RE: [lace] hitches & straws

[Karen]

That's what I used the straws for but it didn't work for me! Perhaps the
bobbins we use here have  necks that are too thick for straws, but yesterday
I came across two straws which are much thicker than usual, so I washed them
and kept them to try again!
Karen

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Elizabeth Ligeti
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 3:57 AM
To: Arachne
Subject: [lace] hitches & straws

That is an excellent video of how to do hitches.

I have used the split straws when using a metallic thread, - when the thread
had a mind of it's own!  It worked very well.

Regards from Liz in cold, grey, Melbourne
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[lace] hitches & straws

[Francis Busschaert]

Be aware of straws !
for the USA people under us their should be reading now under the text 
"do not do this at home"!


SO be aware of straws!!
they can cause more dammage then doing any good to your work
mostly it is of fine plastic/plastoïde material
whit extra harding compounds to make it tough for drinking/sipping
now because of the toughness of the plastic it works quite offen like a 
knif on your threads
if you use very fine silks made of flos silk/ continuous silk you can 
have very very unwanted fibres cuttings and so you get

some fluffyness on the threads
beleve me a "catastrophe general total"

their is a special silk-knot i learn all people wanting to see it
i promise to put it as fast as possible on the internet to show to all 
of you

i do not have a camera so it will be still fotos

all whom i learned it say WOW  is it that simple
yes it is and it is a world of difference
some are more underneath their table looking for the unwounded bobins
and rewinding them then making lace


i have the very unwanted feeling that to many people do not know the 
basic of lace

they can make binche
vallencienne and most other extremly time consuming laces but the real basic
before you start is mostly lacking..

in most of their minds they are here (in the payed classes) to do lace
not to wound bobbins..
mostly they do it at home between their patatoe peeling and the 
carots-scrapping

that gives an idea of how important they think it is
WRONG WRONG WRONG!!!
it is of the uttermost importancel!!!
that is were the "catastrophe general total" begins
and not the sice of the bobin
the color of the bobin
the extra head or what ever
nope
no no

i promise to put the fotos on a website this weekend
it will be in english, well you knwo my english (Belgo-beneluxenglish)
but you will nderstand

kind regards

francis




Karen schreef:

That's what I used the straws for but it didn't work for me! Perhaps the
bobbins we use here have  necks that are too thick for straws, but yesterday
I came across two straws which are much thicker than usual, so I washed them
and kept them to try again!
Karen

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Elizabeth Ligeti
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 3:57 AM
To: Arachne
Subject: [lace] hitches & straws

That is an excellent video of how to do hitches.

I have used the split straws when using a metallic thread, - when the thread
had a mind of it's own!  It worked very well.

Regards from Liz in cold, grey, Melbourne
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[lace] Roller or block - how to make and use pricking segments for use on a block pillow (long)

[Jane Partridge]

In response to Nancy's note on lace-chat, I thought this might be of use 
to others new to using block pillows. No doubt we all have different 
ways of making and using pattern segments, this is the way I do it.


In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Nancy 
Nicholson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes
>I would just like to thank everyone for the input for this question of 
mine. >I have just bought a nine piece block pillow with a roller insert 
so am set >up now.

Just don't know what to do with it though...

Do you mean how to use it, or which of the projects you want to do, to 
do first?


If the latter, I doubt any of us can help, but if the former:

As a block pillow, you can use it with complete patterns - eg a 
bookmark, where if you were using a round pillow the bobbins would be 
over the edge by the time you reach the bottom. On the block pillow, pin 
the pattern horizontally central, but with the top of the pattern at the 
top of a block. Sort the blocks so that the top of the pattern is at a 
comfortable place to start. As you work, push this line of blocks away 
from you to move the pattern up - as the top block falls off the pillow 
and you get a gap at the bottom, move the top block to the bottom to 
support the bobbins.


