[lace] Beeswax?
Hello List Friends, I just saw a beeswax holder and needlecase auction on Ebay. I'm not familiar with the use of Beeswax in bobbin lace. Can someone enlighten me? Lisa - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Beeswax?
Beeswax was (is) traditionally used as a lubricant on the pricker to keep the needle used for pricking from getting stuck in the pricking card. With the increased use of the blue film over the pricking card, and also a tendency among lacemakers to allow the sandwich of a pricking copy plus a card-stock under it with blue film over it to suffice for the pricking card, the need for beeswax has been reduced. Hope this helps... Clay On 4/8/2010 7:23 PM, Lisa Morey wrote: Hello List Friends, I just saw a beeswax holder and needlecase auction on Ebay. I'm not familiar with the use of Beeswax in bobbin lace. Can someone enlighten me? Lisa - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] beeswax
On 5/11/07 7:53 AM, Jenny De Angelis wrote: You can also use bees wax when embroidering, run the thread over the bees wax and it keeps all the little fluffy hairs of the thread smoothed down and helps to strengthen the thread while sewing. I sometimes wax thread when sewing seams or hemming, particularly when I'm using thread not intended for sewing. I often, for example, use ravelings from the fabric for stitches that must continue to match after the garment has been washed. When embroidering, I use wax only to stiffen and sharpen the end of the thread when it refuses to go into the needle. Waxing the thread changes its character, and then it washes out, which would make embroidery with waxed threads a bit less predictable than I like. -- Joy Beeson http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/ http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange http://www.timeswrsw.com/craig/cam/ (local weather) west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A. where strawberries are in bloom. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] beeswax etc.
Robin in California wrote: I know the purpose of this thread was more or less about uses for beeswax, but I wanted to point out that some people put a piece of wax paper (common in the US, anyway, for wrapping sandwiches, etc., to keep them fresh) between the pattern and the pricking card. Then every pinhole lightly waxes the needle as it goes through. No need to stop and stab a beeswax lump. Robin, is this Cut-Rite wax paper you are talking about? I still have 4 brand new roles, and a partly used one. I used to buy this when I lived in California, and then my American friend here would get me the odd roll from an Air Force base shop. I use it sparingly, and never thought of using it the way you describe, but will put some with my lace things now! Agnes Boddington - finally rainy in Elloughton, East Yorkshire, UK and will get my bedding plants in today. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] beeswax etc.
Instead of the laborious process of putting the lace pricker in to the pot of beeswax, if you rub the paper pattern (which is on top of the parchment) with beeswax before pricking, it does an equally good job for far less work, so more energy for lacemaking! Edith North Nottinghamshire - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] beeswax
There was a farmers' market at work today, and one of the traders was selling honey and other bee products. I saw a block of beeswax that seemed quite inexpensive (GBP 1.25 for a block about 1cm x 2cm x 8cm ish!) I know that beeswax has something to do with cleaning pins, so I bought some. But can anyone tell me how I should use it, and how it doesn't spoil the lace! Viv Viv, I use my block of beeswas when I am pricking patterns. Now and then I prod the pricking needle into the wax and it makes the needle pierce the pricking card more easily. You can also use bees wax when embroidering, run the thread over the bees wax and it keeps all the little fluffy hairs of the thread smoothed down and helps to strengthen the thread while sewing. I would not use it for lace threads in this way. To clean pins the best thing is Pumice Powder. If you can get a little bit of fleece, enough to fill a small pin cushion, and put a teaspoonful or so of the pumice powder into the centre of that and enfold it with the fleece, you make a pin cushion which you can use now and then, and only now and then, to sharpen and clean your lace pins. If you were to use the pin cushion all the time you will wear the pins down as each time they go in and out of the pumice pin cushion a little bit of the metal is rubbed away. You used to be able to buy pumice powder form Tim Parker in the UK, but not sure if he still sells it in little bags of so many grammes. Tim's website including his catalogue is at http://www.cyberlink.co.uk/timparker/ Regards Jenny DeAngelis. Spain. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] beeswax
Jenny De Angelis wrote To clean pins the best thing is Pumice Powder. A quick word of caution - some of the lace pins now being sold by some of the suppliers, are quote from one supplier's website : 'These lacemaking pins are nickel plated steel which is stainless. Under no circumstances should these be used with an emery powder pincusion. Malvary in Ottawa (the Nation's Capital), Canada - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] beeswax
