Re: [lace] Dora's Methods & Stitching Suggestions
In a message dated 7/31/05 3:39:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I use both blue (removed with water) and purple (marks disappear when they > dry) marking pens for my "counted cross stitch" (LOL) embroidery. I draw a > grid on the fabric in blue ink, then mark the stitches in blue or purple, > depending on how long I think it's going to take me to work the stitches. > Purple marks often disappear in a few hours and nearly always in a couple of > days. > > I always wash in plain cool water when done, then in mild detergent.Ink > comes right out when it gets wet. Then I lay out in a towel and blot, then > iron almost dry, then spread out somewhere to finish drying.Now, of > course, I've learned to embroider so that my fabric no longer has to be > worked into shape when I'm done stitching!(grin) > > I read somewhere that many detergents can set the stuff. > > I think some of the packages say this, or some of it, and some don't.Not > sure how carefully everyone reads it. No heat and no detergent. > > Yours, > Dora Smith > Austin, Texas > Dear Dora and Other Stitchers, As I understand it, the ink applied with purple pens evaporates and disappears just as soon as it dries, but I do not know the chemical formula and what long-term results will be. Anyone have experience with this? I'm asking because someone may want to embroider an initial on a handkerchief to which they added lace. They would not be happy if the initial area rotted out before the rest of the fabric. To any who are speed readers: Please read this memo carefully before asking questions to which I've given the answers. Here are some suggestions and things to consider. The operative word here is "consider" - I know these concepts will be new to many who might beg to disagree; others may think them worth a try: Are you using counted cross stitch graphs and evenweave fabrics, Dora? If so, I recommend you baste the center lines north to south, and east to west with one strand of *pastel-colored thread* over and under every 4 threads. As you embroider, you can pick it out, but it helps you keep your place on the graph, which usually has center lines marked. The following is not for table linens/doilies/guest towels/curtains and similar things. It is for framed embroideries/pillow tops/clothing inserts and similar things. I line my evenweave fabric with delicate white batiste fabric before starting to stitch. This batiste is first put in HOT water to remove sizing and to pre-shrink it, steam pressed, then basted to the wrong side of evenweave (over/under the 4 stitches). Then, I attach the whole to stretcher bars so it is squared up (I don't use hoops) and tight as a drum. With stretcher bars you must sit at a table, rest almost 1/2 the stretcher on the table and weight it with a heavy book to keep it from moving, and use the stab stitch (not scooping). Many stitchers find they are able to avoid a lot of neck and back pain in this position. You are able to use both hands (dumb hand pushes needle up from under, smart hand makes the stitch on top with some assistance from dumb hand). This takes practice of about two days, but the results are worth it in better tension and speed. And, if necessary, you can use a laying tool in dumb hand to smooth stitches. Another tip is to *position the needle eye in line with the slant of the stitch on both up and down stitches*, which will mean less twisting of multiple threads around each other within stitches. You still have to slightly roll the needle in your fingers after several stitches to keep from needing to drop the needle to get twists out of the thread. The reasons I line my evenweave fabric are: It keeps stitches where you place them, since evenweaves sometimes have holes that allow stitches to pull and pucker. It helps to cut down on shadows, when you have to make *small jumps* from one place to another, as is often the case in modern charts. It gives more opportunity for anchoring tails securely and in such a way that they do not shadow to the top. It gives strength when it is time to frame or sew the finished work. Be absolutely sure you preshrink the batiste! Otherwise, you cannot wash the embroidery without horrible consequences. It is OK if the evenweave shrinks slightly and tightens up the stitches; it is NOT OK if the lining shrinks. Spinners and Weavers: I would not advise trying this lining technique with fabrics spun and woven at home until you've tested them for shrinkage! I start embroidering from the center and finish the bottom half, then turn my work and chart around and do the top half, starting from the center. This pushes any ripples in the batiste out to the edges. If you work from outer edges toward the center, the center stitches may become crowded and may not be uniform in size, whether lined or not. Now, if you need to keep your place while stit
[lace] Fun at home and adhesives
Hi All, Currently I am working on a little edging for a wedding cake card designed by Kirsty-Ellen West. It is driving me straight up a wall!! Very happy to have to clean the house tomorrow and having little time to lace this one. Some of us who do like to 'secure' the ends of projects that are going to be given away and know nothing of how they will be handled or cared for regardless of instructions are using archival glue. I know of one vendor in the U.S. who sells archival glue but I found mine at a scrapbooking store. It is clear with a fine point on one end and a wide point on the other end. So far it has worked out marvelously and used sparingly appears to keep the fabric [threads] as soft as they were on the rest of the lace. As to how it will be in 10 - 15 yrs. from now, I haven't a clue, but since it is acid free, one hopes it remains as good as it was the day it was used. Jane O IL. USA [EMAIL PROTECTED] Take time to laugh, it is the music of the soul - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Waxing thread for bobbin lace