At this stage, getting used to using a flat pillow is half the problem - 
use it on a slope, either supported by a stand, tilting table or make a 
small bean bag to rest the top on. (This can be as wide as the pillow, 
or not quite, if you use the polystyrene bean bag beads it allows the 
pillow to settle and stay put without slipping or rocking, which happens 
if you end up at class with only a purse or glasses case to support - as 
my lot never seem to learn!). The slope of the pillow means that gravity 
assists the spangles in tensioning your work.


If you have a very long piece (or a corner) to work, you need to have at 
least two pieces of your pattern prepared before you start. Prick the 
pattern in one piece before you cut it into two. Look carefully at the 
pattern to see where will be a sensible place to cut, draw a pencil line 
across and either side of the actual pricking, use a waterproof pen to 
draw two fine short parallel lines at right angles to your pencil line - 
these will help you to line up the pieces when you are working. Protect 
the surface under the pricking, and cut along the pencil line using a 
sharp craft knife. When put back together, these two pieces will match 
up exactly.


You then need to ensure that the top and bottom of the pricking will 
match up. Using a surface that you can pin into, and will not matter if 
you damage it with the cutting, overlap the original start and finish of 
the pricking (not the centres where you made the first cut) matching the 
pattern repeat, allowing an overlap of at least four rows of pinholes 
Pin through the pinholes for a couple of lines either way to hold the 
pieces in place and push the pins right in. Draw a fine pencil line as 
before, across the centre of this section (but avoid cutting through 
pinholes!) and using a sharp craft knife cut across, cutting through 
both pieces of the pattern. On the side of the cut that leaves you with 
the trimmed piece on top, pin through a couple of pinholes of the single 
card (beyond the trimming) to hold this piece in place. Remove the pins 
from the trimmed piece on this side of the cut and remove the trimming 
(you should now have the two main pieces of pattern, cut through but 
held in place - there will still be a trimmed piece under one side). Use 
a waterproof pen to draw three short parallel lines (or two lines with a 
wider gap between than at the other join!) across the cut at right 
angles, either side of the pricking, again to act as a means to 
accurately line up your pricking in use. Remove the pins and discard the 
short trimmings. You should now have two pieces of pricking which will 
match up exactly whether top to bottom or bottom to top.


You can make the cut straight across or along a diagonal, depending on 
the space between the pinholes.


If you have a corner to divide, it is better not to have the slice along 
the 45deg corner line. Any mistakes in lining up will show up like a 
sore thumb! Prick two identical pieces including corners, allowing 
enough of the pattern to overlap and trim but still leaving the length 
of pattern you want between corners. You may need to cut a straight 
section of pattern to extend the sides between the corners, and if you 
are doing something larger (eg a tablecloth) you will need a second 
straight piece. Make sure that you will not lose any of the pattern 
repeat before you cut, and that all of the pieces will accurately match 
up to each other as they are swapped around in use.


Now you have your pricking, pin the first section to the pillow and 
start to work. As you near the end of this section, line up and pin the 
second piece of pricking to the pillow below it, and continue working 
across the join. W

[lace] lifting lace

[Wendy Davies]

Hi De Hi

I am about to make a  lace horseshoe and have found on making the last one
that the lace keeps lifting off the pillow when I am going around the bend of
the shoe.  Is this happening because I am not angleing my pins properly or is
it normal.

Wendy St Dogmales
_
Win New York holidays with Kellogg’s & Live Search

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[lace] roller or block

[Agnes Boddington]

Hi
I just started on an 80cm Bucks Point edging.
As the pattern was around 18cm long, I photocopied it several times, 
stuck 4 length together
(ensuring proper lining up) and then started the pattern about halfway 
down the top of the  topmost of the three

blocks.
The long length of the pattern was then pinned to all three blocks and 
the surplus draped around the bottom
block and underneath in the hope that I can just slide the blocks up as 
necessary with the pattern
attached, without having to lift and move the lace. As the length grows, 
and the top block needs

removing, I aim to pin the finished lace over and underneath the top block.
My lace teacher thinks I am mad, but I hope to prove her wrong and will 
keep you all informed
(may be a while as I am also still woring on my Beds butterfly). There 
is always the option of getting more blocks,

which I may well do when I go to Pudsey lace fair in October.
If it doesn't work, I may let you know too or eat humble pie instead.

