RE: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread pene piip

Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops
that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with
an extra 2 to 3 inches around the edge  then stick the contact to the
pricking  the pillow  you don't need any pins.
I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the
pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath.
I suppose then you'd have to develop a filing system for your prickings.

Pene in Tartu, Estonia
where she is in a lace designing mode.

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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread David C COLLYER

Dear Friends,
I should have said when I first wrote this question, that my pricking 
are always photocopies or scans covered in Contact. As such, threads 
like these would not hold, or would tear the pricking.


Thanks
David in Ballarat


sew
long loops of thread into the pricking at strategic points (e.g. where you
would normally pin), and pin the loops tight 'way back from the pricking,
thus tethering the pricking in place. You will have cover cloths over the
areas (yes?) so that nothing will catch on the tethering threads.


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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread David C COLLYER

At 02:49 AM 10/04/2010, Sue Babbs wrote:
Ulrike Loehr (I've forgotten her married name) cuts her blue plastic 
film bigger than the pricking and uses that to secure the pricking 
to the pillow. I don't find that this works well if you have a piece 
on the pillow for a long time, but then you can pin through the film 
only, and this pin tends to press in below the level of the pricking


Now that's an idea I haven't tried, and it sounds like it might work for me.
Thanks
David

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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread David C COLLYER

Clay,
Ulrike Voelker also says .Instead, we should place a temporary 
pin off to the side, but toward you, so that the threads must come 
down in a straighter line before moving off to the side.


I have always done that. In fact I use a tall hat pin so that 7 or 8 
bobbin holders will still stay around it. I also worked out that this 
large pin should be at an angle of 45 degrees and about 1 (2.5cm) 
lower than the working area.


Personally I feel that the pricking would not buckle so much if it 
was a thin Manilla-type card, but as mine are always paper with 
Contact, this is often a problem. I feel it has something to do with 
large areas of point ground, rather than the areas of half or whole 
stitch, and may well be the angle of the pins in those areas.


David



Clay



On 4/9/2010 12:49 PM, Sue Babbs wrote:
Ulrike Loehr (I've forgotten her married name) cuts her blue 
plastic film bigger than the pricking and uses that to secure the 
pricking to the pillow. I don't find that this works well if you 
have a piece on the pillow for a long time, but then you can pin 
through the film only, and this pin tends to press in below the 
level of the pricking


Sue Babbs
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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread David C COLLYER

Dear Liz,


I fully understand what you are saying, but would not like to risk 
damage to one of the last pillows made with horse hair in Australia.

Thanks
David

I would like to share a method that I learned from Robin Lewis 
Wild.  It only works on a straw filled pillow and it does involve 
the sacrifice of some pins.  It also works best if the pins are 
long.  I have found that this method secures the pricking very 
firmly to the pillow and puts the pin heads so far in to the pillow 
that my threads never catch on them.  Let me see if I can describe it.


It requires two pins at each place you secure the pricking.  The 
first is pushed straight through the pricking and into the 
pillow.  Leave about half the pin sticking up out of the 
pillow.  Bend that end at a 90 degree angle (actually I usually bend 
the pin before I put it in the pillow).  So you now have a bent pin 
with half of it going through the pricking into the pillow and the 
upper half laying on top of the pillow.


The second pin is placed across the first pin at a 90 degree 
angle.  This pin will take a bite out of the pillow (be sure to 
catch the main part of the pillow and not just the covering), come 
up across the end of the bent pin and then go back into the pillow again.


This is probably a little hard to visualize.  I will be happy to try 
to take a picture of this if someone will talk me through how to get 
the photo into a place where everyone on arachne can see it.


Liz Redford
Raleigh, NC, USA
 David C COLLYER dccoll...@ncable.net.au wrote:
 Dear Friends,
 Another questions for your wonderful combination of minds.

 How do you secure your pricking to the pillow?

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RE: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread David C COLLYER

At 05:08 PM 10/04/2010, pene piip wrote:

Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops
that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with
an extra 2 to 3 inches around the edge  then stick the contact to the
pricking  the pillow  you don't need any pins.
I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the
pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath.
I suppose then you'd have to develop a filing system for your prickings.


Surely you'd just trim off the extra plastic once you've finished.
David in Ballarat

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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread bev walker
hm, well - my prickings are paper photocopies with a layer of clear packing
tape. You could try the tethers (or moorings - thanks Sally!), they do hold
and there is no see-saw pulling on the pricking that would cause a tear. I
sew the threads through the pricking with a needle. If there is a concern
with tearing, reinforce the point of attachment with tape :)
You don't *have* to try it, it is more fiddly than simply placing pins, but
it is a different and rather pleasing set-up.

On Sat, Apr 10, 2010 at 6:51 AM, David C COLLYER dccoll...@ncable.net.auwrote:

 Dear Friends,
 I should have said when I first wrote this question, that my pricking are
 always photocopies or scans covered in Contact. As such, threads like these
 would not hold, or would tear the pricking.

