Gimp
I tend to be a lurker here on the Legacy Board. I have a 1200. If you decide to download GIMP be sure to go to www.gimp.org to obtain it. The current version is 2.8.10 It you merely go to Google or Bing and type gimp then you will have a lot of links that look official but that will download a virus or other malware before loading in Gimp. Your anti-virus may catch these or may not. gimp.org is the real site. I have been a computer systems analyst since 1962... Beginning to implement a big change to my woodwork in my house this coming week. I will post a shot when it is partially complete to show you what I am doing. Nothing great, but the mill will make the project a lot easier. I live in a little mining town in Appalachia (southeastern Ohio) and bought a 100 year old house for 13K and fixing it in the Victorian rendition... to a degree. The LOM makes some of the work easier.. I have the rotary table, horizontal vice, vertical vice, circle cutter, linear platform, all gear sets, pilaster dogs (4 sizes), z-axis, and the portable (wheels) and drop cloth. And probably some things I have forgotten since it is the middle of the night here. regards Thomas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: Gimp + Paint/Renovation Safety Warning
Thomas, GREAT hearing from a lurker - and THANK YOU for the tip on Gimp - I know we ALL appreciate the info - helps to keep us safe online. I normally don't chime in with a Thanks( Please assume all Group Members ARE thankful). My primary reason for this note is to inform (or remind) you of the hazards of lead-based paint. I can assure you there is a 99.9% chance the paint on the 100 yr old house has lead in it. If a contractor disturbs any area larger than, I think, 6 square feet, they have to be EPA RRP Certified and are required to do quite a bit to remediate the hazards from the paint (lead dust in the air, on the floor, etc.). Believe me - this is a BIG DEAL! Lowes just got fined half a million dollars because they had installers who did not meet the RRP requirements. I do not think these EPA regulations apply to YOU doing the renovations (yourself) - however, the underlying dangers remain. You need to take considerable cautionary steps to keep from contaminating yourself, your home and the surrounding landscape - to include proper disposal of the renovation debris. I don't want to scare you - just want you and fellow Group Members to be aware of the dangers requirements that working on a building built before 1976(?) bring with it. Please Bing Lead-based paint and renovations for more specifics. I think the built before date is 1976. Mac -- -Original Message- From: Thomas Ellis tellis0...@gmail.com Sent: May 16, 2014 1:28 AM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Gimp I tend to be a lurker here on the Legacy Board. I have a 1200. If you decide to download GIMP be sure to go to www.gimp.org to obtain it. The current version is 2.8.10 It you merely go to Google or Bing and type gimp then you will have a lot of links that look official but that will download a virus or other malware before loading in Gimp. Your anti-virus may catch these or may not. gimp.org is the real site. I have been a computer systems analyst since 1962... Beginning to implement a big change to my woodwork in my house this coming week. I will post a shot when it is partially complete to show you what I am doing. Nothing great, but the mill will make the project a lot easier. I live in a little mining town in Appalachia (southeastern Ohio) and bought a 100 year old house for 13K and fixing it in the Victorian rendition... to a degree. The LOM makes some of the work easier.. I have the rotary table, horizontal vice, vertical vice, circle cutter, linear platform, all gear sets, pilaster dogs (4 sizes), z-axis, and the portable (wheels) and drop cloth. And probably some things I have forgotten since it is the middle of the night here. regards Thomas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: gear question
They sound like the main drive and standard duplex gear for the old woodchuck model (MA-12). Yes Legacy made a change to the gear count during the middle of the model 900's. I don't know why, I could only guess that reduced tooth count on the newer machines (larger teeth) decreased manufacturing time. 88 versus 180 teeth and the larger teeth are easier to maintain definition and increase laser speed. From a user stand point it's hard to say which one is better. Both styles end up in the same destination. On my duplex gear (large teeth) I have to clean out the teeth occasionally. Does this happen on the small teeth version? -Tim - Original Message - From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 1:38 PM Subject: gear question can anyone explain...i have two gears that seem a bit out of place...one is 7 1/2 dia., fine tooth, rectangular hole(headstock gear) but with no holes for indexing...the other gear is also 7 1/2 dia. and has the smaller 2 gear with four bolts bolting them together but the smaller gear is a fine tooth...could this set be from a woodchuck machine, which i do have?...for the record the paperwork i have says the machine was made in 1995 and is a model MA-12...obviously it seems legacy changed at some point to that larger tooth, headstock gear meshing with the smaller, 2, large tooth gear...was/is there a specific reason for the change?...is the fine tooth better than the large tooth?...any opinions out there?thanks...joe -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: Photography for LOM users