In a message dated 5/10/2007 8:30:42 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: to which I will add the honey people at the farm market told me that beeswax is supposed to be superlative for preparing a baking sheet for cookie dough! I haven't tried that though. They had huge cake-size (as in birthday cake) slabs of beeswax for sale. The scent was heavenly, but at that size too much and too costly for using for little dibs for lacemaking. I remember buying big blocks of beeswax from a little farm that kept bees for about 5$ each, maybe fifteen years ago. Now that place is gone. Not only that, but the bees too, apparently, around the world, are disappearing, so the price of beeswax is likely to skyrocket (though that's only peripheral to the real problem, whatever is causing the decline)... See, e.g., _http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/gate/archive/2007/05/09/notes050907. DTLnl=fix_ (http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/gate/archive/2007/05/09/notes050907.DTLnl=fix) Well, I digress, but before I go back to minding my own beeswax, I'll just say it's probably best to buy your beeswax now! Someday it will probably be worth its weight in gold! Ricki in Utah (the Beehive State) ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] beeswax
Dear Friends There was a farmers' market at work today, and one of the traders was selling honey and other bee products. I saw a block of beeswax that seemed quite inexpensive (GBP 1.25 for a block about 1cm x 2cm x 8cm ish!) I know that beeswax has something to do with cleaning pins, so I bought some. But can anyone tell me how I should use it, and how it doesn't spoil the lace! Thanks Viv in worcestershire UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] beeswax
Well, as the widow of a beekeeperaltho' beeswax is great for rubbing on threads to strengthen them for buttons and beading...it was DH's advice that,on lace thread,the wax would become a dirt catcher. That is the only way it would hurt the threads. Sometimes I have put pins and needles into wax to make them work more smoothly.great for sticky wooden drawer slides, too. Hope this helps, and this is only MHO! Smiles, BarbE Texas USA - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: lace@arachne.com ; lace@arachne.com Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:15 AM Subject: [lace] beeswax Dear Friends There was a farmers' market at work today, and one of the traders was selling honey and other bee products. I saw a block of beeswax that seemed quite inexpensive (GBP 1.25 for a block about 1cm x 2cm x 8cm ish!) I know that beeswax has something to do with cleaning pins, so I bought some. But can anyone tell me how I should use it, and how it doesn't spoil the lace! Thanks Viv in worcestershire UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07 PM - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] beeswax
Beeswax is great if you pre-do your pricking - stick your pricker into the beeswax and then prick 3 or 4 holes, and repeat. You will find it is much easier to do the pricking. If you don't pre-do your pricking, you might want to consider taking the additional step as it makes your lacemaking go easier saving wear and tear on your finger and it also means that you can clean up any irregularities in your pricking without the lace on the pillow cluttering up your field of view. (I know before you all squeek - there are some laces when it is better to prick as you go!!) Malvary in Ottawa, Canada - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] beeswax
Hi Viv and everyone I have tried the pricking method mentioned by Malvary and it is good, and what Barb says here Sometimes I have put pins and needles into wax to make them work more smoothly.great for sticky wooden drawer slides, too. to which I will add the honey people at the farm market told me that beeswax is supposed to be superlative for preparing a baking sheet for cookie dough! I haven't tried that though. They had huge cake-size (as in birthday cake) slabs of beeswax for sale. The scent was heavenly, but at that size too much and too costly for using for little dibs for lacemaking. I still have some beeswax for lace, a wee amount given as a favour at a lace event. Someone had used plastic bottle tops for the containers, poured melted beeswax into them, wrapped pretty cord around the outsides, and a loop to pin it to ... the pricking surface I presume. I didn't use a pillow for preparing a pricking; I kept a piece of styrofoam and pinned the beeswax thingie to that. Now with the sort of laces I do, many my own designs, I don't bother with pricking holes ahead of time, but the beeswax bit is fun to find in the jumble of lace tools. -- Bev in Sooke BC (on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] beeswax
From: Malvary J Cole [EMAIL PROTECTED] Beeswax is great if you pre-do your pricking - stick your pricker into the beeswax and then prick 3 or 4 holes, and repeat. You will find it is much easier to do the pricking. I know the purpose of this thread was more or less about uses for beeswax, but I wanted to point out that some people put a piece of wax paper (common in the US, anyway, for wrapping sandwiches, etc., to keep them fresh) between the pattern and the pricking card. Then every pinhole lightly waxes the needle as it goes through. No need to stop and stab a beeswax lump. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA (formerly Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Spin direction - was [lace] beeswax, grain etc.