 Thanks
 David in Ballarat


  sew
 long loops of thread into the pricking at strategic points (e.g. where you
 would normally pin), and pin the loops tight 'way back from the pricking,
 thus tethering the pricking in place. You will have cover cloths over the
 areas (yes?) so that nothing will catch on the tethering threads.






-- 
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
Canada

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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread Su Carter

On Apr 10, 2010, at 10:02 AM, David C COLLYER wrote:



Personally I feel that the pricking would not buckle so much if it  
was a thin Manilla-type card, but as mine are always paper with  
Contact, this is often a problem. I feel it has something to do  
with large areas of point ground, rather than the areas of half or  
whole stitch, and may well be the angle of the pins in those areas.


David



Hi David,

Oy, I hate lifting prickings -- I've had it happen with thin pricking  
card, thick pricking card, and Contact!!! Aaargh!


Yes, I agree that large areas of point ground are likely to be a  
problem and watching the angle of the pins VERY carefully generally  
sorts it for me. On the other hand, you could always leave out the  
pins altogether in the point ground. Or if that gives you heartburn,  
try pinning every other diagonal, or only leaving in 3 or 4 rows at  
the working edge and pulling the rest.


Good Luck!
Su, in finally back to normal spring weather
Williamsburg, VA

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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread kygerman
I do this for a lot of years. I just turn the excess sticky part under. 
Reinforcement.


Christa

--
From: Sue Babbs sueba...@comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 10:28 AM
To: lace@arachne.com
Subject: Fw: [lace] Securing prickings


If you want to keep the pricking, just trim off the excess contact paper.

Or in the case of the stuff I buy from Walgreen's, you can just peel it 
off. A little of the inkjet ink comes too, but the pricking would still be 
useable.


Sue Babbs


- Original Message - 
From: pene piip p...@eggo.org

I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the
pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath.
I suppose then you'd have to develop a filing system for your prickings.




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RE: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread Jay Ekers
If it is paper+contact it is only re-usable a few time so make two copies
originally and file the spare photocopy.

Jay in Sydney

-Original Message-
From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of
David C COLLYER
Sent: Sunday, 11 April 2010 12:25 AM
To: pene piip; Arachne Arachne
Subject: RE: [lace] Securing prickings

At 05:08 PM 10/04/2010, pene piip wrote:
Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops 
that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with 
an extra 2 to 3 inches around the edge  then stick the contact to the 
pricking  the pillow  you don't need any pins.
I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the 
pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath.
I suppose then you'd have to develop a filing system for your prickings.

Surely you'd just trim off the extra plastic once you've finished.
David in Ballarat

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RE: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-10 Thread robinlace
 pene piip p...@eggo.org wrote: 
Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops
that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with

I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the
pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything underneath.
===

I took a workshop on applique, and the pattern pieces were made of adhesive 
film (Contact paper).  We stored them on a piece of mylar.

Another way to store film-edged prickings, since they have lint on them after 
being on the pillow, is to stick them to more adhesive film (the right side, 
leaving the paper backing in place) or similar material that won't be damaged 
by something stuck to it.  Or back onto the paper backing that that piece of 
film came off (don't throw it away when you make the pricking.

Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
robinl...@socal.rr.com

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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-09 Thread bev walker
That would work, unless your thread catches on the tape :p

I would like to share Sally Schoenberg's method, hope she doesn't mind - sew
long loops of thread into the pricking at strategic points (e.g. where you
would normally pin), and pin the loops tight 'way back from the pricking,
thus tethering the pricking in place. You will have cover cloths over the
areas (yes?) so that nothing will catch on the tethering threads.

On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 6:53 AM, David C COLLYER dccoll...@ncable.net.auwrote:


 However, if I'm not careful the pricking can easily develop a slight kink
 or buckle. So I am considering using a lot of pins to secure the pricking
 and then perhaps covering them with masking tape or gaffer tape.


-- 
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
Canada

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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-09 Thread Sue Babbs
Ulrike Loehr (I've forgotten her married name) cuts her blue plastic film 
bigger than the pricking and uses that to secure the pricking to the pillow. 
I don't find that this works well if you have a piece on the pillow for a 
long time, but then you can pin through the film only, and this pin tends to 
press in below the level of the pricking


Sue Babbs 


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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-09 Thread lynrbailey
Dear David,

You have to use the right pins to get the pricking on the pillow.  The right 
pins have a very flat head.  I use ordinary sewing pins, which are thin in the 
shaft and usually have a nice flat head.  I press them into the pillow well, 
almost a slight depression there, and I never have a problem with the pins.  I 
know I did this with success with my Honiton learning flower.  But then there 
was the cover cloths  With coarser threads 60/2, I have done this with 
success, no cover cloths, etc. 