Agnes Boddington - Elloughton UK, where summer just disappeared 
altogether and it
is starting to look like autumn, whilst my cabbages are eaten away by 
beautiful caterpillars.


www.sixpennybobbins.co.uk

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Re: [lace] roller or block

[Sue Babbs]

Are you aiming to have a finished length of 80cm exactly? If so have you 
allowed for shrinkage in your prickings? There will be some. Think around 
10%.


Being lazy(!) I prefer the option of having just 2 or 3 prickings and 
rotating their usage on the block pillow as needed. Sometimes putting fresh 
card underneath them if I have used the pinholes too much.


I also don't like the excess pricking resting against my body as I work - 
but each to their own.


I personally would not pin the lace underneath the blocks as I'm working, 
simply let it go off the top. I would be worried about it getting crushed 
underneath and the pins causing damage to the underneath of the block.


There are special little rollers you can get to wind it the length of lace 
around and pin the roller to the far end of the top block, with hat pins 
etc. Or you can let the lace sit in a small plastic bag pinned to that part 
of your pillow.


Sue
- Original Message - 
From: "Agnes Boddington" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "lace" 
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 8:36 AM
Subject: [lace] roller or block



Hi
I just started on an 80cm Bucks Point edging.
As the pattern was around 18cm long, I photocopied it several times, stuck 
4 length together



 As the length grows, and the top block needs
removing, I aim to pin the finished lace over and underneath the top 
block.


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Re: [lace] Finding Casalguidi in Italy

[Jeriames]

Barbara,
 
>From Effie Mitrofanis's book "Casalguidi Style Linen Embroidery", published  
in 1997 by Lacis, ISBN 0-916896-91-9, and published in 1996 by  Kangaroo Press:
 
She quotes the "Anchor Manual of Needlework" chapter titled "Various  Types 
of Embroidery", that says Casalguidi is a small place near Pistoia  which gives 
its name to this embroidery.  The map shows Pistoia as being  north-west of 
Florence, in Tuscany.  She says there is a booklet in  Casalguidi called "Il 
Ricamo di Casalguidi" made available after an exhibition  (would have been 
before 1996, based on the publication date of her book).
 
In Pistoia embroidery was taught at the Institute of the Abbandonate at  
Crocifissine and at the local high school.
--
For our needle lacers I'd like to give a description of Casalguidi  (which I 
learned at an Embroiderers' Guild class.  The traditionally  white embroidery 
(now often worked in color) is stitched on even weave  linen.  First, you work 
a 4-sided pulled embroidery stitch in the  area where you will add 
dimensional stitches on top of it.  Then comes the  embroidery, which is 
elaborate 
raised embroidery (somewhat like  stumpwork).  Finally, after making up, you 
add 
Italian style bobbles,  tassels, picots and button tassels.
 
The Mitrofanis book is in color and contains a history section and  one 
describing the work.  This is followed by materials required,  instructions on 
stitches and finishing techniques, and instructions for tassels,  picots, 
bobbles, 
cords.  Finally, there are projects: pouches, purses,  cushions, panels, 
household linens, etc.  There is a section on washing  with which I agree, but 
the 
water should be distilled.
 
If you make Italian-style needle laces and have not found good  instructions 
for bobbles, tassels, etc. this might be a book for you to own  or borrow.  
There is another by this same author: "Decorative Tassels and  Cords" that 
might 
be of interest -- the tassels and cords, however,  are presented as being 
decorative by themselves, and seem to be (may I say  heavier in appearance?) 
than 
the ones in the Casalguidi book.  
 
