the best resource for help. from Liz in Melbourne, Oz, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace-chat] Re: ice-cream (lace-chat)
Helene wrote: It was beautiful, but I can get those metal containers anymore, they're all plastic now, and the inside stays where it is. Maybe I could try icecream cubes? No need for any magic containers, just pick up a chap plastic container that holds two litres from the grocery store, put the mixture in and forget about it. I did put it in my bunny face muffin tins once, that was an interesting challenge getting it out, I think if I put plastic wrap in first then the ice cream I might have more success. It takes more time to get the mixer out and then clean it than it takes to make this lovely rich stuff - yummy. Of course the big decision is always who gets to clean out the bowl, the DH or our enormous always looking for food old english sheepdog. Lynn Scott, Wollongong, Australia To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace-chat] Boys Jeans Sizes!
Gidday all, A strange question for you - here in Suriname we can buy very cheap good brand clothing that is imported from the US, including excellent quality denim jeans. I want to buy my 13 y.o. son clothes for Christmas, but as he lives in Australia and is growing at a huge rate of knots I need to make sure they fit when I take them over to him in January, because they won't be able to be exchanged. He tells me he is now a boys size 14 for trousers, but the sizes here are in numbers completely foreign to me. Can anyone tell me what an Australian boys 14 is in American sizes please? TIA Michelle Long an Aussie living in Suriname feeling hungry after reading the talk about Cattern cakes Ian Chelle Long +597 352505 To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace-chat] New Car
Having noted what everyone said, and sat in just about every smallish car on the market, I came back to the Ford Fusion. Finally test drove and ordered one today. DH agreed that it was the one that I got into and out of with the most ease and thought that I seemed most at ease driving that than anything else. So in about four weeks (had to give notice to the Building Society to withdraw the money) we should be collecting it. Just got to get the VW Polo running smoothly (if I can convince a mechanic that it isn't), then try to sell it. Jean in Poole To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace-chat] Re: Foods in General
At 11:19 AM 11/18/04 +1100, Elizabeth Ligeti wrote: I found that most of the foods in the United States were SO sweet - loaded with sugar, - even Allbran, plain cornflakes, - and bread. - Try having a vegemite sandwich on sweet bread Yuk! I grew up on it, and all that sugar in stuff that isn't supposed to be sweet turns my stomach. I had a long acrimony recently with a fellow who just couldn't believe I didn't like sugary chili! (Sugar is particularly nasty when combined with tomato.) Even toothpaste is sweetened, and I can't rinse the taste out of my mouth. I do a lot of my shopping at the health-food store. -- Joy Beeson http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson/ http://home.earthlink.net/~dbeeson594/ROUGHSEW/ROUGH.HTM http://home.earthlink.net/~beeson_n3f/ http://www.timeswrsw.com/craig/cam/ (local weather) west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A. where it's rainy with patches of fog and, at 60F, warm for so late in the fall. To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace-chat] Re: Boys Jeans Sizes!
On Nov 19, 2004, at 23:44, Joy Beeson wrote: Perhaps it would be better to ask for measurements of his trousers. *Definitely* the best idea... The fashion trends (at the waist, on the hips, half-way-down-the-butt) vary almost from locality to locality, and many teenagers want to stay hip - within their community. Even those who do not, tend to have pretty strong ideas about what they like (when my son was a teenager, he didn't care about the current fashion, but the waistband had to be just so, as did the length of the inseam, as did the depth of the pockets - for goodness sake! - and the weight of the denim, and who knows what else...). Anything that didn't meet the requirements *precisely* got a thanks, Mama, and was shoved to the back of the closet, with it wasn't comfortable offered as an explanation when I asked why I saw some of the pants in the laundry daily and some not at all. Since I did exactly the same thing as a teenager, I couldn't even blame him... :) --- Tamara P Duvall http://lorien.emufarm.org/~tpd Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