Neat Don. Thank you. C.A.G. - Original Message - Here's another way to deal with distracting background, but this time we're going to place the image in a different setting. We're still using the free GIMP program and a very simple method to get the effect. I use a photo I took of a room with a muslin backdrop and I deliberately left some tools and such around to show how easily they are dealt with. The table picture was taken in our kitchen after the table was restored. The table image is layered on top of the other image and then the background is erased. The base layer is thereby revealed. If you try to follow along practice with the tools and use Control+Z a lot. When the work is finished Save As with a new name. That way the original images remain untouched and you can place the new file in any folder you wish. Next time I plan to move on to another program to show some other image manipulation methods. Somewhere along the line I want to consider lighting to improve the quality of the image. Best regards, Don Will trade my wife's yarn for tools. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com . To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com . Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout . -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: time for a question or two......
Did this chuck work? I can't find it on Grizzly's site. What's the part number or link? My only concern is what's the swing of the whole piece and does it need a drawbar to stay in place? The legacy is not designed to pound a 2mt object into the headstock. You have to be nice to the socket :-). -Tim - Original Message - From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2014 1:49 PM Subject: Re: time for a question or two.. @ cole...but what if you want to back out that 1 router bit a bit because it better suits the finished look you are trying to achieve?...let's say to 7/8...the whole mathematics thing is not usable...i found a grizzly piece that i think will be a nice add-on piece to the legacy and let you index to any cut you want...any repeat from 1 to 360...it will be here in my shop tomorrow and i will begin the not-to-difficult process to modify it to fit the legacy...see attachment...there are 15 degree indents built into the chuck(24 divisions)...the chuck is 3 in diameter...and it has a #2 morse taper...should be interesting if i can pull this off...thanks for the reply...joe On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 4:18:37 PM UTC-4, cole wrote: You move the router the diameter of the bit. Say you have a 1 in. rope bit ,you move 1 in. forward or back it does not matter reengage the router so you can crank it back to the original starting position. you will automatically be ready to do the next start on your twist. On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 4:09 PM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com wrote: first photo shows the headstock on the outboard side...the machine originally had a two gear set up...one at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock...the gear positions were not movable so there were only a few gears available, and thus, only a few pitches...the bottom gear is what drove the workpiece...the top gear has a spider gear on the inboard side which meshes with another spider gear which is connected to that horizontal shaft that goes from front to back(photos to follow in another post)...the shaft is attached to two chain sprockets...one drives the router platform, the other is part of a dc drive...the third shaft at the 9 o'clock position is one that we added...this add on gave us many more pitches to work with by adding a third gear into the mix...but we also had to have some adjustability, so the 6 o'clock gear is movable...in the second picture you can see the two adjustment bolts...but even with this adjustment and the low accuracy which the gears are made from, causes serious backlash issuesand then factor in the backlash of the spider gears...another improvement we made was the adding ball bearings...all rotaring shafts had bronze, sleeve bearings that quickly egged out...so we set up the ball bearings and holders and welded them in place...i believe there are about 10 locations on this machine that we did that...the pin on the lower right is used to index the workpiece for straight cuts On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 2:58:27 PM UTC-4, joe biunno wrote: tim, as you requested...and possibly anyone's interest themselves...i'll post description seperately On Monday, May 12, 2014 6:56:54 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote: That gear is what got me more interested in what's happening on that machine! - Original Message - From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 3:54 PM Subject: Re: time for a question or two.. tim...thanks for the responses...you always make good points...and i think i have learned a lot more from this group of weekend warriors then i have given back...so i'll say thanks to all!...i'll have to post additional photos in the morning though...not currently in the shop...but i will point out that i was never happy with the killinger set up...it has a spider gear configuration because it has to make a 90 degree turn(just like the rear end on a car)...and between initial gear slop and wear on the gears( with no way to adjust it as it wears), the back lash is quite a bit...like i said, almost 45 degrees!...now, once you begin and you take up the slop, all is ok...at least 90% of the time...occasionally in the middle of doing a 12 cut piece, the back lash can come up and ruin a piece...luckily, it does not happen often...the legacy is so much better...for historical reference, i made this 13 ft. beast back in the late 80's/early 90's...i did talk to andy about making a custom lengthened machine at that time but the price
Re: time for a question or two......
