[lace] Threads for sewing christening gown

2013-01-26 Thread lacelady
Interesting question, and my immediate response is ...Possibly not.

In all my sewing experience, I haven't found any machine thread made of linen.  
It's the nature of the textile that makes it unsuitable for machines.  Linen 
thread tends to be a bit irregular in thickness, and has slubs.  It is also not 
slippery.  Thread for machines needs to be very even and smooth, and slide 
easily through all the gears.  A sewing machine makes the thread rub against 
metal about 20 times before it is sewn in the fabric.  Slubs would jam up the 
works.

In history, machine laces didn't become a major commercial venture until cotton 
thread became widely available (after the development of the cotton gin).  The 
linen thread just would not slide easily through all the slots and gears.  
Cotton thread did.

In hand sewing, a person can deal with the thick and thin parts of the thread.

I guess a spool of lace linen thread could be tried in a machine to see how it 
responds.  I've never had the reason to try it.  And I have no linen garments 
to look at to see what the commercial industry uses.  One of the better quality 
thinner linen threads might be strong enough to not break while making one 
small garment.

Has anyone on the Lace List sewn a linen garment?  Please speak up. What thread 
did you use?

Alice in Oregon --- where it's changed from cold and icy to cool and wet.


- Original Message -
From: Dona Bushong bdonama...@gmail.com
 With renewed energy I've managed to make good
progress on yardage that I'm making to go on the bottom of a christening
gown.  I've decided to go ahead and sew the
gown and begin applying the lace that I have made. ..
My question deals more with the thread for sewing the gown than with the
lace. Both the lace and fabric are linen..I've looked online for 
linen sewing threads but most of
my searches have come up with threads for hand sewing.  Will I be able to
find linen thread for machine sewing?  
Dona in Havre de Grace, MD

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RE: [lace] Threads for sewing christening gown

2013-01-26 Thread Maureen
H Donna

I would use the same thread that I have used to make the lace to  sew the 
finished lace to the material. As your material is linen and your lace is 
made from linen then there would be no compromise.Plus it would blend in 
beautifully.

Maureen
E Yorks UK  Where the snow fall from last night is melting under the sunny 
morning.

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[lace] Handicaps

2013-01-26 Thread Alex Stillwell
Hi

Re: It is always amazing what handicapped (I hope that is
a
politically-correct term) people can do and I am wondering if other
Arachnians
have seen or worked with lacemakers with one arm or, as in the case of
Ilske's
aunt, an arm that is paralyzed.

I have taught a very slow learner who was in my class with a carer.  The carer
also learnt so she could help her.  She was always happy and enthusiastic and
made yards of the basic torchon fan pattern to put on gifts that she was very
proud of.  She gained a lot from the sessions being in a normal class and
achieving so much.

At one time we had a thalidamide victim with one distorted hand and arm coming
to our lace group. She uses continental style bobbins and glass headed pins
and uses her teeth to pull them out.

I have taught others with various problems.  Although not really in the
category the original post was about arthritis makes lacemaking difficult.  I
think of all the options regarding sitting position, the various ways of
handling bobbins, pinhead size, thickness of thread and describe the options.
I also let students try the different equipment.  It is only the person with
the problem that can decide which of the options is best for her. Also listen
to what aspect of making lace is difficult for her and try to think of an
answer, it may not work, only she can be the judge,  but she will appreciate
that you are thinking of her.  Learning problems can go hand in hand with
physical ones, but don't assume it.  The majority of people with physical
problems are capable of using their mental capacity to mitigate them.

Best wishes to all those having to cope with physical problems, I have
arthritis and it is frustrating at times.

Alex

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Re: [lace] Threads for sewing christening gown

2013-01-26 Thread Brenda Paternoster
Another major reason why linen threads are not suitable for machine sewing is 
that they are nearly all S spun.  That makes them very suitable for BL because 
most BL has more twists than crosses in its construction and the twist action 
will tend to tighten a Z spun thread but loosen an S spun thread.  However, 
sewing machines are all made to take Z spun thread.  Even if you do find a nice 
smooth linen it will tend to come unspun with the action of the sewing machine 
and the machine will definitely not be happy.

Really you only have two choices - use cotton (not polyester!) in your sewing 
machine or use the linen thread you used to make the lace and attach it by 
hand.  Having spent a lot of time making the lace I personally would choose to 
attach it by hand even if the dress itself is linen fabric sewn together with 
cotton.