Jeri  Ames
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

 
In a message dated 8/19/2008 5:14:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Dear  Lacemakers,
Could someone help us find this place for Casalguidi embroidery  in Italy 
please?  We are currently in Florence. Thankyou, Barbara  Stokes, from 
Australia

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**It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.  
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv000547)

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Re: [lace] lifting lace

[Patty Dowden]

Hi De Hi

I am about to make a  lace horseshoe and have found on making the last one
that the lace keeps lifting off the pillow when I am going around the bend of
the shoe.  Is this happening because I am not angleing my pins properly or is
it normal.

Wendy St Dogmales


==

Hi Wendy,

The most probable cause of the horseshoe lifting off the pillow is 
that you are tensioning harder as you go around the curve.  The 
simplest fix is to move the pillow often so that the row you are 
working on has the passives coming straight at you.  If you can work 
a bookmark (straight down) to your satisfaction (regarding the 
tension), then moving the pillow will help a lot.


If the passives are bunching up on one side or the other,  work the 
row, tension the weaver first and set the edge pin and then tension 
each passive while maintaining tension on the weaver.  Don't start 
the next row until you are satisfied with the current row's tension 
on the weaver pair and the passives.  When the weaver changes 
direction around the pin, it is set, almost locked into 
position.  Changing it later is not really possible.


Tensioning the workers should be a pull to the left or right.  Trying 
to work at another angle just doesn't come out right.  Since every 
row around a curve is at a different angle, you need to keep the work 
moving so that your tension can produce the effect you want.


Patty

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Re: [lace] roller or block

[Sue Duckles]

Agnes, Maureen may think you're mad we know it!!  Now the thing  
is... if you get more blocks how are you going to attach them to the  
pillow??


Wonder what humble pie tastes like

Sue in EY
On 20 Aug 2008, at 14:36, Agnes Boddington wrote:


My lace teacher thinks I am mad, but I hope to prove her wrong and  
will keep you all informed
(may be a while as I am also still woring on my Beds butterfly).  
There is always the option of getting more blocks,

which I may well do when I go to Pudsey lace fair in October.
If it doesn't work, I may let you know too or eat humble pie instead.


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Re: [lace] roller or block

[Sue Duckles]

Think Agnes has one of those, Mike makes them but she was probably  
having a 'blonde' moment...


Sue in EY
On 20 Aug 2008, at 14:58, Sue Babbs wrote:



There are special little rollers you can get to wind it the length  
of lace around and pin the roller to the far end of the top block,  
with hat pins etc.


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RE: [lace] hitches & straws

[Karen]

Thank you Francis. I will look out for it eagerly.
Karen in Malta

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Francis Busschaert
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 9:30 AM
To: Karen; lace@arachne.com
Subject: [lace] hitches & straws

Be aware of straws !
for the USA people under us their should be reading now under the text 
"do not do this at home"!

SO be aware of straws!!
they can cause more dammage then doing any good to your work
mostly it is of fine plastic/plastoïde material
whit extra harding compounds to make it tough for drinking/sipping
now because of the toughness of the plastic it works quite offen like a 
knif on your threads
if you use very fine silks made of flos silk/ continuous silk you can 
have very very unwanted fibres cuttings and so you get
some fluffyness on the threads
beleve me a "catastrophe general total"

their is a special silk-knot i learn all people wanting to see it
i promise to put it as fast as possible on the internet to show to all 
of you
i do not have a camera so it will be still fotos

all whom i learned it say WOW  is it that simple
yes it is and it is a world of difference
some are more underneath their table looking for the unwounded bobins
and rewinding them then making lace


i have the very unwanted feeling that to many people do not know the 
basic of lace
they can make binche
vallencienne and most other extremly time consuming laces but the real basic
before you start is mostly lacking..