Found it on Grizzly's site. Are you sure it has a #2MT? -Tim - Original Message - From: Tim Krause To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 5:31 PM Subject: Re: time for a question or two.. Did this chuck work? I can't find it on Grizzly's site. What's the part number or link? My only concern is what's the swing of the whole piece and does it need a drawbar to stay in place? The legacy is not designed to pound a 2mt object into the headstock. You have to be nice to the socket :-). -Tim - Original Message - From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2014 1:49 PM Subject: Re: time for a question or two.. @ cole...but what if you want to back out that 1 router bit a bit because it better suits the finished look you are trying to achieve?...let's say to 7/8...the whole mathematics thing is not usable...i found a grizzly piece that i think will be a nice add-on piece to the legacy and let you index to any cut you want...any repeat from 1 to 360...it will be here in my shop tomorrow and i will begin the not-to-difficult process to modify it to fit the legacy...see attachment...there are 15 degree indents built into the chuck(24 divisions)...the chuck is 3 in diameter...and it has a #2 morse taper...should be interesting if i can pull this off...thanks for the reply...joe On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 4:18:37 PM UTC-4, cole wrote: You move the router the diameter of the bit. Say you have a 1 in. rope bit ,you move 1 in. forward or back it does not matter reengage the router so you can crank it back to the original starting position. you will automatically be ready to do the next start on your twist. On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 4:09 PM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com wrote: first photo shows the headstock on the outboard side...the machine originally had a two gear set up...one at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock...the gear positions were not movable so there were only a few gears available, and thus, only a few pitches...the bottom gear is what drove the workpiece...the top gear has a spider gear on the inboard side which meshes with another spider gear which is connected to that horizontal shaft that goes from front to back(photos to follow in another post)...the shaft is attached to two chain sprockets...one drives the router platform, the other is part of a dc drive...the third shaft at the 9 o'clock position is one that we added...this add on gave us many more pitches to work with by adding a third gear into the mix...but we also had to have some adjustability, so the 6 o'clock gear is movable...in the second picture you can see the two adjustment bolts...but even with this adjustment and the low accuracy which the gears are made from, causes serious backlash issuesand then factor in the backlash of the spider gears...another improvement we made was the adding ball bearings...all rotaring shafts had bronze, sleeve bearings that quickly egged out...so we set up the ball bearings and holders and welded them in place...i believe there are about 10 locations on this machine that we did that...the pin on the lower right is used to index the workpiece for straight cuts On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 2:58:27 PM UTC-4, joe biunno wrote: tim, as you requested...and possibly anyone's interest themselves...i'll post description seperately On Monday, May 12, 2014 6:56:54 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote: That gear is what got me more interested in what's happening on that machine! - Original Message - From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 3:54 PM Subject: Re: time for a question or two.. tim...thanks for the responses...you always make good points...and i think i have learned a lot more from this group of weekend warriors then i have given back...so i'll say thanks to all!...i'll have to post additional photos in the morning though...not currently in the shop...but i will point out that i was never happy with the killinger set up...it has a spider gear configuration because it has to make a 90 degree turn(just like the rear end on a car)...and between initial gear slop and wear on the gears( with no way to adjust it as it wears), the back lash is quite a bit...like i said, almost 45 degrees!...now, once you begin and you take up the slop, all is ok...at
Re: time for a question or two......