On 13 Aug 2005, at 03:45, susan wrote: i also read some where ramie has to be done this way, or maybe it was linen. it has to be spun in z twists. maybe it is the s twist, i'm not sure, but it can only be spun in that direction, and of course plied in the same direction as well. Linen is nearly always Z-spun and S-plied. I have a potocopied page from about 20 years ago when I was doing the City Guilds Lacemaking exam. It's an excerpt from Basic Habits of Textile Fibers by Louisa Bellinger, then Curator-Analyst at teh Textile Museum Washington DC, c1960 When linen fibers have been wet they rotate as they dry, in the direction of the center part of the letter S --- As we wash linens today, how many of us realize that if the yarns are S-spun, they will tighten as they dry; but if they are Z-spun they will unwind? A linen sample, no matter how tight it is stretched to begin with, will loosen in a damp climate, if it is Z-spun. From this, and my own observations of umpteen commercial linen threads I'd suggest that it's the direction of the plying that's more significant than the initial spin (which will be in the opposite direction). It's the ply direction that I quote in my book. Bellinger goes on to say: Cotton yarns from Asia and India, where the spinning of cotton began, are Z-spun - the opposite direction from Egyptian linen spinning. We suppose the original users of cotton watched its habits and used it accordingly. In our experience we have found that Z-spun cottons tighten with washing, and S-spun cottons tend to pull apart if not handled very gently. My observations are that anything designed for use on a sewing machine will be Z-plied, presumably to suit the way that the mechanism works, but maybe the early designers of sewing machines knew that Z-plied cotton thread is stronger than S-plied and designed their machines to suit. On the other hand, most cotton hand-embroidery threads, and cotton threads intended for lacemaking are S-plied. Does that go back to when machine spun cottons were first available and the embroiderers/lacemakers who were used to S-plied linen threads wanted their new cotton threads to be spun in the same direction? Brenda http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] beeswax, grain etc.
Hi everyone Have just read through a backlog of many lace-digests... a few remarks: Waxing linen is done to reduce friction on the thread, to keep it strong when having to repeatedly pushing a length through something like fabric or paper (as in buttonholing, making sails, bookbinding). If you are spinning flax to use for bobbin lace, take care when spinning to produce a strand with integrity. Instead of beeswax, use the linen self-sizing. It is a goo made from water and flax seed, allowed to stand until a gel forms - wet the fingers then draw the flax fibres to impart strength to the strand. Linen is already a stiff, un-elastic thread. Applying beeswax is unnecessary although it could produce an interesting very stiff effect, if that's what pleases the lacemaker. In a few weeks I'm giving a talk on handspinning for lace - definitely the focus will be on fibre alignment, for the handspinners. As others have pointed out, linen has a definite lengthwise beginning/end. Wool, also - wool fibres have tiny scales that face upward, which, if the desired result it a fine, smooth yarn from fleece, have to be facing the same direction when spun (= worsted-type yarn). If not, the result is fuzzier, called woollen yarn. Cotton fibres are very short - cotton is spun finely, and tightly, to give the best results. To my knowledge the cotton fibres are too short to be carefully aligned during spinning, so there wouldn't necessarily be 'grain' to cotton thread - a nap, maybe from the machine-spinning process. Certainly when plied, whether you look at the strand one way or another, the ply direction is the same. I can't see that it would make any difference coming off the spool, unless it is due to nap. But - those who work with the threads will know best, from experience. I have never noticed with cotton. With linen being so definite in its cell alignment, is this why the continental laces are often started from bundles of single threads? cut ends always at the same 'end' coming from the spool, or hank? -- bye for now Bev in Sooke, BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins www.woodhavenbobbins.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Beeswax colour and acidity
