"thread for sewing Christening gown (preferring the thread is linen, as) both the lace and fabric are linen."
In French Heirloom, it is typical to use 80 thread and an 8/60 needle, which is too fine for linen thread. You don't have to use French Heirloom techniques and if not, then can use 50 (or finer) thread. I have never seen linen thread used because of it's inconsistency and tendency to break, and of course sewing is done at higher speeds and with tension. It really isn't flexible enough to go round the bobbin hook and catch at the eye of the needle in tight and repetitive movement that happen with machine sewing (machine timing can also factor in). You can find 50wt. (or finer) linen thread, so then you could consider setting your sewing machine at a slow speed (if you have that option, or with foot control), and it becomes imperative that you use a Topstitch needle (titanium is likely best) in a size that can accommodate the thread, which more likely would be an 11-12 needle (perhaps a 10). Some of it depends upon the weight of your actual linen (tissue linen or is it heavier?) and the 'heft' of your lace (perhaps finer or heavier than 120wt. for instance, plus your lace design saturation, etc.). In the main, you want a project that is pure(ly linen), but keep in mind that you also want something that will stay together long term, so I would strongly consider a fine cotton, or even silk thread (which is quite strong). Generally French Heirloom techniques are done on lawn or batiste, and many linens tend to run heavier (even in handkerchief/tissue linen), plus with a heavier lace that linen thread provides you will have to test it out thoroughly for hand and drape. My guess is that it would be ideal to sew it in a standard way with perhaps a bit of entredeaux, etc. as technique here and there, not as a solely French technique. I would also consider finding cotton organdy if you need any interfacings. It is the standard way things were done, not long ago, and more authentic, or perhaps tissue linen would suffice. One has to think not only about construction, but also outcome with all pieces merged, and endurance for generations to come, of which cotton or silk thread would well serve. HTH, Susan Reishus - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