here's an update tim...got the chuck today, a day later than i anticipated...the idea is to get a 6 faceplate(here monday) with a 1-8 thread...screw the faceplate onto the headstock...also setting up a 1 shaft collar so the faceplate can never unscrew when in use...this will be welded to the back of the faceplate, in a similiar set up of legacy's double shaft collar lock...a lot of these pieces are from mcmaster-carr...also purchased a #2 morse taper collet that has a 1/2 bore...i have already turned a piece of brass to use as an alignment pin,,,1/2 on one side and 19/32 on the other, which is the bore of the indexing chuck(it does not have a morse taper built into it, as i had thought)...get everything in place and aligned, tack weld the indexer to the faceplate, remove the assembly from the headstock by simply unscrewing it and finish the mounting by drilling and tapping holes threw the faceplate into the back of the chuck...then grind away the tack welds...this is so i can separate the faceplate and indexing chuck in the future if i have to...i can then screw the indexer onto the headstock like it is an accessory piece...unscrew it and the headstock is exactly like it was before, with no modifications...about the only issues i can see is the fact that the entire assembly will protrude from the end of the headstock more than i thought(about 5) and the unit will have a bit of weight to it( i'll guess and say at least 16 lbs.!...yikes!)...although i will probably reduce the weight of the indexer a good amount by milling/cutting/grinding as much as i can, since a lot of it is not necessary...don't have the part # of the indexer with me now but look in the section that has rotary tables...work resumes on monday and will certainly post photos and give an update...your comments and suggestions are welcome...thanks...joe On Friday, May 16, 2014 8:31:48 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote: Did this chuck work? I can't find it on Grizzly's site. What's the part number or link? My only concern is what's the swing of the whole piece and does it need a drawbar to stay in place? The legacy is not designed to pound a 2mt object into the headstock. You have to be nice to the socket :-). -Tim - Original Message - *From:* 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills javascript: *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com javascript: *Sent:* Wednesday, May 14, 2014 1:49 PM *Subject:* Re: time for a question or two.. @ cole...but what if you want to back out that 1 router bit a bit because it better suits the finished look you are trying to achieve?...let's say to 7/8...the whole mathematics thing is not usable...i found a grizzly piece that i think will be a nice add-on piece to the legacy and let you index to any cut you want...any repeat from 1 to 360...it will be here in my shop tomorrow and i will begin the not-to-difficult process to modify it to fit the legacy...see attachment...there are 15 degree indents built into the chuck(24 divisions)...the chuck is 3 in diameter...and it has a #2 morse taper...should be interesting if i can pull this off...thanks for the reply...joe On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 4:18:37 PM UTC-4, cole wrote: You move the router the diameter of the bit. Say you have a 1 in. rope bit ,you move 1 in. forward or back it does not matter reengage the router so you can crank it back to the original starting position. you will automatically be ready to do the next start on your twist. On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 4:09 PM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com wrote: first photo shows the headstock on the outboard side...the machine originally had a two gear set up...one at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock...the gear positions were not movable so there were only a few gears available, and thus, only a few pitches...the bottom gear is what drove the workpiece...the top gear has a spider gear on the inboard side which meshes with another spider gear which is connected to that horizontal shaft that goes from front to back(photos to follow in another post)...the shaft is attached to two chain sprockets...one drives the router platform, the other is part of a dc drive...the third shaft at the 9 o'clock position is one that we added...this add on gave us many more pitches to work with by adding a third gear into the mix...but we also had to have some adjustability, so the 6 o'clock gear is movable...in the second picture you can see the two adjustment bolts...but even with this adjustment and the low accuracy which the gears are made from, causes serious backlash issuesand then factor in the backlash of the spider gears...another improvement we made was the adding ball bearings...all rotaring shafts had bronze, sleeve bearings that quickly egged out...so we set up the ball bearings and holders and welded
Re: time for a question or two......