I confess there isn't any lace content in this at all, except it may help clarify the discussion that has been ongoing on the Lace board. The different colours of beeswax are dependant on how long it's been in the hive. The freshly built comb and the cappings (the wax the bees use to seal the chambers,) are very nearly white. The longer it stays in the hive the darker it gets as it crystallises and gets discoloured by day-to-day bee living and with propolis, the dark amber coloured 'stuff' that bees use to seal up gaps in the high. If the wax is whitened again by industrial processes it is being bleached. The wooden frames in the hive have a thin, man-made foundation of golden wax fitted into them, with the hexagon shapes lightly embossed. The bees then build their comb onto both sides of this, with fresh, nearly white wax. The queen is kept in one storey of the hive and the honey is stored by the bees away from the brood, so you can take frames from the other storeys and scrape off the caps and spin the honey out. As the wax building is labour intensive, you then replace the empty frames ready for the bees to refill, so they can concentrate on collecting nectar for honey and pollen to feed the brood. It would not be sense to remove that wax unless you were getting a very good price for it, as the bees can refill it several times over two or three years. The 'wild' comb I am referring to is when on the odd occasion a swarm of bees take over an empty hive (attracted by the honey/propolis smells in the wood). If this hive isn't full of frames, or if some of those frames have damaged foundation in them, the bees revert to nature and fill the spaces with wild comb which is a back-to-back cells on an oval or vaguely circular chunk of comb which hangs down from the top board of the hive or in gaps in the frames. When the beekeeper realises there are bees in the hive, these stray bits of comb are removed and replaced by 'proper' frames. If you want genuine, natural 'pale as it comes' beeswax you probably need to buy direct from a bee keeper who will take the trouble to separate their cappings and any bits of 'wild' comb from the bulk of the 2 or 3 year old wax from damaged or due-to-be- replaced frames. If you ask for some, it is perfectly possible that they can put some through their steamer/separator for you. However, mostly they don't bother because the golden colour of beeswax is what most people expect. Acid is only actively acid in water, so in wax it won't be active if that makes sense. The acidity in wax is low anyway. Therefore it seems unscientifically possible to conjecture that waxed thread has more protection from the acidity in the atmosphere than unwaxed. Jacquie in England - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Beeswax colour and acidity
In a message dated 8/2/2005 4:17:47 AM Mountain Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The different colours of beeswax are dependant on how long it's been in the hive. The freshly built comb and the cappings (the wax the bees use to seal the chambers,) are very nearly white. The longer it stays in the hive the darker it gets as it crystallises and gets discoloured by day-to-day bee living and with propolis, the dark amber coloured 'stuff' that bees use to seal up gaps in the high. If the wax is whitened again by industrial processes it is being bleached. . . . . Thank you, Jacquie -- very enlightening! I don't know if the artists beeswax sold here is bleached, or just lacks the propolis, but it is much more expensive than the raw wax I used to get from a beekeeper here. I suppose the resiny chemicals in propolis could account for the softer, more malleable properties of the yellow beeswaxIt's good to learn about this, since I know beeswax has been used for a long time to strengthen threads. I haven't heard of any long-term disintegration problems it might cause (yet), but I'm certainly no expert on the subject. At any rate, I'll spring for the more expensive white beeswax for my sewing on light threads, assuming that it's not bleached (which, if it were, I would suppose could leach disintegrating chemicals into the threads over time, knowing how harsh bleach is) Very interesting to learn all of this, and many thanks again! I'm glad to find out about this. Ricki Utah USA - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] beeswax