if you want to have colored linen thread, wrap it around a thin roll of padding wrapped in cloth and put it in a dye bath. once it is dyed then you can just let it dry and wind it on the bobbins. --- Tamara P Duvall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I love making BL with linen and would probably do it more often if it could be had fine and in > colours; as it is, I don't do it very often, but, once in a while, I > get a craving that won't be denied :) > > -- > Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ > Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) > > - > To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the > line: > unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > from susan in tennessee,u.s.a. __ Yahoo! Mail for Mobile Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Fwd: [lace] Re: Catastrophy
Quite obviously, this was meant to go to the entire list, so I'm forwarding... From: Jean Barrett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: July 31, 2005 4:28:13 EDT To: Tamara P Duvall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [lace] Re: Catastrophy On Jul 29, 2005, at 22:07, Andy Blodgett wrote: Today I left my bobbin lace for a while and covered it nicely but, but forgot to put the hold down over the bobbins. I set it to one side and later in the day was doing something right beside the pillow and dumped it upside down. Lots of un-lady like words followed shortly there after. It took me about 20 minutes to straighten everything out. Hi Andy and All, I think that almost all lace makers have had tis happen at one time or another. At least you have learnt that it is possible, (usually) to recover from such a disaster. My last similar such incident was when my pillow, with a fan nicely set up, 75+ pairs was parked on my pillow stand. Now the stand has a top that can be tilted at different angles and I had neglected to tighten the mechanism enough. With so many bobbins the weight distribution was uneven and sufficient to slowly tip the top. The trouble was I could see this happening and I couldn't reach it in time! Amazingly no broken threads and eventually, bit by bit, all was sorted and the pillow back on a different stand without a moveable top! Jean in Cleveland U.K. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] fun at home!!!
Hi Irene, Have you thought of putting on some of your music(loudly) when you make lace! Give him a taste of his own medicine and maybe teach him what music is supposed to be. I suppose you should check with the other neighbours first. I have a mat that has been sitting on my pillow for a while and I really should get stuck into it but I'm busy at the moment sewing costumes for a show. Maybe I can use the lace as a stress reliever (though not outside as it doesn't get much above 8C at the moment) :) Janette in chilly Canberra, Australia -Original Message- From: Whitham [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, 1 August 2005 5:39 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject:[lace] fun at home!!! Dear lacemakers: For all of us that didn't go to convention let's have fun at home!!! I was just about to go outside to make lace in my garden when my neighbour decided to share his head-banging music with the rest of us. Not the quiet afternoon I had hoped for. What lace projects are you working on? Happy lacemaking, Irene Whitham, (looking for earplugs) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 28/07/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 28/07/2005 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] fun at home!!!
What lace projects are you working on? Hi Irene and other gentle Spiders: I'm ploughing ahead with my second 5-metre piece - the OIDFA pattern "Sneeuwpoppen". This time I'm keeping track of how much I do each week, because I want to finish it by September (started May 17th). I find I keep trying to outdo myself each week - so I'm spending more and more time on it - help! it's taking over my life! Last week I did 21 inches. I usually want to stay inside when I make lace - it may be hotter than outside but at least it's not windy or dirty (I live on a busy road and get lots of black dust on my patio). I may try sitting out this evening, though. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: fun at home!!!
On Jul 31, 2005, at 15:38, Whitham (Irene) wrote: What lace projects are you working on? 1) Pattern for the next (October) issue of the IOLI Bulletin; earrings. The sample in wire came out OK, so am now trying to see if the same pricking can be used for metallic thread (it can, but with modifications to the working method, number of pairs etc. Sigh. One pricking, but *two* sets of instructions, blast it). Trying to put in a few stitches into the Liers Butterfly every day, so as not to forget the few things I learnt with such effort :) One of the cotter pins holding the frame in place seems to have disapperaed - no wonder the tulle was beginning to sag lengthwise and making th chain stitch progressively more difficult... A screw is temporarily holding that end, and cotter pins are on the list for the next trip to WalMart... And I'm scribbling, scribling, scribbling - something I hate more than either pre-pricking or winding, but as inescapable. Once the scribbling is done, I'll be cutting, cutting, cutting - Debra is always reluctant to trim my "deathless prose" back to manageable proportions... :) Deadline is Aug 15, so I have about 10 days to get rid of the beast on my back. Then I'll go back to doodling with Rosalibre; bliss... :) Back to scribbling for now, -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks
Am dragging it back to lace, since it might be relevant... On Jul 31, 2005, at 18:01, Carol Adkinson wrote: Hi Jeri et al, I have followed the thread with a great deal of interest - despite feeling that none of my lace will be of heirloom quality, I would never have the nerve to use adhesives of any kind on my lace, but wonder if anyone can answer a question - not specifically for me, as I don't and won't use glues, but a student talked to Vivienne Walton about ending lace with adhesives on the knots ... Vivienne sells the glue-stuff - Fray-Check I think - and does recommend it heartily if one doesn't like doing sewings, and my student was telling the others in the class about this miracle stuff. Thankfully, they did ask my opinion, and I truthfully told them that I have never used it, and wouldn't want to try, just in case ... but a couple of them were very taken by the idea. So - does anyone know how long it has been around, and if there are any adverse reports so far. And how long could it be before something nasty happens to the colour of the lace??? I know that Vivienne uses it on her items, and they look beautiful, so I do wonder if there could be any danger in using it - as I think there possibly could be! Thanks for your help ... Carol - in Suffolk UK. Because of sheer laziness, I used Fray-Check, about 15 yrs ago, on some inside seams of a silk shirt. Can't say about brown-staining - the shirt itself is sort-of muddy brown - but those seams became razor-sharp the moment they dried; none of your soft, pliable, plasticky glue feel. Because I love the colour and the cut of the shirt, I wear - and wash - it frequently. The seams are beginning to fray, but they're still scratchy, as if they'd been woven in wire or at least metallic thread, not silk. Yuck. The bottle got tossed immediately, and I never again used Fray-Check. Would not occur to me to use it on lace, even if the formula might have changed over the years. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pencil for tracing patterns