16lbs is a lot of extra weight, but your headstock can easily take it. I don't like the idea that it's unbalanced. Grinding away a $200 fixture really makes my mind go crazy. I would think you could fabricate something much smaller in your shop. In fact it's something I've given quite a bit of thought to in the past and started on an idea that I did not follow through with. It was a disk with 24 holes in it. The idea was to mount the disk to the stock. The headstock had a locating pin in the center and that fit one of the holes in the disk. To change the index you open up the tailstock and rotate the work to your next index. I don't think I ever showed the group that one. -Tim - Original Message - From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 6:22 PM Subject: Re: time for a question or two.. here's an update tim...got the chuck today, a day later than i anticipated...the idea is to get a 6 faceplate(here monday) with a 1-8 thread...screw the faceplate onto the headstock...also setting up a 1 shaft collar so the faceplate can never unscrew when in use...this will be welded to the back of the faceplate, in a similiar set up of legacy's double shaft collar lock...a lot of these pieces are from mcmaster-carr...also purchased a #2 morse taper collet that has a 1/2 bore...i have already turned a piece of brass to use as an alignment pin,,,1/2 on one side and 19/32 on the other, which is the bore of the indexing chuck(it does not have a morse taper built into it, as i had thought)...get everything in place and aligned, tack weld the indexer to the faceplate, remove the assembly from the headstock by simply unscrewing it and finish the mounting by drilling and tapping holes threw the faceplate into the back of the chuck...then grind away the tack welds...this is so i can separate the faceplate and indexing chuck in the future if i have to...i can then screw the indexer onto the headstock like it is an accessory piece...unscrew it and the headstock is exactly like it was before, with no modifications...about the only issues i can see is the fact that the entire assembly will protrude from the end of the headstock more than i thought(about 5) and the unit will have a bit of weight to it( i'll guess and say at least 16 lbs.!...yikes!)...although i will probably reduce the weight of the indexer a good amount by milling/cutting/grinding as much as i can, since a lot of it is not necessary...don't have the part # of the indexer with me now but look in the section that has rotary tables...work resumes on monday and will certainly post photos and give an update...your comments and suggestions are welcome...thanks...joe On Friday, May 16, 2014 8:31:48 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote: Did this chuck work? I can't find it on Grizzly's site. What's the part number or link? My only concern is what's the swing of the whole piece and does it need a drawbar to stay in place? The legacy is not designed to pound a 2mt object into the headstock. You have to be nice to the socket :-). -Tim - Original Message - From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2014 1:49 PM Subject: Re: time for a question or two.. @ cole...but what if you want to back out that 1 router bit a bit because it better suits the finished look you are trying to achieve?...let's say to 7/8...the whole mathematics thing is not usable...i found a grizzly piece that i think will be a nice add-on piece to the legacy and let you index to any cut you want...any repeat from 1 to 360...it will be here in my shop tomorrow and i will begin the not-to-difficult process to modify it to fit the legacy...see attachment...there are 15 degree indents built into the chuck(24 divisions)...the chuck is 3 in diameter...and it has a #2 morse taper...should be interesting if i can pull this off...thanks for the reply...joe On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 4:18:37 PM UTC-4, cole wrote: You move the router the diameter of the bit. Say you have a 1 in. rope bit ,you move 1 in. forward or back it does not matter reengage the router so you can crank it back to the original starting position. you will automatically be ready to do the next start on your twist. On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 4:09 PM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com wrote: first photo shows the headstock on the outboard side...the machine originally had a two gear set up...one at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock...the gear positions were not movable so there were only a few gears available, and thus, only a few pitches...the bottom gear is what drove the workpiece...the top gear has a spider gear on
Re: time for a question or two......