in most of their minds they are here (in the payed classes) to do lace
not to wound bobbins..
mostly they do it at home between their patatoe peeling and the 
carots-scrapping
that gives an idea of how important they think it is
WRONG WRONG WRONG!!!
it is of the uttermost importancel!!!
that is were the "catastrophe general total" begins
and not the sice of the bobin
the color of the bobin
the extra head or what ever
nope
no no

i promise to put the fotos on a website this weekend
it will be in english, well you knwo my english (Belgo-beneluxenglish)
but you will nderstand

kind regards

francis




Karen schreef:
> That's what I used the straws for but it didn't work for me! Perhaps the
> bobbins we use here have  necks that are too thick for straws, but
yesterday
> I came across two straws which are much thicker than usual, so I washed
them
> and kept them to try again!
> Karen
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
> Elizabeth Ligeti
> Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 3:57 AM
> To: Arachne
> Subject: [lace] hitches & straws
>
> That is an excellent video of how to do hitches.
>
> I have used the split straws when using a metallic thread, - when the
thread
> had a mind of it's own!  It worked very well.
>
> Regards from Liz in cold, grey, Melbourne
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> --
> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
> It has removed 241 spam emails to date.
> Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
> Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
>
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>
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> unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.6/1621 - Release Date: 19/08/2008
18:53
>
>
>
>   

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Re: [lace] roller or block

[Agnes Boddington]

According to Wikipedia, below the description of (h)umble pie.

Does not sound very attractive, but then I did say ...

The expression derives from *umble pie*, which was a pie 
 filled with liver 
, heart 
 and other offal 
, especially of cow 
 but often deer 
 or boar 
. *Umble* evolved from *numble*, 
(after the French  
*nomble*) meaning 'deer's innards'. 
 Umbles 
were considered inferior food, in medieval 
 times the pie was often served 
to lower-class people.


Although "umbles" and the modern word "humble" are etymologically 
unrelated, each word has appeared both with and without the initial "h" 
after the Middle Ages until the 19th century. Since the sound "h" is 
often dropped in many dialects, and "umble" was a humble meal anyway, 
the phrase was rebracketed  
as "humble pie". While "umble" is now gone from the language, the phrase 
remains, carrying the fossilized word as an idiom 
.


I'll get the lace edging done in my way, whichever one that's going to 
be, and make the pin cushion to fit the edging, rather than the other 
way around.

Jane Partridge has been very helpful with suggestions, as have some others.

Agnes Boddington


   Sue Duckles wrote:

Agnes, Maureen may think you're mad we know it!!  Now the thing  
is... if you get more blocks how are you going to attach them to the  
pillow??


Wonder what humble pie tastes like




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Re: [lace] roller or block

[Agnes Boddington]

No,not a blond one, just a painful one, which is affecting my brain: I 
fell over the dog last night, and did something to my right knee, and my 
left big toe.

After that one cannot think straight.
I have not one, but two lace rollers, and more if I want to raid the stock.

B.t.w. the dog is fine, she was just shken and thought she had done 
something wrong.

Agnes Boddington

Sue Duckles wrote:

Think Agnes has one of those, Mike makes them but she was 
probably  having a 'blonde' moment...


Sue in EY
On 20 Aug 2008, at 14:58, Sue Babbs wrote:




There are special little rollers you can get to wind it the length  
of lace around and pin the roller to the far end of the top block,  
with hat pins etc.






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Re: [lace] lifting lace

[Sue Babbs]

Have you tried pushing your edge pins right down into the pillow? That can 
help


Sue 


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RE: [lace] Finding Casalguidi in Italy

[Annette Meldrum]

Hi Barbara,
Catch a train from Florence to Pistoia. You can get a bus from the square in
Pistoia. Take care as there are two bus stops with Casalguidi listed. You
need the one in the centre of the square, not the one near the shops and the
news stand. We caught the wrong bus and did a lovely drive up into the
mountains, then the bus turned around and took us back to the square and
then to Casalguidi. All very nice scenery but we wasted a morning.

Best to ring the Library before you go as the Librarian who looks after the
museum, only works part-time. Alternatively, ring the council as the Museum
and Library are in the Council building in the main square. They speak some
English. Lots of shops sell the embroidery. They close early afternoon so
try to arrive early in the day. There is also embroidery in the church -
alter cloth etc.