On Jul 31, 2005, at 4:01, Brenda Paternoster wrote: On 31 Jul 2005, at 02:00, Tamara P Duvall wrote: We were told to bring #5 pencil. [...] it was quite evident (from the speedier learners' efforts) that a pencil that hard may keep its point very well, but doesn't leave a very visible line behind it... What's a #5 pencil? 5H. Very hard, very pale, but keeps the tip well and doesn't smear. I think 2H is the hardest Walmart carries; in the arts/crafts store where we got or 5H, 6H was the hardest. The standard I use (little leads to insert in mechanical pencils, which I then sharpen for drawing but not for writing) is HB. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] fun at home!!!
Irene and Stay-at-Home Spiders, I am presently working flat-out on a garter for our daughter, who is getting married on October 15th - which seems a long time away, but we are going on holiday for five weeks on the 17th August, and so it needs to be done and dusted before I go! I feel heartily sorry for the lace-makers of olden times who made lace as a full-time job - I am even getting a sort of callous on the finger of my right hand ... I also have a decorative mat on the go on a large pillow, a gaudy-in-the-extreme clown picture in the making for my second grandson, a 'princess' for the four-year-old grand-daughter who is in training to become a princess herself, a bookmark for my Mum who sadly told the Ladies Guild at church that she hadn't had a bookmark from me (despite having lots of other things, no bookmark!) one of the 'egg' designs from the German book, and an extremely wide edging for my daughter-in-law's father's deacon's robes ... I think that is all!But they have all come to a halt until the garter is finished, and here I am on the computer instead of slaving away ... Carol - in Suffolk UK - where it is gloomy and grey, but not much actual rain today. Subject: [lace] fun at home!!! > Dear lacemakers: > > For all of us that didn't go to convention let's have fun at home!!! > > What lace projects are you working on? > - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks
It's quite a while since I have made any samplers but I seem to remember the recommendation was to wash them when they are finished to remove the oils and perspiration rubbed off from the hands when sewing. The same would apply to lace making. Perspiration can rot fabric overtime, lace is no different. Therefore if you are making something that will hopefully become an heirloom it should be washed when completed. Unfortunately lace never seems to look the same once it has been washed and needs something to crispen it up again and there you have another problem. Jane Portchester UK Dora Smith > Sent: 31 July 2005 21:15 > > I always wash my samplers in cool water when I'm done, then mild detergent > (like dish detergent), and the marks always come right out the minute they > get wet. > > I read somewhere that washing them in detergent sets the ink. I don't > remember seeing anything about heat - but who would iron their product > before washing, blotting, and stretching it?I think possibly some > packages say all this and some don't. > > > > From: "C. Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 3:09 PM > > > > We forget that an actual washing is truely the finishing of many of the > > textile arts. > - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Fwd: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks
The author has asked that I forward this, because it was addressed just to me. I have been delayed because of answering piles of personal letters for the last few hours. Enjoy, Jeri Ames Return-Path: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Received: from rly-yi02.mx.aol.com (rly-yi02.mail.aol.com [172.18.180.130]) by air-yi03.mail.aol.com (v106.2) with ESMTP id MAILINYI34-7b342ed28cd393; Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:39:11 -0400 Received: from ms-smtp-01-eri0.texas.rr.com (ms-smtp-01.texas.rr.com [24.93.47.40]) by rly-yi02.mx.aol.com (vx) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINYI25-7b342ed28cd393; Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:38:53 -0400 Received: from villandr (cpe-70-113-19-125.austin.res.rr.com [70.113.19.125]) by ms-smtp-01-eri0.texas.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id j6VJcoH9000838 for <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:38:51 -0500 (CDT) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> From: "Dora Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:38:49 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4807.1700 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4807.1700 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine X-AOL-IP: 24.93.47.40 I use both blue (removed with water) and purple (marks disappear when they dry) marking pens for my "counted cross stitch" (LOL) embroidery. I draw a grid on the fabric in blue ink, then mark the stitches in blue or purple, depending on how long I think it's going to take me to work the stitches. Purple marks often disappear in a few hours and nearly always in a couple of days. I always wash in plain cool water when done, then in mild detergent.Ink comes right out when it gets wet. Then I lay out in a towel and blot, then iron almost dry, then spread out somewhere to finish drying.Now, of course, I've learned to embroider so that my fabric no longer has to be worked into shape when I'm done stitching!