i like the idea you came up with...never would have thought to back out the tailstock!...that is slick...going to ponder that a bit...also forgot to mention what a help it is to have so many extra parts from the second legacy machine...all the work i am doing now i am doing on my bench since i have the exact same headstock left over from the donor machine...the cross piece with the bearings and threaded piece all intact as i separated it from the rails...it is making this job quite a bit easier...as far as alternate ideas, i was considering butchering the set up from the killinger and modifying that piece to do the job,which sounds like what you were suggesting with the indexing plate... but that would make the killinger useless and i am not ready to do that...i might find a dedicated use for the killinger machine...i can't imagine the set up being unbalanced would create a problem...with the RPM during spiraling work being so low, i would guess it would not trow the workpiece off center...but it certainly warrants concern, now that you mentioned it...i'll just have to cross my fingers and hope the machine gods save my ass on that!...LOL...again, thanks...joe On Friday, May 16, 2014 9:33:42 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote: 16lbs is a lot of extra weight, but your headstock can easily take it. I don't like the idea that it's unbalanced. Grinding away a $200 fixture really makes my mind go crazy. I would think you could fabricate something much smaller in your shop. In fact it's something I've given quite a bit of thought to in the past and started on an idea that I did not follow through with. It was a disk with 24 holes in it. The idea was to mount the disk to the stock. The headstock had a locating pin in the center and that fit one of the holes in the disk. To change the index you open up the tailstock and rotate the work to your next index. I don't think I ever showed the group that one. -Tim - Original Message - *From:* 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills javascript: *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com javascript: *Sent:* Friday, May 16, 2014 6:22 PM *Subject:* Re: time for a question or two.. here's an update tim...got the chuck today, a day later than i anticipated...the idea is to get a 6 faceplate(here monday) with a 1-8 thread...screw the faceplate onto the headstock...also setting up a 1 shaft collar so the faceplate can never unscrew when in use...this will be welded to the back of the faceplate, in a similiar set up of legacy's double shaft collar lock...a lot of these pieces are from mcmaster-carr...also purchased a #2 morse taper collet that has a 1/2 bore...i have already turned a piece of brass to use as an alignment pin,,,1/2 on one side and 19/32 on the other, which is the bore of the indexing chuck(it does not have a morse taper built into it, as i had thought)...get everything in place and aligned, tack weld the indexer to the faceplate, remove the assembly from the headstock by simply unscrewing it and finish the mounting by drilling and tapping holes threw the faceplate into the back of the chuck...then grind away the tack welds...this is so i can separate the faceplate and indexing chuck in the future if i have to...i can then screw the indexer onto the headstock like it is an accessory piece...unscrew it and the headstock is exactly like it was before, with no modifications...about the only issues i can see is the fact that the entire assembly will protrude from the end of the headstock more than i thought(about 5) and the unit will have a bit of weight to it( i'll guess and say at least 16 lbs.!...yikes!)...although i will probably reduce the weight of the indexer a good amount by milling/cutting/grinding as much as i can, since a lot of it is not necessary...don't have the part # of the indexer with me now but look in the section that has rotary tables...work resumes on monday and will certainly post photos and give an update...your comments and suggestions are welcome...thanks...joe On Friday, May 16, 2014 8:31:48 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote: Did this chuck work? I can't find it on Grizzly's site. What's the part number or link? My only concern is what's the swing of the whole piece and does it need a drawbar to stay in place? The legacy is not designed to pound a 2mt object into the headstock. You have to be nice to the socket :-). -Tim - Original Message - *From:* 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com *Sent:* Wednesday, May 14, 2014 1:49 PM *Subject:* Re: time for a question or two.. @ cole...but what if you want to back out that 1 router bit a bit because it better suits the finished look you are trying to achieve?...let's say to 7/8...the whole mathematics thing is not usable...i found a grizzly piece that i think will be a nice add-on piece to the legacy and
Re: gear question