Brenda

On 26 Jan 2013, at 08:14, lacel...@frontier.com wrote:

 In all my sewing experience, I haven't found any machine thread made of 
 linen.  It's the nature of the textile that makes it unsuitable for machines. 
 Linen thread tends to be a bit irregular in thickness, and has slubs.  It is 
 also not slippery.  Thread for machines needs to be very even and smooth, and 
 slide easily through all the gears.  A sewing machine makes the thread rub 
 against metal about 20 times before it is sewn in the fabric.  Slubs would 
 jam up the works.
 
 In history, machine laces didn't become a major commercial venture until 
 cotton thread became widely available (after the development of the cotton 
 gin).  The linen thread just would not slide easily through all the slots and 
 gears.  Cotton thread did.

Brenda in Allhallows
www.brendapaternoster.co.uk

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Re: [lace] Threads for sewing christening gown

2013-01-26 Thread Dona Bushong
The one site I found which sold linen sewing thread did say that it has to
be waxed with bees wax before using.  Probably for this very reason- the
coming unspun.  Will that bit of wax become a problem later on?  Will it
eventually collect dirt and discolor?
I do think my best option is to sew the garment itself with a cotton thread
and hand sew the lace onto the garment with linen.
Next question - do I wash my lace before attaching it to the garment?  I
will, of course, wash the fabric first.
Thank you all for your thoughts.
Dona


Another major reason why linen threads are not suitable for machine sewing
 is that they are nearly all S spun.  That makes them very suitable for BL
 because most BL has more twists than crosses in its construction and the
 twist action will tend to tighten a Z spun thread but loosen an S spun
 thread.  However, sewing machines are all made to take Z spun thread.  Even
 if you do find a nice smooth linen it will tend to come unspun with the
 action of the sewing machine and the machine will definitely not be happy.



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[lace] Re: Threads for sewing christening gown

2013-01-26 Thread Susan Reishus
thread for sewing Christening gown (preferring the thread is linen, as) both
the lace and fabric are linen.

In French Heirloom, it is typical to use 80
thread and an 8/60 needle, which is too fine for linen thread.  You don't have
to use French Heirloom techniques and if not, then can use 50 (or finer)
thread.  I have never seen linen thread used because of it's inconsistency and
tendency to break, and of course sewing is done at higher speeds and with
tension.  It really isn't flexible enough to go round the bobbin hook and
catch at the eye of the needle in tight and repetitive movement that happen
with machine sewing (machine timing can also factor in).  

You can find 50wt.
(or finer) linen thread, so then you could consider setting your sewing
machine at a slow speed (if you have that option, or with foot control), and
it becomes imperative that you use a Topstitch needle (titanium is likely
best) in a size that can accommodate the thread, which more likely would be an
11-12 needle (perhaps a 10).

Some of it depends upon the weight of your
actual linen (tissue linen or is it heavier?) and the 'heft' of your lace
(perhaps finer or heavier than 120wt. for instance, plus your lace design
saturation, etc.).  In the main, you want a project that is pure(ly linen),
but keep in mind that you also want something that will stay together long
term, so I would strongly consider a fine cotton, or even silk thread (which
is quite strong).

Generally French Heirloom techniques are done on lawn or
batiste, and many linens tend to run heavier (even in handkerchief/tissue
linen), plus with a heavier lace that linen thread provides you will have to
test it out thoroughly for hand and drape.  My guess is that it would be ideal
to sew it in a standard way with perhaps a bit of entredeaux, etc. as
technique here and there, not as a solely French technique.  I would also
consider finding cotton organdy if you need any interfacings.  It is the
standard way things were done, not long ago, and more authentic, or perhaps
tissue linen would suffice.

One has to think not only about construction, but
also outcome with all pieces merged, and endurance for generations to come, of
which cotton or silk thread would well serve.

HTH,
Susan Reishus 

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[lace] linen christening gown

2013-01-26 Thread hottleco
Hello All!  Please forgive if I am asking the wrong question here--but is it 
possible to hand sew the garment with linen thread?  My curiosity stems from a 
(vintage) child's silk dress that I own.  It is completely hand-sewn.  When I 
checked Hedgehog Handworks the finest linen thread offered is 100/3.  Wm. 
Booth, Draper offers 90/2  it says on his site that it is suitable for sewing 
handkerchief weight linen.  Usual disclaimers, no relationship to the sellers, 
satisfied customer etc.  There are books, online resources  (occasionally) 
classes available if you decide to work in hand.  Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Palm 
Beach Gardens, FL, USA


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RE: [lace] Re: Threads for sewing christening gown

2013-01-26 Thread Maureen
Must admit I had only got as far as thinking about attaching the lace to the
garment and not sewing the garment together to start with.   So ignore my
comments.