(grin) I read somewhere that many detergents can set the stuff. I think some of the packages say this, or some of it, and some don't.Not sure how carefully everyone reads it. No heat and no detergent. Yours, Dora Smith Austin, Texas [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - To: Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 2:22 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks > Same with vanishing ink blue marking pen formulas, which may be made by more > than one manufacturer. If you insist on using the blue vanishing ink pens, > use COLD water, and do not apply heat until after the COLD bath has removed all > traces of the blue. Heat will set the markings, and they will never come out. > I do not advocate use of the blue pens anymore, because of horror stories > from people who thought they followed the directions. If you dab away the blue > with cold water, you may get water rings, and I do not know if they will come > out later. If you use the pens in a damp climate, they may disappear from > moisture in the air before you finish working your design. On quilts, markings > have reappeared years later as brown lines. Others have fallen apart at the > markings. These are all reports I have heard directly from victims. > > Jeri Ames in Maine USA > Lace & Embroidery Resource Center > - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] S and Z - Choosing & caring for unusual materials
Hadn't thought of that one, but by 'spool' I think you are referring to the little sewing machine spool that takes the under-thread. I was referring to the spools on which the thread originally comes (Gutermann, Coats, Molnlycke, DMC etc etc). Re: the spools used for the under thread in a lock stitch sewing machine; I have a Frister-Rosman machine and although the spool case is fixed the spool inside does rotate (anti-clockwise) as the stitches are made. It is the hook around the outside of the spool case which moves backwards and forwards to catch the thread already released from the spool for each stitch. I think most other makes of machine work in a similar way. One thing that I know *is* significant with sewing machines is that they are designed for use with Z spun threads, 3Z for regular seam stitching and 2Z for satin stitch embroidery. Brenda On 31 Jul 2005, at 13:20, Carolyn Hastings wrote: Brenda -- This is probably nothing to do with the price of beans in China (that is, not significant) but on a lot of sewing machines (I have a Singer, a Viking, and a Bernina) the spool is not free to rotate; therefore the thread revolves around the spool as it is pulled off. Which is interesting to me -- I hadn't thought of it before -- why doesn't the thread get overtwisted as it seems to if I wind a bobbin in that manner?? Oh well, the mysteries of life. Regards, Carolyn There are a variety of spool shapes around and they all seem to work on sewing machines because the spool is free to rotate on the spindle. Brenda http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks
I replied privately to Jeri by accident, because this list is set up so that if you click reply you don't reply to the list (grrr), then I wrote and asked her, please post what I just sent you to the list, and either she hasn't, or she hasn't yet seen it. What a nuisance! My second post might not contain as much... I use blue marking pens (marks wash out with water) and purple marking pens (marks vanish when dry) for "counted cross stitch". I always wash my samplers in cool water when I'm done, then mild detergent (like dish detergent), and the marks always come right out the minute they get wet. I read somewhere that washing them in detergent sets the ink. I don't remember seeing anything about heat - but who would iron their product before washing, blotting, and stretching it?I think possibly some packages say all this and some don't. Yours, Dora Smith Austin, Texas [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: "C. Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Barb ETx" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 3:09 PM Subject: RE: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks > Oh good grief, how simple and of course it is the most excellent solution. > Thanks for sharing. I am trying that solution today as I sew this new > section of my lace. > > We forget that an actual washing is truely the finishing of many of the > textile arts. > > May the sun shine brightly on your projects today! > Susie Johnson > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Morris, IL USA > http://home.comcast.net/~cjohnson0969/home.html > > > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of > Barb ETx > Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 2:46 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; lace@arachne.com > Subject: Re: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks > > > Well I have to jump in here. Many years ago I gave a piece of lace to a > friend and several years later I 'borrowed' it to use in a display. I was > horrified to see brown spots where I used Fray Chek. So I washed it and > with > just a dab of bleach it recovered, beautifully. > Needless to say I have never used Fray Chek since!!! > > When finishing the closing, etc., I use an eye dropper and saturate the > threads with water...plain old water. Let it dry thoroughy. The threads > shrink and have never had anything come open. > BarbE > - Original Message - > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: lace@arachne.com > Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 2:22 PM > Subject: Re: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks > > > In a message dated 7/29/05 3:50:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > > > Adele Shaak Wrote > > > on29 July 2005 01:13 > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Subject: [lace] Waxing thread for bobbin lace > > > > > > > > > If somebody has a piece that was made, say, at least 5-10 years ago, > > > that had beeswax on it, it would be interesting to hear from them as > to > > > the current condition of the piece. I am always very reluctant to put > > > *anything* onto my linen threads, since the very first linen doily I > > > made turned deep amber brown on the parts where I "reinforced" my > knots > > > with fabric glue. > > > > Can you remember what fabric glue you used? I sometime use fray check in > > sewing. My friend uses June Taylors fray stop glue. I would be > interested > > to know if any one has any long term experience of either. > > > > Jane > > Portchester