Sorry haven't got time to try to look up numbers, I am off to Sydney now for
2 days.
Hope it is successful for you.

Regards
Annette in freezing Wollongong, Australia

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Subject: Re: [lace] Finding Casalguidi in Italy

Barbara,
 
Casalguidi is a small place near Pistoia  which gives 
its name to this embroidery.  The map shows Pistoia as being  north-west of 
Florence, in Tuscany.  

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[lace] England/France lace trade - was [KFHS] Textiles

[Brenda Paternoster]

Hello everyone

This message, and my reply, has just been posted to the Kent Family 
History Society discussion group. Does anyone   know anything about the 
19th century England/France lace trade?


Brenda

Begin forwarded message:


From: Brenda Paternoster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: 20 August 2008 22:26:06 BST
To: "Jan Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [KFHS] Textiles

Hello Jan

I'm not the best of lace historians, but I'll forward your message to 
'Arachne' an internet lace discussion group, it's very likely to get a 
few good replies.


Do you know if you are asking about machine made lace or handmade lace?
Can you be more specific than just 19th century?
Where in France might you be interested in?  The traditional 
lacemaking areas of France include Bayeux, Calais, Lille, Chantilly, 
Dieppe, le Puy, Valenciennes


and there's your Kent link - Valenciennes is twinned with Chatham!

Brenda

On 20 Aug 2008, at 18:59, Jan Reed wrote:


My apologies as this is not Kent based but I wondered if anyone had
knowledge of where I might get information of the movement of workers 
in the
cotton/lace trade between uk and France in 19th Century?  I vaguely 
remember
something about Courtaulds records but cannot remember how to access. 
 Many

thanks



Brenda in Allhallows, Kent
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html




Brenda in Allhallows, Kent
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html

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Re: [lace] roller or block

[Sue Duckles]

The 'h' is always dropped in 'H'ull!!  Not that far from where we live!!

So, maybe it is 'umble !!

Sue in EY
On 20 Aug 2008, at 19:34, Agnes Boddington wrote:
Since the sound "h" is often dropped in many dialects, and "umble"  
was a humble meal anyway, the phrase was rebracketed


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Re: [lace] roller or block

[Sue Duckles]

Hope the knee and toe are ok.  Pleased Megan is ok, but I bet she's  
really shaken up!  BTW, for those of you who don't know Agnes, I've  
uploaded a photo of Megan on arachne webshots (Sue D's lace).


Just for the 'awww, poor pups' factor you understand!


Sue in EY
On 20 Aug 2008, at 19:36, Agnes Boddington wrote:
 I fell over the dog last night, and did something to my right knee,  
and my left big toe.


B.t.w. the dog is fine, she was just shken and thought she had done  
something wrong.


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[lace] On eBay: Heather Toomer "Lace"

[Patty Dowden]

Lace, a Guide to Identification of Old Lace Types and Techniques
eBay number 180279434200
[]


Buy it Now $31.08 


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Re: [lace] Bean bag support for pillow...

[Tregellas Family]

Hi all,


Now, what is the ideal shape for such a beanbag?  I have made a 
doll-sized beanbag 'chair' (circular shape), but my circular straw 
pillow still rocks when I rest it on this beanbag.  If I made the 
pattern larger, then the beanbag could be too bulky to manage on a 
tabletop.


Would an 'orange segment' shape beanbag work better, under a circular 
pillow?


What shape would you recommend?
   My lace teacher has small 4-5 inch square bean bags and you put one 
at 11 oclock and one at 1 oclock which supports the pillow (no matter 
what shape or weight) very well.  I used to use one of those blow up 
pillows that you put around your neck when you snooze on the 
plane/bus/train  -  the suede ones are best, no slippage.  Only trouble 
was I kept sticking pins in it and whoosh, away it would go, flat on the 
table.


Cheers,
Shirley T.  -  in cold Adelaide, South Australia, where its actually 
raining and not just showering for 10 mins on the odd day.


[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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