Maureen
E Yorks UK

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Re: [lace] knitted lace

2013-01-26 Thread Norma Harris
Thanks for the site Lorelei, the shawl is absolutely gorgeous.  Plans for an
Estonian lace scarf are in the making although I may change my mind and go
for the gold  (shawl that is).
Norma

http://normasneedlez.blogspot.com
http://sistersstitching.blogspot.com
NATA #847
Your worth consists in what you are and not in what you have.


--- On Tue, 22/1/13, Lorelei Halley lhal...@bytemeusa.com wrote:

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[lace] Handicaps

2013-01-26 Thread Jean Nathan
We had a lady in our lace group who had cerebral palsy. She was in an 
electric-powered wheelchair, which she could manipulate with a lever 
operated by her right hand, which was the only part of her body she could 
use. She couldn't speak and had a conversation book which she held down with 
her left hand and turned the pages and pointed to what she wanted to say 
with her right. She was very intelligent and did all sorts of crafts which 
could be done with one hand and wrote her life story using a computer. She 
lived in an independent living bungalow with half a dozen other disabled 
people, where they did as much for themselves as they could, but had a 
live-in carer. She loved her cat.


She made various edgings and mats in lace. The bobbins had to be wound for 
her and the pricking put on the pillow. She couldn't hold the bobbins, but 
would move them by pushing them where she wanted them, including making 
twists and crosses, with her right hand and a helper put the pins in. She 
came to the group every week until she died in her sleep in her eighties.


Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK 


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[lace] What thread and/or pattern would you use?

2013-01-26 Thread Susie Rose
Hello to One and All!

Today my DD Leah turns 16.  I want to start making the
lace for her wedding gown.  I've looked at so many patterns that I can't think
anymore. I've been checking patterns for about 6 months. Does anyone have any
suggestions as to patterns to use and the thread.  I've done all kinds of lace
but torchon is my favorite.

 
Hugs,
 
Susie Rose   

For a 15% off coupon for
the month of January use coupon code 2013JAN15 at my Etsy store: 
http://www.susierosedesigns.etsy.com

Buy quality foods in bulk at a lower
price. http://www.zayconfoods.com/refer/zf145544 

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Re: [lace] What thread and/or pattern would you use?

2013-01-26 Thread Sue Babbs
I think the design used in the latest IOLI is beautiful - have a look at 
that


Sue

sueba...@comcast.net
-Original Message- 
From: Susie Rose

Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2013 3:08 PM

Today my DD Leah turns 16.  I want to start making the
lace for her wedding gown.  http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ 


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Re: [lace] What thread and/or pattern would you use?

2013-01-26 Thread Clay Blackwell
There is a lovely Tønder pattern called Little Hearts that begs to be 
used for a wedding.  There is a similar pattern in Bucks as well.  I 
know that Little Hearts is in the Skovgaard book which has long been 
out of print, and Rebecca is a similar design which is found in Stott 
and Cook's 100 Traditional Bobbin Lace Patterns.


Clay


On 1/26/2013 4:08 PM, Susie Rose wrote:

Hello to One and All!

Today my DD Leah turns 16.  I want to start making the
lace for her wedding gown.  I've looked at so many patterns that I can't think
anymore. I've been checking patterns for about 6 months. Does anyone have any
suggestions as to patterns to use and the thread.  I've done all kinds of lace
but torchon is my favorite.




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[lace] What thread and/or pattern would you use?

2013-01-26 Thread Jane Partridge
Whereas it will take a while to make the lace, and I can appreciate why 
you are wanting to start now, unless she has an arranged marriage 
planned and very definite, unlikely to change, ideas about the type of 
dress she would like which she has already told you about, I would hold 
fire.


I was hoping that one of my daughters (now 25 and 28 respectively) would 
wear the veil I made for my City  Guilds and the tatted headdress my 
mother made for me - but neither has married and it may be years before 
they are in a (financial) position to marry. I had very firm ideas as to 
the style of dress I was going to make and wear for my wedding - I 
couldn't find the right fabric and changed my ideas to an overblouse and 
long skirt (which could be, and was, worn again several times) instead - 
this, if my mother had been a bobbin lacemaker (she was a tatter, and 
later in life took up needlelace) and had spent years making lace for 
me, would have been a potential disaster.