UK > > > > Dear Lacemakers, > > My teachers have always said to find an alternative to any commercial > adhesive. That means iron-on materials, as well - they tend to discolor > and > stiffen > up, depending on climate, storage conditions and time. That said, there > are > some recipes that have stood the test of time. For example, a mixture of > rice > flour and water is used to very thinly paint the back of Japanese > embroideries > to secure all the floaty thread ends and any metal threads that have been > plunged to the back. If these embroideries are kept away from insects > that > might > like the rice content, they have tended to last well. And that is a big > concern -- insects like a lot of different adhesives, and they add stains > as > they > consume and eliminate. > > The reality is *we cannot know when commercial formulas change*. We do > not > know the long-term chemical reactions on a wide variety of fabrics. We do > not > know the chemical reactions between sizings in fabrics and the adhesives, > etc. > etc. > > Same with vanishing ink blue marking pen formulas, which may be made by > more > than one manufacturer. If you insist on using the blue vanishing ink > pens, > use COLD water, and do not apply heat until after the COLD bath has > removed > all > traces of the blue. Heat will set the markings, and they will never come > out. >I do not advocate use of the blue pens anymore, because of horror stories > f
RE: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks
Oh good grief, how simple and of course it is the most excellent solution. Thanks for sharing. I am trying that solution today as I sew this new section of my lace. We forget that an actual washing is truely the finishing of many of the textile arts. May the sun shine brightly on your projects today! Susie Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Morris, IL USA http://home.comcast.net/~cjohnson0969/home.html -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Barb ETx Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 2:46 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; lace@arachne.com Subject: Re: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks Well I have to jump in here. Many years ago I gave a piece of lace to a friend and several years later I 'borrowed' it to use in a display. I was horrified to see brown spots where I used Fray Chek. So I washed it and with just a dab of bleach it recovered, beautifully. Needless to say I have never used Fray Chek since!!! When finishing the closing, etc., I use an eye dropper and saturate the threads with water...plain old water. Let it dry thoroughy. The threads shrink and have never had anything come open. BarbE - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: lace@arachne.com Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 2:22 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks In a message dated 7/29/05 3:50:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > Adele Shaak Wrote > > on29 July 2005 01:13 > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: [lace] Waxing thread for bobbin lace > > > > > > If somebody has a piece that was made, say, at least 5-10 years ago, > > that had beeswax on it, it would be interesting to hear from them as to > > the current condition of the piece. I am always very reluctant to put > > *anything* onto my linen threads, since the very first linen doily I > > made turned deep amber brown on the parts where I "reinforced" my knots > > with fabric glue. > > Can you remember what fabric glue you used? I sometime use fray check in > sewing. My friend uses June Taylors fray stop glue. I would be interested > to know if any one has any long term experience of either. > > Jane > Portchester UK > Dear Lacemakers, My teachers have always said to find an alternative to any commercial adhesive. That means iron-on materials, as well - they tend to discolor and stiffen up, depending on climate, storage conditions and time. That said, there are some recipes that have stood the test of time. For example, a mixture of rice flour and water is used to very thinly paint the back of Japanese embroideries to secure all the floaty thread ends and any metal threads that have been plunged to the back. If these embroideries are kept away from insects that might like the rice content, they have tended to last well. And that is a big concern -- insects like a lot of different adhesives, and they add stains as they consume and eliminate. The reality is *we cannot know when commercial formulas change*. We do not know the long-term chemical reactions on a wide variety of fabrics. We do not know the chemical reactions between sizings in fabrics and the adhesives, etc. etc. Same with vanishing ink blue marking pen formulas, which may be made by more than one manufacturer. If you insist on using the blue vanishing ink pens, use COLD water, and do not apply heat until after the COLD bath has removed all traces of the blue. Heat will set the markings, and they will never come out. I do not advocate use of the blue pens anymore, because of horror stories from people who thought they followed the directions. If you dab away the blue with cold water, you may get water rings, and I do not know if they will come out later. If you use the pens in a damp climate, they may disappear from moisture in the air before you finish working your design. On quilts, markings have reappeared years later as brown lines. Others have fallen apart at the markings. These are all reports I have heard directly from victims. People keep supplies for long periods of time. In some cases, there may be a change in the chemicals because of transport in hot trucks, storage in very cold warehouses, etc. A good teacher will take the approach of telling people to try to stitch what needs to be attached, perhaps with a more delicate thread and needle, because thread is a safer choice. Museum curators are also very very leary of any adhesives - because any chemical reactions cannot be reversed. A few mending stitches can be carefully removed and replaced, if necessary. The only chemical product I trust on lace and embroidery is the soap formula for Orvus, the washing soap curators use. It has not changed in many years. I call the Procter & Gamble headquarters periodically to confirm this - which is probably more than anyone else on the Arachne list does. The re
RE: [lace] fun at home!!!