thanks for the input guys...sounds logical to me...i'll just put those gears with the woodchuck as i have them already on the later legacy machine...joe On Friday, May 16, 2014 6:50:50 PM UTC-4, Curtis wrote: Hello everyone. Tim on my 1000 It came with the old small teeth on my gears, and a few years latter I bought a X-2 gear set and the .25 gear sets which have large teeth, so I have both kind in question, I don't find any difference between the two, as far as pitches or ...? but as you said the large socket of the duplex gear will collect wood chips easily.( and dose need to be picked out) Ive not had that problem with the older (small teeth) gears sets.But on the flip-side of the conversation, I have had the smaller teeth slip out of gear more easily. ( most of the time its my fault, of not having the gears set right. being in a hurry.) But this have not had that happened with the newer (large tooth) gears sets. (yet?) So as I see it, Its a crap's shoot here. Both work well, but each have its own problems that need to be addressed. (or watched out for.) ;-) Come-on Gears, Daddy needs to make a new pair of shoes! ( please excuse the play on words, You know Crap's shoot, Dice...? ) OWell ! Have a good night all. C.A.G. -- They sound like the main drive and standard duplex gear for the old woodchuck model (MA-12). Yes Legacy made a change to the gear count during the middle of the model 900's. I don't know why, I could only guess that reduced tooth count on the newer machines (larger teeth) decreased manufacturing time. 88 versus 180 teeth and the larger teeth are easier to maintain definition and increase laser speed. From a user stand point it's hard to say which one is better. Both styles end up in the same destination. On my duplex gear (large teeth) I have to clean out the teeth occasionally. Does this happen on the small teeth version? -Tim - Original Message - *From:* 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills javascript: *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com javascript: *Sent:* Friday, May 16, 2014 1:38 PM *Subject:* gear question can anyone explain...i have two gears that seem a bit out of place...one is 7 1/2 dia., fine tooth, rectangular hole(headstock gear) but with no holes for indexing...the other gear is also 7 1/2 dia. and has the smaller 2 gear with four bolts bolting them together but the smaller gear is a fine tooth...could this set be from a woodchuck machine, which i do have?...for the record the paperwork i have says the machine was made in 1995 and is a model MA-12...obviously it seems legacy changed at some point to that larger tooth, headstock gear meshing with the smaller, 2, large tooth gear...was/is there a specific reason for the change?...is the fine tooth better than the large tooth?...any opinions out there?thanks...joe -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comjavascript: . To post to this group, send email to legacy-orna...@googlegroups.comjavascript: . Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comjavascript: . To post to this group, send email to legacy-orna...@googlegroups.comjavascript: . Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: time for a question or two......
Now that’s a neat idea Tim you could have different plates with different numbers of holes for different indexes. Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause Sent: Saturday, 17 May 2014 11:34 AM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: time for a question or two.. 16lbs is a lot of extra weight, but your headstock can easily take it. I don't like the idea that it's unbalanced. Grinding away a $200 fixture really makes my mind go crazy. I would think you could fabricate something much smaller in your shop. In fact it's something I've given quite a bit of thought to in the past and started on an idea that I did not follow through with. It was a disk with 24 holes in it. The idea was to mount the disk to the stock. The headstock had a locating pin in the center and that fit one of the holes in the disk. To change the index you open up the tailstock and rotate the work to your next index. I don't think I ever showed the group that one. -Tim - Original Message - From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 6:22 PM Subject: Re: time for a question or two.. here's an update tim...got the chuck today, a day later than i anticipated...the idea is to get a 6 faceplate(here monday) with a 1-8 thread...screw the faceplate onto the headstock...also setting up a 1 shaft collar so the faceplate can never unscrew when in use...this will be welded to the back of the faceplate, in a similiar set up of legacy's double shaft collar lock...a lot of these pieces are from mcmaster-carr...also purchased a #2 morse taper collet that has a 1/2 bore...i have already turned a piece of brass to use as an alignment pin,,,1/2 on one side and 19/32 on the other, which is the bore of the indexing chuck(it does not have a morse taper