To answer your original question, the thread you would use would depend 
on the fabric the dress is made from, both in fibre and colour. You may 
choose ivory for the lace now, she may choose oyster for the dress in 
the future, the two may not suit each other.


Lace is in fashion for wedding dresses now, but in a year or so it may 
not be, and fashion tends to go in 20 year cycles. There are lace items 
that can be made - garters, flowers, jewellery, tiaras, horseshoes, etc 
- that can be made once the couple have chosen their wedding colour 
scheme and may be treasured more than lace on the dress itself.


The dress has to be your daughter's dream dress, not the dress that you 
would wish her to have - we all want our little girls to look the 
perfect princess, but if you concentrate on making that day, if it 
happens, her day rather than everybody else's, and support her in her 
choices without making them for her, she will have truly flown the nest 
but will come back to you when she needs advice in the future.


In message 1359234485.25305.yahoomail...@web141005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com, 
Susie Rose susierose_89...@yahoo.com writes

Hello to One and All!

Today my DD Leah turns 16.? I want to start making the
lace for her wedding gown.?


--
Jane Partridge

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Re: [lace] What thread and/or pattern would you use?

2013-01-26 Thread Valerie Stewart
Susie I am having the same problem picking something for my Grandaughter.
I
will be watching this thread closely
 


From: Susie Rose susierose_89...@yahoo.com
To: Arachne lace@arachne.com
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2013 3:08 PM
Subject: [lace] What thread  and/or
pattern would you use?
  
Hello to One and All!

Today my DD Leah turns 16.  I
want to start making the
lace for her wedding gown.  I've looked at so many
patterns that I can't think
anymore. I've been checking patterns for about 6
months. Does anyone have any
suggestions as to patterns to use and the
thread.  I've done all kinds of lace
but torchon is my favorite.

 
Hugs,
 
Susie Rose   

For a 15% off coupon for
the month of January use coupon code
2013JAN15 at my Etsy store: 
http://www.susierosedesigns.etsy.com

Buy quality
foods in bulk at a lower
price. http://www.zayconfoods.com/refer/zf145544 

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[lace] Re: Linen Christening Gown

2013-01-26 Thread Susan Reishus
possible to hand sew the garment with linen thread (100/3)? Wm. Booth, Draper
offers 90/2  says it is suitable for sewing handkerchief weight linen. 
Susan Hottie


Hand sewing has so many variables.  Sewing something together,
or using it for drawn work, couched gimp, decorative stitches to anchor lace
headers or insertion, ad infinitum.  Additionally, I find that 'men' who sell
things, whether textiles, thread, or sewing machines, may SAY something is
possible and be told it via a supplier and/or training, but within practical
application, it can be a stretch or not even applicable.  Most hand sewing is
about using something invisibly to merge things together, vs. embroidery for
embellishment.  The 33 weight sounds quite thick---45 might be more
tolerable as many standard sewing threads are nowadays in the 50 range.  And
then some threads are given a wt. that varies considerably, also.  As I
mentioned, handkerchief linen typically requires 80 (and often 90) thread.

I
hope you let us know how it works out, as it is always nice to get more info.
Best,
Susan Reishus

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Re: [lace] What thread and/or pattern would you use?

2013-01-26 Thread Carol
 Hi Susie, 
I too wanted to make lace for my youngest daughter's future wedding but neither 
she nor I had any idea what kind of dress she would want and so I began yardage 
for a wedding veil when she was still in high school.  I chose a torchon 
pattern about 2  wide and used Metler 60/2 cotton thread. Over the next 5 
years I made 8 yards. I used all but 13 when I made the veil.  I also made her 
garter and lace for a hanky.  Finally I made a square mat that was open in the 
center for the bridal pillow and after the wedding I took the mat off the 
pillow and put a picture of the bride and groom in the center, framed it and 
gave to the bride and groom. 
There are lots of ways to use lace in a wedding besides on the dress.
It is a very rewarding endeavor and I'm sure you will enjoy making lots of lace 
for your daughter. 
Best Regards,
Carol Melton
Valley of the Sun
Phoenix, AZ. USA
where it has been raining off and on for 2 days. We have had almost 1 and 1/4. 
 It is supposed to be wet until Tuesday and then clear off. If this keeps up 
the desert will have a profusion of wild flowers in the spring!!!

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