Hi Lacemakers. I am studying Honiton and my assignment is a poppy. I am about 1/2 done with it. I am working in 170/2 Egyptian Cotton. Unfortunately, I am lacing inside the house. I have a bad case of Poison ivy so the sun is not really what I need right now. That air conditioning feels wonderful. But I am sitting at a window and can see my lovely flowers as I work! May the sun shine brightly on your projects today! Susie Johnson Morris, Illinois USA [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.comcast.net/~cjohnson0969/home.html -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Whitham Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 2:39 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [lace] fun at home!!! Dear lacemakers: For all of us that didn't go to convention let's have fun at home!!! I was just about to go outside to make lace in my garden when my neighbour decided to share his head-banging music with the rest of us. Not the quiet afternoon I had hoped for. What lace projects are you working on? Happy lacemaking, Irene Whitham, (looking for earplugs) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] fun at home!!!
It is a lovely, but HOT afternoon here and I am hugging my a/c ;-) As for lace, I have just set up a Kortelahti edging for a hankie. It is the one that is all 1/2 stitch leaves. I really enjoy doing it.I made one before and it is lovely for the more contemporary bride. The TV is providing and afternoon of English mysteries and I love 'em. Just passed by the computer after refuiling my glass and saw the email. Have a happy, BarbE near Dallas TX - Original Message - From: Whitham To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 2:38 PM Subject: [lace] fun at home!!! Dear lacemakers: For all of us that didn't go to convention let's have fun at home!!! I was just about to go outside to make lace in my garden when my neighbour decided to share his head-banging music with the rest of us. Not the quiet afternoon I had hoped for. What lace projects are you working on? Happy lacemaking, Irene Whitham, (looking for earplugs) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks
Well I have to jump in here. Many years ago I gave a piece of lace to a friend and several years later I 'borrowed' it to use in a display. I was horrified to see brown spots where I used Fray Chek. So I washed it and with just a dab of bleach it recovered, beautifully. Needless to say I have never used Fray Chek since!!! When finishing the closing, etc., I use an eye dropper and saturate the threads with water...plain old water. Let it dry thoroughy. The threads shrink and have never had anything come open. BarbE - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: lace@arachne.com Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 2:22 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks In a message dated 7/29/05 3:50:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > Adele Shaak Wrote > > on29 July 2005 01:13 > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: [lace] Waxing thread for bobbin lace > > > > > > If somebody has a piece that was made, say, at least 5-10 years ago, > > that had beeswax on it, it would be interesting to hear from them as to > > the current condition of the piece. I am always very reluctant to put > > *anything* onto my linen threads, since the very first linen doily I > > made turned deep amber brown on the parts where I "reinforced" my knots > > with fabric glue. > > Can you remember what fabric glue you used? I sometime use fray check in > sewing. My friend uses June Taylors fray stop glue. I would be interested > to know if any one has any long term experience of either. > > Jane > Portchester UK > Dear Lacemakers, My teachers have always said to find an alternative to any commercial adhesive. That means iron-on materials, as well - they tend to discolor and stiffen up, depending on climate, storage conditions and time. That said, there are some recipes that have stood the test of time. For example, a mixture of rice flour and water is used to very thinly paint the back of Japanese embroideries to secure all the floaty thread ends and any metal threads that have been plunged to the back. If these embroideries are kept away from insects that might like the rice content, they have tended to last well. And that is a big concern -- insects like a lot of different adhesives, and they add stains as they consume and eliminate. The reality is *we cannot know when commercial formulas change*. We do not know the long-term chemical reactions on a wide variety of fabrics. We do not know the chemical reactions between sizings in fabrics and the adhesives, etc. etc. Same with vanishing ink blue marking pen formulas, which may be made by more than one manufacturer. If you insist on using the blue vanishing ink pens, use COLD water, and do not apply heat until after the COLD bath has removed all traces of the blue. Heat will set the markings, and they will never come out. I do not advocate use of the blue pens anymore, because of horror stories from people who thought they followed the directions. If you dab away the blue with cold water, you may get water rings, and I do not know if they will come out later. If you use the pens in a damp climate, they may disappear from moisture in the air before you finish working your design. On quilts, markings have reappeared years later as brown lines. Others have fallen apart at the markings. These are all reports I have heard directly from victims. People keep supplies for long periods of time. In some cases, there may be a change in the chemicals because of transport in hot trucks, storage in very cold warehouses, etc. A good teacher will take the approach of telling people to try to stitch what needs to be attached, perhaps with a more delicate thread and needle, because thread is a safer choice. Museum curators are also very very leary of any adhesives - because any chemical reactions cannot be reversed. A few mending stitches can be carefully removed and replaced, if necessary. The only chemical product I trust on lace and embroidery is the soap formula for Orvus, the washing soap curators use. It has not changed in many years. I call the Procter & Gamble headquarters periodically to confirm this - which is probably more than anyone else on the Arachne list does. The reasons for needing glues are often because of not considering problems in the designing phase. There are some designs for which lace or embroidery are not a suitable "medium". Consider the risks, and whether you are willing to tempt the fates. Many have joined the throw-away society, and these warnings may hold no meaning to you. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace & Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubsc
[lace] fun at home!!!