In a message dated 7/28/2005 6:17:35 PM Mountain Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: One thing I haven't seen raised in this thread - I seem to recall that beeswax is acidic. I don't know how acidic, and I don't know if or how beeswax would affect linen thread over time, but it is something to think about. If somebody has a piece that was made, say, at least 5-10 years ago, that had beeswax on it, it would be interesting to hear from them as to the current condition of the piece. I am always very reluctant to put *anything* onto my linen threads, since the very first linen doily I made turned deep amber brown on the parts where I reinforced my knots with fabric glue. Maybe none of my beeswax (sorry - couldn't resist!), but could acidity or the other characteristics affecting the suitability of beeswax over the long-term possibly have to do with whether (or how) it is processed or not? I've got some raw beeswax, that is yellow and has a distinct aroma (nice! - and cheap!), and processed beeswax that is white and odorless. It also seems to be harder, and maybe it would be more resistant to collecting dust. (I wouldn't use raw beeswax on white or light fibers, needless to say, but it's certainly useful for sewing on buttons, and certain other utilitarian tasks.) Ricki Utah (yup, the beehive state) USA - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] beeswax
the reason why i was interested in using wax on the thread is because i am going to spin it myself. i thought it would hold its twist better. it is going to be wet spun and i will let it dry completely before i untwist it from the spindle, but i want to make sure it will not untwist and break. there is also parafin wax, but i have no idea if that could be used in its place. parafin does not have the same chemical make up of beeswax and may not work at all. i don't think it yellows though. all wax probably can be used in any project, so i guess it wouldn't matter. --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 7/28/2005 6:17:35 PM Mountain Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: One thing I haven't seen raised in this thread - I seem to recall that beeswax is acidic. I don't know how acidic, and I don't know if or how beeswax would affect linen thread over time, but it is something to think about. If somebody has a piece that was made, say, at least 5-10 years ago, that had beeswax on it, it would be interesting to hear from them as to the current condition of the piece. I am always very reluctant to put *anything* onto my linen threads, since the very first linen doily I made turned deep amber brown on the parts where I reinforced my knots with fabric glue. Maybe none of my beeswax (sorry - couldn't resist!), but could acidity or the other characteristics affecting the suitability of beeswax over the long-term possibly have to do with whether (or how) it is processed or not? I've got some raw beeswax, that is yellow and has a distinct aroma (nice! - and cheap!), and processed beeswax that is white and odorless. It also seems to be harder, and maybe it would be more resistant to collecting dust. (I wouldn't use raw beeswax on white or light fibers, needless to say, but it's certainly useful for sewing on buttons, and certain other utilitarian tasks.) Ricki Utah (yup, the beehive state) USA - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] from susan in tennessee,u.s.a. Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] beeswax
hmmm, Beeswax. I use beeswax to rub over my pricking to prepare it for the job, so the needle slides in and out better. I never thought about the content. A candle would be better I guess? May the sun shine brightly on your projects today! Susie Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Morris, IL USA http://home.comcast.net/~cjohnson0969/home.html -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 1:51 PM To: lace@arachne.com Subject: Re: [lace] beeswax In a message dated 7/28/2005 6:17:35 PM Mountain Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: One thing I haven't seen raised in this thread - I seem to recall that beeswax is acidic. I don't know how acidic, and I don't know if or how beeswax would affect linen thread over time, but it is something to think about. If somebody has a piece that was made, say, at least 5-10 years ago, that had beeswax on it, it would be interesting to hear from them as to the current condition of the piece. I am always very reluctant to put *anything* onto my linen threads, since the very first linen doily I made turned deep amber brown on the parts where I reinforced my knots with fabric glue. Maybe none of my beeswax (sorry - couldn't resist!), but could acidity or the other characteristics affecting the suitability of beeswax over the long-term possibly have to do with whether (or how) it is processed or not? I've got some raw beeswax, that is yellow and has a distinct aroma (nice! - and cheap!), and processed beeswax that is white and odorless. It also seems to be harder, and maybe it would be more resistant to collecting dust. (I wouldn't use raw beeswax on white or light fibers, needless to say, but it's certainly useful for sewing on buttons, and certain other utilitarian tasks.) Ricki Utah (yup, the beehive state) USA - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
