[lace] Re ten-stick again
Dear Helen, Whenever possible, I would plan to finish a ten stick by sewing it to a previously completed section of ten stick. Where this is not possible, you could try throwing back a passive pair (next to the foot edge) in a couple of rows towards the end. Work to end, tie off all pairs. Cross two outer pairs beneath all threads and tie (reef knot and a half) above. The bundle can then be laid flat against the braid, and the pairs previously thron back tied to hold it in place. I would try a sample first, to see if it works, but certainly in Honiton this is a finish for ending a braid at a point. I see no reason why it cannot be adapted to ten stick, though it might work better with a rib which has more pairs rather than fewer. Karen In Coventry Where a rather pleasant day ended with thunder and rain. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.5/32 - Release Date: 27/06/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.5/32 - Release Date: 27/06/2005 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: ten-stick
There are three "turning stitch" variations that I know of, my definition of a turning stitch being the way to reverse direction without a pin, and this is how it has been referred to by the various teachers I have studied, with regardless of the movements used. First is the one that Tamara talked about which I was taught by Beryl Maw and Pat Perryman and I believe is in the Luxton and Thompson books (too tired to look it up as I didn't get home till 1.30 this morning) where you work through to the end, twist (only) the worker once and leave it and return with the last-pair-passed-thru, ie ctc at the edge. The next is Pat Read's ctctc Milanese variation Finally, a second one also taught to me by Pat Perryman, where you work to the end of the row and then with no twists at all, return with the same pair, ie ctc,ctc. I use the first and last for rib/tenstick. Because of the different "bulk" created by a 3 or 6 movement stitch, I might use both in the same piece of work or even on the same rib because the ts shouldn't show. For tight to medium curls I would choose the first, for medium to almost straight I would use the third. The ctctc is the hardest to use for rib *because* the pairs are split, and it is more difficult (therefore slower) to make sure that there are absolutely no slightly looser threads left at the ts side; the culprit could be in the edge passives or the workers. It is used in the Milanese braids because, by tensioning the correct combination of threads, you can a) move it from side to side, b) move it backwards and forwards and c) once you have tensioned everything tightly it locks in place to a large extent. This complexity isn't needed in a rib, so there is little point in using it in this situation. When you are doing rib, remember Pat Perryman's description - "you are making a tape not a piece of string", so keep the passives flat and an even width, not pulled as tight against the pins as you possibly can. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: ten-stick
From: Brenda Paternoster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I work the turning stitch on the inside curve of 10-stick/8-stick > as CTCTC. That changes one of the worker threads, not the pair. It > wouldn't work for colour but then 10-stick is used for a narrow > line/braid in a design and you probably wouldn't want colours > across the width. Colour changes down the length would have to be done > by tying in and cutting off regardless of stitch techniques. I haven't done it, but it seems to me that having "passives" (everybody gets to be worker periodically) different colors would make it look sort of like rope spiraling down. Color A would work across, then down the inside edge, color B next, etc. If they were a gradation (like light-to-dark green), it ought to produce stripes. If they were all- but-one the same, that should look like twisted cord/rope. I'll have to try it sometime! Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA (formerly Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: ten-stick
On 14 Jun 2005, at 02:29, Tamara P Duvall wrote: The "plain vanilla" tenstick is marked on a pricking as you describe - with a single line of pin-dots (on the outside curve). That's where you do your regular "sewing footside" edge, however you do it (T the worker prior to the "do-si-do". Then: CTCT the two prs, or CTTC them, with appropriate twists added. Place the pin under both pairss, take the inner of the two pairs as new worker). On the inner curve (pinless): cloth stitch the worker through all passive pairs, leave - pinless, and with or without a twist. A single twist makes the inner edge look more crisp. Two or more twists on the abandoned (erst-while Worker) pair will lessen the curve/straighten the line (while still bunching the passives together v closely). Take the last-cloth-stitched-through passive as your new worker, and cloth stitch to the footside pin. Repeat ad nauseam, or until no longer necessary. I work the turning stitch on the inside curve of 10-stick/8-stick as CTCTC. That changes one of the worker threads, not the pair. It wouldn't work for colour but then 10-stick is used for a narrow line/braid in a design and you probably wouldn't want colours across the width. Colour changes down the length would have to be done by tying in and cutting off regardless of stitch techniques. Brenda http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: ten-stick
On Jun 13, 2005, at 18:46, Patricia Dowden wrote (in response to Helen in Somerset): How do I work ten-stick? [...] I know it's a Honiton stitch which is half cloth stitch and half "hollow" squares [...] Ten-stick is a little tiny tape with a footside on one side and turning stitch on the other side. It is indicated on a pricking with just a single line of pinholes. The hollow squares are the footside. The cloth stitch is worked with a turning stitch. Patty, you're *incorrigible* :) Just as you solved a puzzle for me (the "half hollow squares"), you managed to throw in a curve ball that's worse... :) "cloth stitch is worked with a turning stitch"??? Either/or; fish or cut bait; whatever... But you can't have *both*, since they're not the same animal... :) The "plain vanilla" tenstick is marked on a pricking as you describe - with a single line of pin-dots (on the outside curve). That's where you do your regular "sewing footside" edge, however you do it (T the worker prior to the "do-si-do". Then: CTCT the two prs, or CTTC them, with appropriate twists added. Place the pin under both pairss, take the inner of the two pairs as new worker). On the inner curve (pinless): cloth stitch the worker through all passive pairs, leave - pinless, and with or without a twist. A single twist makes the inner edge look more crisp. Two or more twists on the abandoned (erst-while Worker) pair will lessen the curve/straighten the line (while still bunching the passives together v closely). Take the last-cloth-stitched-through passive as your new worker, and cloth stitch to the footside pin. Repeat ad nauseam, or until no longer necessary. What Patty has suggested - a turning stitch on the inside - is stage 2 (possibly 3, since the "plain vanilla" doesn't allow for colour work, and, therefore, does not mention the CTTC possibility in the edge/Work pair exchange). This is always a possible stumble-block, as I well remember from my own, primary-school, math problems... My parents would find a better-educated friend to answer my un-answerable questions. The friend would come, consume the laid-on supper, drink the vodka, look at my problem, and say: "oh, I don't do arithmethic; I'm into calculus"... When you know too much, it's difficult to imagine that others know less, and scale down your explanations accordingly :) Indeed, you *can* have a turning stitch (CTTC) on the pinless side of the "tenstick" (called a "rib" in Cook's "Practical Skills", BTW, for anyone who has the book and wants to find illustrations. I ended up writing "tenstick" next to the listing), if you're working in colour; it produces some wonderful new vistas... But... It's *not* the traditional "tenstick"... :) Which is what - I think - what Helen was asking for. Yours, back to the exploration of 3-D/carrying pairs possibilities, of which the tenstick is one. Oh, and BTW... The *minimum* number of pairs that can be used in a tenstick is 4 (8-stitck ), not 5 (there's no maximum - the sky's the limit). The "minimum number of pairs necesssary" (and minimum of effort altogether ) has been the constant drumbeat in all my Rosalibre experiments, so things like that are very forefront, and I've not yet forgotten them It just occured to me that all the pairs move all the time. Nope (you can see I'm not a politician; equivocating does not come easy to me ). The minimum - *one* - "true passive" *does not*, not even in an 8-stick... :) It rides *down* all the way, with no distractions, never becoming an edge or a Worker pair. And the more pairs you have in the rib, the more pairs (all passives) stay "still"; there are *only three* "busy bees" (two edge pairs and the Worker. Changing positions - or not)... Yours, with a - possibly? - "new" stem to use in Rosalibre... -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