Dear lacemakers: For all of us that didn't go to convention let's have fun at home!!! I was just about to go outside to make lace in my garden when my neighbour decided to share his head-banging music with the rest of us. Not the quiet afternoon I had hoped for. What lace projects are you working on? Happy lacemaking, Irene Whitham, (looking for earplugs) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Adhesives & Blue Vanishing Pen Inks
In a message dated 7/29/05 3:50:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > Adele Shaak Wrote > > on29 July 2005 01:13 > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: [lace] Waxing thread for bobbin lace > > > > > > If somebody has a piece that was made, say, at least 5-10 years ago, > > that had beeswax on it, it would be interesting to hear from them as to > > the current condition of the piece. I am always very reluctant to put > > *anything* onto my linen threads, since the very first linen doily I > > made turned deep amber brown on the parts where I "reinforced" my knots > > with fabric glue. > > Can you remember what fabric glue you used? I sometime use fray check in > sewing. My friend uses June Taylors fray stop glue. I would be interested > to know if any one has any long term experience of either. > > Jane > Portchester UK > Dear Lacemakers, My teachers have always said to find an alternative to any commercial adhesive. That means iron-on materials, as well - they tend to discolor and stiffen up, depending on climate, storage conditions and time. That said, there are some recipes that have stood the test of time. For example, a mixture of rice flour and water is used to very thinly paint the back of Japanese embroideries to secure all the floaty thread ends and any metal threads that have been plunged to the back. If these embroideries are kept away from insects that might like the rice content, they have tended to last well. And that is a big concern -- insects like a lot of different adhesives, and they add stains as they consume and eliminate. The reality is *we cannot know when commercial formulas change*. We do not know the long-term chemical reactions on a wide variety of fabrics. We do not know the chemical reactions between sizings in fabrics and the adhesives, etc. etc. Same with vanishing ink blue marking pen formulas, which may be made by more than one manufacturer. If you insist on using the blue vanishing ink pens, use COLD water, and do not apply heat until after the COLD bath has removed all traces of the blue. Heat will set the markings, and they will never come out. I do not advocate use of the blue pens anymore, because of horror stories from people who thought they followed the directions. If you dab away the blue with cold water, you may get water rings, and I do not know if they will come out later. If you use the pens in a damp climate, they may disappear from moisture in the air before you finish working your design. On quilts, markings have reappeared years later as brown lines. Others have fallen apart at the markings. These are all reports I have heard directly from victims. People keep supplies for long periods of time. In some cases, there may be a change in the chemicals because of transport in hot trucks, storage in very cold warehouses, etc. A good teacher will take the approach of telling people to try to stitch what needs to be attached, perhaps with a more delicate thread and needle, because thread is a safer choice. Museum curators are also very very leary of any adhesives - because any chemical reactions cannot be reversed. A few mending stitches can be carefully removed and replaced, if necessary. The only chemical product I trust on lace and embroidery is the soap formula for Orvus, the washing soap curators use. It has not changed in many years. I call the Procter & Gamble headquarters periodically to confirm this - which is probably more than anyone else on the Arachne list does. The reasons for needing glues are often because of not considering problems in the designing phase. There are some designs for which lace or embroidery are not a suitable "medium". Consider the risks, and whether you are willing to tempt the fates. Many have joined the throw-away society, and these warnings may hold no meaning to you. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace & Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] S and Z - Choosing & caring for unusual materials
Brenda wrote: > OK, so you thread the leading end of thread into the needle. Do you > then pull a small part of the cut piece of thread through the eye or do > you pull 3/4 of it through? and what about if you are going to use the > thread double? > The short end, when machine stitching, is the old cut end directly off the end of the spool. Same for hand sewing--pull the old cut end a short way through, knot the just-cut end. If you use the thread doubled, which some consider "lazy" (you don't have to do as many stitches to get the same strength seam), it doesn't much matter. You will have half the thread going the wrong way, period. This directionality really only matters for embroidery or fancy handsewing (if at all), and then you use single thread (heirloom sewing) or two separate plies (embroidery). Those who use a single ply of embroidery floss doubled over, are usually doing it because they want it easier (easier to start), and don't care about the slight (invisible to most people) difference that comes from using two strands going the same direction. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA (formerly Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] coggeshall lace
Spurred into action by Margot, as Jacqui Barber is away, I've searched and found the teacher in Coggeshall. Her name is Sue Gann. If anyone is interested reply to me and I'll give you the details.I'll also try and post some photos in the webshots. Problem is we have a new PC and scanner and it is hard work getting the scanner to work properly. Wish me luck. Sheila in a mixed(cloud but no rain) Sawbridgeworth www.lace-helpandhistory.info - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] thread off the reel