built into it, as i had thought)...get everything in place and aligned, tack weld the indexer to the faceplate, remove the assembly from the headstock by simply unscrewing it and finish the mounting by drilling and tapping holes threw the faceplate into the back of the chuck...then grind away the tack welds...this is so i can separate the faceplate and indexing chuck in the future if i have to...i can then screw the indexer onto the headstock like it is an accessory piece...unscrew it and the headstock is exactly like it was before, with no modifications...about the only issues i can see is the fact that the entire assembly will protrude from the end of the headstock more than i thought(about 5) and the unit will have a bit of weight to it( i'll guess and say at least 16 lbs.!...yikes!)...although i will probably reduce the weight of the indexer a good amount by milling/cutting/grinding as much as i can, since a lot of it is not necessary...don't have the part # of the indexer with me now but look in the section that has rotary tables...work resumes on monday and will certainly post photos and give an update...your comments and suggestions are welcome...thanks...joe On Friday, May 16, 2014 8:31:48 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote: Did this chuck work? I can't find it on Grizzly's site. What's the part number or link? My only concern is what's the swing of the whole piece and does it need a drawbar to stay in place? The legacy is not designed to pound a 2mt object into the headstock. You have to be nice to the socket :-). -Tim - Original Message - From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills javascript: To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com javascript: Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2014 1:49 PM Subject: Re: time for a question or two.. @ cole...but what if you want to back out that 1 router bit a bit because it better suits the finished look you are trying to achieve?...let's say to 7/8...the whole mathematics thing is not usable...i found a grizzly piece that i think will be a nice add-on piece to the legacy and let you index to any cut you want...any repeat from 1 to 360...it will be here in my shop tomorrow and i will begin the not-to-difficult process to modify it to fit the legacy...see attachment...there are 15 degree indents built into the chuck(24 divisions)...the chuck is 3 in diameter...and it has a #2 morse taper...should be interesting if i can pull this off...thanks for the reply...joe On Wednesday, May 14, 2014 4:18:37 PM UTC-4, cole wrote: You move the router the diameter of the bit. Say you have a 1 in. rope bit ,you move 1 in. forward or back it does not matter reengage the router so you can crank it back to the original starting position. you will automatically be ready to do the next start on your twist. On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 4:09 PM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com wrote: first photo shows the
Re: legacy design kit
A long time ago I made this file that covers what is in the design kit. It is for the groups benefit. I'd assume not what Bill is looking for but interesting. -Tim - Original Message - From: mwfos...@earthlink.net To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:34 PM Subject: Re: legacy design kit Mike, Yes, I am interested in getting a set of the Magnate Legacy Ornamental Mill router bit templates. I'm not in a hurry - so give The Group a bit of time to reply back to you on this. I assume you have a set of the Originals? I have a couple sheets of the rectangular grid - unfortunately, none of the round sheets. I was thinking I could probably take one of my sheets to a printing shop and have then produce a couple tablets of the graph paper. (Or better yet a Community College where they teach printing - could be a project for a student. That way it would cost less.) Do you have an Epilogue laser cutter? Thanks for the offer. Mac - -Original Message- From: mike Sent: May 12, 2014 3:01 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: legacy design kit I attached the router bit profile dxf file, I can make the templates out of 1/8in plexiglass if anybody is interested let me know. On Sunday, May 11, 2014 11:35:53 PM UTC-5, aussiman wrote: Has anybody out there got the sheets with all the router bit shapes and numbers of the bits on it that comes with the legacy design kit .my kit I got second hand doesn’t have this sheet and I would like to get one again Not the plastic sheets the paper ones If so could someone scan it and either post it here or email it to me I started to design some stair balustrades and found out I didn’t have it I have to keep going to the router cupboard to check if I have the bits I’m tracing and the number on them it’s a pain Bill -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Legacy Ornamental Mills group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