Lyn from Pennsylvania, where it's blowing, cloudy, but everything is greening 
and growing.  Tulips are coming out.  lrb   


-Original Message-
From: David C COLLYER dccoll...@ncable.net.au
Sent: Apr 9, 2010 9:53 AM
To: lace@arachne.com
Subject: [lace] Securing prickings

Dear Friends,
Another questions for your wonderful combination of minds.

How do you secure your pricking to the pillow?

I ask this because when I am working on something like a square or 
hexagonal edging I try to use as few pins as possible. I can't stand 
the bobbins I am using catching on them.

However, if I'm not careful the pricking can easily develop a slight 
kink or buckle. So I am considering using a lot of pins to secure the 
pricking and then perhaps covering them with masking tape or gaffer tape.

Ideas welcome
David in Ballarat

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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-09 Thread Clay Blackwell
Ulrike Voelker also says that there are other reasons that the pricking 
gets kinks or buckles.  She advises not using a card that is extremely 
stiff, and also be careful about how you're placing the pins.  The 
headside and footside pins (or edge pins, if not an edging), should be 
tilted *slightly* outward, while the rest of the pins should be as 
straight as possible.  And the main culprit, she says, is that we park 
our bobbins to the side (where else?) which makes our threads pull to 
the side causing the lace to rise and the pricking to buckle.  Instead, 
we should place a temporary pin off to the side, but toward you, so that 
the threads must come down in a straighter line before moving off to the 
side.


Clay



On 4/9/2010 12:49 PM, Sue Babbs wrote:
Ulrike Loehr (I've forgotten her married name) cuts her blue plastic 
film bigger than the pricking and uses that to secure the pricking to 
the pillow. I don't find that this works well if you have a piece on 
the pillow for a long time, but then you can pin through the film 
only, and this pin tends to press in below the level of the pricking


Sue Babbs
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RE: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-09 Thread Noelene Lafferty
I secure my prickings with just a normal lace pin pushed right in, but I do
have a special drawcloth - it is a square of two layers of fabric, with a
large U shape cut out of one side, the width of the lace I am making.  It
usually the same size as my block pillow.  It covers the pillow, except for
the actual strip of lace I'm working on.

I machine sew up one side, across the side with the U in it, including
around the U shape, and down a third side.   Clip the curves of the U, turn
inside out, press, turn in raw edges of the fourth side in and topsew.

That way I can push bobbins smoothly either side right up to the top of the
pillow, and it also covers the pins holding the pricking down.

Noelene in Cooma
nlaffe...@ozemail.com.au

 How do you secure your pricking to the pillow?

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Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-09 Thread lbuyred
David,
I would like to share a method that I learned from Robin Lewis Wild.  It only 
works on a straw filled pillow and it does involve the sacrifice of some pins.  
It also works best if the pins are long.  I have found that this method secures 
the pricking very firmly to the pillow and puts the pin heads so far in to the 
pillow that my threads never catch on them.  Let me see if I can describe it.

It requires two pins at each place you secure the pricking.  The first is 
pushed straight through the pricking and into the pillow.  Leave about half the 
pin sticking up out of the pillow.  Bend that end at a 90 degree angle 
(actually I usually bend the pin before I put it in the pillow).  So you now 
have a bent pin with half of it going through the pricking into the pillow and 
the upper half laying on top of the pillow.  

The second pin is placed across the first pin at a 90 degree angle.  This pin 
will take a bite out of the pillow (be sure to catch the main part of the 
pillow and not just the covering), come up across the end of the bent pin and 
then go back into the pillow again.

This is probably a little hard to visualize.  I will be happy to try to take a 
picture of this if someone will talk me through how to get the photo into a 
place where everyone on arachne can see it.

Liz Redford
Raleigh, NC, USA
 David C COLLYER dccoll...@ncable.net.au wrote: 
 Dear Friends,
 Another questions for your wonderful combination of minds.
 
 How do you secure your pricking to the pillow?

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
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arachnemodera...@yahoo.com


Re: [lace] Securing prickings

2010-04-09 Thread Marji Sakievich
I love this idea.  Need to make one and give it a try.

Marji





From: Noelene Lafferty nlaffe...@ozemail.com.au
To: lace@arachne.com
Sent: Fri, April 9, 2010 2:44:01 PM
Subject: RE: [lace] Securing prickings

I secure my prickings with just a normal lace pin pushed right in, but I do
have a special drawcloth - it is a square of two layers of fabric, with a
large U shape cut out of one side, the width of the lace I am making.  It
usually the same size as my block pillow.  It covers the pillow, except for
the actual strip of lace I'm working on.

I machine sew up one side, across the side with the U in it, including
around the U shape, and down a third side.   Clip the curves of the U, turn
inside out, press, turn in raw edges of the fourth side in and topsew.

That way I can push bobbins smoothly either side right up to the top of the
pillow, and it also covers the pins holding the pricking down.

Noelene in Cooma
nlaffe...@ozemail.com.au

 How do you secure your pricking to the pillow?

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