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >[snip] the spools are *designed* for use in >sewing machines and so the thread has to be used as it comes off the >spool. I have been reading all of these posts about using machine sewing thread "as it comes off the spool" and wondering, "But what about the bobbin thread?" That is, the lower thread on the sewing machine. Every bobbin I've ever wound, I've wound straight off the thread spool and just stuck the bobbin in the machine, which would make the bobbin "backwards". I can't say I've ever noticed any difference in the behavior of the bobbin thread. So do all of you "as it comes off the spool" posters wind your sewing-machine bobbins twice, in order to get the bobbin thread going the right way? Lynn Carpenter in SW Michigan, USA alwen at i2k dot com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Research for Shrewsbury lacemaking
Hi Laurie, the website I think you may be referring to is:- [EMAIL PROTECTED] this is a wonderful site for learning lace and I have referred several beginners to it and have said that the moving bobbins help a lot. Happy lacing Sue M Harvey Just catching up on mail on my return from Ibiza Spain (where I could not find any lace perhaps I should have asked before I went) From: "Laurie Hughes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Cc: "'Dylan Edwards'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 12:47 PM Subject: [lace] Research for Shrewsbury lacemaking > A cartoonist/artist friend of mine is going to draw a long story about > Shrewsbury, UK, so he'd like to know more about bobbin lace. > > Does someone remember which website has a picture of moving bobbins on it? > > Does anyone have pictures (preferably moving pictures so he can get the gist > of the movements) of someone engaged in actual bobbin lacemaking? > > What kind of lace would have been made in Shrewsbury, from Tudor times to > the present? > > Would they be using those huge round bolsters with the pillow horse? Anyone > know where there's a couple good pictures of those? > > I'm sure I could answer this on my own, but not if I'm going to get ready > for the I.O.L.I. Convention, thanks for your help everyone! > > Laurie > > PS: He's copied on this message. > > -- > Laurie J Hughes > Metro Boston, Massachusetts > > Bobbin lace, social history, gardening > "When I grow up I want to be a housewife." > -- > > - > To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: > unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] S and Z - Choosing & caring for unusual materials
Brenda -- This is probably nothing to do with the price of beans in China (that is, not significant) but on a lot of sewing machines (I have a Singer, a Viking, and a Bernina) the spool is not free to rotate; therefore the thread revolves around the spool as it is pulled off. Which is interesting to me -- I hadn't thought of it before -- why doesn't the thread get overtwisted as it seems to if I wind a bobbin in that manner?? Oh well, the mysteries of life. Regards, Carolyn > > There are a variety of spool shapes around and they all seem > to work on > sewing machines because the spool is free to rotate on the > spindle. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] threading the needle
I hadn't heard of the importance of threading the cut end through a needle and I have done a lot of hand sewing over the years. These days I do little pieces of cross stitch as "light relief" from bobbin lace (I don't have to think so hard) and it is more portable when travelling. So, I buy cross stitch magazines if the contents appeal. More than once I have seen a tip to make starting easier. This is to double your thread and thread both cut ends throuogh the eye of the needle. The idea then is to leave a little loop on the reverse of the material and pass your needle and thread through it when the needle returns to the wrong side. I've never done this becaus I ahve a mean streak when it comes to thread and this method has always seemd wasteful: when you cut off the thread you are left with two short lengths rather than longer ones which can be used again. The point of this long winded tale is that the so called "experts" writing for these magazines are giving advice which Jeri would say spoils the appearance of the work and weakens the thread. And I rate Jeri's knowledge over theirs. Perhaps I should write a letter or two. :-) Patricia in Wales [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] S and Z - Choosing & caring for unusual materials
On 31 Jul 2005, at 05:37, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I don't know. I only know that the spools are *designed* for use in sewing machines and so the thread has to be used as it comes off the spool. Therefore, use it as it comes off the spool for handsewing. OK, so you thread the leading end of thread into the needle. Do you then pull a small part of the cut piece of thread through the eye or do you pull 3/4 of it through? and what about if you are going to use the thread double? There are a variety of spool shapes around and they all seem to work on sewing machines because the spool is free to rotate on the spindle. I think that what matters is that the thread comes off the spool, through the needle and into the stitch without being twisted/untwisted, the same reason that BL bobbins should be wound by rolling the bobbin onto the thread and not by wrapping the thread around the bobbin. Brenda http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Waxing thread for bobbin lace
On 31 Jul 2005, at 02:00, Tamara P Duvall wrote: We were told to bring #5 pencil. WalMart has never heard of it and, truth to tell, I heven't seen one since I left Poland (1972), so I didn't have one. Deb Bender (the organiser of the workshop) had supplied a box of them, for all other lame ducks like myself, but I never got to use it. By the time I got past the stitch-counting stage and to the free-drawn design, it was quite evident (from the speedier learners' efforts) that a pencil that hard may keep its point very well, but doesn't leave a very visible line behind it... What's a #5 pencil? In UK our pencils are graded from 9B, 8B..B, HB, H, 2H...9H with the B grades being progressively softer and blacker whilst the H grades are harder and less dark. The H grades are used mostly for technical drawings whist the B grades are used by artists. HB is the bog-standard writing pencil. Brenda http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
